fbpx

Go Backpacking

Round the World Travel Guide

The Overnight Ferry To Koh Tao

By

The bay of boats on Phi Phi Don

The plan had always been to try my hand at rock climbing in Krabi before leaving the south of Thailand. Those plans changed when I wasn't yet ready to say goodbye to Josi and Catharine. I knew Steve (from London…we last hung out on Koh Phangan) would understand. He'd become a rock-climbing fiend there, and was even on his way to Koh Phi Phi Don on a field trip the same day I was leaving.

Roof of ferry from Koh Phi Phi Don to Krabi

Josi, Catharine and I sat on the ferry's roof for the two hour ride to the mainland. It was reminiscent of the first time we met (all of 4 days ago, but it felt longer).

A storm is brewing

Once we arrived at the Krabi port, it was time for everyone to get their backpacks. Given we were some of the first people on the ferry, our packs were at the bottom, though somehow the girls managed to position theirs in such a way that they were able to get them out quickly. Mine, on the other hand, was as far lost as a backpack could be. A little patience was required, and it was eventually uncovered. We boarded the shuttle to the travel agency where we had a short wait for the minivan that was to drive us to the night ferry.

Let's play

The drive was longer than I think we all expected. There were two Italians guys, two German guys (Robin and Martin), one unknown guy, and the three of us. The German contingent was picked up first, and they had laid claim to the front row of seats with the most legroom.

Four to six hours later, we arrived at our sad looking night ferry. It was probably a good thing we didn't see it in daylight. I might not have had the confidence to board it. There were mattresses set up inside, and even fans to keep things cool, however I was drawn to the roof.

Ten years ago, on my travels through western Europe, I heard about the overnight ferries from Italy to Greece. I had chosen to visit Ireland instead, and while I had a nauseating experience on my giant car ferry from England to Ireland, it didn't match the romantic image I had developed in my mind of the one to Greece.

Catharine reacts to the sleeping conditions like a champ

We were delayed about an hour from embarking because the electronic lift to pull up the main door on the lower level of the ferry broke. A group of Thais began to analyze the mechanical dilemma before them. The door was too heavy to be pulled up by people alone, so it was determined that the giant yellow crane would be used.

Several of us watched the first attempt from the roof. As the tension built in the steel cable, I held my breath. Something broke, and a heavy metal piece of the rigging flew backwards past some scooters which had not been moved out of the way.

A view to the mayhem on our ferry

By the second attempt, I was ducking farther out of view so as not to be decapitated by steel. The bent and broken railing on the roof (shown in photo above) illustrates similar situations may have been more destructive to the ferry itself! Amazingly, the second attempt worked, and the gate was slowly cranked upwards to a near vertical position.

Catharine and I ended up sleeping on the roof, under the stars and moon, as we motored (verrrrry slowly) toward Koh Tao. I didn't sleep at all, using only the provided pillow and blanket as my bedding. To sleep would've been to miss the passing squid boats along the horizon…the clouds floating eerily past the bright moon…and our approach to the small island of Koh Tao before sunrise.

Last Updated on

About Dave

Dave is the Founder and Editor in Chief of Go Backpacking. For more of his adventures, follow him on Instagram or Twitter.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Stu says

    September 6, 2008 at 11:38 am

    Dave, thats not a night ferry, its a people smuggler! I have not commented much lately but I read every day, your doing a great job and you get some great photos, despite being on your 10th camera!! :)

    • Dave says

      September 7, 2008 at 11:35 am

      Hey Stu – great to hear from you and thanks for continuing to read. I know my trip is a test of endurance, so no harm by the lack of comments. :)

  2. Stu says

    September 6, 2008 at 6:38 am

    Dave, thats not a night ferry, its a people smuggler! I have not commented much lately but I read every day, your doing a great job and you get some great photos, despite being on your 10th camera!! :)

    • Dave says

      September 7, 2008 at 6:35 am

      Hey Stu – great to hear from you and thanks for continuing to read. I know my trip is a test of endurance, so no harm by the lack of comments. :)

  3. kslye says

    September 6, 2008 at 5:33 pm

    I must say, your photography skills is getting better by the days. Good job! What camera u having? SLR? Love your phi phi photos.

