Help me decide how long to spend in Bali, Indonesia! I have to decide soon so I can book my onward travel. Factors to consider include the fact that I will have been on the road for 2 months, not having spent more than 5 nights in any one place. The first 3 countries I visited could turn out to be the most expensive of my trip.
[poll id="18"]
Thanks to everyone for voting on which song was my most played after 3 weeks on the road. I was surprised to see Bob Marley's "Three Little Birds" come from behind recently to list as #1 with 12 votes, thus overtaking "Free" by Phish.
Of course neither came close to "Snow" by the Red Hot Chili Peppers. It held a 10-play lead after 3 weeks, and still holds a commanding lead after 5 weeks. Overall, my music selection has been mostly chill stuff, with some faster/harder/louder music for the Tongariro Crossing.
Picking an mp3 player which allows me to make playlists on the fly was a great move. I'm naming the playlists to match my experience or emotion at the time, and so I almost relive past experiences when I go back and listen to them. For example, I made a "bye bye" playlist for my departure from the USA, a "chill" playlist for early in my trip when I was feeling anxious, and a NYE 08 playlist for my recovery.
After a month of travel, and 3 weeks of trying to keep up with the STRAY backpacker bus schedule, I was ready to settle in Christchurch for the remaining 5 nights of my stay in New Zealand, and to celebrate New Year's Eve.
Christchurch is the second largest city in the country after Auckland, however with only about one quarter the population (300,000), it's a big gap which is easily apparent once you find the city's center and spend a day walking around.
Everything is centered around the Christchurch Cathedral, set in none other than Cathedral Square. Tourist sights, bars, restaurants, and clubs radiate outward. I kept with the STRAY hostel, BASE, as it was literally right next door to the cathedral. I managed to get a double bed in the 6-bed dorm. In my collective 5 months of traveling via hostels, I've never come across a double bed amidst dorm accommodations. It's a great treat to rest my weary bones upon it.
I went out my first night with the girls from Christmas Eve - hitting up a popular bar/beer garden/brewery called Dux de Lux. They closed early and so many of the other spots were dead. Apparently Fridays are not a popular night out for Kiwis. We heard Thursdays and Saturdays were good though. We did find a crowd at an Irish pub - Sullivan's - on Manchester Street. I had a nice Kilkenny (Irish favorite, lighter than Guinness) while a cover band played Top 40 American tunes. There are some things you just can't escape I guess!
Really though, I'm trying to decompress. My legs are crying out for rest. I've had a few nights where I've been in bed anywhere from 10-14 hours. To be fair, people are waking up at 3-4am for early flights, and snoring, so it's hard to get a solid, deep sleep going. My goal is to see less in Australia, and stay more nights in each place. Hopefully it'll be so hot people won't be moving around much!
I went out with Matt, a Brit, on New Year's Eve. We went to a few bars, watched the countdown and fireworks in Cathedral Square, and finished the night at The Concrete Club which had house on the lower, smaller level, and drum 'n bass on the main level. I let my inner dance man out, managing my way home by quarter to 5am. Needless to say, I slept late (again!).
Date: Thursday, December 27, 2007
Mission: Shotover Canyon Swing
Statistics: 360 feet high (109 meters), 200-foot freefall (60 meters), 650-foot arc (200 meters), 93 mph (150 kph)
6 am - Unintentionally awoken by departing dormmates
9:15 am - Evacuate bladder
9:18 am - Shower
9:50 am - Evacuate bowels
10 am - Eat light breakfast - toast w/Nutella and green tea
10:30 am - Check-in at activity office - tell the staff I plan to say famous Bruce Willis line from "Die Hard" as I jump off ("Yippie-kay-yay, motherf*cker")
11 am - Depart on the shuttle to the canyon (making small talk)
11:15 am - Evacuate bladder again (just to be safe)
11:17 am - Walk to on-location office, then ledge
11:23 am - Staff fit me with a body harness
Jump #1 - Backwards (rated at the scariest level)
Watch video of jump #1
Jump #2 - Forward flip
Watch video of jump #2
Pay the piper for extra jump, DVD's and photos
1 pm - Shuttled back to downtown Queenstown
2 pm - Eat a triumphant lamb Fergburger
Later - Get a beer and quietly toast life, liberty, and the pursuit of scaring yourself to death for the amusement
The photo isn't from my New Year's celebration (in Christchurch), however it fits the holiday well enough. I celebrated Stephanie's birthday in Franz Joseph along with a bunch of other STRAY bus backpackers.
Cheers to 2008!
Life in Queenstown returned to normal the day after Christmas. Unlike probably any other town in the world, this meant a zillion tour operators began shuffling people to face their fears jumping the 130+ meter Nevis bungy (world's 2nd highest), skydiving from 15,000 feet, riding the world's highest swing (109 meters), and a variety of other crazy stunts.
I started the day with a Jetboating ride on the Shotover River which winds through the canyon by the same name. It was fun, though it didn't instill the fear of death in me. The boats are $250,000 each, and can go in water only a few inches deep. It's about as tame an experience as you'll find in Queenstown, though zipping by canyon walls and doing 360's was good fun. Between the in-your-face advertising, and countless stories from other travelers doing crazy activities, I signed up for one I knew would scare me (I hoped). It's like a rite of passage if you come to New Zealand.
With my death-defying activity for the next day booked, I spent the afternoon riding up the gondola to take in the scenic views of Queenstown and race the luges a few times. They're a bit silly, however they give people extra time to take in the scenery. Going under a small tunnel one time, a helicopter had landed on the helipad right above, with its rotors spinning as I zoomed beneath. Meanwhile, paragliders were taking customers off the mountain like clockwork. The Remarkables (mountain range around the lake) received a dusting of snow on Christmas night, which melted off by the end of the following day. I'm glad I grabbed a few photos of them first though. I'd love to see New Zealand in winter some day.
Upon leaving Franz Joseph, we took in a scenic view of New Zealand's Southern Alps from Lake Mattheson. On a good day, you're suppose to be able to see a great reflection of the mountains (including Mt. Cook) because the lake is well protected. Unfortunately it was overcast when we were there.
Another scenic stop was at Roaring Billy Falls, where the photo opps were plentiful. Due to the mineral content of the glacier water, the river appeared a brilliant bluish-green. I'd never seen a river such a color before - quite amazing. It felt like we had the whole valley to ourselves (there were only 3 of us on the bus for this leg).
We reached the pretty town of Wanaka, set on a lake by the same name. It's a popular holiday destination for Kiwis, and I heard it was amazing in the winter too. I love the photo below. I can't imagine a skate park set in a more picturesque location.
