Blog - Go Backpacking

Snorkeling On The Great Barrier Reef

After saying goodbye to Michael and Ann in Trinity Beach, I was picked up by a shuttle for my ½ day snorkeling excursion on the Great Barrier Reef. Michael had suggested Green Island would offer the best conditions based on the prevailing winds so I went with it.

The ride out to the island was about 30 minutes aboard a big catamaran that felt less stable than the Apollo yacht. I hired (ie. rented) a blue, full-bodied stinger suit. Jellyfish weren't tauted as a big threat, however a nasty sunburn would be awaiting me if I didn't take precautions.

My boat arrived earlier than the big (full day) one, so I jumped right into the water left of the pier after suiting up. Actually, I had to pay to lock up my valuables first, and as I had my main backpack with me which was too big for the lockers, I covered it in my towel so it was clearly visible from the water.

The water was very clear, and I saw heaps (that's how Australian's like to say "lots") of coral and fish (big and small). I had trouble with the mask fitting properly, though eventually realized it was because I had the hood of my stinger suit over my ears. A small adjustment remedied the problem although the "free" equipment was clearly cheap stuff.

Two hours on the island gave me just enough time to spend an hour and a half in the water. As we sped back to the mainland I couldn't help but think I shortchanged myself in this great environment.

Cairns Tropical Zoo

I visited the obligatory zoo when I was in Cairns. I missed the Steve Irwin Australia Zoo, which is spoken highly of in The Lonely Planet, so I was overdue. It felt like a small zoo, however given all the animals felt exotic, I easily spent 3 hours there (in the 95 degree heat).

I caught the snake show, which featured the world's most venomous snake (the Inland Taipan). Michael said the hill they lived on was crawling with them, though they'd never seen one (just pythons that stretch across the street, among other creatures!).

Cuddling a koala bear was a mandatory photo-op!

And of course I had to watch the crocodile feeding. Sarge was a monster of a croc!

Arriving in Trinity Beach

I like hostels. My mom didn't think I'd be tolerant of them like I was when I was 21, however they allow me to travel to fantastic places, and are filled with interesting characters. Still, if I can't be in my own home, then being in someone else's is the next best thing. Homes are more comfortable spaces, more private, more personal, and more relaxed.

When Michele, my friend and former boss, asked if I'd like to stay with her relative in Queensland, I had to take a few days to respond. I didn't realize Queensland is the giant state encompassing the whole northeast section of Australia where I'd be spending ½ my time. Once I was caught up on my geography, I contacted Michael who lived in Trinity Beach a few miles north of tropical uber-resort town Cairns, and finalized the details of my arrival.

Michael met me at the bus stop, and drove me to my new home away from home for the next 2 nights. Apparently I'd earned some good karma because their home was set in virgin rainforest overlooking the ocean. I had to take a photo of the bed because it's the polar opposite of what I'm normally sleeping on in hostels - big, comfortable, clean! What more could I need?

Ok, I don't *need* to go swim in a gorgeous infinity pool overlooking the Great Barrier Reef, however it couldn't hurt! Michael, and his wife Ann, treated me like part of the family. They barbecued bacon-wrapped filets for dinner, which were accompanied by potato gratin and salad. Dessert consisted of fresh berries and cream. We ate on the porch with the sounds (and mosquitoes) of the rainforest around us. They had told me about a resident tree frog who hangs around, and sure enough he made his presence known after dinner. As you can see below, he's a VERY photogenic tree frog.

Day 3 (of 3) - Whitehaven Beach and Captain Dave

We awoke on the third day to glorious sunshine. At least glorious to most on board. When I heard we'd be on Whitehaven Beach for 2.5 hours in the morning, I pictured myself baking alive. And guess what? I was on fire for much of that beach time. I'm not made for such heat. I took a few walks along the beach, and later found some shade near a trail entrance. Since you had to wear a wetsuit (aka stinger suit) to go swimming due to the jellyfish (aka stingers), I didn't bother bringing one ashore. The crew cleaned up the boat and changed the linens while we were gone so they could get to the pub faster after we got back.

The sun beat down as we set sail on our way home. We sailed for about 4-5 hours which was fine by me, until I realized how hot it started to feel on deck. I ended up with a mighty bad sunburn on my knees, and stripes of red on my legs because I hadn't spread the suntan spray to even the coating out! It was worth it though.

As we got closer to the marina, and the winds let up, the Skipper asked if I wanted to try my hand at sailing the boat. I didn't hesitate, not one bit! I was over there in the blink of an eye. His instructions were to keep us headed toward the point of an island ahead at a bearing of 240 degrees (if that's the right way to say it). I found it hard to keep my eyes off the compass which was mostly for times of low visibility. I imagine those 15 minutes at the wheel will be a highlight of my entire trip, let alone Australia and the Whitsundays. Thanks Joe!

After we disembarked (in the rain, just as we had begun), I returned to Magnum Backpackers, got my bag out of storage, and opted for a double room to myself for the night. A little privacy after 3 days and 2 nights with 29 strangers on a boat was in order. The room had air-conditioning as well - sweet as!

The crew invited us out for drinks at Beaches bar next door to my hostel. They do a little after-party with all their passengers which is apparently rather unique amongst the 300 or so sailing operators in the area. Knowing I had a full day on the bus to Cairns the next day did little to stand in my way of drinking a few pints.

Day 2 (of 3) - My First SCUBA Dive

Our Skipper teaches us how to proplery dispose of all the beer cans (ie crush it).

I slept surprisingly well for my first night aboard a sailboat. We had anchored down in a protected area off one of the islands so the water was quite calm. Despite a little rain in the early morning, the overcast skies were a big improvement from the previous day's torrential rains (seriously, Airlie Beach made the national news due to 2-3 nights of major rains/flooding).

Skipper and Maxi at the rear of the boat.

Due to the improved weather and clarity of water, I was faced with the prospect of my first SCUBA Dive. The Skipper had given us a vote on the day's activities post-breakfast. Our choices were to hit up another snorkel/dive site, go to popular Whitehaven Beach, stop at a resort for hot showers/pool, or sail around a scenic fjord. The majority voted on snorkeling/diving because the majority of us wanted our free introductory dive!

As we motored to our new dive site, Avi (the divemaster) banged his head while trying to do something below deck. He was bleeding quite a bit, and there was a 1-inch laceration on the top of his head.

Despite concern for infection, he decided to do all the free intro dives. I was in the third (and last) group of 4, so I spent an hour snorkeling off the island. The water clarity was much improved so I saw plenty of fish and even more impressive, tons of colorful coral.

When it was my turn to SCUBA, he suited me up with a weight belt and vest/tank. I found that breathing through the regulator was hard (especially on the exhales). It certainly took some getting use to. I was nervous, and knew that staying relaxed and breathing regularly was required. After testing our ability to clear our mask and regulators of water, we went under.

Avi monitored our air and the depth of the dive so we didn't have to think about it. It took all my energy to keep focused on breathing consistently and not freaking out. We used hand signals underwater to verify we were doing OK (I didn't see that any of us had problems).

It was a weird experience overall. I know it could be a lot more fun if I get comfortable with it. I just don't see myself pursuing SCUBA diving further. I'm content to snorkel, and let the divers have their fun deeper down.

