The highlight of the 4-day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu is the opportunity to walk in the shadow of the snow-capped Salkantay Mountain (6,264 meters). Unlike the classic 3-day Inca Trail trek, which requires you to book a spot at least five to six weeks in advance (in the low season), the Salkantay Trek can be booked in Cusco upon arrival.
And it can be done for less than half the cost. I'll be writing more about how to book the trek and what to pack in future posts. But first, I want to take you through the journey day by day, as it was an authentic outdoor adventure that tested both my mental and physical resolve.
Table of Contents
Day 1 - Cusco to Soraypampa
Begin: Mollepata 2,900 meters / 9,514 feet; End: Soraypampa 3,900 meters / 12,795 feet.
Change in Elevation: 1,000 meters / 3,281 feet.
Time walking: 5 hours 15 minutes
Pick-up
Awake at 4 AM, I wiped the sleep from my eyes, rolled out of bed, and moved my bags to the hostel reception. As expected, the minivan didn't arrive until 4:30 - 4:40 AM. Under the cover of darkness, we drove around, picking up additional trekkers. Our group for the next five days was slowly forming.
Abhishek, a young British doctor. A young German doctor. Two Dutch girls. Nicole (Canada). Two Malaysian women in their 40's. A young Japanese guy. And Kathy, an older Australian woman who had just completed the Inca Trail the day before (she did the two treks back to back).
Breakfast
As we drove from Cusco to Mollepata, a small pueblo, the sky began to brighten. We had a simple breakfast of bread and eggs with mate de coca (coca tea). Afterward, we were led to a large truck and hitched a ride for several kilometers up a steep, muddy road.
Our guide would say it saved us a few hours of walking, but nobody protested. Once the truck dropped us off, we began our walk straight up the mountainside.
Related: How To Get To Machu Picchu
I had given myself five nights to acclimate in Cusco, which is 3,300 meters above sea level, but I had failed to exercise then. My heart was pounding within the first few minutes.
One of the Malaysian women, both of whom had been to Everest Base Camp and successfully climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro two years earlier, complained of a headache. I knew if she felt bad at 3,100 meters before we'd even started, it wouldn't bode well for her that night or on Day 2, the most challenging day.
The sun was beating down and hotter than I'd expected. Covered in a familiar layer of suntan spray and mosquito repellent, I tried to settle into a comfortable walking rhythm. Over three years had passed since my last high-altitude trek to Indrahar Pass in northern India, and I hadn't realized it'd been so long since I'd given myself a good physical challenge.
Doubts began creeping into my head. They were familiar ones about my health at high altitudes and physical stamina. I recognized them from my Annapurna Sanctuary trek in Nepal, during which I didn't reach Base Camp, an experience that took me months to reconcile.
Lunch
After two and a half hours of walking, we stopped for lunch: soup and a rustic version of lomo saltado (beef, vegetables, and rice). Despite knowing that food is energy, I barely finished half my plate and needed as much as possible. Instead, I relied on chocolate and copious amounts of water.
I probably drank two to three times more water throughout the trek and pissed two to three times more often than anyone else in our group.
Sitting at the table, mind filled with doubts about whether I was fit for this trek, one of the Dutch girls said something that snapped me back into reality. Paraphrasing, she said any of us could do this trek if we wanted it. And I wanted it badly.
From that point forward, I walked with renewed vigor—as if I'd been asleep at the wheel those first few hours and was suddenly awake. Instead of allowing my thoughts to run wild with fear, I took control of my mind, and thus, my body followed suit.
Campsite
After lunch, we looked up the valley to see the glacier-covered Umantay. Unlike some trekkers, I gain energy by seeing the next camp -- the next destination. Almost two hours later, I walked into our campsite for the night.
We helped the cook and horseman pitch the tents in an area protected by a sheet metal roof and plastic tarp walls. It wasn't much, but it'd help keep the wind out and keep us dry if it rained. It was my first time sleeping at an altitude as high as 3,900 meters (12,795 feet).
We all scarfed down the popcorn served as an appetizer. I forgot the main course, but it was much better than lunch, as was the case with the meals on the remainder of the trek. By 10 PM, we were all in our sleeping bags. Day 2 would be the longest and most challenging trekking day, and we'd be getting an early start.
I woke up once in the middle of the night to pee. On the walk back to the tented area, I stopped and turned off my headlamp—total darkness. I craned my neck and looked at the star-filled sky—the bright stars you only see when you physically remove yourself from the modern world.
