Blog - Go Backpacking

Gili Trawangan - Welcome To My Paradise

Gili Trawangan is a small island off the coast of Lombok, an island the size of Bali just to it's east. There are many small islands (gili's as they're called) around Lombok, however Gili Trawangan is the most popular one. It is 8 km in circumference, and there are no motorbikes or cars, just carts drawn by small horses, bicycles, and foot power. There are no police on the island, and drugs are widely available (especially, magic mushrooms and marijuana). It reminded me of Caye Caulker, Belize. The small community seems to police itself, as a local told me the punishment for theft is a potential beat-down, followed by banishment from the island.

Most of the development is on the east side of the island, including all the dive shops which include attached restaurants and pools for those learning to SCUBA dive. I was keen to stay at Beachwind Bungalows as it was right across the "street" from the water. Linus joined me and we continued to share a double room.

It's not quick or easy to go from Kuta on Bali to the Gili Islands off Lombok. The regular (cheap) way takes a full day of travel leaving at 6am from Kuta, minus any unforeseen delays. As a result, it is much less visited then Kuta, and it felt as though we had the island to ourselves (this was especially the case as it was the rainy season). There were just enough people to keep my week-long stay fun and interesting.

World's Most Expensive Mosquito Coils

Linus and I were picked up by our shuttle in Sengiggi, and whisked north along the coast to a staging area 200 meters away from the beach where we'd be boarding a small wooden boat to ferry us over to Gili Trawangan.

As we sat around, the "boatman" who would take us the rest of the way was chatting. Among other things, he mentioned mosquito coils. I knew what they were, though never bought them myself, so I had no sense of their regular cost. The boatman said they were not available on the island. I'm all about avoiding malaria and dengue fever, which meant I was about to make yet another foolish mistake.

The Lonely Planet speaks poorly of the port area, and it's a well deserved reputation. The people are very aggressive about picking up your bags and carrying them to the boat without your approval, in search of a tip. In fact, you had to cross a small stream to get to the boat and two guys literally carried Linus over it so he wouldn't get wet. It's not like he wanted them to be doing it either!

Back to the mosquito coils, the quoted price for a box of 10, with lighter, was 95,000 rupiah (about $10). Being that we were in transit, and I was concerned about the hijacking of my stuff as it was, I paid the piper. Supposedly my quoted price was lower than what he asked of the Spanish. The boatman also reassured me that it was the "regular" price.

A 40-minute ride in a long wooden boat with 20-25 people brought us to our island destination, where mosquito coils were available in every shop for the local price of about 30 cents. The screens were so good on the two rooms I had during the stay, I only used one full mosquito coil.

The lesson I learned on this one was to think of products and services in terms of the price locals would have to pay.

Heading East to Lombok

It felt fortuitous to be leaving Kuta, Bali the morning after the theft incident. Leaving for a new destination always feels empowering, and I was heading to Lombok to experience the potential tropical island paradise I had pictured when coming to Bali.

The first person on the shuttle after me was a guy named Linus. You'll hear more about him soon. At this point, he just happened to be the first person I could share my experience with from the prior night. I let it out, which was cathartic.

Soon after, an American couple joined the shuttle, and I'd end up speaking with the guy much of the ride. They were from North Carolina, and would work in bars to save up for 3-month trips in the off-season (winter). I've met so few Americans, I find myself jumping at the chance to talk to them when they present themselves.

After the shuttle to the ferry port in East Bali, we boarded the ferry to Lombok. It was a slow beast of a ferry, taking 5 hours to make the crossing. The lower levels were hot, humid, soon filled with smoke, and all around gross. Most of the backpackers ended up on the top deck with the fresh air.

Linus

Along the way, I got to know Linus a little better. He was a dive instructor originally from Sweden, who worked for 1.5 years on a popular island in Thailand. He was currently touring Indonesia, before a short stop back in Thailand on his way back to a job in Norway. He was carrying all of his own dive gear with him - about 50lbs worth I believe.

Upon arrival in Lombok, night had fallen. We hopped on another shuttle that was awaiting us, and careened north toward our stop for the night - Sengiggi (a popular resort town on the west coast of Lombok). The area felt very dark, except for the bright white headlights of oncoming traffic. Once we were dropped in Sengiggi, Linus and I decided to share a sparse room at the Hotel Elen across the street from our pick-up point in the morning. We went out for dinner, however after looking around, there didn't seem to be much happening in Sengiggi.

Scooter-Born Prostitute Rips Me Off

The Lonely Planet warns readers against prostitutes that ride around on scooters and hassle men walking around alone at night. It specifically warned of one gang (alley), so I made it a point to stay clear of it. At the same time, I had little sense of how this "danger and annoyance" might present itself. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way.

I had found what I thought to be the fastest internet cafe in Kuta, so after being frustrated with slow speeds elsewhere, I decided to spend several hours at it before I left Bali for Lombok the next morning. My accommodation was about a 7-10 minute walk through a few winding gangs. I'd done it several times during the day, and knew where I was going, and how long it'd take.

I left the internet cafe around midnight, and the gang it was on had restaurants so it was still a bit lively. I made my first turn onto the second gang and noticed the shops that had been open earlier were closed, the street was rather empty, and not well lit. I puffed my chest out, and continued to walk at a quick pace trying to look imposing.

A woman on a scooter came up from behind me, and parked it about 15 feet in front of me, in a dark shadowy area. She got off the scooter, and as I walked past her, she grabbed me below the belt, which of course startled the hell out of me. At the same time, she was soliciting me, and I was saying "no, no, no" as I kept walking. She went back to her bike, drove past me again saying "bye, bye" and then stopped another 15 feet ahead of me.

This time, she motioned to a pitch-black alley, and as I walked by, she grabbed my right arm tightly, and went below the belt again. I firmly told her to "get off me" and pushed her away. She got on her bike again, rode past me saying "bye, bye" and this time she kept going.

It wasn't until 2-3 minutes later when I was getting they key to my room out that I realized the 70,000 rupiah (about $8) in my back pocket was gone. My money belt finally showed it's worth, as it contained much more cash, credit cards, and my passport. I was thankful she didn't try to take my backpack which had my camera and mp3 player, however I was angry at the woman for what she did, and myself for being too complacent. Looking back, as you can see from the photos, I had nowhere to go except forwards or backwards, and she surely knew that from past thefts of this nature.

I considered reporting the incident to the tourist police the next day, however after hearing corruption stories about them, and thinking it'd do little good since I couldn't see the woman's face (she was wearing a helmet, besides the fact that it was pitch black), I decided to carry on to Lombok the next morning.

3 Travel Bloggers Survive Torrential Rains

I found nomad4ever.com in early 2007, when I first entered the world of travel blogging. The man behind the scenes is Chris, a German expat who retired in his early 30's to live the good life in Southeast Asia. After a stint in Thailand, he moved to Bali where he's been living for about a year with his girlfriend.

Gary from Everything-Everywhere.com responded to a post I made on BootsNAll, and since we would be in Bali at the same time, arranged to meet up. Gary is about 12 months into a 3-year trip around the world. He thoroughly covered the tiny island nations of the Pacific, and is now tackling Indonesia and Australia. Check out the Google map on his blog if you can - very cool!

I hung out with Gary for a day before all three of us met up at the Kuta Food Court across from the beach. The food was good, and the conversation fantastic. Three guys talking about the life on Bali, Indonesia, various cultures, working life...and the desire to abandon it for travel!

Before anyone got to the food court, torrential rains began and it guaranteed we'd be almost the only patrons. We didn't care though - just kept talking and drinking Bintang beers as the staff used a broom to push the rain water off of the tarp above us every 10 minutes.

