I awoke at 4:45am to the now familiar series of beeps from my Casio Pathfinder watch. I set my alarms the night before, figuring I could always go back to sleep if I didn't feel like making my way down to the Ganges River for a sunrise boat ride along the ghats. I went back to sleep.
Two hours later, I stepped out of Hotel Buddha to the almost serene streets of Varanasi. I hailed an autorickshaw to take me the 10km to Sarnath, the location where Buddha gave his first sermons in a deer park. It is one of four primary pilgrimage sites on the Buddhist circuit. I had skipped Lumbini (his birthplace in southern Nepal) because it was a few days out of my way, and didn't intend to visit Kushinagar, India (where he died) for the same reason.
The rickshaw let me off at the entrance of Mulgandha Kuti Vihar, a temple built in 1931 to house sacred relics from Sakyamuni Buddha. Next to the temple was a bodhi tree, around which were giant stone plaques bearing the engravings of Buddha's first sermon in a variety of languages. I was given a kata (scarf) to tie around the bodhi tree in exchange for a little baksheesh (a tip or bribe depending on your perspective and the situation).
Next, I headed to the prominent 34-meter high Dhamekh Stupa which marks the spot where Buddha's first sermons were given. The stone carvings around the stupa are thought to date back to the 5th century AD. It was only 8:30am, yet the sun was fierce and I could feel my energy waning. I continued to walk through the excavated ruins in the complex, occasionally shooing away the touts trying to sell me cheap Buddha statues (both kids and adults). There persistence and presence can test even the most patient people.
As I gulped some water near the entrance of the site, I saw a young girl begging through the metal fence. Clearly I was her target as there was barely a tourist around so early, let alone a stick-out-like-a-sore-thumb white person. I began to walk toward the rickshaw stand and she followed me on my left. She barely rose to my waist, yet she was carrying a small baby, muttering the same two words over and over again in a quiet, sad tone. ” Please sir, please sir.”? At least that's what I think she was saying. I apologized to her, I bowed in respect to her, I said ” no”? many times to her. I walked on for a block or two under the increasingly hot sun. ” Please sir, please sir.”? At one point I heard her voice fade, and I had hoped she had given up, however when I turned around I saw that she had only stopped to pick up the cloth which had been over her head. ” Please sir, please sir.”? The refrain began again once she had caught up.
Knowing you're not suppose to give money to begging children, I gave money to her (3 rupees…7 cents) when I passed upon a man who could render small change. I didn't give her the money out of compassion (either a true or false sense). I gave her the money so she would leave me alone. So I wouldn't hear her voice continue to repeat those words over and over as though I was being haunted.
Last Updated on
Nomadic Matt says
June 13, 2008 at 9:15 pmThere was a recent article on Matador Travel about giving money….the majority of the people said no. I tend to do it if they really annoy me. Sometimes I do it though b/c they pull at your heart strings and 7 cents isn’t going to break the budget.
but 9/10 times, I say no and walk away. They can get really annoying though.
BTW- I voted for Tai Chi!!!
Nomadic Matt says
June 13, 2008 at 4:15 pmThere was a recent article on Matador Travel about giving money….the majority of the people said no. I tend to do it if they really annoy me. Sometimes I do it though b/c they pull at your heart strings and 7 cents isn’t going to break the budget.
but 9/10 times, I say no and walk away. They can get really annoying though.
BTW- I voted for Tai Chi!!!
Leigh says
June 14, 2008 at 5:07 amStunning pictures! I understand what you mean about the children… we have the same problems when we travel to Nicaragua each year. They would make excellent telemarketers! haha. Giving them all money would ensure YOU wouldn’t eat tonight!
Love the blog – I’ll be back!
:)
Leigh Clements
The Mystery Maiden
Shot In The Dark Mysteries.com
Dave says
June 14, 2008 at 2:53 pmThanks for stopping by Leigh!
Leigh says
June 14, 2008 at 12:07 amStunning pictures! I understand what you mean about the children… we have the same problems when we travel to Nicaragua each year. They would make excellent telemarketers! haha. Giving them all money would ensure YOU wouldn’t eat tonight!
Love the blog – I’ll be back!
:)
Leigh Clements
The Mystery Maiden
Shot In The Dark Mysteries.com
Dave says
June 14, 2008 at 9:53 amThanks for stopping by Leigh!