Day 2 - Soraypampa to Chaullay
Begin: 3,900 meters / 12,795 feet; High Point: 4,650 m / 15,256 ft; End: 2,900 m / 9,514 ft.
Change in Elevation: +750 m / +2,461 ft uphill, followed by -1,750 m / 5,741 ft downhill.
Time walking: 8 hours 15 minutes
Day 2 started with a 5 AM wake-up call and a cup of coca tea. By the time we'd eaten breakfast, the sun was already reflecting brightly off the glaciers around us. Our guide, Daniel, took a few minutes to introduce the support crew, including a cook, assistant cook, and horseman who managed the horses that carried our camping equipment, food, gas, and supplies.
I had a relatively good night's sleep. It wasn't the most comfortable, as the sleeping mat was paper-thin, but my rented sleeping bag was sufficiently warm, which mattered most. I bought some extra chocolate and water. I think I walked out of camp with 3.25 liters of water in my bag, if not a little more.
Ascent
We began going up the valley toward Salkantay Mountain, which would remain partly shrouded in clouds the whole morning. The day before, we got a glimpse of the peak both on the drive to Mollepata and from Camp 1, which was enough to satisfy me, given we were there in the off-season.
Kathy, the Australian woman, shared some coca leaves with us and a natural "accelerator" that speeds up the effects when combined with the leaves. Within a minute or two of chewing on the leaves, the right side of my tongue went numb. Spitting out the juices, as if I were chewing on tobacco, was less than appealing, so eventually, I spit out the whole wad of masticated leaves.
Refocusing on the trail, the views continued to get prettier and prettier as our hearts beat harder and harder. But I loved every minute. It was as if I was running on pure adrenaline that morning. I've never felt so healthy and vital. I attributed this feeling to drinking tons of water and snarfing Snickers bars.
The Japanese guy outpaced us all, and we eventually lost sight of him. Meanwhile, the Malaysian woman with the headache from the day before had rented a horse to ride up the mountain pass that morning.
She had only spent two nights in Cusco before starting the trek, so her body had not had enough time to acclimatize. I don't blame her for renting the horse; I would've done the same if I felt it was in the best interest of my health. However, hearing at least one other person in the group make disparaging remarks annoyed me.
The High Point
The closer we got to the 4,650-meter mountain pass, the more energized I felt. I surprised myself in the best possible way. The landscape had changed dramatically in the 750 meters we'd climbed in elevation. Gone were the green grasses, replaced by the rocky, moon-like landscapes often seen above 4,000 meters.
On Day 1, we practically had the trail to ourselves aside from a couple trekking with a guide. On Day 2, we shared the trail with that couple and another small group of trekkers. The lack of other people was a surprise and a clear benefit to trekking in the low season.
Euphoria struck us all as we posed by the sign marking the trail's high point. It was a new personal high for me in trekking at high altitudes, though I'd previously been as high as 5,000 meters during the visit to Pastoruri Glacier.
Maybe it was the thin air, but I felt I had the energy to go even higher. After three and a half hours of walking to the pass, I knew I could've gone even higher that day. But the most challenging part of the day wasn't going up; it was the following five hours it took to descend 1,750 meters in elevation.
Descent
After about 20 minutes of rest and picture-taking at the pass, we began our descent. Driven to reach a lower elevation to negate the ill effects of the altitude, I walked as quickly as my body would take me. My knees didn't appreciate that approach, and within a few hours, I started feeling sharp pangs of pain.
At an elevation of 4,000 meters in a verdant green valley, we stopped for a spaghetti lunch at the small village of Huayracpampa. Here, we found the Japanese guy sleeping on our bags, which had been unloaded from the horses upon arrival (ahead of us).
The last three hours of walking were the killer. Physically, they were the most challenging part of the trek for me. I slowed my pace and adjusted my walking style on the steeper bits. The whole trail was scree and loose rock, like a dry riverbed. I wanted nothing more than to get to Camp 2 to lay down and rest.
I began repeating a mantra, "You can walk slowly, but you must keep walking."
Blisters
When we finally arrived in Chaullay, and I removed my shoes and socks, I was greeted by four to five painful blisters on each foot. I usually carry a sewing needle to drain them, but I'd forgotten. Luckily, the German girl had one to spare. Dinner was a relaxed affair, and I went straight to sleep after it was over.
Day 3 - Chaullay to Santa Teresa
Begin: 2,900 m / 9,514 ft; End: 1,900 m / 6,234 ft.
