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6 Tips for Reaching the Greek Islands

The Greek Islands have been luring travelers since Ulysses made his meandering way home to Ithaca from Troy. The beauty of the Aegean Sea, "wine-dark" in the greater depths but translucent turquoise in shallow waters along the shore, combined with the whitewashed buildings that glow in the fantastic Mediterranean sunlight, creates an unforgettable sight.

Church of the Martyrs, Kastro
Church of the Martyrs, Kastro, Siphnos

But the traveler's first questions are how to choose among the islands and how to get there. Each of Greece's approximately 100 habitable islands will show you a different personality. If you only have time for a day trip to the Greek Islands, try the tiny Saronic islands near Athens.

Have you got a little longer? Consider sailing in the Saronic Gulf to explore the beautiful islands of Poros, Spetses, and Hydra. Booking a Saronic yacht charter is a relaxing and stylish option. The largest island, Crete, and the capital, Heraklion, take the longest to get to but are well worth the trip.

Santorini, one of the many beautiful Greek Islands
Santorini Caldera View

At the northern end of the central Cyclades island group, Mykonos has resorts, crowds, nightlife, beautiful villages, and the archaeological site of Delos.

The famous Santorini is at the south end of the island group, nearer Crete. Its dramatic volcano shell, with whitewashed villages clinging to the black and red lava cliffs, represents Greece in many travel books and articles.

Sailing into the caldera of Santorini ranks as the most breathtaking moment I have experienced in the Greek Islands. If you go, fly out if you must, but take the ferry during the day to arrive.

Greek ferries range from rusty old tubs (fewer these days, thankfully) to sleek jetboats. The jet boats and hydrofoils get you there fast but don't cope well with high winds and waves, so the weather may stop them before the slow ferries.

If you're uncertain about where to go and what to explore, you can delve into Greece tours that provide curated experiences. These tours often highlight the best of what the country offers, making it easier for travelers to enjoy their journey without the guesswork.

Greek Islands Travel Advice

1. Ferry Reservations

Although you can reserve online, I recommend you don't. Instead, wait until you get to Athens and go to one of the multitudes of tourist agencies around Syntagma Square or near the port at Piraeus.

You cannot guarantee that the schedule you saw online will be the one on the day you sail. Schedules for the Greek Islands are set weekly. While they probably will go on the same hours they did last week, month, or year, there is no guarantee. Don't worry; they are not going to run out of tickets.

2. Ferry Schedule

The Greek National Tourism Office puts out a weekly ferry schedule. If you can find their office, pick up a copy because if the line the travel agent represents does not sail today, they will not tell you about another line that does go today.

3. Booking Accommodation

Because of the whimsical nature of ferry schedules, it is best not to guarantee room rental. Unless you go to the islands in July or August, which is a terrible idea as it's the peak tourism season and, therefore, more expensive, you will not need a reservation in advance.

4. Ferry Reliability

NEVER count on a ferry, even a high-speed one, to get you back to Athens on the same day you fly home. Give yourself a day or even two in Athens before your departure.

5. Avoiding Crowds

If you yearn for less-visited Greek Islands, remember that the fewer visitors, the smaller the population, and the less frequent the ferries are.

6. Embrace the Culture

Think of all this uncertainty about schedules as your crash course in Greek culture, and instead of getting uptight about it, shrug and say, "Endaxi." (Okay.)

___

Photographs by Vera Marie Badertscher. All rights reserved.

Now Available: Free Dare Me! eBook

Dare Me! Off the wall adventures from a RTW trip

Free eBook

During my 'round the world trip from 2007-2009, I entertained 17 dares from family, friends, and readers in exchange for free beer and cash donations.

"Dare Me!" is a compilation of all the bets I received and what happened when I tried to win them.  From the simply embarrassing to the death-defying and disgusting, there's sure to be a dare that makes you laugh, or cringe.

In addition to the original text, I've added extra commentary and new photos, plus the chance to win $30 in my own dare to YOU!

There are two ways to receive your free copy of "Dare Me!"

1 - Subscribe to GoBackpacking via RSS reader or e-mail. A download link for the eBook will be included at the bottom of every post for at least the next 30 days.  In addition to an entertaining eBook, new blog posts will be delivered straight to your virtual doorstep.  Existing subscribers can simply click on the download link at the bottom of this post.

2 - Subscribe to GoBackpacking's new, twice-monthly newsletter. Simply click this link or enter your first name and e-mail address in the boxes to the top right of this post.  The first newsletter will be sent later this week, and will include highlights from the last few weeks of GoBackpacking, as well as links to other great travel-related articles, stories, and interviews from around the web.  In the future, I also intend to share stories and advice which will not appear on the blog.

Friday Flashback - World Heritage Sites In Kathmandu Valley

Monkey at Swayambunath Stupa
Monkey at Swayambhunath Stupa

At the rate I'm going with flashbacks, I'll be stuck in Nepal forever, but truth be told, the little Himalayan country holds a special place in my heart.

Here are the posts I wrote after visits to 4 of the 7 World Heritage sites in the Kathmandu Valley:

Kathmandu's Durbar Square (cool architecture)

Touring Swayambhunath Stupa (aka the Monkey Temple, plenty of prayer flags)

Patan's Durbar Square Sans Camera

Hinduism's Holy Pashupatinath Temple (Kama Sutra carving, public cremations, hermits)

Next week's flashback will be dedicated to a 5th World Heritage site, and one of my favorite places in the entire world.

Trip Advice: South Africa, Swaziland, Namibia, Botswana

Editor's Note: The following information was submitted to me in 2000 by Alexander, a traveler. Having visited South Africa and Botswana in 2008, his tips and warnings remain valid. The photos are mine.

Sunrise mokoro ride - Okavango Delta, Botswana
Sunrise mokoro ride - Okavango Delta, Botswana

I lived in Southern Africa, including South Africa, until 1995, and traveled extensively throughout the entire region. Also, I visited South Africa, Swaziland, Namibia, and Botswana last April. There are many group travel options available; however, this article primarily focuses on information for individual travelers.

Africa Travel Advice

Getting There

The price of air tickets varies significantly, and one must shop around. We found a Chinese travel agency in Toronto and paid $1,150 Canadian for the round-trip ticket with a Dutch airline. Plus, we arrived in Johannesburg and were allowed to depart from Cape Town.

Hostels

South Africa and Swaziland: As backpackers, we stayed in international hostels for about $10 Canadian per night per person (it's a bit of a myth that they only have bunk beds). Mostly, we had our own bathroom. Usually, we book on the same day, but not always, and we were never turned away.

One can benefit from hostels also by meeting other international travelers, and we made friends from all over the world. Additionally, since their interest is not in conducting business, information on places they have visited can prove very valuable.

I don't quite see the difference in comfort between bed and breakfasts (BBs) and hostels, but there are plenty of small, family-owned guesthouses.

Botswana and Namibia

Hotels can cost $100 Canadian and above, but there are also guesthouses and hostels available.

Car Rental

Initially, we considered booking from Canada, but we did not receive good offers. Therefore, we booked through a Johannesburg hostel and rented a fully insured, small Toyota hatchback for Rand 250 per day with unlimited kilometers.

Weather

April and May are excellent months to visit the area. Usually, the summer rains are over (we had two days of rain shortly after our arrival, followed by three weeks of sunny weather).

The temperatures are typically around 22 to 27 degrees Celsius. May evenings tend to be cool, and having a sweater or jacket on hand is advisable.

Male lions - Kruger Park, South Africa
Male lions - Kruger Park, South Africa

Scenery and Parks

Although most parts are semi-arid bushveld, there is still an enormous diversity: South Africa's southern and eastern Cape, as well as Swaziland, are partly very lush. 

Botswana and many other parts are dry, but one can experience an outright Sahara-like desert in Namibia, mountains in many parts of South Africa, including some snow on the top of the Drakensberg (Dragon Mountains) near Lesotho, and savanna in the Karoo. Nature lovers will get their fill. Western South Africa is uninteresting.

Visiting the Kruger National Park is simply a must, but it requires a few days' stay and patience to find all the animals, as they are not on display. We saw elephants, rhinos, hippos, leopards, cheetahs, and the rest. The lions eluded us, but we only stayed there for one night. 

The park is well-run, and one can stay in bungalows or camp. Restaurants and picnic areas are plentiful. The signs "Do Not Leave The Car" should be taken seriously. Every park is safe if travelers adhere to the rules.

The roads are excellent, and the whole park is accessible by any 2-wheel drive. However, for people like me, Kruger is a bit too tame.

I lived in Botswana for a while and worked in the Chobe National Park, where I helped out conducting tours for individual travelers. This park is the real Africa, but it requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle.

Sunsets at the Chobe River are second to none, and in the morning, one can watch herds of 40 to more elephants. Incidentally, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor remarried at the Chobe Lodge, a costly establishment (ranging from $200 Canadian per night and upwards).

Attached are the Moremi Game Reserve and Savuti, which is known for its lion population, and the Okavango swamps, also a must-see if one is in the area.

Our tents at Elephant Sands - Botswana
Our safari tents at Elephant Sands - Botswana

Staying in tents at night is safe as long as the tent is kept closed(!!!), i.e., zip-up! No animal will break into a closed tent.

The main problems of city slickers are that they walk too fast in the bush. Under normal circumstances, no animal, including lions, will ever attack a human being. Yes, there are snakes, but if you walk at leisure and give animals time to get out of your way, they will do so.

If Namibia is on the menu, one can find some flora that doesn't exist anywhere else. An extremely rugged and beautiful country.  Interesting are the Namib Desert in the South, the Fish River Canyon, but every other part is a unique experience too.

South African Cities To Visit and Stay Away From

After experiencing a traumatic past, parts of South Africa are experiencing severe economic problems that are most visible in the Rand area (Greater Johannesburg), with up to 50% of Africans unemployed. 

It is the world's crime city number one, and neither safe during the day nor at night. The inner city is an absolute "NO GO" at any time, and, frankly, nothing is missed.

[Editor's Note: In 2008, I did a few small, organized day tours in Johannesburg to visit the Apartheid Museum, Soweto township, and the top of Africa's tallest building. While it is still dangerous, I recommend spending a day or two exploring if you're passing through.

Since international flights end in Johannesburg, it cannot be avoided entirely, but one should make arrangements to be picked up from the airport. 

There is a tourist office in the arrival hall where one can book a room from a hostel to a hotel, and even some hostels offer pickup services for their guests. 

There are also car rental agencies, but I suggest renting a car once you are at the hotel; i.e., one can get a better price.

Coming from North America, it takes two nights to get there, and one night on the return flight. 

There is nothing to see in Johannesburg, so one night might be ample enough. Durban used to be a fine city, but it is no longer safe there either. Not as bad as Johannesburg, I don't advise taking evening walks.

Although one must be cautious in any city (meaning don't be an obvious tourist and invite mugging), Cape Town, East London, and Port Elizabeth are as safe as any city in North America, and they are beautiful, especially Cape Town, with its rich history evident in its architecture.

All three are located on the coast, and their beaches are among the best.

Cape Town, Table Mountain, & Lions Head - South Africa
Cape Town, Table Mountain, & Lion's Head - South Africa

Fascinating inland cities include Pretoria, Ladysmith, Pietermaritzburg, and Rustenburg, located near Sun City and Lost City.

If in Namibia, visiting Windhoek with its German colonial architecture and traditional German Beer gardens, as well as Swakopmund with the same offerings, but set in the Namibian desert and along the coast, is a unique and unforgettable experience. Both cities are safe, as is the rest of Namibia.

Gaborone, the capital of Botswana, is an unappealing city, characterized by its dirtiness, overpriced accommodations, and generally safe environment, except for occasional theft. There is little to see in the city.

Swaziland's cities, Manzini and Mbabane, are safe and enjoyable, as is the entire country. As a kingdom, it has many traditional lifestyles to showcase, which one cannot experience in South Africa anymore, except on the tourist stage. 

Simply, although an island within South Africa, Swaziland is beautiful, definitely worth a visit, and within a day's drive from Johannesburg.

One country, another island within South Africa, which I purposely left out, is Lesotho. Although the Dragon Mountains cover all of it, it has been in turmoil for twenty years.  In my humble opinion, it is not worth a visit. 

[Editor's Note: In 2008, I enjoyed a day trip into Lesotho via the Sani Pass and would recommend a few days or nights there.]

Worthwhile visiting are the typical Afrikaner towns (of Dutch origin) in the Cape and Natal. They are, likewise, a unique experience.

Useful Foreign Phrases

Tis the season for new travel books, and they're piling up faster than I can read them.  My most recent receipt is "The Third Tower Up from the Road: A Compilation of Columns from McSweeney's Internet Tendency" by Kevin Dolgin.

