Mountain biking Cotopaxi Volcano was the most scenic, exciting bike ride of my life (and one of my favorite day trips ever). I first learned about this high-altitude adventure from Jack and Jill in a story they wrote about activities that did NOT kill them in Ecuador.
Excellent. But I had a few concerns before I'd be ready to sign up. First, can I find a tour company that uses quality bikes and keeps the brakes in good condition?
Yes. After googling around, I discovered several positive referrals for the Biking Dutchman, who has been running tours to Cotopaxi for an odd 25 years, before anyone else, I'm sure. And that's just one of many trips they run throughout the country (for more serious riders).
Second, how would I feel at our drop-off point, 4,500 meters above sea level, when I was already having light headaches while acclimating to Quito's 2,800-meter elevation?
When I visited the Biking Dutchman's office, I was met by the daughter of the company's founder. Of course, she's taken the bike ride and assured me it was no big deal.
Unlike other bike tours, theirs was more focused on bike riding and did not include the (strenuous) 300-meter walk up to the base camp used for summit attempts (aka the refuge).
In other words, we'd be driven to the parking lot at 4,500 meters and almost immediately beginning our descent. So, I paid a $10 deposit on the $59 tour (which included lunch).
My trip left the next day, a Saturday morning, which made getting a good night's sleep in the hostel near impossible.
Related: Top Things To Do in Ecuador
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How To Mountain Bike One of the World's Tallest Active Volcanoes
At 7 or 8 AM, I grabbed a quick breakfast at one of the few open restaurants in Plaza Foch and met up with the guides and our group for the day outside the Biking Dutchman's office.
We piled into two 4x4 trucks, with the mountain bikes on top, and drove about two hours through southern Quito to Cotopaxi National Park, stopping for snacks once along the way.
During the drive, I got to know others in my truck. Most were Americans, and there were even two older couples, one in their 40s and one easily in their 50s. I admired their sense of adventure.
Once inside the park, we stopped at a rest area, where I had the chance to drink my first cup of coca leaf tea, which is supposed to help with the effects of high altitudes. For $3 per cup, it better!
This was also where we were fitted with helmets and given gloves, which are as much for warmth as protecting our hands from the day's riding and in the event we should bite the dust on the rocky roads.
And then we began the ascent up the volcano to the parking lot at 4,500 meters. The altitude was a new high for me, though it lacks the sense of accomplishment when you don't get there by trekking.
Our guide matched each person individually with a bike based on our heights. Once we had our bikes, he gave us a safety briefing, including tips for how to properly go mountain biking down Cotopaxi Volcano (or anywhere, for that matter).
Tips for Mountain Biking Cotopaxi Volcano
- Use the back brake 70% and the front brake 30%.
- Don't mix up the brakes; if you press the front only, you'll immediately fly over the handlebars.
- Stand up with the pedals parallel to the ground, your right (dominant) foot forward, and your knees bent.
- Lean your weight backward, especially on the steeper terrain.
- It's better to allow the bike to gain some speed than to be riding the brakes hard the whole way (let the bike's front shock absorbers do their job, and you'll have a more comfortable ride).
And then we were off and riding down one of the world's tallest active volcanoes! At first, I was riding the brakes pretty hard, however as I began to trust the bike more and more, I loosened up and did better maintaining a constant speed. The road was rutted, and keeping to the inner or outer edges often helped reduce the bumps.
Traffic continued to go up the road in the opposite direction, but it was slow enough that you always saw them coming and could adjust your position and speed accordingly.
The main downhill portion runs eight kilometers from the parking lot to relatively flat terrain, and it's over pretty quickly, even if you stop to take pictures along the way.
The sweeping views of the valley and nearby mountains were gorgeous, and according to our guide, the partly cloudy weather offered near-perfect conditions.
Dressing in layers is essential, as you'll want to be warm at the top, while a T-shirt or long-sleeved shirt is sufficient by the bottom. Sunglasses are an absolute requirement due to the elevation and reflection of the sun off the glacier. Sunscreen is also a good idea.
One of the 4x4s was always behind our group in case someone needed a break, which was the case with the oldest woman on the downhill section. Everyone else rode down without any trouble.
With the Biking Dutchman trips, you spend more time mountain biking Cotopaxi Volcano National Park after the downhill section, versus other trips, which spend that time hiking to the refuge and, if possible, further up to the snowline.
The valley's terrain may look flat and easy to ride, but pedaling at altitudes of 3,300-3,700 meters is still hard work. It pays to keep a slow but steady pace unless you want to be out of breath the whole time.
Lunch at Laguna Limpiopungo
We enjoyed a pasta lunch and spinach pastry overlooking Laguna Limpiopungo (3,830 meters). The chocolate brownies for dessert were the bomb. They are worth the price of the trip alone. Fresh ginger tea was served, a reminder of my time in Nepal.
Final Thoughts
Our mountain biking trip through Cotopaxi National Park concluded some 26-30 kilometers from where we started on the volcano. Toward the end, we passed wild horses grazing near the road. Some sections were more fun to ride than others.
At times, I was surprised at how fast I was moving over what appeared to be very rough terrain. Our guide was right about learning to trust our bikes-the more time I spent on them, the more relaxed I became, and the more bumps I enjoyed.
Storm clouds and lightning had begun to roll through the valley, and our guide wisely suggested we stop, whereas they usually allow riders to keep going for as long as they want.
I highly recommend mountain biking Cotopaxi Volcano to everyone, regardless of age, sex, or physical fitness. Though it helps to be in good condition, the spirit of adventure will serve you just as well.
What You Need to Know
How Much: $59 + tip
Difficulty: Moderate
Where to Book: Most hostels and travel shops in Quito. I recommend the Biking Dutchman (La Pinta E 731 and Reina Victoria). They use Trek mountain bikes and maintain them well. Nobody in my group complained of bad brakes.
What to Bring: A daypack, a supply of snacks and water (at least one liter, preferably two), sunglasses, sunscreen, several layers, including a light jacket in case it rains, extra cash for cocoa leaf tea ($3), and tipping the guide at the end.