Change in Elevation: -1,000 m / 3,281 ft.
Time walking: 4 hours 15 minutes
It rained at some point during our second night as we awoke to wet tents. However, I slept like a log. Even though we were 1,000 meters lower than the first night, the temperatures were far warmer than we'd experienced at Camp 1.
Rising around 6 AM to coca tea delivered to our tents, we had a filling breakfast, said goodbye to our horseman and horses, and walked along a dirt road that follows the Lluskamayu River. A recent landslide had taken out a section of the regular hiking trail, which runs on the opposite side of the river, so we took a detour for safety reasons.
Setting the Pace
Reinvigorated after a whole night's rest, I lead the pack. Compared to the first two days of walking, Day 3 was a breeze. We followed the river for the entire day's walk. As we descended in elevation and the sun rose higher in the sky, it became very hot and humid.
I walked quickly simply because I wanted to reach our camp for the night and escape the heat. It didn't take long for my knees to reject this strategy. Once again, I was feeling sharp, at times crippling, pains in my knees.
Landslides
We could detour around one massive landslide that affected the trail, but others still required us to pass them. It helps if you don't look down. A little over four hours after we started, we reached the trail's end.
A minivan was waiting to take us the short distance to the village of Sahuayacu (elev: 2,520 meters), where we had a gigantic lunch of soup, fried rice, and vegetables. We then hopped back into the van to drive to nearby Santa Teresa, where we would spend our third night.
The reward for getting this far was a dip in the hot springs outside Santa Teresa. They're situated in a scenic spot alongside the river, and we arrived before the other groups doing the Inca Trail and Inca Jungle treks. For 10-15 minutes, aside from a few locals, we had the pools to ourselves.
That night, we were to have a campfire. However, heavy rain washed those plans away. Instead, we drank beer and played a few rounds of a card game (called asshole) after dinner.
Day 4 - Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes
Begin: 1,900 m / 6,562 ft End: 2,000 m / ft.
Change in Elevation: -100 m / 328 ft.
Time walking: 3 hours
On the fourth morning, the group split up. I wanted to head straight for Aguas Calientes, as did Nicole (Canada), while the rest of the group wanted to pay about $30 to ride what's billed as South America's biggest zipline. Daniel drew Nicole and me a map from the Hydroelectric plant to Aguas Calientes. It was as if we were in Stand by Me.
Walking the Train Tracks
Nicole and I took a 30-minute taxi, along with an Argentinian trekker, to the start of the railway that runs from the Hydroelectric plant through Aguas Calientes and Ollantaytambo to Cusco. There were still sections where we had to walk on the loose rock of the railroad tracks. However, it was a flat walk through the valley behind Machu Picchu. Along the way, a dog began to follow us. Daniel informed us that the trains pass every hour or two, and sure enough, we had to step aside for one during the 3-hour walk.
Aguas Calientes
When we reached the entrance to Machu Picchu, near the train tracks, Nicole and I posed for pictures since we'd get up before dawn the next day to hike up. With excitement and relief, we finally walked up to the road from Machu Picchu's main entrance to the town of Aguas Calientes. Situated along the river, with the train tracks running straight through the center, it's a tourist town in the strictest sense of the term.
Upon finding our hostel for the night, I showered and treated myself to a one-hour massage, followed by coffee and a piece of rich chocolate cake. Dear civilization, I missed you! That night, we had a group dinner at one of the restaurants. We all ordered the trucha (trout), a dish I've come to relish when up in the Andes.
After dinner, a few of us went for a cocktail — five for one caipirinha, which drew us in the door. Unfortunately, they were the tiniest cocktails I'd ever been served. And we forgot about the inevitable tax and service charge they'd tack on.
Small drinks aside, it was nice to spend a little time bonding before we set off for our final destination, Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu, before dawn the following day.
***
Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.
Philip says
Very enjoyable post. I was going to do this trek a few months ago before a sciatica issue forced me to cancel last minute. Thanks for the ride.
Dave says
Thanks Phil, and sorry to hear you had to cancel. It was a lot of fun, and after the second day, not too hard either :)
Philip says
I did get to climb Huayna Picchu which was awesome and unbelieveably I have yet to blog it. Well, good excuse to return and a lot of Peru I still want to experience. Just read about your eating "dares" on your rtw trip. I dare say, our dinner was better!
Someday I'll Be There - Mina says
This is amazing! looking forward tp part 2!!
