Never…Ending…Peace…And…Love
Perspectives from a first-time trekker on the Annapurna Sanctuary trek in the Himalaya of Nepal.
Planning to do the Annapurna Trek? Book your Pokhara hostel here
The Scenery
Hopefully the photos I've posted speak volumes about the scenery. Words hardly do it justice so I'm not going to try too hard.
Green forest valleys gave way to snow-covered mountains of the highest caliber.
Waking each morning to new and stunning views of the mountains with perfect blue skies in the background hardly felt real. It took me days to realize I was in the midst of such an experience.
Beautiful rhododendron flowers paint the sides of mountains in red and pink. Forests seem magical…rivers powerful…stone steps never ending.
The smallest of flowers growing between the stone steps were as beautiful as the larger-than-life mountain views.
Watching the sun rise over the Annapurna range from Poon Hill was akin to walking into St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican City for the first time – a spiritual, awe-inspiring experience for even the non-spiritual among us.
The People
The locals were warm and friendly, which continues to be a reason I enjoy spending time in Nepal.
Gela was an all-star trekking partner who indulged my desire to take silly photos all the time. The other trekkers met along the way were also cool.
Our guide, Mohan, worked out well. At any given time he was a masseuse, singer, dancer, magician, mathematician, comedian, and doctor.
Our porter, Nima, worked hard, kept a watchful eye on me when I needed it, and made the experience extra fun (especially toward the end when he'd enter the dining room after a few drinks).
Lessons Learned
- Western companies and tour groups are not the way to go. Who wants to walk in such majestic places with a giant crowd of people no doubt talking to one and other all the time. Support Nepali travel agencies, guides and porters. It's cheaper and gives you a closer cultural connection.
- It's as easy to hire a guide and/or porter for a trek in Nepal as it is to go skydiving in New Zealand. And there's no paperwork to sign!
- Be clear about the goals of your trek when hiring a guide. If you want to be able to take your time, then stress that reaching base camp is not critical.
- On the popular routes (Sanctuary, Circuit, Everest) guides and porters are not necessary. Take a book or a map, however the maps and trails are so obvious it'd be hard to get lost. If traveling during the high seasons, there are plenty of other trekkers to meet in advance or along the way, and guides are always around for you to ask questions (how far is it to X, what do you think the weather will be like today, etc.).
- Prepare for all weather conditions. Ask “what happens if I get caught in the rain my first day?” At the same time, don't feel the need to bring an entire waterproof outfit, as you can usually do your walking in the mornings before it rains, and dry your wet clothes (or laundry) by the guest house stoves or heaters each night.
- Layering is VERY important. I wore 1-4 layers at any given point in the day/night. It would be blisteringly hot under the sun at times, and freezing cold in the evenings.
- Invest in an authentic sleeping bag, and know how it performs in varying degrees of cold. I'd rather be too warm then too cold. Gela was comfortable in her friend's real North Face -7 degree Celsius sleeping bag the whole time, even above 4,000 meters at ABC. My fake -5 degree bag sucked balls and I had to depend on guest house blankets and extra clothes (not a good feeling)
- Take your time. Walk slow, watch your steps – up and down. Use a walking stick for added support and balance.
- Greet the locals with “namaste.”
- Drink water and eat snacks (chocolate, granola, etc) at your rest stops. Drink and eat more than you think you need.
- Drink herbal teas and warm water.
- If you feel worried about the remoteness, the steepness of trails, the weather, the altitude, RELAX and try to stay in the moment, focusing on the scenery and people around you.
- Breathe evenly and deeply.
- Find food you like and eat a lot of it (stay consistent, trekking isn't the time to experiment).
- Establish an eating routine – eat the same meals each day (porridge w/apple for breakfast, pizza/noodles for lunch, dal bhat for dinner).
- Adding sugar to tea, water and food is a good way to consume extra calories and gain quick energy.