Exploring Inland Bali

After getting a feel for life in Kuta, I decided to bite the bullet and venture inland for a day-long tour. Believe me, it was hard after all those spa treatments to tear myself away for some sight-seeing, however I knew it had to be done.

Our itinerary was a bit flexible, however the first stop was a cheesy display of wax drawings on tourist shirts. The Asian tour buses seemed to appreciate it though. Luckily, the next stop was more my style, though surprisingly so. We went to a silver shop, where I was about the only customer. After a short talk about silversmithing, I browsed the jewelery cases until I came upon some rings which caught my eye. The salesperson clearly told me I could negotiate down from the list price, and my natural indecisiveness seems to work wonders because he brought the price down by 50% to about $17 for a sterling silver ring. The middle section rotates, so I spent the rest of the day spinning it around incessantly.

The third stop was unexpected - The Bali Zoo. At $18, I was a bit unsure of whether it'd be worth it. As I walked through the entry, I quickly realized this was a zoo unlike any other I'd been to. Music was playing, gigantic (probably man-eating) spiders were in webs near exhibits and under some paths. On two occasions I was quickly given a bird or lizard (or both) for photo-ops. I saw my first albino Bengal tiger and Komodo dragons, along with a few African lions, and Javanese spotted and black leopards. Tons of monkeys and exotic birds, and a few snakes rounded out the highlights. The zoo was private, and all the animals looked healthy and well-taken care of.

The blazing heat and muggy humidity soon gave way to massive rains. Streets flooded with water, debris, and trash. Spouts from homes and temples along the roads spit out tons of water. My driver and just about everyone else slowed down accordingly.

As the rain stopped, we emerged near the north of Bali to a stunning scene - two massive and misty volcanoes around a lake, on the opposite end of a lush, green valley with little tropical birds flittering around. My lunch stop was an Indian restaurant perched atop a ridge line (amongst many others with the same view). I ate my money's worth at the buffet, and we were off to a nearby temple.

I had to rent a sarong to access the bathing area of the temple. My driver/guide joined me as I knew I'd have questions. He said people go to the temple daily, and even bathe in it daily, as the water is thought to be coming from the Gods. I thought that was a rather impressive act of devotion.

Though my driver offered to stop at another one or two places, by mid-afternoon, I was ready to head back south to Kuta and unwind - culture, volcanoes, and giant Indonesian spiders now checked off my "to-do" list for the 3-week stay.

The Good Life - Massages and Spa Treatments

The good life for Westerners in Bali includes massages and spa treatments, and I was ready to feed the local economy with my hard earned greenbacks. My daily schedule in Kuta was rather simple:

sleep in
enjoy free breakfast at accommodation (very common offering - usually some combination of eggs, toast, pancakes, coffee/tea/juice)
use internet
spa treatment (something different each day - haircut, manicure, pedicure, aromatherapy massage)

traditional Indonesian food for lunch at restaurant for $2
hang out, siesta, nap, shop
go to beach if it looks like a good night for a sunset (tons of locals and tourists alike would head that way once the sun headed down, and it became cooler out)
eat a $2-3 dinner, with $1-2 drinks optional (while watching a movie if eating at Swell - I caught 40 Year Old Virgin, Anchorman, and Dodgeball)
sleep

I learned a difference of only a dollar or two can really change the quality of the massages. The cheapest are offered by the ladies on the beach, who can be rather aggressive. Those are a negotiable $5/hour. The beach is too hot, sandy, and hot for me to enjoy it though. I had one by a pool for about $5, which was OK, however I decided to take it up a notch and go indoors.

The little menu above was for a place in the shopping area known as Kuta Square that struck a good balance between cost and quality. Air conditioning, aromatherapy, candles, and a comfortable table were well worth the extra few dollars ($7-8 total).

Yes, you can live like a King (or Queen) in Bali if you have a bit of money. If costs remain so low, I may need to build a spa component into my Asian budget!

Bali Living 101

By my second and third days in Bali, I was starting to fall for the place.

I figured out the various ways to escape the street vendors and intense mid-day heat - hanging out in your accommodation which would have plenty of shade around either a pool or garden and ducking into restaurants and internet cafes.

I also walked past them with purpose and found I was hassled less.

I learned that around 6pm, close to sunset, locals and tourists alike head to the beach to watch the sun set over the Indian Ocean.

Surfers catch their last waves while little kids play on the beach.

Locals start up soccer games or try to entice the Western women to knock a volleyball around with them.

The night I snapped the sunset photo above, the beach was also chock full of Indian sailors in their white uniforms (3 battleships were docked for 5 days). I'd never seen a scene like it.

I could buy a filling lunch or dinner for the cost of a Cadbury chocolate bar in Australia.

I could buy snacks without feeling like I'm breaking my budget (not that I worried too much about that when it actually counted!).

I admired the devotion and religious practices of the local Hindu population.

Their offerings to the Gods were everywhere.

They were placed outside shops, in alleys, in cars, on motorbikes, in front of statues, and often with incense which wafted throughout the air.

Bali is filled with great surf spots, and Kuta and nearby Legian beaches are considered great beginner breaks.

People from around the world come here to surf, and I just didn't have the energy give it another go.

My plan in Bali is to r-e-l-a-x. Luckily I'm not alone!

Day 1 In Bali - Sensory Overload

I slept nicely my first night in Bali, the fan on full blast to keep me cool and swoosh away any pesky mosquitoes. I washed up in my private bathroom, a much-needed change from the communal hostel showers where I'd have time-release controls, or be subject to hearing guys hawk loogies in stereo (seriously gross habit!). My fancy bungalow even had warm water.

I had read The Lonely Planet on the way to Bali, yet I didn't manage to put one bit of its advice into practice on my first day. Everyone comes to Kuta to make money from the tourists, and it took the first day for me to realize a few things (which again, The Lonely Planet clearly outlined):

Don't look in a cheap shop if you have no intention to buy something. In fact, don't even make eye contact with the guy sitting outside of it. And when he calls to you "hey boss" or gestures to you, don't slow down! Heck, don't even say "no thank you" or turn your neck - it'll wear you out by day's end.
There are far too many people trying to offer "transport" in cars, taxis and on motorbikes. Haggling for transport, like a lot in Bali, is expected so brush up on your skills and be ready to walk away.
It's really, really, really hot during the day, so take it slow. Even slower. No one will care if you don't move more than 100-feet in a day. Just check out the locals - they're all sitting around too.

If you go to the beach, expect garbage to wash up during the rainy season (which includes my time here in February). If your accommodation has a pool, use it instead of the ocean. Walk past the area with palms where all the hawkers will try to sell you stuff. If you buy something from one, say a small pineapple, then you'll soon be surrounded by people trying to sell you everything from a drink, to wooden Buddha sculptures, cheap blow guns, hand-carved chess boards, and massages. It gets annoying fast, so head closer to the water where it seems they're not allowed.
School kids on break from Java will have assignments to practice their English with the tourists. It made me feel like a rock star - being asked for my signature, photo, and interviewed about where I'm from, etc.
Everything is as cheap as I was lead to believe - sweet as!

My first Balinese meal was at an upper-scale restaurant across from Kuta Beach. I had fettucine with crab in a white wine sauce as my main, and white chocolate creme brulee for desert, along with tea. The meal totaled about $15, easily half the cost of what I'd have to pay in a Western restaurant for food of the same quality!

I struck up a conversation with a couple of Swedish girls in the bungalow next to me, inviting them over for a beer (Bintang beer really is $1 a bottle!). The next time I saw them they were in the pool as evening set in, and I had to join them. A few bats were flying overhead, however we otherwise had the place to ourselves.

We went out to dinner after the swim, and I ordered Nasi Goreng for the first time. It was love at first bite! It's a traditional Indonesian rice dish served in various ways (such as with seafood or chicken).

