The Second Time Was the Harm: My Misadventures in Paraguay

That's right. I said the second time is the harm in Paraguay, not charm. My quick return trip there was anything but charming. After enjoying the Jesuit ruins, I should not have gone back. Let's start in Iguazu Falls.

It is there that I crossed back into Paraguay, this time to Ciudad del Este, one of the ugliest cities I have ever seen. There are no hostels there, just cheap, dirty hotels for people on a budget, as I was.

I couldn't keep the mosquitoes out of my room, and in Paraguay, these blood-sucking pests are known for carrying dengue fever.

After a terrible night's sleep, I decided it was time to move on and head to Asunción, the capital, where I figured there would be a lot to do, being that it's the largest city in the country.

I was wrong. Compared to other parts of the country, sure, it was lively. But after experiencing other South American capitals, it was quite a disappointment.

Asunción is a poor man's Montevideo, a place with some fantastic architecture, a few museums, and maybe a bit of nightlife, but that's it. Paraguayan food is nothing special either.

I was there during the winter, and it was still disgustingly hot and humid, with overcast skies the whole time and occasional showers that did little to cool the place off.

Like Ciudad del Este, the mosquitoes were everywhere, making it difficult to sleep at night. I still cannot believe, to this day, that I did not get dengue fever from the trip.

I was bitten more than 50 times between the two cities, probably closer to a hundred, even though I brought bug repellent with me.

We spent one day walking around the city, taking in the historic district, including the partially pink presidential palace, and one night on the town.

The locals were not particularly friendly to us. They kept staring at us, but unlike in Colombia, where saying hello often starts a conversation or a friendship, it led to more blank looks from the locals.

However, we had a good group, except for one girl who complained about every place she had ever visited, and we still had a good time.

Then, one morning, I discovered that my camera had been stolen. I think it was one of the guests, probably the one who left that day. Oh well. S*#t happens. But the most frustrating part was trying to leave the country.

Since I had acquired a visa before entering, I didn't pay much attention to customs on this trip. It turns out they pulled a trick I'm sure they've done on others: they didn't stamp my passport. As I left, the customs officials at the Asunción border said they would detain me for entering illegally.

I pleaded with them to let me go, explaining that I would never do such a thing, that I had paid for a visa, and that I hadn't realized the customs officials hadn't stamped my passport. Then it became clear that this was all part of the plan.

One official asked me how much money I had on me. Thankfully, it was only 104 Argentine pesos and a few Guaraní, totaling around $26. They told me I could leave if I gave it to them, so I did.

Every time I flip through my passport and see only three stamps for Paraguay, it reminds me that any backpacking trip can indeed be an adventure.