Trekker Nationalities (met along the way)
- German
- Austrian
- Dutch
- English
- Swiss
- Estonian
- French
- Italian
- Irish
- Czech
- American
- Polish
- Malaysian
- South Korean
- Israeli
- Canadian
- Thai
- Japanese
Truly Final Thoughts
The difficulty of trekking in Nepal will depend on the person, route, time allowed, season, etc. Having practically no outdoor experience myself, I found the first few days challenging – mentally and physically.
Yes, I tend to worry a bit in life, yet there's no getting around the fact that you quickly realize how much work it takes to travel 1…2…3 days into the mountains, let alone the logistics and effort of trying to get back out if you injure yourself, or mentally lose it.
Despite having hired a guide, I quickly found you really need to look out for yourself first and foremost.
Still, on those days when I was waiting for Gela, I started to miss the routine of getting up early and hitting the trails.
We never stretched our legs before setting off – we just started walking. After a few days, your body seems to adapt.
There were as many trekkers in their 40's and 50's as there were in their 20's and 30's.
Despite all my concerns around Altitude Sickness, I never reached the heights where it became a major concern. Still, at certain heights I was acutely aware of the extra effort and breathing it took to do seemingly easy things like going up and down a flight of stairs.
Usually I was fine after a night's sleep though. Guess I'll save my Diamox for the next mountain adventure.
Last Updated on
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Mike says
April 28, 2008 at 3:18 amI hope I can go on the Annapurna Circuit one day, hopefully soon. Where do you leave all of your bags while you are hiking? I would be surprised to hear if you carried all of your items with you, unless your guide/porter carried some of it.
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Dave says
April 30, 2008 at 11:47 pmA lot of people I spoke with enjoyed the Circuit trek as the terrain changes so quickly. Plus you get to take on the highest mountain pass in the world. I heard that it was common to see helicopters taking people down off the mountain due to AMS so it’s best to free yourself of time constraints if at all possible, and take Diamox. The Pass is really the hardest part, and I got the impression the trek while longer than the Sanctuary one, is not quite so difficult (less up/down the sides of mountains). Also, they’re building more roads along the route, so in 1-2 years, it’s going to be less appealing, while the Sanctuary trek was out of sight of any roads within a few hours walk.
Usually you store the stuff you don’t bring with the guest house you stayed at before departing on the trek. It’s very common and easy given it’s the #1 reason people seem to come to Nepal.
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Nomadic Matt says
April 28, 2008 at 9:07 amAmazing trip. It was really nice to live vicariously through you. I’ve always wanted to do a Nepal trek and your story and photos just make me want it more…
where to next?
namaste
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Dave says
May 1, 2008 at 4:48 amHey Matt! Glad I can help. Nepal is amazing. I really can’t say that enough. I’m looking forward to traveling to northern India next, which should have similar terrain, and hopefully some nice mountain views of the Himalaya (just like here). Then off to SE Asia for fun on the beaches and in the jungles.
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Nomadic Matt says
April 28, 2008 at 4:07 amAmazing trip. It was really nice to live vicariously through you. I’ve always wanted to do a Nepal trek and your story and photos just make me want it more…
where to next?
namaste
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Dave says
April 30, 2008 at 11:48 pmHey Matt! Glad I can help. Nepal is amazing. I really can’t say that enough. I’m looking forward to traveling to northern India next, which should have similar terrain, and hopefully some nice mountain views of the Himalaya (just like here). Then off to SE Asia for fun on the beaches and in the jungles.
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Anand says
April 28, 2008 at 10:28 amhiya,
do you think the Annapurna santurary was the right trek for you? no regrets about the choice of this as opposed to Everest Base Camp??
also have you any detailed guidance in terms of finding a local guide? how did you assess their knowledge etc??
as ever your osts are inspiring!! it is one year to go before my wife and I embark on our year away and we read your posts and just cant wait!!