As there isn't much going on in Wanaka at night, I took in a movie at the local theater. It was attached to a cafe which allowed you to bring beer, coffee, and food into the show. The seats were all recliners, sofas, and even a VW for that drive-in feel. The movie was Eastern Promises about the Russian mob in London.
For months, I'd been looking forward to spending an entire day (six hours of ice time) hiking on the Franz Josef Glacier on the west coast of New Zealand's South Island. I intended to do the full-day hike.
However, about three days after I had completed the Tongariro Crossing (remember that 12-mile volcanic tramp?), a walking tour of Wellington, and various little bus-stop scenic walks, I started to feel pain in my left leg.
I couldn't quite place it-possibly a calf strain or something with my knee-but the pain differed from what I had earlier in the year. I was limping around quite a bit, though it was bearable.
On my deceptively long walk to the beach in Barrytown for the sunset, I felt a shooting pain that seriously concerned me. The ibuprofen pills and topical gel I'd been using didn't help much.
Given that the 4-hour half-day glacier hikes seemed unimpressive, I opted to upgrade to a heli-hike. You get a scenic helicopter ride up the glacier (higher than where the regular hikes go), hike around for 1.5 hours, and then get a ride back down.
I had been eying a helicopter ride for Queenstown, so I figured, why not kill two birds with one stone? I knew my left leg would thank me.
The helicopter ride up was awe-inspiring. Fantastical. It was much smoother than I expected and not scary (I secured the front seat both ways!). My photos will not do the glacier justice.
Once we landed, we put on crampons and followed our glacier guide. Regardless of how you get on the glacier, the hikes are slow as the guides cut out steps and paths and scout the terrain.
Franz Josef is one of only three glaciers in the world that reside in a tropical environment. It was surreal to see it from afar, surrounded by rainforests.
It was also amazing to be on it and to see vegetation growing along the cliff walls as water cascaded over waterfalls hundreds of feet high.
The whole glacier felt alive, organically changing. Drips of meltwater formed little streams that turned into waterfalls as they descended deep holes in the ice.
I'm pretty sure those streams turned into full-flowing rivers deep down. We saw ice collapse higher up the glacier and tumble down (the hikes occur on the lower half, which moves more slowly and is thus presumably safer).
The "whoa" at the end is when the pilot did a steep bank turn to the left as we crossed the ridge. I must get in a helicopter again!
I paid for the good times in Wellington on my travel day to the South Island. I was up around 6am, took a 7am shuttle to the quay, and set sail aboard the 8:30am ferry to New Zealand's South Island.
The ferry ride was rather uneventful, and I spent a few minutes lounging in a variety of locations on the 5th and 7th level (the 8th was the top, and a bit too windy for relaxation). As we crossed the strait, it began to rain. By the time I got on the next STRAY bus, it was pouring. Ricky was my third driver, and turned out to be my favorite. His bus was consistently on time, he had a fun personality, and supplied good music (Pearl Jam, Sublime, and a few lesser known bands).
Our first stop was Abel Tasman park for 2 nights. We stayed on Old MacDonald's Farm (literally a working farm run by "Old" MacDonald). I was too tired to do the 5-hour park tramp, and didn't think the weather warranted a catamaran sail.
Our second stop was an old gold mining town, Barrytown, which is more of a rest stop when driving down the west coast. We stay at the main hotel/bar (which is literally the town), and usually everyone just drinks and cross-dresses (the photos on the wall bear evidence to this) because there's nothing to do. My bus only had 5 people, myself included, so we kept it to a walk down to the beach for the sunset.
The next morning, Katarin (Germany...again) and I did a bone carving activity. Working with beef shinbone is a lot like working with wood - at least the tools are the same. I was surprised how well my Fish Hook came out, and have been proudly wearing it as a necklace since. According to Maori mythology, the fish hook of Maui made from whalebone was used to haul up the North Island. It represents strength and determination and brings peace, prosperity and good health. It is also a mark of authority and leadership.
It's one thing to say you'll pack light, and another to actually manage it once traveling. Just in case you need a few reminders why it pays to pack lighter....
1. Ease of movement - less physical/mental stress when you're on the move.
2. Less stuff means you're better able to account for what you do have (before leaving that bus terminal/hostel/couchsurf/etc).
3. It's easier to pack up in a dark hostel room at 5am for that early bus/ferry/flight without waking up the whole room.
4. You'll garner compliments and envy from the 99% of people with more stuff than you.
5. You can take your pack as carry-on luggage for flights - negating any concern about misdirected/lost luggage during air travel.
6. Leaving home with the bare minimum means you leave room to carry food or souvenirs without breaking your back (and spirit).
If I truly wanted to go superlight, I think I could drop down to just a medium size daypack, however I'm not *that* hardcore. Happy Packing!
I'm going to skip ahead for today so I can share some photos from my Christmas Eve in Queenstown.
I spent it getting to know Nadia (Switz), Vivian (Holland), and Vanessa (Germany). For dinner, we picked Chico's, an old, low key, candlelit restaurant.
Plus a guy outside had offered us a coupon for a free beer or wine with dinner!
I chose the night as a good time to order a New Zealand Rack of Lamb (served on pumpkin mash w/veggies, potatoes, and a sauce with mint and redcurrant).
We skipped dessert, and walked briefly around the downtown area however we all agreed it was quieter than expected.
Judging from the supermarket earlier, most Kiwis were at home, and backpackers may have stocked up on beer for their dorm rooms.
We had purchased $5 NZD passes to get into the only bar open past 12am - Global Bar.
I thought it'd be big, but it wasn't, though quite lively. The live music ended around 1 am, and a DJ took over, blasting out a weird mix of music from "Footloose" to The Pogues' "Fairytale of NYC."
Around 2:15 am, I called it quits, though I had to try my first Fergburger before going to sleep.
They were blaring music and had a steady queue on their doorstep. I had heard very good things about this burger joint after having only been in Queenstown a few hours.
It didn't disappoint, though it's surreal to be munching on a giant cheeseburger while under a full moon half a world away from home on Christmas morning.
It's now about 2:30 pm on Christmas Day here, and neither I nor any of the four people in my dorm were in a hurry to get out of bed today.
Despite the hostel's big Orphans Christmas lunch set to start in 30 minutes, there's no place like home.
I met up with Justin in the common room of the Wellywood hostel in Wellington. The night was already set for us - Trivia Night at a local bar. His team had placed first the week before, so I was just hoping to make a small contribution to their defending effort.
First off, we had a dare to settle, and Justin made good on it as you can see in the photo above. He and his friends (Mark from England, Justin/James from Ireland) were a riot, and I'm glad I got the chance to hang out with them all.