    • Dave says

      September 7, 2008 at 11:34 am

      Thanks so much for the feedback! After taking at least 10,000 photos in the past 10 months, I certainly hope I’m getting a little better at my composition, if nothing else.

      For the last 4 months, I’ve been using a Canon Digital IXUS 860 IS (called a PowerShot Digital Elph in the USA). :)

  4. kslye says

    September 6, 2008 at 12:33 pm

    I must say, your photography skills is getting better by the days. Good job! What camera u having? SLR? Love your phi phi photos.

    • Dave says

      September 7, 2008 at 6:34 am

      Thanks so much for the feedback! After taking at least 10,000 photos in the past 10 months, I certainly hope I’m getting a little better at my composition, if nothing else.

      For the last 4 months, I’ve been using a Canon Digital IXUS 860 IS (called a PowerShot Digital Elph in the USA). :)

  5. Alline Louise says

    September 6, 2008 at 10:46 pm

    Hi Dave,
    Me and my partner will do our RTW trip next december and your blog is really a font of inspiration for us. Very complete. Congratulations!!!
    I’d like to ask you if I can put your blog in our list of links. Are you keen with this?
    We’ll be in Thailand in January… this place is really amazing, isn’t it?
    Have a nice trip and all the best for you!
    Cheers!

    • Dave says

      September 7, 2008 at 11:31 am

      Alline –

      Of course you can post a link to my blog!

      Congrats on your trip…..I can’t think of a better way to spend some $$$$.

      Thailand was beautiful….and I’m going back to see a bit of the north by September’s end. :)

  6. Alline Louise says

    September 6, 2008 at 5:46 pm

    Hi Dave,
    Me and my partner will do our RTW trip next december and your blog is really a font of inspiration for us. Very complete. Congratulations!!!
    I’d like to ask you if I can put your blog in our list of links. Are you keen with this?
    We’ll be in Thailand in January… this place is really amazing, isn’t it?
    Have a nice trip and all the best for you!
    Cheers!

    • Dave says

      September 7, 2008 at 6:31 am

      Alline –

      Of course you can post a link to my blog!

      Congrats on your trip…..I can’t think of a better way to spend some $$$$.

      Thailand was beautiful….and I’m going back to see a bit of the north by September’s end. :)

  7. Natalie says

    September 8, 2008 at 10:03 am

    That ferry is something else! Wow! What an experience. Seeing your photos continues to get me excited for our departure. only 22 days!!! :grin:

    My husband and I leave on September 30th to backpack to various countries around the world for a year or so.

    Our blog is: http://www.nomadbackpackers.com As always, we would love to have other opinions, ideas, encouragement, advice, helpful tips, and more left as comments.

    Thanks,
    Natalie

  8. Natalie says

    September 8, 2008 at 3:03 pm

    That ferry is something else! Wow! What an experience. Seeing your photos continues to get me excited for our departure. only 22 days!!! :grin:

    My husband and I leave on September 30th to backpack to various countries around the world for a year or so.

    Our blog is: http://www.nomadbackpackers.com As always, we would love to have other opinions, ideas, encouragement, advice, helpful tips, and more left as comments.

    Thanks,
    Natalie

  9. Diving Koh Tao says

    November 2, 2010 at 5:09 am

    That really is a pretty accurate rundown of the cross Thai peninsular run to get from Krabi/Phi Phi to get to Koh Tao.
    Have to add though, there are much better options for making it from the mainland out to Koh Tao. The night boat is cheap, but as you’ve discovered it’s really just a cargo boat that they whacked a few mattresses in, and charge tourists to sleep above the building materials, vegetables, beer or whatever else is being taken out to the island.
    In flat weather its tolerable, but i the sea is a bit rough, your much better to spend one night in a cheap hotel on the mainland, then jump on the high speed catamaran the following morning – much more comfortable and safe. The cat now departs from both Chumphon and Don Sak near Suratthani.