Blog - Go Backpacking

Mexican Food, Soccer, & Pickle Juice in New York City

I've already written about the book launch party for The Best American Travel Writing and the 2009 Adventures in Travel Expo, so it's now time to fill in the gaps of this 4-day NYC escapade.

Friday morning, I twittered my way into consciousness and made plans to meet my friend at the offices of College Humor near Union Square.

Expecting to exit the elevator into a maelstrom of sophomoric hijinks, I was instead met by the sound of silence. Even the crickets had left for the weekend.

We walked a few blocks to meet my brother at Rosa Mexicano.

The interior of the restaurant, with its wall of cascading water, was very inviting. We grabbed a booth in the back and ordered lunch.

Fresh guacamole was made to order tableside and served in a giant mortar.

Along with freshly made tortilla chips, it was the bomb. I love "good" fat.

I ordered the chicken tacos, though the menu description and a photo are necessary to do them the slightest bit of justice:

Grilled chicken marinated in ancho chiles, garlic, cumin, cloves and cinnamon. Topped with slow cooked peppers, served with melted Chihuahua cheese. Served in a cast iron skillet with red bean-chorizo chili, corn esquites, chile de Ã¡rbol salsa and freshly made warm corn tortillas.

Rosa Mexicano might cost a little more than your local Mexican restaurant, with lunch entrees hovering around $13 apiece, however, the food is to die for.

I left with little desire to do anything but sleep, yet I had more internet company offices to visit.

Next was Yext. You remember Yext, right?

I wrote about them a few months ago during a previous visit to NYC.

Since then, they debuted at TechCrunch50 and secured $25 million in new venture capital.

My brother left his production work on Hollywood movies to join them.

The new office in Chelsea Market looked like it offered plenty of room for growth.

Even though I wanted to crash The Food Network studios (located there as well), I had one more office to visit.

I took a taxi to the new Soho office of Sean, Alisha and the gang of Sosauce.com.

They welcomed me with open arms, and we talked about the postcard contest they've got running and South Africa, among other saucy things.

I forgot what I did Friday night, but I assure you it was awesome.

Saturday night, my brother took me out for sushi on St. Mark's, and then we shot some pool at his favorite local dive bar, Cherry Tavern.

I noticed absinthe on the menu and remembered hearing that some kinds were now legal in the US.

After assuring the bottle on the bar included the fear-inducing ingredient of wormwood, I ordered a glass on the rocks.

At 100 proof, it takes a good constitution to drink slowly, but I enjoyed (most of) it.

We then met my friend at Nevada Smith's for the USA v. Honduras World Cup Qualifier.

For stupid foreign TV rights and money reasons, this very important match was only available by pay-per-view, so options for viewing it were limited.

And as I previously wrote, Nevada Smith's is NYC's best soccer bar.

It was packed on both floors with shoulder to shoulder drunk dudes.

It was insanely hot and smelled of B.O. and bad beer breath, but the match was awesome, and the USA clinched a 1st round appearance in the 2010 World Cup in South Africa.

Jameson, pickle juice, and Pabst Blue Ribbon

After the match, we had a beer at a bar across the street with a friend of my friend and grabbed a taxi to a speak-easyish bar called The Randolph in Little Italy.

My friend had been talking incessantly about how you can chase a shot of Jameson whiskey with pickle juice to cut the bite.

I had no choice but to participate in imbibing this odd combination, though it'd be my last drink of the night.

After hanging out and congratulating some Honduran fans on a great soccer match, we hit one last bar.

Home Sweet Home was busy and stocked with a wide arrange of stuffed fowl.

In the early morning hours, the dance floor filled with New Yorkers getting their (drunken) groove on, I wondered whether the bartenders named the stuffed geese.

Friday Flashback - Sikkim Adventures

"Ever wondered who defied death to build these roads? BRO that leads the way."

Sikkim is a former Buddhist kingdom nestled along the Himalaya, bordered to the west by Nepal, the north by Tibet, and the east by Bhutan and China. About 30 years ago, India took the reigns, yet its unique identity is still reflected throughout the state.

Narrow, winding roads are etched into the sides of steep mountains prone to landslides. Despite the dangerous conditions, the roads are paved and often surprisingly smooth. The Border Roads Organization (BRO) take immense pride in these results and there are street signs throughout the state which praise the laborers and also caution people against driving dangerously.

4x4's are the primary form of transport. I took two jeep tours - the first a day trip, and the second a 3-day journey into the northern reaches of the state. Sikkim is also home to the world's 3rd tallest mountain, Mt. Kanchenjunga, which I was able to catch glimpses of from Gangtok.

To discover Sikkim, please follow these links:

Sikkim Bound (the jeep trip from Darjeeling)

Good Time Gangtok (exploring the capital city)

Yak Rides at Tsomgo Lake

Big Waterfalls, Long Drive (1st of a 3-part series)

The Tsopta Valley and Jeep Drama (part 2 - includes our jeep breakdown)

Yumthang - Valley of the Flowers (part 3)

Navigating the Adventures in Travel Expo

The day after attending the launch party for The Best American Travel Writing 2009, I noticed (via Twitter) that several other big events were occurring in New York City over the weekend.

While Anthony Bourdain's talks were sold out for The Food Network New York Wine & Food Festival, it'd be no trouble for me to attend the Adventures in Travel Expo at the Jacob Javits Convention Center.

Before backpacking around the world in 2007, I attended the same convention in Washington, DC, so I knew what to expect. When I re-read what I wrote about that first experience, it occurred to me that I may have become slightly jaded since then.

Either that, or my recent travel experiences have filled in a lot of blanks in my mind about what it is like to visit remote tropical islands, scale high-altitude mountain passes, and discover foreign cultures.

Musher with Jamaican Dogsled Team — Musher with the Jamaican Dogsled Team

I went with an open mind, a handful of Moo.com business cards, and one planned tweet-up. The admission at the door was $15, and unlike my last experience, I didn't have a National Geographic coupon to waive it.

Once inside, I was faced with a massive room filled with booths highlighting everything from local trips to the Poconos to summer camps in Greenland and cruises to the Antarctic.

The first booth I approached was Contiki. I began speaking with Jennifer, who turned out to be the Sales Manager for the Mid-Atlantic Region. I asked her about whether Contiki trips are good for people who enjoy independent travel.

She handled the question well, selling the fact that sometimes it can be nice to relax and let other people worry about managing logistics. After taking two guided trips in southern Africa last year, I could relate.

Every traveler has a personal threshold for dealing with the challenges that can present themselves on the road. If paying a premium for an organized tour helps someone feel more comfortable exercising their passport, then more power to them.

As I was talking to Jennifer, I began asking questions about her experiences guiding Contiki trips and working for the company.

I realized the event was more than just an opportunity to discover new travel companies and advertise my blog. It was a great chance to speak with people in various jobs within the travel industry.

I collected her card in addition to giving her mine, as she was open to fielding future job-related questions from me.

My next memorable visit was with the founders of Great Beyond Adventures. Their booth was the antithesis of the convention strategy.

No marketing gimmicks, women, contests, candy baskets, or kitschy giveaways. In the name of eco-awareness, they didn't even have a stack of catalogs for visitors to take away. Simply a sign-up form to receive their newsletter.

I began talking with one of the guides about my adventures in Nepal last year, and he mentioned a future expedition he may be taking to Cho Oyu, the 6th-tallest mountain in the world (with a view of Mt. Everest).

I forgot how the topic of Ethiopia arose; however, I expressed my interest in visiting. It turned out that John "JR" Ricci, the company's founder and executive adventurer, had just returned from a trip there.

When John returned to the booth, he relayed a few of his experiences visiting remote tribal villages. Now I definitely want to go!

I stopped by the Globe Trekker booth, where I spoke with one of the two women who work on the show from the US office, which is based in Los Angeles.

I signed a "no finning" petition at the Shark Research Institute booth, where I encountered an extremely passionate shark photographer (pictured).

I felt bad walking away, but after 10-15 minutes of politely listening, I could tell he wasn't going to stop relaying shark stories like machine gunfire.

I had been asked via Twitter to pet a dog at the show, which made no sense to me until I saw an adorable pair of husky puppies with Oswald "Newton" Marshall, a musher for the Jamaica Dogsled Team.

In case you're wondering, the team trains out of Minnesota. They plan to compete in the 2010 Iditarod.

And somewhere in the middle of all this, I met Maggie Soladay, a professional photographer, by the zipline. I was just about to respond to her latest direct message via Twitter when she noticed me standing two feet in front of her. I really suck at this, I thought!

Maggie recently returned from guiding a trip to India with SalaamGarage, "a citizen journalism organization that partners with International NGOs and local non-profits."

I found speaking with her to be incredibly inspiring. As I shared some of my own travel tales, she offered encouraging feedback that I had stories that could be further developed in the interest of being published.

For the rest of the weekend, I started to see how some of my favorite stories from the last year and a half could take on new life if I properly put together pitches for the right publications.

She also gave me another reason to ditch my Blackberry in favor of an iPhone: a mobile application for Tweetdeck. It's very cool and much more efficient than what I'd been doing. (Note: I've since installed UberTwitter, but it's not the same.)

If you are passionate about travel, I believe you'll find at least one booth at the Adventures in Travel Expo that will be worth your time.

Otherwise, you can use it as a networking and promotional opportunity like I did, or simply as a reason to meet up with the local travel tweeters in your area.

____________________________

Future Stops in 2010

Chicago, IL: January 9-10
Los Angeles, CA: February 13-14
Washington, DC: March 6-7
Seattle, WA: November

The Best American Travel Writing 2009

"How did you find out about it," my Dad asked, after I announced the reason for my impromptu weekend trip to New York City. "Twitter," I responded with a satisfied grin.

The next morning, I was barreling northward on I-95 aboard the Megabus from DC to NYC to attend the book launch party for The Best American Travel Writing 2009.

I've attended a sum total of zero book launch parties, so I had little idea of what to expect, though I was glad to know a few guys I'd been following on Twitter would be there.

Idlewild Books is located near Union Square, which made it a convenient destination from my brother's East Village apartment.

I arrived within minutes of the official 7 PM starting time to find a small, independent travel bookstore already filled with people chatting in small groups and browsing the shelves.

My initial instinct led me to pick up a few books on Nepal and the Himalaya, though my curiosity about the people in attendance soon took over.

I walked to the nearby coffee table with wine and poured myself a cup.

And in the blink of an eye, I was chatting with sisters Emily and Bernadette, the former a student and writer from Drexel, and Joy who worked in public relations for Houghton Mifflin.

I thought I recognized Craig from his Twitter photo when he entered the store, but I wasn't sure.

Thankfully, his facial recognition is better than mine, and he came over to introduce himself.

Craig is a freelance writer, and technically the first person I've met through Twitter. We were soon joined by Grant Lingel, author of the recently-released Imagine: A Vagabond Story.

After talking to the guys for a bit, my curiosity took hold again, and I approached a young woman in yellow.

Turns out she'd submitted a story of her own for consideration in the anthology and was there to "check out the competition."

A few minutes later, Simon Winchester took the podium to introduce The Best American Travel Writing 2009.

Simon is this year's guest editor for the series. I had noticed him earlier as he was the most distinguished-looking man in the room.

(Side note: Last year's guest editor was none other than Anthony Bourdain. I'm always one step behind the guy!).

Simon took a few minutes to read aloud his thoughts on the importance of knowing world geography and then introduced three of the authors included in the anthology.

Andre Aciman, Matthew Power, and Elisabeth Eaves all read for 5-10 minutes from their contributions.

My favorite was the piece by Matthew, which he wrote after joining an anarchist/punk rafting trip down the Mississippi River.

The description of the make-shift raft was enough to hook me, let alone the character whose idea it was to put together such a modern-day adventure.

When the readings wrapped up, and the applause was rendered, I introduced myself to Mike Barish.

I lucked out because his Twitter headshot, a photo of him eating a hamburger, does not make him the most easily identifiable person.

He was dressed stylishly in a bow-tie and sporting a fantastic beard which has since become a Twitter phenomenon in its own right.

Mike was incredibly friendly and introduced me to several people including Eva Holland. While Mike writes for Gadling, Eva is a senior editor over at World Hum.

And there I was, DIY blogger amidst two titans of travel in the online world.