Welcome To Kuta

My flight arrived in Bali late at night which was not my preference. After clearing customs, I picked up my bag and made a quick stop in the bathroom which was opposite a prayer room. It was small, with both a Western and Eastern (ie. squat) toilet. The urinal had a white flower petal on it. Clearly I was in new territory.

I grabbed some cash from an ATM in the terminal and headed out into the night. Once past the ubiquitous crowd of people that gathers outside smaller foreign airports, I hit the taxi drivers. I took my third offer, which was the same as my first, and none were in the mood to bargain with me. I wasn't in the mood to haggle so I agreed to pay the $7-8 or so for the drive to nearby Kuta.

Kuta Beach is *the* tourist spot in Bali, and the temporary home to many a surfer and backpacker. It is also the sight of the two terrorist bombings, most notably the one that killed over 200 people in a club back in 2002. I can still remember the image on the news of the building on fire, and I was a bit anxious about the safety situation prior to arrival.

As my taxi driver sped toward my bungalow accommodation for the next 2 nights (right across the street from the beach), I tried to take in all the bars and restaurants lit up at night, and the constant buzz of motorbikes whizzing past us on both sides. The ground was wet so I could tell it had just rained. My taxi driver was kind enough to offer to arrange a "complete" massage, which I was kind enough to decline. He dropped me at my accommodation, and I was met by the security guard as the reception office had closed.

The security guard showed me to my room, and along the way, offered to arrange a "complete massage" or a program (ie. tour package). After dropping my stuff off at my nicely decorated room, I walked next door to the "K" convenience store to get some water. Along the 10-feet of sidewalk to get there, I was offered drugs. I was getting quite the introduction to Bali. The convenience store was blasting Guns 'N Roses. They were out of the cheap 1.5 liter bottles of water (about $0.30 apiece), so I had to cough up a bit more than $1 for Evian. I returned back to my room, and was out like a light.

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PS - for all those that voted for me to splurge on a nicer than normal accommodation since reaching the 200 subscriber mark, this was it! And it only cost $24/night, including free breakfast, towel, soap, and toilet paper!

...And I'm Off To Bali

Journal Entry from January 29 @ 5:41pm -
I'm at the airport ready to board a 6-hour flight to Bali. The Lonely Planet speaks of $5 massages on the beach, personal bungalows with ocean views, $1 meals and beers, and beautiful sunsets with friendly travelers and locals alike. Sounds perfect!

I'll miss the cappuccinos, cafes, accents, and ease of travel in Australia. It has come at a high cost ($$$). In exchange, I always had Western toilets, relatively safe surroundings, and most of the comforts of home. I think I'm not yet prepared for the culture shock I'm about to experience in Indonesia. Being polite (as usual) should help cover for any blatant ignorance of local customs - at least until I get my bearings. And then it will be time to leave again.

Staying for short periods in these various countries is good practice for non-attachment to say the least. I've found my final thoughts on each country help me deal better with the departures.

Final Thoughts: Australia

Kangaroos, surfing, and the Outback were all I knew of Australia before I visited in January. I quietly hoped it would surprise me, and as you'll see below, there were no shortage of favorite moments!

Highlights -

couchsurfing with Ben in Brisban
doing nothing in Byron Bay (and watching Green Street Hooligans)
4x4 safari on Fraser Island (and swimming in freshwater Lake McKenzie)
surf lesson in Agnes Water (and watching Bra Boys)
impromptu porch party at Magnum Backpackers in Airlie Beach
sailing the Whitsundays (and getting to steer the yacht)
first SCUBA dive
staying with Michael and Ann in Trinity Beach
hugging a Koala Bear at the Cairns Tropical Zoo
snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef
Sydney FC vs. Melbourne Victory soccer match at Aussie Stadium
sipping wine outside the Opera House with the Germans - Andy and Constantine
the views at Bondi Beach (and the cliff walk to Coogee)
couchsurfing with Bonnie, Tom, and Eliza in Newtown
hot milk chocolate at the Lindt chocolat cafe
watching the 2008 Australian Open Men's Singles Final on the jumbo screen outside Rod Laver stadium
taking in the amazing architecture (modern and Victorian) around Melbourne

Discoveries -

Australia may well have the prettiest blonde women in the world (I'll keep you posted as I have to give California and Sweden a fair shot)
Australians love their designer sunglasses (aka "sunnies")
Australians love to drink beer
like New Zealand, mixed liqour drinks are sold in cans and commonly consumed (rum and cokes, gin and tonics, etc), yet I didn't manage to try them in one month's time
it rains a lot in Queensland during the summer

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

4 - two in Brisbane and two in Newtown. I also spent 2 nights with a friend's relative in Trinity Beach, 2 nights aboard a sailboat, 1 night on Fraser Island, and 2 nights aboard buses. Couchsurfing was tough due to high demand, and the holidays (New Year's in early January and Australia day later in the month).

Eating -

Heaps of chocolate, one plate of nicely prepared kangaroo, meat pies, gelato, ham and cheese sandwiches, and almost daily cappuccinos.

Average Daily Budget -

$98

Dare #4 - Completed - Devour Aussie Burger With the Lot

Dare #4

From Stu: I dare you to get a hamburger with the lot in Australia from a real fish and chip shop (that encompasses the following ingredients)

- fried egg (hard yolk/soft yolk optional)
- bacon
- lettuce
- tomato
- beetroot
- grilled onion
- cheese
- grilled pineapple ring

Must include two steamed dim sims with soy sauce as a side. Must include photo.

Reward: $10

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This burger was massive - and literally the last meal I ate in Australia before heading to the Melbourne airport. I made the mistake of pouring the soy sauce all over the dim sim, which made a real mess of things once I commenced the eating portion of the process.

The 2008 Australian Open - Men's Singles Final

I booked my departure flight from Australia out of Melbourne for the end of January because it seemed like a noteworthy city to visit. It was only after talking to my tennis fiend of a friend (code name - Sup2dresq) before leaving that I learned my travels would offer me the opportunity to attend the 2008 Australian Open, one of the four major tennis tournaments of the year.

In fact, my friend offered to cover the cost of a Grounds Pass to ensure I got myself to Rod Laver stadium for the men's singles final. My hostel was close enough to the tennis complex that I could walk to get there. I headed to the stadium a few hours before the 7:30pm start time so I could do a little exploring. I wasn't alone, as the best spots for watching the match on the jumbo screen outside the stadium were already taken up by people on blankets and plastic chairs. A band was entertaining them on a small stage.

As I walked around the grounds, peering into the locked gates of smaller tennis courts, I realized how much fun it would've been to have caught earlier matches. Even in the early rounds, the best players would be in the Rod Laver and Vodafone stadiums, costing more to see, however the air would be electric with the various fan favorites still alive and in the running (mine being American Andy Roddick).

Eventually, I settled into a spot behind the footpath directly in front of the jumbo screen. Once the band stopped, lots of plastic chairs became available and I instantly upgraded myself from asphalt to plastic. Once situated, I queued up for some overpriced sushi and Jacob's Creek white wine.

The fan favorite seemed to be Tsonga from France, though there was no shortage of Serbian supporters and flags for Djokovic. Considering he beat the world's #1 player for the past few years (R. Federer) and the #2 player to reach the finals, he seemed to be hands-down favorite to win the tournament.

Score

A beautiful sunset transitioned the environment from day to night, and try as they might to support Tsonga, it just wasn't his match to win. After taking the first set, he fell in the next three with the 4th set tie-break providing palpable moments of tension. By then, I had abandoned my front row seat for a little cool air in the stadium. The inside was plastered with plasma screen TV's so you wouldn't miss a point while getting refreshments. The only catch was if you had a stadium seat, you couldn't go back in while play was occurring.

