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Round the World Travel Guide

Photo Essay: The Eco-Friendly Bulungula Lodge

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Bulungula Lodge is situated amidst the rugged landscape of South Africa's Wild Coast.

It was built adjacent a Xhosa village, with the villagers owning a 40% stake in the Lodge.  Guest accommodations are in the form of traditional African rondavels.  And a variety of eco-friendly facilities are employed to ensure minimal impact on the surrounding land and culture.

A short list of the these features highlight the owners' considerations:

  • Electricity used sparingly, sourced from solar panels
  • Light is primarily from candles in the evening
  • Composting toilets
  • Paraffin wax “rocket” showers
  • Rainwater collection

Bulungula Lodge isn't easy to get to, but if you have the time, it's worth a few nights in your South African itinerary to experience this one of a kind backpacker lodge.

Driving through villages along South Africa's Wild Coast
As you get closer to Bulungula Lodge, paved roads turn to rock and mud, and eventually plain grass.

 

Bulungula Lodge is built with a low profile, and the guest accommodations are in the form of rondavels, the traditional Xhosa style 1-room homes.
Bulungula Lodge is built with a low profile, and the guest accommodations are in the form of rondavels, the traditional Xhosa style 1-room homes.
The rondavels are made of mud blocks and thatched roofs. The interiors are brightly painted, and without electricity, candles are the only source of light at night.
The rondavels are made of mud blocks and thatched roofs. The interiors are brightly painted, and without electricity, candles are the only source of light at night.
Composting toilets require you pee in the front section of the toilet bow, while depositing the rest down the back side. After your done with #2, drop a few cups of the composting soil on top of your deposit.
Composting toilets require you pee in the front section of the toilet bow, while depositing the rest down the back side. After your done with #2, drop a few cups of the composting soil on top of your deposit.
In order to provide hot water showers, despite the lack of electricity, Bulungula Lodge provides paraffin wax "rocket" showers. Pour some of the melted wax in the teapot into the base of the black shower pipe, stick a few sheets of toilet paper into the wax, and then light it like a candle wick. Once the wax catches on fire, turn on the water, and the steam will heat it up.
In order to provide hot water showers, despite the lack of electricity, Bulungula Lodge provides paraffin wax "rocket" showers. Pour some of the melted wax in the teapot into the base of the black shower pipe, stick a few sheets of toilet paper into the wax, and then light it like a candle wick. Once the wax catches on fire, turn on the water, and the steam will heat it up.
A fire pit outside the lodge is the perfect place for a nighttime drum circle.
A fire pit outside the lodge is the perfect place for a nighttime drum circle.
Inside Bulungula Lodge are comfortable common areas for hanging out and eating the communal meals, a library, bar, and kitchen.
Inside Bulungula Lodge are comfortable common areas for hanging out and eating the communal meals, a library, bar, and kitchen.

 

Breakfast at Bulungula includes Xhosa-style bread made using solar power, eggs, and hearty slices of bacon.
Breakfast at Bulungula includes Xhosa-style bread made using solar power, eggs, and hearty slices of bacon.
Sunset view from Bulungula, taken after returning from an afternoon tour of the local Xhoxa village a short walk away.
Sunset view from Bulungula, taken after returning from an afternoon tour of the local Xhoxa village a short walk away.
Don't be surprised if you find a bunch of cows lounging around outside your rondavel. Just be sure to watch your step the next morning, as the cows may leave a few gifts behind.
Don't be surprised if you find a bunch of cows lounging around outside your rondavel. Just be sure to watch your step the next morning, as the cows may leave a few gifts behind.
If you don't have your own 4x4 transportation, it's best to arrange a pick-up and drop-off schedule with the Lodge. Expect a bumpy ride in the back of their 4x4.
If you don't have your own 4x4 transportation, it's best to arrange a pick-up and drop-off schedule with the Lodge. Expect a bumpy ride in the back of their 4x4.

Read more about my experiences traveling to Bulungula, experiencing the lodge, and going on the Xhosa village tour.

To learn more about the Lodge itself, check out their website.

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Comments

  1. Shawn says

    That actually looks quite relaxing :) I’m the biggest environmentalist that I know, and I always get skeptical about these types of places. However, this one doesn’t sound too bad. It seems like the sort of place that would be horrible if you’re not in the mood for it, but otherwise would be fun. Thanks, Dave!

    • Dave says

      Hey Shawn, it was a relaxing place, and I kind of wish I’d been patient enough to spend more than 2 nights there. On the drive in, I was lucky to meet a young French couple who were great company. Later on my trip, I stayed with them in Bordeaux.

  3. Annie says

    What a cool place!! Would definitely like to stay here or somewhere like this one day. Quite a change from the typical backpackers hostels you find in Europe huh?

    • Dave says

      Hi Annie! On the whole, I found the hostels in South Africa to have more character and higher quality than just about anywhere else I’ve been. And certainly cheaper than Europe!

  4. Theresa says

    We really wanted to stay there when we were traveling through South Africa, but we were in the area right around Easter and they were fully booked for two weeks. Thanks for showing us what we missed! Next time…

    • Dave says

      Theresa, sorry to hear you missed your first chance at Bulungula. It’s a special spot. I had a wonderful time on the village tour and wish I wasn’t in so much of a rush to hit the next destination. I reached Coffee Bay and ended up only staying a day there because I wasn’t really digging it.

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