“you can walk slowly, but just must keep walking.” I've bee saying this to myself on the 33 days long Camino de Santiago...this brought up so many memories :D
I'll do this &/or the incra trail someday!!
Dave says
Thanks Mina, yea that 5 hours of walking straight downhill was a real knee-killer!
Lane says
I'm still not certain if you made a case for or against doing this trek. LOL. Congrats to you, though.
Dave says
Interesting. I wasn't trying to make a case either way, just relaying my experience, however I would recommend it and think the trek can be done by the average person.
It doesn't require you to be super fit, though I do recommend at least 5 days acclimatizing in Cusco before you get started, especially if you haven't trekked at such high altitudes before.
eirik says
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the interesting post. Pix look great too.
Would you recommend this trek for beginners?
Thanks and can't wait for part2
Dave says
The short answer is yes. In fact, it was the first trek that the British doctor had ever done, and he did just fine.
The longer answer is that it depends more on your attitude than your level of physical fitness or prior experience. Also, the more nights you can spend acclimatizing in Cusco, the better your chances of not feeling the ill effects of the altitude.
In the end, I found the trek easier than I'd built it up to be in my mind.
That's not to say it didn't challenge me, but I realized by Day 2 that it was well within my capabilities. And I hadn't done anything special to prepare (aside from not drinking alcohol while I was acclimatizing in Cusco).
I've met first time trekkers who completed the Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Circuit treks in Nepal, and those go up to 5,500 meters in altitude.
I published Part 2 today!
Jeff Klausner says
Any recommendations for reducing knee pain on downward portions of the trail.
Dave says
A slower pace, because as one of the Dutch girls mentioned, the faster you walk, the more pressure/weight you're putting on your knees and feet. Because gravity is on your side, it's easier to think you can go faster on the downhill sections, especially if you just labored to climb up a mountain.
Walking sticks are helpful too. I rented one for the trek. It helps relieve a little of the pressure, and I find it helps me keep a regular pace.
If you've had injuries or surgery before, you probably already have a knee brace you can/should use.
Michelle Roagerson says
great post!!! Thanks. 'll be in cusco in 1 week. what trek company did you use? would you recommend them or any others? Any recommendations on packing?
Dave says
Thanks Michelle. I can't remember the exact name of the budget office I used, but it faced the main Plaza de Armas in Cusco. It doesn't really matter which you use because they pool customers together so they can get more frequent departures. Every other store front is a shop offering these treks.
If you decide to go with the more expensive operators, the same trek can run about $500, and will leave less frequently.
Mario King says
Hello,
I would like a quote for Salkantay to Machu Picchu in December.
For 2 people, anytime after 17th December 2012.
Thank you
Mario
Dave says
Hi Mario, I'm not a travel agent. I can tell you I paid $180 (for one person) for the Salkantay Trek in October 2011, and it probably won't cost much more than that a year later. You'll probably pay more, possibly a lot more, if you try and book ahead so far in advance.
Eric Murtaugh says
Nice post Dave! Those hot springs near Santa Teresa are mighty fine based on location alone. My wife and I actually camped in the zipline dude's yard. Good guy. We also hiked (in pouring rain) from the hydroelectric plant to Aguas Calientes.
Karen says
Hi Dave - sorry to disturb you, but I have two quick questions! Off to Cusco in a few weeks, and was going to do Salkantey.
1. Do I need to book in advance?
2. Do you know why there is such a huge variation in price? (i saw one online for $550, whereas you mention yours cost $180!!)
Thank you! :)
Karen
Dave says
Hi Karen,
1. No, you don't need to book the Salkantay trek in advance, though if your time is limited, that's a good way to assure a departure date. Also, as it's the high season, there will be more people visiting Cusco, so once you arrive, you may need to wait a few days to get a trip, which you should be doing anyways to help with acclimatization.
2. Yes, the price variation has to do with things like the food, quality of gear, and guide's proficiency with English. If you pay one of the high end companies (recommended by Lonely Planet, and such), then you'll probably get a bit better food, and a guide who speaks better English.
That said, I was totally satisfied with the budget company I used. The tent and sleeping mat was fine. There was plenty of food, and I can be a picky eater sometimes, but it was fine. I thought our guide spoke good English, and understood everything he said (including the tour at Machu Picchu).
Remember to book Wayna Picchu from Cusco, as it has to be done in advance of arriving at MP.
Good luck!
Luke says
Hi Dave
This info all seems pretty sweet, and you seem to have covered most stuff, I was just wondering though, even in the high season this year (August 2012), would it still be easy enough, and affordable enough, to hook up with a reputable agency for the trek.
