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Home » Destinations » Asia

An Unforgettable Day in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei

Modified: Apr 19, 2025 · Published: May 9, 2011 by Mark Wiens |

Brunei is a small nation located between Malaysia and Indonesia, occupying a small portion of the vast island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. This off-the-travel-radar nation is famous for its Sultan and head of state, General Haji Sir Hassanal Bolkiah Mu'izzaddin Waddaulah.

Ship and mosque in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei (photo: vyngor, Pixabay).
Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei (photo: vyngor from Pixabay)

Although anyone would consider the entire island of Borneo to be rich with natural resources and abounding with fresh fruits of the earth, Brunei received an even more valuable worldwide resource: crude oil and natural gas.

It was just several days after attempting to climb Mount Kinabalu, in the Malaysian state of Sabah (on the Malaysian side of Borneo), that I decided to take the ferry to Brunei.

I was eager to observe a country that had been blessed with oil, and for once, the proceeds of the resource had been used to build the country and transform it into a wealthy economic nation.

Brunei Entrance Card.
Brunei Entrance Card

It took about half a day to travel from Kota Kinabalu to Brunei, a journey that involved a series of two ferries with a layover on the small Malaysian island of Labuan.

Before arriving at the ferry, I filled in the information on my entrance card, signing an intimidating red capital letter statement at the end reading, "DEATH FOR DRUG TRAFFICKERS UNDER BRUNEI LAW."

I was surprised as soon as I exited the ferry, expecting a typical Southeast Asian greeting with crowds of people and touts hustling to sell a ride in their cab, but hearing none of that.

Instead, a few taxi drivers were waiting around; none were pushy in attempting to persuade anyone, but they waited calmly for someone to ask for their services. I choose to wait for the bus to get to the center of Bandar Seri Begawan.

Streets of Brunei.
Streets of Brunei

The drive passed through ordinary Bruneian homes, and everything I observed seemed to be on an economic level many steps above the surrounding Southeast Asian countries.

Homes looked like they were Gardens of Eden, surrounded by neatly manicured tropical trees all blooming with fresh fruit.

The town was an interesting mix of people, with the majority of the population comprising ethnic Malays, Indians, and Chinese.

Although Bandar Seri Begawan is the capital and largest city of Brunei, it has a unique atmosphere, possibly the quietest and most peaceful capital in Asia.

The city was quite the opposite of a typical Asian city, lacking the roaring traffic, masses of humanity, and clouds of pollution. Instead, it was marked by pleasant greenery and quiet neighborhoods.

Drivers even halted out of nowhere to let humans cross the street (something considered sacrilegious in most of the world).

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

One of the most iconic symbols of the city is the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, a truly magnificent structure covered in an Islamic dome of gold.

During the daylight sun, the gold blindingly shimmered, but as the sun began to set, the dome reflected an amazing display of color and set an Aladdin-like mood.

The awe-inspiring sunset scene would have been a prime atmosphere for gently floating through the air on a Persian carpet!

Kampong Ayer, Brunei
Kampong Ayer Water Village

For 20 Bruneian Dollars (1 Brunei Dollar = USD 0.80) we hired a boat for a tour of Kampong Ayer, a stilted water village that almost 40,000 Bruneians call home.

Many of the stilted homes above water were equipped with electricity, satellite dishes, internet, and our skipper even mentioned that many dwellers owned cars parked on land.

We sped through the neighborhood, passing by water schools, police stations, a fire station, medical clinics, and even an above-water Shell petrol station.

Related: National Dishes in Southeast Asia

Ambuyat
Ambuyat sago palm starch

A highlight of my visit to Brunei was the opportunity to try a traditional Bruneian dish called ambuyat, made from sago palm starch. The sticky substance is wrapped around a stick, and apparently, one is supposed to eat it without chewing (this was learned afterward).

Although I spent only a single day in Bandar Seri Begawan, the calm atmosphere, friendly people, unique ambiance, and serenity made my stay truly unforgettable.

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About Mark Wiens

Mark was raised in central Africa before migrating back to the U.S. for university. After graduating, he decided to continue traveling the world. On Migrationology, he shares the cultural side of travel from a slow-paced local perspective that often revolves around his love for eating all forms of food. Join him on Facebook and follow him on YouTube.

Dave at Ahu Ko Te Riku on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile.

Hi, I'm Dave

Editor in Chief

I've been writing about adventure travel on Go Backpacking since 2007. I've visited 68 countries.

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