Later, I also met Jason Wilson, the series editor for The Best American Travel Writing 2009 and editor for Smart Set, an online magazine supported by Drexel University, before heading off to meet friends and continue the New York City night.

_______________________

The Best American Travel Writing 2009 is now available on Amazon.com for the small sum of $10.98

Follow the tweets:

@simonwinchester

@mikebarishbeard

@stayadventurous (Craig)

@vagabondstory (Grant)

@idlewildbooks

Walking Tour of Washington, DC

I learned a valuable lesson in Colombia earlier this year - when you stay put, it's only a matter of time before other world wanderers visit your neck of the woods.

Of course, it helps to live near a major city, and in my case, that city is the US capitol of Washington, DC.

Vanessa and I met Christmas Eve 2007 when we arrived in Queenstown via the same Stray bus.

A few days later, we exchanged e-mail addresses as so often is the case and stayed loosely in touch via Facebook.

I skipped visiting her in Germany this past January, in part, due to the cold winter weather.

A few weeks ago I received a message that she would be visiting Washington, so I offered to play tour guide.

I took the metro to the Eastern Market station and walked to William Penn House, her Quaker-run hostel located on Capitol Hill.

When I later joked about her hostel being run by Quakers, I realized she had no idea it was a religious group.

We set off down East Capitol Street, our first stop being the Supreme Court building.

A few cameras were set up and a local homeless person was across the street yelling his objections to something or other.

I mentioned it was the first day of the Court's new session and this was a popular place for rallies to gain attention.

Next, we walked across the street toward the Capitol Building. There is a newly-opened, underground visitor's center, however, the day was so beautiful, neither of us was inclined to go inside.

Vanessa liked the sunlight, and I can never get enough of the white Washington buildings and monuments set against cloudless blue skies.

We walked around the Capitol Building and down to the Mall, passing our first monument of a General on a horse.

Vanessa highlighted men on horseback as a popular theme in America (she had previously visited Boston).

Such an observation is exactly the kind I so often make in other countries. For example, noticing the ubiquitous Chairman Mao statues in China.

I showed her the optical illusion at the National Gallery of Art's East Building, where if you stand at the right spot, it appears as though part of the building is only two dimensional like a piece of paper.

In the past, you could walk right up to the building to see it, but someone recently decided to plant shrubbery in front, thus distancing tourists from that particular corner.

Washington Monument as seen from WWII Memorial

We continued westward, through the Sculpture Garden, set across the street from the National Archives.

I suggested we take a look at the original copy of the Constitution and Declaration of Independence, the perfect excuse to get my bald head out of the sun for a bit.

When I visited as a kid, you could walk straight up the front stairs, through the big doors, and into the open rotunda.

These days, the front doors are closed for security reasons. There is a street-level entrance with metal detectors and scanners sensitive enough to pick up the foil wrapping of my gum.

Next, we swung by the White House for photos, and then up to the Washington Monument for 360-degree views of The Mall.

We walked through the World War II Memorial, and then past the always somber Vietnam Memorial. It was here that I had to conclude my portion of the tour as I had an evening activity to attend.

Vanessa's month-long tour of America continues with stops in Niagra Falls, Chicago, Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon, San Francisco, and Los Angeles.

Friday Flashback - Exploring Darjeeling

Shrine to Sherpa Tenzin Norgay, porter who accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary to the top of Mt. Everest — Shrine to Sherpa Tenzing Norgay at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. Tenzing accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary to the top of Mt. Everest in 1953.

I knew nothing of Darjeeling before my trip last year, except for the region's reputation for quality teas.

One of the greatest aspects of long term travel, and around the world trips, in particular, is the freedom the time allows you to change plans and follow your curiosities.

It turns out Darjeeling has a lot to offer, and I was easily able to occupy myself for a full week.

Check out the posts below to see if you'd enjoy a visit to this Indian hill station too:

Getting to Know D-town (first impressions)

Mt. Kanchenjunga, A Tea Plantation, and The Snow Leopard

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (historic toy train ride)

Himalayan Sunrise and Buddhist Monasteries

High Heels and a Head Torch: The Essential Guide for Girls Who Backpack

A little over two years ago, I read and reviewed my first travel book aimed squarely at the female population. Despite having "lipstick" and "women" in the title, I also found it to be perfectly suitable for men.

When I was offered the chance to review Chelsea Duke's first book, High Heels and a Head Torch: The Essential Guide for Girls Who Backpack, I figured, why not? Since I'd learned with the lipstick book to take titles with a grain of salt, it wasn't Duke's cover that tipped me off that this would indeed be a book geared for women. Nor was it the feminine, cursive typography sprinkled throughout the text. Not even the little pair of illustrated, strappy high heels underneath the page numbers gave me that ah-ha moment.

When I started chapter one, "First Things First," which details putting one's kit (or backpack and belongings) together, I realized I was in for a steady dose of the female perspective. I noticed an excessive amount of time spent on clothing and accessories, not just on which items to bring but also on ensuring maximum coordination opportunities. I learned, among other things, that make-up can melt and make a mess in hot weather.

Sure, guys think about what clothes to take, but I've never seen so much time and care devoted to the topic in a backpacking guidebook. Perhaps most writers, even the female ones, assume femininity is sacrificed on the backpacker trail. Chelsea Duke disagrees. For example, she suggests women "take a skirt and heels or make-up - something to make you feel a bit girlie and sexy."

As I continued to read, I started to realize that while a man can effortlessly build a rugged persona during a backpacking trip, a woman has to be creative to maintain her sense of sex appeal (which we all know is required to attract a man - a fact not at all lost on Duke given the number of condom and safe sex references). I also learned women have built-in money belts in the form of their bras. Duke regularly recommended stashing stuff there for safekeeping.

I appreciated the author's tongue-in-cheek sense of humor and could clearly tell she was passionate about sharing her lessons learned from a trip around the world. Duke weaves plenty of anecdotes from her adventures in Asia, Australia, Africa, and South America into the book, offering lists of do's and don'ts at the end of every chapter to summarize her best advice.

She covers the typical budget travel topics, like managing a good night's sleep in hostels and meeting new people. In addition, she humorously touches on topics you'd be hard-pressed to find in other guidebooks, such as tricks for ensuring you can use squat toilets effectively and how to go about bush peeing without making a mess. I imagine reading High Heels and a Head Torch would be like reading a backpacking column in the pages of Cosmopolitan. It's perfect for women, but guys should look elsewhere.

_____

High Heels and a Head Torch: The Essential Guide for Girls Who Backpack by Chelsea Duke is currently available in paperback and for Kindle on Amazon.

Close Encounters of the Creepy-Crawly Kind

Spider with egg sack - McLeod Ganj, India

Have you ever jumped atop a piece of furniture in your home or workplace after seeing a mouse run by?

Grab your significant other to squash a spider?

Or douse a trail of ants with a full can of Raid?

The above reactions are all normal in the cities and suburban dwellings of developed nations, though if you're going to be a world traveler, it's time to desensitize yourself to close encounters of the creepy-crawly kind.

And not just the little buggers you're accustomed to at home - we're talking large, exotic, potentially poisonous, monster-movie inspiring creatures!

Worse than the actual close encounter is the state you'll likely be in - buck naked, or close to it.

The Big Hairy Spider

I encountered a big, hairy spider protecting its egg sack when I walked into my hotel bathroom one morning in McLeod Ganj, India.

I nearly jumped out of my boxers at the sight of it chilling out near the window above my shower/bathtub. Conveniently, I was overdue for a day without a shower.

The next morning, it was still there, and I wasn't about to move it, so I mentioned it to the hotel staff who said they'd take care of it.

Whether it was the hotel staff, or the spider exiting on its own accord, it eventually left the bathroom and I was able to make use of the shower again.

The Big Black Scorpion

The biggest, blackest, badass scorpion I'd ever seen up close walked out of my bathroom in a hostel in McLeod Ganj.

My room was tiny, and I was abandoning it that morning for a 4-day trek.

I couldn't let the beast stick around.

The only thing worse than seeing a critter in your room is seeing it and then losing track of it.

You end up living in fear that it will crawl over your face while you're lying in bed. Or hitchhiking in your backpack!

After snapping the requisite photo for proof of the encounter, I scooted the aggressive little bugger out the door.

A hostel worker looked at it with the same level of surprise that I had and suggested the rain may have brought it out.

How it arrived in my bathroom, I could not figure out.

The Dreaded Cockroach

I use to think the itsy, bitsy roaches that invaded my Arlington, VA apartment were bad.

Then I traveled overseas to places like Belize, where a prehistoric, palm-sized cockroach landed at my dinner table while I was staying at Ian Anderson's Caves Branch Adventure Lodge. It was horrifying.

Luckily, on my trip around the world, I didn't see any more such monsters, but I did run into lots of roaches a good 3-4 times bigger than the ones I'd seen in my old apartment.

Actually, I ran into the first few the 5th night of my trip, as they were scuttling around the floor of my Couchsurfing hosts' house on Tahiti.

One time when I walked into the bathroom of my bungalow on Bali late at night, I had the pleasure of seeing a rather big roach with twirling antennae on my sink.

Not the kind of thing you want to see when you turn on the lights, bleary-eyed at 2 AM.

A few months later, during my attempt to go off the beaten track by visiting Koh Phayam near the Thai-Burmese border, I ended up in a rustic bungalow on a deserted island.

Unlike the well-known islands, nobody goes to Koh Phayam during the offseason. But I digress. The night was spent with my headlamp and roaches galore.

I was so glad the morning arrived without a giant boa constrictor slithering through the open windows and slipping into bed with me.

Ambitious dung beetle - Elephant Sands, Botswana

The Fascinating Flightless Dung Beetle

The flightless dung beetle lives and breathes crap.

When an elephant drops a bomb, these unique dung beetles no doubt follow their noses and jump head first into the massive piles of dung.

As I found out in South Africa's Kruger Park and later Botswana, it is immensely fascinating to watch these beetles at work.

They try very, very hard to form the biggest balls of dung possible.

After observing the beetles at length, I can assure you it is no easy task.

If the dung beetles want to get the balls back to their homes (where I think they use them to lay eggs), they have to ensure the balls are well-rounded.

Otherwise, they can't roll them efficiently. It seemed especially hard for the ones we saw at Elephant Sands (campground) in Botswana because they had to try and roll the balls on soft sand.

Flightless dung beetle - Kruger Park, South Africa

Of course, all this observation requires that you stare at a giant mass of elephant dung - the fresher the better, but it's worth it.

I highly recommend you see them up close if you can.

Now it's your turn. What's the scariest bug, spider or critter you've encountered abroad?

Friday Flashback: Crossing Nepal's Eastern Border

When this jeep taxi got stuck on a pipe in front of us, we had to take a detour

Crossing international borders over land can be full of headaches, from filling out paperwork to bureaucratic delays, insidious money changers and scams galore. After convincing myself to finally leave Nepal, I clearly had the desire for more adventure because instead of making the trip from Kathmandu to Darjeeling, India with new friends, I decided to leave a few days ahead of them and go it alone.

Re-reading the Nepal-India Border Crossing, I'm reminded of the tropical heat and humidity which surprised me upon stepping off my Yeti Airlines flight in eastern Nepal. I can taste the dirt kicked up from the roads, which necessitated a bandanna be tied around my nose and mouth. I can hear the excessive use of horns on the roads once inside India, and see the utter mayhem firsthand - a mix of trucks, cars, tuk-tuks, rickshaws, bicycles, pedestrians, and livestock jostling for position.

Thankfully, one thing I cannot recall, is the smell of the bathroom in that tiny Nepal airport.

Souvenir Spotlight: Thai Beer Can Tuk-Tuk

We've all done it - bought the souvenir from abroad, which once opened at home, results in thoughts like "what the hell was I thinking?"

For me, nothing came remotely close to topping the Thai tuk-tuk carefully crafted out of a Singha beer can.

I'm going to attempt to dissect, for your amusement, how I could end up buying such a souvenir, and massively overpaying for it to boot.

Bangkok's Khao San Road is filled to the brim with souvenir stalls. It is impossible to see every t-shirt design, let alone every form of cheap souvenir on offer, regardless of how many times you visit.

After several months of island-hopping in the south, I returned to the capital with the company of two new Canadian girl friends, Josie and Catherine.