After the dives were completed, we ate lunch and set sail for Whitehaven Beach (famous for its white silica beaches - super soft sand I first experienced on Fraser Island). Hoisting the primary and secondary sails isn't an easy task. It takes teamwork and some muscle. I helped hoist the secondary sail, and then grabbed a spot on the high side of the boat as we sped to Whitehaven for the night. The Skipper knows the area well though we can't sail at night because there isn't much in the way of modern equipment on board. In fact, all there is in front of the steering wheel is a big compass!

By night time, the clouds were breaking up and we could see some very bright stars twinkling above. Unlike the prior night, we didn't have a tarp up on deck so we also had 360-degree views. It was quite wonderful. I believe we had barbecued steaks on the second night. Given all the dudes on board, you had to be fast on the food to get your share. A few people found it frustrating. Overall, the food prepared was quite good, and I had a serious appetite for whatever prepared for us.

Day 1 (of 3) - Sailing Amidst the Whitsunday Islands

After a rain soaked Fraser Island trip, I was hoping for smooth sailing under blue skies for my 3 day/2 night sail aboard the mighty maxi yacht Apollo (green/yellow 80-foot racing yacht). As you can see in the photo above, it was cloudy and rainy the morning we set sail from Airlie Beach. To make matters worse, as I cased the passengers outside Gloria's Cafe (our meeting point), I realized there were very few young ladies. In fact, it turned out that there were zero single women amongst the 26 passengers! Between the weather and multitude of Canadian men and couples, I was feeling a bit bummed out.

Still, this would be my first time sailing, and on a retired racing yacht no less. It had a successful history of winning big races such as the Sydney to Hobart race in 1983. I'd learn it was made of all aluminum, and was a one of a kind. The designer is deceased, however his buxom blonde 22-year old daughter takes turns skippering it.

Given it was a dude-fest, there was a ridiculous amount of alcohol brought on board. It seemed like each Canadian (and there were about 10) brought a 30-pack of beer and a 2-liter bag of wine (plus 1 funnel). As the crew was loading it all they said they had run out of room (which never happens). So after the two deck coolers were filled, at least 120 cans were stowed under a ladder (see photo). As for me, I brought 9 cans of beer, and maybe drank 7.

The crew was made up of Joe (skipper), Maxi (deckhand), Goosey (chef), and Avi (divemaster). All of them had to help each other out on the trip, regardless of their primary role. I think they all had to put their hand down the toilets at one point or another to unclog them.

So I didn't get a lot of photos from the first day due to the stinging rain in our faces as we sailed to our first destination - a snorkel/dive spot off one of the islands. Included in the trip's cost is a free SCUBA dive, so Avi briefed us in groups depending on experience. I signed a liability waiver I could barely read and tried to calm my nerves. As it turned out, the heavy rains muddied the waters so visibility was too poor for the intro dives. I snorkeled, though didn't see much. By day's end, massive drinking was under way (as you can't SCUBA after alcohol).

In the evening, with everyone's wet clothes and towels hanging throughout the boat's cabins, it smelled mighty awful. Most of our sheets were wet as well, and since it rained at night, we couldn't keep the ceiling windows open to provide relief. Despite it all, hanging my legs off the high side of the boat as we set sail through the pouring rain was exhilarating. Despite the highest winds (and seemingly highest waves) of the trip, the boat felt incredibly stable. I didn't feel an ounce of sea-sickness. Since all the islands are within the protection of the Great Barrier Reef, I'm sure it doesn't get too much stormier unless a cyclone comes through the area.

Officially My Longest Trip (Ever!)

Alert the presses - it's official! I've now been traveling continuously for more than 7 weeks, thereby surpassing my previous record set 10 years ago in Europe (during my first backpacking trip). It feels right to be traveling on an even bigger adventure a nice round decade after I first discovered my desire for independent travel. I didn't get homesick then, and I'm not even close to feeling it now!

Dare #3 - Completed(?) - Eight is Enough

Dare #3 -

From Kango Suz: If you can post any pictures of you with more than 6 single women with their hands on your one shoulder I'll give you $10 per pic!

Reward: $10 per pic.

__________________________________

I'm going to let Kango decide whether the photo above meets the requirements for the dare. Europe was well represented on the porch of my cabin in Airlie Beach. In the photo, we have 2 Irish lasses, 2 German ladies, 2 Polish girls, and 2 young women from Norway (or was it Finland...does it really matter?).

Let's Go Surfing

Despite being driven around, I still found the Fraser Island tour to be tiring. I managed to get myself checked out of the hostel on time (10am), and then killed off a few hours eating my way around Hervey Bay as I awaited my bus to Agnes Water and Town of 1770. They're two small beach communities next to each other.

Upon arrival, I found my hostel, Cool Bananas, to be the kind of place I'd want to stay longer if I had the time. Dinners were available each night for $4.50, and there was a big common area with free DVD movies. My first night I caught "Bra Boys" which is about a group of Australian surfers (who were portrayed by the public as a gang at times). It certainly put me in the mood for my surf lesson the next day (thanks to all who voted for me to give it a try). Agnes Water is the furthest north surf point on Australia's (Queensland's) east coast. I'm guessing that's why it's also the location of the cheapest surf lessons (about $13 USD).

There were 9 of us for the group surf lesson, which was apparently very few. Normally they get 20-30 people at a time. The waves were larger than normal. Heck, they were far bigger than I was anticipating, yet the instructor sent us on our way just the same. Because the waves were crashing close to shore at high tide, he sent us farther out to a middle area.

Frankly, I think we all took a beating trying to get past the waves breaking closest to shore. They were probably 3-6 feet high. The ocean sucked the life out of me, and the lesson was from 11am-2pm, so it was bloody hot to boot. Toward the end, the tide went out, and waves broke farther off shore, so we all got a chance to surf the whitewater (the little waves after the big waves break). I got up a few times, though I did better in Costa Rica a few years ago. I was soooo beat by the end of the lesson, I did little the rest of the day except watch more movies (I recommend "School for Scoundrels"). I then grabbed a night bus to Airlie Beach for my sail amongst the Whitsunday Islands!

Day 2 (of 2) - Fraser Island 4x4 Safari

The second day of our tour included inland driving to two freshwater lakes and a rainforest. The last thing I expected to find on the world's largest island made of sand is a massive rainforest ecosystem, yet I found myself walking for 30 minutes along the banks of a trickling stream in the shade of gigantic trees. The fern pictured above is 1,700 years old, and has remained relatively unchanged in it's biology since the age of dinosaurs. It grows 1 centimeter a year, and is apparently quite rare. It's one of the oldest living organisms I believe I've seen.

Neil cooked us a nice BBQ lunch which we enjoyed in the rainforest picnic area.

Our final stop of the tour was Lake McKenzie. It is special for being a big freshwater lake, and having very fine sand (silica) beaches. In fact, the sand is so soft you can polish jewelery (or you teeth) quite effectively. I saw it with my own eyes on a silver necklace and a coin. We all went for a swim, mostly hanging out in the shallower section (light blue) because we had some mental issues crossing into the deep blue abyss that lay farther out. Aside from a few turtles, there wasn't much life in the lake(s) due to a low pH balance.

