I visited Prague during my first backpacking trip to Europe a long time ago. I had a great time, but during my second swing through the Czech Republic last fall, I wanted to go somewhere new.
Once again, readers came through on Facebook, suggesting I visit Brno, the capital of the Moravia region and the country's second largest city, on my way from Dresden to Vienna.
Knowing nothing of Brno, I arrived to find a compact and endearing old town, with lots of interesting historic sites. Brno was founded over 1,000 years ago.
In one full day of sightseeing, I covered my list of the top ten things to do in Brno. If you have the time, I recommend spreading them out over at least two days. Tourist information is easy to find, and your Brno hostel or hotel may have a free map.
Table of Contents
1. Old Town Hall
The Old Town Hall was the first building of interest I encountered when I set out to explore Brno. It's the oldest secular building in Brno and features an ornate Gothic Gate. The sculpture's interesting feature is the lopsided central tower.
According to legend, this wasn't a design fault—a mason exacting his revenge on a city council that failed to pay him for his work.
2. Cabbage Market
The city's Cabbage Market is a half block from the Old Town Hall. Every morning, it fills with vendors setting up their stalls to sell fresh vegetables and flowers. If you like perusing food markets, this is good, though it's not very large.
In the center of the square stands a 318-year-old fountain, depicting scenes from Greek mythology.
3. Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul
Walk through the Cabbage Market and up Petrov Hill to reach the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul. With its matching spires, it dominates the Brno skyline.
Entrance to the cathedral is free, but you'll have to pay 35 Korunas ($1.75) to visit the towers and crypt. The cathedral doesn't open until 11 AM (or 11:45 AM on Sundays), so it's best to visit a few other sites first.
4. Mummies of the Capuchin Crypt
On the opposite end of the Cabbage Market from the cathedral is the Capuchin Church and Monastery. The side of the church is adorned with Baroque statues, but the cool part about the building lies below ground.
Due to the unique soil composition and system of air holes incorporated into the Capuchin Crypt, the bodies of the monks laid to rest there have been amazingly well-preserved.
Yes, the Capuchin Crypt is filled with dozens of mummies, and it's open to the public for 60 Korunas ($3) per person. Walking through the creepy yet sterile crypt was far and away my favorite experience in Brno.
5. Phallic Clock
Located in Freedom Square and built at a cost of 12 million Koruna ($600,000), this giant phallic-shaped granite clock is an odd sight for both locals and tourists.
The symbol of a bullet refers to the 1645 Battle of Brno. If the Swedish didn't capture the city by Noon, they planned to retreat. To trick them, Brno sounded its bells at 11 a.m., an hour early.
Every day at 11 AM, a glass ball descends from the top of the clock to the bottom. Tourists and residents alike can be seen sticking their arms in various holes, hoping to be the lucky one to catch the glass ball that day.
6. Visit a Brewery
You can't visit the Czech Republic, the birthplace of beer, without taking the time to enjoy a glass. Starobrno is the traditional city beer, and the brewery, while a bit of a walk from the city center, is a worthy destination.
7. Dine on the Local Czech Cuisine
I didn't have time to check if Starobrno offered brewery tours, nor was I interested in going on one. They're always the same. I did, however, have to eat some lunch, and the Pivovarska restaurant was right there, sharing the same building with the brewery.
The weather was chilly, and the beer garden was all but deserted, but inside, there was a cavernous, three-level restaurant. I quickly found myself seated amongst a cloud of secondhand smoke and retreated to an area void of others.
There, I ordered a succulent chicken breast, served on a bed of potato dumplings, covered in mushroom ragout and cream. It was a decadent dish. The dumplings were soft and fluffy. I need to eat more dumplings.
8. Visit the Mendel Museum of Genetics
The Mendel Museum of Genetics showcases a permanent exhibit in honor of Gregor Johann Mendel, an Augustinian monk who developed the principles of heredity in 1865. It's a small museum, and honestly, unless you're a genetics buff, I'd save the 60 Korunas ($3) admission fee.
9. Explore Spilberk Castle
Constructed in the mid-13th century, Spilberk Castle has a long history of being used as a military fortress and prison. Today, it houses the Brno City Museum and features several permanent exhibitions about the castle's history.
One of the upsides of traveling around Europe in the Fall is the added colors the leaves give city views, like the ones you have from the walls and parks surrounding Spilberk Castle. For me, these views made the walk up the hill worth the effort.
10. Villa Tugendhat
Last but not least is Villa Tugendhat, designed by legendary German architect Mies van der Rohe in 1930. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its design, which exemplifies the Bauhaus style.
I wanted to visit, but due to its popularity and the limited number of English tours offered each day, reservations must be made well in advance. At least this can be done easily through their online ticketing system.
While Brno may not be as large or well-known as Prague, it has much to offer tourists and expats.
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A Global Eurail Pass, courtesy of Eurail.com, made my train travel to/from Brno possible.
