I, Dave, considered Medellín, Colombia, my adopted home for seven years. I loved the city so much that I wrote a Medellín Travel Guide ebook. In this article, I'll share my best advice from the book and what I've learned to help you have a fun, safe stay.
Medellín, known as the City of Eternal Spring for its year-round Spring-like temperatures, is the comeback kid among South American cities.
For nearly 20 years, from 1972 to 1993, Pablo Escobar ran the ruthless Medellín drug cartel, which trafficked cocaine internationally (with much of it destined for the United States).
To protect his power and multi-billion-dollar fortune, he waged war against the Colombian government and anyone who tried to hold him accountable for his crimes.
The first few seasons of Narcos on Netflix tell the story. If you have more time, I recommend Pablo Escobar: El Patrón del Mal, a Colombian telenovela that delves deeper and portrays the horrors of those years more effectively. Both shows are told in Spanish with English subtitles.
Escobar's legacy and impact on Medellín and Colombia's culture are complicated and beyond the scope of this travel guide.
However, before we explore all the fun things to do in Medellín, including its incredible nightlife, I want to share my tips for staying safe. If you are not concerned, feel free to skip ahead.
How To Safely Visit
Is Medellín still dangerous? Is it safe to visit Medellín? I've received these questions most often since I began living in the city in 2009.
While drug trafficking has continued in Colombia, it's unlikely to impact you as a traveler (unless you look for drugs, which I don't recommend, as it contributes to violence against the Colombian people).
As a visitor to Medellín, you should be more concerned about common crimes, such as pickpocketing and robbery. I was pickpocketed once and the victim of armed robberies twice. As a result, I feel the need to speak out whenever possible.
Types of Theft
Pickpocketing
I was pickpocketed during La Cabalgata, a horse parade that was once held as part of La Feria de las Flores ("Flower Festival"), one of the city's most significant annual events.
Although the horse parade was discontinued in 2014 due to concerns about the horses' treatment, you can still attend other parades or crowded events during your visit.
If you can't or don't want to leave your smartphone safely secured at your accommodation, try to use it as little as possible in a crowd. Holding a shiny new iPhone to take photos may draw pickpockets' attention.
They can easily steal your phone or wallet when people are crowded together, such as when pressing through tight spots along a parade route or jumping up and down to celebrate a World Cup soccer victory.
Armed Robberies
Both of my experiences with armed robberies came while using my smartphone in a taxi. I detailed the first in this blog post, which explains the robbers' strategy of using motorbikes to target people boxed in by traffic and red lights. In December 2018, I was robbed in the same way en route to see the Christmas lights in Parque Envigado.
Unlike pickpockets who try not to be noticed, these guys will flash or point a handgun to get your attention. Trust it's real, and hand over your belongings quickly and calmly.
Don't resist by questioning them, pretending you don't understand, or trying to buy time. They could get nervous and pull the trigger. Game Over. You lose not only your possessions but also your life.
Drugging and Robbery
Drugging drinks with scopolamine (aka The Devil's Breath) and then taking the incapacitated person to an ATM or their accommodation and robbing them is another, albeit less common, strategy.
Thankfully, I've never been drugged, but I was at a dance club one night when one of my male friends had his drink spiked. He was led into a car with people he didn't know, but was luckily able to escape and get back to his accommodation with only minor scrapes and bruises from running across town (but little memory of what happened).
If too high a dose of scopolamine is accidentally given, it can be lethal. Keep a close eye on your drink, don't wander off alone in a busy bar or club, and don't accept drinks from strangers.
Colombians often offer shots of aguardiente as a gesture of friendship, but it's best to only accept drinks from people you know and trust.
Protect Your Valuables
Only after the second smartphone was stolen did I wise up and start buying travel insurance to protect my electronics (phone, camera, laptop).
When my iPhone was stolen in December 2019, I had theft and loss protection through Apple, which meant I only had to pay a deductible to get a replacement.
Because I purchased travel insurance through World Nomads, I could submit a claim to reimburse the deductible I paid.
Ultimately, losing my iPhone was an inconvenience but not a financial hardship. And because I had all my data backed up to iCloud, I didn't lose any of that either. I have just reported the iPhone as lost through Apple and triggered a remote instruction to erase it the next time it connects to Wi-Fi.