It was their first time in the city, and like most women, they loved to shop!

One night, we took a taxi to a night market situated within a red light district.

According to Lonely Planet, the market had become more of a tourist draw than the strip clubs.

First, we ate dinner at a restaurant across the street, and then we stormed the market.

Not surprisingly, it it was stocked with much of the same cheap stuff found on Khao San Road.

I came across a few small magic tricks and began playing around with them, wondering if I could manage to master each if I actually bought them.

When I asked the guy for the price of a few, he threw out a figure so high, it was worthy of a laugh.

I knew the tricks were probably worth one tenth of his suggested price, but didn't yet have the faith in my bargaining skills to get him so far down. I walked away.

Then, I came across the Thai beer can tuk-tuk and thought it was the coolest thing!

A souvenir that could remind me of my favorite Southeast Asian beer AND the colorful Thai tuk-tuks. The perfect combination, I thought.

Upon asking the price of such a fine piece of art, the man responded with a figure in the area of $20.

Ha! What does this guy take me for, a fool? It was a cheap piece of aluminum - weighed next to nothing, sculpted out of a beer can.

I held it in my hand. It was as light as a feather. I knew it was cheap. The sales guy knew it was cheap.

I countered his offer, probably throwing out a figure close to $5 (which was still too much). He detested, and knocked some Baht off his original price, leaving it still far too high.

I fondled the tuk-tuk again, as though the more I felt it up, the more I would be convinced that it was a wise and worthy investment for reminiscing about Thailand once home.

I threw out another amount, and the guy again detested. Tiring of the negotiation process, as usual, I agreed on his rate.

I think I paid about $14. t seemed like a lot, but I did bargain, and it did come with a sturdy cardboard box to protect it from being shipped half way around the world. How considerate!

The next morning, walking from the hostel to Khao San Road with Josie and Catherine, we passed by a sidewalk display of 50-100 Thai beer can tuk-tuks.

Asking price -- $2

Fair post-negotiation price? Just $1.

The Singapore Food Scene

This past Sunday's Washington Post Travel section featured a great story for foodies about Eating Well on Singapore's Seedy Side.

It brought back memories of visiting the various food stalls around the city and sampling everything on offer.

The author, Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan described the scene at Sin Huat quite adeptly:

The place also has an especially bare-bones setting, even by coffee-shop standards:

On the night we went in June, the restaurant's lights would periodically flicker and go dark for several long seconds before coming back on.

Our table by the grimy, greenish fish tanks also offered us front-row seats to the sweaty cooks reaching into the tanks up to their armpits to scoop out shellfish whenever a customer placed an order.

My first impressions and fondest memories of Singapore will always be tied to the food scene.

I discovered I could enjoy soup for breakfast and savor the stinkiest fruit known to man (durian).

I also learned an original Singapore Sling at the Long Bar will set you back close to $20 and just because a restaurant looks like a dump, doesn't mean it won't be prepared to charge you $35 and up for fresh crab and noodles.

Ironically, I thought to myself at the time, I'm not even a fan of crab!

While both experiences cost more than I expected, it gave me a chance to enjoy a few spots featured on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations."

The unassuming Sin Huat Eating House was the scene of the crab feast.

It sits across the street from one of Singapore's red-light districts, a fact that Ian, my Couchsurfing host, mentioned to me when I first gave him the address.

Friday Flashback - Boudhanath Stupa

Since rioting Tibetans and the iron-fist of the Chinese government meant I'd miss the chance to visit Tibet, I was soaking up as much of the culture as possible in Nepal.

Nowhere was it more alive than around the Buddhist pilgrimage site of Boudhanath Stupa, the 5th World Heritage Site I visited in the Kathmandu Valley.

Life literally revolves around the stupa.

From sunrise to sunset, and well beyond into the night, Tibetans walk clockwise around the stupa, spinning the prayer wheels, repeating mantras and counting them on malas (prayer beads in the form of a necklace), and catching up with their neighbors.

Moving out of the brash and hectic tourist district, Thamel, to the serene, traffic-free area around the stupa was one of the best decisions I made on my trip.

I was able to photograph the stupa in all manners of light, from every angle I could come up with.

I woke up early in the morning to the echoing drums and Tibetan chants from the monks next door in the monastery that ran my guest house...which I much preferred to being kept awake every night by the brash sound of cover bands playing the same rock 'n roll classics over and over.

Om......

Blissful Boudhnath Stupa (my first impressions)

Daily Life In Boudha

More Images From Boudhnath Stupa (less writing, more photos)

My Actual Costs - Europe - Summer 1998

Thoughts on money for the budget-minded

When it comes to travel, there are two things you can count on: (1) you'll always find a cheaper exchange rate after you've traded your money, and (2) you'll always go over budget.

I don't mean to be negative, but these are Murphy's Laws of travel.

Yes, there are more, but this article is only concerned with money.

By the way...Congratulations! If you're sitting somewhere reading this then you are probably already planning a trip.

So you've already decided to go, but now you want to know how much your little adventure is going to cost.

Unfortunately, there is no universal rule or formula that will calculate your total costs.

However, I do hope to show you how easy it can be to put together an estimate, using my own experiences.

The Budget Breakdown Of My 2-Month Backpacking Trip To Europe (Summer, 1998)

Airfare = $450 (round trip, Boston, USA - Paris, France)

Finding a good deal on airfare can dramatically lower your overall costs.

The good news is more of those deals are now easier to find thanks to the internet.

The days of paying a travel agent to find your deals are over.

Now you can perform your own searches from home, in your pajamas.

Since I was traveling with the son of a travel agent, I did not get a chance to purchase my ticket over the internet.

However, it will definitely be the first place I go when I begin planning my next trip.

The cost of a round trip airline ticket is going to vary, depending on your dates of travel and the distance you are traveling.

I can tell you that I thought my $450 round trip ticket from Boston to Paris was cheap.

However, if you are in Australia, and planning a trip to Europe or the USA, expect your airfare to eat up a greater portion of your overall budget.

And for all the lucky British readers, we envy you for your ability to reach mainland Europe for $50.

Regardless of where you're coming from, it is worth your time to research a good airfare deal. Below are some of the basic options you have:

Major Airlines - This is a good place to start. Spend some time collecting average airfares between the major airlines. This will provide you with a good jumping-off point.

Charters - I have to admit, the word "charter" gives me an ill feeling after my experience.

Since charters operate at a very low-profit margin, they have a tendency to make drastic schedule changes on little notice, and even cancel flights altogether.

The former happened to me. I ended up having to buy a ticket home, from United Airlines, for $600 (which was a deal I lucked out on).

Still, if you're willing to take a chance, this can be a cheap, if not reliable, option.

Consolidators - Consolidator fares are airline tickets purchased by "airline wholesalers" and then resold to travel agencies at substantial discounts (up to 70% off regular fares).

Airhitch - This company will place you on flights that have openings.

The catch is that you must be extremely flexible regarding which airport you fly out of, which one you land at, and the dates of your departure and return.

The reward is one of the cheapest ways to reach your destination (continent).

Rail Pass = $450 (10 Day Eurorail FlexiPass)

Travel costs between cities and countries will vary greatly, depending on how much you want to see, and how long you have to see it.

I found my 10-day Eurorail pass to be just right for my 2 months. Of course, it wouldn't have lasted that long (with 2 days leftover) if it weren't for my trusty erasable pen.

There are so many options when it comes to picking out a Eurorail pass, that it is definitely worth your time to find the one that best suits your planned itinerary.

I probably don't need to mention this, since I'm sure everyone reading this is budget-minded, but don't even think about buying a First Class ticket.

They're more expensive, and you're a lot less likely to meet up with other backpackers and young people.

Other options for travel include buses, renting/buying your own car (or motorcycle), cycling, or hitchhiking.

Each has its own pros and cons, which I'm not going to get into here.

Equipment/Clothing = $300 (total cost of essentials only - backpack, sneakers/socks, guidebook)

This is one of the best places to save money. I figured this out after my trip was over, and I was looking back at my various costs.

I got a little carried away with my whole "trip of a lifetime" and ended up buying lots of new things.

A good example of this was a pair of $70 North Face cargo pants I bought.

I had several pairs of pants that I already owned and could have brought, but once I found myself in a big camping store, I couldn't control myself.

I'm still making good use of them, but they were definitely not a necessity for my trip. Below is a list of what I believe is worth the investment for any backpacker.

And of course, you might not need to buy some of these things if you already have them or can borrow them from someone else.

Backpack - Look at buying a good backpack as a long term investment. Most backpackers wouldn't think of traveling any other way (if you've experienced it, you know what I mean).

For this reason, you can easily get several journeys out of a quality pack. I bought my Gregory Chaos (2,700 cubic inches) for $150 at an outdoor store.

I kicked that thing across every dirty train station floor in Europe, and it held up superbly. I'm looking forward to using it on my next trip, and I am happy to recommend Gregory packs to everyone.

Daypack - Most people have a regular book bag that they used for school. If you do, you've just saved yourself $20.

Clothing/Footwear - Don't make the same mistake I made, and go out buying a whole new wardrobe.

However, you should definitely buy a new pair of walking/all-terrain sneakers.

Expect to pay $50-75 for a quality pair. I recommend New Balance, which was on 4 out of 5 of my friends' feet (myself included).

New hiking/walking socks ($10 per pair) are also worth the cost, as you probably can't imagine how painful it can be to walk on blistered and sore feet. *cringe*

This wasn't my experience, and I attributed my comfort to the sneakers and socks I wore daily.

Guidebook - $15-20 expense if you don't have an older brother or sister who can lend you their beat-up copy.

But seriously, although the major all-in-one guides are updated yearly, the majority of the information remains the same.

However, I'd put a limit on how old a book I would use. 5 years sounds too old, right?

Passport/Visas - $60 in the US. I had already renewed my passport for another ten years prior to my trip, so I didn't even have to worry about it.

Optional - Besides the above, there are probably a ton of other items you'll be bringing, but for the most part, they're all optional.

Daily Living Expenses = $2,500 ($50 per day x 50 days)

Establishing your daily monetary allowance will be the most important aspect of your overall budget.

This is where you can get by dirt cheap, or go for broke!

But seriously, I found the $50 mark to be the perfect balance between roughing it and splurging.

I was able to drink, a lot. I ate at one sit down restaurant per day. I was able to go to every museum and castle that interested me. I saw 7 musicals in London.

OK, I'll admit that I went overbudget for 2 of my 5 weeks.

But, it was only because I decided to travel over to England and Ireland, where the dollar isn't as strong.

Plus, I had the extra travel expenses (my Eurorail FlexiPass wasn't good in England).

Anyway, $40 is definitely the lowest daily allowance I would plan on.

Any less than that and you'll have to resort to hitchhiking, sleeping/camping out, and working.

Of course, some people will say that's how'd they'd prefer to travel.

Try it, and if you enjoy it, more power to you.

My Total = $3,700 for a 2-month trip to Europe

At this point, those of you who actually read this article carefully will be concerned because I actually spent several hundred $'s more than I'm showing.

Well, if I could go back and correct my mistakes, the total $ amount above would be correct.

Besides, I don't want to scare anyone off because of my mistakes.

Don't let money alone determine whether or not you can take your trip.

If worst comes to worst, just scale back to a few weeks rather than a few months.

You've got a long life ahead of you, and I'm sure you'll have plenty of other opportunities to travel.

Another option would be to ask others for help in funding your trip.

You can ask to receive portions of your expenses as gifts, such as your backpack or airline ticket.

Find out who in the family has been saving up frequent flier miles for just such a gift.

Offer to repay your relatives once you return.

Or, and I don't recommend this option, get a few credit cards together, and become a slave to debt for a few months.

On that note, happy travels!

Packing List For A Summer In Europe

I brought much of the following on my post-college, 2-month trip to Europe in 1998. Since posting the original list online upon my return home, I added a few reader suggestions. I think most of it still hold true today.

My Chaos Pack - Vientiane, Laos 2008 — My Gregory Chaos Pack - Vientiane, Laos 2008

Backpack - Gregory "Chaos" (Medium, Red, 2,700 cubic inches)
I purposely bought a small backpack to help limit me in what I brought on the trip. This mentality worked very well, and I recommend it highly. When buying a pack, go to an outdoor store that specializes in camping, etc. Ask a lot of questions and shop around. Make sure your pack fits well, and be willing to return it if you have any problems packing it.