After the match concluded, I walked back to Federation Square, a few blocks from my hostel. It was packed with people who had watched the match on the jumbo screen there. As I walked by, Djokovic was triumphantly accepting his trophy with an acceptance speech thanking all the Serbian supporters.

Well played Djokovic, and special thanks to Sup2dresq for helping me to experience my first tennis tournament!

Indulgence At The Lindt Chocolat Cafe

On my last day in Sydney, before a night bus to Melbourne, Bonnie took me on a ½ day tour which included a few errands she needed to run. The second brought us to the Lindt Chocolat Cafe in the central business district. Almost 2 months after rediscovering Cadbury candy, my veins were running with pure milk chocolate.

Bonnie recommended the hot chocolate, so we ordered two cups, along with 3 truffles we each selected from the counter. When the hot chocolate arrived, it was literally a cup of melted Lindt milk chocolate, and a separate pitcher of creamy milk which you poured into the cup. And to top it off, we were eating truffles! Yes, this was the richest, creamiest, hot chocolate I've ever experienced. Brilliant!

We tried to walk off the chocolate by touring The Rocks, a historic district of Sydney along the harbor. Bonnie use to lead tours in the area so I was surely seeing the best views and spots. I was exhausted from the cold and Sudafed, and not looking forward to the 11-hour overnight bus ride to Melbourne, so I quit while I was ahead, and returned to her place for a short nap before packing up to leave.

Couchsurfing Newtown and Getting Sick

Bonnie was new to couchsurfing, and I was her third guest. She worked in Sydney, and lived with Tom and Eliza in Newtown, a very close suburb to downtown Sydney. It's also right next to the University of Sydney, so it's got a college town feel to it. Supposedly it has one of the highest concentrations of Thai restaurants in the southern hemisphere, however despite the endless cheap lunch options ($4 for Thai - yum!), I wouldn't get to take advantage.

I arrived on Bonnie's doorstep and she made me feel right at home. It felt great to escape the hostels, especially as I was just about to come down with a cold which would put me out of commission for a few days.

Bonnie was also hosting a Japanese guy at the time I was there. He did musical street performances and could juggle. That's about all I can remember. Oh, and he makes a great pizza.

Surf's Up at Bondi Beach

After an afternoon at the Opera House, my next day in Sydney was dedicated to checking out Bondi Beach. It was a short train and bus ride to get there from King's Cross, and the weather was beautiful. When I got off the bus, I was looking at one of the coolest beaches I'd ever seen. Gigantic surf pounded rocks on both ends, while the best surfers I'd seen tackled some big looking waves. And the beach was topless, not that I noticed.

A popular scenic walk runs from Bondi Beach south to Coogee Beach. I wore sneakers for the task, and didn't wear my board shorts so swimming in the cool ocean-fed pool wasn't an option. Instead, I used one of my coupons on a free glass of cold white wine from the balcony of the Iceberg Club (can't recall the exact name).

I then commenced the walk, which seemed easy enough, however under the hot, mid-day Australian sun, with a hangover, it sucked the lifeforce out of me. After passing 3 intermediary beaches before reaching Coogee, I could've cared less about another damn beach! So I jumped on a bus back to Bondi Junction, too tired to explore any further, and grabbed a train back to King's Cross, ready to make my way west to Newtown for my next couchsurf.

The Opera House and Another Night Out

The rains of Queensland were a thing of the past by the time I reached Sydney (and later Melbourne). Aside from a thunderstorm during the soccer match, my days were filled with blue skies and puffy white clouds.

I felt a great sense of excitement when I first stepped out of the train station to see the Opera House and Harbor Bridge. The Opera House is such a unique sight - often symbolizing all of Australia. I had joined up with a few Germans back at my hostel and together we snapped heaps of photos and enjoyed the various views of the harbor and Sydney skyline.

Sydney was really starting to grow on me by this point, and I was thinking to myself that if there was a city I could move to for awhile, it'd be Sydney. It felt like New York City, except people weren't in as much of a rush. Also, for the first time, I was clearly surrounded by Australians instead of the multitudes of international tourists. Australian women, in particular the blondes, were a sight to be seen!

After the sights, I booked my onward flight from Bali to Singapore (w/Jetstar, $110 USD incl. taxes). I settled on 3 weeks in Bali (and nearby island Lombok). I know the vast majority of voters wanted me to stay 10 days so I could move on to new adventures. My tight itineraries in the first 2 months, combined with New Zealand's physical activities and Australia's sheer size have sapped my travel energy. I'm hoping some hammock time on a tropical island will ready me for mainland Asia in the months ahead.

I went out again in the evening with folks from the hostel, including Andy with whom I had toured the exterior of the Opera House. World Bar was a few steps above Scubar, reminding me of the 18th Street Lounge in Washington, DC except bigger. It was housed in a Victorian Building in King's Cross, a few blocks from the hostel. Karaoke was in the back room, a DJ in the front room, and quieter mainstream music on the top floor. While our entertainment guide was getting busy with an older lady from the hostel, another guide from a different hostel was encouraging me to dance. He was funny, and got me moving a bit. If I were to stay longer, I'd have switched hostels because the guy did such a good job with his crew.

Despite the lack of dancing, I had a beer and 3 vodka tonics for about $7 USD. The deals at certain bars, along with a booklet of 15 free drink coupons that are available, can really make for cheap nights in Sydney.

The Sights of Sydney - Queen Victoria Building and Darling Harbour

After catching a bit of sport at the soccer match, I spent the following day around the Darling Harbor area of Sydney.

The first stop was the Queen Victoria Building which I ran into almost as soon as I got off the train.

Normally a shopping mall wouldn't be a must-see for me, however, the exterior design drew me in and I found the interior to be even cooler with its mosaic floors.

I grabbed a cup of cappuccino and watched well-dressed women with designer bags walk past ridiculously expensive stores.

After the mall, I headed to the harbor. The overcast skies soon rained down on me.

I decided to skip the tourist activities requiring money - the aquarium, the world's largest IMAX theater, etc.

There were orange flags throughout the downtown area as Australia Day was quickly approaching.

It's a national holiday to celebrate the founding of Australia by Europeans and seems to be akin to America's July 4th.

Basically, it's an excuse to have a BBQ, beer, and a 3-day weekend.

I finished my afternoon's stroll with a walk through Chinatown.

Paddy's Markets were closed, and I wouldn't make it back to them. It's an Irish-themed street market with lots of cheap goods.

After 24 hours in Sydney, I started to feel like I could be in the United States. It felt comfortable.

The transit system was extensive, yet the information was well communicated.

I was impressed by the LCD screens in the train stops which seemed light years ahead of the LED displays we just recently got in Washington, DC.

In the evening, I went out with some people from my hostel to Scubar.

Our hostel had an entertainment guide whose job it was to take backpackers out to a different bar each night with the promise of a free drink.

I think it's a way to welcome all the foreigners who come to Sydney and Australia with the intention to stick around and work.

Scubar was a basement bar frequented by backpackers, and it was a mess of drunken people.

Somehow I managed to enjoy it for a few beers before heading back to home base - King's Cross.

Sydney FC vs. Melbourne Victory

I caught a glimpse of the Australian A-League soccer schedule when I was couchsurfing with Ben in Brisbane. I had noticed Sydney FC had a home game around the time I'd be there so I picked a flight from Cairns that would give me a fighting chance to see it live.

After checking into Original Backpackers in the King's Cross area of Sydney, I decided to hurry my way over to Aussie Stadium for the match. I waited in a special events bus queue that got me to the stadium (adjacent to the cricket grounds), and then another 20 minutes under the blazing sun to get tickets (about $25 USD).

My seating area was general admission which worked out fine even though I was late. Sydney scored within the 10-minute mark. Melbourne answered back, and a tit-for-tat resulted in a 2-2 tie. Sydney had already clinched a playoff spot (there are only 8 teams in the 3-year old league, with the top 4 going to the semifinals). The skill level was comparable to Major League Soccer, though the crowd was much larger. They had a regular season record 33,000 in attendance.