On to the trivia - Christmas themed questions. I pulled out a few right answers "fox" "Serendipity" and "Jingle All the Way" however Justin and John were the trivia ninjas, helping the team to pull out a second place showing, plus a bonus question. The reward? A $50 bar tab that had to be used that night, and a bottle of champagne (which attracted a newly minted flight attendant in a red dress)!
My favorite moment was toward the end, at a different bar, around midnight, when we all sang along to Queen's "Bohemian Rhapsody." Priceless.
2:38pm, December 17, 2007
Sitting outside Mac's Brewery on a Monday afternoon enjoying a brew - watching the clouds quickly drift by - "Stand By Me" playing over the stereo - winds whipped up - I'm the luckiest son of a gun - feeling like I pulled off The Great Rock 'n Roll Swindle (a la The Sex Pistols). Living a dream is absurdly beautiful. Unbelievable. Fantastic. Amazing. "Sweet as" (New Zealand slang). Every day is an adventure - new scenes, sights, characters, emotions. I feel truly alive. Young skateboarders build their skills like I use to do.
Te Papa museum is a stunning architectural sight - with sections of roof echoing the curves of clouds above and waves below. Looks like I'll finish that pint after all. Brilliant!
Now that I've been gone about 3 weeks, I'm getting the hang of using the various Internet cafes and access points to keep my blog updated. Internet access in French Polynesia and New Zealand has been ubiquitous - every place I've stayed either had it, or had it within a short walk. The question is really how much you want to pay for it. The more remote the location, or the less touristy, the more it will likely cost you (and the slower the connection is likely to be). Since I didn't bring a laptop, I'm subject to my lack of discipline.
At any rate, time is money, and in New Zealand, I'm probably paying about $3/hour on average, whether in large Auckland, capital Wellington, or southerly Franz Joseph Glacier. Some computers are coin-operated, some are based on buying time via a communications company (like "Global Gossip" where you get a unique PIN #), and some are old fashioned timers on a computer (my preferred method).
The views vary from dark and dreary to my favorite so far - the driver's seat of a converted bus facing Franz Joseph Glacier (the clouds are literally parting now so I can see a giant glacier on top of a mountain while it's like 70 degrees out and we're surrounded by rainforest - simply stunning).
Most computers have 1-2 USB ports available in the front, which I stick my 1gb flash memory card into so I can ensure secure access to my accounts, and make use of my customized Firefox browser (makes Internet time more efficient). The other port is handy for using a card reader to upload my photos to Flickr. I need to get better about uploading fewer photos, and shorter videos, as the time seems to drag on, though I'm usually multi-tasking.
Skype is pre-loaded on most computers and has been a breeze to use. I put $10 on it so I could call my parents on their home phone. Just 2 cents a minute. Brilliant!
That's about all I can think of for now - please leave a comment if you have any questions.
My diet in New Zealand has been an odd combination of food. Most eaten items would have to include sausages, cheeseburgers, ham and cheese sandwiches, pizza, fresh muffins, Cadbury chocolate bars (soooo good), granola bars (specifically a brand called "Bumper Bars"), bananas, ice cream bars/pops, and biscuits (ie. cookies). Not too exciting! Still, there seems to be a demand to see more food photos, so here you go!
As you'll note in the latter one, I've started to delve into self-catering via supermarket shopping. The backpacker buses stop at markets and ATM's daily, and most people eat this way to save money. I realized I need to join them if I'm to be making this travel thing a long term arrangement. So while I tried to avoid instant noodles while saving for my RTW trip, I now find myself eating them abroad. At least the views are great. :)
One last note on food here. Lots of things are marketed as "energy" including the chocolate bars. It seems a bit misleading. Sure, chocolate is a good source of quick energy, however it'll also turn me into a chubby monster if I keep eating it every day. The nutrition labels also list the energy measurements on the food and drinks, not that I really know what it means, other than it seems akin to calories.
I awoke from my slumber in Taupo to a chilly, cloudy, rainy morning.
As I peered out the hostel window, I could barely see across the lake to the volcanoes I was hoping to climb.
The Tongariro National Park is a World Heritage site, and home to New Zealand's number one day hike (tramp) - the Tongariro Crossing.
It's an 11-mile (18km) hike between two active volcanoes, one of them being the infamous Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings fame (actual name = Mt Ngauruhoe).
I knew I could do the hike, however, the numbers were a bit imposing.
Eleven miles up the side of a volcano, topping out at 5,700 vertical feet, which was far higher than I'd been before.
The average time for the hike was 6-7 hours.
I packed 2 liters of water, nuts, plenty of chocolate (for fast energy), granola bars, jerky, and a fresh chicken satay sandwich.
I rented a fleece, wool mittens, and a hat for $5 NZD.
I also wore my windbreaker (for rain), pants, Smart Wool socks, and hiking boots (though others were just fine in sneakers and shorts).
The weather remained overcast most of the hike and only started to clear once we had reached the backside of the crossing.
My favorite part was walking along a ridgeline between two craters, watching the clouds whip up one side and flow over to the other.
While we missed out on what are some fantastic views of the countryside, it was hard to deny the ambiance created by the mist and clouds as we crossed volcanic terrain and craters.
I completed the crossing in 5.5 hours, mostly while getting to know Karen from England.
Afterward, I felt an amazing sense of accomplishment, and while my legs were sore for a few days, it was worth it.
For those who were ambitious, an 8 am start would allow time for the three-hour return trip to the summit of Mt. Doom, though we ran into two guys who had done it and said they couldn't see a thing, and it was quite hard to scramble up the volcanic scree to the crater.
I have a good feeling about bagging a summit or two at some point further along in my trip!
Video Atop Tongariro Crossing
During our third night of the bus tour, we stopped in Maketu for a bit of traditional Maori culture.
We were entertained by a family's music/dance show, and then the guys were invited to learn the Haka dance, while the ladies learned another type of dance.
The lack of shirts was mandatory and it's clear we're all in need of a good tan!
After the show, we all grabbed mattresses and blankets and had a big slumber party in the large entertainment space.
After paying a hefty sum for a bus tour with the STRAY company (new kid on the block to The Kiwi Experience), I almost missed my first departure. Yes, myself and 2 others were waiting in the right spot outside the hostel when time slowly ticked away and after more than an hour, I called the bus company which confirmed we must've been blind or deaf to have missed it, and said we were out of luck since it had left town. Lucky for me, Demetrius from Greece was a good complainer because the bus ended up coming back for us and we joined as planned that day.
I've never really toured a country by bus, and at times I feel like a Japanese tourist (pardon the stereotype), getting on and off at preordained scenic outlooks and large sculptured kiwis for photo-ops. At the same time, I've met some really cool people the first week, and the trips are efficient if nothing else. In fact, the country goes by in a bit of a blur if you don't take more than a night in any of the towns along the way.