It is very important that you spend some time walking or hiking with your pack fully loaded before you leave. This will get you comfortable with how to load/unload it and how to adjust the straps for ultimate performance and comfort. I tested mine out by walking with it on a tread mill for two miles per day, the whole week before my trip. Remember that if you buy a quality backpack, you should be able to use it for more than one trip. [Author's Note: My Chaos is now 11 years old. I've taken it to 29 countries, and my brother borrowed it for his own post-grad Summer in Europe. It still fits and works perfectly.]

Daypack - Jansport (Green, Standard school size)
I wasn't quite sure of what a "daypack" was when I kept running across it in books. The term is actually a catch-all that describes whatever smaller backpack you use to carry around your things during the day, like your camera, journal, food, water, etc. I brought the backpack I used in college, and it turned out work just fine.

Me and my pack - Blarney Castle, Ireland - 1998

Clothing - see below

Pants: bring 1 pair in the Summer, 2 in the Winter. Don't bring jeans - they take too long to dry, and they are very heavy. Do bring khaki pants. They will match all your clothes, they are lighter, and compress better in packing. I bought a pair of North Face pants for my trip. They were very expensive, and I should have just brought a normal pair of khakis. Cargo pants are helpful for their extra pockets. [Author's Note: I used the same pairs of North Face pants and shorts on my RTW trip as I did in Europe 11 years earlier. Don't be cheap - make the investment in a few pieces of quality gear and clothes!]

Shorts: bring 1 or 2 pair in the Summer, none in the Winter. Bring a pair of shorts that either is a bathing suit, or is light enough that it can double as one. You might not even have a need for shorts during your trip. The only time I wore my shorts was during my time in Italy and Nice. If you only plan on visiting the British Isles, you definetly do not need shorts. Check out what the averages temperatures are for the places you are going, and pack accordingly. Only bring what you need.

Shirts: 2 short sleeve, 1 long sleeve. What kind of shirts you bring really depends on where you are going and when. I think it is the biggest variable for clothing. I brought 3 short sleeve t-shirts and 2 long sleeve shirts. I ended up wearing one of my shirts (a polyester Addidas soccer shirt) for 90% of my trip. I threw out one of the long sleeve shirts and one of the short sleeve shirts. I would have gotten rid of a second short sleeve shirt, but it was one of my favorites, and I ended up having to carry it for the rest of my trip. Bring less than what you think you'll need. And only bring shirts that you would be willing to throw away. This isn't a fashion show, you won't even be seeing the same person for more than a day or two anyway.

Sweatshirt or sweater: none in summer, 1 in winter. These articles of clothing really do take up a lot of space. I seriously considered bringing a hooded sweatshirt during my trip, and I'm really glad I didn't. Even when I encountered cold weather in Ireland, I kept warm by simply layering my clothes. A t-shirt, long sleeve shirt, and windbreaker worked just as well as a sweater.

Footwear: 1 pair of all-terrain sneakers, sandals and shoes optional. Your choice of footwear is an area where you don't want to be cheap. I bought a pair of all-terrain New Balances (801). They were expensive at $80, but unbelievably comfortable during the whole trip. Plus, I'm still using them after the trip. Don't bring boots unless it is winter and you plan on hiking through the woods a lot. They are too bulky and heavy. Sandals are good if you are worried about the dirty showers like me. In reality, I ended up using them at the beach and during the warm weather parts of my trip, and almost never used them in the showers. Only bring dress shoes if you are interested in getting into the expensive, trendy clubs of Paris and London. Otherwise, they are a big waste of space.

During my trip, I saw an unbelievable range of footwear. I couldn't believe some of the girls would bring 2-3 inch platform shoes with them. Others wore converse sneakers which offer no support, and fall apart quickly. Whatever you decide to bring, break them in before you leave. Trust me, if your feet are happy, you are happy.

Socks: bring 3-5 pairs. I brought 4 pairs of hiking socks with me. They were expensive at $10 a pair, but they were padded, and dried very quickly. Don't skimp when it comes to your feet. There is no quicker way to problems, than lack of mobility. I attribute my lack of foot problems to my choice of socks and sneakers. Oddly enough, I got giant blisters on my toes, but they never hurt to walk on.

Underwear: bring 3-5 pairs. I brought 3 pairs, and ended up throwing them out for about a week, then bought 2 more pairs. Traveling commando is an effective way to cut down on clothes, as long as you are comfortable. I found that all the walking I did daily led to chaffing, and decided I was pro-underwear on the whole. But be willing to go without, on those dreaded laundry days.

Jacket: 1 windbreaker in Summer and Winter. Don't bring heavy jackets! To stay warm, whatever the temperature, layer your clothes. Then, all you have to do is put your light jacket on to keep you dry. Make sure to bring a jacket during the summer too, in case of rain and cool nights. Bring a jacket that is packable, or compresses easily.

Hat: optional. I brought a Columbia hat with a 360 degree rim. I only wore it at the beach to help fight the sun, but even then it wasn't necessary. No one seems to wear hats like these in Europe. For that reason, I stuck out like the biggest tourist when I would walk around a city like Rome. For that reason, I recommend sun tan lotion, and a hat only if you can't live without it.

Sleep Sack: I don't recommend bringing a sleep sack. About 90% of the hostels I stayed at had sheets, and you could rent sheets at the places that didn't provide them. Even the cheapest hotels have clean sheets. One of my friends did say he used it at a campground in Greece. But, I don't see how a sheet can provide comfort against the ground? Anyway, I thought about throwing mine out several times during the trip, and probably should have. Even when I did need to use it, I was too lazy to take it out from the bottom of my pack, and ended up just wrapping myself in the blanket provided. They are a waste of space, and a giant part of your dirty laundry.

Towel: Everyone has a different opinion when it comes to this. I bought a packtowel and cut it down to about the size of an 8 ½ by 11 inch piece of paper. Although at times, I longed for a normal cotton towel, my approach worked just fine. The best part was that I could use it in the shower as a washcloth, then ring it out, and dry myself off. These things are amazing! If you are not as gung-ho about saving space as I am, then you'll probably want a hand towel. Anything bigger is not really needed.

Swiss Army Knife: This is the easiest way to carry a corkscrew. Everyone drinks wine in Europe, and you'll find yourself coming to the rescue of many people. The knife was also helpful in fixing meals, especially when it came to slicing cheese. It doesn't pay to buy cheap imitations. My friend had one with a corkscrew that broke when we tried to uncork a bottle!

First Aid Kit: You can assemble your own kit, but I found it useful to buy a small one at an outdoor store and then supplement it with more medicine and band aids. I think the price alone was worth it for the little booklet that describes the common travel ailments and their recommended cures. You should bring a lot of band-aids since they tend to fall off (especially when on your feet). Tweezers are good for splinters.

Bring several types of over the counter medications for coughing, fever, headaches, muscle cramps, diarrhea, and general pain. Don't bring full bottles, you only need enough to last you a day or two, thereby giving you time to find a pharmacy. I found the pharmacist I talked to in Venice to be very helpful, I just pointed to the problem areas (throat, nose and head) and he was able to recommend some medicines. You should also make sure to bring supplies of any medication you take on a normal basis.

Soap/Shampoo: I brought two small bottles of all purpose Campsuds. It worked well as shampoo and soap, but was not very helpful in doing the laundry. I also tried using it for shaving, which turned out to be a masochistic experience. When I lost my Campsuds, I was forced to buy a bar of soap, which I ended up preferring. But that meant I had to buy a bottle of shampoo too, and I could only get a bigger than I needed bottle. Whatever you bring, make sure to keep it in a ziploc bag.

Shaving Cream: One travel size bottle will last you two months, and you probably won't even be shaving every day.

Toothpaste and Toothbrush: Bring a medium sized tube and a normal toothbrush will do. You might want to invest in one of those little protective covers if you are squeamish about your bristles getting dirty.

Tampons: For all the female readers, I doubt you'd forget this but I've received many e-mails to add it to the list.

Sun Tan Lotion: Bring a big bottle in the summer, and a small one in the winter (good if you are going skiing?). Of course this is an optional item for the lucky people that don't burn (not me).

Journal: I brought an almost standard size composition book. It was a little big, and I could never just carry it in my pocket. I suggest a pocket size book with no lines. This will allow you to whip it out at any time, while at a restaurant or museum, and make a quick note of something. Remember to draw pictures! And bring a couple of pens too.

Camera w/film: I brought a mid-priced auto-zoom Minolta camera that worked just great. I brought 12 roles of 24 exposure film, and used 10 of them in 7 weeks. Don't bring more than one role of film per week . You'll just end up with a lot of crappy pictures. Instead, try and budget your film, and only take worthwhile pictures. Whatever you do, don't bring a video camera. I've seen people's vacation video, and I've talked to people that have edited them It always turns out duller than when you took it, and you'll probably never watch it. Plus, you'd have to deal with all the voltage differences and the constant charging of batteries. [Author's Note: Remember, this was in 1998 before the advent of cheap digital cameras. I definitely was opinionated back then.]

Back-up glasses or contacts: I brought a back-up pair of glasses, but never needed them. Still, go out and buy a cheap pair if you don't already have one. I can't imagine what I would do if I lost or broke my glasses, and didn't have a second pair readily available. It would also be helpful to bring a copy of your current prescription, so you wouldn't have to pay for a new exam.

Miscellaneous - see below

Spoon: One of the most valuable tools you can bring on your trip. There were countless times I wanted to buy yogurt, but couldn't due to my lack of this utensil. A knife and fork are a distant second to the spoon.

Cups: Not necessary. Just drink from the bottle. In Italy they give you free Dixie cups when you buy a bottle of wine. Sometimes you need to ask for them.

Ziploc Bags: Bring a lot of these things. They were great on my trip. The gallon sized ones are great for keeping wet clothes separated in your pack. They are also good for storing food, and packing up meals for picnics. Cheeses belong in these bags. They are also handy for keeping spillable liquids like soap and detergent contained.

Optional Items

Walkman w/8-10 AA batteries: Bring a cheap walkman, and 2-3 110 minute mix tapes. This was one item I didn't mind carrying around. I used it most when I was traveling between locations. My friends would listen to theirs while walking around the cities. I think that isolates you from your surroundings. You can't fully experience a new culture like that. A bonus is your ability to receive foreign radio broadcasts, which can either be an interesting or boring experience. [Author's Note: Remember, it was still the 90's. These days, bring an mp3 player of course.]

Books: Don't carry more than one small paperback at a time. There are plenty of people willing to trade books, and most major cities have large book stores. If you are reading an interesting author, it's also a good way for strangers to start conversations with you. This happened to me more than once. I suggest "On the Road" by Jack Kerouac.

Rope and clothespins: You definitely don't need to bring these items unless you take great pride in doing your laundry. Don't worry, there is always something to hang your clothes from, normally it's your bunk bed.

Sunglasses: Either you wear them or you don't. I didn't before I went, and I ended up not wearing the ones I brought.

Toilet Paper: Looking back, I think I took all the threats of bad toilet paper a little too seriously. The only country's toilet paper I had a problem with was the Czech Republic. Even then, it was bearable for a few days. I ended up using the toilet paper I brought for my cold. After running out, I never had a problem since I would just steal some from a hostel or restaurant.

Multivitamins: Since you'll be on the road for an extended period of time, you're regular diet will most likely be interrupted. Vitamins are a good way to help make sure you stay healthy on your trip.

Condoms: Always be prepared.

Sachet: A small packet of perfumed powder used to scent clothes. Probably a good idea for girls to carry something like this to help keep their (dirty) clothes smelling good while confined to their backpacks. Available at Victoria's Secret.

6 Tips for Reaching the Greek Islands

The Greek Islands have been luring travelers since Ulysses made his meandering way home to Ithaca from Troy. The beauty of the Aegean Sea, "wine-dark" in the greater depths but translucent turquoise in shallow waters along the shore, combined with the whitewashed buildings that glow in the fantastic Mediterranean sunlight, creates an unforgettable sight.

But the traveler's first questions are how to choose among the islands and how to get there. Each of Greece's approximately 100 habitable islands will show you a different personality. If you only have time for a day trip to the Greek Islands, try the tiny Saronic islands near Athens.

