Blog - Go Backpacking

Trains, Visas, And Laptops

I pried myself out of bed early to drop off my Visa application at the Indian consulate on Hong Kong Island. The errand afforded me my first trip on the Mass Transit Rail (MTR). I bought an Octopus card which is a renewable debit card for Hong Kong's public transit system, as well as a way to buy stuff at random places like McDonald's and 7-11.

The MTR is awesome, I could hardly think of what more I'd want from a train system. It was fast, comfortable, impeccably clean, and had tons of clearly labeled maps. My favorites were the ones inside the cars, above each door, which lit up the next stop, along with a green arrow showing the heading, and a light to indicate which side of the train to exit from.

After some initial elevator confusion, I managed to drop my Visa application off, paying the $35 fee to have my records checked out back in the USA. I was instructed to come back at the end of the week (Friday AM) to pay the Visa cost, and then between 5-5:30pm Friday to collect my passport (they worked off a copy until Friday AM).

I triumphantly returned to Mirador after my successful navigation of the city, and bumped into Adam using a tiny laptop, the Asus Eee PC. I immediately barraged him with a list of questions about it as a desire to buy one myself built up. It has a 7"? screen, weighs less than 1.1lbs (1kg), has 4gb of memory, wi-fi, a web cam, and runs on Linux. While he got his in England, he estimated they'd cost around $300 in Hong Kong. It is built for web browsing, email, and basic applications. I had considered the idea of getting a laptop in Singapore after meeting Gary back on Bali several weeks earlier. I was feeling self-conscious about the amount of money I was spending in internet cafes. The Asus laptop aptly addressed my concerns about size, weight, and cost.

DuFu's Cottage

As my mornings in Chengdu were often spent asleep (and I do mean all morning), I'd always try to rustle off the couch for some sightseeing in the afternoons. DuFu was a famous Chinese poet and he lived in Chengdu for awhile, so I took an afternoon to tour around his cottage grounds.

Just about all my travel around Chengdu is via the yellow and green VW taxis. They're cheap, and the city is still in the midst of building it's first metro, so it's the best way to get around. The Cottage was a wonderful respite from the noise and business of the city streets. As I arrived late in the afternoon, I felt a bit rushed, however I saw much of what was to be seen.

My favorite section was the bonsai garden. It was stunning! I don't believe I've ever see such old ones, in so many numbers. Plus, they seem a tad cooler in the midst of an ancient Chinese poet's previous home, smack dab in Sichuan, China. :)

As dusk began to arrive, I stopped for tea on my way out of the complex. I was quickly becoming a fan of the tea culture in the region and wanted to experience it one way or another every day. A Chinese woman who spoke rudimentary English joined me for a little while. It's common for cups of tea to be served with giant thermos' of hot water so you can continuously refill your cup. The Chinese love to sit around drinking tea, playing card games, maj jong, and chatting. And I loved being around it!

Getting My Bearings

I awoke the next morning to the comings and goings of those in the hostel room. The bathroom was very tiny, a square with a toilet, small sink, and hand-held shower head. You wash yourself standing right next to the toilet. The setup didn't bother me to my surprise, maybe because I had gotten use to similar bathrooms in Indonesia and at Ian's apartment in Singapore. At least the hot water was truly hot!

After getting cleaned up, I moved to my proper 4-bed room where I set up camp in one of the top bunks. Two Canadian guys were in the lower bunks, and Adam from England was on the other upper one. There was a working TV in the room, though I didn't bother with it during my stay.

To get my bearings in a new city, I tend to walk in concentric circles extending out from my accommodation. My first concentric circle brought me to McDonald's for a pancake breakfast. Feeling completely out of my element, I had a newfound sense of comfort in seeing American fast food joints abroad.

One of my missions in Hong Kong would be to obtain my Visa for India, so I spent some time online getting the consulate's address, and filling out the paperwork. Since it'd take 3-4 days, I made it a priority to drop everything off Monday morning.

Back at the hostel, I ran into an Austrian man of Chinese descent who seemed to want some company. He lead tours for Chinese government officials abroad, though was traveling on his own in Hong Kong (thus the cheap accommodation). We walked down to the Avenue of Stars at the southern tip of Kowloon. It's akin to Hollywood's Walk of Fame (or whatever it is called). From the walkway, you can see across Victoria Harbor to the impressive and immense skyline of Hong Kong Island. The weather was cloudy and chilly, and a haze of pollution enveloped the buildings.

We walked a bit outside of the touristy area of Nathan Road (think Broadway in New York City), stopping for lunch at a Chinese barbecue joint where I ordered duck with rice. We also got some noodle soup with prawn balls from a nearby restaurant. Feeling tired, I opted out of continuing the walk and headed back to my room for some rest and recovery.

Touchdown In Hong Kong

In the early evening, I arrived parched and famished in Hong Kong. After passing immigrations and customs, and collecting my bag, I bit the bullet and grabbed dinner at Burger King in the terminal. If I haven't mentioned it previously, flying with the discount Australian airline Jetstar (and it's Asian contingent) has meant I need to check my main backpack as it doesn't meet the 15lb (7kg) requirement for carry-on luggage. So far, it hasn't been a problem, and I've appreciated the ability to buy larger size liquids (suntan/bug spray, soap, etc.).

After devouring my greasy American fast food, I quickly found my way to the A21 bus which would bring me down Nathan Street to Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. The day before, I had reserved a spot in a 4-bed dorm room in the Friendship Hostel in Mirador Mansion via HostelWorld.com. There were tons of reviews about the hostels in the Mirador and Chungking mansions, so I tried to pick the cheapest one with the highest rating. The general consensus was Mirador was better than Chungking.

As the bus headed toward downtown, I was soon struck by all the large apartment buildings lit up in the distance. On our left we passed a long bridge with a bright red horizontal neon stripe running along it. On our right we passed a giant port with cranes and stacks of container boxes. As we barreled down Nathan Street, I started to feel an inevitable sense of culture shock.

Neon signs extended from buildings horizontally so they were directly above the roads, which makes perfect advertising sense though feels a bit in your face. Chinese characters were everywhere, which reminded me of the fact that language barriers were about to become a bigger challenge. Every other shop seemed to be selling jewelery and the sidewalks were crowded with people being that it was a Saturday night.

I hopped off the bus and walked the instructed 5-10 minutes south to the Mirador Mansion. The term mansion is a bit of a misnomer. Giant slum building would be a more fitting term for the view from the exterior. By 10:30pm, I was within my given arrival window, yet they stuck me in a 12-bed dorm with a ½"? thick mattress across from two toilets/showers in a room that amounted to a drafty hallway. Oh, and my feet were practically in the lap of the people using the internet next to my bed. I was so tired, I went with it and tried to get some sleep knowing my bed wasn't what I reserved.

Final Thoughts: Singapore

My memories of Singapore will be forever tied to the variety of delicious foods available, and Ian's hospitality. Many people will claim you can see the city in a day, however I found 4 days to be far too short to truly get a feel for the life and culture of this wonderful city/country.

Highlights -

couchsurfing with Ian
admiring the modern architecture
holding my first snake
Singapore Sling at The Long Bar
eating Indian food with the restaurant owner, Ian and Waffa
assaulting a crab dinner
tasting Durian for the first time
side trip to Malaysia
eating....everything
exploring the airport

Discoveries -

it is possible to eat too much of a good thing

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

Eating -

A different traditional dish or cuisine for every meal and no western food for 4 days, crab, noodles, chicken, rice, Tiger beer, sugar cane juice, coconut water

Average Daily Budget -

$51

Sayonara Singapore

Ian saw me off to the train on his way to work. He was entirely too generous with his time and money. While hostels aren't particularly expensive in Singapore, I saved quite a bit of money by staying with him when you factor in the internet, laundry, food, and transportation costs. It still amazes me how willing couchsurfers are to welcome strange travelers into their homes and lives, despite the fact that I've hosted two people in the same manner.

I'd heard great things about the Singapore Airport, so I was happy to arrive there a few hours before my fight. Check in was easy, and it was a comfortable place to knock off a few hours. The free internet access was OK, though not a mind-blowing experience. The cactus garden was downright odd.