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Dave says
May 1, 2008 at 4:54 amAnand –
Yes, I think the Sanctuary trek was right for me as I couldn’t complete it, and the others get to much higher altitudes. I talked to a few people who did the EBC trek and saw their photos. I’m glad I didn’t take that on for my first trek – I wasn’t ready for it mentally. I have a much better sense of how things work now, and could see myself doing it in the future, probably with a guide/porter still. It’s all about an individual’s tolerance for risk and desire to save money or accomplish something so difficult on his/her own.
My best advice for hiring a guide is to do it through one of the travel agencies versus the independent ones that will approach you on the street. Even with them though, you can verify they are licensed and insured, and ask for references. Gela and I spoke to 3 different travel agencies, and got the sense that all offered a similar level of service. In the end, it’s somewhat arbitrary. If you can get references about a specific guide from other travelers, that’d be ideal. For example, I have the email address for my guide and could tell you all about him.
Glad I’m helping to keep you motivated! I read other people’s blogs in the same way before my trip. :)
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Anand says
May 3, 2008 at 12:16 pmThanks for the details,
it would be good to have the contact details of the agent you used in Kathmandu. i am pretty interested in not booking before we depart, as we would like to maintain the flexibility and also cut costs!
Did you do the flight over Everest??
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Anand says
April 28, 2008 at 5:28 amhiya,
do you think the Annapurna santurary was the right trek for you? no regrets about the choice of this as opposed to Everest Base Camp??
also have you any detailed guidance in terms of finding a local guide? how did you assess their knowledge etc??
as ever your osts are inspiring!! it is one year to go before my wife and I embark on our year away and we read your posts and just cant wait!!
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Dave says
April 30, 2008 at 11:54 pmAnand –
Yes, I think the Sanctuary trek was right for me as I couldn’t complete it, and the others get to much higher altitudes. I talked to a few people who did the EBC trek and saw their photos. I’m glad I didn’t take that on for my first trek – I wasn’t ready for it mentally. I have a much better sense of how things work now, and could see myself doing it in the future, probably with a guide/porter still. It’s all about an individual’s tolerance for risk and desire to save money or accomplish something so difficult on his/her own.
My best advice for hiring a guide is to do it through one of the travel agencies versus the independent ones that will approach you on the street. Even with them though, you can verify they are licensed and insured, and ask for references. Gela and I spoke to 3 different travel agencies, and got the sense that all offered a similar level of service. In the end, it’s somewhat arbitrary. If you can get references about a specific guide from other travelers, that’d be ideal. For example, I have the email address for my guide and could tell you all about him.
Glad I’m helping to keep you motivated! I read other people’s blogs in the same way before my trip. :)
![]()
Anand says
May 3, 2008 at 7:16 amThanks for the details,
it would be good to have the contact details of the agent you used in Kathmandu. i am pretty interested in not booking before we depart, as we would like to maintain the flexibility and also cut costs!
Did you do the flight over Everest??
![]()
Mike says
April 28, 2008 at 8:18 amI hope I can go on the Annapurna Circuit one day, hopefully soon. Where do you leave all of your bags while you are hiking? I would be surprised to hear if you carried all of your items with you, unless your guide/porter carried some of it.
![]()
Dave says
May 1, 2008 at 4:47 amA lot of people I spoke with enjoyed the Circuit trek as the terrain changes so quickly. Plus you get to take on the highest mountain pass in the world. I heard that it was common to see helicopters taking people down off the mountain due to AMS so it’s best to free yourself of time constraints if at all possible, and take Diamox. The Pass is really the hardest part, and I got the impression the trek while longer than the Sanctuary one, is not quite so difficult (less up/down the sides of mountains). Also, they’re building more roads along the route, so in 1-2 years, it’s going to be less appealing, while the Sanctuary trek was out of sight of any roads within a few hours walk.
Usually you store the stuff you don’t bring with the guest house you stayed at before departing on the trek. It’s very common and easy given it’s the #1 reason people seem to come to Nepal.