Have you got a little longer? Consider sailing in the Saronic Gulf to explore the beautiful islands of Poros, Spetses, and Hydra. Booking a Saronic yacht charter is a relaxing and stylish option. The largest island, Crete, and the capital, Heraklion, take the longest to get to but are well worth the trip.

Santorini, one of the many beautiful Greek Islands — Santorini Caldera View

At the northern end of the central Cyclades island group, Mykonos has resorts, crowds, nightlife, beautiful villages, and the archaeological site of Delos.

The famous Santorini is at the south end of the island group, nearer Crete. Its dramatic volcano shell, with whitewashed villages clinging to the black and red lava cliffs, represents Greece in many travel books and articles.

Sailing into the caldera of Santorini ranks as the most breathtaking moment I have experienced in the Greek Islands. If you go, fly out if you must, but take the ferry during the day to arrive.

Greek ferries range from rusty old tubs (fewer these days, thankfully) to sleek jetboats. The jet boats and hydrofoils get you there fast but don't cope well with high winds and waves, so the weather may stop them before the slow ferries.

If you're uncertain about where to go and what to explore, you can delve into Greece tours that provide curated experiences. These tours often highlight the best of what the country offers, making it easier for travelers to enjoy their journey without the guesswork.

Table of Contents

Greek Islands Travel Advice

Greek Islands Travel Advice

1. Ferry Reservations

Although you can reserve online, I recommend you don't. Instead, wait until you get to Athens and go to one of the multitudes of tourist agencies around Syntagma Square or near the port at Piraeus.

You cannot guarantee that the schedule you saw online will be the one on the day you sail. Schedules for the Greek Islands are set weekly. While they probably will go on the same hours they did last week, month, or year, there is no guarantee. Don't worry; they are not going to run out of tickets.

2. Ferry Schedule

The Greek National Tourism Office puts out a weekly ferry schedule. If you can find their office, pick up a copy because if the line the travel agent represents does not sail today, they will not tell you about another line that does go today.

3. Booking Accommodation

Because of the whimsical nature of ferry schedules, it is best not to guarantee room rental. Unless you go to the islands in July or August, which is a terrible idea as it's the peak tourism season and, therefore, more expensive, you will not need a reservation in advance.

4. Ferry Reliability

NEVER count on a ferry, even a high-speed one, to get you back to Athens on the same day you fly home. Give yourself a day or even two in Athens before your departure.

5. Avoiding Crowds

If you yearn for less-visited Greek Islands, remember that the fewer visitors, the smaller the population, and the less frequent the ferries are.

6. Embrace the Culture

Think of all this uncertainty about schedules as your crash course in Greek culture, and instead of getting uptight about it, shrug and say, "Endaxi." (Okay.)

___

Now Available: Free Dare Me! eBook

Free eBook

During my 'round the world trip from 2007-2009, I entertained 17 dares from family, friends, and readers in exchange for free beer and cash donations.

"Dare Me!" is a compilation of all the bets I received and what happened when I tried to win them. From the simply embarrassing to the death-defying and disgusting, there's sure to be a dare that makes you laugh, or cringe.

In addition to the original text, I've added extra commentary and new photos, plus the chance to win $30 in my own dare to YOU!

There are two ways to receive your free copy of "Dare Me!"

1 - Subscribe to GoBackpacking via RSS reader or e-mail. A download link for the eBook will be included at the bottom of every post for at least the next 30 days. In addition to an entertaining eBook, new blog posts will be delivered straight to your virtual doorstep. Existing subscribers can simply click on the download link at the bottom of this post.

2 - Subscribe to GoBackpacking's new, twice-monthly newsletter. Simply click this link or enter your first name and e-mail address in the boxes to the top right of this post. The first newsletter will be sent later this week, and will include highlights from the last few weeks of GoBackpacking, as well as links to other great travel-related articles, stories, and interviews from around the web. In the future, I also intend to share stories and advice which will not appear on the blog.

Friday Flashback - World Heritage Sites In Kathmandu Valley

Monkey at Swayambunath Stupa — Monkey at Swayambhunath Stupa

At the rate I'm going with flashbacks, I'll be stuck in Nepal forever, but truth be told, the little Himalayan country holds a special place in my heart.

Here are the posts I wrote after visits to 4 of the 7 World Heritage sites in the Kathmandu Valley:

Kathmandu's Durbar Square (cool architecture)

Touring Swayambhunath Stupa (aka the Monkey Temple, plenty of prayer flags)

Patan's Durbar Square Sans Camera

Hinduism's Holy Pashupatinath Temple (Kama Sutra carving, public cremations, hermits)

Next week's flashback will be dedicated to a 5th World Heritage site, and one of my favorite places in the entire world.

Trip Advice: South Africa, Swaziland, Namibia, Botswana

Editor's Note: The following information was submitted to me in 2000 by Alexander, a traveler. Having visited South Africa and Botswana in 2008, his tips and warnings remain valid. The photos are mine.

Sunrise mokoro ride - Okavango Delta, Botswana

I lived in Southern Africa, including South Africa, until 1995, and traveled extensively throughout the entire region. Also, I visited South Africa, Swaziland, Namibia, and Botswana last April. There are many group travel options available; however, this article primarily focuses on information for individual travelers.

Table of Contents

Africa Travel Advice

Africa Travel Advice

Getting There

The price of air tickets varies significantly, and one must shop around. We found a Chinese travel agency in Toronto and paid $1,150 Canadian for the round-trip ticket with a Dutch airline. Plus, we arrived in Johannesburg and were allowed to depart from Cape Town.

Hostels

South Africa and Swaziland: As backpackers, we stayed in international hostels for about $10 Canadian per night per person (it's a bit of a myth that they only have bunk beds). Mostly, we had our own bathroom. Usually, we book on the same day, but not always, and we were never turned away.

One can benefit from hostels also by meeting other international travelers, and we made friends from all over the world. Additionally, since their interest is not in conducting business, information on places they have visited can prove very valuable.

I don't quite see the difference in comfort between bed and breakfasts (BBs) and hostels, but there are plenty of small, family-owned guesthouses.

Botswana and Namibia

Hotels can cost $100 Canadian and above, but there are also guesthouses and hostels available.

Car Rental

Initially, we considered booking from Canada, but we did not receive good offers. Therefore, we booked through a Johannesburg hostel and rented a fully insured, small Toyota hatchback for Rand 250 per day with unlimited kilometers.

Weather

April and May are excellent months to visit the area. Usually, the summer rains are over (we had two days of rain shortly after our arrival, followed by three weeks of sunny weather).

The temperatures are typically around 22 to 27 degrees Celsius. May evenings tend to be cool, and having a sweater or jacket on hand is advisable.

Scenery and Parks

Although most parts are semi-arid bushveld, there is still an enormous diversity: South Africa's southern and eastern Cape, as well as Swaziland, are partly very lush.

Botswana and many other parts are dry, but one can experience an outright Sahara-like desert in Namibia, mountains in many parts of South Africa, including some snow on the top of the Drakensberg (Dragon Mountains) near Lesotho, and savanna in the Karoo. Nature lovers will get their fill. Western South Africa is uninteresting.

Visiting the Kruger National Park is simply a must, but it requires a few days' stay and patience to find all the animals, as they are not on display. We saw elephants, rhinos, hippos, leopards, cheetahs, and the rest. The lions eluded us, but we only stayed there for one night.

The park is well-run, and one can stay in bungalows or camp. Restaurants and picnic areas are plentiful. The signs "Do Not Leave The Car" should be taken seriously. Every park is safe if travelers adhere to the rules.

The roads are excellent, and the whole park is accessible by any 2-wheel drive. However, for people like me, Kruger is a bit too tame.

I lived in Botswana for a while and worked in the Chobe National Park, where I helped out conducting tours for individual travelers. This park is the real Africa, but it requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle.

Sunsets at the Chobe River are second to none, and in the morning, one can watch herds of 40 to more elephants. Incidentally, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor remarried at the Chobe Lodge, a costly establishment (ranging from $200 Canadian per night and upwards).

Attached are the Moremi Game Reserve and Savuti, which is known for its lion population, and the Okavango swamps, also a must-see if one is in the area.

Our tents at Elephant Sands - Botswana — Our safari tents at Elephant Sands - Botswana

Staying in tents at night is safe as long as the tent is kept closed(!!!), i.e., zip-up! No animal will break into a closed tent.

The main problems of city slickers are that they walk too fast in the bush. Under normal circumstances, no animal, including lions, will ever attack a human being. Yes, there are snakes, but if you walk at leisure and give animals time to get out of your way, they will do so.

If Namibia is on the menu, one can find some flora that doesn't exist anywhere else. An extremely rugged and beautiful country. Interesting are the Namib Desert in the South, the Fish River Canyon, but every other part is a unique experience too.

South African Cities To Visit and Stay Away From

After experiencing a traumatic past, parts of South Africa are experiencing severe economic problems that are most visible in the Rand area (Greater Johannesburg), with up to 50% of Africans unemployed.

It is the world's crime city number one, and neither safe during the day nor at night. The inner city is an absolute "NO GO" at any time, and, frankly, nothing is missed.

[Editor's Note: In 2008, I did a few small, organized day tours in Johannesburg to visit the Apartheid Museum, Soweto township, and the top of Africa's tallest building. While it is still dangerous, I recommend spending a day or two exploring if you're passing through.

Since international flights end in Johannesburg, it cannot be avoided entirely, but one should make arrangements to be picked up from the airport.

There is a tourist office in the arrival hall where one can book a room from a hostel to a hotel, and even some hostels offer pickup services for their guests.

There are also car rental agencies, but I suggest renting a car once you are at the hotel; i.e., one can get a better price.

Coming from North America, it takes two nights to get there, and one night on the return flight.

There is nothing to see in Johannesburg, so one night might be ample enough. Durban used to be a fine city, but it is no longer safe there either. Not as bad as Johannesburg, I don't advise taking evening walks.

Although one must be cautious in any city (meaning don't be an obvious tourist and invite mugging), Cape Town, East London, and Port Elizabeth are as safe as any city in North America, and they are beautiful, especially Cape Town, with its rich history evident in its architecture.

All three are located on the coast, and their beaches are among the best.

Cape Town, Table Mountain, & Lions Head - South Africa — Cape Town, Table Mountain, & Lion's Head - South Africa

Fascinating inland cities include Pretoria, Ladysmith, Pietermaritzburg, and Rustenburg, located near Sun City and Lost City.

If in Namibia, visiting Windhoek with its German colonial architecture and traditional German Beer gardens, as well as Swakopmund with the same offerings, but set in the Namibian desert and along the coast, is a unique and unforgettable experience. Both cities are safe, as is the rest of Namibia.

Gaborone, the capital of Botswana, is an unappealing city, characterized by its dirtiness, overpriced accommodations, and generally safe environment, except for occasional theft. There is little to see in the city.

Swaziland's cities, Manzini and Mbabane, are safe and enjoyable, as is the entire country. As a kingdom, it has many traditional lifestyles to showcase, which one cannot experience in South Africa anymore, except on the tourist stage.

Simply, although an island within South Africa, Swaziland is beautiful, definitely worth a visit, and within a day's drive from Johannesburg.

One country, another island within South Africa, which I purposely left out, is Lesotho. Although the Dragon Mountains cover all of it, it has been in turmoil for twenty years. In my humble opinion, it is not worth a visit.

[Editor's Note: In 2008, I enjoyed a day trip into Lesotho via the Sani Pass and would recommend a few days or nights there.]

Worthwhile visiting are the typical Afrikaner towns (of Dutch origin) in the Cape and Natal. They are, likewise, a unique experience.

Useful Foreign Phrases

Tis the season for new travel books, and they're piling up faster than I can read them. My most recent receipt is "The Third Tower Up from the Road: A Compilation of Columns from McSweeney's Internet Tendency" by Kevin Dolgin.

These are humorous sketches of over 50 world cities by a guy who travels for mysterious reasons. Dolgin is a New York City expat living in Paris who speaks three languages. While it will be another month or two before I post a review of the book, I did read a funny excerpt which I have permission to share here.

" Useful Foreign Phrases"?

by Kevin Dolgin

Long ago, I determined that there are three broad categories of linguistic fluency. The first is the perfectly comfortable level, ranging from your native language to any language in which you can converse with ease, although at the lower end of this scale you probably have a headache at the end of the day.