The Sydney fans covered the entire section behind the goal in the photo above. Melbourne had a smaller, though quite vocal, showing at the opposite end. Every time a goal was scored, signal flares and smoke bombs were lit. The security would then jump into the stands and remove the flares. Sydney supporters had some big flags, and most were dressed in their team's light blue jersey. It reminded me of going to DC United games at home.

Snorkeling On The Great Barrier Reef

After saying goodbye to Michael and Ann in Trinity Beach, I was picked up by a shuttle for my ½ day snorkeling excursion on the Great Barrier Reef. Michael had suggested Green Island would offer the best conditions based on the prevailing winds so I went with it.

The ride out to the island was about 30 minutes aboard a big catamaran that felt less stable than the Apollo yacht. I hired (ie. rented) a blue, full-bodied stinger suit. Jellyfish weren't tauted as a big threat, however a nasty sunburn would be awaiting me if I didn't take precautions.

My boat arrived earlier than the big (full day) one, so I jumped right into the water left of the pier after suiting up. Actually, I had to pay to lock up my valuables first, and as I had my main backpack with me which was too big for the lockers, I covered it in my towel so it was clearly visible from the water.

The water was very clear, and I saw heaps (that's how Australian's like to say "lots") of coral and fish (big and small). I had trouble with the mask fitting properly, though eventually realized it was because I had the hood of my stinger suit over my ears. A small adjustment remedied the problem although the "free" equipment was clearly cheap stuff.

Two hours on the island gave me just enough time to spend an hour and a half in the water. As we sped back to the mainland I couldn't help but think I shortchanged myself in this great environment.

Cairns Tropical Zoo

I visited the obligatory zoo when I was in Cairns. I missed the Steve Irwin Australia Zoo, which is spoken highly of in The Lonely Planet, so I was overdue. It felt like a small zoo, however given all the animals felt exotic, I easily spent 3 hours there (in the 95 degree heat).

I caught the snake show, which featured the world's most venomous snake (the Inland Taipan). Michael said the hill they lived on was crawling with them, though they'd never seen one (just pythons that stretch across the street, among other creatures!).

Cuddling a koala bear was a mandatory photo-op!

And of course I had to watch the crocodile feeding. Sarge was a monster of a croc!

Arriving in Trinity Beach

I like hostels. My mom didn't think I'd be tolerant of them like I was when I was 21, however they allow me to travel to fantastic places, and are filled with interesting characters. Still, if I can't be in my own home, then being in someone else's is the next best thing. Homes are more comfortable spaces, more private, more personal, and more relaxed.

When Michele, my friend and former boss, asked if I'd like to stay with her relative in Queensland, I had to take a few days to respond. I didn't realize Queensland is the giant state encompassing the whole northeast section of Australia where I'd be spending ½ my time. Once I was caught up on my geography, I contacted Michael who lived in Trinity Beach a few miles north of tropical uber-resort town Cairns, and finalized the details of my arrival.

Michael met me at the bus stop, and drove me to my new home away from home for the next 2 nights. Apparently I'd earned some good karma because their home was set in virgin rainforest overlooking the ocean. I had to take a photo of the bed because it's the polar opposite of what I'm normally sleeping on in hostels - big, comfortable, clean! What more could I need?

Ok, I don't *need* to go swim in a gorgeous infinity pool overlooking the Great Barrier Reef, however it couldn't hurt! Michael, and his wife Ann, treated me like part of the family. They barbecued bacon-wrapped filets for dinner, which were accompanied by potato gratin and salad. Dessert consisted of fresh berries and cream. We ate on the porch with the sounds (and mosquitoes) of the rainforest around us. They had told me about a resident tree frog who hangs around, and sure enough he made his presence known after dinner. As you can see below, he's a VERY photogenic tree frog.

Day 3 (of 3) - Whitehaven Beach and Captain Dave

We awoke on the third day to glorious sunshine. At least glorious to most on board. When I heard we'd be on Whitehaven Beach for 2.5 hours in the morning, I pictured myself baking alive. And guess what? I was on fire for much of that beach time. I'm not made for such heat. I took a few walks along the beach, and later found some shade near a trail entrance. Since you had to wear a wetsuit (aka stinger suit) to go swimming due to the jellyfish (aka stingers), I didn't bother bringing one ashore. The crew cleaned up the boat and changed the linens while we were gone so they could get to the pub faster after we got back.

The sun beat down as we set sail on our way home. We sailed for about 4-5 hours which was fine by me, until I realized how hot it started to feel on deck. I ended up with a mighty bad sunburn on my knees, and stripes of red on my legs because I hadn't spread the suntan spray to even the coating out! It was worth it though.

As we got closer to the marina, and the winds let up, the Skipper asked if I wanted to try my hand at sailing the boat. I didn't hesitate, not one bit! I was over there in the blink of an eye. His instructions were to keep us headed toward the point of an island ahead at a bearing of 240 degrees (if that's the right way to say it). I found it hard to keep my eyes off the compass which was mostly for times of low visibility. I imagine those 15 minutes at the wheel will be a highlight of my entire trip, let alone Australia and the Whitsundays. Thanks Joe!

After we disembarked (in the rain, just as we had begun), I returned to Magnum Backpackers, got my bag out of storage, and opted for a double room to myself for the night. A little privacy after 3 days and 2 nights with 29 strangers on a boat was in order. The room had air-conditioning as well - sweet as!

The crew invited us out for drinks at Beaches bar next door to my hostel. They do a little after-party with all their passengers which is apparently rather unique amongst the 300 or so sailing operators in the area. Knowing I had a full day on the bus to Cairns the next day did little to stand in my way of drinking a few pints.

Day 2 (of 3) - My First SCUBA Dive

Our Skipper teaches us how to proplery dispose of all the beer cans (ie crush it).

I slept surprisingly well for my first night aboard a sailboat. We had anchored down in a protected area off one of the islands so the water was quite calm. Despite a little rain in the early morning, the overcast skies were a big improvement from the previous day's torrential rains (seriously, Airlie Beach made the national news due to 2-3 nights of major rains/flooding).

Skipper and Maxi at the rear of the boat.

Due to the improved weather and clarity of water, I was faced with the prospect of my first SCUBA Dive. The Skipper had given us a vote on the day's activities post-breakfast. Our choices were to hit up another snorkel/dive site, go to popular Whitehaven Beach, stop at a resort for hot showers/pool, or sail around a scenic fjord. The majority voted on snorkeling/diving because the majority of us wanted our free introductory dive!

As we motored to our new dive site, Avi (the divemaster) banged his head while trying to do something below deck. He was bleeding quite a bit, and there was a 1-inch laceration on the top of his head.

Despite concern for infection, he decided to do all the free intro dives. I was in the third (and last) group of 4, so I spent an hour snorkeling off the island. The water clarity was much improved so I saw plenty of fish and even more impressive, tons of colorful coral.

When it was my turn to SCUBA, he suited me up with a weight belt and vest/tank. I found that breathing through the regulator was hard (especially on the exhales). It certainly took some getting use to. I was nervous, and knew that staying relaxed and breathing regularly was required. After testing our ability to clear our mask and regulators of water, we went under.

Avi monitored our air and the depth of the dive so we didn't have to think about it. It took all my energy to keep focused on breathing consistently and not freaking out. We used hand signals underwater to verify we were doing OK (I didn't see that any of us had problems).

It was a weird experience overall. I know it could be a lot more fun if I get comfortable with it. I just don't see myself pursuing SCUBA diving further. I'm content to snorkel, and let the divers have their fun deeper down.