These are humorous sketches of over 50 world cities by a guy who travels for mysterious reasons. Dolgin is a New York City expat living in Paris who speaks three languages.  While it will be another month or two before I post a review of the book, I did read a funny excerpt which I have permission to share here.

" Useful Foreign Phrases"?

by Kevin Dolgin

Long ago, I determined that there are three broad categories of linguistic fluency. The first is the perfectly comfortable level, ranging from your native language to any language in which you can converse with ease, although at the lower end of this scale you probably have a headache at the end of the day.

The second category consists of those languages in which you can generally make yourself understood with the aid of sweeping gestures and meaningful grimaces.

The third category comprises languages that are a complete mystery to you.

I'm fortunate to have three languages in the first category and one or two more in the second. This means, though, that every other language is in the third category. I have a theory about these. For me, these languages are either/or affairs. If you travel to a country in which the principle language is a category III language, then either you work on it enough to get it to category II, or you learn only how to say " please,"? " thank you,"? " excuse me,"? and one phrase that is perfectly nonsensical.

The principle reason for the nonsensical phrase is that it's a sure conversation-opener. No one will imagine that the only thing you know how to say in their language is " My hovercraft is full of eels,"? (to borrow someone else's nonsensical phrase) and therefore an immediate cultural exchange will ensue. Really, this works.

I thought I would give you a number of these, in case you plan on traveling to countries with category III languages. I've given them to you in the languages in which I use them, but you can use the same nonsensical phrase in a variety of languages, and I confess that I have learned the first phrase I cite in four or five different languages, ranging from the original Swedish to Cantonese.

I'll also point out that for the most part, I'm not trying to spell these words properly. I'm using approximate spellings, as if they were spelled the way one would expect (or at least the way I would expect), and not with silly squiggles and such. I'm doing this because the last time I tried to write something in Swedish in a column (about Ingrid the intelligent rat), I was informed via email that I had not gotten it right at all, so I'm not even going to attempt it any more.

Enough of the preliminaries; let's get to the useful phrases.

" My hedgehog isn't stupid."? In Swedish: " Min igelkot e inte dum."?

This was my first nonsensical category III phrase. I used to hang around with a Swede, who decided to teach me some of the language, which was a thoroughly frustrating exercise for us both. Eventually he gave up and suggested: " Learn to say "˜Min igelkot e inte dum' and no one will expect it's the only thing you can say."? I therefore learned this and we tested it out on a couple of friends of his who came from Göteborg to visit. When I met them I rose, shook their hands, explained about my hedgehog, and smiled. They looked very surprised and started speaking rapid Swedish to me. I protested, explaining that this was all I knew, which they refused to believe, and a long conversation ensued (in English), which quickly veered toward more interesting topics. Hence was born my theory about nonsensical phrases.

This phrase has served me well and long; I even employed it when giving a speech to 350 Swedes, with much the same effect (at a ski resort in the middle of Sweden, but that's a story for another column). The most convincing example, however, did not occur in Sweden at all, but in Massachusetts, of all places.

I was in a bar one evening with a couple of Americans and a very unusual Argentine who had a French name and lived in Mexico. He was part pharmaceutical executive, part fashion photographer, and part party organizer, and he had been telling us a highly embarrassing story about an incident involving fifty cardiologists, an airport security system, and a nipple ring (I won't get into the details, but it ended with his assertion that it would have been much worse had he been wearing his other body jewelry).

Anyway, at that point, a young man entered the bar accompanied by two young ladies. They had apparently stepped in out of a commercial for the World Wrestling Federation, because he was certainly built like a member of that esteemed organization, and was glowering as well. For all I know, he was indeed a wrestler "” " Nick the Neanderthal"? or something.

He looked around the bar, and disappointment registered on his prominent brow ridges, probably because there weren't enough people around to admire his upper arms and the women clinging to them. The three of them sat near us and ordered something (champagne for the girls, warm blood for him). We ignored them and continued our revelry.

Before long, the wrestler muttered something, ostensibly for the benefit of his companions, calling into question the masculinity, or at least the heterosexuality, of our Argentine friend, who luckily didn't understand it (he was just crazy enough to challenge this guy to a duel or something). I therefore hastily took the floor in our little group and began expounding on my theory about category III languages and nonsensical statements (see above). In the course of explaining this, I taught them all how to say " Min igelkot e inte dum."?

Immediately, the two girls sitting with fireplug-man squealed, leaned over, and said, " Din igelkot e inte dum!?"? Then they started speaking in rapid Swedish. I stopped them, explaining that this was all I could say, they didn't believe me etc. The normal routine.

They left their companion and came to join us, asking all the while about how I had learned to say this, and who we were, and what we planned on doing later that evening. Needless to say, this annoyed the inert mass of muscle with whom they had entered the bar, but he was too confused to do anything about it except to grunt " let's go"? to them. They replied with what I assume is a Swedish insult, and he left, after making a rude gesture at us all.

" There is a penguin in my closet."? In German: " Es gibt ein Pinguin auf meinem Schrank."?

German is, in fact, more of a category II language for me, but it's pretty low on the scale, and besides, this is a great phrase to use in German. I particularly recommend it for hotels, if you'd like to get to know the staff. This will also provide you with an introduction to the word " bitte,"? which will inevitably be the response of any German to this phrase. Bitte is a great word. It can mean many things, depending on the intonation. It can mean " please"? or " thank you"? or " are you out of your mind?"?

Needless to say, it's in the latter sense that it's generally employed when responding to the phrase " there's a penguin in my closet."? Of course, you don't want to be nasty, you need to explain rapidly to the hotel staff that there is not, in fact, a penguin in your closet, and that you were just employing your single phrase of German. If you do not explain this quickly, them being German, they will dutifully send someone to remove the penguin from your closet, and that would not be a very nice thing to do to the cleaning staff.

" I would like a large chessboard."? In Spanish: " Quiero un gran tablero de ajedres."?

This actually began as a useful phrase, since I really did want to buy a large chessboard (in Toledo, if I remember correctly, which is a beautiful city that you should definitely visit). I wandered around asking for large chessboards, and did indeed end up buying one (upon which I regularly play). However, I have since employed it as a nonsensical category III phrase.

This has come in handy in a number of instances. One comes to mind from an evening in Barcelona (which reminds me that I'll have to write about Barcelona soon how I love Barcelona!). I was having dinner on the terrace of one of the delightful restaurants near the navy museum, on the harbor. I was alone, which is unfortunate in a city like Barcelona. Anyway, the waiter was a very pleasant gentleman who spoke to me in Catalan, and then in Spanish. I speak neither, and I explained this to him in slow Italian, but then told him that I wanted a large chessboard in Spanish. He was perplexed, he shook his head and pointed at the menu, apparently reiterating that this was a restaurant and that chessboards were not food. I tried again to explain, in Italian, that this was all I could say. He eventually understood and was intrigued.

It was a slow night in the restaurant, and the waiter, who it turns out was an avid chess player, sat down after a while and we engaged in a spirited conversation about chess (specifically about the king's gambit opening), in a mix of Catalan, Spanish, and Italian. A wonderful evening.

" Is that a kind of frog?"? In Japanese: " Koreiwa kairu no ishu des ka?"?

The whole " koreiwa [thing] no ishu des ka?"? construction can be very useful. For instance, if you replace " kairu,"? meaning frog, with " sakana,"? meaning fish, then you can pretty much know what can and can't be eaten in Japan, which is handy, since you can't even make the usual supposition that things must first be dead, let alone cooked, before you eat them. If it's a kind of fish, though, then you can eat it, even if it's trying to swim or crawl away. However, the frog phrase will get you more conversational mileage, at least partially because the answer is rarely " Yes, that is a kind of frog."? (" Hai, korewai kairu no ishu des."?)

This particular phrase has actually proved most useful to me in Paris. I once saw a young Japanese man standing on a street corner on the boulevard Sevastopol, studying a tourist map. He had a backpack on, and sewed onto the backpack was a cartoon character that seemed to be a kind of frog. With no introduction I said, " Sumimasen [excuse me], koreiwa kairu no ishu des ka?"? This was one of the few times that I have actually been able to stun a Japanese person. " Hai! [yes],"? he replied. I nodded significantly and walked away.

It should also be added that the way one comes out with the words is important in Japanese. If you are a man, you should spit the syllables out as though you were expelling vile-tasting marbles from your mouth. If you are a woman, you should murmur them demurely, while behind them you suppress something between a giggle and a plea. I confess that I would hate to have to be a woman in Japan.

" I love you; I want to spend my life with you."? In French: " Je t'aime; je veux passer ma vie avec toi."?

French is a category I language for me, and this is hardly a nonsensical phrase, but I thought I should include this one all the same, not for its shock or conversational value, but rather because it's possible that if you live abroad for a while you may end up needing it. Of course, by that time, I assume French (or whatever the language of your host country might be) would be category I for you as well, but you should be warned about this one either way. I suggest you think twice before saying it "” use the utmost discretion, because it can have a profound effect on your life. However, if used in the right circumstances, and especially with the right person, then I can tell you from personal experience that this phrase is capable of bringing you unspeakable joy.

You can find more of Kevin at these sites:

McSweeney's Internet Tendencies - Kevin Dolgin Tells You About Places You Should Go In Europe

Kevin Dolgin - the author's simple, biographical website

The Blog of Kevin Doglin (collaboration - news of intelligent travel commentary from around the web)

Friday Flashback - Whitewater Rafting & Camping Trip

Rest break en route to the the river
Rest break en route to the the river

In Nepal, I had my pick of the rivers.  From day trips to 10-day expeditions, costs were low by western standards and opportunities for adrenaline rushes were high. 

With only two day trips to my credit, I decided to go with a 3-day trip on the holy Kali Gandaki River, which included a few Class IV rapids, in addition to many Class III's and lesser.

Rafting Nepal's Kali Gandaki River highlights the adventure from Pokhara, to the river campsites, and back again.

Interview - An American Expat In Costa Rica

Astrid, Casey (middle) and me in Medellin
Astrid, Casey (middle) and me in Medellin

I met Casey during my last week in Colombia. 

More than a decade earlier, he had left the United States to start his own business in Central America, which surprised me considering how he seemed about my age!

In the interview below, he talks about his move to Costa Rica after college, how the country has changed since he arrived, why a trip to Panama should be on your bucket list, and his first impressions of Medellin.

GB:  Describe your first experience traveling outside the United States.

Casey: My first ever trip abroad was a family vacation to Aruba. I loved it.

Speaking terrible Spanish with Venezuelan tourists, I was very intrigued by the idea of travel abroad, but this visit to a touristy strip of white sand was hardly a real indoctrination into a culture.

My first solo effort was when I studied abroad in San Sebastian, Spain. That was the clincher.

I was the only gringo for miles and professors at my university turned my classes into anti-U.S. rants for my benefit.

I was hooked and wanting more. I only worked for one year in the U.S. upon graduation, then moved to Costa Rica to start my own biz.

GB:  How long have you been living in Costa Rica, and what lead you there?

Casey: I moved in 1998. I can't remember the exact moment when or why I decided on Costa Rica, but at my first and only job, I did some research on the then-very-clunky Internet to see where I felt there were opportunities in Latin America that might suit my web marketing skillset.

I looked into Argentina, Venezuela, Mexico, and Costa Rica. In hindsight, I'm very lucky I chose Costa Rica.

GB:  How has tourism in Costa Rica changed during your time there?

Casey: Massively. The changes I've seen in just over a decade are astonishing. Once quiet beach towns are not thriving tourist destinations.

Some have changed for the worse, with crime, pollution, and prostitution run amok.

The type of tourists who visit now are also different, following a natural and well-documented curve that starts with trend-setting adventurers and ends with those types who complain if even the most remote resort doesn't have U.S. grade-A steak and CNN. 

I cannot complain since my company has benefited directly from the masses arriving in Costa Rica, but it has also given me insight into just how important it is for countries to carefully plan their tourism infrastructure, building codes, enviro-regulations, etc.

GB:  What do you appreciate most about living and working in Central America?

Casey: The fact that just about any good idea, well-executed, can work. Competition is weak for those who are willing to dig in and work hard.

I also enjoy the fact that most natives to the region force we gringos to look at life differently, slow down a bit and enjoy the moment. 

This change of pace and mindset is also probably the most documented negative for many expats and I have my moments too...but the randomness of life here makes things so much more interesting, I'd hate to be without it.

GB:  Why is Panama a "must see" destination for travelers?

Casey: Several reasons:

1. Native Cultures -- Panama is one of the few Latin countries with thriving native cultures. 

There are 8 indigenous tribes here, many of whom are living a simplistic lifestyle that hasn't changed in a hundred years.