The second category consists of those languages in which you can generally make yourself understood with the aid of sweeping gestures and meaningful grimaces.

The third category comprises languages that are a complete mystery to you.

I'm fortunate to have three languages in the first category and one or two more in the second. This means, though, that every other language is in the third category. I have a theory about these. For me, these languages are either/or affairs. If you travel to a country in which the principle language is a category III language, then either you work on it enough to get it to category II, or you learn only how to say " please,"? " thank you,"? " excuse me,"? and one phrase that is perfectly nonsensical.

The principle reason for the nonsensical phrase is that it's a sure conversation-opener. No one will imagine that the only thing you know how to say in their language is " My hovercraft is full of eels,"? (to borrow someone else's nonsensical phrase) and therefore an immediate cultural exchange will ensue. Really, this works.

I thought I would give you a number of these, in case you plan on traveling to countries with category III languages. I've given them to you in the languages in which I use them, but you can use the same nonsensical phrase in a variety of languages, and I confess that I have learned the first phrase I cite in four or five different languages, ranging from the original Swedish to Cantonese.

I'll also point out that for the most part, I'm not trying to spell these words properly. I'm using approximate spellings, as if they were spelled the way one would expect (or at least the way I would expect), and not with silly squiggles and such. I'm doing this because the last time I tried to write something in Swedish in a column (about Ingrid the intelligent rat), I was informed via email that I had not gotten it right at all, so I'm not even going to attempt it any more.

Enough of the preliminaries; let's get to the useful phrases.

" My hedgehog isn't stupid."? In Swedish: " Min igelkot e inte dum."?

This was my first nonsensical category III phrase. I used to hang around with a Swede, who decided to teach me some of the language, which was a thoroughly frustrating exercise for us both. Eventually he gave up and suggested: " Learn to say "˜Min igelkot e inte dum' and no one will expect it's the only thing you can say."? I therefore learned this and we tested it out on a couple of friends of his who came from GÃ¶teborg to visit. When I met them I rose, shook their hands, explained about my hedgehog, and smiled. They looked very surprised and started speaking rapid Swedish to me. I protested, explaining that this was all I knew, which they refused to believe, and a long conversation ensued (in English), which quickly veered toward more interesting topics. Hence was born my theory about nonsensical phrases.

This phrase has served me well and long; I even employed it when giving a speech to 350 Swedes, with much the same effect (at a ski resort in the middle of Sweden, but that's a story for another column). The most convincing example, however, did not occur in Sweden at all, but in Massachusetts, of all places.

I was in a bar one evening with a couple of Americans and a very unusual Argentine who had a French name and lived in Mexico. He was part pharmaceutical executive, part fashion photographer, and part party organizer, and he had been telling us a highly embarrassing story about an incident involving fifty cardiologists, an airport security system, and a nipple ring (I won't get into the details, but it ended with his assertion that it would have been much worse had he been wearing his other body jewelry).

Anyway, at that point, a young man entered the bar accompanied by two young ladies. They had apparently stepped in out of a commercial for the World Wrestling Federation, because he was certainly built like a member of that esteemed organization, and was glowering as well. For all I know, he was indeed a wrestler "” " Nick the Neanderthal"? or something.

He looked around the bar, and disappointment registered on his prominent brow ridges, probably because there weren't enough people around to admire his upper arms and the women clinging to them. The three of them sat near us and ordered something (champagne for the girls, warm blood for him). We ignored them and continued our revelry.

Before long, the wrestler muttered something, ostensibly for the benefit of his companions, calling into question the masculinity, or at least the heterosexuality, of our Argentine friend, who luckily didn't understand it (he was just crazy enough to challenge this guy to a duel or something). I therefore hastily took the floor in our little group and began expounding on my theory about category III languages and nonsensical statements (see above). In the course of explaining this, I taught them all how to say " Min igelkot e inte dum."?

Immediately, the two girls sitting with fireplug-man squealed, leaned over, and said, " Din igelkot e inte dum!?"? Then they started speaking in rapid Swedish. I stopped them, explaining that this was all I could say, they didn't believe me etc. The normal routine.

They left their companion and came to join us, asking all the while about how I had learned to say this, and who we were, and what we planned on doing later that evening. Needless to say, this annoyed the inert mass of muscle with whom they had entered the bar, but he was too confused to do anything about it except to grunt " let's go"? to them. They replied with what I assume is a Swedish insult, and he left, after making a rude gesture at us all.

" There is a penguin in my closet."? In German: " Es gibt ein Pinguin auf meinem Schrank."?

German is, in fact, more of a category II language for me, but it's pretty low on the scale, and besides, this is a great phrase to use in German. I particularly recommend it for hotels, if you'd like to get to know the staff. This will also provide you with an introduction to the word " bitte,"? which will inevitably be the response of any German to this phrase. Bitte is a great word. It can mean many things, depending on the intonation. It can mean " please"? or " thank you"? or " are you out of your mind?"?

Needless to say, it's in the latter sense that it's generally employed when responding to the phrase " there's a penguin in my closet."? Of course, you don't want to be nasty, you need to explain rapidly to the hotel staff that there is not, in fact, a penguin in your closet, and that you were just employing your single phrase of German. If you do not explain this quickly, them being German, they will dutifully send someone to remove the penguin from your closet, and that would not be a very nice thing to do to the cleaning staff.

" I would like a large chessboard."? In Spanish: " Quiero un gran tablero de ajedres."?

This actually began as a useful phrase, since I really did want to buy a large chessboard (in Toledo, if I remember correctly, which is a beautiful city that you should definitely visit). I wandered around asking for large chessboards, and did indeed end up buying one (upon which I regularly play). However, I have since employed it as a nonsensical category III phrase.

This has come in handy in a number of instances. One comes to mind from an evening in Barcelona (which reminds me that I'll have to write about Barcelona soon how I love Barcelona!). I was having dinner on the terrace of one of the delightful restaurants near the navy museum, on the harbor. I was alone, which is unfortunate in a city like Barcelona. Anyway, the waiter was a very pleasant gentleman who spoke to me in Catalan, and then in Spanish. I speak neither, and I explained this to him in slow Italian, but then told him that I wanted a large chessboard in Spanish. He was perplexed, he shook his head and pointed at the menu, apparently reiterating that this was a restaurant and that chessboards were not food. I tried again to explain, in Italian, that this was all I could say. He eventually understood and was intrigued.

It was a slow night in the restaurant, and the waiter, who it turns out was an avid chess player, sat down after a while and we engaged in a spirited conversation about chess (specifically about the king's gambit opening), in a mix of Catalan, Spanish, and Italian. A wonderful evening.

" Is that a kind of frog?"? In Japanese: " Koreiwa kairu no ishu des ka?"?

The whole " koreiwa [thing] no ishu des ka?"? construction can be very useful. For instance, if you replace " kairu,"? meaning frog, with " sakana,"? meaning fish, then you can pretty much know what can and can't be eaten in Japan, which is handy, since you can't even make the usual supposition that things must first be dead, let alone cooked, before you eat them. If it's a kind of fish, though, then you can eat it, even if it's trying to swim or crawl away. However, the frog phrase will get you more conversational mileage, at least partially because the answer is rarely " Yes, that is a kind of frog."? (" Hai, korewai kairu no ishu des."?)

This particular phrase has actually proved most useful to me in Paris. I once saw a young Japanese man standing on a street corner on the boulevard Sevastopol, studying a tourist map. He had a backpack on, and sewed onto the backpack was a cartoon character that seemed to be a kind of frog. With no introduction I said, " Sumimasen [excuse me], koreiwa kairu no ishu des ka?"? This was one of the few times that I have actually been able to stun a Japanese person. " Hai! [yes],"? he replied. I nodded significantly and walked away.

It should also be added that the way one comes out with the words is important in Japanese. If you are a man, you should spit the syllables out as though you were expelling vile-tasting marbles from your mouth. If you are a woman, you should murmur them demurely, while behind them you suppress something between a giggle and a plea. I confess that I would hate to have to be a woman in Japan.

" I love you; I want to spend my life with you."? In French: " Je t'aime; je veux passer ma vie avec toi."?

French is a category I language for me, and this is hardly a nonsensical phrase, but I thought I should include this one all the same, not for its shock or conversational value, but rather because it's possible that if you live abroad for a while you may end up needing it. Of course, by that time, I assume French (or whatever the language of your host country might be) would be category I for you as well, but you should be warned about this one either way. I suggest you think twice before saying it "” use the utmost discretion, because it can have a profound effect on your life. However, if used in the right circumstances, and especially with the right person, then I can tell you from personal experience that this phrase is capable of bringing you unspeakable joy.

You can find more of Kevin at these sites:

McSweeney's Internet Tendencies - Kevin Dolgin Tells You About Places You Should Go In Europe

Kevin Dolgin - the author's simple, biographical website

The Blog of Kevin Doglin (collaboration - news of intelligent travel commentary from around the web)

Friday Flashback - Whitewater Rafting & Camping Trip

In Nepal, I had my pick of the rivers. From day trips to 10-day expeditions, costs were low by western standards and opportunities for adrenaline rushes were high.

With only two day trips to my credit, I decided to go with a 3-day trip on the holy Kali Gandaki River, which included a few Class IV rapids, in addition to many Class III's and lesser.

Rafting Nepal's Kali Gandaki River highlights the adventure from Pokhara, to the river campsites, and back again.

Interview - An American Expat In Costa Rica

Astrid, Casey (middle) and me in Medellin

I met Casey during my last week in Colombia.

More than a decade earlier, he had left the United States to start his own business in Central America, which surprised me considering how he seemed about my age!

In the interview below, he talks about his move to Costa Rica after college, how the country has changed since he arrived, why a trip to Panama should be on your bucket list, and his first impressions of Medellin.

GB: Describe your first experience traveling outside the United States.

Casey: My first ever trip abroad was a family vacation to Aruba. I loved it.

Speaking terrible Spanish with Venezuelan tourists, I was very intrigued by the idea of travel abroad, but this visit to a touristy strip of white sand was hardly a real indoctrination into a culture.

My first solo effort was when I studied abroad in San Sebastian, Spain. That was the clincher.

I was the only gringo for miles and professors at my university turned my classes into anti-U.S. rants for my benefit.

I was hooked and wanting more. I only worked for one year in the U.S. upon graduation, then moved to Costa Rica to start my own biz.

GB: How long have you been living in Costa Rica, and what lead you there?

Casey: I moved in 1998. I can't remember the exact moment when or why I decided on Costa Rica, but at my first and only job, I did some research on the then-very-clunky Internet to see where I felt there were opportunities in Latin America that might suit my web marketing skillset.

I looked into Argentina, Venezuela, Mexico, and Costa Rica. In hindsight, I'm very lucky I chose Costa Rica.

GB: How has tourism in Costa Rica changed during your time there?

Casey: Massively. The changes I've seen in just over a decade are astonishing. Once quiet beach towns are not thriving tourist destinations.

Some have changed for the worse, with crime, pollution, and prostitution run amok.

The type of tourists who visit now are also different, following a natural and well-documented curve that starts with trend-setting adventurers and ends with those types who complain if even the most remote resort doesn't have U.S. grade-A steak and CNN.

I cannot complain since my company has benefited directly from the masses arriving in Costa Rica, but it has also given me insight into just how important it is for countries to carefully plan their tourism infrastructure, building codes, enviro-regulations, etc.

GB: What do you appreciate most about living and working in Central America?

Casey: The fact that just about any good idea, well-executed, can work. Competition is weak for those who are willing to dig in and work hard.

I also enjoy the fact that most natives to the region force we gringos to look at life differently, slow down a bit and enjoy the moment.

This change of pace and mindset is also probably the most documented negative for many expats and I have my moments too...but the randomness of life here makes things so much more interesting, I'd hate to be without it.

GB: Why is Panama a "must see" destination for travelers?

Casey: Several reasons:

1. Native Cultures -- Panama is one of the few Latin countries with thriving native cultures.

There are 8 indigenous tribes here, many of whom are living a simplistic lifestyle that hasn't changed in a hundred years.