I dont want to book in advance because, let's be honest, the prices are mental, but also, I don't want to arrive there and be told to piss off.
Also, did you 180 dollars include the entrance to machu picchu and the train trip back?
Cool, thanks dude
Dave says
Thanks Luke. Yea, the $180 includes the entrance fee to Machu Picchu, which I think is like $60 by itself, and the train ride back.
If it were me, and I wasn't pressed for time, I'd still arrive in Cusco first and book the trip the first day or two I was there (gives you enough time to get some recommendations from other travelers, if you want). While you might be able to leave the next day, chances are you'll wait a few days, which you need to do anyways for acclimatizing.
Unlike the Inca Trail, the Salkantay Trek doesn't have a cap on how many people can be on the trail per day, so I suspect the tour companies have more guides and porters working this time of year to meet the demand.
Sumit says
Dave, this was a phenomenal blog. I truly enjoyed reading it.
My girlfriend and I are doing this trek August 23rd, and we both are first time hikers. While we are both in our mid to upper 20's and healthy, we have never done a hike before. Any words of wisdom?
Dave says
Thanks! Give yourself at least 3 nights to acclimatize in Cusco before you start the trek. The more the better. During that time, take it easy, drink coca tea and lots of water, and avoid alcohol and caffeine.
Make sure you have or rent a warm sleeping bag, as the first night is the coldest.
And walk at a pace that's comfortable for you. It's not a race. Don't worry about whether you're in the front or the back. Have fun!
Sumit says
I have read in a few places to go at your own pace. Are you not expected to stay with the group/guide?
Dave says
The guides know everyone's fitness level will vary, so no, it's not expected you have to keep pace with the guide or the fastest person in the group.
Normally, everyone starts out together, but over the first hour or two the faster people will lead the pack, and everyone will be spread out.
In my group, the difference in time between the first person and the last was never more than 30 minutes over the course of the 4 days leading to Aguas Calientes.
Khush says
Hi Dave,
I recently climbed Mount Sinai overnight from 12am to reach the top at around 5am, now the height of Mount Sinai is around 7500ft high and I struggled with that climb.
Have you climbed Sinai, and if so, am I crazy to want to do this trek if I struggled with Sinai?
Dave says
Hi Khush, I haven't climbed Sinai, however Machu Picchu doesn't have to be climbed. You can take a train to the town of Aguas Calientes, and a bus from town up the mountain to Machu Picchu.
If you want to walk from Aguas Calientes, it's still not that bad. Just 20 minutes to the main entrance, and about an hour to climb up the stairs leading to the ruins.
Khush says
Thanks for the reply.
I was referring to the Salkantay Trek as a whole.
My thought process was that although this is higher, it is spread over 5 days and it's not a constant uphill trek like Sinai was. Am I wrong about that?
Dave says
No, only the first day and a half are trekking uphill (about 7-8 hours total). The second half of the second day is all downhill, which I found much harder (on my knees).
The rest is pretty easy -- the fifth day is going up Machu Picchu, which takes one hour, or 20 minutes by bus.
Khush says
Ok thanks.
Do we need to book the Salkantay Trek well in advance (like the Classic Inca Trail), or is there a bit of leeway?
Dave says
No, you don’t need to book the Salkantay trek in advance. You can wait until you get to Cuzco to do it. They have daily departures all year.
Hannah says
Hi Dave,
So I am planning on doing this trek this October with three other friends and I was wondering what you would suggest to pack. I tend to be an over packer and would love some guidance. Loving your blogs so thanks for posting them.
Dave says
Hi Hannah, thanks for reading. I had meant to do a packing list for this trip but never wrote it up.
Short version: This photo
Longer version: Warm sleeping bag (can be rented). Clothing you can layer -- the first night is the coldest, after that it gets warmer, but you can't predict the weather during the whole trek. Walking pole (helps with the downhill the second day). The horses carried my main bag, which was dropped at camp each afternoon, I only carried my daypack with water, snacks, and camera.
Mark says
Thanks for the post. I really enjoyed your pictures as a lot of them are shots I didn't get myself! I hiked the same 5 day trek in early May of 2012. I had been traveling and only spent one night in Cusco before the Trek so my headaches were awful for day 1 and 2, which as you know are the hardest. Coco leaves and coco tea in the AM helped a great deal and I toughed it out on foot. I'm not sure if that was the best decision, though, because I was struggling to enjoy myself when the headaches and nausea came on hard. The Andean landscape is truly astonishing, though, and made up for all of that struggle in my memory. The other hard part was that the day we made the pass was completely cloudy and snowy so we couldn't see much beyond a few feet. All that went away during the hike through the valley on the back side of the pass.