2. History -- Few countries can compare to the rich history, past, and near-present, of Panama. 

From the Spanish Colonial days with regular visits by pirates like Henry Morgan, to the country's fascinating separation from Colombia (due in part to Teddy Roosevelt and some Wall Street profiteers), The Canal, the U.S. military presence, Noriega and the U.S. invasion, it's a country with living history at every turn. 

Just seeing the Panama Canal in action and a few former military bases is an incredible site.

3. Local Traditions -- Panama's rich and diverse culture has been the catalyst for a bevy of traditions, from the beautiful to the bizarre.

Carnavales, a week-long celebration that is Panama's version of Mardis Gras, is probably the most famous.

4. Nature -- Most folks don't associate Panama with nature, and the country itself has done a poor job of protecting its resources, but even still the nation is surrounded by lush rain forest and is home to a treasure of bio-diversity. 

Nearly everything you can find in Costa Rica can be found here...and then some.

5. Be First -- As mentioned above, you can find most of what you'll encounter in Costa Rica...except hordes of tourists. 

Very often you may find yourself alone on a lovely hilltop or beach, wondering.."where are the tourists?" 

They're somewhere else, obviously...so enjoy it!

Salsa dancing in Medellin
Salsa dancing in Medellin

GB:  We met while you were visiting Medellin, Colombia for the first time.  What were your first impressions of the city and its people?

Casey: It was a really incredible trip, and I appreciate your being my guide on 2 occasions. 

What struck me first in Medellin was how lovely the city planning is in upscale parts of town, which makes Panama and Costa Rica look somewhat sad in comparison. 

The metro system is fantastic. The weather near-perfect. Of course, the women are nearly as lovely as the legends and overall the people are so darn polite. 

That's one element I really wish would rub off on Panama.

GB:  If you could wake up anywhere in the world tomorrow, where would it be?

Casey: I'm pretty content to wake up in Pedasi, Panama. That's where I have a B&B with my parents. 

It's really neat when we're all working there together, just like at my Dad's hardware store back in rural Pennsylvania...which I HATED :) 

The difference this time is that I get to boss my old man around, so that's fun.

Seriously though, I love being in the countryside of Panama where neighbors are neighborly, doors regularly go unlocked and beer is $.50. 

If I could press a button and be somewhere else, I'd like to zip down to Medellin more frequently and am itching to get back to Guatemala. What a magical place that is!

Trip Advice For Kenya

Preface:  I did some house cleaning around GoBackpacking in preparation for the launch of the new layout.  Any useful bits of information that had been stored in the corners of the castle are being dusted off and presented anew.  The following information was sent to me around 2000 by a traveler named Alexander.

Flight across Africa
Flight across Africa

Since we are all running on our stomachs here the kitchen first:

Kenya, among all the African countries has the richest variety of food to offer, in places ranging from high class restaurants to simple market stalls. You can eat European food there, east-Asian, south-Asian, African food, and what have you, and when I was there I gobbled up the lot.

In Nairobi you want to try steaks. Like in southern Africa, cattle run freely and are not fed with unpronounceable things. Hence, the original delicious taste of beef remains unchanged and I can tell you that is what I am missing most. In Mombassa and along the coast fresh fish is a must! Actually, we went deep sea fishing and brought our catch to the hotel where the chef prepared it for us. I also ate African food (did so for most of my life) and if you eat from stalls go by the worldwide rule "where the longest lines are it is best!"

You might also want to try game! I lived on the farm for a long time and we ate a lot of game; deer, of course, but if you want to try more exotic things, be our guest. It is available.

The restaurant "African Heritage" on Banda Street has developed African food to a cousine at, then, reasonable prices.

At the "Malindi Dishes" on Gaborone Road you get a good mix of Afro-East Indian food.

At the Kariokor Market you get the same food for less than a third from market stalls.

And if you really want seafood in Nairobi then "Alan Bobbe's Bistro" is the place.

(Yeah, well, I am one of the lucky ones. I can eat anything and never put on a pound.)

Kenya is a beer drinking country and the beer is truly very good! The best ones on the market are Tusker and White Cap. Try them.

1 word of precaution: Most digestive problems occur, because a battle between southern and northern bacteria cultures arises. I had problems when I came to North-America. Knowing your own stomach, you be the judge, but if you start taking medication a day or two before you leave your home country, you should have no problems and plenty of culinary fun. Also, African food is very delicious.

Nairobi, where you will most likely arrive if not in DarEs. I stayed at the 68 Hotel, downtown on Kenyatta Avenue. Very comfortable, but a bit pricey. Another hotel where I also stayed occasionally was the Fairview Hotel, which is still very comfortable, but less expensive. Like in the 1st world, you can find hotels at any range, including rooms at the YMCA. I would make arrangements for the first three nights or for the end of the journey to wind down a bit.

Although, Nairobi has something to offer, it is not worth staying for more than 2 full days.

Places to see in Nairobi:

The National Museum on Museum Hill - flora, fauna, prehistoric, tribal ceremonial; very much what Kenya has to offer.

The City Park has rare and beautiful plants, hedges, trees. Although, not dangerous during the daytime, it is more fun to go there with a male companion, lest you want to find one there.

The market on Muindi Mbingu Street.

Traditional dancing at Bomas of Kenya on Langata Road.

Again, a word of caution: There are thieves out there during the daytime and robbers at night. While I have never encountered a problem during the daytime (unlike Joh'burg), it is wise to take a taxi after sunset.

And now we go to my favored city Mombassa

Its old, its exotic, its beautifully degenerated, and it smells like the Orient resurrected, not always good, but sometimes very amazing. It actually consists of two cities and two harbors, of which - no problem guessing - the old city is the more exiting one. Mombassa's history goes back to before the birth of Christ and you will find 2,000 years of tradition there.

Again, the old harbor is the place to go to. There you can watch ocean going Arab Dhows (sailing ships) coming and leaving; yes, they are still in business and transport spices and other things to the Arabian peninsula.

If you want to see the remains of the Portuguese's attempt to take over, visit Fort Jesus.

Along Moi Road you get to the new city through an arch of metal elephant tusks. Worthwhile seeing there are the Indian Bazar, African Market in Mwembe Tayari (a city part), and the Hindu Temples.

Johnny Colt Rocks The Travel Channel

Muay Thai in Chiang Mai, Thailand

I think it was about 10 AM this Labor Day morning when I joined my parent's for breakfast, and decided to take control of the kitchen TV.  I stumbled across the start of a No Reservations episode set in Laos, which I had visited on my RTW trip last year.  After breakfast, and that episode, I realized it was a marathon day of Anthony Bourdain leading up to the season premiere tonight.

But first, this rock guy named Johnny Colt blasts onto the TV screen at 9 PM (EST) in the series premiere of At Full Volume.  The guy is covered in tattoos and the intro tells of his rock star life in bands such as the Black Crowes.  He was well spoken, and I took an immediate liking to him.  Yes, I was hooked after the first few minutes.  It appeared like this show was a derivative of No Reservations - just amplifying the rock star approach to travel.

The first episode was shot in Thailand, the first segment following Johnny and some Thai rock climbing instructors in Krabi.  Of course some of the funny footage was Johnny simply trying to get up the rope ladder hanging off the rock, let alone him trying to scale the sharp limestone rock face.

Next, handling poisonous snakes, followed by a segment about the construction of a Thai musical instrument, and then Johnny exposing the spiritual side of tattooing by getting the back of his head inked at a Buddhist monastery.

And for the finale, Muay Thai training and fighting which Johnny says he has practiced as well. But after seeing the Thai fighters in action first hand, we all knew he was going to get a whooping.  Just when I thought the way the fight was being edited in a way that made it seem scarier than it was, Johnny tries to block a kick to the head and ends up with a broken hand!  Very rock star to be breaking bones on a pilot episode.

Clearly, the first show is congruent with this rock star's approach to life, which I appreciate.  And if I can't be traveling myself, then watching Johnny kick ass across the globe will suit me fine (for now).  Check out Johnny Colt's blog for more.

Did you catch the show?  Leave a comment and let me know what you thought.

The Decision Not To Travel After 9/11

Big Statues - Luxor(?) Egypt 2008
Twin Statues - Luxor, Egypt 2008

The morning of September 11, 2001, is well ingrained in my memory. 

Within a few days of the attack, I called Adventure Center and verified my October trip was still scheduled, which meant I had to decide whether or not to head for the Middle East. 

My parents definitely did not want me to go. 

My brother, on the other hand, took the opposing view.

Deep down, I knew fear alone was not a reason to cancel my plans, however, the 24/7 media coverage of death and destruction was effective at swaying me. 

And then there was a sign, in the form of Delta canceling their service to Cairo. 

Suddenly, I would be due a full refund on my airfare, which made giving up my $200 tour deposit seem inconsequential.

Life seemed to sway me away from international travel, thereafter, as it wasn't until several years later in 2005 that I would dust off my passport and board a flight to Costa Rica. 

If it weren't for that complete lack of travel in my early 20's, I might not have decided to make up for it with a big trip around the world in my early 30's.

And it was on that RTW trip that I made sure to visit Egypt - Cairo, the Pyramids, Luxor, and Aswan - complete with Nile River cruise and several felucca rides to make up for 2001.

Booking the Egypt Trip & Finding Airfare (2001)

Old Islamic Cairo - Egypt 2008
Old Islamic Cairo - Egypt 2008

After I had enough money for the initial deposit, I called Adventure Center back. I spoke to the same woman as before, Maz. 

Since my trip is one of the least expensive, the $300 deposit was more than ¾ of the total cost.

I planned on paying the remaining $90 in another few weeks.

I printed out copies of the forms from the web site, and faxed them off. I also asked Maz to find the best airfare possible for my trip.

While the advertisement for the trip states you're flying in and out of Cairo, the truth is that is only if you take the 16 day trip. 

In my case, with the 10 day trip, I will be ending in Luxor and therefore need to find a way back to Cairo. 

Maz estimated the airfare from Luxor to Cairo to be $125.

The next communication I received from Maz included confirmation of my trip booking, and reservations for a round-trip flight, including the Luxor-Cairo trip and all applicable taxes. The total cost came to $1075. 

I saw that as a great price, however I wanted to dig around on my own as I had yet to purchase an airline ticket online.

After checking out big sites like Expedia and Cheap Tickets I realized I wasn't going to beat Maz's price unless I found a budget-minded site. I searched Yahoo for consolidator sites and came across Airlineconsolidator.net. 

I entered my trip dates, and came up with some great results. The cheapest airfare was offered by TWA. 

Next, I called the consolidator and asked for the details of the flight (times, cost including taxes, layovers). 

A day later I received a phone call that the flight I was interested in wasn't available, however there was another one with space but at a higher cost (about $200 higher). 

Since I still had to buy a separate ticket for the Luxor to Cairo leg, I knew it wouldn't be worthwhile to take that ticket. 

Also, like the flights Maz found, this one had layovers in European airports. That was something I wanted to avoid, if at all possible.

Researching the Egypt Trip & Operator (2001)

Luxor Temple - Egypt 2008
Luxor Temple - Egypt 2008

By now I'm convinced I need to go visit Egypt, and soon! After reading the ad, I wanted to check and see if the tour operator, Adventure Center, had a web site. I went to http://www.adventurecenter.com and sure enough it was the tour operator's site. I clicked on the About Us link first. I was excited to see they had been running small tours, to destinations around the world, for 24 years. I began to feel much more comfortable about giving them my money.

Next, I wanted to find the specific trip that was advertised, so I clicked on the Our World link, and then the continent of Africa. I was surprised to see so many different trips being offered. I began reading about all kinds of different trips, but I realized I better focus in on what I can afford, so I found the trip that was advertised on the Frommer's site. At first glance, there was a lot of great information including:

  • Day by day tour itinerary
  • Methods of transportation
  • Accommodations and Meals included
  • Size of the group
  • Tour staff and support
  • Departure dates
  • Cost
  • Picture of the sailboat we are to take down the Nile

Still hungry for information, I clicked on the site's FAQ link. I cruised through about 20 questions and answers, and decided the next step would be to call and find out about the availability of my trip. After work, I called Adventure Center. The woman who answered had a strong English accent. Adventure Center was located in California, so this raised my curiosity.

Feluccas on the Nile - Aswan, Egypt 2008
Feluccas on the Nile - Aswan, Egypt 2008

I mentioned the specific trip that interested me, as well as where I saw the ad for it. I commented on the fact that there seemed to be a trip leaving every week of the year. She replied that while that is true, they tend to fill up quickly. After mentioning the time period I was interested in traveling (October/November 2001), she ran through the dates that were available.