Before I knew it, I was off to Hong Kong aboard Jetstar's Asian contingent. You can't bring water on board, and they didn't even offer a complimentary cup once aboard for the 3.5 hour fight. I've enjoyed Jetstar, however that approach for a medium-length international flight rubbed me the wrong way.

Hello Malaysia, Goodbye Malaysia

The next day, I joined Ian on a short trip across the border to Singapore for a travel fair sponsored by Malaysia Air.

Despite high hopes for cheap fairs, the event was a dud, and we got lunch and a few shirts at a nearby mall.

The prices were super cheap on some clothing, so I'm not sure how much of it was fake. If only I had a need for more clothing!

We returned to Singapore via the same series of buses which brought us to Malaysia, and prepared for the evening's events.

Ian wanted to make an appearance at a friend's charity masquerade ball, so we met up with Waffa and her friend, and took the MRT and buses all the way across Singapore to a western section of coastline.

Before the party, we stopped at the village's food stalls. There were tons of them.

I had a local chicken dish and a bunch of chicken satay along with tasty sugar cane juice (made fresh).

The atmosphere was amazing, everyone eating, drinking, talking.

Smells of various ethnic cuisines wafted through the air under the bright fluorescent lights.

Typical cuisines I saw again and again included Indian, Chinese, Muslim, and Western, amongst many others.

The masquerade ball was held in one building of many which were part of a former hospital.

There weren't a lot of people, however there was a nice view in the back, plenty of food, and a bar where I treated myself to a beer.

We called it a night after an hour, taking a cab back to Ian's apartment.

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Bonus Video - Typical Singapore Food Stalls

School Daze, Crab A La Bourdain, And Durian

On my second full day in Singapore, I ran an errand with Ian to his alma mater, the National University of Singapore.

It was fun to walk through the halls and eat in the cafeteria with all the students. It brought back memories from my college years.

Afterward, I opted for us to go back to his apartment so I could rest.

I was tired from the previous day and wanted to continue using the convenient and fast internet access.

The plan for dinner was to track down Sin Huat Eating House, a local haunt frequented by famous chefs, including none other than Anthony Bourdain.

If anyone can recall whether this was a restaurant featured on "No Reservations," let me know.

I know he went there as it was publicized in a travel brochure, and clearly, the prices reflected it more than the interior decorating.

There were big tanks with live crabs, scallops, and fish. I saw someone's crab and noodle order and figured it was the way to go.

We didn't get menus; instead, the waiter suggested items. When I asked about the prices, I was taken aback to hear one crab with noodles would run me about $37.

I went with it, though, and assaulted that sucker like there was no tomorrow.

Ian and Waffa just looked on, graciously taking photos as I fumbled with the extraction of tasty crab meat.

I tasted a bit of the roe, or guts, to be adventurous (orange stuff you see in the shell). Twas not my cup of tea, so I stuck to the claws.

Eventually, I ran out of steam and Tiger beer, so we paid the bill and headed for my dessert, the fabled and utterly stinky Durian fruit.

The walk to the fruit stands with Durian was eye-opening. We were on the street bordering the red-light district.

It was about 9 or 10 pm on a weekday, and the restaurants were packed with people dining al fresco (the modus operandi in Singapore). Lots of lights and people.

Eventually, we found a stand with heaps of Durian fruit. Ian bought us each one.

The store clerk helped crack it open, and then Ian did the rest to expose the pudding-like fruit within the hard exterior shell.

We began to scoop it out with our fingers, mindful of the pits. Yes, I could smell an odor in the area. However, I didn't find it overly pungent.

I started to acquire a taste for the fruit. It was certainly unlike any other I'd tasted.

Upon completion, we chucked the shells in nearby wastebaskets as so many had done before us and headed home.

Merlion, Snakes, And Singapore Slings

After a comfortable sleep, I spent some time on my federal/state taxes.

It was a luxury to have access to Ian's computer with fast broadband connection after so many slow sessions in Indonesia. Ian has a Ph.D. and seems like a regular Renaissance man.

He works at night based on American time, teaches classes at the nearby National University of Singapore, runs ItchyTraveler.com, and is managing a local club soccer team.

Despite the fact that I arrived a night earlier than he expected, he welcomed me in all the same.

We began our sightseeing with breakfast in the collection of food stalls outside his apartment block on Clementi Avenue.

My local dish consisted of rice and tofu in a gravy with a hard-boiled egg and coconut shavings.

I immediately realized my mission in Singapore would be to eat, eat, eat.

We took the clean and fast Mass Rapid Train to the business district, and after ambling past some of the numerous skyscrapers, arrived at the Merlion, Singapore's national icon.

Ian told me the story behind it, though I've since forgotten its origin.

Across the water, a gigantic construction project was underway to build Singapore's first casinos.

As I would come to find out, Singapore loves to build stuff. I've never seen so many cranes in such a small area.

As we approached the spot where Mr. Raffle, Singapore's founder, first laid foot, I caught a glimpse of an albino boa constrictor.

Before I knew it, the owner had it around my neck and a silly hat on my head for a few photos.

Having just conquered a long-held fear of snakes, I gladly tipped him a few bucks.

We ate at a hospital cafeteria where I had a tasty, filling, cheap Lemon Chicken Rice dish.

Then it was off to The Raffles Hotel for a Singapore Sling at The Long Bar, the place the drink was invented.

Anthony Bourdain fans take note, he made the same pilgrimage for the tasty libation.

I'm guessing he didn't have to cover the $18 cocktail as I did though!

After my drink, we made our way to Little India and Ian's favorite restaurant Lagnaa.

While he referred to her as his friend, we were actually meeting up with his girlfriend Waffa (not sure on spelling) and her friend who was doing a restaurant review for his travel site.

The owner/head chef of the restaurant was being interviewed when we arrived.

We joined them, and eventually enjoyed a fantastic and spicy array of Indian dishes.

The spice scale went from 1-6, with 6 as the hottest.

When I initially asked for 4 on my chicken curry dish, the waitress laughed and talked me down to 2.

It turned out 2 was perfect for me, very spicy, though enjoyable. I couldn't imagine eating 4, let alone 6.

After stuffing myself further, Waffa guided me back to Ian's place where we watched a bit of American Idol before going back to the local food stalls for a little more food.

I ordered my first of two Tiger beers, which come in giant bottles.

And then it was off to sleep, with dreams of another day filled with terrific ethnic food.

Couchsurfing Singapore

During the first part of the flight to Singapore, there was frequent turbulence and flashes of lightning through the clouds. Initially, I was engrossed in a conversation with the Australian women next to me who was on her way to do the Everest Base Camp trek in Nepal by way of India. As her Valium kicked in, and my anxiety grew, I put on my MP3 player and went to my happy place, eventually drifting in and out of sleep until our arrival.

Visas, immigration, customs, and baggage collection all went smoothly around 1 am. I used my credit card to phone Ian, the Singaporean who offered to host me through Couchsurfing. I'd later learn that call cost me $21. I have no idea why! Ian gave me his address, and I said goodbye to Laura and Jessica one last time. They were off to Thailand via train through Malaysia.

As I took the taxi across the city in the early morning, I felt some reverse culture shock after being on tropical islands for the past 3 weeks. Wide paved roads....large apartment buildings....skyscrapers....no haggle taxis. With the help of the taxi driver and his cell phone, I found Ian, and we headed up to his apartment. After a quick tour, I crashed on his fold out couch.

Odds And Ends After 3 Months Of Travel

Here I am, 3 months into my long-awaited trip around the world. Hard to believe I've made it so far. More than anything, I feel a sense of great accomplishment for making this experience a reality. Dreaming big, working hard, sacrificing multiple trips to Las Vegas, and punching through my fears and anxieties about leaving the security of home and safety of a good job.

There are a few random things I wanted to share before opening the can of worms that is Singapore and Hong Kong.

