I used the long flight to Tokyo as an opportunity to re-watch a fantastic travel movie by the name of Lost in Translation (2003).
I'd seen the indie classic once before, and enjoyed it more the second time (probably because I was on the verge of experiencing the same culture shock as Bill Murray's character).
On my first night in the city, it was Kenya, my Japanese couchsurfing host, that mentioned the Park Hyatt Tokyo was where the bar scenes from the movie were filmed. He had been there himself, saying it was a special place, and you had to take two elevators to get there. He also warned that there was a 2,000 yen cover charge ($24).
I have a tendency to go out of my way to see where movies have been shot abroad. My prior credits include:
- Maya Bay (Thailand) from The Beach
- James Bond Island (Thailand) from The Man With the Golden Gun
- Schilthorn (Switzerland) from On Her Majesty's Secret Service
- The Dresden (Los Angeles) from Swingers
My mission was clear: drink a whisky at the Park Hyatt Tokyo, and pick up Scarlett Johansson in the process.
After a long first day of sightseeing, I found myself in the bustling business district of of Shinjuku as evening arrived. Minutes before it closed, I picked up a local map from a tourism office and set off to find the hotel.
The Park Hyatt Tokyo is part of the Shinjuku Park Tower complex, and it took some time to figure out where I had to go; the delayed gratification only added to the adventure. I was a tired, jetlagged man in need of a quality Japanese whisky.
Kenya was right, of course. To reach the New York Grill and Bar on the 52nd floor of the building required two elevators. While making the walk from one elevator to the next, I passed by two other hotel restaurants. I felt grubby passing through the corridors of a 5-star hotel wearing jeans and a hoodie, however Kenya had assured me that as long as I wasn't wearing shorts or sandals, I'd be fine.
I stepped out of the elevator on the 52nd floor at about 7 PM, and was immediately greeted by a hostess in the darkly lit entrance to the bar and restaurant. I was also immediately greeted by a sweeping view of the city. When I told the hostess I preferred the bar, she mentioned the cover charge of 2,000 yen for the live jazz music, but it was only levied after 8. Serendipity strikes again.
The hostess walked me over to the bar area, with its piano set against the backdrop of large glass windows, and the long table where Bill Murray's character sat and sipped his Suntory whiskies.
It was a Thursday night, and aside from a few others in the bar, I had the place to myself. I picked a table next to the window, in the center of the room, with the piano to my left, and a direct view of the city below. It was a commanding view, and I savored the moment. It was the third time that day I'd been to the top of a tall building to view the city, and it was by far the best.
The waiter dropped off the drink and a la carte menus, and I got my first taste of Japanese fine dining. There were at least a dozen or so brands of whisky on the menu, so I was happy he also pointed out the one used in the movie.
Suntory Hibiki whisky was the brand Bill Murray's character consumed, and thus it would be the one I would drink as well. There were three ages, with prices that conveniently matched each. I opted for 17 years for 1,700 yen ($20). Starving, I also ordered a soft shell crab roll. The lobster mac 'n cheese was a close second.
Consuming liquor straight isn't my style, however when the whisky arrived in a tumbler, chilled by one giant cube of ice, it looked as sophisticated as the bar I was sitting in. I took a sip, and found the it surprisingly smooth. I savored the drink, enjoying the flavor, and ensuring at $20 a pour, it lasted as long as I did.
Scarlett never did show up, however my bill for the experience certainly did.
Drinking fine Japanese whisky, and snacking on softshell crab in the bar of a 5-star hotel with stellar views of Tokyo was worth the $59 price tag.
But we all have our limits, and I made sure to pay and get the heck out a few minutes before 8 PM, just as the jazz band was warming up.
Irina Sazonova says
Mmm... now I want a sip of that whiskey!
Lost in Translation is one of the films that I really like. I find it incredible that Bill Mirray can make the audience laugh with just a mere twitch of his lips or a slight body movement. No surprise this role was written for him.
Dave says
Irina, if I wasn't traveling with just a carry-on, I might've picked up a bottle of that whiskey from Duty Free on my way out of the country. :)
Andrew says
I really have to see that movie now, I love Bill Murray. $59 is NOT bad at all for a 5 star restaurant, particularly in one of the most expensive cities in the world, I'm amazed you pulled off a full meal and a drink for that much.
Please post more on Tokyo, I'm loving it!
Cheers,
Andrew
Dave says
Well, I didn't say the restaurant itself was 5-star. Tokyo has more Michelin star restaurants than Paris and NYC combined now, but the NY Grill wasn't one of them. Still, a Kobi steak there would run you about $300 which is insane to me!
My dish was just an appetizer. I later went back for dinner my last night and broke the bank. The funny thing is I've had better meals for half what I paid that last night.
Adventurous Kate says
Love it, Dave! Lost in Translation is one of my all-time favorite films. This is absolutely on my list if I go to Tokyo, price be damned.
That pic doesn't look like it's 52 floors up...is everything in Tokyo just really ridiculously tall?
Dave says
Actually, Tokyo's skyline is a lot lower than NYC or Hong Kong, and not as picturesque. I expected more skyscrapers.
I zoomed and cropped the photo in this post to focus on the street lights.
Check out this photo to get a better perspective of the height: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gobackpacking/5454506573/in/set-72157626089822936/
courtneyj says
That looks and sounds like the same table I sat at a couple years ago there. We too where seriously underdressed and I was impressed they didn't seem to care. We showed up at 9 so we got the 2000 yen fee but maybe I'll visit again before 8 this year.
Dave says
Wasn't the view awesome? I went back my last night in the country, but it was in the midst of a rare snowfall, so I couldn't see a thing up there.
Steve Waiksnoris says
What a great idea for a post. I'm a big fan of Bill Murray, whiskey, and Lost in Translation so it was right up my alley. Thanks for sharing.
Dave says
Thanks Steve, it was a nice way to end a long day of sightseeing in the city.
BlueGreen says
I have never seen Lost In Translation but the food at the resturant looks great and you didnt spend an arm and a leg to pay for it. The whiskey looks great can I have a some.How was it?
Sofia - As We Travel says
What a view! Perfect movie to watch on the way to Tokyo ;)
Rebecca says
Nice! Sounds like a great evening.
Dave says
It was nice; I'd never do something like that alone in the US, which is probably why I keep traveling.
Heather Thorkelson says
Nice! Went there on my 30th birthday to celebrate. I totally felt like the BF and I were in the movie. HA!