I highly recommend getting travel insurance when visiting Medellín and anywhere in Latin America. I'm also a big fan of the Pick-Pocket Proof Pants by Clothing Arts. They make smartly designed travel clothes.
Getting There & Away
By Plane
Medellín's main airport, José María Córdova International Airport (MDE), is about 20-50 minutes outside Medellín in Rionegro, depending on your route.
Major airlines serving the city with direct flights include American Airlines, Spirit Airlines, Viva (formerly known as VivaColombia and VivaAir), Avianca, JetBlue, TAP Air Portugal, and United.
To get to your accommodation from the international airport, you can take an Uber (recommended), a taxi for 80,000 pesos ($21), or a colectivo (minivan shuttle) for 23,000 pesos ($6).
The shuttle drops people off at several central points in the city, where you can catch a taxi and save money.
Colectivos are a tight fit, so take an Uber or taxi if you have a lot of luggage. Unlike Bogotá's airport, there are no regulated fares. However, drivers rarely try to overcharge visitors.
Medellín also has a smaller airport within its city limits, Olaya Herrera (EOH), which offers regional flights with domestic carriers. You can reach it easily by Uber or taxi.
By Bus
Medellín has two major bus stations that serve different parts of the country.
Terminal del Norte is located in the north. Its buses travel to northern and eastern destinations, including Cartagena, Barranquilla, Santa Marta, and Bogotá.
It is conveniently located at the Caribe metro stop, making it easy to reach during the day. When traveling with luggage at night, take an Uber, which costs about 15,000 pesos ($4) to and from most parts of the city.
Terminal del Sur is situated adjacent to Olaya Herrera Airport, near the southern end of the city. It serves the country's southern and western halves, including Cali and Manizales.
The closest metro station is Poblado; however, it is not within walking distance, so it's best to take an Uber.
When leaving the city, you can usually arrive and find a bus departing within a few hours for wherever you're headed, especially if it's another major city, such as Bogotá or Cartagena. The exception is on national holidays, when many Colombians travel around the country.
Getting Around Medellín
Taxi
Uber is a convenient, safe, and affordable way to get around the city. Your ride is tracked, and you know the exact cost. Taxis are still a viable option as well. You can hail them from the street; however, it's safer to call a taxi service to have one pick you up.
When you call, they will give you a code (clave) to confirm with the driver, ensuring you get into the right taxi. Be forewarned: sometimes taxis don't show up, so leave yourself extra time if you're meeting someone at a specific time.
Make sure the taxi's meter is activated as soon as you start. Unlike Bogotá taxis, Medellín taxis show the rate in pesos you'll have to pay. The exception is if the taxi driver had to wait for an extended time at some point along the trip, in which case he may ask for an additional 1,000 pesos ($0.25).
For safety, sit in the back seat with the windows rolled up. Do not remove valuable possessions from your pocket, purse, or bags while in the taxi. Smartphones are a popular target for thieves and easy to spot at night.
Metro
Medellín is the only city in Colombia with a metro rail system. It operates above ground, offering riders uninterrupted views of the city. The main metro line runs from Itagüí in the south to Niquía in the north, and this line will serve most of your needs.
A second line runs from San Antonio Station west to San Javier. However, for safety reasons, most tourists should not go further west than the Estadio (soccer stadium) station.
The rail lines are connected to several metrocables that run up the mountains to various, more impoverished neighborhoods previously disconnected from the rest of the city.
The metrocables are an investment in urban development that has paid off. In the process, they have inadvertently become a tourist attraction, offering riders sweeping views of the valley.
A single metro ticket costs 2,750 pesos (approximately $0.72) and includes a transfer to the MetroCables. The metrocable from Santo Domingo to Parque Arvi requires an additional ticket available at the transfer point.
Bus
Plenty of private buses ply the city streets and can take you anywhere you need to go. The bus routes are posted in the front windows and feature major landmarks, universities, and shopping centers to help you get your bearings.
