Editor's Note: This article is *not* about happy-endings!
Full body massages are a luxury for most Westerners - the occasional gift to be given to a woman, or the benefit of having too much disposable income for a man.
If you're heading to Asia, you will soon find the opportunities for affordable, quality massages and spa treatments are endless.
I quickly became a connoisseur during my time in Asia.
Here's my general take on the quality of services on offer in various countries. One's experience can vary widely based on the masseuses' skills.
Table of Contents
Bali, Indonesia
While you can get a one hour massage for $5 on Kuta Beach, do you want sand and salt from the ocean being ground into your skin by a surly masseuse while a swarm of Indonesian hawkers try and sell you on their wares? No, I didn't think so.
There are more than enough spas where you can pay an extra dollar or two for air-conditioning, aromatherapy, a comfortable massage table, a little privacy, and the occasional free cup of tea afterward.
I enjoyed Bali's massages and spas more than any other on my trip.
I always appreciated how they would place a fresh flower in a small bowl and position it under the hole in the table where my face would be positioned.
Chengdu, China
The Chinese love a good foot massage, and while being able to watch TV and enjoy the massage in a room with my friend and his girlfriend was interesting, it certainly wasn't my favorite experience.
If you're into ancient Chinese medicinal treatments, you can give Ba Guan a try, however, be sure to read about my experience with it first. You've been warned.
Kathmandu, Nepal
I was fresh off the plane in Kathmandu - capital city to one of the most impoverished nations on the planet.
When I looked down a forlorn Thamel street and noticed a sign for massage, I was still thinking in terms of Balinese and Chinese spas. How wrong I was, yet I decided to follow through.
I walked up a flight of stairs and entered the dark, decrepit office.
I haggled for a price comparable to what I'd paid in other countries and dressed down in a bare room.
As for the massage itself, it was OK, but when your environment looks like a flophouse, it is hard to enjoy the experience.
McLeod Ganj, India
I was so sore from the last day of my Indrahar Pass trek that I could barely move.
The pain in my shoulders and ribs left me bed-ridden for 48 hours, so I decided it was an opportunity to try Tibetan acupuncture and massage.
I doubted the doctor's assertion that I would feel like new after three sessions, but to my surprise, she proved me wrong.
Thailand
I had my first Thai massage in Bangkok a day or two after arrival.
As I'd heard, it was akin to having a yoga instructor yank your limbs around.
I was especially displeased when she cracked my neck.
The whole experience lacked the sensual, relaxing nature of the Balinese massages.
This was closer to Muay Thai fighting on a bed.
After a few pleasant massages on Koh Phangan, I decided to give traditional Thai massage another go on Phuket.
On my second round, the masseuse was amazingly strong for her petite size. Eventually, I asked for mercy.
I had to repeat myself a second time, and even then she continued to use more force than was enjoyable.
I decided Thai massages were not my bag.
Cambodia
By Cambodia, I was starting to feel massage fatigue, so I needed to make the prospect a little more interesting.
In Siem Reap, I ran across a small family-run place that offered blind massages. That's right. The masseuses were blind.
I found my first shiatsu massage to be an enjoyable experience, and couldn't help but feel I was doing my part to support a small, family business.
Laos
My first massage in Laos was a disaster. I opted for my first hot stone massage since Costa Rica in 2005, yet the kid who gave it was a mess.
The stones were smaller than I expected and f'ing hot. It felt like he was dropping scolding hot lava rocks on my back, and every time I'd wince in pain, he'd say "sorry."
Fifty sorries later, I was happy to get the heck out of there, and he knew it.
I was willing to bet one of Luang Prabang's proper spas would offer a better service, and indeed, the next massage I received was worth three times the price.
Monica says
Here in Ecuador it's very affordable as well, although I don't think it's as cheap as in these Asian countries. Of course, you may also encounter scary masseurs.
It's good that these services aren't expensive so you can leave before the session ends without money guilt.
Amanda,traveling wedding photographer says
Thanks for this run down! I LOVE massage and get them every month. I'm in Salt Lake City Utah now and there is a massage school that does 50 min. $22.50 + tip - awesome! I am currently alternating between the school and my awesome licenced therapist ( we trade for photography ) who is AMAZING at hot stone massage.
I still haven't gone to Bali ( I found your blog way back when you were traveling there ) , but the massage and spa offerings are one of the main reasons I'm looking forward to going.
Don't suffer through a bad experience - it's ok to ask the Costa Rica guy you mentioned not use the rocks of let them cool a few minutes on a towel first. I've been there too though. I've suffered through therapists talking the whole time ( I promised myself I will not let them happen again .... I'll ask for quiet ).
If you are good at web marketing and web design, you could probably find a therapist who would love to trade with you!
Amanda,traveling wedding photographer says
Oh ...... and the experienced I missed out on ! I was in in Mexico near Puerto Vallarta ( I know .... touristy ... don't judge! ) and wandered down to Mismaloya beach. It was this perfect and gorgeous little beach. There was a hut right by the ocean for massage and I should have done it! We were snorkeling and worn out, but I should have gone back.