While we were at the lake, a wild dingo made an appearance, quietly snooping around people's bags for food. You can incur a heavy fine if you intentionally (or unintentionally) feed the dingos.

After the lake, we headed back to Hervey Bay where I spent a quiet night at my hostel.

Day 1 (of 2) - Fraser Island 4x4 Safari

Touring Fraser Island, the world's largest sand island, by 4x4 is a VERY popular activity in Australia. The gist of it is to either hire your own 4-wheel drive vehicle and camp out in tents on the island for a few nights, or take a guided tour and let someone else do the driving. I opted to go with The Fraser Experience which was mentioned in The Lonely Planet. The groups are small - 14 people - and you cruise around in a gigantic truck, spending the night in an island resort.

As our guide, Neil, gassed up our truck, I saw a caravan of SUV's pass by on their way to the island. Self-drive tours are cheaper, and thus the most common approach for young backpackers. I felt a twinge of envy. They would have a sense of fulfillment I might be missing out on by paying a bit extra for a guide and such. And then I saw our guide plow past a traffic jam of these SUV's a few minutes after we landed on the island. And then I was thankful we'd have a roof over our heads when it started to pour rain (which lasted both days of the trip).

Goana

We spent the first morning driving up the beach, which despite the rain, was quite brilliant. Our big truck was faster than the little ones, though there wasn't much traffic on the island. The views were rather drab given the rain. We stopped at the resort for lunch, where I saw my first goana (lounging outside the ladies room).

After lunch, we headed farther up the beach to Indian Head Point, which required a bit of a climb. We passed a section of trees which were filled with heaps of Golden Orb spiders. Welcome to my nightmare! It was fascinating and disturbing. They were everywhere, yet I understood them to be fairly harmless.

At the end of the day, we had a buffet dinner at the resort, and a few drinks at the beach bar. Our guide played a game with us by roping me with the tall blonde English nanny in our group. We tried our best to figure out the solution to untangling ourselves with no luck. I wasn't complaining though!

I entered a casual pool tournament, beating one of the organizers (who had his own cue stick) in the first round, though losing my second game by a good bit. A few of my tour mates had stayed out extra late to cheer me on.

Bus from Brisbane to Hervey Bay

After a short night's sleep in Brisbane, I packed up and hit the road on another Greyhound Australia bus. Unlike in America, these buses are well-appointed. They're clean, include a toilet and tap water, usually filled with backpackers, efficient, and rather comfortable. In terms of the buses I will be utilizing on my journey, these are as good as it gets. In Byron Bay, I purchased a 45-day pass allowing me on/off travel on northbound routes from Byron Bay to Cairns.

Clouds

Along the 5-hour drive, I found ample time to appreciate the low-hanging, fluffy white clouds. I also firmly believe the various shades of blue in the sky are rather unique. If you look in the photo above, the sky is a lighter blue nearer the horizon. As you move further away, it gets darker. It could be I'm making something out of nothing, however I found it rather fascinating all the same.

The buses are required to stop every 4 hours for 30 minutes. On this trip, I devoured a meat pie for lunch. The pies are common throughout New Zealand and Australia. Basically, it's a dough pie crust with a savory filling. So far, I've enjoyed beef, chicken, and mutton pies, though vegetarian versions are often available as well. They are very filling and quite cheap (about $3-4 USD).

I caught the sunset in Hervey Bay, the popular jumping off point for 4x4 tours of nearby Fraser Island.

10 Hours in Surfer's Paradise

A few days prior to my arrival in Surfer's Paradise, a beach town between Byron Bay and Brisbane, I had received a "Come on down mate" from a couchsurfing host. He had included his address and phone number in the response so I was excited to have a free night's accommodation. I had sent him a second e-mail, however he hadn't responded. My gut nudged me out of concern, however I didn't listen.

Beach

I arrived in town by bus around noon, and promptly left a voicemail for my contact. Since I'm not carrying a cell phone, he'd have no way to contact me back, so the onus was on me. I tried a second time, then decided to enjoy the beach. It was sunny and hot, and since I had put my backpack in a locker for the day, I didn't want to go swimming, and thus sat under the shade of a tree on the beach, taking in the scenery.

When the heat got to me, I walked around the air-conditioned mall nearby. Surfer's Paradise is akin to Miami in the USA. Tall residential buildings buttress up against beautiful beaches. Several backpackers would later tell me they felt it had no soul. I accepted it for what it was, and enjoyed it. As the day drew on, I checked with two of the hostels in the area regarding available rooms. There were none. Zilch.

The accommodation service at the bus station said something about the least expensive place being $180 AUD/night with a minimum of 3 nights. Clearly I wasn't going to spend that kind of money. I walked over to the contact's apartment, knocked on the door, and received no response. I left one more (semi-desperate) voice mail around 6pm, and then went to plan-b.

My options for plan-b were varied. I could sleep on the beach or some bench. I could stay up all night in the clubs and 24/7 nightspots on the main drag. I could continue to stalk my couchsurfing contact. I could hope for a late bus to Brisbane where more dorm beds would be available. I decided to go with the last option, which worked out in the end.

Being ditched in Surfer's Paradise with no budget accommodation available was a good lesson. I learned to put myself first, and listen to my gut when corresponding with strangers. If my gut tells me they're not being responsive, I should make other arrangements.

Beautiful Balmy Byron Bay

I arrived in Byron Bay after about a 4 hour rainy bus ride south of Brisbane. Byron Bay is known for being a hippie enclave. It's filled with cafes, incense-filled gift shops, places to get massages and alternative (homeopathic) therapies, and of course, surf shops.

In fact, board shorts and surfers are everywhere. By my third day, I gave into an urge to buy a pair of new shorts myself. I don't even particularly like board shorts. Traditionally, you're not suppose to wear underwear with them, though you need to when trying them on. Plenty of people wear underwear with them regularly as well, except that defeats the advantage of having a quick-drying piece of clothing (to live in 24/7). I bought my Billabong pair on sale for 40% off. They're brown and orange which is why they were no doubt on sale. After I got back to the hostel and tried them on without boxers, they practically fell off me - too small. I either need to gain weight, or remain satisfied with my non-flashy blue Gap bathing suit.

It's in Byron Bay that I booked my 2 BIG activities for Australia - a 2 day/1 night 4x4 tour of World Heritage site Fraser Island, and a 3 day/2 night sail around the Whitsunday Islands (within the Great Barrier Reef). I booked the trips at the first of a series of tour agents along a certain section of street. The guy was charismatic and patient, so I was decisive and went with it. I booked on the slightly higher end of the scale price-wise, however The Lonely Planet seems to suggest you get what you pay for, so why not pay a little extra! You must know that's how I roll by now. :)

I can't say I did much in Byron Bay. It rained 2 of the 3 days, and it was quite hot so lounging around, indulging in gelatos managed to fill up my time quite nicely.

My diet on January 5, 2008:

Breakfast - peanut butter and jelly, granola bar
Lunch - 2 beers (it was hot out!)
Snack - Swiss chocolate gelato cone
Dinner - instant noodles

I did catch two movies in the YHA tv room. "Notting Hill" was a bit silly, though passed the time. More my speed was "Greet Street Hooligans" about English firms associated with football (soccer) teams. Great movie, though rather violent.