We went to Adventure Center's web site together, and she pointed out additional information was available for the trip. I clicked on the View Dossier link on the left hand side of the page, and Adobe Acrobat opened to show a more detailed itinerary.  I asked the woman if she had ever taken a trip through her company, to which she replied "yes."  We spoke briefly about what the experience is like. She mentioned that most of the people on the tour groups are English, as it was an English company. There were however some Canadian and Americans as well.

For some reason, I found the idea of taking a trip through them even more appealing. Not that I have anything against us American travelers, but sometimes we can be a bit obnoxious and less interesting than our foreign counterparts. I asked about the general age range for the travelers that choose this trip. She said they tend to be of varying ages, but on the younger side since you will have to sleep on the deck of the sailboat for part of the trip. The thought of sailing down the Nile, asleep on the deck of a sailboat, under the Egyptian sky, quickly filled my mind.

I was about out of questions, so I told her I would call back when I was ready to book my trip.

My Egypt Trip (2001)

Preface:  9 years ago, I was actively planning a trip to Egypt for the first time. I started documenting the process on this site (long before this blog), however my plans would come up against the shocking events of 9/11. This is a four part series, with the first three parts having been written in 2001.

The Great Pyramids - Giza, Egypt 2008
The Great Pyramids - Giza, Egypt 2008

Wednesday, August 8, 2001, was a day like any other. I woke up and went to work. 

As I was spending some downtime checking out travel sites, I came across a deal that caught my eye on the Frommer's site. 

My decision was instantaneous - I was going to Egypt, and soon! 

Things seemed to come together for me as if stars were coming into alignment for some great event. 

First, I had some money coming my way thanks to a bonus at work, a tax refund, and some auctions on eBay. 

Second, I had over three weeks of vacation time saved and had yet to go anywhere in the year 2001. 

Third, the deal just seemed too good to pass up. Here is the exact text I saw that morning:

If there is one indispensable visit, it is to the ancient culture of Egypt. And a famous tour operator has now created a nine-night visit there for only $390 plus the cost of round-trip air to Cairo. 

You visit the Pyramids the Sphinx, and the Egyptian Museum downtown, and then go by overnight train to Aswan where you board an Egyptian felucca--a sail driven riverboat--for a three night cruise to all the classic sights of Upper Egypt and back to Cairo.

Since a round-trip ticket to Cairo can be purchased for about $700 from various airfare consolidators, you enjoy the entire experience for about a thousand dollars, as low as such costs go.  -- Adventure Center

It wasn't only the price that attracted me. Let's take a closer look at the well-written ad that helped convince me to go to Egypt for the first time. 

The first sentence refers to the trip as "indispensable" which makes it sound like I'm less than a world traveler if I never make it to Egypt.

Second, the words "ancient culture" bring forth images of a time long past.

Culture is a buzzword for us travelers. We love immersing ourselves in a foreign culture. Why else would we travel!

The second sentence helps build my confidence in the deal by stating that it's not just a normal tour operator offering the trip, but a " famous" one.

By now I'm feeling safe that this is a reputable operator, even though I will do some homework on them later.

The second sentence also states the length of the trip, nine days, which seems like a good period of time to spend there considering the distance I will have to travel.

It also states the cost, and what is not included (airfare), as well as the destination city (Cairo).

The third sentence gives me a feel for some of the things I will see and do on the trip, as well as our modes of transportation (rail, river). 

The fourth sentence helps push the deal by giving an estimate of how much airfare will cost, which helped me estimate the total budget I will need for the trip. 

The sentence ends by reinforcing the fact that the trip is a great deal. 

The last piece of information is the name of the tour operator and a phone number to call so that I can follow up.

9 Inspiring Quotes For Independent Travel

The air was soft, the stars so fine, the promise of every cobbled alley so great, that I thought I was in a dream. - Jack Kerouac, On The Road

We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dream. - Arthur O'Shaughnessy, Charlie and The Chocolate Factory

We shall not cease from exploration and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started... and know the place for the first time. - T.S. Eliot, The Wasteland

Travel is ninety percent anticipation and ten percent recollection. - Edward Streeter

Bear in mind that the special advantage of vagabonding is the experience of not really knowing what happens next, which you can obtain at bargain rates in all cases....The challenges you face offer no alternative but to cope with them. And in doing that, your life is being fully lived. - Ed Buryn, Vagabonding in Europe and North Africa

What do you suppose will satisfy the soul, except to walk free, and own no superior? - Walt Whitman, Leaves of Grass

Travel is glamorous only in retrospect. - Paul Theroux

The day is of infinite length for him who knows how to appreciate and use it. - Goethe

Old men and far travelers may lie with authority. - Unknown

Friday Flashback - Making Friends Through Meditation

Meditation class photo
Meditation class photo

Of the 15,000+ photos I took on my trip, this is one of my favorites.  Maybe it's the zen-like smiles we are all offering the camera after three days of meditation, yoga, and Buddhist teachings from our American monk.  Or the healthy effects of vegetarian meals.  Or the great friendships I formed. Probably a little of everything.

Steven (black tank top) and I would reunite again in McLeod Ganj, India, and a third time on Koh Phangan, Thailand.  Before the meditation class, he had trekked to Everest Base Camp without porter or guide, meeting up with a few Japanese guys along the way.  I'll never forget the way he told that story.  After we separated in India, he headed for Australia where he's been picking melons and continuing to practice yoga on the farms.  I have a feeling we'll manage to stay in touch until we're both in old age homes.

Marie (shawl, far right) met up with Steven and I in McLeod Ganj, which made for a great reunion.  After we separated in Pokhara, she headed off for the Annapurna Circuit without guide or porter.  After about 6 months in India and Nepal, she returned to England.

Stefan (gray/green shirt, far right) hosted me at his massive apartment in Bern, Switzerland for a few nights.  He makes a mean fondue, and was a lot of fun to see again (even in the dead of winter).  Stefan had trekked to Everest Base Camp on his own too, and considered climbing a 6,000-meter peak while up there, but he had failed to get a necessary permit in advance.

Favorite Motivational Song Lyrics

Music is a passion of mine, which is why I was devastated in Phnom Penh last year when my Creative 8gb MP3 player stopped working.  It contained ALL my favorite music.

Thankfully, though not for the music industry, it's incredibly easy to get new MP3's by the longboat load in Southeast Asia.  I bought a new player, some new music, and survived the remainder of my trip.

Here are some of my favorite motivational song lyrics.  Which bands or songs motivate you to venture into the unknown?

It's Alright Ma (I'm Only Bleeding) by Bob Dylan

From the fool's gold mouthpiece
The hollow horn plays wasted words
Proves to warn
That he not busy being born
Is busy dying.

Advertising signs that con you
Into thinking you're the one
That can do what's never been done
That can win what's never been won
Meantime life outside goes on
All around you.

A question in your nerves is lit
Yet you know there is no answer fit to satisfy
Insure you not to quit
To keep it in your mind and not fergit
That it is not he or she or them or it
That you belong to.

For them that must obey authority
That they do not respect in any degree
Who despise their jobs, their destinies
Speak jealously of them that are free
Cultivate their flowers to be
Nothing more than something
They invest in.

But I mean no harm nor put fault
On anyone that lives in a vault
But it's alright, Ma, if I can't please him.

And if my thought-dreams could be seen
They'd probably put my head in a guillotine
But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only.

It's My Life by Bon Jovi

This ain't a song for the broken-hearted
No silent prayer for faith departed
And I ain't gonna be just a face in the crowd
You're gonna hear my voice
When I shout it out loud

It's my life
It's now or never
I ain't gonna live forever
I just want to live while I'm alive (It's my life)
My heart is like an open highway
Like Frankie said
I did it my way
I just wanna live while I'm alive, It's my life

This is for the ones who stood their ground
For Tommy and Gina who never backed down
Tomorrow's getting harder make no mistake
Luck ain't even lucky
Got to make your own breaks

Living for Today by Pennywise

you look around what do you see?I'll tell you what I see is a world belonging to me take time to find what you may dream it's all right there within your grasp just beyond what you can see we're the ones, the only ones, strong ones, proud ones we're living for today those for the past and tomorrow they'll have hell to pay and if your life is going by to fast it's time for you to slow down time for you to make it last before you trip and slip and you will miss this happy little stepping stone just before eternal bliss your life goes by before you know you gotta take time to slow down better take time to veer off the road enjoy the sights while you are here there's nothing to fear but fear itself who knows when the end is near don't make plans with your hands tied you'll never know you're missing out repeatedly on the things that help you grow you've got to own your soul you've got to take control find a one day plan young man get this straight live for today

Every Single Day by Pennywise

See all the people- Longing to be
Living their lives regretlessly
Trying to repress the pain in their lives
Reassuring themselves- Living with lies
No way to break through- Not on my own
Can't push away all the sorrow I've known
Have to release every thought or care
And take control life is a dare
I can start over today
Live my life a different way
Can't I find a way to erase bad times to make
Everything OK
I'll start over and live- Every single day
Regrets and memories- No remorse- No apologies
No reason for me to despair- No future at all
Ask if I care
I got time- On my side- Twenty four hours in my life
Can't hang on to what's in my past
Full speed ahead- Hard and fast

Holiday in Cambodia by The Dead Kennedys

So you been to schools
For a year or two
And you know you've seen it all
In daddy's car
Thinkin' you'll go far
Back east your type don't crawl

Play ethnicky jazz
To parade your snazz
On your five grand stereo
Braggin' that you know
How the n*ggers feel cold
And the slum's got so much soul

It's time to taste what you most fear
Right Guard will not help you here
Brace yourself, my dear...

It's a holiday in Cambodia
It's tough, kid, but it's life
It's a holiday in Cambodia
Don't forget to pack a wife

You're a star-belly sneech
You suck like a leach
You want everyone to act like you
Kiss ass while you bitch
So you can get rich
But your boss gets richer off you

Wasn't Born to Follow by The Byrds

Oh I'd rather go and journey where the diamond crest is flowing and
Run across the valley beneath the sacred mountain and
Wander through the forest
Where the trees have leaves of prisms and break the light in colors
That no one knows the names of

And when it's time I'll go and wait beside a legendary fountain
Till I see your form reflected in it's clear and jeweled waters
And if you think I'm ready
You may lead me to the chasm where the rivers of our vision
Flow into one another

I will want to die beneath the white cascading waters
She may beg, she may plead, she may argue with her logic
And then she'll know the things I learned
That really have no value in the end she will surely know
I wasn't born to follow

Favorite Motivational Quotes (From Movies)

Planning and saving for a trip can take awhile. We all need to draw our motivation to stick with it from somewhere, and our favorite movies, songs and books can be just the source of support (or laugh) we need.  Over the next few days, I'll share some of my favorite quotes that keep me motivated.

Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it. "“ Ferris Bueller's Day Off

Michael Bolton: Peter, you're in deep shit. You were supposed to come in on Saturday. What were you doing?
Peter Gibbons: Michael, I did nothing. I did absolutely nothing, and it was everything that I thought it could be.  "" Office Space

My name is Richard. So what else do you need to know? Stuff about my family, or where I'm from? None of that matters. Not once you cross the ocean and cut yourself loose, looking for something more beautiful, something more exciting and yes, I admit, something more dangerous. So after eighteen hours in the back of an airplane, three dumb movies, two plastic meals, six beers and absolutely no sleep, I finally touch down; in Bangkok. -- Richard, The Beach

There are so many things I want to do, but I end up doing not much., Celine, Before Sunset

Warning: If you are reading this then this warning is for you. Every word you read of this useless fine print is another second off your life. Don't you have other things to do? Is your life so empty that you honestly can't think of a better way to spend these moments? Or are you so impressed with authority that you give respect and credence to all that claim it? Do you read everything you're supposed to read? Do you think every thing you're supposed to think? Buy what you're told to want? Get out of your apartment. Meet a member of the opposite sex. Stop the excessive shopping and masturbation. Quit your job. Start a fight. Prove you're alive. If you don't claim your humanity you will become a statistic. You have been warned.  -- Tyler Durden, Fight Club

The older you get, the more rules they are going to try and get you to follow. You just gotta keep on livin', man. L-I-V-I-N. "" Wooderson, Dazed and Confused

George Hanson: They're not scared of you. They're scared of what you represent to 'em.
Billy: Hey, man. All we represent to them, man, is somebody who needs a haircut.
George Hanson: Oh, no. What you represent to them is freedom.
Billy: What the hell is wrong with freedom? That's what it's all about.
George Hanson: Oh, yeah, that's right. That's what's it's all about, all right. But talkin' about it and bein' it, that's two different things. I mean, it's real hard to be free when you are bought and sold in the marketplace. Of course, don't ever tell anybody that they're not free, 'cause then they're gonna get real busy killin' and maimin' to prove to you that they are. Oh, yeah, they're gonna talk to you, and talk to you, and talk to you about individual freedom. But they see a free individual, it's gonna scare 'em. "" Easy Rider

Trust me, it's paradise. This is where the hungry come to feed. From mine it's a generation that circles the globe and searches for something we haven't tried before. So never refuse an invitation, never resist the unfamiliar, never fail to be polite and never outstay the welcome. Just keep your mind open and suck in the experience. And if it hurts, you know what? It's probably worth it. -- Richard, The Beach

Hello, and welcome to Amsterdam's finest and most luxurious youth hostel. We feature one medium sized room containing 70 beds which can sleep up to 375 bodies a night. There is no bathroom. Nor is there one nearby. If you do not wish to have your valuables stolen I suggest destroying them or discarding them right now. You can also try hiding your valuables. In your anus. This will deter some but of course not all thieves. Once you are inside, the doors are chained and locked from the outside. They will not be opened again until morning, no matter what. Should a fire occur due to our faulty wiring or, uh, the fireworks factory upstairs you will be incinerated along with the valuables that you have hidden in your anus. Tips are greatly appreciated. "" Hostel Clerk, Eurotrip

.....and my favorite.....