After the dives were completed, we ate lunch and set sail for Whitehaven Beach (famous for its white silica beaches - super soft sand I first experienced on Fraser Island). Hoisting the primary and secondary sails isn't an easy task. It takes teamwork and some muscle. I helped hoist the secondary sail, and then grabbed a spot on the high side of the boat as we sped to Whitehaven for the night. The Skipper knows the area well though we can't sail at night because there isn't much in the way of modern equipment on board. In fact, all there is in front of the steering wheel is a big compass!

By night time, the clouds were breaking up and we could see some very bright stars twinkling above. Unlike the prior night, we didn't have a tarp up on deck so we also had 360-degree views. It was quite wonderful. I believe we had barbecued steaks on the second night. Given all the dudes on board, you had to be fast on the food to get your share. A few people found it frustrating. Overall, the food prepared was quite good, and I had a serious appetite for whatever prepared for us.

Day 1 (of 3) - Sailing Amidst the Whitsunday Islands

After a rain soaked Fraser Island trip, I was hoping for smooth sailing under blue skies for my 3 day/2 night sail aboard the mighty maxi yacht Apollo (green/yellow 80-foot racing yacht). As you can see in the photo above, it was cloudy and rainy the morning we set sail from Airlie Beach. To make matters worse, as I cased the passengers outside Gloria's Cafe (our meeting point), I realized there were very few young ladies. In fact, it turned out that there were zero single women amongst the 26 passengers! Between the weather and multitude of Canadian men and couples, I was feeling a bit bummed out.

Still, this would be my first time sailing, and on a retired racing yacht no less. It had a successful history of winning big races such as the Sydney to Hobart race in 1983. I'd learn it was made of all aluminum, and was a one of a kind. The designer is deceased, however his buxom blonde 22-year old daughter takes turns skippering it.

Given it was a dude-fest, there was a ridiculous amount of alcohol brought on board. It seemed like each Canadian (and there were about 10) brought a 30-pack of beer and a 2-liter bag of wine (plus 1 funnel). As the crew was loading it all they said they had run out of room (which never happens). So after the two deck coolers were filled, at least 120 cans were stowed under a ladder (see photo). As for me, I brought 9 cans of beer, and maybe drank 7.

The crew was made up of Joe (skipper), Maxi (deckhand), Goosey (chef), and Avi (divemaster). All of them had to help each other out on the trip, regardless of their primary role. I think they all had to put their hand down the toilets at one point or another to unclog them.

So I didn't get a lot of photos from the first day due to the stinging rain in our faces as we sailed to our first destination - a snorkel/dive spot off one of the islands. Included in the trip's cost is a free SCUBA dive, so Avi briefed us in groups depending on experience. I signed a liability waiver I could barely read and tried to calm my nerves. As it turned out, the heavy rains muddied the waters so visibility was too poor for the intro dives. I snorkeled, though didn't see much. By day's end, massive drinking was under way (as you can't SCUBA after alcohol).

In the evening, with everyone's wet clothes and towels hanging throughout the boat's cabins, it smelled mighty awful. Most of our sheets were wet as well, and since it rained at night, we couldn't keep the ceiling windows open to provide relief. Despite it all, hanging my legs off the high side of the boat as we set sail through the pouring rain was exhilarating. Despite the highest winds (and seemingly highest waves) of the trip, the boat felt incredibly stable. I didn't feel an ounce of sea-sickness. Since all the islands are within the protection of the Great Barrier Reef, I'm sure it doesn't get too much stormier unless a cyclone comes through the area.

Officially My Longest Trip (Ever!)

Alert the presses - it's official! I've now been traveling continuously for more than 7 weeks, thereby surpassing my previous record set 10 years ago in Europe (during my first backpacking trip). It feels right to be traveling on an even bigger adventure a nice round decade after I first discovered my desire for independent travel. I didn't get homesick then, and I'm not even close to feeling it now!

Dare #3 - Completed(?) - Eight is Enough

Dare #3 -

From Kango Suz: If you can post any pictures of you with more than 6 single women with their hands on your one shoulder I'll give you $10 per pic!

Reward: $10 per pic.

__________________________________

I'm going to let Kango decide whether the photo above meets the requirements for the dare. Europe was well represented on the porch of my cabin in Airlie Beach. In the photo, we have 2 Irish lasses, 2 German ladies, 2 Polish girls, and 2 young women from Norway (or was it Finland...does it really matter?).

Let's Go Surfing

Despite being driven around, I still found the Fraser Island tour to be tiring. I managed to get myself checked out of the hostel on time (10am), and then killed off a few hours eating my way around Hervey Bay as I awaited my bus to Agnes Water and Town of 1770. They're two small beach communities next to each other.

Upon arrival, I found my hostel, Cool Bananas, to be the kind of place I'd want to stay longer if I had the time. Dinners were available each night for $4.50, and there was a big common area with free DVD movies. My first night I caught "Bra Boys" which is about a group of Australian surfers (who were portrayed by the public as a gang at times). It certainly put me in the mood for my surf lesson the next day (thanks to all who voted for me to give it a try). Agnes Water is the furthest north surf point on Australia's (Queensland's) east coast. I'm guessing that's why it's also the location of the cheapest surf lessons (about $13 USD).

There were 9 of us for the group surf lesson, which was apparently very few. Normally they get 20-30 people at a time. The waves were larger than normal. Heck, they were far bigger than I was anticipating, yet the instructor sent us on our way just the same. Because the waves were crashing close to shore at high tide, he sent us farther out to a middle area.

Frankly, I think we all took a beating trying to get past the waves breaking closest to shore. They were probably 3-6 feet high. The ocean sucked the life out of me, and the lesson was from 11am-2pm, so it was bloody hot to boot. Toward the end, the tide went out, and waves broke farther off shore, so we all got a chance to surf the whitewater (the little waves after the big waves break). I got up a few times, though I did better in Costa Rica a few years ago. I was soooo beat by the end of the lesson, I did little the rest of the day except watch more movies (I recommend "School for Scoundrels"). I then grabbed a night bus to Airlie Beach for my sail amongst the Whitsunday Islands!

Day 2 (of 2) - Fraser Island 4x4 Safari

The second day of our tour included inland driving to two freshwater lakes and a rainforest. The last thing I expected to find on the world's largest island made of sand is a massive rainforest ecosystem, yet I found myself walking for 30 minutes along the banks of a trickling stream in the shade of gigantic trees. The fern pictured above is 1,700 years old, and has remained relatively unchanged in it's biology since the age of dinosaurs. It grows 1 centimeter a year, and is apparently quite rare. It's one of the oldest living organisms I believe I've seen.

Neil cooked us a nice BBQ lunch which we enjoyed in the rainforest picnic area.

Our final stop of the tour was Lake McKenzie. It is special for being a big freshwater lake, and having very fine sand (silica) beaches. In fact, the sand is so soft you can polish jewelery (or you teeth) quite effectively. I saw it with my own eyes on a silver necklace and a coin. We all went for a swim, mostly hanging out in the shallower section (light blue) because we had some mental issues crossing into the deep blue abyss that lay farther out. Aside from a few turtles, there wasn't much life in the lake(s) due to a low pH balance.

While we were at the lake, a wild dingo made an appearance, quietly snooping around people's bags for food. You can incur a heavy fine if you intentionally (or unintentionally) feed the dingos.

After the lake, we headed back to Hervey Bay where I spent a quiet night at my hostel.

Day 1 (of 2) - Fraser Island 4x4 Safari

Touring Fraser Island, the world's largest sand island, by 4x4 is a VERY popular activity in Australia. The gist of it is to either hire your own 4-wheel drive vehicle and camp out in tents on the island for a few nights, or take a guided tour and let someone else do the driving. I opted to go with The Fraser Experience which was mentioned in The Lonely Planet. The groups are small - 14 people - and you cruise around in a gigantic truck, spending the night in an island resort.