Then again, I did bear witness to a street fight between a big, bald English guy and a small, young surfer around midnight as I was walking home from a dance-on-the-tables party bar called Cheeky Monkeys. The young kid was completely drunk, and kept getting up in the face of the other guy despite the fact that he kept getting punched and kicked to the ground. I heard a guy the next day mention all 3 people involved were arrested. I really don't like fights, and a young girl was knocked over and crying as a result of this one. There were lots of people around, and some guys tried to break up the fight. Cars were honking, trying to call back the cop on a bike who had passed by a few minutes prior. Suddenly the signs up in bars about "no violence" made much more sense to me.

PS - no, I did *not* do the scenic 4km walk to the lighthouse. I'm on a hiatus from scenic walks.

Couchsurfing Brisbane

I rang Ben up from the Auchenflower train station, and he walked over bare foot a few minutes later to greet me. Turns out his apartment was only two blocks away - super convenient for all the couchsurfers he hosted.

Ben is a Couchsurfing city ambassador for Brisbane, which means he tends to host a lot of people and take an active role in fostering a bigger couchsurfing community in his city (and as I learned, all of Queensland). He was a great host - very connected to the local Brisbane music scene having been in many bands. He introduced me to the local community radio station 4zzz (pronounced 4-triple-zed), 102.1 FM. I was immediately blown away by what I was hearing - rap songs with f-bombs everywhere and the n-word (obviously not radio edits). It turns out the station had a 30-year history of shaking things up and they were still going strong. I listened to the station as much as I could during my 2-day stay - soaking up it's free-wheeling style, and great (really great) music selections. The DJ's were silly and fun too.

Aside from listening to lots of local music (and talking about it too), I did a ½ day walk around Brisbane, though the rain put a damper on it. Chris (another couchsurfer staying with Ben) joined me, though he'd already been to the city. We explored the Town Hall, including the free ride to the clock tower, took a ferry across the river, and spent an hour wandering around the (free) Queensland/Brisbane Museum.

I also hammered out a rough itinerary for my stay in Australia after an overdue read through the Australia Lonely Planet. Next stop, the hippie-beach-party-surf enclave known as Byron Bay!

G'day Mate and Welcome to Australia

I couldn't/didn't sleep but an hour the night before my flight to Brisbane, Australia. No doubt it was because I had to wake up at 3am for the earliest shuttle to the airport to ensure I made the Jetstar check-in (which closes 60 minutes before international flight departures) for my 6:15am flight. I passed the time by watching "Hostel" in my hostel TV room around midnight. It was very gross, though wasn't particularly scary in terms of what it could be like to stay in a hostel. I wonder what it has done for the hostels of Slovakia though!

The Brisbane airport is rather small, and there was no line when I arrived, so I checked in quick, and boarded the plane in a relaxed and sleepy state of mind. Jetstar is a discount airline, and the legroom was non-existent, though I lucked out with no passenger between me and the guy in the window seat. I nodded off on the flight (thankfully), and managed to get myself on a shuttle to the Roma Street train station, where I boarded a train to Auchenflower, my pick-up location for my first (of hopefully many) couchsurfs in Australia.

Final Thoughts: New Zealand

New Zealand surpassed my expectations, and while at times tiring and fast-paced, I would not trade my experiences for the world!

Highlights -

canyoning outside Auckland
haka dance in Maketu
volcanic mud bathing in Rotorua
Tongariro Crossing
trivia night in Wellington
bone carving in Barrytown
heli-hiking Franz Joseph glacier
cinema at Lake Wanaka
Christmas Eve dinner in Queenstown
jetboating
canyong swing
New Years Eve celebration in Christchurch

Discoveries -

self-catering is easy and can save me at least $10 per day in food costs
if the tap water is safe to drink, refill plastic bottles (do not keep buying water). bonus - you can downgrade to smaller bottles of water which means less to carry around.
the toilets have 2 buttons so you can choose between a light and heavy flush (yes, I had to ask someone why there were 2 buttons)

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

Zero (the holidays and tight bus schedule made it difficult)

Eating -

Mix of restaurants, cafes, and self-catering (everything from rack of lamb to instant noodles)

Average Daily Budget -

$115 (more than double the plan)

Let me know if there's another subject or topic you'd like me to cover in my "final thoughts" for each country I visit.

Poll: How Long Should I Spend in Bali?

Help me decide how long to spend in Bali, Indonesia! I have to decide soon so I can book my onward travel. Factors to consider include the fact that I will have been on the road for 2 months, not having spent more than 5 nights in any one place. The first 3 countries I visited could turn out to be the most expensive of my trip.

[poll id="18"]

Top Song: Snow (Hey Oh) by RHCP

Thanks to everyone for voting on which song was my most played after 3 weeks on the road. I was surprised to see Bob Marley's "Three Little Birds" come from behind recently to list as #1 with 12 votes, thus overtaking "Free" by Phish.

Of course neither came close to "Snow" by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. It held a 10-play lead after 3 weeks, and still holds a commanding lead after 5 weeks. Overall, my music selection has been mostly chill stuff, with some faster/harder/louder music for the Tongariro Crossing.

Picking an mp3 player which allows me to make playlists on the fly was a great move. I'm naming the playlists to match my experience or emotion at the time, and so I almost relive past experiences when I go back and listen to them. For example, I made a "bye bye" playlist for my departure from the USA, a "chill" playlist for early in my trip when I was feeling anxious, and a NYE 08 playlist for my recovery.

Rest and Recovery in Christchurch

After a month of travel, and 3 weeks of trying to keep up with the STRAY backpacker bus schedule, I was ready to settle in Christchurch for the remaining 5 nights of my stay in New Zealand, and to celebrate New Year's Eve.

Christchurch is the second largest city in the country after Auckland, however with only about one quarter the population (300,000), it's a big gap which is easily apparent once you find the city's center and spend a day walking around.

Everything is centered around the Christchurch Cathedral, set in none other than Cathedral Square. Tourist sights, bars, restaurants, and clubs radiate outward. I kept with the STRAY hostel, BASE, as it was literally right next door to the cathedral. I managed to get a double bed in the 6-bed dorm. In my collective 5 months of traveling via hostels, I've never come across a double bed amidst dorm accommodations. It's a great treat to rest my weary bones upon it.

I went out my first night with the girls from Christmas Eve - hitting up a popular bar/beer garden/brewery called Dux de Lux. They closed early and so many of the other spots were dead. Apparently Fridays are not a popular night out for Kiwis. We heard Thursdays and Saturdays were good though. We did find a crowd at an Irish pub - Sullivan's - on Manchester Street. I had a nice Kilkenny (Irish favorite, lighter than Guinness) while a cover band played Top 40 American tunes. There are some things you just can't escape I guess!

Really though, I'm trying to decompress. My legs are crying out for rest. I've had a few nights where I've been in bed anywhere from 10-14 hours. To be fair, people are waking up at 3-4am for early flights, and snoring, so it's hard to get a solid, deep sleep going. My goal is to see less in Australia, and stay more nights in each place. Hopefully it'll be so hot people won't be moving around much!