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Stu says
April 28, 2008 at 12:20 pmCongrats on making it through dave. I’d love to see bigger sized photos of your trek at some point :)
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Dave says
May 1, 2008 at 4:55 amYou can see the larger photos on Flickr – they’re all uploaded – however I won’t have the time to share the original resolution ones.
Set 1 – http://www.flickr.com/photos/gobackpacking/sets/72157604596149024/
Set 2 – http://www.flickr.com/photos/gobackpacking/sets/72157604667039008/
Set 3 – http://www.flickr.com/photos/gobackpacking/sets/72157604507988168/
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Stu says
April 28, 2008 at 7:20 amCongrats on making it through dave. I’d love to see bigger sized photos of your trek at some point :)
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Dave says
April 30, 2008 at 11:55 pmYou can see the larger photos on Flickr – they’re all uploaded – however I won’t have the time to share the original resolution ones.
Set 1 – http://www.flickr.com/photos/gobackpacking/sets/72157604596149024/
Set 2 – http://www.flickr.com/photos/gobackpacking/sets/72157604667039008/
Set 3 – http://www.flickr.com/photos/gobackpacking/sets/72157604507988168/
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Celine says
April 28, 2008 at 4:07 pmI’ve done the Goecha-La trek upto Lake Samiti (approx 4,300 m) almost up to the base of Mt Kanchenjunga in Sikkim and could well visualize your wonderful experiences. Thank you for sharing. :)
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Dave says
May 1, 2008 at 4:56 amSure thing Celine – I know Mt Kanchenjunga is almost as high as Everest so that must’ve been an amazing trek!
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Celine says
April 28, 2008 at 11:07 amI’ve done the Goecha-La trek upto Lake Samiti (approx 4,300 m) almost up to the base of Mt Kanchenjunga in Sikkim and could well visualize your wonderful experiences. Thank you for sharing. :)
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Dave says
April 30, 2008 at 11:56 pmSure thing Celine – I know Mt Kanchenjunga is almost as high as Everest so that must’ve been an amazing trek!
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crambox says
April 29, 2008 at 3:00 amDave Just fantastic what a journey The pictures were great good eye!!
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crambox says
April 28, 2008 at 10:00 pmDave Just fantastic what a journey The pictures were great good eye!!
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Ames says
April 29, 2008 at 11:32 pmWhen are you going back??? I’ll start saving my $$$ now… I’ll trek with you. We can eat A LOT and take our time!!! Are you in??? Great posts…
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Dave says
May 1, 2008 at 4:59 amYep, I’m in for another trek in Nepal for sure, though I couldn’t see it happening before 2010 since I’ll be broke upon my return home.
I’ve learned how important it is to try and ensure the people you go with have the same goals, time, mental toughness, and general fitness. Just wish Nepal was closer to the USA!!
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Ames says
April 29, 2008 at 6:32 pmWhen are you going back??? I’ll start saving my $$$ now… I’ll trek with you. We can eat A LOT and take our time!!! Are you in??? Great posts…
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Dave says
April 30, 2008 at 11:59 pmYep, I’m in for another trek in Nepal for sure, though I couldn’t see it happening before 2010 since I’ll be broke upon my return home.
I’ve learned how important it is to try and ensure the people you go with have the same goals, time, mental toughness, and general fitness. Just wish Nepal was closer to the USA!!
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Dan says
April 30, 2008 at 6:42 pmGreat tips there Dave. 1 Month out for me now my plans have hit an obstacle, I’m still determined to go though. I may post about it in the coming weeks. You really are doing a lot of the things I’ve been dreaming about now.
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Dave says
May 1, 2008 at 12:00 amDan – I’m still following your blog so I hope you’ll be able to navigate around that obstacle because we’re the lucky few with the desire to make trips like this a reality. By the way, I went rafting with a woman from Tasmania the past few days. :)
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Dan says
April 30, 2008 at 11:42 pmGreat tips there Dave. 1 Month out for me now my plans have hit an obstacle, I’m still determined to go though. I may post about it in the coming weeks. You really are doing a lot of the things I’ve been dreaming about now.