Cuckoo says
June 16, 2008 at 1:32 pmWhere has my comment gone ?? :(
I wrote a long one. :(
Dave says
June 17, 2008 at 8:53 amI don’t know…I can look for it. If you included a link or certain words, it may have been held for moderation.
Kango Suz says
June 16, 2008 at 2:51 pmHey Dave! I’m always so torn about giving / not giving money when I travel. When I’m at home in the US I don’t give to beggars because I give to organizations as part of my regular budget that help people who are under privelaged – and I know that many beggars are addicted to drugs and alcohol in the US. Abroad, however, it’s not as easy to ‘justify’ saying no because that truly might be how that person makes their money. Thanks for sharing your struggles with this dilema as well.
Until all have enough and there are no need for beggars!
Cuckoo says
June 16, 2008 at 6:32 pmWhere has my comment gone ?? :(
I wrote a long one. :(
Dave says
June 17, 2008 at 1:53 pmI don’t know…I can look for it. If you included a link or certain words, it may have been held for moderation.
Kango Suz says
June 16, 2008 at 7:51 pmHey Dave! I’m always so torn about giving / not giving money when I travel. When I’m at home in the US I don’t give to beggars because I give to organizations as part of my regular budget that help people who are under privelaged – and I know that many beggars are addicted to drugs and alcohol in the US. Abroad, however, it’s not as easy to ‘justify’ saying no because that truly might be how that person makes their money. Thanks for sharing your struggles with this dilema as well.
Until all have enough and there are no need for beggars!
Michael Murphey says
June 19, 2008 at 11:27 pmThat place looks absolutely breath taking. I’m going to have to add it to my list of places I have to visit before I die. :grin:
Dave says
June 20, 2008 at 1:19 amDefinitely worth a visit if you’re spending a few days in nearby Varanasi. The archaeological site looked as good (well done) as any I’ve seen in Europe.
Michael Murphey says
June 20, 2008 at 4:27 amThat place looks absolutely breath taking. I’m going to have to add it to my list of places I have to visit before I die. :grin:
Dave says
June 20, 2008 at 6:19 amDefinitely worth a visit if you’re spending a few days in nearby Varanasi. The archaeological site looked as good (well done) as any I’ve seen in Europe.
Pummy369 says
November 27, 2008 at 10:59 amDave, we are considering a visit to Varanasi and heading to Sarnath each day for HHDL teachings. Could you tell me how long the auto-rickshw ride from your hotel was to Sarnath? Also, would you recommend this hotel Buddha? I don’t need fancy but do need no so many bugs and also clean with a shower and friendly oweners. How long does it take to get from Hotel Buddha to the Ghats also? Would this hotel be good for us do you think?
Your help is appreciated and thank you for sharing your experiences.
Pummy 369
Dave says
December 1, 2008 at 7:32 amHi. It’s been awhile I have to admit. I don’t think the autorickshaw ride was more than 30 minutes, especially with little traffic in the early morning. I would recommend Hotel Buddha, though I only stayed there 2 nights (they were comfortable!). The ride to the Ghats can’t be long….maybe 15 minutes depending on traffic. Good luck!
Dave says
December 1, 2008 at 7:32 amHi. It’s been awhile I have to admit. I don’t think the autorickshaw ride was more than 30 minutes, especially with little traffic in the early morning. I would recommend Hotel Buddha, though I only stayed there 2 nights (they were comfortable!). The ride to the Ghats can’t be long….maybe 15 minutes depending on traffic. Good luck!
Pummy369 says
November 27, 2008 at 5:59 amDave, we are considering a visit to Varanasi and heading to Sarnath each day for HHDL teachings. Could you tell me how long the auto-rickshw ride from your hotel was to Sarnath? Also, would you recommend this hotel Buddha? I don’t need fancy but do need no so many bugs and also clean with a shower and friendly oweners. How long does it take to get from Hotel Buddha to the Ghats also? Would this hotel be good for us do you think?
Your help is appreciated and thank you for sharing your experiences.
Pummy 369
Dave says
December 1, 2008 at 2:32 amHi. It’s been awhile I have to admit. I don’t think the autorickshaw ride was more than 30 minutes, especially with little traffic in the early morning. I would recommend Hotel Buddha, though I only stayed there 2 nights (they were comfortable!). The ride to the Ghats can’t be long….maybe 15 minutes depending on traffic. Good luck!