Flagging a bus is as easy as holding your hand out as it approaches. To get off the bus, look for a red button inside and press it. If you can't find one or it's not working, alert the driver that you want to get off. The average ride costs 1,300 pesos ($0.34).
Where To Stay
Hostels
Most hostels are located in Poblado, within walking distance of Parque Lleras, the city's Zona Rosa. This neighborhood is one of the safest and prettiest in the city. However, petty crime still occurs as thieves target tourists and wealthy locals.
Quick Recommendations
- Quiet Night - Medellín Backpacker Hostel
- Social Atmosphere - Chillin District Hostel
- Partying - Medellín Vibes Hostel
- Amenities - Los Patios Hostel Boutique
- Cheap Stay - Hostal Tamarindo
See also: Best Hostels in Medellín
Short-Term Housing
If you plan to spend a few weeks, months, or years (like me) in the city, you'll want to rent a room or apartment.
- International House - Calle 32 #66C-6, Barrio Belén Malibu, Medellín. Ten rooms for rent in two apartments, a restaurant on the ground floor, and a rooftop deck with 360-degree city views. Apartments are rented monthly. American-owned.
- CompartoApto.com - Free listings for rooms and apartments, most of which Colombians provide. Knowing Spanish is helpful if you want to use this site.
- Airbnb-There are tons of apartment rental properties. Since moving back to the US, this has been my preferred approach.
Couchsurfing
Couchsurfing in Medellín is another option that can help you save money and offer a unique opportunity to experience the city from a local's perspective.
Most Colombians live with their parents until they get married, so finding a place to stay can be challenging. However, members of the Medellín CS group often get together, so it can still be an easy way to meet the locals.
Things To Do
In my humble opinion, Medellín's biggest tourist draw is its natural setting, nestled amidst the Andes mountains, and its consistently pleasant, spring-like weather.
If you decide to spend your whole time partying, I can't say you'll miss anything crucial. If you're not interested in the nightlife, there's still plenty to see and do.
Travelers in town for only a day or two should focus on what's available within the city. If you have more than a few full days, I'd add trips to nearby pueblos. I'll cover those in the "Outside the City" section below.
In the City
Parks and Plazas
Botero Plaza
Fernando Botero, Colombia's most famous artist, is originally from Medellín. He donated an extensive collection of his large bronze statues to the city. They are displayed in Plaza Botero, below the Parque Berrío metro station.
While you're there, take an hour to check out the Museo de Antioquia. It faces the plaza and houses more of Botero's artwork, as well as that of other Latin artists. The entrance is free.
Jardin Botanico
Jardín Botánico, the city's botanical gardens, provides a serene retreat from the city's noise. The gardens are easily accessible from the Universidad metro station and often host concerts and other events.
Across the street is the city aquarium, and next to it is Parque Explora, which features interactive displays that let visitors learn about science and physics.
Pueblito Paisa
Pueblito Paisa is a mock pueblo built atop Cerro Nutibarra, a small hill in the valley's center. The hill offers 360-degree views of the city. It's about a 20-minute walk from the Industriales metro station, or you can take an Uber.
Metrocable to Santo Domingo & Parque Arví
Riding the metrocables is a relaxing and inexpensive way to get a bird's-eye view of the city. Take the metrocable to Santo Domingo for the best views and a closer look at the unique architecture of Biblioteca España.
Pay a few dollars more and transfer to the metrocable that crosses the mountaintop to Parque Arví, a large eco-park.
Activities
Paragliding
The mountains above Medellín offer excellent views of the region and strong thermals, which are perfect for paragliding (parapente in Spanish). The paragliding offices are about a one-hour bus ride away.
Bus tickets cost only a few dollars (from Terminal del Norte, near the Caribe metro stop). A 15-minute flight with a company like Paragliding Medellín costs 160,000 pesos ($42).
Pablo Escobar Tour
Pablo Escobar put Medellín on the global map for all the wrong reasons, namely, building the world's largest cocaine cartel.
Much to the city's chagrin, Pablo Escobar tours are in high demand. Organized tours to visit Pablo Escobar's grave and the location where Escobar was killed are now available. You can visit both sites easily without a guide.