I'll let a few more of my photos do the talking (see everything I've uploaded so far on the Photos page).
Travel blog Gadling has featured my packing list! Check it out, if you haven't already through this blog.
So far, I'm quite pleased with the things I brought, and hope to share some feedback on what's working especially well.
#1 - From Justin: I would come up with a sweet dare for you, except that, like you are soon to feel, my bank account has been poured into a not-too-narrow funnel. But if you pick your nose in front of the Sky Tower, I'll buy you a beer.
Reward: a tasty beer in New Zealand
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I'll see you in a few days to collect on this one! :)
I'd wanted to go canyoning since I first learned about it in 2005 while planning a trip to Costa Rica. It consists of maneuvering down a river canyon by combination of hiking, sliding down natural rock chutes, jumping off cliffs and waterfalls, and abseiling (rappelling).
The Rough Guide referenced canyons a 40-minute drive west of Auckland, so I made that adventure my first in New Zealand.
There were 6 of us on the day trip, and our pretty guide was Connie from Chile, who'd been working in New Zealand for 9 months. She had a great sense of humor, and I felt quite comfortable entrusting my life and body to her.
After picking up wet suits, harnesses and ropes from a local staging area, we hiked 45 minutes to the top of the canyon. It was a hard slog up muddy, steep trails. I had volunteered to carry a bag of ropes, which weighed heavily on me after only a few minutes!
We received brief instructions on abseiling, and we were off to our first little waterfall leap - about 5 feet. We were immediately offered a jump twice as high into the same pool, and everyone accepted (I was joined by 2 Australian guys, and a couple from San Francisco).
Everyone did every jump and suggestion by our guide the whole time, which was cool.
Our highest jump was probably about 20 feet, a good 10 feet fewer than my personal high of 30 in Costa Rica, so I felt fairly comfortable doing all the leaps.
Our first abseil was the highest - about 60 feet in my judgment, with the water falling atop our heads near the top. It was much tougher than a regular abseil (like I did in Belize last year - into a sinkhole) because the water is in your face, and the rocks are really slippery.
Connie lowered us over one large waterfall which was my favorite, as we could just enjoy the view. We did a second abseil ourselves toward the end, which was a bit slippery, though easier since the waterfall wasn't so violent.
Our lunch was seemingly small, however I gobbled up chocolate, 2 salami sandwiches and a granola bar in no time. We had lunch at the base of the first waterfall we abseiled, and there were freshwater eels there.
The rock slides were my least favorite, perhaps because we were challenged to go down 2 of 3 backwards, and head first! Scarier than the jumps by far! I survived though, and we had another 30-45 minute hike downstream and out to the minibus.
It was as adventurous a guided activity as you can probably find. Canyonz is the only tour operator in that canyon, and I didn't see another soul from beyond our group the whole time from hike in to hike out.
At times, I felt a bit like Bear Grylls, though I'm horrible with impersonations, his commentary and body movements were in my minds as I leaped and hopped, and scurried up slippery mud/rock embankments.
The whole tour lasted 8.5 hours from pick-up to drop-off in Auckland. We were in the (cold) water for about 5-6 of those hours, and despite the rain and clouds, the views were fantastic. It was my first time in a wet suit - not comfortable - though I got use to it after awhile. The cost was about $130, and in my opinion, worth every cent!
I spent my last night in Tahiti couchsurfing with Sam, though he actually gave me a spare bedroom to myself. With the open windows all the time, rather large roaches are not uncommon. Sam managed to squash two, and I surely injured a third before going to sleep. I didn't sleep much though being that it was hot, there were big bugs (at least in my mind) running free, and I had to get up at 4:45am for the flight to New Zealand.
We got to the airport at 5:45am, about 2 hours early, though Air Tahiti Nui recommends 3 hours. I was the 6th to last person in line - a line I waited in for 1.5 hours. I barely made my flight, so going forward, I'll always ensure I get to the airport as early as recommended, even if it means waking up at ungodly hours (while still being respectful of my host if I have a free ride). I ran into Lucy again - her initial flight had been canceled and delayed 2 days. The flight was rather uneventful. If I haven't mentioned it, Air Tahiti Nui's service has been great, and I've enjoyed the food too.
I got myself to the Auckland Central Backpackers (hostel) quite easily via Airbus, and was immediately overwhelmed by the signs and ads. It's a hostel on steroids - big Internet cafe, travel booking service, lounges, several stories of dorms and rooms, backpackers everywhere. I didn't expect to feel overwhelmed entering an English-speaking country, and found myself in bed during the afternoon. I remembered doing this in Tahiti - it took me about 48 hours to get past the jetlag. I felt a bit off not going out on a Friday night in New Zealand's biggest city, however I quickly succumbed to sleep.
Saturday was marked by a short walk to the Sky Tower, and little walks broken up by naps. I also decided on the backpacker bus trip I was going to take - STRAY from Auckland to Christchurch. It's secondary to the bigger one - The Kiwi Experience - however the latter is supposedly more party-oriented, and I wasn't especially interested in that type of atmosphere. STRAY seemed to get off the beaten track a bit more too. I honestly didn't account for the cost of transport around this fine country. The bus trip I booked is about the cheapest for both islands, between the two big companies, and ran me about $500 USD.
There are two things I tend to avoid during international travel - public phones and driving. I managed the public phones in Tahiti well enough (after that first mishap) and was surprised with a crazy drive on my last night.
Sam picked me up about 2 hours after my ferry from Moorea landed. During that time, I got a veal dinner at the local square filled with roulettes (food vans). Yes, a cut off the animal in the photo is what I ate (with french fries). Sam had to transport his motorcycle from his old house to his new, and he needed me to drive his VW Polo. We headed out of Papeete toward his old house, in the dark, after an hour's rain. The highway part was fine, however we then pulled onto a local road that began to climb up what felt like a mountain. I mean I could feel my ears pop on the way up. He swerved all over to miss potholes (one of the reasons he moved), and broken branches and leaves were strewn all over the wet asphalt. We then hit a stretch of dirt road, where the street lights stopped, and he navigated multiple hairpin turns. Finally, we reached the apex of whatever we were climbing, whereupon there was a house with a view of the distant twinkling lights below.
By the time we reached the top, my nerves were going AWOL. I took a pee down the driveway a bit, and tried not to picture the precipitous cliffs that lined the road I was about to head down (at night, after the rain remember). Sam seemed confident in me, and I'd be driving an automatic VW, so I tried to take some comfort in those facts. I put the car in 1st gear, and off we went.
