The entrance to Jerash is packed with Jordanian vendors, schoolchildren, and families. As a tall, blonde woman, I received lots of stares. A girl, smiling as her friends giggled, approached me and asked if she could take a photo. I was confused before saying no thanks, thinking they might be making fun of me.
As we ventured into the Greco-Roman ruins, the groups of schoolgirls continued to approach us and ask for photos.
They would yell, "Selfie!" and run over in groups with their iPhones to take a picture together, followed by exclamations like, "I love you!" and "You're beautiful!" and "Welcome to Jordan!"
When I heard that, my anxiety settled. They just wanted to connect. I told them the same things back.
Along with selfies, I noticed that Jordanians seem to take sharing meals very seriously. Families spend all day together in preparation for the afternoon feast, taking time to visit and relax, welcoming anyone who can join.
One girl who approached me in Jerash invited us to her family's home for dinner, and a group of construction workers taking a break from work offered me a taste of their homemade soup.
However, you don't need to visit someone's house or befriend a local to experience the graciousness of the people and enjoy authentic meals. Here are some recommendations to get you started.
Breakfast at Hashem's Downtown
The only items on the menu at Hashem's are falafel and a variety of sides. And you'll be amazed by the price of the fresh, filling meal. It's in downtown Amman, right in the heart of the shopping district.
The place is always packed with locals, and the kitchen is open, so you can watch them fold the steamy, soft pitas and toss the chickpeas into the fryer.
Picnics in Wadi Rum
If you have time to venture out to the desert, stay overnight at Khaled's Camp. After climbing the various rock formations and sweeping red dunes, your guide will cook a picnic for you in the desert, complete with fresh vegetables, bread, and dessert.
At the end of the day, you're treated to a complete Bedouin feast. They pull layers of food out from being cooked underground - the bottom layer is all the meats, followed by the rice and vegetables.
You feast on that in the tent with the Bedouins, along with hot mint tea and shisha, if you so choose. Breakfast is served outside.
Traditional Meals Outside of Petra
The restaurants on the side of the road leading to Petra are small, but that makes them even more inviting. I tried mansaf for the first time there, the national dish of Jordan. We sat by the window, watching people and chatting with the waiter.
With our American sense of time, we hoped to eat quickly and get a full day of hiking in. But the waiters told us to take it easy. Relax, have some tea. We politely declined, and they said to come back later. The tea would be waiting for us.
It's hard to miss local dining experiences in Jordan. Everyone wants to connect, from schoolgirls to taxi drivers and men selling spices on the street. Sharing a meal is the perfect way to do just that.