As our guide, Neil, gassed up our truck, I saw a caravan of SUV's pass by on their way to the island. Self-drive tours are cheaper, and thus the most common approach for young backpackers. I felt a twinge of envy. They would have a sense of fulfillment I might be missing out on by paying a bit extra for a guide and such. And then I saw our guide plow past a traffic jam of these SUV's a few minutes after we landed on the island. And then I was thankful we'd have a roof over our heads when it started to pour rain (which lasted both days of the trip).

Goana

We spent the first morning driving up the beach, which despite the rain, was quite brilliant. Our big truck was faster than the little ones, though there wasn't much traffic on the island. The views were rather drab given the rain. We stopped at the resort for lunch, where I saw my first goana (lounging outside the ladies room).

After lunch, we headed farther up the beach to Indian Head Point, which required a bit of a climb. We passed a section of trees which were filled with heaps of Golden Orb spiders. Welcome to my nightmare! It was fascinating and disturbing. They were everywhere, yet I understood them to be fairly harmless.

At the end of the day, we had a buffet dinner at the resort, and a few drinks at the beach bar. Our guide played a game with us by roping me with the tall blonde English nanny in our group. We tried our best to figure out the solution to untangling ourselves with no luck. I wasn't complaining though!

I entered a casual pool tournament, beating one of the organizers (who had his own cue stick) in the first round, though losing my second game by a good bit. A few of my tour mates had stayed out extra late to cheer me on.

Bus from Brisbane to Hervey Bay

After a short night's sleep in Brisbane, I packed up and hit the road on another Greyhound Australia bus. Unlike in America, these buses are well-appointed. They're clean, include a toilet and tap water, usually filled with backpackers, efficient, and rather comfortable. In terms of the buses I will be utilizing on my journey, these are as good as it gets. In Byron Bay, I purchased a 45-day pass allowing me on/off travel on northbound routes from Byron Bay to Cairns.

Clouds

Along the 5-hour drive, I found ample time to appreciate the low-hanging, fluffy white clouds. I also firmly believe the various shades of blue in the sky are rather unique. If you look in the photo above, the sky is a lighter blue nearer the horizon. As you move further away, it gets darker. It could be I'm making something out of nothing, however I found it rather fascinating all the same.

The buses are required to stop every 4 hours for 30 minutes. On this trip, I devoured a meat pie for lunch. The pies are common throughout New Zealand and Australia. Basically, it's a dough pie crust with a savory filling. So far, I've enjoyed beef, chicken, and mutton pies, though vegetarian versions are often available as well. They are very filling and quite cheap (about $3-4 USD).

I caught the sunset in Hervey Bay, the popular jumping off point for 4x4 tours of nearby Fraser Island.

10 Hours in Surfer's Paradise

A few days prior to my arrival in Surfer's Paradise, a beach town between Byron Bay and Brisbane, I had received a "Come on down mate" from a couchsurfing host. He had included his address and phone number in the response so I was excited to have a free night's accommodation. I had sent him a second e-mail, however he hadn't responded. My gut nudged me out of concern, however I didn't listen.

Beach

I arrived in town by bus around noon, and promptly left a voicemail for my contact. Since I'm not carrying a cell phone, he'd have no way to contact me back, so the onus was on me. I tried a second time, then decided to enjoy the beach. It was sunny and hot, and since I had put my backpack in a locker for the day, I didn't want to go swimming, and thus sat under the shade of a tree on the beach, taking in the scenery.

When the heat got to me, I walked around the air-conditioned mall nearby. Surfer's Paradise is akin to Miami in the USA. Tall residential buildings buttress up against beautiful beaches. Several backpackers would later tell me they felt it had no soul. I accepted it for what it was, and enjoyed it. As the day drew on, I checked with two of the hostels in the area regarding available rooms. There were none. Zilch.

The accommodation service at the bus station said something about the least expensive place being $180 AUD/night with a minimum of 3 nights. Clearly I wasn't going to spend that kind of money. I walked over to the contact's apartment, knocked on the door, and received no response. I left one more (semi-desperate) voice mail around 6pm, and then went to plan-b.

My options for plan-b were varied. I could sleep on the beach or some bench. I could stay up all night in the clubs and 24/7 nightspots on the main drag. I could continue to stalk my couchsurfing contact. I could hope for a late bus to Brisbane where more dorm beds would be available. I decided to go with the last option, which worked out in the end.

Being ditched in Surfer's Paradise with no budget accommodation available was a good lesson. I learned to put myself first, and listen to my gut when corresponding with strangers. If my gut tells me they're not being responsive, I should make other arrangements.

Beautiful Balmy Byron Bay

I arrived in Byron Bay after about a 4 hour rainy bus ride south of Brisbane. Byron Bay is known for being a hippie enclave. It's filled with cafes, incense-filled gift shops, places to get massages and alternative (homeopathic) therapies, and of course, surf shops.

In fact, board shorts and surfers are everywhere. By my third day, I gave into an urge to buy a pair of new shorts myself. I don't even particularly like board shorts. Traditionally, you're not suppose to wear underwear with them, though you need to when trying them on. Plenty of people wear underwear with them regularly as well, except that defeats the advantage of having a quick-drying piece of clothing (to live in 24/7). I bought my Billabong pair on sale for 40% off. They're brown and orange which is why they were no doubt on sale. After I got back to the hostel and tried them on without boxers, they practically fell off me - too small. I either need to gain weight, or remain satisfied with my non-flashy blue Gap bathing suit.

It's in Byron Bay that I booked my 2 BIG activities for Australia - a 2 day/1 night 4x4 tour of World Heritage site Fraser Island, and a 3 day/2 night sail around the Whitsunday Islands (within the Great Barrier Reef). I booked the trips at the first of a series of tour agents along a certain section of street. The guy was charismatic and patient, so I was decisive and went with it. I booked on the slightly higher end of the scale price-wise, however The Lonely Planet seems to suggest you get what you pay for, so why not pay a little extra! You must know that's how I roll by now. :)

I can't say I did much in Byron Bay. It rained 2 of the 3 days, and it was quite hot so lounging around, indulging in gelatos managed to fill up my time quite nicely.

My diet on January 5, 2008:

Breakfast - peanut butter and jelly, granola bar
Lunch - 2 beers (it was hot out!)
Snack - Swiss chocolate gelato cone
Dinner - instant noodles

I did catch two movies in the YHA tv room. "Notting Hill" was a bit silly, though passed the time. More my speed was "Greet Street Hooligans" about English firms associated with football (soccer) teams. Great movie, though rather violent.

Then again, I did bear witness to a street fight between a big, bald English guy and a small, young surfer around midnight as I was walking home from a dance-on-the-tables party bar called Cheeky Monkeys. The young kid was completely drunk, and kept getting up in the face of the other guy despite the fact that he kept getting punched and kicked to the ground. I heard a guy the next day mention all 3 people involved were arrested. I really don't like fights, and a young girl was knocked over and crying as a result of this one. There were lots of people around, and some guys tried to break up the fight. Cars were honking, trying to call back the cop on a bike who had passed by a few minutes prior. Suddenly the signs up in bars about "no violence" made much more sense to me.

PS - no, I did *not* do the scenic 4km walk to the lighthouse. I'm on a hiatus from scenic walks.

Couchsurfing Brisbane

I rang Ben up from the Auchenflower train station, and he walked over bare foot a few minutes later to greet me. Turns out his apartment was only two blocks away - super convenient for all the couchsurfers he hosted.