I'm sure I was hunched over the wheel like a 90-year old grandmother. Did I mention there were no lights during the scariest muddy section? I let the car go slowly down, braking softly for fear of skidding off the mountain. Sam went slow, and after passing a few of the hairpin turns, I started to breathe a little easier. I reminded myself not to get overconfident because even after we hit the lit asphalt section, the road was still wet, and there were crazy dogs that ran out at us at one point. Sam pulled up to me and gave me his cell phone in case it rained, which meant if we lost each other, I was in a bit of trouble! A few minutes later he pulled up and gave me his left side mirror which accidentally broke off. I had to laugh at that point. We breezed down the highway, through quiet Pape'ete, and onward to his new home.
Sometimes the adventures come without warning, and without cost!
Dare # 2 -
From RBL: I dare you to convince single women (aged 18-35) to have their photo taken with their hand on your shoulder.
Reward: $5 per woman. No limit.
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It didn't take long for me to complete my first dare (technically the second submitted). I met Christina and Alexandra on Moorea, and as we got to know each other, the cameras came out. They tipped me off to a fantastic activity in South Africa - something I would've never thought possible for tourists. I'll leave it as a surprise!
Please keep the dares coming!
As you saw from the previous photos, Moorea is a little bit of paradise in the South Pacific. It's a short 20-minute ferry ride west of Tahiti.
I want to try and catch you up now that I'm in New Zealand and internet access is cheap by comparison.
I spent 3 nights on Moorea and lucked out with a private dorm room the whole time.
Camping Chez Nelson was set on a fantastic stretch of (rare) beach along a beautiful section of the blue lagoon which encircles the entire island.
My first night I happened upon Lucy from New Zealand. We had first met on the brightly lit airport terminal bus at an ungodly hour like 1 am in Los Angeles.
Serendipity had her staying in the dorm next to me, along with Madeline from Scotland, who was working on her first novel and planned to finish it up with a 3-month stint on Fiji.
We dined on (tiny) lobsters and had an all-around great time together.
The next day it rained (a lot) and I said a wet goodbye to Lucy and Madeline, and let the day pass slowly.
Later, I met 4 new arrivals - Christina and Alexandra from Colorado and Alex and Robert from Germany.
I had taken Benadryl due to what appeared to be a swelling bug bite, though it unintentionally drugged me to sleep for 11 hours.
The next day I went snorkeling on the northern side of the island - which gave me a whole new appreciation for the views of the green mountains and wispy clouds.
Even when it rained, the views above and below water were perfect. We saw stingrays, blacktip sharks, tiki sculptures carved underwater out of coral, and plenty of pretty fish.
That third night I played a card game - Phase 10 - with my four new friends until we retired a little after 10 pm (late by Polynesian standards).
The next day I awoke, ate some more crepes with Alexandra, took the bus back to the ferry, and the ferry back to Tahiti.
See all my French Polynesia photos.
To be continued....
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Bonus Video - I couldn't resist this monologue, though the turquoise waters don't show up as well due to the clouds.
Tahitian postcard goes to the first person to peg where I got the quote. While not original, it perfectly described my feelings at the start of this journey. :)
On my first day in Papeete, I managed to make some silly mistakes. Jetlag, culture shock and oppressive heat make for a tough first day.
I mostly took it easy, though Sam did give me some phone cards since he said it wouldn't be worth it to buy my own to call him a few times.
I have a phobia of foreign phones, and therefore am not adept at using them.
So I went to 3-4 different public phones, sliding the phone card in and out like an ATM, and I couldn't figure out why calls weren't working.
I bought a new card thinking the ones I got from Sam were too low on credits. I think that cost me about $20.
Tahiti is an expensive place to make mistakes! I finally asked someone for help, and she pointed out you keep the card in the machine. And it worked.
I tried to use the computer at the hostel the first day and found the keyboard was the French layout - so I got nowhere in 10 minutes, at the cost of about $2.50.
Lastly, about 28 hours after landing in Tahiti, I learned that the exchange rate I used from my 2006 Lonely Planet was off by 20%.
I was underestimating my spending by 20%! So now I'll always check rates online a country or two in advance.
If I'm going to make mistakes, it mine as well be in the South Pacific! :)
A few years ago I attended the Virginia Gold Cup for the first time. It is a very popular series of horse races held in northern Virginia, drawing out women clad in big-brimmed hats and the gentleman who accompany them.
To prepare, I bought my first collapsible travel chair so I could set up camp on the grass and enjoy the event, though in no way did I account for the hot sun that would soon be beaming down on me.
Renetto's Canopy Chair solves this problem by incorporating a waterproof canopy into the chair's design, thus allowing you to escape the sun whenever you want. The Canopy Chair is the ideal solution for people who want to enjoy beaches, tailgating, camping, or tropical islands like Tahiti.
The design incorporates two shoulder straps, thereby allowing you to have both hands free to carry coolers, babies, or additional camping supplies.
The Outdoor Chair weighs in at 12.5 pounds, and can support the weight of a 250 pound adult. As with most travel chairs, it also includes two essential mesh drink holders so you've always got a refreshment nearby.
This Camping Chair is constructed with a 16mm powder coated steel frame to prevent rust and heavy duty all-weather polyester fabric to ensure durability. The chair is available in a variety of colors, and can be purchased online.
Whether you're fair-skinned like me and in need of constant shade, or simply ready to invest in the next generation of travel chairs, Renetto's Canopy Chairs make sense.
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This review was written by Dave and brought to you by Renetto. All opinions are my own.
After a really challenging travel day from New York to Tahiti, I was wondering what I had signed up for.
15 hours of flying and all the airport waiting that goes along with it.
Every part of my body was sore, and I arrived at 7:30am with a full day ahead of me.
The service on Air Tahiti Nui did ease some of the stress though - I was quite happy with them and the food, though it helped that I managed to have extra seats on both legs of my trip.
Despite my plane arriving an hour late, Sam from Couchsurfing was waiting for me with a traditional lei when I walked out of the airport terminal.
I grabbed some cash from an ATM, and we were off in his VW - picking up the ferry schedule, coffee, and a drop-off at a nearby hostel.
Aside from two short walks around Papeete, I laid in bed all day given the lack of sleep in the past 24+ hours.
Sam is a French doctor, and the nicest guy I could've hoped for.
He's been on the island for a year, and seems to do it all - surfing, kiteboarding, wakeboarding, juggling, and practicing medicine.
He invited me to a friend's going away party that first night, and I had to muster the energy to take advantage of it.
We each picked up a 6-pack of beer, which ran about $14.70 (easily the most I've EVER paid for 6 cans of beer).
We hung out with some of his friends at his new house, then walked to the backyard party a few feet from a black sand beach.
