Post by new contributor Lindsay Clark of Nomadderwhere.
The first time I flew into NYC at night, the infinite stretch of lights had a deep impact on me – seeing the development and magnitude of the world from a pilots-eye view.
Alike, yet opposite, the moment occurred with the descent into Entebbe, Uganda.
There were minutes of time I saw not one single light in the darkness. What was below me was simply nature, no embellishments.
After immigration, I dawdled around the exit, hoping my first couchsurfing host would recognize me from my profile picture since unfortunately my previously given description of “brunette girl with all the bags” was not valid at the time [thanks to lost baggage].
Paul found me and took me away from the probing taxi drivers and towards the capital city of Kampala.
I knew I made a fantastic decision to couchsurf when my drive from the airport got me closer to the real Uganda than I ever could have gotten otherwise.
As we chatted through the hour-long drive, I realized the scene outside was unfolding something so eerie and intense.
The dust of the streets created a fog through which car headlights revealed hundreds of wandering silhouettes.
Things didn't feel so familiar anymore, as I realized the streets were littered and webbed with people, even out here in the dark of night, somewhere on a stretch of highway. Finally came the realization, the zing I sought for months:
“Wow, I'm traveling.”
Paul lived in a village right on the edge of Kampala, one called Masajja, which was connected by dirt roads, all veined and rutted by the wet season's downpours.
The first few bouncy minutes brought to mind Ace Ventura on his jungle rides through Africa, singing Chitty-Chitty-Bang-Bang with head bouncing from the passenger's seat across and out his driver's side window. I needed a helmet there in the back seat.
The Ssenoga family, Paul, and siblings live in a home attached to a few rooms, which they rent out for their income.
My travel goal of never using a squat toilet went out the window when I got a look at the compound latrine.
I was in no way discouraged though, as I knew my immersion was deeper than I could have anticipated (and that doesn't mean I fell in).
Though I hadn't slept in about three days, I stayed up to chat with my host about his family, his village, and life in Uganda.
Outside his window, the sun was far set, but the neighborhood was still throbbing.
On the corner, a man made a stand to sell chapatis (essentially flour tortillas) for cash flow.
Boda-boda drivers (guys with motorbikes) surfed the dirty waves while trying to find passengers to transport and charge.
In this community, everyone was a family man and every one an entrepreneur.
The noise was a constant, but at 2 a.m., when I awoke to roll over, I could have heard a rooster toot in the next village over.
Old MacDonald lost control of his livestock as they all crowded around my window to oddly awaken me in the morning.
Roosters were crowing every thirty seconds, goats were screaming like little children in agony, motorbikes streaking across my sightline and every human being on the block took to the streets to get it done, whatever “it” was, as they had been since 4 am.
I drew my first breath at 8:30 am and sought some relief at the long drop.
One cannot wander in there half asleep without losing a leg to the earth's dirty mouth and cracking your pelvis on the wet cement surrounding the hole.
I sure do have a delightfully poetic mind.
And then I walked miles to sit on someone's lap all the way into the city.
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Grant Lingel says
October 28, 2009 at 7:35 amGreat post, Lindsay! I know exactly how you feel each time I fly back into NYC. There is a great chance I'll be spending much of next year in Tanzania and I am very excited for “simply nature, no establishments.”
Dave says
October 28, 2009 at 8:42 amHey Grant, I've heard great things about Tanzania and it's probably the first place I'd want to go upon return to Africa. Would you be going over there as part of an organized program?
joanna_haugen says
October 28, 2009 at 12:07 pmI'm so excited Lindsay got to couchsurf in Uganda! I loved the country for the few days while I was there, and I imagine her experience was truly unforgettable! I can't wait to read the rest of her story!
LindsayClark says
October 28, 2009 at 6:14 pmReally appreciate it, guys! Thanks for reading. And absolutely, Tanzania is a country you need to visit and will definitely love. Kilimanjaro, Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Zanzibar…it's a trip. Hope you check out part deux tomorrow!
GlobalButterfly says
October 29, 2009 at 7:41 pmMakes me get a little teary eyed reading this… CSing is on the most amazing things to have come into my life. The friends and memories I have, well, they are priceless and it seems it is the same for you! :)
Can't wait to read your next article!!!
Dave says
October 29, 2009 at 11:02 pmAndi – I agree, the CS experiences have greatly enriched my recent travel experiences.
BlakesJourney says
October 30, 2009 at 7:08 amLindsay, your prose is wonderful. For some reason the pics aren't coming up on my computer, though. I look forward to reading your future posts. The intro to this article is great; foiling two experiences against one another really achieves the effect you're going for in this case.
I love the part about waking up with all the livestock. That would freak me out. I think I sometimes sound like a goat when I wake up.
Have you ever heard the wretched sounds a camel makes? Its like a prehistoric beast.
Blakesjourney / TBD
BlakesJourney says
October 30, 2009 at 7:12 amIt's funny how different the perspectives are on these boards than what one would encounter in normal life in the west. I mean, my wife and I are constantly met with gazes of horror when we talk about our plans to CS. Many people in the USA are so damn paranoid and think everyone is out to get them. They'd never dream of doing such a thing.
Frustrating.
Blakesjourney / TBD
LindsayClark says
November 4, 2009 at 12:42 pmI'm flattered and glad you liked story! The screaming goats were infiltrating my dreams, and I thought little girls and boys were outside freaking each other out. Weird way to wake up. And no, I've never heard a camel squeal/scream/yelp…something to look forward to.
Thanks for reading everybody!
LindsayClark says
November 4, 2009 at 6:42 pmI'm flattered and glad you liked story! The screaming goats were infiltrating my dreams, and I thought little girls and boys were outside freaking each other out. Weird way to wake up. And no, I've never heard a camel squeal/scream/yelp…something to look forward to.
Thanks for reading everybody!
Jessica says
October 17, 2011 at 1:03 amI’ve never couchsurfed before but I’ve always found the concept interesting. I’m in the process of planning an extended trip and hoping to couchsurf during the trip. This has just made me want to experience it even more. From what you have shared so far and what I have read elsewhere it certainly seems to be an unforgettable experience. So thank you for sharing and amping me up even more to try it! Can’t wait for the rest of the story =)