I went out with Matt, a Brit, on New Year's Eve. We went to a few bars, watched the countdown and fireworks in Cathedral Square, and finished the night at The Concrete Club which had house on the lower, smaller level, and drum 'n bass on the main level. I let my inner dance man out, managing my way home by quarter to 5am. Needless to say, I slept late (again!).

Fear Factor: Riding the World's Highest Swing

Date: Thursday, December 27, 2007

Mission: Shotover Canyon Swing

Statistics: 360 feet high (109 meters), 200-foot freefall (60 meters), 650-foot arc (200 meters), 93 mph (150 kph)

6 am - Unintentionally awoken by departing dormmates

9:15 am - Evacuate bladder

9:18 am - Shower

9:50 am - Evacuate bowels

10 am - Eat light breakfast - toast w/Nutella and green tea

10:30 am - Check-in at activity office - tell the staff I plan to say famous Bruce Willis line from "Die Hard" as I jump off ("Yippie-kay-yay, motherf*cker")

11 am - Depart on the shuttle to the canyon (making small talk)

11:15 am - Evacuate bladder again (just to be safe)

11:17 am - Walk to on-location office, then ledge

11:23 am - Staff fit me with a body harness

Jump #1 - Backwards (rated at the scariest level)

Watch video of jump #1

Jump #2 - Forward flip

Watch video of jump #2

Pay the piper for extra jump, DVD's and photos

1 pm - Shuttled back to downtown Queenstown

2 pm - Eat a triumphant lamb Fergburger

Later - Get a beer and quietly toast life, liberty, and the pursuit of scaring yourself to death for the amusement

Happy New Year

The photo isn't from my New Year's celebration (in Christchurch), however it fits the holiday well enough. I celebrated Stephanie's birthday in Franz Joseph along with a bunch of other STRAY bus backpackers.

Cheers to 2008!

Scenic Views of Queenstown

Life in Queenstown returned to normal the day after Christmas. Unlike probably any other town in the world, this meant a zillion tour operators began shuffling people to face their fears jumping the 130+ meter Nevis bungy (world's 2nd highest), skydiving from 15,000 feet, riding the world's highest swing (109 meters), and a variety of other crazy stunts.

I started the day with a Jetboating ride on the Shotover River which winds through the canyon by the same name. It was fun, though it didn't instill the fear of death in me. The boats are $250,000 each, and can go in water only a few inches deep. It's about as tame an experience as you'll find in Queenstown, though zipping by canyon walls and doing 360's was good fun. Between the in-your-face advertising, and countless stories from other travelers doing crazy activities, I signed up for one I knew would scare me (I hoped). It's like a rite of passage if you come to New Zealand.

With my death-defying activity for the next day booked, I spent the afternoon riding up the gondola to take in the scenic views of Queenstown and race the luges a few times. They're a bit silly, however they give people extra time to take in the scenery. Going under a small tunnel one time, a helicopter had landed on the helipad right above, with its rotors spinning as I zoomed beneath. Meanwhile, paragliders were taking customers off the mountain like clockwork. The Remarkables (mountain range around the lake) received a dusting of snow on Christmas night, which melted off by the end of the following day. I'm glad I grabbed a few photos of them first though. I'd love to see New Zealand in winter some day.

The Southern Alps, Lake Wanaka, and A Movie

Upon leaving Franz Joseph, we took in a scenic view of New Zealand's Southern Alps from Lake Mattheson. On a good day, you're suppose to be able to see a great reflection of the mountains (including Mt. Cook) because the lake is well protected. Unfortunately it was overcast when we were there.

Another scenic stop was at Roaring Billy Falls, where the photo opps were plentiful. Due to the mineral content of the glacier water, the river appeared a brilliant bluish-green. I'd never seen a river such a color before - quite amazing. It felt like we had the whole valley to ourselves (there were only 3 of us on the bus for this leg).

We reached the pretty town of Wanaka, set on a lake by the same name. It's a popular holiday destination for Kiwis, and I heard it was amazing in the winter too. I love the photo below. I can't imagine a skate park set in a more picturesque location.

As there isn't much going on in Wanaka at night, I took in a movie at the local theater. It was attached to a cafe which allowed you to bring beer, coffee, and food into the show. The seats were all recliners, sofas, and even a VW for that drive-in feel. The movie was Eastern Promises about the Russian mob in London.

Heli-Hiking Franz Josef Glacier in New Zealand

For months, I'd been looking forward to spending an entire day (six hours of ice time) hiking on the Franz Josef Glacier on the west coast of New Zealand's South Island. I intended to do the full-day hike.

Dave standing on Franz Josef Glacier in New Zealand. — Standing on my first glacier

However, about three days after I had completed the Tongariro Crossing (remember that 12-mile volcanic tramp?), a walking tour of Wellington, and various little bus-stop scenic walks, I started to feel pain in my left leg.

I couldn't quite place it-possibly a calf strain or something with my knee-but the pain differed from what I had earlier in the year. I was limping around quite a bit, though it was bearable.

On my deceptively long walk to the beach in Barrytown for the sunset, I felt a shooting pain that seriously concerned me. The ibuprofen pills and topical gel I'd been using didn't help much.

Given that the 4-hour half-day glacier hikes seemed unimpressive, I opted to upgrade to a heli-hike. You get a scenic helicopter ride up the glacier (higher than where the regular hikes go), hike around for 1.5 hours, and then get a ride back down.

I had been eying a helicopter ride for Queenstown, so I figured, why not kill two birds with one stone? I knew my left leg would thank me.

Helicopter Ride

The helicopter ride up was awe-inspiring. Fantastical. It was much smoother than I expected and not scary (I secured the front seat both ways!). My photos will not do the glacier justice.

Co-piloting the 'copter — Helicopter selfie in the front seat.

Helicopter departing Franz Josef Glacier. — Helicopter departing Franz Josef Glacier

Hiking the Glacier

Once we landed, we put on crampons and followed our glacier guide. Regardless of how you get on the glacier, the hikes are slow as the guides cut out steps and paths and scout the terrain.

Franz Josef is one of only three glaciers in the world that reside in a tropical environment. It was surreal to see it from afar, surrounded by rainforests.

It was also amazing to be on it and to see vegetation growing along the cliff walls as water cascaded over waterfalls hundreds of feet high.

The whole glacier felt alive, organically changing. Drips of meltwater formed little streams that turned into waterfalls as they descended deep holes in the ice.

I'm pretty sure those streams turned into full-flowing rivers deep down. We saw ice collapse higher up the glacier and tumble down (the hikes occur on the lower half, which moves more slowly and is thus presumably safer).

The Ride Down

The "whoa" at the end is when the pilot did a steep bank turn to the left as we crossed the ridge. I must get in a helicopter again!

Sailing South and Bone Carving

I paid for the good times in Wellington on my travel day to the South Island. I was up around 6am, took a 7am shuttle to the quay, and set sail aboard the 8:30am ferry to New Zealand's South Island.