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Dave says
May 1, 2008 at 5:00 amDan – I’m still following your blog so I hope you’ll be able to navigate around that obstacle because we’re the lucky few with the desire to make trips like this a reality. By the way, I went rafting with a woman from Tasmania the past few days. :)
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Abby says
August 22, 2008 at 11:06 amDave,
I had a couple of questions about your trek etc. I’m going to Nepal April next year and am hoping to do the Annapurna Sanctuary trek.
I’m not too sure whether I should organise it here with a local agent (in Melbourne, AUS) (quoted me $2000AUD). The agent has strong connections with the locals in Kathmandu and I can do the trek by myself with my own porter and cook, OR if I should take a chance and book it over there and do it as a small group…?!
What are your thoughts? I’m thinking it’d be an experience that I’d probably like to share with others around me and not fly solo…
Your help would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers, Abby
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Dave says
August 25, 2008 at 5:25 amJust a quick note to other readers that I responded to Abby directly via email. :)
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Abby says
August 22, 2008 at 6:06 amDave,
I had a couple of questions about your trek etc. I’m going to Nepal April next year and am hoping to do the Annapurna Sanctuary trek.
I’m not too sure whether I should organise it here with a local agent (in Melbourne, AUS) (quoted me $2000AUD). The agent has strong connections with the locals in Kathmandu and I can do the trek by myself with my own porter and cook, OR if I should take a chance and book it over there and do it as a small group…?!
What are your thoughts? I’m thinking it’d be an experience that I’d probably like to share with others around me and not fly solo…
Your help would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers, Abby
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Dave says
August 25, 2008 at 12:25 amJust a quick note to other readers that I responded to Abby directly via email. :)
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Adri says
August 5, 2009 at 8:50 amHi Dave,
I will trekking to Nepal mid of Sep this year, your tips are really helpful!! Thank you for sharing!
Cheers,
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Adri says
August 5, 2009 at 3:50 amHi Dave,
I will trekking to Nepal mid of Sep this year, your tips are really helpful!! Thank you for sharing!
Cheers,
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Dave says
August 7, 2009 at 1:54 pmHi Adri – thanks for the feedback! You’re going to have an amazing time. Which trek are you planning to do?
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Dave says
August 7, 2009 at 8:54 amHi Adri – thanks for the feedback! You’re going to have an amazing time. Which trek are you planning to do?
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Adri says
August 13, 2009 at 10:09 amHi Dave,
Only do short trekking for 6 days. We will trek to Annapurna Poonhill, then stay in Pokhara for 3 days and in Kathmandu for 2 days before fly back to Jakarta. Do you have any suggestion? Any interesting place between Pokhara and Katmandu?
Cheers,
Adri
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prashant pakhrin. says
February 13, 2011 at 7:39 amHi guys,
Namaste!
A warm greeting from Nepal.
How are you? This is prashant tamang an experince trekking guide over the 10 years in Nepal.
you can see my comments abouthe treks.
http://www.pkrprashant.blogspot.com
Best Regards. prashant
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Adri says
August 13, 2009 at 5:09 amHi Dave,
Only do short trekking for 6 days. We will trek to Annapurna Poonhill, then stay in Pokhara for 3 days and in Kathmandu for 2 days before fly back to Jakarta. Do you have any suggestion? Any interesting place between Pokhara and Katmandu?
Cheers,
Adri
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Dave says
August 13, 2009 at 4:34 pmHi Adri – sounds like a good plan, but certainly a quick one too. I didn’t stop anywhere between Pokhara and Kathmandu so I can’t make any suggestions there, but you can explore a little around Pokhara. Short taxi rides can take you to a nearby Tibetan school and monastery, and even staying within Pokhara, you can go for a boat ride on the lake, go paragliding, or hike (1 hour) up to the Japanese Peace Pagoda. You’ll have a great time!