And me, I still believe in paradise. But now at least I know it's not some place you can look for, 'cause it's not where you go. It's how you feel for a moment in your life when you're a part of something, and if you find that moment... it lasts forever... -- Richard, The Beach

Souvenir Spotlight - Religious Box From Tibet

Tibetan religious item
Turquoise & coral - two hallmarks of Tibet

When I returned from my backpacking trip, I unpacked all the boxes I sent home like a kid on Christmas morning.  Some of the stuff had sentimental value, some of it was just as cool as I'd remembered when buying it, and a small percentage fell into the "why the hell did I buy this" category. Going forward, I'll be sharing some of the cool souvenirs I picked up on my journey.

To kick things off, I present a rectangular box with turquoise and coral inlay.  Both stones are very common to Tibetan crafts.  On the box, you'll see the omnipresent "Om" symbol.  The actual religious object, which looks akin to a dagger, is full of iconography starting at the top with an animal head, then moving into the lightning bolt (if I recall correctly) which has the red coral in the middle of it, and then a dragon's head from which the turquoise-tipped point emerges.

The Tibetan gentleman (pictured) who sold it to me on a side street in McLeod Ganj, India explained the symbolism of it all to me (with help from his Mom), but I soon forgot.  Someday, I will look it all up again.

My first encounters with genuine items from Tibet occurred in Nepal.  It was there that I initially grappled with the ethical dilemma of whether it was appropriate for me to be purchasing such items.  After all, couldn't it be considered a Western robbery of Tibet's cultural heritage?  Maybe I was over thinking it, but if Tibetans fleeing their homeland know that tourists are paying a lot of money (by local standards) for such items, perhaps it would encourage them to bring more to sell.

Typical Tibetan stall in McLeod Ganj, India
Typical Tibetan stall in McLeod Ganj, India

I presented my concerns to several Tibetans selling their wares.  One gentleman who appeared to be in his early twenties, convinced me that it wasn't necessarily a bad thing.  He argued that Westerners will take the items home to their countries and care for them - in effect, preserve the cultural heritage of Tibet.  Though I was contemplating a purchase from this man (and eventually went through with it), I could sense he was being sincere by the tone of his voice.

The religious item of turquoise, coral and metal from Tibet is dear to me.  I feel like it is a small connection I have to a country that I was just a few days away from setting foot in for the first time.  It is my connection to a people that remain at war with China over religious freedom.  It was clearly handmade.  It was probably the property of an upper-class Tibetan.  I imagine it has a rich and mysterious history, and hopefully I can give it a safe home for the rest of my life.

A Backpacker's Guide To Massages In Asia

Editor's Note:  This article is *not* about happy endings!

Full body massages are a luxury for most Westerners - the occasional gift to be given to a woman, or the benefit of having too much disposable income for a man. 

If you're heading to Asia, you will soon find that the opportunities for affordable, quality massages and spa treatments are endless. I quickly became a connoisseur during my time in Asia. 

Here's my general take on the quality of services on offer in various countries. One's experience can vary widely based on the masseuse's skills.

Balinese massage tables.
Balinese massage tables

Bali, Indonesia

While you can get a one-hour massage for $5 on Kuta Beach, do you want sand and salt from the ocean being ground into your skin by a surly masseuse while a swarm of Indonesian hawkers tries to sell you on their wares? No, I didn't think so.

There are more than enough spas where you can pay an extra dollar or two for air-conditioning, aromatherapy, a comfortable massage table, a little privacy, and the occasional free cup of tea afterward. 

I enjoyed Bali's massages and spas more than those in any other place on my trip. I always appreciated how they would place a fresh flower in a small bowl and set it under the hole in the table where my face would be.

Chengdu, China

The Chinese love a good foot massage, and while watching TV and enjoying the massage in a room with my friend and his girlfriend was interesting, it certainly wasn't my favorite experience.

If you're into ancient Chinese medicinal treatments, you can give Ba Guan a try; however, be sure to read about my experience with it first. You've been warned.

Kathmandu, Nepal

I was fresh off the plane in Kathmandu, the capital city of one of the most impoverished nations on the planet. 

When I looked down a forlorn Thamel street and noticed a sign for a massage, I was still thinking in terms of Balinese and Chinese spas. How wrong I was, yet I decided to follow through.

I walked up a flight of stairs and entered the dark, decrepit office. I haggled for a price comparable to what I'd paid in other countries and dressed down in a bare room. 

As for the massage itself, it was OK, but when your environment looks like a flophouse, it is hard to enjoy the experience.

A very spoiled Thai dog

McLeod Ganj, India

I was so sore from the last day of my Indrahar Pass trek that I could barely move. 

The pain in my shoulders and ribs left me bed-ridden for 48 hours, so I decided it was an opportunity to try Tibetan acupuncture and massage. 

I doubted the doctor's assertion that I would feel like new after three sessions, but to my surprise, she proved me wrong. 

Thailand

I had my first Thai massage in Bangkok a day or two after arrival. As I'd heard, it was akin to having a yoga instructor yank your limbs around. 

I was especially displeased when she cracked my neck. The whole experience lacked the sensual, relaxing nature of the Balinese massages. This was closer to Muay Thai fighting on a bed. 

After a few pleasant massages on Koh Phangan, I decided to give traditional Thai massage another go on Phuket.

On my second round, the masseuse was amazingly strong for her petite size. Eventually, I asked for mercy. 

I had to repeat myself a second time, and even then she continued to use more force than was enjoyable. 

That said, not every experience in Thailand revolves around intense traditional massage. Many travelers come here for slower, more restorative experiences, like booking a wellness retreat in Thailand, where massage is just one part of a broader focus on relaxation, yoga, and overall well-being.

I decided Thai massages were not my bag.

Cambodia

By the time I reached Cambodia, I was starting to feel massage fatigue, so I needed to make the prospect a little more interesting. 

In Siem Reap, I ran across a small family-run place that offered blind massages. That's right. The masseuses were blind. 

I found my first shiatsu massage to be an enjoyable experience, and couldn't help but feel I was doing my part to support a small, family business.

Laos

My first massage in Laos was a disaster. I opted for my first hot stone massage since backpacking in Costa Rica in 2005, yet the kid who gave it was a mess. 

The stones were smaller than I expected and f'ing hot. It felt like he was dropping scolding hot lava rocks on my back, and every time I'd wince in pain, he'd say "sorry." Fifty sorries later, I was happy to get the heck out of there, and he knew it.

I was willing to bet one of Luang Prabang's proper spas would offer a better service, and indeed, the next massage I received was worth three times the price.

Here's A Quick Way To Spice Up Your Travels

When I was a kid, I remember being in my best friend's kitchen as he suckled a bottle of Tabasco sauce for sheer pleasure.  I assumed he could inherently handle it because he was Asian, and I wasn't.  In reality, the reason had to do with the differing cultural environments in which we were brought up.  I simply wasn't exposed to spicy food on a day to day basis, so I had a minimal tolerance for it, and thus didn't find it palatable.

My misconception about spicy food changed soon after college.  I was working for a dot com company and went out for Thai food with a few coworkers.  It was only the second time I'd had it, the first being my last night in Paris several months earlier.  It was a whole new world of flavors, and I also found out people have the ability to build a tolerance to spicy food in the same way they can build a tolerance for alcohol or nicotine.  I decided to take a proactive approach toward building my tolerance for spicy food from that point forward.  It was as simple as exposing myself to it on a more frequent basis, whether it be the selection of a spicy restaurant dish or a medium-spicy salsa instead of non-spicy.

Since developing a greater tolerance for spicy foods, I've found myself in a better position to taste a wider variety of salsas and foods abroad.  Here's a sampling from my spicy past:

Belize

I took my tolerance for spicy salsas to a new level when I got hooked on the local favorite - Marie Sharp's Fiery Hot Habanero Pepper Sauce.  I brought a bottle home and dabbed the orange salsa on everything from tortilla chips to waffles.  Anything I ate lacking this fiery habanero sauce was deemed boring.

China

My friend Charlie made it a point to take me out for Hot Pot while I stayed with him in Chengdu, a city of 10 million located in China's spice province - Sichuan.  I'd already become use to the ubiquitous pool of spicy oil which accompanied our foods of choice, however Hot Pot would take the experience to a whole new level.  A cauldron of spicy oil is placed over a burner in the middle of your table, and allowed to gurgle until hot enough to cook your selected raw meats and vegetables.  The cumulative effect after a few bites was akin to sucking face with the sun - damn HOT!

But as those who enjoy spicy food know, there is an undeniable pleasure and unique excitement that comes with eating spicy foods and pushing your boundaries.

Thailand

My dare to eat one of India's hottest foods, a regional dish from Goa called vindaloo, wasn't completed until I reached Bangkok.  Yes, I know it probably wasn't the same, but as the video proves, I did my due diligence to get the spiciest chicken vindaloo the Indian restaurant's chef could cook up for me.

These are my fondest food memories, filed under spicy.  Now it's your turn.

Do you have a favorite memory from trying spicy foods abroad?

This Week In Travel Podcast & Thai Hilltribe Treks

Visiting a Karen Tribe in northern Thailand
Visiting a Karen Tribe in northern Thailand

Last weekend, I read "A Village, Or A Zoo" in the Washington Post travel section's cover story about the author's experience trekking through the hills of northern Thailand, visiting various ethnic tribes. 

The main draw was the same as it was for me and just about every other backpacker visiting Chiang Mai - the Karen Tribe who use metal rings to push their collarbones down and give the impression of extended necks. 

Such exotic cultural norms seemed right out of the pages of National Geographic, but easier to access - less than $100!

When Gary, Elliot, Jen, and Chris brought the article up for discussion in the third installment from This Week In Travel (at the 30-minute mark), I again took an interest and thought I'd relay my personal experience.

I'd heard backpacker's mention hill tribe treks in northern Thailand almost as much as the Full Moon Parties on Koh Phangan, so I made it a point to go on one myself. 

Every other shop in Chiang Mai was offering them, so arranging it was easy.

Upon my group's arrival in the Karen village where we would spend our first night, there was little excitement or interest shown by the Burmese people. 

They continued to go about their normal business creating handicrafts, with the younger women posing for a few photos.  It was thoroughly anticlimactic. 

I don't know what I expected, but it felt hackneyed.

I wrote a 3-part series on my experience trekking in northern Thailand where you can get a feel for the typical adventure, complete with elephant rides, campfire games, and whitewater rafting. 

It is one of the few activities on my trip around the world which I would *not* recommend. 

Instead, at a slightly greater cost, I believe a similar trek in less developed northern Laos would've been more interesting.

The Adventures I Still Dream About: My Ultimate Travel Bucket List

Me ice climbing on Viedma Glacier in Patagonia, a travel bucket list adventure.
The author ice climbing on Viedma Glacier in Patagonia

My travel bucket list includes a few dozen travel experiences I hope to accomplish in my lifetime:

  1. Climb Mt. Kilimanjaro.
  2. Travel overland through eastern Africa (Victoria Falls to Nairobi).
  3. Take the Trans-Siberian Railway.
  4. Experience the Tibet train-the world's highest railway-on a breathtaking journey from China to Lhasa.
  5. Take the 2-day, mountain bus ride from McLeod Ganj to Leh, India.
  6. Bicycle down Corocio, the "world's most dangerous" road in Bolivia.
  7. Handglide in Rio de Janeiro.
  8. Trek to Machu Picchu.
  9. Play Indiana Jones in Petra, Jordan.
  10. Recite lines from Casablanca in Casablanca.
  11. Trek in Patagonia.
  12. Climb a 6,000-meter peak.
  13. Live in Medellin again.
  14. Visit the motherland - Russia.
  15. Push my comfort boundaries with a jaunt to Damascus.
  16. Take a Zen meditation course in Japan.
  17. Eat cobra heart in Vietnam (just like Bourdain).
  18. Drive the Pacific Coast Highway in California.
  19. Trek to Everest Base Camp.
  20. Spot wild moose in Alaska.
  21. Oktoberfest in Munich (yes, I know it is for the tourists!).
  22. Go ice climbing.
  23. Take a wilderness survival course.
  24. Swim with a dolphin.
  25. Go whitewater rafting on the Zambezi River (Class V).
  26. See the US Men's National team play in the World Cup abroad.

