El Salvador is a small Central American country that is often overlooked in favor of better-known neighbors like Guatemala and Costa Rica. In this article, I'll share my travel tips for El Salvador, based on my brief visit.
My original plan was to spend one of the six weeks on my Central America backpacking trip in El Salvador. However, when I paid $400 for airfare to Roatan, Honduras, I wanted to ensure I had at least a week there. Ironically, by spending less time in El Salvador than planned, I arrived during a very wet week in Roatan.
If I had spent more time in El Salvador, I would have arrived five days later and probably had a few more pleasant days during my stay. Read my Honduras travel tips to see what's involved with reaching San Salvador by public transport from Copan.
Table of Contents
San Salvador
By the time my chicken bus from the border arrived in San Salvador, the sun had set. I stepped off the bus into the darkness of what was supposed to be a bus terminal. It didn't take long for a taxi driver to approach me. I was anxious, but I didn't have a choice at that point.
Once we agreed on the fare to Joan's Hostel ($10), he pointed me toward his car, which was parked in what must have been the darkest corner of the street, behind both a giant garbage container and a parked bus.
I laughed nervously, shook my head "no," and said I'd wait where I was until he brought the car around.
I began chatting with him in Spanish. During the ride, I learned he was in his tenth (and hopefully final) year of trying to get a visa for the United States. He'd visited several times before and wanted to live and work in Los Angeles.
My driver needed to stop three times to ask for help with directions to the hostel, and each time I was worried I'd get robbed while he was away from the car. We would've arrived faster had I noted the hostel's phone number.
Due to gang violence, San Salvador is one of the most dangerous cities in the world. I had every desire to reach the hostel as quickly as possible.
My concern for safety in San Salvador is ironic, considering I'm based in Medellin, but at least I'm familiar with the latter. I always find it unsettling to arrive in a new city after dark, regardless of the country.
Where To Sleep
Joan's Hostel lived up to the positive reviews on Hostelworld. The owner used to live here, and she has furnished it to make it feel like you're staying in somebody's home.
The WiFi is some of the strongest I've found on this trip, and it's conveniently located near several restaurants and ATMs, as well as a large, modern supermarket, so you don't have to go far to resupply. A dorm bed costs $15 per night.
Where To Eat and Drink
Across the street from Joan's Hostel is an inexpensive Italian restaurant and cafe serving excellent personal pizzas. I ate here on my first night.
Things To Do in El Salvador
Joya de Ceren
The main thing I wanted to see from San Salvador was Joya de Ceren, El Salvador's only UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Some reviews on TripAdvisor stated that there's not much to see, but I found it worth the effort. It's not every day you visit a 1,400-year-old village buried and preserved by 32 to 39 feet of volcanic ash.
The instructions to get there using public transport are posted at Joan's Hostel, and it's easier than it seems. In short, you walk about five blocks from the hostel, catch the 201 bus toward Joya de Ceren ($1).
Tell the driver where you're going, and he'll signal when you need to get off. From there, walk a little bit around the traffic circle, and hop a collectivo for $0.25.
The entrance fee is $3, and signs are available in both English and Spanish. I was joined by two young men from California, making it a little more enjoyable than going alone.
El Tunco
El Tunco is a popular surf beach about an hour south of San Salvador. You can get private shuttles directly from Antigua. Otherwise, you will need to take public transportation (unless you rent a car) from San Salvador. The beach is considered reasonably safe for tourists to visit.
Taxi to/from the Airport
Taxis to the international airport cost $30 and can be booked through Joan's Hostel. The trip takes 45 minutes without traffic.
rebecca says
interesting post, Ill have to read more. I felt the same way in Naples and Athens, just wanted to get straight to the hostel, never felt safe. Very smart of you to make the taxi driver come and get you.
Hawaii Amanda says
Thanks for the tips! I've got three weeks to get there before my sister leaves!
~Amanda
Valerie says
That was a good idea to have the taxi driver come and get you. Sometimes places can be a little sketchy. Great tips!
Katie says
Arriving in a city after dark always gives me the heebie jeebies ... never mind that the cities you talked about are among the most dangerous in the world! :/
Bjorn says
Great tips mate!
The perception that San Salvador is extremely dangerous is a bit overrated. Yes, it has a lot of murders, but 99% is between the gangs and gangs and the police. As a tourist, you are pretty safe. I've been in San Salvador for 4 months now and have not seen anything bad. And we go to all the tourist places.