The most exhilarating part of the trek for me was Llactapata. After the disappointment of no visibility at the pass, even though my legs and feet were torn up, I did the "extra" hike and saw the view of Machu Piccu from the west. It was a foggy morning with framed views of the valley, and just as we crossed over the ridge to the east side it completely cleared up and the view was breathtaking. Anyone who is considering this Trek, I highly recommend doing this part. Also, wake up early and hike the steps to Machu Piccu rather than the bus. There will be a line starting at 4am, but you can bribe the guards at the bottom to let you in with time to catch the sunrise at the top.
I used salkantay.org. Great cooks, but be prepared to take care of yourself out there when on the path. Our guides were often out of sight as they cruised along and chatted with each other. Food is more important, though!
Dave, again, thanks for the post. I'm inspired to post my own pictures and write it up before the memory fades too much more. Cheers!
Raphael says
Hi Dave,
We are trying to decide whether to take the classic Lares trek or the Salkantay to Machu Picchu. Any recommendation? What are the advantages or disadvantages of each when compared? Thanks.
Dave says
Raphael, I didn't look into the Lares trek, though I heard it's the third most popular after the Inca Trail and Salkantay.
Lee says
Hi dave I,m doing the trekk this year and was wondering how fit you have to be I,m in my mid fifties
Dave says
Hi Lee, the most important thing you can do is acclimatize in Cuzco. I spent 5 nights there, I believe, before doing the trek, and I'm confident it made a big difference. Meanwhile, one of the 40-something Malaysian women, who'd been to much higher altitudes, suffered altitude sickness because she only spent 2 nights in Cuzco.
It helps if you have previous experience trekking at altitudes above 3,000 meters since you have some experience to draw on, but overall, I think it's a very doable trek, regardless of age.
Ayla says
Thanks for the post!
I will be doing the trek in a couple days. Your blog answered some my questions/concerns. I feel that I now know more of what to expect.
Dave says
Glad to hear it Ayla. Enjoy it, and good luck!
Denine Ellis says
Hi Dave,
I'm looking to do the Salkantay Trek in mid-August, and certainly like the sounds of your cost better than what I've been seeing online!! ($500-600USD). If possible could you please provide me with more information on how you booked? I read that you were going to go into that further in another blog post, but did not see it in the Peru list. Please let me know!
Best,
Denine
Dave says
Hi Denise, I don't believe I wrote the packing/planning post, but it's simple. I just showed up in Cuzco, and booked a last minute trek through one of the many cheaper tour shops located around the main plaza.
The treks are so popular, you can usually get one leaving as early as the next day or two throughout the year (minus January).
During the low season, they pool customers together. During the high season, they hire more guides/porters, and trips may be with the customers who all booked through the same shop. Either way, the experiences are very similar.
These companies cut costs by paying guides/porters/cooks less, making them all the more dependent on tips. Unfortunately, the same people looking to save money on the trek are often unlikely to tip generously.
Ethically, I recommend tipping generously based on your experience, not whatever math is used to determine how much food they can buy based on the local currency.
Shyam says
Hi Dave,
What do you mean when you say "minus January"?, i haven't booked my salkantay trek yet but i'm hoping to leave on January 2nd, 2016. Do you think that will be an issue?
cheers,
Shyam
Dave says
January is the middle of the rainy season, so it's considered low season for Machu Picchu, but I believe the park is still open. Just a greater chance of getting wet!
abby says
Hi Dave,
Thanks for all your info here. My partner and I are heading to Peru in June and want to do the Salkantay Trek. We are wondering if we need to book it ahead of time. I see that you have commented that it isn't necessary, but we just want to make sure! We are looking for an affordable option. Any insiders on companies and the chance we would have showing up unbooked in June would be great!
Thanks!
Abby
Dave says
Hi Abby, I think you'll be fine booking last minute, as long as you have a few days to play with regarding departure time.
Based on my experience, all the little tour offices pool their trekking clients during the low season, so it doesn't matter much where you sign up. In the busier seasons, they hire extra guides and porters and such and are probably a little different, but I doubt by much.