I made a big deal about packing light, however once I ran out of Campsuds in New Zealand, I started to buy regular liquid soap like just about every other backpacker. And after trying to hack off 2 weeks worth of facial hair with a 99 cent disposable razor, I invested in a Gillette Mach 3 Turbo.

If you couldn't tell, I'm horrible at sticking to a budget, and fantastic at not caring too much about it! I tried to save enough money for 16 months of travel, however in reality I'll be happy with 12 months. I miss my friends and family, though not the comforts of home.

Sharing my travels with new friends enriches the experience more than I previously realized.

The couchsurfing experiences have been priceless.

Final Thoughts: Indonesia

I am leaving Indonesia a changed person. I can feel it, though you may not be able to see it on here. I'm less naive, more assertive, a slightly better negotiator (with still a long way to go), and more in touch with my emotions, which often felt amplified.

It feels bittersweet to be leaving Bali. The hectic pace of life seems to have a rhythm all it's own, and one you can learn to appreciate if you give yourself the time here.

Highlights -

low cost of living (finally!)
frequent massage and spa treatments
shopping (Volcom, Billabong, Ubud art market)
Bali Zoo
lunch overlooking two volcanoes
drinking with Gary and Chris under a tarp in the pouring rain at Kuta Food Court
the first night on Gili Trawangan
hanging out with Linus, Jessica, Laura, Tim and Ashlyn
walking around Gili Trawangan with Jessica and Laura on our last day
walking on the beach from Kuta to Seminyak (and back) with Laura during a sunset
listening to the live band at Joe's Place in Kuta
eating Bali's best suckling pig (a la Anthony Bourdain)
feeding the monkeys in Ubud

Discoveries -

I drink more frequently when the beer is cheap (duh!)
board shorts (w/o underwear) are far more comfortable than shorts in tropical heat
lots of trash washes up on the beaches (of Kuta and Gili T) during the rainy season
it's OK to make mistakes while traveling, and they often turn into good stories you can laugh about, so keep things in perspective
when you click with people, make the most of their company, because all good things come to an end
I can dance like no one is watching (on stage at Bounty)

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

Eating -

Bintang beer, Nasi Goreng Ayam (fried rice w/chicken and egg), toast, scrambled eggs, pineapple, banana, Bintang beer, tons of tea, Pringles, seafood (prawns, crab, tuna), and Bintang beer.

Average Daily Budget -

$55

Adios Amigos

It wasn't until after I cleared security at the airport on February 18th that I realized my flight was the following night. I gave myself a good swift kick in the behind for writing the departure date down wrong in my notebook, and then caught a taxi back to Ronta Bungalows in Kuta to find my crew and have a well-deserved beer (and laugh).

As it turned out, in the meantime, Laura and Jessica had booked the same flight to Singapore as I would be on the next evening. We ate and amused ourselves until we'd all leave Bali. Linus was heading back to Komodo for a second attempt to see the dragons in their natural habitat.

I said goodbye to Linus for the 4th and final time, as did the girls, and we shared a taxi to the airport. We wandered a bit, drank some coffee, and boarded our 10:15pm flight to Singapore.

Partying In Kuta

After a few nights back in Kuta, we were due for a night on the town, especially since I thought Feb 17th would be my last night before heading to Singapore.

After a drink or two in Linus' air-conditioned room, we hit the street (er alley) around midnight for the Expresso Bar. A quick drink and a poor rendition of "Stairway to Heaven" later, we were on to Paddy's across the street. For us Americans, Cancun is probably the best way I can describe the scene within this bar/club, though I've never been to Cancun myself. Lots of young Australian guys getting smashed and lots of women dancing about (some embarrassingly bad I might add).

Jessica

After an hour or so, we went next door to Bounty - the biggest dance club in town. I couldn't help but think about how it was a club just like it (a block away) which was blown to bits in 2002.

Alas you can't live your life in fear, so why not grab another drink and dance the night away on stage.

Off To Ubud for Suckling Pig and Monkeys

I turned Sara's monkey dare into a ½ day trip to Ubud in central Bali. First, I had lunch at Bu Oka, a renowned food stall for Babi Guling (suckling pig).

Bu Oka

My culinary hero, Anthony Bourdain, chomped on the special for his Travel Channel show "No Reservations" just as I did.

I can't say it was love at first bite, however I really liked the way different bits of the pig are presented together. In the photo, you can see there's quite a bit of meat, some green veggies, and rice. The shiny flat bit is crispy skin, though you can feel/taste a bit of fat on the underside. Underneath, and to the left, you can just make out a bit of yellow. I'm not sure what it was - fried pig's ear or something. It was crunchy, and didn't do much for me. There was also a bit of black sausage which was really tender and spicy.

After lunch, I fed the monkeys, and watched them chase each other around the sanctuary, go swimming, and generally lounge about. It was very entertaining to see how our ancestors behave up close and personal.

Lastly, I bought some souvenirs at the Ubud Art Market. Supposedly you can get everything cheaper there than in Kuta, however I'd later realize my opening offers were too high, and I'd ended up paying a few dollars more than if I had bought the same items at the western-style mall in Kuta Square. Live and learn!

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Bonus Video: Monkey Goes For A Swim

Dare #5 - Completed - Monkey Business

#6 - From Sara:

I have a good first dare for ya. After seeing your picture with the fluffy koala bear, and reading about the monkey forests full of gray monkeys in Bali, I've decided that your dare is the following:

I dare you to load your day pack with bananas and head into one of the monkey forests. (Sengeh, Jalan, Ubud?) Once there get the help of someone nice to hold your camera and take pictures. Then, quickly peel and hold two handfuls of bananas and extend your arms like a tree.

I'll contribute a donation of 20$ for each monkey on your body in one single photograph. From what I read those monkeys can be fast so you have to be too! And very brave! I would think the more bananas you pack up, the better chance you have of attracting mucho monkeys, and therefor getting the very best and busy single shot I also suggest leaving a trail of nuts to your final photo spot as a pre-banana warm up, but that part is entirely up to you.

(Bananas and nuts should be sold at the entrance to the park.)

Good luck.

Reward: $20 per monkey on my body

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Upon arrival at the monkey sanctuary in Ubud, I bought a bundle of mini-bananas to feed the monkeys. My driver/guide took the photos as I tried to lure my goal of 5 monkeys upon me for this dare. The best way to get them on you is to hold the bananas above your shoulders, however I found no more than one monkey would jump up at a time.

While I only managed one monkey, I'm grateful to Sara for suggesting I check out the sanctuary. It was a fun part of a ½ day trip to the area.

Back To Kuta And Ulu Watu

I splurged on my trip back to Bali, paying quite a bit to take a 2.5 hour speed boat directly from Gili Trawangan. The first half of the trip was rather rough and it didn't take me long to get the feel for what happens after the boat goes up the crest of a large wave (it slaps down rather hard on the back side). While I didn't get seasick, I did gain a new appreciation for taking a smelly, cheap, slow-ass ferry. On the bright side (for me), I would later hear the day's ferry was delayed for 3 hours outside the Bali port, thus turning it into an 8 hour ride, on top of the overland driving required on both islands.

On Valentine's Day, our little crew was reunited as Linus had been on the same delayed ferry ride. We returned to doing what we do best - eating and talking. I joined Laura (who ran her first London marathon in '07) for a walk on the beach north to Seminyak. I'd estimate it was a about an 8km walk round trip. The beaches became less polluted and crowded the farther north you went. The posher resorts, clubs, and shops are also up in that area. Along the way, we saw a nice peach-colored sun go down.

The next day, Linus was off to East Timor to renew his Indonesian Visa for another shot at Komodo. Jessica, Laura, and I went on a short tour south to Ulu Watu, a cliff-side temple by the ocean. Along the way, we stopped at Dream Beach, which looked like a bomb had hit it. To be fair, the beach itself would probably have been nice for a walk at low tide.

By the time we got to Ulu Watu, the winds were fierce. I bought some bananas to feed the monkeys as a dry run for my friend Sara's dare. A ceremony was taking place so it was quite crowded. And then it began to pour rain, so we decided to skip the dance show and head straight to dinner at a popular area known for seafood.