I was surrounded by French people, however a few spoke English, and I had a good time.
They had an 8-person drum circle going at one point, and there was plenty of food and beer. I ended up crashing at Sam's place after all.
The next morning, he drove me to the ferry so I could get over to Moorea, the smaller, less developed (and prettier) island neighbor.
I've got to wrap up, though it has been raining all morning so I'm about to get drenched on the way back to the campground (Chez Nelson).
Moorea is picture perfect, though I don't know that I'm going to manage to upload photos from here.
Internet time should be far cheaper in New Zealand (you can wait until Dec 7....right!?).
Just a quick note to share I received my last paycheck, including vacation time payout, this morning.
I more than met my savings goals - I exceeded them.
I know the figures can seem daunting, however many people go abroad with far less than me, and either work or volunteer, or stick to the cheaper regions.
All I can say is I did it my way (Sinatra-style), and each person has to figure out how much is enough for him/herself.
Going forward, I'll be updating my new spreadsheet, RTW Actual Costs, which should be very valuable info for those planning to visit similar countries in the near future.
I'm heading to Grand Central to catch a train to JFK airport in three hours.
My next update will be from the middle of the Pacific Ocean (even if just to say "I made it" again)!
I made it.....to New York City! One small step today, in preparation for one giant leap tomorrow. I estimate from the time I leave for JFK airport, to the time I arrive at Chez Nelson on Moorea, I'll be in transit a good 20-24 hours (if no delays).
I thought I'd need to reach Tahiti to feel relaxed, however it happened when I was waiting in the chilly morning air on 15th and K St in DC, watching all the nicely dressed professionals walk to work (via Starbucks). My anxiety switched to living in the moment, and all I can say now that I'm in my friend's apartment is "wow" this feels weird (that I'm the guy doing it, not some random other guy/gal) and exciting.
On my first travel day, I was quickly reminded of a few good rules of thumb:
I'd post a dreary photo of NYC's skyline, however I can't figure out how to work this MacBook very well. You'll have to imagine it, and I'll make up for it with a few photos from French Polynesia.
Thanks for all the votes on my poll yesterday. I'm happy to report I pack lighter than you think, as the majority of voters overestimated my pack's weight.
I think Stu was the one person to vote 15 lbs (and he reminded me I should be trying to leave room for additional items like food/water/occasional souvenir).
Backpack weight = 20 lbs (9.1 kg)
As I write this on my last night at home (in Virginia), I wish I could say my head is swirling with fanciful daydreams of the adventures that await, however reality dictates, and I'm still caught up trying to do "one more thing."
Trust me, I'm *trying* to relax and recognize I've prepared to the utmost, and that's the best I can do.
I'm exhausted and don't think I'll be able to chill out (mentally and physically) until I land in Papeete, Tahiti at 6:45 am December 1.
By the way, a resident named Sam is going to meet me at the airport thanks to Couchsurfing!
Whether I'll have a free place to stay is still in the air. And that's just fine with me.
I created a really cool interactive packing list using Flickr notes. Please check it out here (opens new window). Below is the photo without the cool mouse-over feature.
My itemized packing list below looks like a lot, however as you can see in the photo, it's not much!
** Items marked "new" were bought in 2007 for this RTW trip. Items from previous adventures are noted as such.
Clothes and Packs
Toiletries and First Aid
Electronic Gear (I think I crossed into official flashpacker territory)
Documents and Money (all items to be scanned and e-mailed to self, copies left at home too)
Miscellaneous
Things I might have done differently:
Am I forgetting anything????
If I could pick a theme song for today, it was "Damn It Feels Good To Be A Gangsta" by Geto Boys off the Office Space soundtrack. It's from a montage scene where Peter appears to be living a care-free life at work, knocking over his cubicle walls, and outside work, fishing with Jennifer Aniston.
I slept in on my first weekday without a job, woke up feeling as though I'm 99% complete with trip preparations, drove (traffic-free) into DC to apply for my Chinese Visa, pulled into a parking spot a ½ block away, was the last person in the queue to submit my application by the 11:30am cutoff (for same-day service), spent the next 2.5 hours exploring Georgetown (see below for details), picked up a great new Patagonia daypack, paid $130 to get my passport back (w/12-month multi-entry Visa), drove home with little traffic, and was all but sold on keeping Sprint service with only their $4/month flat fee for international calls (plus local international rates, and no contract, for emergency use only).
Exploring Georgetown
After dropping off my passport, I drove the short distance down Wisconsin Ave to Georgetown. I seemed to automatically slip into curious, observant backpacker/vagabond mode, slowing my pace down, walking along the empty waterfront in the chilly drizzle. I came across the House of Sweden (aka Swedish Embassy) which had fantastic architectural qualities like glass exterior panels which served absolutely no structural purpose. I happened across Citronelle restaurant (one of the best in DC, if not the USA), and curiosity lead me to look inside, along the windows, which allowed me to catch a glance of world-renowned chef Michel Richard conversing over papers on the lower level (perhaps picking out the menu for the evening?)!
As I criss-crossed streets, memories of past experiences in the neighborhood came back to me. I bought a sourdough Asagio pretzel and coffee at Barnes and Noble, over which I read a few funny short stories in a Lonely Planet compilation "By the Seat of My Pants," edited by Don George (who was also in the same NBC news bit I was part of). I made use of the restroom too.
I stopped in the Patagonia store, and came across a great little daypack which I bought. I had planned to stay with my Jansport canvas bag after returning a small messenger-style bag from REI (because it was too small, heavy and not as comfortable), however the Patagonia one fit my litmus test: 1.5-liter bottle of water, my jacket, with room for a notebook, guidebook, and camera. It has padded back support, and two adjustable support straps, which will make it more comfortable than the Jansport, plus while slightly heavier, it rolls up about the same. At $50 it was a little steep, however I'm confident it presented itself to me today for a reason!
With new daypack and water in hand, I stopped into Dean & Delucca to ever-so-briefly contemplate the purchase of 1-ounce of white Italian truffle for the cost of a month in India ($437). I made my way back up Wisconsin Ave, ducked into Whole Foods for a few free samples of cheese, and then to the Visa office which had a short line for payment and pick-up of passports.
Earlier, upon applying, the lady had only one question - was I employed? I had listed "independent traveler" as my occupation. :) I responded that I was unemployed, and traveling for 12 months, and that's all there was to it!
Damn It Feels Good To Be A Gangsta (lyrics)
With the days to departure slipping away like sands through the hourglass, I want to thank the following people for their support and encouragement:
Family -
Mom and Dad - I have not forgotten you would like grandchildren some day. I'll pencil that into my next 5-year plan. If nothing else, take heart that when I put my mind to something - I can accomplish it. Thanks for all the food, shelter, and movies the past few weeks as it has allowed me the time and energy needed to finish my preparations.