The ferry ride was rather uneventful, and I spent a few minutes lounging in a variety of locations on the 5th and 7th level (the 8th was the top, and a bit too windy for relaxation). As we crossed the strait, it began to rain. By the time I got on the next STRAY bus, it was pouring. Ricky was my third driver, and turned out to be my favorite. His bus was consistently on time, he had a fun personality, and supplied good music (Pearl Jam, Sublime, and a few lesser known bands).

Our first stop was Abel Tasman park for 2 nights. We stayed on Old MacDonald's Farm (literally a working farm run by "Old" MacDonald). I was too tired to do the 5-hour park tramp, and didn't think the weather warranted a catamaran sail.

Our second stop was an old gold mining town, Barrytown, which is more of a rest stop when driving down the west coast. We stay at the main hotel/bar (which is literally the town), and usually everyone just drinks and cross-dresses (the photos on the wall bear evidence to this) because there's nothing to do. My bus only had 5 people, myself included, so we kept it to a walk down to the beach for the sunset.

The next morning, Katarin (Germany...again) and I did a bone carving activity. Working with beef shinbone is a lot like working with wood - at least the tools are the same. I was surprised how well my Fish Hook came out, and have been proudly wearing it as a necklace since. According to Maori mythology, the fish hook of Maui made from whalebone was used to haul up the North Island. It represents strength and determination and brings peace, prosperity and good health. It is also a mark of authority and leadership.

6 Reasons To Pack Light

It's one thing to say you'll pack light, and another to actually manage it once traveling. Just in case you need a few reminders why it pays to pack lighter....

1. Ease of movement - less physical/mental stress when you're on the move.

2. Less stuff means you're better able to account for what you do have (before leaving that bus terminal/hostel/couchsurf/etc).

3. It's easier to pack up in a dark hostel room at 5am for that early bus/ferry/flight without waking up the whole room.

4. You'll garner compliments and envy from the 99% of people with more stuff than you.

5. You can take your pack as carry-on luggage for flights - negating any concern about misdirected/lost luggage during air travel.

6. Leaving home with the bare minimum means you leave room to carry food or souvenirs without breaking your back (and spirit).

If I truly wanted to go superlight, I think I could drop down to just a medium size daypack, however I'm not *that* hardcore. Happy Packing!

Merry Christmas from Queenstown

I'm going to skip ahead for today so I can share some photos from my Christmas Eve in Queenstown.

I spent it getting to know Nadia (Switz), Vivian (Holland), and Vanessa (Germany). For dinner, we picked Chico's, an old, low key, candlelit restaurant.

Plus a guy outside had offered us a coupon for a free beer or wine with dinner!

I chose the night as a good time to order a New Zealand Rack of Lamb (served on pumpkin mash w/veggies, potatoes, and a sauce with mint and redcurrant).

We skipped dessert, and walked briefly around the downtown area however we all agreed it was quieter than expected.

Judging from the supermarket earlier, most Kiwis were at home, and backpackers may have stocked up on beer for their dorm rooms.

We had purchased $5 NZD passes to get into the only bar open past 12am - Global Bar.

I thought it'd be big, but it wasn't, though quite lively. The live music ended around 1 am, and a DJ took over, blasting out a weird mix of music from "Footloose" to The Pogues' "Fairytale of NYC."

Around 2:15 am, I called it quits, though I had to try my first Fergburger before going to sleep.

They were blaring music and had a steady queue on their doorstep. I had heard very good things about this burger joint after having only been in Queenstown a few hours.

It didn't disappoint, though it's surreal to be munching on a giant cheeseburger while under a full moon half a world away from home on Christmas morning.

It's now about 2:30 pm on Christmas Day here, and neither I nor any of the four people in my dorm were in a hurry to get out of bed today.

Despite the hostel's big Orphans Christmas lunch set to start in 30 minutes, there's no place like home.

Trivia Night Pays Off With Champagne and Beer

I met up with Justin in the common room of the Wellywood hostel in Wellington. The night was already set for us - Trivia Night at a local bar. His team had placed first the week before, so I was just hoping to make a small contribution to their defending effort.

First off, we had a dare to settle, and Justin made good on it as you can see in the photo above. He and his friends (Mark from England, Justin/James from Ireland) were a riot, and I'm glad I got the chance to hang out with them all.

On to the trivia - Christmas themed questions. I pulled out a few right answers "fox" "Serendipity" and "Jingle All the Way" however Justin and John were the trivia ninjas, helping the team to pull out a second place showing, plus a bonus question. The reward? A $50 bar tab that had to be used that night, and a bottle of champagne (which attracted a newly minted flight attendant in a red dress)!

My favorite moment was toward the end, at a different bar, around midnight, when we all sang along to Queen's "Bohemian Rhapsody." Priceless.

Random Thoughts in Wellington

2:38pm, December 17, 2007

Sitting outside Mac's Brewery on a Monday afternoon enjoying a brew - watching the clouds quickly drift by - "Stand By Me" playing over the stereo - winds whipped up - I'm the luckiest son of a gun - feeling like I pulled off The Great Rock 'n Roll Swindle (a la The Sex Pistols). Living a dream is absurdly beautiful. Unbelievable. Fantastic. Amazing. "Sweet as" (New Zealand slang). Every day is an adventure - new scenes, sights, characters, emotions. I feel truly alive. Young skateboarders build their skills like I use to do.

Te Papa museum is a stunning architectural sight - with sections of roof echoing the curves of clouds above and waves below. Looks like I'll finish that pint after all. Brilliant!

Nerd Alert: Let's Get Logistical

Now that I've been gone about 3 weeks, I'm getting the hang of using the various Internet cafes and access points to keep my blog updated. Internet access in French Polynesia and New Zealand has been ubiquitous - every place I've stayed either had it, or had it within a short walk. The question is really how much you want to pay for it. The more remote the location, or the less touristy, the more it will likely cost you (and the slower the connection is likely to be). Since I didn't bring a laptop, I'm subject to my lack of discipline.

At any rate, time is money, and in New Zealand, I'm probably paying about $3/hour on average, whether in large Auckland, capital Wellington, or southerly Franz Joseph Glacier. Some computers are coin-operated, some are based on buying time via a communications company (like "Global Gossip" where you get a unique PIN #), and some are old fashioned timers on a computer (my preferred method).

The views vary from dark and dreary to my favorite so far - the driver's seat of a converted bus facing Franz Joseph Glacier (the clouds are literally parting now so I can see a giant glacier on top of a mountain while it's like 70 degrees out and we're surrounded by rainforest - simply stunning).

Most computers have 1-2 USB ports available in the front, which I stick my 1gb flash memory card into so I can ensure secure access to my accounts, and make use of my customized Firefox browser (makes Internet time more efficient). The other port is handy for using a card reader to upload my photos to Flickr. I need to get better about uploading fewer photos, and shorter videos, as the time seems to drag on, though I'm usually multi-tasking.

Skype is pre-loaded on most computers and has been a breeze to use. I put $10 on it so I could call my parents on their home phone. Just 2 cents a minute. Brilliant!

That's about all I can think of for now - please leave a comment if you have any questions.