The restaurant's roof began to leak water, and we found ourselves cold and wet. Eventually, we moved to a dry area away from the view of the pounding surf, and nibbled away at a barbecued snapper before returning to Kuta.

Come Waste Your Time With Me

I woke up the morning of my last full day on Gili Trawangan with a new sensation - energy!

Apparently, a night without alcohol can do that for a person. I walked through "town" and got an Indian chai tea and mini croissants from Scallywags - an organic restaurant I'd heard good things about.

While I was contemplating life over said tea, and the view, I decided to invite Jessica and Laura to my bungalow for a bottle of wine given they were leaving the island the next day as well.

They were up and about when I went over, so we chatted for a bit over tea and breakfast, before agreeing to walk around the island.

The walk was nice and relaxing in comparison to the breakneck bike rides.

I provided some comedic entertainment when I stepped in the island's biggest pile of horse shit while going over the differences in the sands of the various Australian beaches I had visited.

Embarrassed, I scuttled over a dune to wash my ankle in the sea.

Meanwhile, the girls were examining little hermit crabs. As I walked over, I painfully stubbed my toe against a piece of driftwood.

As we were finishing up our walk, we stopped for (more) tea at a beautiful spot on the north of the island.

I don't know how long we were there, long enough for the winds to apply a layer of sea salt to our skin. If I could slow down time, this would've been the spot to do it.

After our walk, we ended up back at Scallywags for lunch.

The day was slowly creeping by and we were simply changing environments while carrying on with fun conversations enjoying one and other's company.

We picked out a bottle of well known "Jacob Greek" Shiraz Sauvignon from a nearby wine shop, and headed to the island's fastest internet cafe (which wasn't that fast).

Once there, it started to pour rain so we tended to our Facebook accounts and photos. I left to obtain glasses from Sama Sama, where the bottle of wine was also uncorked.

The bartender invited us back later in the night for a "goodbye" song from the band.

Cheers

Soon after, the girls arrived and we enjoyed a few glasses of my favorite Australian red wine.

After finishing off the bottle, we headed to (I know you know by now) The Beach House for our last dinner on the island.

There we ran into Ashlyn who stopped to chat. She and her husband Tim were leaving the next day as well. They're possibly the friendliest couple I've ever met.

Every time I bumped into them it always made me feel happy.

It felt right to leave at the same time. I didn't want to stick around the island to the point where I began to take it for granted.

Besides, my experience was so great because of the people I shared it with, not the island itself.

After dinner, we headed to Sama Sama where the band played "Leaving On A Jet Plane" and invited us to sing a song.

I'm a somewhat accomplished karaoke singer, however, singing to a live band would be a first.

I looked around, noting barely anyone was at the bar, or even on the island, and said we need to do this.

After much debate, flipping through books of lyrics written in somewhat broken English, we settled on the classic "I Will Survive."

I didn't know the lyrics or the timing, and soon let Jessica and Laura carry the song.

We said goodbye, heading in opposite directions with plans to meet up back in Kuta, along with Linus whose trip to Komodo was a bust.

The Day After

I could skip over the next day, pretending I didn't feel a bit lonely after Linus left the island (for Komodo), except it wouldn't be true to my experience. I did feel like something was missing after he left.

I took the opportunity to upgrade to a stand-alone bungalow at about $15/night. It had a truly outdoor bathroom - you could get a sunburn on the toilet in the morning if you weren't quick about it. I do enjoy taking a shower in the open air though, maybe because the water doesn't feel quite so cold.

The day seemed to pass by. I played a bit of ping pong at the invitation of Joe, the owner/manager of Beachwind Bungalows. The entire staff at the place were so friendly, they made my stay on the island all the better.

In the evening, I rented a movie at one of the huts with TV/DVD players by the water. I watched Alfie, and since it began to pour rain, Superbad. The party spot on this night was at The Blue Marlin, which was right behind me. I could hear the pounding house and trance music while I watched my movies. After the rain let up, I checked out the scene and it was dead.

It's nights like these which remind me to appreciate all the more the ones I previously wrote about. I've been writing a lot about what I've seen and done as it's frankly easier than writing about how I feel. Traveling alone continuously reminds me to recognize the good moments - when you connect with a person, see an amazing new environment, or overcome a fear. The sooner you sense the good moment, the sooner you can fully immerse yourself in the experience or feeling. And like the line from The Beach, those moments can last forever.

Beach, Bikes, Sunset, Seafood, Drinks

I chose to spend 3 weeks in Bali and Lombok to allow myself a chance to unwind after the fast-paced itineraries of New Zealand and Australia. While I was accomplishing my goal in Kuta, it included the constant hassle from street vendors and women offering massages, and noise of motorbikes and honking taxis. Basically, it was a big city, not a serene scene with stunning views and pretty beaches. Gili Trawangan turned out to be a needed counterbalance, made all the better by the relationships I formed with Linus, Jessica, Laura, Tim, and Ashlyn.

As most nights on Gili T were to involve drinking alcohol, the mornings consisted of sleeping in, ordering breakfast (included in room price), and consuming breakfast on the porch outside the bungalow. It felt like a lot of work, trust me!

Perfect

After a few cloudy days, the sun broke out and Linus and I eventually got ourselves in gear and went for a walk. We bumped into Jessica, who had been sunbathing on the beach with Laura, and joined them for a bit. The heat was sweltering in mid-afternoon, though the sun sets on the opposite side of the island meaning the mornings are more intense.

Laura started to flip through my digital photos, recognizing the irony of being immersed in views of Tahiti and Moorea from the beautiful beach of Gili Trawangan. We were all damn lucky to be where we were, and we knew it. After a bit of sun, we had lunch and rented bikes for another trip around the island, this time in the opposite direction.

Around 6:15pm, we arrived at what could be the best bar in the world. It faces west, and on a clear day, you can supposedly see the sun set over Bali. We were lucky to see the sun at all. After our drinks at the bar, we washed up and met up for dinner at...you guessed it...The Beach House. This time, we had dinner at a table right next to the water, which was lit up, creating a romantic backdrop.

After dinner, we stayed up late in one of those raised huts - drinking, talking, laughing. It was one of those days you wish would never end.

Island Life

And me, I still believe in paradise. But now at least I know it's not some place you can look for, 'cause it's not where you go. It's how you feel for a moment in your life when you're a part of something, and if you find that moment... it lasts forever... --- Richard, The Beach

After a late first night on the island, I started to feel sick the next day (a la Sydney), so I stayed in while everyone else partied at Rudy's, one of the bars on the island.

The next morning, I was happy to find I didn't feel as bad as I was expecting.

Linus and I ran into Jessica and Laura in the afternoon, and they invited us on a bike ride around the island. We picked up our mountain bikes at Beachwind and headed north.

The road quickly gave way to sand, and we all found the pedaling to be difficult at times. It took about 40 minutes to make the journey.

Juku

After working up a sweat with the bike ride, we had some tea at Juku.

The restaurants and bars on the island all have thatch-roofed, raised platforms with cushions you sit on.

Some are more comfortable than others, though I loved the whole concept and feel to them all.

We reunited at 8 pm for dinner where we first met, The Beach House. We'd eat there many times, and the food was always outstanding.

They set up fresh seafood for you to choose from, and then they'd barbecue it right by the road, across from the seating area. I ordered the barbecued tuna while the girls went with salmon.

Night 1 on Gili T - Making Friends

After a short walk along main street on Gili T, Linus and I washed up and headed out for dinner. We noticed the most crowded restaurant to be The Beach House, so we headed for a table - well Linus did. I stopped short, next to two Danish girls. I looked at Linus, then at the girls, figured what the hell, and asked if we could join them.

After getting to know Ann and Ulee a bit over dinner, Linus invited two English girls at a nearby table to join us as well. Jessica and Laura were soon in the mix. As laughter and good conversation ensued, one of the guys I noticed from the ferry ride asked if he could join us. Tim and Ashlyn were soon at our table, and Tim returned the favor by inviting an American woman over, just as she was leaving her table.