Friday Flashback - Paragliding In Pokhara

Paraglider
Paraglider

Himalayan eagles soared around us as we caught the thermals up and made swooping turns to the left and right going down. It took a few minutes to feel comfortable in the seated position, with nothing below you but the terraced farmland. At least with skydiving you know you're going straight down. Paragliding is all about staying aloft. I can't imagine a sensation closer to flying then being up there with the birds. It was fantastic.

-- from I Want To Fly Like An Eagle, April 2008

Travel Talk With Jerry Haines

Travel Blogger Essentials
Flashpacker Minimalism - journal, camera, headlamp, laptop, and money

Arlington's Clarendon Center was ground zero for Travel Writing, A One-day Short Course available through the county's Adult Education program. Our teacher was Jerry Haines, a former lawyer and college journalism teacher turned Washington Post columnist. The class was made up of 7 women and 3 men, ranging in age from early twenties to late forties.

-- So You Want To Be A Travel Writer, March 2007

I invited Jerry out for coffee as part of my effort to reconnect with everyone since returning home. 

Since taking his travel writing course, we'd loosely stayed in touch. 

While I was traveling, he'd check in on this blog from time to time.

When I had the opportunity to write about Medellin for AskMen.com, he offered me some guidance from his 12 years of travel writing experience, which I greatly appreciated.

We met at a Starbucks in Clarendon, near my old apartment. It was good to see him again. 

Since taking his class, I felt more worldly and accomplished, having blogged for two whole years through 20 countries. 

We talked about a variety of subjects and shared stories from abroad.

An interesting theme that came up was the changes rippling throughout the traditional print media and how it affects travel writers and editors. 

Contractions in budgets and staffing at newspapers across the country have lead to editors taking early leave and looking for freelance work on websites. 

Jerry said that he had lost a lot of the contacts he used to have relationships with at print publications as a result.

While this trend may increase competition on the more prominent travel blogs, it also appears the web is becoming an equalizer of sorts. 

The ability for a travel blogger to develop a broad audience and personal platform for their travel writing can lead to opportunities to be published alongside those former travel section writers and editors.

You can read Jerry's good-humored writing at a few of these online publications:

Do you want to hear more of Jerry's perspectives on the state of travel writing - past, present, and future? 

If yes, please leave a comment, and I will see if he is open to a written interview.

6 Reasons I Appreciate Being Home

As much as I love being on the road, coming home is nice, too. After all, you know you've changed as a person from your experiences abroad. Still, you won't truly see or feel that difference until you return to the same environments and situations you frequented before leaving. 

2007 Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, DC
2007 Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, DC

It's like some mad social experiment. Here are six reasons why I appreciate being home.

Benefits of Being Home

Living with my parents (temporarily)

I bet you could see this one coming a mile away. A comfortable, familiar home with clean sheets, soft towels, reliable utilities, Mom's home cooking, stocked refrigerator and pantry, privacy, use of a car, and no nightly fee for a bed. It's the perfect place to relax on a deep seat sectional from Home Reserve, offering both comfort and style.

Reconnecting with family, friends, and coworkers in person

The key here is physical proximity to the people you care about, and vice versa. It feels great. 

Three weeks ago, I went out to happy hour with my former bosses (like old times). They asked lots of questions and let me unload as many stories as I could over a few drinks. I went up to NYC to visit my brother and a friend, too.

Two weeks ago, I stopped into my old office and walked through the cubicles to see so many familiar faces. The reactions I received were wonderful. And of course, there is getting together with old friends and finding out what they've been up to while I was away. 

Generally speaking, the closer the friend, the less likely they were to have followed this blog. I find this a bit strange, but don't hold it against them.

Ease of communication

A significant reason I enjoy traveling internationally is the challenge of exploring countries where you do not speak the native language. 

On the other hand, when I returned to the US and could suddenly walk up to anyone and ask for help, a movie recommendation, or a dance at the salsa clubs, it was a heck of a lot easier! It's nice to have a break from constantly struggling to communicate.

DC United and US Soccer Matches (live)

Amongst DC Uniteds Barra Brava fanclub
RFK Stadium in Washington, DC

I made it a point to catch some great soccer matches while away:

  • Sydney v. Melbourne
  • FC Barcelona v. Atletico Madrid
  • Three in Colombia (Medellin's rival teams - Nacional v. Medellin, Sao Paolo v. Medellin, and Colombia v. Peru)

BUT nothing beats supporting my local favorite, DC United. The best offensive players haven't changed much, but everyone else has gotten mixed up, and I'm still trying to get on top of the current roster. 

Not only am I looking forward to donning my United jersey for a live match, but I'm also planning to attend a World Cup qualifier, the USA v. Costa Rica, in October.

The ability to focus on my blogs and writing for others

Getting a new HP laptop in Colombia was a step in the right direction after having to rely on internet cafes and a tiny ASUS netbook for 16 months, and I did gain my first paid freelance writing experiences down there.

Still, I've really been able to focus better now that I'm home. Learning to use Twitter and social networks more effectively, discovering new blogs, and moving forward with integrating my old static website into this blog with WordPress as the content management system are all the result of being in a familiar environment once again.

Yoga

I've wanted to start a yoga practice for the year since I left India; however, I knew I'd have to wait until I returned home to attend classes consistently. 

For the last few weeks, I've been going to classes at my gym three times a week. Having practiced meditation for several years before my trip, I find yoga to be a related, though refreshingly new alternative.

Thai Delivery, Mexican, & Kampuchea

Panang Curry with Chicken and Chive Pancakes
Panang Curry with Chicken and Chive Pancakes

One of the many reasons I would love to live in NYC is the wildly diverse food scene. 

Within a few days, there were a zillion options within a few blocks of my brother's apartment in the East Village.

First off, classic American hot dogs. Next, the Japanese noodles on St. Mark's Place. 

And then there was my first Panang curry with chicken since Thailand. I was feeling lazy and requested delivery from Thai Terminal based on solid Yelp reviews. 

The dish was spicy and delicious, the mere smell of which transported me back to Southeast Asia. 

By this, I mean no offense to the only Thai restaurant which opened earlier this year in Medellin - you offer a necessary service to the entire Antioquian region of Colombia.

Huevos Rancheros
Huevos Rancheros

Then there was the brunch of huevos rancheros verdes at La Palapa Cocina Mexicana. 

OK, I must admit this take on my favorite Mexican dish wasn't quite what I expected - a bit heavy on the green tomatillo sauce and cream, but it tasted good.

The restaurant's menu, interior design, and overall atmosphere felt authentic.

Kampucheas Bwah Moun
Kampuchea's Bwah Moun

And for the final dinner of my visit, I went out with my brother, Kai, and his friend for Cambodian food at Kampuchea. 

I ordered the Bwah Moun, a flavorful soup of jasmine rice, chicken broth, organic chicken breast, tiger shrimp, ginger, Thai chili, lime juice, sprouts, and herb. 

My mouth is watering again just looking at the photo.

Exotic Treats
Exotic Treats

But what if I have a craving for beef tripe or goat at 2 AM? 

NYC's diversity accounts for all foods, as I found when we ran across a food truck offering both these treats and more in the late-night hours.

That reminds me, I have an unfinished dare to eat a scorpion.

Would You Accept A Free Trip To Colombia?

Medellin
Medellin

I'm not going to get all sentimental on you, at least not for long. By now you know how I feel about Colombia, and Medellin in particular.  Since arriving back in Virginia four weeks ago, I can't help but compare everything here to what I left behind - the climate, the geography, the people, the pace of life, the music, the nightlife, my gym.

So imagine my surprise when I am contacted with an offer to  go on a fully paid 2-week trip back to Colombia the day after my 33rd birthday, September 26.  The purpose would be to tour the country's best sights and blog about it.  Seriously?  I couldn't make this kind of an offer up if I tried!  And there is more I'm not quite ready to share yet as I'm awaiting the details, but let's just say if you liked my $25 Amazon.com giveaway, you'll LOVE what is coming next!

This opportunity reminds me of a post I wrote back in 2007, Would You Accept A Sponsored Trip Around the World, about the Travel Channel's then new show - 1,001 Things To See Before You Die.

Looking back at the comments on that post, both from myself and guys who've really blown up in the online travel world the last few years - Mike of Vagabondish, Ian MacKenzie of Brave New Traveler, and Dan at Voyagner, it is ironic to find myself actually in the situation we were debating before my RTW trip!

In case you were wondering whether I'd accept a sponsored RTW trip, here's what I thought back in April 2007:

What would I do, you ask? I'd like to think, deep down, that I would have the strength to decline the offer, in favor of doing it myself. Now, after the first RTW trip is completed, all bets are off!

At this time, I can honestly say I feel completely congruent by accepting the opportunity before me.  And I look forward to sharing every exciting aspect of it with you!

Would you accept a sponsored trip to Colombia?

Please leave a comment, retweet this post, Digg it, or hit StumbleUpon and let's get the debate going!

Tibetan Pendants, Japanese Noodles, French Vodka, And Mini-Burgers

Typical Om Mani Padme Hum Pendant
Typical "Om Mani Padme Hum" Pendant

I met my friend Kai at the corner of St Mark's Place and something.  This neighborhood in the East Village use to be a lot edgier - the domain of punks and the down and out.  But that was then, and now there are just a few shops and people left to reflect that old image.  When Chipotle Grill moves in, you know the times they are a changing.

Before he had arrived, I ducked into a Tibetan shop and browsed the silver pendants with various Buddhist designs in turquoise, lapiz, and coral.  In Nepal I paid $12-15 for one, and wore it upon arrival in India, but either the necklace broke while I was walking to my hotel with the backpack on, or it was stolen when it fell off my neck once I was shown to my room.  Either way, I was upset to have lost it so quickly.  I bought another in Darjeeling for about the same price, and at some point mailed it home, but with all my souvenirs unwrapped, it is nowhere to be found.  In NYC, the exact same pendants were going for $50.

We got dinner in one of the many Japanese restaurants that lined St Mark's. We sat at a counter facing the kitchen.  I ordered spicy noodles with pork and cabbage.  While we were waiting for food, we began to share a bottle of sake.  Despite being a rather cheap one, it still tasted smoother than the few other sakes I've consumed in my life.  The noodle meal was delicious, and Kai assured me that the atmosphere and setup of the restaurant was very similar to what you find in Japan.

Japanese noodles, pork, and cabbage
Japanese noodles, pork, and cabbage

After dinner, we caught a taxi to Broadway East bar which was in the shadow of the Brooklyn Bridge.  Kai said he'd been there before with my brother as part of a wrap party for a movie featuring McCauley Caulkin.  The Home Alone child star was there too.

The layout of the bar/restaurant was weird, so I won't try to explain it, but eventually we met up with Kai's friend Ray and his friend whose birthday it was, and some of his girl friends.  We hung out for awhile on the lower level bar, which had a DJ.  It was a small space, but we seemed to be entertaining ourselves.  Since returning home, I'd been anxiously awaiting the time when it'd be right to enjoy my favorite top shelf liquors.  I may have splurged on gourmet food from time to time on my trip, but I never ordered a Grey Goose and tonic.  Delicious.

Sometime in the early morning, we left the bar and took a cab to the Meatpacking District on the west side, but I was a bit out of it by then.  Kai, of course, knew where to go.  I can only recall cobblestones and lots of women dressed up nicely.  We went into one bar and walked out with two mini hamburgers.  Normally, I'd think they wouldn't be good if they're so small, but these burgers were a good call at that time of night.

Travel Talk At The Grey Dog's Cafe

The Grey Dog Cafe
The Grey Dog Cafe

I met up with Sean and Alisha from Sosauce the afternoon following the networking barbecue in Brooklyn. 

The Grey Dog's Cafe in the West Village looked vaguely familiar, and I became certain it was one of the many places my friend Kai had taken me on NYC trips past.

It was lunchtime, and the place was bustling.  We decided on our lunches while waiting in line. 

I've never had a fish taco, nor the desire to try one until I saw the Seared Tuna & Avocado Tacos on the menu. 