What I'm Eating (Might Surprise You)

My diet in New Zealand has been an odd combination of food. Most eaten items would have to include sausages, cheeseburgers, ham and cheese sandwiches, pizza, fresh muffins, Cadbury chocolate bars (soooo good), granola bars (specifically a brand called "Bumper Bars"), bananas, ice cream bars/pops, and biscuits (ie. cookies). Not too exciting! Still, there seems to be a demand to see more food photos, so here you go!

As you'll note in the latter one, I've started to delve into self-catering via supermarket shopping. The backpacker buses stop at markets and ATM's daily, and most people eat this way to save money. I realized I need to join them if I'm to be making this travel thing a long term arrangement. So while I tried to avoid instant noodles while saving for my RTW trip, I now find myself eating them abroad. At least the views are great. :)

One last note on food here. Lots of things are marketed as "energy" including the chocolate bars. It seems a bit misleading. Sure, chocolate is a good source of quick energy, however it'll also turn me into a chubby monster if I keep eating it every day. The nutrition labels also list the energy measurements on the food and drinks, not that I really know what it means, other than it seems akin to calories.

Tramping the Tongariro Crossing in New Zealand

A rainbow greets us at the start of the crossing.

I awoke from my slumber in Taupo to a chilly, cloudy, rainy morning.

As I peered out the hostel window, I could barely see across the lake to the volcanoes I was hoping to climb.

The Tongariro National Park is a World Heritage site, and home to New Zealand's number one day hike (tramp) - the Tongariro Crossing.

It's an 11-mile (18km) hike between two active volcanoes, one of them being the infamous Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings fame (actual name = Mt Ngauruhoe).

The crossing is up the middle of this photo.

I knew I could do the hike, however, the numbers were a bit imposing.

Eleven miles up the side of a volcano, topping out at 5,700 vertical feet, which was far higher than I'd been before.

The average time for the hike was 6-7 hours.

I packed 2 liters of water, nuts, plenty of chocolate (for fast energy), granola bars, jerky, and a fresh chicken satay sandwich.

I rented a fleece, wool mittens, and a hat for $5 NZD.

I also wore my windbreaker (for rain), pants, Smart Wool socks, and hiking boots (though others were just fine in sneakers and shorts).

Karen and I grab a bite at the end of a climb up 1,800 vertical feet (crater behind).

The weather remained overcast most of the hike and only started to clear once we had reached the backside of the crossing.

My favorite part was walking along a ridgeline between two craters, watching the clouds whip up one side and flow over to the other.

While we missed out on what are some fantastic views of the countryside, it was hard to deny the ambiance created by the mist and clouds as we crossed volcanic terrain and craters.

I completed the crossing in 5.5 hours, mostly while getting to know Karen from England.

Afterward, I felt an amazing sense of accomplishment, and while my legs were sore for a few days, it was worth it.

Walking the cloudy ridge line between two craters — Walking the cloudy ridgeline between two craters.

For those who were ambitious, an 8 am start would allow time for the three-hour return trip to the summit of Mt. Doom, though we ran into two guys who had done it and said they couldn't see a thing, and it was quite hard to scramble up the volcanic scree to the crater.

I have a good feeling about bagging a summit or two at some point further along in my trip!

Video Atop Tongariro Crossing

Video: Traditional Maori Haka Dance

During our third night of the bus tour, we stopped in Maketu for a bit of traditional Maori culture.

We were entertained by a family's music/dance show, and then the guys were invited to learn the Haka dance, while the ladies learned another type of dance.

The lack of shirts was mandatory and it's clear we're all in need of a good tan!

After the show, we all grabbed mattresses and blankets and had a big slumber party in the large entertainment space.

Joining the Backpacker Bus Brigade

After paying a hefty sum for a bus tour with the STRAY company (new kid on the block to The Kiwi Experience), I almost missed my first departure. Yes, myself and 2 others were waiting in the right spot outside the hostel when time slowly ticked away and after more than an hour, I called the bus company which confirmed we must've been blind or deaf to have missed it, and said we were out of luck since it had left town. Lucky for me, Demetrius from Greece was a good complainer because the bus ended up coming back for us and we joined as planned that day.

I've never really toured a country by bus, and at times I feel like a Japanese tourist (pardon the stereotype), getting on and off at preordained scenic outlooks and large sculptured kiwis for photo-ops. At the same time, I've met some really cool people the first week, and the trips are efficient if nothing else. In fact, the country goes by in a bit of a blur if you don't take more than a night in any of the towns along the way.

I'll let a few more of my photos do the talking (see everything I've uploaded so far on the Photos page).

My Packing List Featured On Gadling.com

Travel blog Gadling has featured my packing list! Check it out, if you haven't already through this blog.

So far, I'm quite pleased with the things I brought, and hope to share some feedback on what's working especially well.

Dare #1 - Completed - Nose Pick @ Sky Tower

#1 - From Justin: I would come up with a sweet dare for you, except that, like you are soon to feel, my bank account has been poured into a not-too-narrow funnel. But if you pick your nose in front of the Sky Tower, I'll buy you a beer.

Reward: a tasty beer in New Zealand

____________________________________

I'll see you in a few days to collect on this one! :)

Winning my first dare - Auckland, New Zealand

Canyoning - Abseils, Jumps, and Chutes

I'd wanted to go canyoning since I first learned about it in 2005 while planning a trip to Costa Rica. It consists of maneuvering down a river canyon by combination of hiking, sliding down natural rock chutes, jumping off cliffs and waterfalls, and abseiling (rappelling).

The Rough Guide referenced canyons a 40-minute drive west of Auckland, so I made that adventure my first in New Zealand.

There were 6 of us on the day trip, and our pretty guide was Connie from Chile, who'd been working in New Zealand for 9 months. She had a great sense of humor, and I felt quite comfortable entrusting my life and body to her.

After picking up wet suits, harnesses and ropes from a local staging area, we hiked 45 minutes to the top of the canyon. It was a hard slog up muddy, steep trails. I had volunteered to carry a bag of ropes, which weighed heavily on me after only a few minutes!

We received brief instructions on abseiling, and we were off to our first little waterfall leap - about 5 feet. We were immediately offered a jump twice as high into the same pool, and everyone accepted (I was joined by 2 Australian guys, and a couple from San Francisco).

Everyone did every jump and suggestion by our guide the whole time, which was cool.

Our highest jump was probably about 20 feet, a good 10 feet fewer than my personal high of 30 in Costa Rica, so I felt fairly comfortable doing all the leaps.

Our first abseil was the highest - about 60 feet in my judgment, with the water falling atop our heads near the top. It was much tougher than a regular abseil (like I did in Belize last year - into a sinkhole) because the water is in your face, and the rocks are really slippery.

Connie lowered us over one large waterfall which was my favorite, as we could just enjoy the view. We did a second abseil ourselves toward the end, which was a bit slippery, though easier since the waterfall wasn't so violent.

Our lunch was seemingly small, however I gobbled up chocolate, 2 salami sandwiches and a granola bar in no time. We had lunch at the base of the first waterfall we abseiled, and there were freshwater eels there.

The rock slides were my least favorite, perhaps because we were challenged to go down 2 of 3 backwards, and head first! Scarier than the jumps by far! I survived though, and we had another 30-45 minute hike downstream and out to the minibus.