If you're going to pay for one of the higher-end companies, which can charge $400 to $500 for the same trek, then it pays to spend your time shopping around. Otherwise, you can start asking other travelers you meet when you arrive for their feedback.
There are lots of tour company offices around the main plaza, and radiating side streets.
Pleunie says
Hi Dave,
Me and two of my friends are heading off to Peru at the 24th of July. We'll be arriving in Cuzco right after our stop in Lima. So we'll be there the 25th of july. We're wondering if it would be able to book the Salkantay trail the day of arrival in Cuzco and go for the hike a few days later. Or would it be too risky ? We don't want to miss out on Machu Picchu because we didn't book online in advance.
Besides this, we would like to know if we can rent sleepingbags there? Or would it be better to bring our own?
Thanks!
Greetings from Holland :)
Dave says
Hi Pleunie, I'm confident you could book your tour the day you arrive in Cuzco, but it's hard to say when the trip will depart. I think June/July is probably quite busy there since it's Summer vacation time for North Americans and Europeans. But the agencies hire extra guides and porters, etc to meet demand.
Renting a sleeping bag is very easy. Just make sure you go to a place that rents quality bags. Mine was sufficiently warm for the first night, which is at the highest attitude of the trek. You can rent whatever gear you might need, including trekking poles too. It's quite cheap, and saves you from having to carry the gear from Holland.
Ben says
Thanks Dave!
Could I do this trek with out a guide or is a guide required like the inca road? Thanks!
Dave says
As far as I know, a guide is *not* required. The trail is fairly easy to follow. I think a hiker with some experience would be fine on his/her own.
Melissa says
Any suggestions on age limit (lower)? My son wants to go with me when he's 11 (next year). He's hearty and very athletic, and we're a very active family that hikes a lot. I'd like for him to go with me if that's not totally crazy...
Dave says
I don't have any kids, nor have I hiked with any, but it's not technical, and it's not particularly steep or dangerous either. The altitude the first two days is the hardest part.
Melissa says
Thanks! He's got the makings of a great trail buddy...he's got astounding stamina (ah, youth...LOL), a great curiosity for "what's around the bend", no health issues (asthma, etc), so I think he may be able to handle it by then. I'm hiking Mt Brandon in Ireland this summer (an easy stroll compared to this) and he's nagged incessantly to go with me. This will be a great adventure for us!
Merel says
Hello Dave!
With which company did you do the trail? And do you know anything about cusco peru viajes? They offer the trail in total (with all the extra´s) for 300$. Seems a bit cheap but i can´t find any negative reviews. Is there a possibility to do ziplining with the company you went with during the trail? (probably the 4th day)
Greetings, Merel
P.S. I´m arriving the 25th in Cusco and didn´t book any trail yet. I want to start a trail the 31th. If i book a trail on the 26th, is that sufficient in advance?
Dave says
Hi Merel,
I booked my trip through one of the countless and carbon copy tour offices around the Main Plaza. At the $200 price point, they're more or less the same quality of service, and they pool tourists together anyways.
The ziplining was an option on my trek, if I remember correctly (which I may not) but I declined to do it.
Usually you need to book at least a few days in advance, but it depends on demand at the time. It's good to be a little flexible with regard to a departure date.
Monika says
I'm just wondering whether to take this trek or not and I came across this very informative post - than you very much Dave!
Ashley Wong says
Hi Dave, how would you rate the agency you went with? I'm currently contemplating whether or not I want to pay for those more expensive agencies as my friend and I (who love to hike) have never done a long trek before. I'm currently looking at BioAndean Tours for $420 for the Salkantay Trek - the only thing I'm willing to splurge on during our trip as we want to guarantee a great time. What would you recommend, booking in advance with a higher priced agency, or doing as you did and keeping it flexible and looking for a cheaper agency while in Cusco?
Ashley Wong says
Also we're hoping to do the trip on Sept 25, heading straight to Cusco after arrival 1 night stay in Lima (from where we arrive by plane) - staying in Cusco for 4 days. Is that enough time to acclimatize and is it necessary to stay in Ollantaytambo?
Ramon says
Dave,
Great info. I will be in Cusco from September 6/7 - 16, 2014 and am planning to do the 5D/4N Salkantay trail.
I have been sending emails to at least 3 or 4 of the salkantay trek companies (all of which promise to respond back within 24 hours as per their websites). So far no response!!!
I will heed your advice on simply booking in Cusco. I will have at least 4-5 days to kill in Cusco before I embark on the Salkantay trek. So I guess I will have plenty of time to to shop around.