Forming new friendships while traveling alone can really be this easy, when good times seem to materialize out of thin air. We'd spend the night getting to know one and other. Linus had a life-or-death experience surviving the 2005 Tsunami in Thailand (a story that had the entire table in awe). The Danish girls were leaving the next day. Jessica and Laura had arrived a few hours earlier than Linus and I . Tim was a professional soccer player with Wellington, NZ's team (part of the Australia A-League) and had lived in Richmond, VA during his college years. His wife Ashlyn had just finished a 5-year run as a dancer with Riverdance, and had a great opinion of Wolf Trap, the amphitheater where I saw the show in 1999 (Fairfax, VA). And the American woman was a trauma surgeon from NC.

And every now and then you just click with certain people, and amongst the lot, Linus and I would click with Jessica and Laura. Good times would be sure to follow.

Gili Trawangan - Welcome To My Paradise

Gili Trawangan is a small island off the coast of Lombok, an island the size of Bali just to it's east. There are many small islands (gili's as they're called) around Lombok, however Gili Trawangan is the most popular one. It is 8 km in circumference, and there are no motorbikes or cars, just carts drawn by small horses, bicycles, and foot power. There are no police on the island, and drugs are widely available (especially, magic mushrooms and marijuana). It reminded me of Caye Caulker, Belize. The small community seems to police itself, as a local told me the punishment for theft is a potential beat-down, followed by banishment from the island.

Most of the development is on the east side of the island, including all the dive shops which include attached restaurants and pools for those learning to SCUBA dive. I was keen to stay at Beachwind Bungalows as it was right across the "street" from the water. Linus joined me and we continued to share a double room.

It's not quick or easy to go from Kuta on Bali to the Gili Islands off Lombok. The regular (cheap) way takes a full day of travel leaving at 6am from Kuta, minus any unforeseen delays. As a result, it is much less visited then Kuta, and it felt as though we had the island to ourselves (this was especially the case as it was the rainy season). There were just enough people to keep my week-long stay fun and interesting.

World's Most Expensive Mosquito Coils

Linus and I were picked up by our shuttle in Sengiggi, and whisked north along the coast to a staging area 200 meters away from the beach where we'd be boarding a small wooden boat to ferry us over to Gili Trawangan.

As we sat around, the "boatman" who would take us the rest of the way was chatting. Among other things, he mentioned mosquito coils. I knew what they were, though never bought them myself, so I had no sense of their regular cost. The boatman said they were not available on the island. I'm all about avoiding malaria and dengue fever, which meant I was about to make yet another foolish mistake.

The Lonely Planet speaks poorly of the port area, and it's a well deserved reputation. The people are very aggressive about picking up your bags and carrying them to the boat without your approval, in search of a tip. In fact, you had to cross a small stream to get to the boat and two guys literally carried Linus over it so he wouldn't get wet. It's not like he wanted them to be doing it either!

Back to the mosquito coils, the quoted price for a box of 10, with lighter, was 95,000 rupiah (about $10). Being that we were in transit, and I was concerned about the hijacking of my stuff as it was, I paid the piper. Supposedly my quoted price was lower than what he asked of the Spanish. The boatman also reassured me that it was the "regular" price.

A 40-minute ride in a long wooden boat with 20-25 people brought us to our island destination, where mosquito coils were available in every shop for the local price of about 30 cents. The screens were so good on the two rooms I had during the stay, I only used one full mosquito coil.

The lesson I learned on this one was to think of products and services in terms of the price locals would have to pay.

Heading East to Lombok

It felt fortuitous to be leaving Kuta, Bali the morning after the theft incident. Leaving for a new destination always feels empowering, and I was heading to Lombok to experience the potential tropical island paradise I had pictured when coming to Bali.

The first person on the shuttle after me was a guy named Linus. You'll hear more about him soon. At this point, he just happened to be the first person I could share my experience with from the prior night. I let it out, which was cathartic.

Soon after, an American couple joined the shuttle, and I'd end up speaking with the guy much of the ride. They were from North Carolina, and would work in bars to save up for 3-month trips in the off-season (winter). I've met so few Americans, I find myself jumping at the chance to talk to them when they present themselves.

After the shuttle to the ferry port in East Bali, we boarded the ferry to Lombok. It was a slow beast of a ferry, taking 5 hours to make the crossing. The lower levels were hot, humid, soon filled with smoke, and all around gross. Most of the backpackers ended up on the top deck with the fresh air.

Linus

Along the way, I got to know Linus a little better. He was a dive instructor originally from Sweden, who worked for 1.5 years on a popular island in Thailand. He was currently touring Indonesia, before a short stop back in Thailand on his way back to a job in Norway. He was carrying all of his own dive gear with him - about 50lbs worth I believe.

Upon arrival in Lombok, night had fallen. We hopped on another shuttle that was awaiting us, and careened north toward our stop for the night - Sengiggi (a popular resort town on the west coast of Lombok). The area felt very dark, except for the bright white headlights of oncoming traffic. Once we were dropped in Sengiggi, Linus and I decided to share a sparse room at the Hotel Elen across the street from our pick-up point in the morning. We went out for dinner, however after looking around, there didn't seem to be much happening in Sengiggi.

Scooter-Born Prostitute Rips Me Off

The Lonely Planet warns readers against prostitutes that ride around on scooters and hassle men walking around alone at night. It specifically warned of one gang (alley), so I made it a point to stay clear of it. At the same time, I had little sense of how this "danger and annoyance" might present itself. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way.

I had found what I thought to be the fastest internet cafe in Kuta, so after being frustrated with slow speeds elsewhere, I decided to spend several hours at it before I left Bali for Lombok the next morning. My accommodation was about a 7-10 minute walk through a few winding gangs. I'd done it several times during the day, and knew where I was going, and how long it'd take.

I left the internet cafe around midnight, and the gang it was on had restaurants so it was still a bit lively. I made my first turn onto the second gang and noticed the shops that had been open earlier were closed, the street was rather empty, and not well lit. I puffed my chest out, and continued to walk at a quick pace trying to look imposing.

A woman on a scooter came up from behind me, and parked it about 15 feet in front of me, in a dark shadowy area. She got off the scooter, and as I walked past her, she grabbed me below the belt, which of course startled the hell out of me. At the same time, she was soliciting me, and I was saying "no, no, no" as I kept walking. She went back to her bike, drove past me again saying "bye, bye" and then stopped another 15 feet ahead of me.

This time, she motioned to a pitch-black alley, and as I walked by, she grabbed my right arm tightly, and went below the belt again. I firmly told her to "get off me" and pushed her away. She got on her bike again, rode past me saying "bye, bye" and this time she kept going.

It wasn't until 2-3 minutes later when I was getting they key to my room out that I realized the 70,000 rupiah (about $8) in my back pocket was gone. My money belt finally showed it's worth, as it contained much more cash, credit cards, and my passport. I was thankful she didn't try to take my backpack which had my camera and mp3 player, however I was angry at the woman for what she did, and myself for being too complacent. Looking back, as you can see from the photos, I had nowhere to go except forwards or backwards, and she surely knew that from past thefts of this nature.

I considered reporting the incident to the tourist police the next day, however after hearing corruption stories about them, and thinking it'd do little good since I couldn't see the woman's face (she was wearing a helmet, besides the fact that it was pitch black), I decided to carry on to Lombok the next morning.

3 Travel Bloggers Survive Torrential Rains

I found nomad4ever.com in early 2007, when I first entered the world of travel blogging. The man behind the scenes is Chris, a German expat who retired in his early 30's to live the good life in Southeast Asia. After a stint in Thailand, he moved to Bali where he's been living for about a year with his girlfriend.

Gary from Everything-Everywhere.com responded to a post I made on BootsNAll, and since we would be in Bali at the same time, arranged to meet up. Gary is about 12 months into a 3-year trip around the world. He thoroughly covered the tiny island nations of the Pacific, and is now tackling Indonesia and Australia. Check out the Google map on his blog if you can - very cool!

I hung out with Gary for a day before all three of us met up at the Kuta Food Court across from the beach. The food was good, and the conversation fantastic. Three guys talking about the life on Bali, Indonesia, various cultures, working life...and the desire to abandon it for travel!