It was as adventurous a guided activity as you can probably find. Canyonz is the only tour operator in that canyon, and I didn't see another soul from beyond our group the whole time from hike in to hike out.

At times, I felt a bit like Bear Grylls, though I'm horrible with impersonations, his commentary and body movements were in my minds as I leaped and hopped, and scurried up slippery mud/rock embankments.

The whole tour lasted 8.5 hours from pick-up to drop-off in Auckland. We were in the (cold) water for about 5-6 of those hours, and despite the rain and clouds, the views were fantastic. It was my first time in a wet suit - not comfortable - though I got use to it after awhile. The cost was about $130, and in my opinion, worth every cent!

Goodbye Tahiti, Hello New Zealand

I spent my last night in Tahiti couchsurfing with Sam, though he actually gave me a spare bedroom to myself. With the open windows all the time, rather large roaches are not uncommon. Sam managed to squash two, and I surely injured a third before going to sleep. I didn't sleep much though being that it was hot, there were big bugs (at least in my mind) running free, and I had to get up at 4:45am for the flight to New Zealand.

We got to the airport at 5:45am, about 2 hours early, though Air Tahiti Nui recommends 3 hours. I was the 6th to last person in line - a line I waited in for 1.5 hours. I barely made my flight, so going forward, I'll always ensure I get to the airport as early as recommended, even if it means waking up at ungodly hours (while still being respectful of my host if I have a free ride). I ran into Lucy again - her initial flight had been canceled and delayed 2 days. The flight was rather uneventful. If I haven't mentioned it, Air Tahiti Nui's service has been great, and I've enjoyed the food too.

I got myself to the Auckland Central Backpackers (hostel) quite easily via Airbus, and was immediately overwhelmed by the signs and ads. It's a hostel on steroids - big Internet cafe, travel booking service, lounges, several stories of dorms and rooms, backpackers everywhere. I didn't expect to feel overwhelmed entering an English-speaking country, and found myself in bed during the afternoon. I remembered doing this in Tahiti - it took me about 48 hours to get past the jetlag. I felt a bit off not going out on a Friday night in New Zealand's biggest city, however I quickly succumbed to sleep.

Saturday was marked by a short walk to the Sky Tower, and little walks broken up by naps. I also decided on the backpacker bus trip I was going to take - STRAY from Auckland to Christchurch. It's secondary to the bigger one - The Kiwi Experience - however the latter is supposedly more party-oriented, and I wasn't especially interested in that type of atmosphere. STRAY seemed to get off the beaten track a bit more too. I honestly didn't account for the cost of transport around this fine country. The bus trip I booked is about the cheapest for both islands, between the two big companies, and ran me about $500 USD.

Driving a VW Down a Tahitian Mountain

There are two things I tend to avoid during international travel - public phones and driving. I managed the public phones in Tahiti well enough (after that first mishap) and was surprised with a crazy drive on my last night.

Sam picked me up about 2 hours after my ferry from Moorea landed. During that time, I got a veal dinner at the local square filled with roulettes (food vans). Yes, a cut off the animal in the photo is what I ate (with french fries). Sam had to transport his motorcycle from his old house to his new, and he needed me to drive his VW Polo. We headed out of Papeete toward his old house, in the dark, after an hour's rain. The highway part was fine, however we then pulled onto a local road that began to climb up what felt like a mountain. I mean I could feel my ears pop on the way up. He swerved all over to miss potholes (one of the reasons he moved), and broken branches and leaves were strewn all over the wet asphalt. We then hit a stretch of dirt road, where the street lights stopped, and he navigated multiple hairpin turns. Finally, we reached the apex of whatever we were climbing, whereupon there was a house with a view of the distant twinkling lights below.

By the time we reached the top, my nerves were going AWOL. I took a pee down the driveway a bit, and tried not to picture the precipitous cliffs that lined the road I was about to head down (at night, after the rain remember). Sam seemed confident in me, and I'd be driving an automatic VW, so I tried to take some comfort in those facts. I put the car in 1st gear, and off we went.

I'm sure I was hunched over the wheel like a 90-year old grandmother. Did I mention there were no lights during the scariest muddy section? I let the car go slowly down, braking softly for fear of skidding off the mountain. Sam went slow, and after passing a few of the hairpin turns, I started to breathe a little easier. I reminded myself not to get overconfident because even after we hit the lit asphalt section, the road was still wet, and there were crazy dogs that ran out at us at one point. Sam pulled up to me and gave me his cell phone in case it rained, which meant if we lost each other, I was in a bit of trouble! A few minutes later he pulled up and gave me his left side mirror which accidentally broke off. I had to laugh at that point. We breezed down the highway, through quiet Pape'ete, and onward to his new home.

Sometimes the adventures come without warning, and without cost!

Dare #2 - Completed - Boy Meets Girl

Dare # 2 -

From RBL: I dare you to convince single women (aged 18-35) to have their photo taken with their hand on your shoulder.

Reward: $5 per woman. No limit.

__________________________________

It didn't take long for me to complete my first dare (technically the second submitted). I met Christina and Alexandra on Moorea, and as we got to know each other, the cameras came out. They tipped me off to a fantastic activity in South Africa - something I would've never thought possible for tourists. I'll leave it as a surprise!

Please keep the dares coming!

Moorea: Paradise Island in French Polynesia

As you saw from the previous photos, Moorea is a little bit of paradise in the South Pacific. It's a short 20-minute ferry ride west of Tahiti.

I want to try and catch you up now that I'm in New Zealand and internet access is cheap by comparison.

I spent 3 nights on Moorea and lucked out with a private dorm room the whole time.

Camping Chez Nelson was set on a fantastic stretch of (rare) beach along a beautiful section of the blue lagoon which encircles the entire island.

My first night I happened upon Lucy from New Zealand. We had first met on the brightly lit airport terminal bus at an ungodly hour like 1 am in Los Angeles.

Serendipity had her staying in the dorm next to me, along with Madeline from Scotland, who was working on her first novel and planned to finish it up with a 3-month stint on Fiji.

We dined on (tiny) lobsters and had an all-around great time together.

The next day it rained (a lot) and I said a wet goodbye to Lucy and Madeline, and let the day pass slowly.

Later, I met 4 new arrivals - Christina and Alexandra from Colorado and Alex and Robert from Germany.

I had taken Benadryl due to what appeared to be a swelling bug bite, though it unintentionally drugged me to sleep for 11 hours.

The next day I went snorkeling on the northern side of the island - which gave me a whole new appreciation for the views of the green mountains and wispy clouds.

Even when it rained, the views above and below water were perfect. We saw stingrays, blacktip sharks, tiki sculptures carved underwater out of coral, and plenty of pretty fish.

That third night I played a card game - Phase 10 - with my four new friends until we retired a little after 10 pm (late by Polynesian standards).

The next day I awoke, ate some more crepes with Alexandra, took the bus back to the ferry, and the ferry back to Tahiti.

See all my French Polynesia photos.

To be continued....

___________________________

Bonus Video - I couldn't resist this monologue, though the turquoise waters don't show up as well due to the clouds.

Tahitian postcard goes to the first person to peg where I got the quote. While not original, it perfectly described my feelings at the start of this journey. :)

« Previous Page