It sounded like a great combination, and if you can't tell from the photo below, they lived up to expectations. 

The big, juicy pieces of tuna were cooked to a perfect medium rare so the middle was still pink. 

A few dabs of sour cream and I was a happy camper.

Seared Tuna & Avocado Tacos
Seared Tuna & Avocado Tacos

Of course, we were there for more than just food. 

Sean and Alisha had a lot of questions about my trip, and I was happy to answer them all, though I also asked my own in order to learn more about Sosauce, the media-rich, online travel community they launched in 2008.

Now that I'm home for the foreseeable future, I have a few thoughts about what to do next. 

First, get back into the online travel community in general, and I don't mean just in terms of updating my blog or building a profile on Sosauce or answering questions on the Bootsnall message boards. 

To me, being a part of the community means all of those things and more. 

And it is only getting bigger as more sites and blogs come on line each year.

I'm also going to pursue a job related to encouraging others to travel independently, whether it is online or off...though preferably on!

Lastly, and this is where a greater sense of discipline enters the picture, I will be seeking out freelance writing opportunities.

How To Survive Reverse Culture Shock

Heading back to Virginia
Heading back to Virginia

If ever there was a long term traveler who didn't want to experience reverse culture shock, it was me one month ago in Medellin.  I'd been living the good life for 20 months, and I knew my time was almost up.  Before I left home in 2007, I imagined myself as possessing the maturity to return when "the time was right."  In reality, I had fully transitioned to a new way of life, and I wasn't prepared to let go.

Despite my stationary status in Colombia toward the end, I only had to step out of my apartment to be in an exotic culture where salsa music surrounded me, palm trees lined the streets, mountains were visible whenever I looked above the horizon, and animal testicles were a popular offering in the local park.  Somehow, returning to predictable, suburban America was less than appealing.

Surprisingly, I discovered a plethora of ways to actually enjoy the re-entry process.  Without further ado, I offer you my 10 best tips for transitioning home from traveling and living abroad.

1. Take Advantage of Seeing Your Native Country Through New Eyes

You've been away a long time and suddenly you're back on familiar soil, yet your perspective is inevitably different as a result of all the other cultures and ways of life you've been exposed to while away.  Take this unique opportunity (which might feel like a psychedelic mind trip) to follow whatever strikes up your curiosity about an environment in which the mundane may suddenly seem fascinating.  By embracing a child-like curiosity, home might not seem so boring after all.

2. Continue Meeting New People

A universally appreciated aspect of independent travel is the way in which relationships can form through the briefest of shared experiences.  You are constantly exposed to new ways of thinking, cultural backgrounds, and ways to swear in foreign languages.  Back at home, pretend you are once again the new guy or girl in town (which you should be use to by then) and you'll see just how easy it is to keep that social travel vibe going.

3. Seek Out Activities Inspired From Abroad

Didn't get a chance to join an ashram in India?  Start taking yoga classes when you get home.  Become addicted to salsa in Latin America?  Do a web search for bars in your area offering salsa nights.  The list is endless, from sports to spirituality, cooking to kayaking, chances are good you've picked up a few new interests to pursue.

4. Be Slow to Reconnect with People

Purposefully spread out your reunions with family, friends, old colleagues and acquaintances over several weeks, if not months.  This will give you an opportunity to continue telling tales of your adventures abroad over an extended period of time.  Even your most ardent admirers won't likely have the ear for more than a few stories during that first meeting.  If they do, enjoy the experience!

5. Take A Few Weekend Trips

If you've been traveling a long time, you may get antsy being in the same place for an extended time.  Plan a few short weekends away, perhaps once a month, to nearby places.  Moving around a little will surely stir up memories of your travels and hopefully put you back in the same emotional state.  These trips could be to reconnect with old friends or couchsurf and explore new cities.

6. Consider Living Somewhere New

Travel long enough, and "home" becomes wherever you lay your head at night.  Starting over in new places becomes routine, so why not take advantage of this comfort level and look for your next job in a new city or region of the country.  If you find work there, then you can look forward to discovering a new place all over again, which will surely keep you occupied as opposed to settling back into old routines in a familiar environment.

7. Eat Well

Food is an easy way to reconnect with the countries you visited.  Once you've experienced authentic Thai food, Indian curries, or Spanish tapas, you know what to look for in a good restaurant.  Suddenly, the large Vietnamese population in your area is a big plus, since going out for pho reminds you of that time in Ho Chi Minh City when...

8. Catch Up on Your Reading

Remember how everyone in Asia seemed to be reading Shantaram, but you didn't have the desire to carry around a 944-page book?  Being home is an opportune time to catch up on the reading you missed while traveling.  If the books of interest are set in places you've already been, then you will be able to more easily identify with them.  At the same time, indulge in a few books about the places didn't visit to keep your wanderlust alive.

9.  Savor Souvenirs + Give Gifts

Savor your souvenirs and give yourself permission to fully enjoy them.  Frame and hang the new Laotian watercolors on your wall.  Sip the variety of teas you amassed in China.  Make a custom photobook of your favorite animal encounters, or a calendar to hang up at your next job.  Along the same lines, give the exotic gifts you collected to their intended recipients.  Hopefully, Dad will appreciate the authentic Sikh sword you picked up in Punjab!

10. Reconnect With People You Met Abroad

Relationships of varying strengths are formed while traveling, and chances are you already have a bell curve on Facebook with regard to the frequency you communicate with people.  Take the time to invest in your strongest travel-generated relationships by staying in touch with messages from time to time.  It will give you a chance to relive some old experiences.  With a little luck, you'll see each other again.

Don't be surprised if most people don't respond.  When together in person, asking for an e-mail address or Facebook seems natural, however once you're both back at home, you may find the connection was only the result of being at the same place, at the same time.  C'est la vie!

In conclusion, your experience returning home after extended travel is going to be largely based on attitude.  Use these tips to adopt the right mindset, and try not to compare life at home with that on the road.  Instead, think about how much you've grown during the time you were away, and look ahead to the new adventures that await you.

Lightload Towels

Three Pack of Lightload Towels
Three Pack of Lightload Towels

In an effort to spread the word, George from Lightload Towels offered to send me a free sample of his unique product. 

It was an offer I couldn't refuse since they are billed as "the only towel that is a survival tool." 

I wonder, does Bear Grylls know about this?

When the package arrived in the mail, they were even smaller than I expected. 

Doubts began to arise as to their efficacy absorbing water, but first, a few details. 

At 12 x 24 inches (30 x 60 cm) and 0.6 ounces, it is about as small in area as the paktowel I brought on my trip around the world, though thinner and lighter.

I've learned size doesn't matter as long as you can wring out the water absorbed by your towel.

Lightload Towel
Lightload Towel

The website and packaging claim they have many uses, including:

  • towel
  • washcloth
  • mask
  • firestarter
  • insulation
  • diaper
  • water/coffee filter
  • wind/winter scarf
  • first aid supplement

In addition to these potential uses, the towels are individually wrapped in waterproof plastic, protecting them until needed, and 100% biodegradable.

When I opened my first towel, I was able to slowly unwrap it while dry, however, I later read online that they are easier to undue once wet. 

I was satisfied with the performance of the towel as a travel towel, namely that it can absorb a lot of water, be wrung-out, and reabsorb more water well.

I also found the length sufficient for it to be used as a head covering (especially useful for us bald folks). 

And indeed, it can be fashioned as a face mask too, which is something I used my bandanna for in dusty Nepal and India.

The last question on my mind was how flammable it was because I'm not the best at building campfires.

It only took one match to find out.  The dry towel lit up like a piece of paper and burned into almost nothing.

Overall, I found the Lightload Towels to be a good all-purpose item to carry with you while camping or traveling. 

Check out the Testimonials page for some interesting uses not mentioned here.

At $5.95 for a 3-pack, you really can't go wrong.

The towel lit up like dry tinder
The towel lit up like dry tinder

Salsa Dancing In New York City

Time Square
Time Square (not bad for a BlackBerry photo!)

After leaving the barbecue, I turned my attention to salsa dancing.

I'd made it out for a few dances the prior night at LQ, but having arrived after the band had finished also meant most of the people had left as well. 

Still, I got a chance to check out the bar and dance space on the lower level with a few dances.

Club Cache, like LQ, was the recommendation of my German friend in Medellin.

It'd been a few years since she had last visited New York City, but my web searches turned up all the places she'd been dancing. 

Based on their website, Club Cache only seemed to be open on Thursday nights. 

It was located a half block from Time Square, which I inevitably pass through whenever I'm in the city. 

It was filled with people coming out of the various theaters, and simply gawking at all the advertisements, which only seem to grow brighter and brighter with each of my visits.

Club Cache
Club Cache

I arrived at the club before the door opened, so I stood around on the sidewalk with the other early arrivals. 

I had a brief conversation with one Latino regular who asked if I danced On2, to which I replied a confident "no." 

I was hoping a free salsa class inside the club would help get me on the right track...err beat.

Once the club opened, I descended a staircase and paid the $11 cover. 

The interior was nicely designed, though it was indeed a much smaller club than LQ, and below street level. 

I wondered what the criteria was for a club or bar to be billed as "underground." 

In Medellin, El Eslabon Prendido, a popular downtown salsa bar, was considered "underground" despite the fact that it was at street level and common knowledge amongst foreigners.

People slowly began to filter into Club Cache. Women were putting on dancing shoes. 

The salsa-addicted began dancing immediately. I was in observation mode.

After about 30 minutes, a call was made for the dance class which was held in a small space near the bar. It was me, a super beginner girl, another guy, and a young couple. 

This was my first clue as to how the night would turn out - barely a beginner or person feeling it necessary to take a class.

Salsa dancing inside Club Cache
Salsa dancing inside Club Cache

We went through the basics, and I was confused with moving on the second beat but managed to get the hang of it, even if just for the class. And then I never saw the beginner girl again. 

Suddenly it was me and a packed club filled with regulars, and advanced ones oozing their own personal styles at that.

I watched a little longer and finally got up the nerve to ask a woman to dance. 

It was awkward as I never connected with her dance style, but we managed and I appreciated her willingness to take a chance on me. I returned to observer mode.

I eventually asked another woman to dance. She was visiting from Seattle, where she said there was no salsa scene. 

It made me feel lucky to be near Washington, DC which has a lively and friendly scene - one I'd already dove headfirst into upon arrival home from Colombia. And to my surprise, she said I was dancing On2!

But after that, I just felt like the general skill level was beyond me. Sure, I could ask more women to dance, but I wasn't having fun. 

The website had listed the names of performers for each week, so I expected a band. 

It turns out those performances are by dancers, not musicians. The manager came out under lights at one end of the dance floor, and suddenly everyone rushed to grab a front-row seat. 

I was slow to react, not knowing what was going on, and had to stand on my toes to see the young openers - Tropical Heat. 

The main act was Elvis and Teresa, and despite just giving us all one dance, it was a good one, and enough to get the crowd hyped. I left soon after the performances.

I decided an appearance at the upcoming 2009 New York Salsa Congress was not for me. Not yet at least.

Sosauce / Matador BBQ In Brooklyn

From right: Michaela, Kirsty, me and ?
From right: Michaela, Kirsty, me and Melissa

Brave New Traveler was one of the first travel blogs I began to follow back in early 2007, and I still recall how it was something of a "must-read" for those of us figuring out how to write for a travel blog when we're not actually traveling. 

And I still remember when the editor, Ian, announced a deal with Matador Travel whereby BNT would become part of this network. 

I was aware of a few of the big online travel communities like BootsnAll, and blogs like World Hum, so I just assumed Matador Travel was a well-established entity. 

But as I came to learn from the founder, Ross, they weren't some big corporate giant but an independent travel community founded just three years ago (on my birthday, no less).

Meanwhile, I learned about Sosauce, an even newer online travel community, by way of a review I wrote last October. 

And while I liked the idea of becoming involved in an online community or two, now that I had so many stories to share, I knew it wouldn't be feasible until I returned home. 

Alisha at Sosauce kept in loose touch with me, despite my rampant wanderings, and that is how I ended up at a networking BBQ in Brooklyn's Greene Garden.

Since I had little time to see my brother during my stay, he had invited me along to lunch with his friend, and I repaid the favor by inviting him to the BBQ. 

That, and he knows his way around the city better than me! 

After exiting the subway, we picked up a 6-pack of Sam Adams (always a good choice) and walked the few blocks to The Greene Garden, which was a cute little area fenced off and set back from the street - perfect for community gatherings and parties.

Ross, co-founder of Matador Travel, and me
Ross, co-founder of Matador Travel, and me

I met Alisha at the door and wasn't inside more than a few minutes before I spotted Kirsty, my favorite Nerdy Nomad. 