Jon (brother) - for courageously joining the Marines and serving in Iraq. If you can go to war, I can surely spend a year trotting the globe. Come home safely.
Aunt Barbara and Amy - for your immediate and constant support.
Friends -
Kai - for keeping me focused and on-track, and urging me to work on my website again.
Bob - for saluting my cajones to take this kind of a trip. I'm thankful we got to hang out so much when you took time off from your career. I'll look for you on Skype.
Phil - for all the free drinks on your bar tabs, and letting me store my couch and table set in your basement. Good luck with your wedding plans!
Jason, Mady, Sean, John, Sam, Natasha, Sommer (and Jackie in spirit) - I'm glad we could all hang out at the 18th St Lounge before I left town. The 24-hour Korean BBQ was quite a trip (just like old times).
Chris J, Courtland, Andrew - what can I say? You guys knew me before I got bit by the travel bug, and I'm glad we've been able to stay in touch!
Coworkers -
Joe and Anne (bosses) - I appreciate all the advice you've given me over the years - it's made me a better person.
Stephen, Leo, Tina A., Adrienne, Julie, and too many more - you made working fun, which helped the days fly by!
Online Buddies -
Stu, Mike (Vagabondish.com), Stacy (RamblingTraveler.com), Dan (TheLostGlobe.com), Patrick (crambox), Kirsty (NerdyNomad.com) - for being the top commentators on my blog and offering constructive and positive feedback throughout the year.
Everyone in the BootsnAll Forums - you've helped me every step of the way, from developing a budget to calming my anxieties as my departure approaches! You'll be among the first I go to for help on the road.
Justin (Corporatewhorenomore.com) - I just copied your approach to adding Flickr notes as a way to create my inventory list! I'll post the link soon.
Megan (Me-go.net: Around the World) - I copied the format you used for displaying your RTW trip's cost per day (My version). And, I'm especially thankful you recently contacted me to discuss the topic of COBRA/medical insurance coverage.
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To those reading: Check out my favorite blogs in the right sidebar sometime - I intend to remain subscribed to just about all of them. They've kept me motivated and entertained all year. I hope my blog can do the same for you.
IMG denied my application for their Global Medical Insurance plan because of my recent knee condition and treatment.
I have a much better understanding of why so many people are frustrated and uninsured in America as a result.
It seems unfair that insurers will deny coverage for people who are (or were recently) sick or injured - in short, the people who need the coverage the most - because they might have to pay $$$ after any pre-existing condition clauses expire (IMG Global Gold is 24 months - not that I'd still be with them that long).
As a result, tens of millions of Americans are without health insurance coverage.
I've had employees who had to choose whether to take their children to the doctor, or themselves, yet I didn't really get the rub until now.
The underwriter said I could reapply in 6 months if the knee problem doesn't persist, nor do I seek treatment for it.
Of course, there's no guarantee they'll cover me then either!
So on to Plan B, paying COBRA premiums month-to-month to maintain my employer-based plan.
It's 3-4 times as expensive as the IMG policy, however, it also covers a lot more, and I have the added security of knowing if my knee problem recurs, and self-treatment doesn't help, I don't have to assume the whole cost of further treatment myself.
I still intend to reapply for an IMG policy after 6 months.
Luckily, I obtained all the necessary medical records myself rather than having them sent to the company.
I can scan them all, e-mail them to myself, and have them readily available to forward next May. Just don't tell IMG - I'm still mad at them.
While I have access to the BlueCard Worldwide network outside of the United States, it's geared more toward trying to ensure I'm using an "in-network" provider or facility, versus emergency evacuation support.
For that reason, I just paid for 6 months worth of travel insurance through World Nomads at a cost of $238.
It still surprises me how many people seem to rely on travel insurance alone.
I was recently reminded by a wise man that if I ended up in a worst-case scenario (such as a cancer diagnosis) without medical insurance, it's not just me that'd be financially impacted, it'd be my parents as well.
Despite the unforeseen (and souring) cost of insurance for this trip, I'm so close to leaving it's hard to be upset.
I quickly passed the anger phase and moved on to acceptance.
There are still a few ways I can make up for it along the way:
I walked into work Tuesday morning to find a giant "Aloha" banner behind my cubicle, and hula girls bobbing around.
Everyone on my team had a lei on their seat, and they actually got me to wear them for part of the day.
The photo above is with my coworker Adilah.
Another coworker, Russell, baked 4 pies, and brought in hot dogs and chili for lunch (thanks again - it was a nice surprise)!
And thanks to Geoffrey as well for helping to organize and decorate, and everyone else who contributed!
I've been slowly saying goodbye to everyone for the past few days.
It's surreal to be leaving after more than 5 years with the company, however, it also feels empowering to head off on my own terms into the great wide open!
Liz sent me a question about what I intend to pack, however my e-mail back to her was returned, so I thought I'd share with everyone instead. I will post a more comprehensive packing list before departing.
In the meantime, I can answer your question because I'm decidedly low maintenance (or so I like to think). You can probably get more for your money today than when I got the camera last Christmas and mp3 player over the summer.
- $300 cannon sd700 powershot digital camera - 6 megapixels (+ two 2gb memory cards, 2 batteries, wall charger)
- $150 creative 8gb mp3 player
- $50 universal power adapter/charger (x2 - I got one specific to my mp3 player, meaning the other is for my camera charger)
- $40 petzl zipka LED headlamp
I think that's it from the technology end. If I find a cell phone would be helpful, I might get one along the way, however I'm going to start off without one. Lots of people have asked about a laptop - I just don't have the will to lug even a small one around, let alone worry about it.
I've already got the backpack, daypack, North Face khaki cargo shorts/pants (from '98 summer in Europe), socks, boxers, etc. I do think I'm going to buy a new t-shirt or two given I'll be living in them for quite awhile (it'd be nice to start off with something new to wear). I have to put together a little medical kit too, though because I want my pack to be carry-on, I'll have to leave out a bunch of items.
My friend Chris joined me for MLS Cup '07. He's a big tennis fan, and we started talking about majors on the metro ride to the match. I remembered the Australian Open is normally very early in the new year, so when I asked where and when it was held, I found out it'd overlap with my final few days in Australia.
This first of four major annual tennis tournaments runs from January 14-27, 2008, in Melbourne, which just so happens to be the city I leave from on my way to Bali (Jan 29). Of course that'd put me there toward the end of the tournament for the men's semifinals and finals, the costliest and potentially most difficult matches to attend. However, Chris did suggest that it'd be cool to just hang out on the grounds, if getting a ticket wasn't feasible.