Before anyone got to the food court, torrential rains began and it guaranteed we'd be almost the only patrons. We didn't care though - just kept talking and drinking Bintang beers as the staff used a broom to push the rain water off of the tarp above us every 10 minutes.

Exploring Inland Bali

After getting a feel for life in Kuta, I decided to bite the bullet and venture inland for a day-long tour. Believe me, it was hard after all those spa treatments to tear myself away for some sight-seeing, however I knew it had to be done.

Our itinerary was a bit flexible, however the first stop was a cheesy display of wax drawings on tourist shirts. The Asian tour buses seemed to appreciate it though. Luckily, the next stop was more my style, though surprisingly so. We went to a silver shop, where I was about the only customer. After a short talk about silversmithing, I browsed the jewelery cases until I came upon some rings which caught my eye. The salesperson clearly told me I could negotiate down from the list price, and my natural indecisiveness seems to work wonders because he brought the price down by 50% to about $17 for a sterling silver ring. The middle section rotates, so I spent the rest of the day spinning it around incessantly.

The third stop was unexpected - The Bali Zoo. At $18, I was a bit unsure of whether it'd be worth it. As I walked through the entry, I quickly realized this was a zoo unlike any other I'd been to. Music was playing, gigantic (probably man-eating) spiders were in webs near exhibits and under some paths. On two occasions I was quickly given a bird or lizard (or both) for photo-ops. I saw my first albino Bengal tiger and Komodo dragons, along with a few African lions, and Javanese spotted and black leopards. Tons of monkeys and exotic birds, and a few snakes rounded out the highlights. The zoo was private, and all the animals looked healthy and well-taken care of.

The blazing heat and muggy humidity soon gave way to massive rains. Streets flooded with water, debris, and trash. Spouts from homes and temples along the roads spit out tons of water. My driver and just about everyone else slowed down accordingly.

As the rain stopped, we emerged near the north of Bali to a stunning scene - two massive and misty volcanoes around a lake, on the opposite end of a lush, green valley with little tropical birds flittering around. My lunch stop was an Indian restaurant perched atop a ridge line (amongst many others with the same view). I ate my money's worth at the buffet, and we were off to a nearby temple.

I had to rent a sarong to access the bathing area of the temple. My driver/guide joined me as I knew I'd have questions. He said people go to the temple daily, and even bathe in it daily, as the water is thought to be coming from the Gods. I thought that was a rather impressive act of devotion.

Though my driver offered to stop at another one or two places, by mid-afternoon, I was ready to head back south to Kuta and unwind - culture, volcanoes, and giant Indonesian spiders now checked off my "to-do" list for the 3-week stay.

The Good Life - Massages and Spa Treatments

The good life for Westerners in Bali includes massages and spa treatments, and I was ready to feed the local economy with my hard earned greenbacks. My daily schedule in Kuta was rather simple:

sleep in
enjoy free breakfast at accommodation (very common offering - usually some combination of eggs, toast, pancakes, coffee/tea/juice)
use internet
spa treatment (something different each day - haircut, manicure, pedicure, aromatherapy massage)

traditional Indonesian food for lunch at restaurant for $2
hang out, siesta, nap, shop
go to beach if it looks like a good night for a sunset (tons of locals and tourists alike would head that way once the sun headed down, and it became cooler out)
eat a $2-3 dinner, with $1-2 drinks optional (while watching a movie if eating at Swell - I caught 40 Year Old Virgin, Anchorman, and Dodgeball)
sleep

I learned a difference of only a dollar or two can really change the quality of the massages. The cheapest are offered by the ladies on the beach, who can be rather aggressive. Those are a negotiable $5/hour. The beach is too hot, sandy, and hot for me to enjoy it though. I had one by a pool for about $5, which was OK, however I decided to take it up a notch and go indoors.

The little menu above was for a place in the shopping area known as Kuta Square that struck a good balance between cost and quality. Air conditioning, aromatherapy, candles, and a comfortable table were well worth the extra few dollars ($7-8 total).

Yes, you can live like a King (or Queen) in Bali if you have a bit of money. If costs remain so low, I may need to build a spa component into my Asian budget!

Bali Living 101

By my second and third days in Bali, I was starting to fall for the place.

I figured out the various ways to escape the street vendors and intense mid-day heat - hanging out in your accommodation which would have plenty of shade around either a pool or garden and ducking into restaurants and internet cafes.

I also walked past them with purpose and found I was hassled less.

I learned that around 6pm, close to sunset, locals and tourists alike head to the beach to watch the sun set over the Indian Ocean.

Surfers catch their last waves while little kids play on the beach.

Locals start up soccer games or try to entice the Western women to knock a volleyball around with them.

The night I snapped the sunset photo above, the beach was also chock full of Indian sailors in their white uniforms (3 battleships were docked for 5 days). I'd never seen a scene like it.

I could buy a filling lunch or dinner for the cost of a Cadbury chocolate bar in Australia.

I could buy snacks without feeling like I'm breaking my budget (not that I worried too much about that when it actually counted!).

I admired the devotion and religious practices of the local Hindu population.

Their offerings to the Gods were everywhere.

They were placed outside shops, in alleys, in cars, on motorbikes, in front of statues, and often with incense which wafted throughout the air.

Bali is filled with great surf spots, and Kuta and nearby Legian beaches are considered great beginner breaks.

People from around the world come here to surf, and I just didn't have the energy give it another go.

My plan in Bali is to r-e-l-a-x. Luckily I'm not alone!

Day 1 In Bali - Sensory Overload

I slept nicely my first night in Bali, the fan on full blast to keep me cool and swoosh away any pesky mosquitoes. I washed up in my private bathroom, a much-needed change from the communal hostel showers where I'd have time-release controls, or be subject to hearing guys hawk loogies in stereo (seriously gross habit!). My fancy bungalow even had warm water.

I had read The Lonely Planet on the way to Bali, yet I didn't manage to put one bit of its advice into practice on my first day. Everyone comes to Kuta to make money from the tourists, and it took the first day for me to realize a few things (which again, The Lonely Planet clearly outlined):

Don't look in a cheap shop if you have no intention to buy something. In fact, don't even make eye contact with the guy sitting outside of it. And when he calls to you "hey boss" or gestures to you, don't slow down! Heck, don't even say "no thank you" or turn your neck - it'll wear you out by day's end.
There are far too many people trying to offer "transport" in cars, taxis and on motorbikes. Haggling for transport, like a lot in Bali, is expected so brush up on your skills and be ready to walk away.
It's really, really, really hot during the day, so take it slow. Even slower. No one will care if you don't move more than 100-feet in a day. Just check out the locals - they're all sitting around too.

If you go to the beach, expect garbage to wash up during the rainy season (which includes my time here in February). If your accommodation has a pool, use it instead of the ocean. Walk past the area with palms where all the hawkers will try to sell you stuff. If you buy something from one, say a small pineapple, then you'll soon be surrounded by people trying to sell you everything from a drink, to wooden Buddha sculptures, cheap blow guns, hand-carved chess boards, and massages. It gets annoying fast, so head closer to the water where it seems they're not allowed.
School kids on break from Java will have assignments to practice their English with the tourists. It made me feel like a rock star - being asked for my signature, photo, and interviewed about where I'm from, etc.
Everything is as cheap as I was lead to believe - sweet as!

My first Balinese meal was at an upper-scale restaurant across from Kuta Beach. I had fettucine with crab in a white wine sauce as my main, and white chocolate creme brulee for desert, along with tea. The meal totaled about $15, easily half the cost of what I'd have to pay in a Western restaurant for food of the same quality!

I struck up a conversation with a couple of Swedish girls in the bungalow next to me, inviting them over for a beer (Bintang beer really is $1 a bottle!). The next time I saw them they were in the pool as evening set in, and I had to join them. A few bats were flying overhead, however we otherwise had the place to ourselves.

We went out to dinner after the swim, and I ordered Nasi Goreng for the first time. It was love at first bite! It's a traditional Indonesian rice dish served in various ways (such as with seafood or chicken).