Ben is a Couchsurfing city ambassador for Brisbane, which means he tends to host a lot of people and take an active role in fostering a bigger couchsurfing community in his city (and as I learned, all of Queensland). He was a great host - very connected to the local Brisbane music scene having been in many bands. He introduced me to the local community radio station 4zzz (pronounced 4-triple-zed), 102.1 FM. I was immediately blown away by what I was hearing - rap songs with f-bombs everywhere and the n-word (obviously not radio edits). It turns out the station had a 30-year history of shaking things up and they were still going strong. I listened to the station as much as I could during my 2-day stay - soaking up it's free-wheeling style, and great (really great) music selections. The DJ's were silly and fun too.

Aside from listening to lots of local music (and talking about it too), I did a ½ day walk around Brisbane, though the rain put a damper on it. Chris (another couchsurfer staying with Ben) joined me, though he'd already been to the city. We explored the Town Hall, including the free ride to the clock tower, took a ferry across the river, and spent an hour wandering around the (free) Queensland/Brisbane Museum.

I also hammered out a rough itinerary for my stay in Australia after an overdue read through the Australia Lonely Planet. Next stop, the hippie-beach-party-surf enclave known as Byron Bay!

G'day Mate and Welcome to Australia

I couldn't/didn't sleep but an hour the night before my flight to Brisbane, Australia. No doubt it was because I had to wake up at 3am for the earliest shuttle to the airport to ensure I made the Jetstar check-in (which closes 60 minutes before international flight departures) for my 6:15am flight. I passed the time by watching "Hostel" in my hostel TV room around midnight. It was very gross, though wasn't particularly scary in terms of what it could be like to stay in a hostel. I wonder what it has done for the hostels of Slovakia though!

The Brisbane airport is rather small, and there was no line when I arrived, so I checked in quick, and boarded the plane in a relaxed and sleepy state of mind. Jetstar is a discount airline, and the legroom was non-existent, though I lucked out with no passenger between me and the guy in the window seat. I nodded off on the flight (thankfully), and managed to get myself on a shuttle to the Roma Street train station, where I boarded a train to Auchenflower, my pick-up location for my first (of hopefully many) couchsurfs in Australia.

Final Thoughts: New Zealand

New Zealand surpassed my expectations, and while at times tiring and fast-paced, I would not trade my experiences for the world!

Highlights -

canyoning outside Auckland
haka dance in Maketu
volcanic mud bathing in Rotorua
Tongariro Crossing
trivia night in Wellington
bone carving in Barrytown
heli-hiking Franz Joseph glacier
cinema at Lake Wanaka
Christmas Eve dinner in Queenstown
jetboating
canyong swing
New Years Eve celebration in Christchurch

Discoveries -

self-catering is easy and can save me at least $10 per day in food costs
if the tap water is safe to drink, refill plastic bottles (do not keep buying water). bonus - you can downgrade to smaller bottles of water which means less to carry around.
the toilets have 2 buttons so you can choose between a light and heavy flush (yes, I had to ask someone why there were 2 buttons)

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

Zero (the holidays and tight bus schedule made it difficult)

Eating -

Mix of restaurants, cafes, and self-catering (everything from rack of lamb to instant noodles)

Average Daily Budget -

$115 (more than double the plan)

Let me know if there's another subject or topic you'd like me to cover in my "final thoughts" for each country I visit.

Poll: How Long Should I Spend in Bali?

Help me decide how long to spend in Bali, Indonesia! I have to decide soon so I can book my onward travel. Factors to consider include the fact that I will have been on the road for 2 months, not having spent more than 5 nights in any one place. The first 3 countries I visited could turn out to be the most expensive of my trip.

[poll id="18"]

Top Song: Snow (Hey Oh) by RHCP

Thanks to everyone for voting on which song was my most played after 3 weeks on the road. I was surprised to see Bob Marley's "Three Little Birds" come from behind recently to list as #1 with 12 votes, thus overtaking "Free" by Phish.

Of course neither came close to "Snow" by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. It held a 10-play lead after 3 weeks, and still holds a commanding lead after 5 weeks. Overall, my music selection has been mostly chill stuff, with some faster/harder/louder music for the Tongariro Crossing.

Picking an mp3 player which allows me to make playlists on the fly was a great move. I'm naming the playlists to match my experience or emotion at the time, and so I almost relive past experiences when I go back and listen to them. For example, I made a "bye bye" playlist for my departure from the USA, a "chill" playlist for early in my trip when I was feeling anxious, and a NYE 08 playlist for my recovery.

Rest and Recovery in Christchurch

After a month of travel, and 3 weeks of trying to keep up with the STRAY backpacker bus schedule, I was ready to settle in Christchurch for the remaining 5 nights of my stay in New Zealand, and to celebrate New Year's Eve.

Christchurch is the second largest city in the country after Auckland, however with only about one quarter the population (300,000), it's a big gap which is easily apparent once you find the city's center and spend a day walking around.

Everything is centered around the Christchurch Cathedral, set in none other than Cathedral Square. Tourist sights, bars, restaurants, and clubs radiate outward. I kept with the STRAY hostel, BASE, as it was literally right next door to the cathedral. I managed to get a double bed in the 6-bed dorm. In my collective 5 months of traveling via hostels, I've never come across a double bed amidst dorm accommodations. It's a great treat to rest my weary bones upon it.

I went out my first night with the girls from Christmas Eve - hitting up a popular bar/beer garden/brewery called Dux de Lux. They closed early and so many of the other spots were dead. Apparently Fridays are not a popular night out for Kiwis. We heard Thursdays and Saturdays were good though. We did find a crowd at an Irish pub - Sullivan's - on Manchester Street. I had a nice Kilkenny (Irish favorite, lighter than Guinness) while a cover band played Top 40 American tunes. There are some things you just can't escape I guess!

Really though, I'm trying to decompress. My legs are crying out for rest. I've had a few nights where I've been in bed anywhere from 10-14 hours. To be fair, people are waking up at 3-4am for early flights, and snoring, so it's hard to get a solid, deep sleep going. My goal is to see less in Australia, and stay more nights in each place. Hopefully it'll be so hot people won't be moving around much!

I went out with Matt, a Brit, on New Year's Eve. We went to a few bars, watched the countdown and fireworks in Cathedral Square, and finished the night at The Concrete Club which had house on the lower, smaller level, and drum 'n bass on the main level. I let my inner dance man out, managing my way home by quarter to 5am. Needless to say, I slept late (again!).

Fear Factor: Riding the World's Highest Swing

Date: Thursday, December 27, 2007

Mission: Shotover Canyon Swing

Statistics: 360 feet high (109 meters), 200-foot freefall (60 meters), 650-foot arc (200 meters), 93 mph (150 kph)

6 am - Unintentionally awoken by departing dormmates

9:15 am - Evacuate bladder

9:18 am - Shower

9:50 am - Evacuate bowels

10 am - Eat light breakfast - toast w/Nutella and green tea

10:30 am - Check-in at activity office - tell the staff I plan to say famous Bruce Willis line from "Die Hard" as I jump off ("Yippie-kay-yay, motherf*cker")

11 am - Depart on the shuttle to the canyon (making small talk)

11:15 am - Evacuate bladder again (just to be safe)

11:17 am - Walk to on-location office, then ledge

11:23 am - Staff fit me with a body harness

Jump #1 - Backwards (rated at the scariest level)

Watch video of jump #1

Jump #2 - Forward flip

Watch video of jump #2

Pay the piper for extra jump, DVD's and photos

1 pm - Shuttled back to downtown Queenstown

2 pm - Eat a triumphant lamb Fergburger

Later - Get a beer and quietly toast life, liberty, and the pursuit of scaring yourself to death for the amusement

Happy New Year

The photo isn't from my New Year's celebration (in Christchurch), however it fits the holiday well enough. I celebrated Stephanie's birthday in Franz Joseph along with a bunch of other STRAY bus backpackers.

Cheers to 2008!

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