By now, you should know I love meeting fellow bloggers in person, specifically when I've actually been reading their blogs for a long period of time (as is the case with Kirsty).

As we started to talk, Michaela appeared.  She recently launched Briefcase to Backpack with Sherry Ott (currently teaching in Vietnam) which is all about encouraging people to take career breaks (or mini-retirements as Tim Ferriss refers to them). 

Of the three of us, Michaela is the only one to live in NYC. 

Kirsty is headed back toward Canada, before returning to NYC, and then heading in the general direction of South Africa for the 2010 World Cup.

Of course, we got to know each other in the context of travel, blogging, and a few beers in an ambient Brooklyn garden. 

Melissa and another woman I met were both getting ready to pursue their own online travel business plans. 

They both gave a high-level description of their ideas and made mention of putting teams together.  It sounded like they knew what they're doing. 

By comparison, I seem to prefer a more organic, figure it out as you go and keep it casual, approach.

A DJ was spinning, and a cook was manning the BBQ, turning out delicious American hot dogs and hamburgers. 

I've had the pleasure of BBQ's in New Zealand, Australia, and Colombia, but I'm still fondest of American barbecues.

I took the opportunity to introduce myself to Ross, founder of Matador Travel.  He'd recently taken a trip to Colombia, which was cool to hear. 

I also met Sean from Sosauce. 

We didn't get a lot of time to chat, so I suggested stopping by their office the next day, and he countered with a lunch invite, so we made plans to meet up.

As the sun went down, so did visibility. 

Ross announced that since the BBQ was a success, they'd have more in the future.  

If I were Australian, that'd earn a hearty "sweet as."

Around 9 pm, raffle prizes were given away, and I made my exit.

I had a trustworthy lead to follow on a salsa club in Time Square.

Colombiamoda 2009

When I decided to stay in Colombia earlier this year, and start a new blog, Medellin Living, one of the goals I set for myself was to be in a position to attend Colombiamoda, the country's annual fashion week held every July.

I knew it would require a press pass, but I figured there was so little online competition, it was feasible to build my blog's recognition to the point where I'd have a shot.

Obviously I didn't reach my objective since you haven't seen this blog plastered with photos and video of Colombian lingerie models.

Robin, on the other hand, did get behind the scenes at Medellin's 2009 Colombiamoda.  After traveling in the region, he had returned to California earlier in 2009 to start graduate school, only to realize how much he missed Medellin.

As a result, he did the only logical thing - passed on a higher formal education to live in a feared South American city and begin its first English-language nightlife and culture guide, The Arepa.  I contributed a humor piece on riding the city buses for the July issue.

Also featured in the video is Sarah, a trilingual journalism grad who connected with me through Twitter and whom I was suppose to meet up with before leaving.

Unfortunately, I didn't get the chance due to her busy travel schedule, though if ever there was a reason to return, it'd be to hang out with these cool cats (and keep writing for The Arepa).

Friday Flashback - The Rhododendron Forests

Nima, our porter, amongst the rhodedendrons
Nima, our porter, amongst the rhododendrons

As we walked to Deurali, we passed through gorgeous rhododendron forests with pink and white flowers. The forest felt magical, almost like " Lord of the Rings."? After we descended the valley, we walked up along a stream past some cute goats and dogs.

-- from Day 8 - Waiting for the Sun

Nevada Smith's - New York City Soccer Bar

Nevada Smith's in New York's East Village is a prime spot for watching soccer. My friend Kai took me there for an English Premiere League game a few years ago. 

It was a bright, sunny afternoon, but we were in a completely different atmosphere once we stepped through the front door. 

Pondering life outside Nevada Smiths
Pondering life outside Nevada Smith's

The bar was dark, illuminated by multiple large plasma TVs hanging around the rectangular room. And it was packed with people too.

Each side of the bar supported one of the teams. I can't recall who played, but it was probably Chelsea, Arsenal, or Manchester United. 

During the match, fans for each team would sing various cheers of support. It was a great atmosphere, but I didn't appreciate soccer back then as much as I do now.

On this trip to NYC, my brother lives just a few blocks from Nevada Smith's, so we stopped for a drink after my Drew Barrymore sighting in Central Park. 

Inside Nevada Smiths, an East Village institution
Inside Nevada Smith's, an East Village institution

I ordered a frosty cider from the tap, and we caught up in an atmosphere opposite to what I'd first experienced: quiet, empty, and sunlit.

The walls were adorned with signed soccer jerseys from around the world. According to their website, 100 matches are broadcast live every week!

If you love soccer and want a bar with a great atmosphere to catch your favorite team while passing through or living in New York City, check out Nevada Smith's - "where football is religion."

Quiet Contemplation And Drew Barrymore In Central Park

Map of Central Park
Map of Central Park

As I alluded to in my declaration of being alive and well in New York City, I took some time last Thursday to stroll through Central Park.  I first came across a softball field with multiple games in progress.  Don't these people have jobs?  Just kidding.  I sat on a bench and played around with my BlackBerry.  Addiction to the device is not out of the question, though I will try to avoid it, however I now understand how it gained the nickname "crackberry."

It was a cooler day then when I arrived, thanks to cloudy skies.  Behind me, kids and adults alike were climbing on a big rock outcropping.  I couldnt' resist either, and scrambled up to a ledge which still overlooked the softball games, except there was now a tree blocking much of the view.  It felt like the ideal place for a short meditation, and sitting under the tree reminded me of when I sat under the Bodhi Tree in Bohdgaya, India, so I closed my eyes and tried to quiet my mind.  I wanted to know what to do now that I finished my trip.

About 10 minutes later, I felt a reassuring calmness.  I knew what I wanted to do, and needed to do, to be happy.  Now it is just a matter of being disciplined enough to go after it.

Drew Barrymore (pink shirt) shoots a movie scene in Central Park
Drew Barrymore (pink shirt) shoots a movie scene in Central Park

I climbed down from the rocks and pushed further north into the park.  I came across a big open field, and took another seat, this time with my back against a tree, and the field and NYC skyline before me.  In the distance, I saw what appeared to be a crowd of people, but I was not in a rush to see what was going on.

After another 10 minutes or so, I got up and started heading toward the crowd.  I noticed production equipment, and a camera, and security people, but it didn't look like enough "stuff" to be a big Hollywood movie.  But there were a bunch of paparazzi with some telephoto lenses, so I knew there must be someone noteworthy involved.  On the grass in front of the camera, a few guys and a woman in a pink t-shirt were casually playing football.  I asked another onlooker if there was anyone famous, and she said Drew Barrymore.

NYC paparazzi
NYC paparazzi

You probably know what came next - me standing behind the paparazzi trying to snap photos with my 2x zoom BlackBerry camera.  I figured those guys knew the best place to stand.  While I could've done better with my 8-megapixel Canon, I was pleased with the smartphone's performance on the fly, yet again.

Meanwhile, the professionals had their fingers held on the shutter and I could hear the rapid-fire clicking of photos being taken split seconds apart.  At one point, I even heard one of the guys excitedly say "they're kissing."  I'm sure he had dollar signs in his eyes at that sight!

Later, when I Google'd Drew Barrymore, I came across photos and news clips about the day.  According to the classy piece, Drew Barrymore Snogs The Face Off Justin Long, the movie being shot, Going The Distance, is set to be released in 2010 and Justin Long has been a on/off boyfriend in real life.  Check out the article for a close-up of the snogging.

The football scene wraps up
The football scene wraps up

I had messaged my brother that I was looking at Drew Barrymore, and he called me back and said he might know somebody on the production crew (he works as a set dresser for TV shows and movies).  By the time we met up, the crew had already moved on to the next location, so we walked past the production trucks but he didn't recognize anyone.

New rule:  until I'm actually living in NYC, I'm still allowed to get excited about star sightings, and this by far, was my biggest to-date.

Reconnecting In The Big Apple

Union Square
Union Square

I want to be a part of it: New York, New York

- Frank Sinatra

My endgame for the whole trip around the world was always to leverage my sense of being uprooted to make a move to another part of the country. 

New York City has always been tops on that list, so I was excited to time my first visit since getting back with a networking BBQ in Brooklyn hosted by two independent online travel communities, The Matador Network and Sosauce.

In a real deja-vu moment, my Dad dropped me off at the Vienna metro station last Wednesday morning, where I slung my backpack over my shoulders and headed into Washington, DC, to catch the bus to NYC. 

This was exactly how my trip around the world started in late November 2007! But this time, I wouldn't be getting on an Air Tahiti flight.

While I was sipping a coffee outside the Starbucks at my preferred pick-up location, I saw the bus pass by on the opposite side of the street. 

A few minutes later, I called the office and confirmed the bus driver just missed me and was on his way to the next location. 

I jumped in a cab, and we sped off to the new spot. 

This wasn't the start I was looking for. Thankfully I got one of the last seats on the bus just as all the money was being collected from passengers.

Tired from going out the night before and having to wake up early, I passed the time learning how to use my new BlackBerry Curve 8900 and nodding off. 

As Nomadic Matt recently mentioned, the east coast bus services now feature wi-fi internet connections, which I thought was cool, though there wasn't enough room for me to whip out my full-size HP laptop.

About four hours later, we arrived in Manhattan.

I headed into the subway and made my way to Union Square, where I had plans to meet up with my good friend Kai who now worked nearby at College Humor, and along with my younger brother, lived nearby as well. 

Kai was in a meeting when I arrived, so I spent the next hour and a half watching people on the street. 

Person for person, New York City has the most diverse and fashionable population on the planet. 

I'm willing to offer London an honorable mention.

It was good to see Kai again. Another connection re-established in person, post-trip! 

He gave me my brother's keys to his apartment in the East Village, and I made the short walk over to unload my pack.

Later, my brother returned home late from work while I was still up. It was good to see him again too.

Note: All the photos I post from my time in NYC were taken with my new BlackBerry, which features a 3.2-megapixel camera with flash. 

A weekend in the city that never sleeps was the perfect opportunity to take it for a test run.

Friday Flashback - Trekking Troubles In Sinuwa

Prayer flags
Prayer flags

By the middle of my third day trekking in Nepal, I was exhausted according to the French doctor who checked me out at the Sherpa Guest House in Sinuwa.  I had a decision to make - continue onward, higher in elevation toward Annapurna Base Camp a day and a half away, or stay put, and reunite with Gela and our guide on their way back.  It was one of the easiest decisions I've ever made in life.

Day 3 - Wasn't Born to Follow and Snow (Hey Oh) cover this unexpected turning point in my trek.

I'm Alive And Well In New York City

I've been quiet the last few weeks because, to be honest, returning to the USA has been a real jolt to my system. 

On one level, I picked up exactly where I left off. Driving a car is like riding a bike. Finding salsa clubs was as easy as searching the internet. 

On another level, I've met up with friends and old colleagues and felt as though I've been living in a parallel universe.

After a few weeks at home, I decided to visit New York City, which along with Medellin...and Venice...and Pokhara...and dare I say Paris...is one of my favorite cities in the world. 

I'm having some fun adventures after just 24 hours, so I look forward to sharing more soon.

Earlier today, I found myself meditating atop a rock outcropping in Central Park. 

I'd lost touch with how beneficial it can be to practice meditation, and am trying to get back into it, which will compliment my new yoga practice well.

But perhaps of most interest to me was the epiphany I had before that meditation:

The last time I was unemployed, I decided to pursue a dream trip around the world. 

If I can make my (travel) dream a reality once, it stands to reason that I can do it again.

Stay tuned.

Friday Flashback - Day 1 of Trekking In Nepal

Nima Sherpa takes a break at the tourist checkpoint
Nima Sherpa takes a break at the tourist checkpoint

Wondering what it is like to be dropped off at the starting point of a 10-day trek toward the base camp of Annapurna South (8,000-meter peak) having not gone on an overnight hike since the age of 12 twenty years earlier?  I was too.  I quickly learned why you don't want to leave later than scheduled if you can avoid it - rain and hail.  The kind of iceball deluge that will have you jumping out of your shoes in pain as you are pelted from the heavens.

Day 1 - Shelter From the Storm records my initial observations from wildlife to having all my clothes and sneakers completely soaked on the very first day!

Friday Flashback - Trek Preparations In Pokhara

Tracing our trekking route
Tracing our trekking route

Trekking in Nepal was a must-do experience for me on my trip, and while I had not gone on an overnight hike since the age of 12, I couldn't resist the call of the Himalaya.  Even though it didn't turn out as planned, it was still the biggest adventure and most awe-inspiring scenery of my trip.  The next few flashbacks will be from my 10-day trek through the Annapurna region.

Final Trekking Preparations features photos of peaceful Pokhara the day before I was due to head off toward some of the world's highest mountain peaks!