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Dave says
August 13, 2009 at 11:34 amHi Adri – sounds like a good plan, but certainly a quick one too. I didn’t stop anywhere between Pokhara and Kathmandu so I can’t make any suggestions there, but you can explore a little around Pokhara. Short taxi rides can take you to a nearby Tibetan school and monastery, and even staying within Pokhara, you can go for a boat ride on the lake, go paragliding, or hike (1 hour) up to the Japanese Peace Pagoda. You’ll have a great time!
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Michaela Potter says
August 21, 2009 at 11:03 pmBrings back some wonderful memories of my trek in 2001. I did the Circuit and loved it every step of the way.
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Michaela Potter says
August 21, 2009 at 6:03 pmBrings back some wonderful memories of my trek in 2001. I did the Circuit and loved it every step of the way.
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Adri says
August 22, 2009 at 12:14 pmI know its too short :-) Thanks for the suggestions!
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Adri says
August 22, 2009 at 7:14 amI know its too short :-) Thanks for the suggestions!
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Pot says
September 6, 2009 at 4:59 amThanks for great info. It will be my first time at the end of next month of 5 days trekking…
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Pot says
September 5, 2009 at 11:59 pmThanks for great info. It will be my first time at the end of next month of 5 days trekking…
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Dave says
September 6, 2009 at 6:25 pmHi Pot – Thanks for stopping by. I’m sure you’ll have a great time! Good luck
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Dave says
September 6, 2009 at 1:25 pmHi Pot – Thanks for stopping by. I’m sure you’ll have a great time! Good luck
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prashant pakhrin says
February 13, 2011 at 7:49 amHi Dear Trekkers,
Namaste!!
A warm greeting from Nepal!!
This is prashant, I m an experience over the 10 years trekking guide in Nepal!.
Hoping to hearing soon from the trekkers.
for the comments of past clients and read about my treks.
http://www.pkrprashant.blogspot.com
Best Regards.
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Stan says
September 10, 2012 at 4:29 pmI am about to do the Anapurna sanctuary treck. We were going to do it on our own. Is there any need or possibility to make tea house reservations ahead of time?
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Dave says
September 10, 2012 at 6:11 pmNo Stan, there’s no need to reserve tea houses ahead of time. The only exception might be in the high season (April and October), but even then I think there are enough rooms to go around.
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Rajendra Pant. says
September 15, 2013 at 2:44 pmMy name is Yam Bahadur Pant, though I am commonly known as “Rajendra” I born in 1977, then have been working as a Trekking Guide in the Himalaya since
1996, first as a porter and now as a Government licensed guide. As a team leader, myself and my fellow guides and porters work independently taking tourists on treks all throughout the Himalayan region. Having completed my intermediate Arts (Humanities) and currently completing my Bachelors degree, I am able to Fluently speak English, and better learning Spanish. Also as a guide I can provide You with a vast knowledge about the culture, language and local people of Nepal As well as being very hospitable. I am also very passionate about nature, particularly that of the mountains and while trekking I am sensitive and environmentally aware of my surroundings. In my experience I have climbed to heights over 6000 meters. I love my job and being out among the majestic beauty of the mountains and feel that if you choose to do a trek with me you will benefit from my experience, knowledge and passion of the Himalayas!!!
There is no question that Nepal offers some of their most spectacular and beautiful scenery in the world. Eight of the world’s ten highest peaks are found here, including the famous Mountain Everest. Hiking through the Himalayas you will be following paths that have been used for centuries and passing through villages with local people from a diverse range of ethical backgrounds. Their warm, outgoing and friendly natures help provide a valuable experience to The trekkers. The lengths of the different treks vary greatly and can be easily adjusted to suite your needs. Some people choose to spend just a few days in the mountains, others stay weeks and even months!! You can string a few popular treks together or just do a part of another trek many treks. Naturally,the best charming people are well-coming you in Nepal for all season.