Dan says
Its funny the massages in Thailand I had were quite gentle and really good. I had one in BKK by a male to avoid the question and yeah, I felt like I'd just gone 10 rounds of Mauy Thai, it was excruciating.
Amanda,traveling wedding photo says
Thanks for this run down! I LOVE massage and get them every month. I'm in Salt Lake City Utah now and there is a massage school that does 50 min. $22.50 + tip - awesome! I am currently alternating between the school and my awesome licenced therapist ( we trade for photography ) who is AMAZING at hot stone massage.
I still haven't gone to Bali ( I found your blog way back when you were traveling there ) , but the massage and spa offerings are one of the main reasons I'm looking forward to going.
Don't suffer through a bad experience - it's ok to ask the Costa Rica guy you mentioned not use the rocks of let them cool a few minutes on a towel first. I've been there too though. I've suffered through therapists talking the whole time ( I promised myself I will not let them happen again .... I'll ask for quiet ).
If you are good at web marketing and web design, you could probably find a therapist who would love to trade with you!
Dan says
Its funny the massages in Thailand I had were quite gentle and really good. I had one in BKK by a male to avoid the question and yeah, I felt like I'd just gone 10 rounds of Mauy Thai, it was excruciating.
Dave says
Hi Amanda,
The barter system is alive and well in ways I never would've expected! Bali has such a wide range of spa services - you can spend very little and get great service, and I imagine there are some fancy-schmancy resorts where you can spend a grand or two and get spoiled in a more opulent environment.
Hmmm.....setting up websites for massage therapists.....you might be on to something! ;)
Amanda,traveling wedding photographer says
Barter has really helped me! I've done a few websites for other people in addition to working on my own ( I'm not a pro by any means and I actually don't ever take any anymore because I don't enjoy it at all ).
The thing that you'll need to be careful of is making them understand the parameters of the project. Like .... they can't just change the whole look of the website ...once they decide ... it sticks or they pay you to change it. You need to make sure they understand to get you all the text and photos at once and that can be hard for a small business owner to visualize. I've had a couple great web projects ( this lawyer who practically had his site ready to go for example ) and some nightmare ones ( the clients who think changes should be free even though they are taking your time ). I've dabbled only very lightly in web design (I was interested in completely mobile work).
You seem to be good at it, so you might find barter helpful. Pretty much anyone who sells anything needs a website, so you can trade for A LOT with that skill.
Amanda,traveling wedding photographer says
For my photo trades, this is what I've done so far :
Art prints and portrait work for massage from Rob in Salt Lake.
Family Portrait for siding repair on my house - $250 saved.
Wedding photos for roof repair on my house - $500 saved.
Portrait work for interior painting - $250 saved.
Trade for stay in Costa Rica b and b ( photos of the property traded ).
Trade for beautiful glass bowl by artist at the top of her game (did her headshots ).
My current trade is for yoga classes ( I'm taking photos of the place + instructors in poses for their website ) .
Trade with Gourmandies cafe for photos of plated food, staff, interior/exterior property - $500 in gift certificates .
I think there might be a couple more somewhere in there .........
Barter is perfect by any means ( I've had a couple people not hold up their end of the bargain .... they never did the work ...never got the photos ) , but things happen.
Dave says
Wow, Amanda - you've cleaned up. :) I know I probably could've bartered free hostel accommodation or other things for reviews on my blog while on my RTW trip, but I wasn't particularly pressed to do so. Plus, I think by not taking that angle, I maintain some street cred with my fellow travel bloggers.
I do really enjoy working with WordPress though, and I can set up a new, well functioning blog within minutes at this point. Once you know where to go to put the pieces together, it's easy. Much easier than fiddling with HTML!
BlakesJourney says
Wow, you really don't use the term massage conoisseor lightly- you've tried every fucking one. I fell in love with traditional Thai massage- I love getting streched and cracked. LOVE IT. In fact, when we were in Rajistan I got an oil massage and it didn't do anything for me.
You didn't comment on prices. Do they vary greatly? Or, is it more or less 5$/hr like Thailand?
Actually, hour-massage prices have really gone down in the States; perhaps because of the troubled times. I've been seeing signs in my humble suburb of Atlanta for 25$/hr. Too much for my blood (my wife and I are saving for our own RTW trip currently).
Any video of the massage places?! lol
Blake.
Dave says
Hey Blake - too each their own! I believe the Turkish massages can get pretty physical too. I actually met an American girl who got all but molested during a massage in Turkey. Ok, she actually DID get molested if I'm being honest about her story.
The prices didn't vary too much from what you'd find in Thailand. I would guesstimate all the 1-hr massages averaged out around $8-10. Sometimes I'd get 1.5 hours to splurge. I also got tons of other spa treatments like a body wrap in Laos and manicures/pedicures. I got a feeling for why women like to hit the spas/salons so often.
Nope, no video of the massage places!
Dave says
Hey Sean, I've long since forgotten the exact rates I paid, however you could get a nice 1 hour aromatherpay massage for $8 (plus tip) in the Kuta area of Bali. If you head to the more expensive beach towns, then the rates go up accordingly. The rates for a Thai massage in Thailand were about the same.
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