Festivals
La Feria de las Flores (Flower Festival)
La Feria de las Flores is Medellín's biggest festival and street party of the year, running for one week in late July through early August.
Highlights include a 6,000-horse cabalgata (discontinued as of 2014), the flower parade, concerts throughout the city, and numerous other smaller events during the 10-day festival.
Los Alumbrados (Christmas Lights)
Every October, workers in Medellín, Envigado, and surrounding cities begin hanging millions of Christmas lights for the coming holiday season. In early December, they turn on the lights, transforming the valley into a different world every night.
Chivas (party buses), which aren't commonly seen in the city, begin transporting Colombians to view the various displays. It's one of my favorite times of year to be in Medellín.
Outside the City
El Peñol & Guatapé
El Peñol is a monolith in the town of the same name, about two hours outside Medellín by bus. Stairs have been etched into the rock, allowing visitors to climb to the top for 360-degree views of the unique surrounding landscape.
Fifteen minutes from El Peñol is the picturesque pueblo of Guatapé, situated on a lake. Both as great for a long day trip from Medellín; however, staying at least one night lets you relax and enjoy the scenery.
Santa Fe de Antioquia
Santa Fe de Antioquia is a pueblo located at a lower elevation than Medellín, about two hours away by bus. Founded in 1541, it was Antioquia's original capital. Now, after losing that title to Medellín, it is known for its annual film festival.
Jardin
About three to three and a half hours by bus southwest of Medellín, Jardin has a similar, though slightly cooler, climate. This small pueblo, set in a valley, likes to party on weekends, when it feels like the whole town is out in the main square or the surrounding bars.
La Cueva del Esplendor is a popular cave located outside of town. For about 80,000 pesos ($20), you can arrange a horseback riding trip through your hostel or hotel to see it in style.
Food & Drink
Typical Colombian foods are heavy on meats, grease, and salt, and the popular dishes of Medellín and Antioquia are no different.
Regional Dishes
- Bandeja Paisa is a traditional Antioquian dish of beef, pork, or chicken; chorizo; chicharron (pork fat); fried plantains; a fried egg; refried beans; rice; avocado; and a small salad.
- Mondongo is a thick soup made from chopped tripe (stomach lining or intestines) in broth. It is served with accompaniments for mixing, including rice, avocado, bananas, and fresh cilantro.
Restaurants
- Hato Viejo - Multiple locations in Medellín. A moderately priced restaurant that offers excellent versions of traditional Colombian dishes. I had my first Bandeja Paisa here.
- Brasarepa - Calle 46 Sur 42 - 75, Envigado. Enjoy a typical Colombian lunch at this restaurant featured on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" TV show.
- Mondongo's - Calle 10 #38 - 38, Poblado, Medellín. The best place to try Mondongo soup.
- Carmen - Carrera 36 #10a-27, Poblado, Medellín. Colombian-American chef Carmen Angel opened her eponymous restaurant, along with her chef-husband, Rob Pevitts, and her father. Go for a modern take on Colombian cuisine, with a focus on sustainable practices.
- El Cielo - Carrera 40N #10A - 22, Poblado, Medellín. Experience world-class molecular gastronomy and service on a budget. In 2021, owner Juan Manuel Barrientos was the first Colombian chef to earn a Michelin star when he opened El Cielo in Washington, DC.
Related: Best Restaurants in Medellín
Nightlife
Colombian nightlife has an excellent reputation, especially within the big cities, and Medellín is no exception. The city's Zona Rosa, or central nightlife district, is located in the Poblado neighborhood, specifically at Parque Lleras.
If you're staying in a nearby hostel, it's a short walk. Otherwise, hop in an Uber. You can walk around until you find a restaurant, bar, or discoteca that looks good.
Bars & Clubs
- El Eslabón Prendido - Calle 53 #42 - 55, Centro. (Maracaibo, a half block above Parque Periodista). Live salsa bands on Tuesday nights (5,000 peso cover).
- Dulce Jesús Mío - Las Palmas. Crossover music in a club decorated like a mock Antioquia village.
- El Tibiri - Carrera 70 + Calle 44B, Laureles. About a five-block walk from Estadio metro. Tiny basement-level salsa bar that attracts great dancers.