I am considering on staying in Agua Calientes for another night for the following reasons: to increase chances of seeing MP on a clear day as MP weather is kinda unpredictable and also give me the opportunity to stay later in the day and enjoy a less crowded MP and its sunset. I read that this can be arranged with the organizers.
What do you think?
BTW, I will be in Cusco from September 9-16, 2014.
Thanks!!
Ramon
Dave says
As I wrote in the post (I think), I'm still a believer in booking last minute once you arrive in Cusco. You've clearly had your time wasted trying to contact some of the local organizations. If you're booking in advance, then do it through an international tour company like Intrepid Travel or G Adventures (which will also be much more expensive).
Sure, it can't hurt to spend an extra night in Aguas Calientes.
Monika says
I sent some enquiries and receiced 5 replies. I decided to go with Bioandean as they had very good reviews on tripadvisor and I was really satisfied, also they "reply time" was short.
But, as Dave says in his answer you can book when you get to Cusco, there are very many agencies.
Ramon says
Thanks Dave and Monika for your quick response!
I am all set then. The plan is get to Cusco and wing it from there!
Apoorva says
Dave,
Congrats on a wonderful blog! Can you tell me the places u liked in Cuzco? E.g eating places, shops etc (if u remember)? I'm heading over there in a few days..Just travelling with a buddy. Hope to meet some nice fellow travellers.
Dave says
Thanks. It's been three years since my visit, and unfortunately I can't recall restaurant names. I typically use TripAdvisor as a guide, in addition to walking around on my own and recommendations from others I meet in person.
There's a lot of bars and nightlife within the main plaza, but I didn't check any of it out. I was more focused on resting up for my trek.
Monika says
Dave, your story here was the one that finally convinced to go on Salkantay trek.
Thanks a lot again! My story is here: http://amusedobserver.com/en/4-day-trek-to-machu-picchu-salkantay-trek/
Rohan says
Hi Dave,
This is a really good post so thank you...Im flying to peru tomorrow and will be in cusco on the 16th. I had 2 quick questions i was really hoping to get your inputs on
a)if you have luggage, how do you mange on the trek? is there someone to assist or can we leave it at one of the hotels?
b) what are the restrooms/toilets like on the salkantay trek?
thanks very much for your time and i look forward to hearing from you
Dave says
The hostels and hotels can store your luggage while you're on the trek.
The toilet question is a test of my memory. I want to say that there were sit-down toilets available at every place we spent the night. On the actual trail, you'd be left to Mother Nature.
Sam says
Hello!! I know this is out of date but I stumbled upon this blog post as I was researching for Salkantay. I'm planning on going in May!! And silly stupid girl question, but are there showers available wherever you are stopped for the night? If so, is there hot water? Or does everyone go the whole 4 days without showering?
Thanks!
Dave says
There were definitely no showers the first night, and I don't think we had them the second night either. I can't recall the third night, but we did have showers with hot water the fourth and final night as that was spent in the town of Aguas Calientes.
I believe there were Western-style, sit-down toilets everywhere we slept as well, though I don't remember their condition :)
Graham says
Hi Dave
What a great blog & all info highly informative!
I have organised a group of 10 50ty+ somethings to do a slightly longer 7day/6 night Salkankay trek. Most of us have treked in Nepal and some have also climbed Mt Kilimanjaro in the past so hopefully know what to expect altitude wise, although you never really know how it will hit you.
We leave in a couple of week's time so not long to go!
My question concerns tipping, & while I know this is entirely optional I am trying to get a feel for what I need to tell my group to expect, but from reviewing loads of web sites I get vastly different rates. Do you have any advice on the subject?
Thanks.
Dave says
Hi Graham,
Thanks! On this trek, I found that people varied widely in how much they tipped, and it usually broke along cultural lines. Some Europeans not use to tipping tipped less, while I try to tip more generously because I know guides, cooks, and porters leading super budget trips like these are often paid very little.
My advice is to not worry so much about what others are tipping, and base it on what you feel is appropriate for the support and service provided. I know that's not the definitive answer you were seeking, but I think you could ask people from five different countries and receive 5 different answers.
amedinajordan says
Dear Dave,
I'm planning to be in Cusco with a group of 3 people (including me) in early August. I've seen your recommendation above for waiting until arriving at Cusco in order to book a tour for the Salkantay trail. Given that most of the comments above are from 2012, would you still recommend / is it still advisable to wait until arriving at Cusco to book the tour of the Salkantay trail with a local group?