I'm sure seeking a single ticket would make the process a little easier, so it'd just come down to how much I'd be willing to pay. It is certainly an event I intend to keep in mind going forward.
Men's Singles Semifinal - $132, Men's Singles Final - $219 (USD)
Dan, Stu, or any others down under have thoughts on whether I should try and attend?
CAR - My speedy Jetta is officially in the hands of another person, and I'm going to be truckin' around in my Dad's Ford Escape for the next two weeks (thanks!).
DRINKS - Thursday is my "goodbye" happy hour at work. I've shared this blog address with a few people so far, however I won't be ready to send it to a wider audience of coworkers until I'm literally ready to walk out the door.
MAPS -If you only read these posts through a feed reader, be sure to check out my Maps page from time to time - once I hit the road, I'll start posting "Map Views" which will take you directly to the location on Google Maps, however you won't see the link through the feed.
SOCCER - MLS Cup 2007 is Sunday, and though DC United didn't make it, I'm still excited to see the match in person.
VIDEO - I owe readers a video of me taking a shot of Absinthe next Wednesday, to celebrate my last day of work.
INSURANCE - Trying to collect medical records from various providers to submit to an underwriter who will decide whether the insurance company will cover me SUCKS! I did not leave myself enough time.
MY JOB - I've worked for Lumenos, a start-up health insurance company, for the past 5 years, though 2 of those years were technically after we were bought by behemoth Wellpoint (owner of 14 state BlueCross/Blue Shield plans). Feels good to share my company name, however don't worry, I won't mention it again!
At first, I thought staying at campground/hostel Chez Nelson on the island of Moorea in French Polynesia was a godsend. It's only $20 the first night, $16 each additional night for a dorm, and several people have recommended it in the BootsnAll forum. Then I checked Couchsurfing on a whim, and was surprised to find 5 results!
I just e-mailed my first couchsurfer from the guest perspective. I'm suddenly even *more* excited to head to the island paradise, if that is possible. While saving a little money would be nice, I'm thinking more about how the experience of staying with a local could enrich my stay. I'll let you know if I get the green light.
Fun Facts About Tahiti from my Lonely Planet guide (as costly as any other with far fewer pages):
Less than a week after posting my car for sale on Craig's List, I've taken a cash deposit based on a sale price in my preferred range, and expect to finalize the sale (upon receipt of a cashier's check) within the next few days.
I've learned a few things about selling a car, and for those who may be doing it soon, here's my advice:
Read and follow the directions given in online "How to's."
Read the selling version AND the buyer's version, so you know what the people coming to buy your car have been looking at as well.
My favorite was Kelley Blue Book's 10 Steps to Selling Your Car.
I also referenced Guide to Selling Your Car and AutoTrader's How to Sell Your Car.
Post, or re-post, your ad on Friday evening.
I posted my ad on Monday (probably the worst day) and started to feel anxious when the inquiries didn't roll in.
I even started to lower my asking price. I thought people would schedule a time to test drive for the weekend, however, I received the majority of inquiries between Friday night and Saturday afternoon.
This might have been because daylight savings time is over so people wouldn't be able to really see the car on the weeknights, or people were simply wrapped up with school/work.
If you're in a major metro area, allow your Craig's List ad to stay up over at least one weekend before shelling out $30+ for an ad on AutoTrader.
All of my leads came from Craig's List (which is free).
Of the 6 people who responded, 5 wanted a test drive.
I accepted the offer made by the first person to test drive it (early bird gets the worm).
I politely canceled the remaining appointments once I accepted a cash deposit and a handwritten note with the "terms" of the deal and both parties' signatures.
If you only have 2.5 weeks before leaving the country on a trip around the world, your car's sale price will make up more than 30% of your budget, and you receive an offer within your range from a friendly man who holds a senior position at your own bank, TAKE IT!
What a relief! I was as transparent as a windshield and didn't negotiate worth a hoot, however, he offered me the exact figure I had in my mind (which was definitely more than I'd get at Carmax), and I felt completely comfortable dealing with him (and his daughter, for whom he is buying the car).
My last hurdle is getting approved for new medical insurance. More on the company/plan I applied for later!
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PS - I've always based my savings plan on a conservative value for my car (what I expected to get at Carmax).
Now that I've made a private deal, the difference is like a bonus!
It could buy me an extra few weeks in any country on my list, or perhaps something big like a helicopter ride.
Perhaps a multi-day sail in Australia's Whitsundays, or the more expensive trek in Nepal to Everest Base Camp!
I wrapped up my final immunizations this week, knocking out my third Hepatitis B shot, meningitis (for all those dorm-style accommodations), and the flu.
Malaria doesn't exist in Tahiti, New Zealand, or Australia, so I won't need to start popping pills until about January 27, 2009 - two days before I fly to Bali.
I'll then be on them until Europe, which is a long time.
After much research online, I settled on Doxycycline (1x/day).
Its side effects are tied to the digestive system, and sun exposure, which I can manage.
It also happens to be the cheapest option (judging by costs in the USA, and we all know we've got the highest in the world), and most widely available (at least from what I could tell on the BootsnAll forums).
My findings on Lariam (Mefloquine, 1x/week) were startling and quite scary.
Side effects include anxiety (I'm already an anxious guy), nightmares, strange, dreams, depression, and many people believe it has lead loved ones to psychotic episodes and even suicide.
The first article/investigation I read was "The Dark Side of Lariam" on CBS's 60 Minutes website (2003).
I continued to read more and found some scary comments left in the Guestbook of To Lariam or not to Lariam.
Below are a few of the more recent ones:
Thanks for the site ... been a year since I have taken Lariam and finally am beginning to feel 100% normal; Can't believe that they prescribe this drug. --- Tim 10/20/07
Suffered similar side effects as described here minus the vomiting and diarrhea. Only took three tablets but the severe effects lasted 5 weeks after the last while dizziness, weakness, memory loss, mood swings and delirium seems to have lasted up to 3 months from last tablet. It was very reassuring to read the story and see somebody else had gone through what I'm experiencing. I felt I was going crazy as the side effects are so weird. My advice to anyone, don't take Lariam when there is safe alternatives such as Malarone or Doxycycline. -- Andy 10/16/07
If you're planning a trip, do a Google search for "Lariam" before picking a malaria medication.
Malarone (1x/day) is a newer drug. However, it is cost-prohibitive for someone like me planning to be away for an extended period, at least based on US costs.
Chloroquine (1x/week) gave me no side effects when I took it on my past two trips to Central America; however, it has been so widely used, malaria has become resistant to it in much of the world.