Visiting The Perhentian Islands, Malaysia’s Best-Kept Secret

Thinking of hitting the beach as part of your journey around South East Asia? Of course, you are! You're probably thinking about heading to Thailand's beautiful beaches—Koh Phi Phi, made famous by the movie “The Beach,” and Koh Phangan, infamous for its full moon parties. While Thailand's beaches are lovely, you'd be mistaken for thinking this was the region's best spot for sun, snorkeling, and sea.

Hands down, the nicest beaches I've been to in Southeast Asia are on the Perhentian Islands in Malaysia. If you haven't been, you're missing out on something exceptional. Make an effort to travel further off the backpacker circuit, and you will be greatly rewarded.

About the Perhentian Islands

How To Get There

The Perhentians are a chain of two large islands (Besar and Kecil) about an hour off the East Coast of Malaysia. They're reasonably far north, close to the border with Thailand. The nearest major town on the mainland is Kota Bharu.

Boats to the islands leave from the pier in the small village of Kuala Besut, about 45 minutes south of Kota Bharu. Forget about ferries; these are just small speed boats.

Each big resort has a boat to travel to and from the islands. Tuna Bay Resort has the biggest and safest boat. Lifejackets are compulsory—they even have lifejackets for children. The boat trip will cost you 70 RM roundtrip.

A taxi from Kota Bharu to the pier at Kuala Besut costs around 40 RM, or you can book a transfer through your hotel for around 30 RM per person.
Take a cheap Air Asia flight into Kota Bharu from Kuala Lumpur—this fare is under $15 USD on promotion. Alternatively, catch the jungle line train to Wakaf Bharu and take a taxi to Kota Bharu or go straight to the pier at Kuala Besut.

From Penang, there is a short propeller flight on Firefly into Kota Bharu, which is six hours by bus. Buses leave Penang at 9 pm and 9 am, which means either waiting around in Kota Bharu in the wee hours of the morning or missing the last ferry onto the island and overnighting in Kota Bharu.

From Thailand, you can catch the train (or bus) from Hat Yai to the border at Sungai Kolok, a journey of around four hours. Once you cross the border into Malaysia, it's about 30 minutes to Kota Bharu. A taxi should cost less than 20 RM, and the bus will cost 5 RM.

Heading to Malaysia? Book all your hostels here!

When To Go

The best months for visiting the Perhentians are June, July, and August.

You can only visit the Perhentians between March and October. Outside of this, Monsoon season takes hold—seas are choppy, and resorts and restaurants close their shops.

Where To Stay and Eat

Wherever you stay, plan your accommodation in advance. It's not easy to walk from beach to beach, searching for the best bungalow.

The season for the Perhentians is short, so by April, many places are booked solidly for stays in June, July, and August. If your heart is set in a particular place, you'll need to lock it in early. That said, most places can accommodate you if you're on an extended trip and want to arrive a few days earlier than scheduled.

The accommodation across the Perhentians is expensive, and the standards are low. Frankly, you only get a little for your money. You'll pay roughly twice what you would for an equivalent bungalow on one of Thailand's islands.

The expense is worth it because it does keep the islands relatively quiet. Make sure you factor this spike into your long-term budget. There's not much to do on the islands, so your other costs will be low.

Backpackers will want to head for Perhentian Kecil.

Accommodation is cheaper here and attracts a younger crowd. The local village is on Kecil, which means access to shops and a row of inexpensive food stalls.

There are a few bars in Long Beach, though alcohol is expensive. All the budget accommodation is in Long Beach. You'll find most of them are simple, wooden chalets without AC. Some have 24-hour electricity, and others don't.

Matahari Chalets and Panorama Chalets get good reviews from backpackers looking for a more lively environment. Head back off the beach to Bintang Chalets for quieter but still cheap accommodation.

Flashpackers, mid-range travelers, or families should seek accommodation on Perhentian Besar.

Abdul's Chalet, a simple A-frame beachfront chalet with AC, and Coco-Huts, AC chalets up on the rocks, both come widely recommended. The best choice by far is Tuna Bay Resort, which has rows of adjoined bungalows on the beach and in the garden.

Regarding eating, the best options are Coco-Huts or Coral View Resort. The food at Abdul's is cheap but notoriously bad, and Tuna Bay is pretty pricey, although their Western options are good.

Things To Do

Snorkel and dive. 

One of the best things about the Perhentians is the ability to snorkel right off the beach. Reefs wrap around the island, close to the shore, and teem with fish. You may even get lucky and see turtles.

Resorts will rent you a snorkel and mask for 5 RM a day. Fins aren't allowed because of the coral. You can also do a half-day snorkeling trip to Rawa Island or a full day to Redang. All the larger resorts offer dive courses, including night dives.

Explore the island.

Visit different beaches and resorts using the taxi boats parked on every beach. Fares are per person, not per boat, so it's a good option even if you're on your own. Concrete stairs and tracks connect some beaches. The jungle is thick, so stick to the paths and wear mosquito repellent.

Rest, relax, and recharge your batteries.

There is little else to tempt you on these islands, so take the opportunity to chill out with a book or iPod and work on your tan.

Know Before You Go

When you book your boat ticket in Kuala Besut, you'll pay a 5 RM National Park fee before reaching the islands. This fee contributes to preserving the area's natural beauty and biodiversity, ensuring that future visitors can continue to enjoy the pristine environment.

As you prepare for your island adventure, it's also important to consider other aspects of your trip, particularly your health and safety. Securing international health insurance before your journey is a wise decision, as it provides coverage in case of unexpected medical issues while you're exploring the remote islands.

The peace of mind that comes with knowing you're protected allows you to fully immerse yourself in the experience without worrying about potential health-related costs. Whether snorkeling in crystal-clear waters or trekking through lush jungles, being prepared with proper insurance ensures that your adventure remains safe and enjoyable.

Wi-Fi can be slow and patchy on the islands. This is a blessing. Plan for a few technology-free days and make the most of your surroundings.

Bring supplies with you from the mainland. Drinks, snacks, and toiletries are for sale in small shops on the beach and in the local village on Kecil, but prices are high, and selection is limited.

Most of the locals on the islands are Muslim. You'll only find alcohol for sale at selected resorts. Bring your own from the mainland or, even better, bring it across the border from Thailand.

Beware of sea lice bites! These microscopic jellyfish larvae can be present in the water if you're on the islands in the shoulder season. They feel like little stings or electric shocks while you're in the water and can leave a nasty rash. Take some antihistamines (oral and topical), and be sure to wash and dry your swimsuit if you get bitten.

Listen out for the Islamic call to prayer. It's broadcast from the mosque in the village of Kecil but can be heard on both islands. It adds a certain exoticness to your Perhentian Islands experience!

For more tips on traveling to the Perhentians, especially if you're traveling with children, check out my stories on Flashpacker Family.