Welcome To Kuta

My flight arrived in Bali late at night which was not my preference. After clearing customs, I picked up my bag and made a quick stop in the bathroom which was opposite a prayer room. It was small, with both a Western and Eastern (ie. squat) toilet. The urinal had a white flower petal on it. Clearly I was in new territory.

I grabbed some cash from an ATM in the terminal and headed out into the night. Once past the ubiquitous crowd of people that gathers outside smaller foreign airports, I hit the taxi drivers. I took my third offer, which was the same as my first, and none were in the mood to bargain with me. I wasn't in the mood to haggle so I agreed to pay the $7-8 or so for the drive to nearby Kuta.

Kuta Beach is *the* tourist spot in Bali, and the temporary home to many a surfer and backpacker. It is also the sight of the two terrorist bombings, most notably the one that killed over 200 people in a club back in 2002. I can still remember the image on the news of the building on fire, and I was a bit anxious about the safety situation prior to arrival.

As my taxi driver sped toward my bungalow accommodation for the next 2 nights (right across the street from the beach), I tried to take in all the bars and restaurants lit up at night, and the constant buzz of motorbikes whizzing past us on both sides. The ground was wet so I could tell it had just rained. My taxi driver was kind enough to offer to arrange a "complete" massage, which I was kind enough to decline. He dropped me at my accommodation, and I was met by the security guard as the reception office had closed.

The security guard showed me to my room, and along the way, offered to arrange a "complete massage" or a program (ie. tour package). After dropping my stuff off at my nicely decorated room, I walked next door to the "K" convenience store to get some water. Along the 10-feet of sidewalk to get there, I was offered drugs. I was getting quite the introduction to Bali. The convenience store was blasting Guns 'N Roses. They were out of the cheap 1.5 liter bottles of water (about $0.30 apiece), so I had to cough up a bit more than $1 for Evian. I returned back to my room, and was out like a light.

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PS - for all those that voted for me to splurge on a nicer than normal accommodation since reaching the 200 subscriber mark, this was it! And it only cost $24/night, including free breakfast, towel, soap, and toilet paper!

...And I'm Off To Bali

Journal Entry from January 29 @ 5:41pm -
I'm at the airport ready to board a 6-hour flight to Bali. The Lonely Planet speaks of $5 massages on the beach, personal bungalows with ocean views, $1 meals and beers, and beautiful sunsets with friendly travelers and locals alike. Sounds perfect!

I'll miss the cappuccinos, cafes, accents, and ease of travel in Australia. It has come at a high cost ($$$). In exchange, I always had Western toilets, relatively safe surroundings, and most of the comforts of home. I think I'm not yet prepared for the culture shock I'm about to experience in Indonesia. Being polite (as usual) should help cover for any blatant ignorance of local customs - at least until I get my bearings. And then it will be time to leave again.

Staying for short periods in these various countries is good practice for non-attachment to say the least. I've found my final thoughts on each country help me deal better with the departures.

Final Thoughts: Australia

Kangaroos, surfing, and the Outback were all I knew of Australia before I visited in January. I quietly hoped it would surprise me, and as you'll see below, there were no shortage of favorite moments!

Highlights -

couchsurfing with Ben in Brisban
doing nothing in Byron Bay (and watching Green Street Hooligans)
4x4 safari on Fraser Island (and swimming in freshwater Lake McKenzie)
surf lesson in Agnes Water (and watching Bra Boys)
impromptu porch party at Magnum Backpackers in Airlie Beach
sailing the Whitsundays (and getting to steer the yacht)
first SCUBA dive
staying with Michael and Ann in Trinity Beach
hugging a Koala Bear at the Cairns Tropical Zoo
snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef
Sydney FC vs. Melbourne Victory soccer match at Aussie Stadium
sipping wine outside the Opera House with the Germans - Andy and Constantine
the views at Bondi Beach (and the cliff walk to Coogee)
couchsurfing with Bonnie, Tom, and Eliza in Newtown
hot milk chocolate at the Lindt chocolat cafe
watching the 2008 Australian Open Men's Singles Final on the jumbo screen outside Rod Laver stadium
taking in the amazing architecture (modern and Victorian) around Melbourne

Discoveries -

Australia may well have the prettiest blonde women in the world (I'll keep you posted as I have to give California and Sweden a fair shot)
Australians love their designer sunglasses (aka "sunnies")
Australians love to drink beer
like New Zealand, mixed liqour drinks are sold in cans and commonly consumed (rum and cokes, gin and tonics, etc), yet I didn't manage to try them in one month's time
it rains a lot in Queensland during the summer

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

4 - two in Brisbane and two in Newtown. I also spent 2 nights with a friend's relative in Trinity Beach, 2 nights aboard a sailboat, 1 night on Fraser Island, and 2 nights aboard buses. Couchsurfing was tough due to high demand, and the holidays (New Year's in early January and Australia day later in the month).

Eating -

Heaps of chocolate, one plate of nicely prepared kangaroo, meat pies, gelato, ham and cheese sandwiches, and almost daily cappuccinos.

Average Daily Budget -

$98

Dare #4 - Completed - Devour Aussie Burger With the Lot

Dare #4

From Stu: I dare you to get a hamburger with the lot in Australia from a real fish and chip shop (that encompasses the following ingredients)

- fried egg (hard yolk/soft yolk optional)
- bacon
- lettuce
- tomato
- beetroot
- grilled onion
- cheese
- grilled pineapple ring

Must include two steamed dim sims with soy sauce as a side. Must include photo.

Reward: $10

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This burger was massive - and literally the last meal I ate in Australia before heading to the Melbourne airport. I made the mistake of pouring the soy sauce all over the dim sim, which made a real mess of things once I commenced the eating portion of the process.

The 2008 Australian Open - Men's Singles Final

I booked my departure flight from Australia out of Melbourne for the end of January because it seemed like a noteworthy city to visit. It was only after talking to my tennis fiend of a friend (code name - Sup2dresq) before leaving that I learned my travels would offer me the opportunity to attend the 2008 Australian Open, one of the four major tennis tournaments of the year.

In fact, my friend offered to cover the cost of a Grounds Pass to ensure I got myself to Rod Laver stadium for the men's singles final. My hostel was close enough to the tennis complex that I could walk to get there. I headed to the stadium a few hours before the 7:30pm start time so I could do a little exploring. I wasn't alone, as the best spots for watching the match on the jumbo screen outside the stadium were already taken up by people on blankets and plastic chairs. A band was entertaining them on a small stage.

As I walked around the grounds, peering into the locked gates of smaller tennis courts, I realized how much fun it would've been to have caught earlier matches. Even in the early rounds, the best players would be in the Rod Laver and Vodafone stadiums, costing more to see, however the air would be electric with the various fan favorites still alive and in the running (mine being American Andy Roddick).

Eventually, I settled into a spot behind the footpath directly in front of the jumbo screen. Once the band stopped, lots of plastic chairs became available and I instantly upgraded myself from asphalt to plastic. Once situated, I queued up for some overpriced sushi and Jacob's Creek white wine.

The fan favorite seemed to be Tsonga from France, though there was no shortage of Serbian supporters and flags for Djokovic. Considering he beat the world's #1 player for the past few years (R. Federer) and the #2 player to reach the finals, he seemed to be hands-down favorite to win the tournament.

Score

A beautiful sunset transitioned the environment from day to night, and try as they might to support Tsonga, it just wasn't his match to win. After taking the first set, he fell in the next three with the 4th set tie-break providing palpable moments of tension. By then, I had abandoned my front row seat for a little cool air in the stadium. The inside was plastered with plasma screen TV's so you wouldn't miss a point while getting refreshments. The only catch was if you had a stadium seat, you couldn't go back in while play was occurring.

After the match concluded, I walked back to Federation Square, a few blocks from my hostel. It was packed with people who had watched the match on the jumbo screen there. As I walked by, Djokovic was triumphantly accepting his trophy with an acceptance speech thanking all the Serbian supporters.

Well played Djokovic, and special thanks to Sup2dresq for helping me to experience my first tennis tournament!