2. History -- Few countries can compare to the rich history, past, and near-present, of Panama.

From the Spanish Colonial days with regular visits by pirates like Henry Morgan, to the country's fascinating separation from Colombia (due in part to Teddy Roosevelt and some Wall Street profiteers), The Canal, the U.S. military presence, Noriega and the U.S. invasion, it's a country with living history at every turn.

Just seeing the Panama Canal in action and a few former military bases is an incredible site.

3. Local Traditions -- Panama's rich and diverse culture has been the catalyst for a bevy of traditions, from the beautiful to the bizarre.

Carnavales, a week-long celebration that is Panama's version of Mardis Gras, is probably the most famous.

4. Nature -- Most folks don't associate Panama with nature, and the country itself has done a poor job of protecting its resources, but even still the nation is surrounded by lush rain forest and is home to a treasure of bio-diversity.

Nearly everything you can find in Costa Rica can be found here...and then some.

5. Be First -- As mentioned above, you can find most of what you'll encounter in Costa Rica...except hordes of tourists.

Very often you may find yourself alone on a lovely hilltop or beach, wondering.."where are the tourists?"

They're somewhere else, obviously...so enjoy it!

GB: We met while you were visiting Medellin, Colombia for the first time. What were your first impressions of the city and its people?

Casey: It was a really incredible trip, and I appreciate your being my guide on 2 occasions.

What struck me first in Medellin was how lovely the city planning is in upscale parts of town, which makes Panama and Costa Rica look somewhat sad in comparison.

The metro system is fantastic. The weather near-perfect. Of course, the women are nearly as lovely as the legends and overall the people are so darn polite.

That's one element I really wish would rub off on Panama.

GB: If you could wake up anywhere in the world tomorrow, where would it be?

Casey: I'm pretty content to wake up in Pedasi, Panama. That's where I have a B&B with my parents.

It's really neat when we're all working there together, just like at my Dad's hardware store back in rural Pennsylvania...which I HATED :)

The difference this time is that I get to boss my old man around, so that's fun.

Seriously though, I love being in the countryside of Panama where neighbors are neighborly, doors regularly go unlocked and beer is $.50.

If I could press a button and be somewhere else, I'd like to zip down to Medellin more frequently and am itching to get back to Guatemala. What a magical place that is!

Trip Advice For Kenya

Preface: I did some house cleaning around GoBackpacking in preparation for the launch of the new layout. Any useful bits of information that had been stored in the corners of the castle are being dusted off and presented anew. The following information was sent to me around 2000 by a traveler named Alexander.

Since we are all running on our stomachs here the kitchen first:

Kenya, among all the African countries has the richest variety of food to offer, in places ranging from high class restaurants to simple market stalls. You can eat European food there, east-Asian, south-Asian, African food, and what have you, and when I was there I gobbled up the lot.

In Nairobi you want to try steaks. Like in southern Africa, cattle run freely and are not fed with unpronounceable things. Hence, the original delicious taste of beef remains unchanged and I can tell you that is what I am missing most. In Mombassa and along the coast fresh fish is a must! Actually, we went deep sea fishing and brought our catch to the hotel where the chef prepared it for us. I also ate African food (did so for most of my life) and if you eat from stalls go by the worldwide rule "where the longest lines are it is best!"

You might also want to try game! I lived on the farm for a long time and we ate a lot of game; deer, of course, but if you want to try more exotic things, be our guest. It is available.

The restaurant "African Heritage" on Banda Street has developed African food to a cousine at, then, reasonable prices.

At the "Malindi Dishes" on Gaborone Road you get a good mix of Afro-East Indian food.

At the Kariokor Market you get the same food for less than a third from market stalls.

And if you really want seafood in Nairobi then "Alan Bobbe's Bistro" is the place.

(Yeah, well, I am one of the lucky ones. I can eat anything and never put on a pound.)

Kenya is a beer drinking country and the beer is truly very good! The best ones on the market are Tusker and White Cap. Try them.

1 word of precaution: Most digestive problems occur, because a battle between southern and northern bacteria cultures arises. I had problems when I came to North-America. Knowing your own stomach, you be the judge, but if you start taking medication a day or two before you leave your home country, you should have no problems and plenty of culinary fun. Also, African food is very delicious.

Nairobi, where you will most likely arrive if not in DarEs. I stayed at the 68 Hotel, downtown on Kenyatta Avenue. Very comfortable, but a bit pricey. Another hotel where I also stayed occasionally was the Fairview Hotel, which is still very comfortable, but less expensive. Like in the 1st world, you can find hotels at any range, including rooms at the YMCA. I would make arrangements for the first three nights or for the end of the journey to wind down a bit.

Although, Nairobi has something to offer, it is not worth staying for more than 2 full days.

Places to see in Nairobi:

The National Museum on Museum Hill - flora, fauna, prehistoric, tribal ceremonial; very much what Kenya has to offer.

The City Park has rare and beautiful plants, hedges, trees. Although, not dangerous during the daytime, it is more fun to go there with a male companion, lest you want to find one there.

The market on Muindi Mbingu Street.

Traditional dancing at Bomas of Kenya on Langata Road.

Again, a word of caution: There are thieves out there during the daytime and robbers at night. While I have never encountered a problem during the daytime (unlike Joh'burg), it is wise to take a taxi after sunset.

And now we go to my favored city Mombassa

Its old, its exotic, its beautifully degenerated, and it smells like the Orient resurrected, not always good, but sometimes very amazing. It actually consists of two cities and two harbors, of which - no problem guessing - the old city is the more exiting one. Mombassa's history goes back to before the birth of Christ and you will find 2,000 years of tradition there.

Again, the old harbor is the place to go to. There you can watch ocean going Arab Dhows (sailing ships) coming and leaving; yes, they are still in business and transport spices and other things to the Arabian peninsula.

If you want to see the remains of the Portuguese's attempt to take over, visit Fort Jesus.

Along Moi Road you get to the new city through an arch of metal elephant tusks. Worthwhile seeing there are the Indian Bazar, African Market in Mwembe Tayari (a city part), and the Hindu Temples.

Johnny Colt Rocks The Travel Channel

I think it was about 10 AM this Labor Day morning when I joined my parent's for breakfast, and decided to take control of the kitchen TV. I stumbled across the start of a No Reservations episode set in Laos, which I had visited on my RTW trip last year. After breakfast, and that episode, I realized it was a marathon day of Anthony Bourdain leading up to the season premiere tonight.

But first, this rock guy named Johnny Colt blasts onto the TV screen at 9 PM (EST) in the series premiere of At Full Volume. The guy is covered in tattoos and the intro tells of his rock star life in bands such as the Black Crowes. He was well spoken, and I took an immediate liking to him. Yes, I was hooked after the first few minutes. It appeared like this show was a derivative of No Reservations - just amplifying the rock star approach to travel.

The first episode was shot in Thailand, the first segment following Johnny and some Thai rock climbing instructors in Krabi. Of course some of the funny footage was Johnny simply trying to get up the rope ladder hanging off the rock, let alone him trying to scale the sharp limestone rock face.

Next, handling poisonous snakes, followed by a segment about the construction of a Thai musical instrument, and then Johnny exposing the spiritual side of tattooing by getting the back of his head inked at a Buddhist monastery.

And for the finale, Muay Thai training and fighting which Johnny says he has practiced as well. But after seeing the Thai fighters in action first hand, we all knew he was going to get a whooping. Just when I thought the way the fight was being edited in a way that made it seem scarier than it was, Johnny tries to block a kick to the head and ends up with a broken hand! Very rock star to be breaking bones on a pilot episode.

Clearly, the first show is congruent with this rock star's approach to life, which I appreciate. And if I can't be traveling myself, then watching Johnny kick ass across the globe will suit me fine (for now). Check out Johnny Colt's blog for more.

Did you catch the show? Leave a comment and let me know what you thought.

The Decision Not To Travel After 9/11

Big Statues - Luxor(?) Egypt 2008 — Twin Statues - Luxor, Egypt 2008

The morning of September 11, 2001, is well ingrained in my memory.

Within a few days of the attack, I called Adventure Center and verified my October trip was still scheduled, which meant I had to decide whether or not to head for the Middle East.

My parents definitely did not want me to go.

My brother, on the other hand, took the opposing view.

Deep down, I knew fear alone was not a reason to cancel my plans, however, the 24/7 media coverage of death and destruction was effective at swaying me.

And then there was a sign, in the form of Delta canceling their service to Cairo.

Suddenly, I would be due a full refund on my airfare, which made giving up my $200 tour deposit seem inconsequential.

Life seemed to sway me away from international travel, thereafter, as it wasn't until several years later in 2005 that I would dust off my passport and board a flight to Costa Rica.

If it weren't for that complete lack of travel in my early 20's, I might not have decided to make up for it with a big trip around the world in my early 30's.

And it was on that RTW trip that I made sure to visit Egypt - Cairo, the Pyramids, Luxor, and Aswan - complete with Nile River cruise and several felucca rides to make up for 2001.

Booking the Egypt Trip & Finding Airfare (2001)

After I had enough money for the initial deposit, I called Adventure Center back. I spoke to the same woman as before, Maz.

Since my trip is one of the least expensive, the $300 deposit was more than ¾ of the total cost.

I planned on paying the remaining $90 in another few weeks.

I printed out copies of the forms from the web site, and faxed them off. I also asked Maz to find the best airfare possible for my trip.

While the advertisement for the trip states you're flying in and out of Cairo, the truth is that is only if you take the 16 day trip.

In my case, with the 10 day trip, I will be ending in Luxor and therefore need to find a way back to Cairo.

Maz estimated the airfare from Luxor to Cairo to be $125.

The next communication I received from Maz included confirmation of my trip booking, and reservations for a round-trip flight, including the Luxor-Cairo trip and all applicable taxes. The total cost came to $1075.

I saw that as a great price, however I wanted to dig around on my own as I had yet to purchase an airline ticket online.

After checking out big sites like Expedia and Cheap Tickets I realized I wasn't going to beat Maz's price unless I found a budget-minded site. I searched Yahoo for consolidator sites and came across Airlineconsolidator.net.

I entered my trip dates, and came up with some great results. The cheapest airfare was offered by TWA.

Next, I called the consolidator and asked for the details of the flight (times, cost including taxes, layovers).

A day later I received a phone call that the flight I was interested in wasn't available, however there was another one with space but at a higher cost (about $200 higher).

Since I still had to buy a separate ticket for the Luxor to Cairo leg, I knew it wouldn't be worthwhile to take that ticket.

Also, like the flights Maz found, this one had layovers in European airports. That was something I wanted to avoid, if at all possible.

Researching the Egypt Trip & Operator (2001)

By now I'm convinced I need to go visit Egypt, and soon! After reading the ad, I wanted to check and see if the tour operator, Adventure Center, had a web site. I went to http://www.adventurecenter.com and sure enough it was the tour operator's site. I clicked on the About Us link first. I was excited to see they had been running small tours, to destinations around the world, for 24 years. I began to feel much more comfortable about giving them my money.

Next, I wanted to find the specific trip that was advertised, so I clicked on the Our World link, and then the continent of Africa. I was surprised to see so many different trips being offered. I began reading about all kinds of different trips, but I realized I better focus in on what I can afford, so I found the trip that was advertised on the Frommer's site. At first glance, there was a lot of great information including:

Day by day tour itinerary
Methods of transportation
Accommodations and Meals included
Size of the group
Tour staff and support
Departure dates
Cost
Picture of the sailboat we are to take down the Nile

Still hungry for information, I clicked on the site's FAQ link. I cruised through about 20 questions and answers, and decided the next step would be to call and find out about the availability of my trip. After work, I called Adventure Center. The woman who answered had a strong English accent. Adventure Center was located in California, so this raised my curiosity.

Feluccas on the Nile - Aswan, Egypt 2008

I mentioned the specific trip that interested me, as well as where I saw the ad for it. I commented on the fact that there seemed to be a trip leaving every week of the year. She replied that while that is true, they tend to fill up quickly. After mentioning the time period I was interested in traveling (October/November 2001), she ran through the dates that were available.

We went to Adventure Center's web site together, and she pointed out additional information was available for the trip. I clicked on the View Dossier link on the left hand side of the page, and Adobe Acrobat opened to show a more detailed itinerary. I asked the woman if she had ever taken a trip through her company, to which she replied "yes." We spoke briefly about what the experience is like. She mentioned that most of the people on the tour groups are English, as it was an English company. There were however some Canadian and Americans as well.