Indulgence At The Lindt Chocolat Cafe

On my last day in Sydney, before a night bus to Melbourne, Bonnie took me on a ½ day tour which included a few errands she needed to run. The second brought us to the Lindt Chocolat Cafe in the central business district. Almost 2 months after rediscovering Cadbury candy, my veins were running with pure milk chocolate.

Bonnie recommended the hot chocolate, so we ordered two cups, along with 3 truffles we each selected from the counter. When the hot chocolate arrived, it was literally a cup of melted Lindt milk chocolate, and a separate pitcher of creamy milk which you poured into the cup. And to top it off, we were eating truffles! Yes, this was the richest, creamiest, hot chocolate I've ever experienced. Brilliant!

We tried to walk off the chocolate by touring The Rocks, a historic district of Sydney along the harbor. Bonnie use to lead tours in the area so I was surely seeing the best views and spots. I was exhausted from the cold and Sudafed, and not looking forward to the 11-hour overnight bus ride to Melbourne, so I quit while I was ahead, and returned to her place for a short nap before packing up to leave.

Couchsurfing Newtown and Getting Sick

Bonnie was new to couchsurfing, and I was her third guest. She worked in Sydney, and lived with Tom and Eliza in Newtown, a very close suburb to downtown Sydney. It's also right next to the University of Sydney, so it's got a college town feel to it. Supposedly it has one of the highest concentrations of Thai restaurants in the southern hemisphere, however despite the endless cheap lunch options ($4 for Thai - yum!), I wouldn't get to take advantage.

I arrived on Bonnie's doorstep and she made me feel right at home. It felt great to escape the hostels, especially as I was just about to come down with a cold which would put me out of commission for a few days.

Bonnie was also hosting a Japanese guy at the time I was there. He did musical street performances and could juggle. That's about all I can remember. Oh, and he makes a great pizza.

Surf's Up at Bondi Beach

After an afternoon at the Opera House, my next day in Sydney was dedicated to checking out Bondi Beach. It was a short train and bus ride to get there from King's Cross, and the weather was beautiful. When I got off the bus, I was looking at one of the coolest beaches I'd ever seen. Gigantic surf pounded rocks on both ends, while the best surfers I'd seen tackled some big looking waves. And the beach was topless, not that I noticed.

A popular scenic walk runs from Bondi Beach south to Coogee Beach. I wore sneakers for the task, and didn't wear my board shorts so swimming in the cool ocean-fed pool wasn't an option. Instead, I used one of my coupons on a free glass of cold white wine from the balcony of the Iceberg Club (can't recall the exact name).

I then commenced the walk, which seemed easy enough, however under the hot, mid-day Australian sun, with a hangover, it sucked the lifeforce out of me. After passing 3 intermediary beaches before reaching Coogee, I could've cared less about another damn beach! So I jumped on a bus back to Bondi Junction, too tired to explore any further, and grabbed a train back to King's Cross, ready to make my way west to Newtown for my next couchsurf.

The Opera House and Another Night Out

The rains of Queensland were a thing of the past by the time I reached Sydney (and later Melbourne). Aside from a thunderstorm during the soccer match, my days were filled with blue skies and puffy white clouds.

I felt a great sense of excitement when I first stepped out of the train station to see the Opera House and Harbor Bridge. The Opera House is such a unique sight - often symbolizing all of Australia. I had joined up with a few Germans back at my hostel and together we snapped heaps of photos and enjoyed the various views of the harbor and Sydney skyline.

Sydney was really starting to grow on me by this point, and I was thinking to myself that if there was a city I could move to for awhile, it'd be Sydney. It felt like New York City, except people weren't in as much of a rush. Also, for the first time, I was clearly surrounded by Australians instead of the multitudes of international tourists. Australian women, in particular the blondes, were a sight to be seen!

After the sights, I booked my onward flight from Bali to Singapore (w/Jetstar, $110 USD incl. taxes). I settled on 3 weeks in Bali (and nearby island Lombok). I know the vast majority of voters wanted me to stay 10 days so I could move on to new adventures. My tight itineraries in the first 2 months, combined with New Zealand's physical activities and Australia's sheer size have sapped my travel energy. I'm hoping some hammock time on a tropical island will ready me for mainland Asia in the months ahead.

I went out again in the evening with folks from the hostel, including Andy with whom I had toured the exterior of the Opera House. World Bar was a few steps above Scubar, reminding me of the 18th Street Lounge in Washington, DC except bigger. It was housed in a Victorian Building in King's Cross, a few blocks from the hostel. Karaoke was in the back room, a DJ in the front room, and quieter mainstream music on the top floor. While our entertainment guide was getting busy with an older lady from the hostel, another guide from a different hostel was encouraging me to dance. He was funny, and got me moving a bit. If I were to stay longer, I'd have switched hostels because the guy did such a good job with his crew.

Despite the lack of dancing, I had a beer and 3 vodka tonics for about $7 USD. The deals at certain bars, along with a booklet of 15 free drink coupons that are available, can really make for cheap nights in Sydney.

The Sights of Sydney - Queen Victoria Building and Darling Harbour

After catching a bit of sport at the soccer match, I spent the following day around the Darling Harbor area of Sydney.

The first stop was the Queen Victoria Building which I ran into almost as soon as I got off the train.

Normally a shopping mall wouldn't be a must-see for me, however, the exterior design drew me in and I found the interior to be even cooler with its mosaic floors.

I grabbed a cup of cappuccino and watched well-dressed women with designer bags walk past ridiculously expensive stores.

After the mall, I headed to the harbor. The overcast skies soon rained down on me.

I decided to skip the tourist activities requiring money - the aquarium, the world's largest IMAX theater, etc.

There were orange flags throughout the downtown area as Australia Day was quickly approaching.

It's a national holiday to celebrate the founding of Australia by Europeans and seems to be akin to America's July 4th.

Basically, it's an excuse to have a BBQ, beer, and a 3-day weekend.

I finished my afternoon's stroll with a walk through Chinatown.

Paddy's Markets were closed, and I wouldn't make it back to them. It's an Irish-themed street market with lots of cheap goods.

After 24 hours in Sydney, I started to feel like I could be in the United States. It felt comfortable.

The transit system was extensive, yet the information was well communicated.

I was impressed by the LCD screens in the train stops which seemed light years ahead of the LED displays we just recently got in Washington, DC.

In the evening, I went out with some people from my hostel to Scubar.

Our hostel had an entertainment guide whose job it was to take backpackers out to a different bar each night with the promise of a free drink.

I think it's a way to welcome all the foreigners who come to Sydney and Australia with the intention to stick around and work.

Scubar was a basement bar frequented by backpackers, and it was a mess of drunken people.

Somehow I managed to enjoy it for a few beers before heading back to home base - King's Cross.

Sydney FC vs. Melbourne Victory

I caught a glimpse of the Australian A-League soccer schedule when I was couchsurfing with Ben in Brisbane. I had noticed Sydney FC had a home game around the time I'd be there so I picked a flight from Cairns that would give me a fighting chance to see it live.

After checking into Original Backpackers in the King's Cross area of Sydney, I decided to hurry my way over to Aussie Stadium for the match. I waited in a special events bus queue that got me to the stadium (adjacent to the cricket grounds), and then another 20 minutes under the blazing sun to get tickets (about $25 USD).

My seating area was general admission which worked out fine even though I was late. Sydney scored within the 10-minute mark. Melbourne answered back, and a tit-for-tat resulted in a 2-2 tie. Sydney had already clinched a playoff spot (there are only 8 teams in the 3-year old league, with the top 4 going to the semifinals). The skill level was comparable to Major League Soccer, though the crowd was much larger. They had a regular season record 33,000 in attendance.

The Sydney fans covered the entire section behind the goal in the photo above. Melbourne had a smaller, though quite vocal, showing at the opposite end. Every time a goal was scored, signal flares and smoke bombs were lit. The security would then jump into the stands and remove the flares. Sydney supporters had some big flags, and most were dressed in their team's light blue jersey. It reminded me of going to DC United games at home.

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