For some reason, I found the idea of taking a trip through them even more appealing. Not that I have anything against us American travelers, but sometimes we can be a bit obnoxious and less interesting than our foreign counterparts. I asked about the general age range for the travelers that choose this trip. She said they tend to be of varying ages, but on the younger side since you will have to sleep on the deck of the sailboat for part of the trip. The thought of sailing down the Nile, asleep on the deck of a sailboat, under the Egyptian sky, quickly filled my mind.

I was about out of questions, so I told her I would call back when I was ready to book my trip.

My Egypt Trip (2001)

Preface: 9 years ago, I was actively planning a trip to Egypt for the first time. I started documenting the process on this site (long before this blog), however my plans would come up against the shocking events of 9/11. This is a four part series, with the first three parts having been written in 2001.

Wednesday, August 8, 2001, was a day like any other. I woke up and went to work.

As I was spending some downtime checking out travel sites, I came across a deal that caught my eye on the Frommer's site.

My decision was instantaneous - I was going to Egypt, and soon!

Things seemed to come together for me as if stars were coming into alignment for some great event.

First, I had some money coming my way thanks to a bonus at work, a tax refund, and some auctions on eBay.

Second, I had over three weeks of vacation time saved and had yet to go anywhere in the year 2001.

Third, the deal just seemed too good to pass up. Here is the exact text I saw that morning:

If there is one indispensable visit, it is to the ancient culture of Egypt. And a famous tour operator has now created a nine-night visit there for only $390 plus the cost of round-trip air to Cairo.

You visit the Pyramids the Sphinx, and the Egyptian Museum downtown, and then go by overnight train to Aswan where you board an Egyptian felucca--a sail driven riverboat--for a three night cruise to all the classic sights of Upper Egypt and back to Cairo.

Since a round-trip ticket to Cairo can be purchased for about $700 from various airfare consolidators, you enjoy the entire experience for about a thousand dollars, as low as such costs go. -- Adventure Center

It wasn't only the price that attracted me. Let's take a closer look at the well-written ad that helped convince me to go to Egypt for the first time.

The first sentence refers to the trip as "indispensable" which makes it sound like I'm less than a world traveler if I never make it to Egypt.

Second, the words "ancient culture" bring forth images of a time long past.

Culture is a buzzword for us travelers. We love immersing ourselves in a foreign culture. Why else would we travel!

The second sentence helps build my confidence in the deal by stating that it's not just a normal tour operator offering the trip, but a " famous" one.

By now I'm feeling safe that this is a reputable operator, even though I will do some homework on them later.

The second sentence also states the length of the trip, nine days, which seems like a good period of time to spend there considering the distance I will have to travel.

It also states the cost, and what is not included (airfare), as well as the destination city (Cairo).

The third sentence gives me a feel for some of the things I will see and do on the trip, as well as our modes of transportation (rail, river).

The fourth sentence helps push the deal by giving an estimate of how much airfare will cost, which helped me estimate the total budget I will need for the trip.

The sentence ends by reinforcing the fact that the trip is a great deal.

The last piece of information is the name of the tour operator and a phone number to call so that I can follow up.

9 Inspiring Quotes For Independent Travel

The air was soft, the stars so fine, the promise of every cobbled alley so great, that I thought I was in a dream. - Jack Kerouac, On The Road

We are the music makers, and we are the dreamers of the dream. - Arthur O'Shaughnessy, Charlie and The Chocolate Factory

We shall not cease from exploration and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started... and know the place for the first time. - T.S. Eliot, The Wasteland

Travel is ninety percent anticipation and ten percent recollection. - Edward Streeter

Bear in mind that the special advantage of vagabonding is the experience of not really knowing what happens next, which you can obtain at bargain rates in all cases....The challenges you face offer no alternative but to cope with them. And in doing that, your life is being fully lived. - Ed Buryn, Vagabonding in Europe and North Africa

What do you suppose will satisfy the soul, except to walk free, and own no superior? - Walt Whitman, Leaves of Grass

Travel is glamorous only in retrospect. - Paul Theroux

The day is of infinite length for him who knows how to appreciate and use it. - Goethe

Old men and far travelers may lie with authority. - Unknown

Friday Flashback - Making Friends Through Meditation

Of the 15,000+ photos I took on my trip, this is one of my favorites. Maybe it's the zen-like smiles we are all offering the camera after three days of meditation, yoga, and Buddhist teachings from our American monk. Or the healthy effects of vegetarian meals. Or the great friendships I formed. Probably a little of everything.

Steven (black tank top) and I would reunite again in McLeod Ganj, India, and a third time on Koh Phangan, Thailand. Before the meditation class, he had trekked to Everest Base Camp without porter or guide, meeting up with a few Japanese guys along the way. I'll never forget the way he told that story. After we separated in India, he headed for Australia where he's been picking melons and continuing to practice yoga on the farms. I have a feeling we'll manage to stay in touch until we're both in old age homes.

Marie (shawl, far right) met up with Steven and I in McLeod Ganj, which made for a great reunion. After we separated in Pokhara, she headed off for the Annapurna Circuit without guide or porter. After about 6 months in India and Nepal, she returned to England.

Stefan (gray/green shirt, far right) hosted me at his massive apartment in Bern, Switzerland for a few nights. He makes a mean fondue, and was a lot of fun to see again (even in the dead of winter). Stefan had trekked to Everest Base Camp on his own too, and considered climbing a 6,000-meter peak while up there, but he had failed to get a necessary permit in advance.

Favorite Motivational Song Lyrics

Music is a passion of mine, which is why I was devastated in Phnom Penh last year when my Creative 8gb MP3 player stopped working. It contained ALL my favorite music.

Thankfully, though not for the music industry, it's incredibly easy to get new MP3's by the longboat load in Southeast Asia. I bought a new player, some new music, and survived the remainder of my trip.

Here are some of my favorite motivational song lyrics. Which bands or songs motivate you to venture into the unknown?

It's Alright Ma (I'm Only Bleeding) by Bob Dylan

From the fool's gold mouthpiece
The hollow horn plays wasted words
Proves to warn
That he not busy being born
Is busy dying.

Advertising signs that con you
Into thinking you're the one
That can do what's never been done
That can win what's never been won
Meantime life outside goes on
All around you.

A question in your nerves is lit
Yet you know there is no answer fit to satisfy
Insure you not to quit
To keep it in your mind and not fergit
That it is not he or she or them or it
That you belong to.

For them that must obey authority
That they do not respect in any degree
Who despise their jobs, their destinies
Speak jealously of them that are free
Cultivate their flowers to be
Nothing more than something
They invest in.

But I mean no harm nor put fault
On anyone that lives in a vault
But it's alright, Ma, if I can't please him.

And if my thought-dreams could be seen
They'd probably put my head in a guillotine
But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only.

It's My Life by Bon Jovi

This ain't a song for the broken-hearted
No silent prayer for faith departed
And I ain't gonna be just a face in the crowd
You're gonna hear my voice
When I shout it out loud

It's my life
It's now or never
I ain't gonna live forever
I just want to live while I'm alive (It's my life)
My heart is like an open highway
Like Frankie said
I did it my way
I just wanna live while I'm alive, It's my life

This is for the ones who stood their ground
For Tommy and Gina who never backed down
Tomorrow's getting harder make no mistake
Luck ain't even lucky
Got to make your own breaks

Living for Today by Pennywise

you look around what do you see?I'll tell you what I see is a world belonging to me take time to find what you may dream it's all right there within your grasp just beyond what you can see we're the ones, the only ones, strong ones, proud ones we're living for today those for the past and tomorrow they'll have hell to pay and if your life is going by to fast it's time for you to slow down time for you to make it last before you trip and slip and you will miss this happy little stepping stone just before eternal bliss your life goes by before you know you gotta take time to slow down better take time to veer off the road enjoy the sights while you are here there's nothing to fear but fear itself who knows when the end is near don't make plans with your hands tied you'll never know you're missing out repeatedly on the things that help you grow you've got to own your soul you've got to take control find a one day plan young man get this straight live for today

Every Single Day by Pennywise

See all the people- Longing to be
Living their lives regretlessly
Trying to repress the pain in their lives
Reassuring themselves- Living with lies
No way to break through- Not on my own
Can't push away all the sorrow I've known
Have to release every thought or care
And take control life is a dare
I can start over today
Live my life a different way
Can't I find a way to erase bad times to make
Everything OK
I'll start over and live- Every single day
Regrets and memories- No remorse- No apologies
No reason for me to despair- No future at all
Ask if I care
I got time- On my side- Twenty four hours in my life
Can't hang on to what's in my past
Full speed ahead- Hard and fast

Holiday in Cambodia by The Dead Kennedys

So you been to schools
For a year or two
And you know you've seen it all
In daddy's car
Thinkin' you'll go far
Back east your type don't crawl

Play ethnicky jazz
To parade your snazz
On your five grand stereo
Braggin' that you know
How the n*ggers feel cold
And the slum's got so much soul

It's time to taste what you most fear
Right Guard will not help you here
Brace yourself, my dear...

It's a holiday in Cambodia
It's tough, kid, but it's life
It's a holiday in Cambodia
Don't forget to pack a wife

You're a star-belly sneech
You suck like a leach
You want everyone to act like you
Kiss ass while you bitch
So you can get rich
But your boss gets richer off you

Wasn't Born to Follow by The Byrds

Oh I'd rather go and journey where the diamond crest is flowing and
Run across the valley beneath the sacred mountain and
Wander through the forest
Where the trees have leaves of prisms and break the light in colors
That no one knows the names of

And when it's time I'll go and wait beside a legendary fountain
Till I see your form reflected in it's clear and jeweled waters
And if you think I'm ready
You may lead me to the chasm where the rivers of our vision
Flow into one another

I will want to die beneath the white cascading waters
She may beg, she may plead, she may argue with her logic
And then she'll know the things I learned
That really have no value in the end she will surely know
I wasn't born to follow

Favorite Motivational Quotes (From Movies)

Planning and saving for a trip can take awhile. We all need to draw our motivation to stick with it from somewhere, and our favorite movies, songs and books can be just the source of support (or laugh) we need. Over the next few days, I'll share some of my favorite quotes that keep me motivated.

Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it. "“ Ferris Bueller's Day Off

Michael Bolton: Peter, you're in deep shit. You were supposed to come in on Saturday. What were you doing?
Peter Gibbons: Michael, I did nothing. I did absolutely nothing, and it was everything that I thought it could be. "" Office Space

My name is Richard. So what else do you need to know? Stuff about my family, or where I'm from? None of that matters. Not once you cross the ocean and cut yourself loose, looking for something more beautiful, something more exciting and yes, I admit, something more dangerous. So after eighteen hours in the back of an airplane, three dumb movies, two plastic meals, six beers and absolutely no sleep, I finally touch down; in Bangkok. -- Richard, The Beach

There are so many things I want to do, but I end up doing not much., Celine, Before Sunset

Warning: If you are reading this then this warning is for you. Every word you read of this useless fine print is another second off your life. Don't you have other things to do? Is your life so empty that you honestly can't think of a better way to spend these moments? Or are you so impressed with authority that you give respect and credence to all that claim it? Do you read everything you're supposed to read? Do you think every thing you're supposed to think? Buy what you're told to want? Get out of your apartment. Meet a member of the opposite sex. Stop the excessive shopping and masturbation. Quit your job. Start a fight. Prove you're alive. If you don't claim your humanity you will become a statistic. You have been warned. -- Tyler Durden, Fight Club

The older you get, the more rules they are going to try and get you to follow. You just gotta keep on livin', man. L-I-V-I-N. "" Wooderson, Dazed and Confused

George Hanson: They're not scared of you. They're scared of what you represent to 'em.
Billy: Hey, man. All we represent to them, man, is somebody who needs a haircut.
George Hanson: Oh, no. What you represent to them is freedom.
Billy: What the hell is wrong with freedom? That's what it's all about.
George Hanson: Oh, yeah, that's right. That's what's it's all about, all right. But talkin' about it and bein' it, that's two different things. I mean, it's real hard to be free when you are bought and sold in the marketplace. Of course, don't ever tell anybody that they're not free, 'cause then they're gonna get real busy killin' and maimin' to prove to you that they are. Oh, yeah, they're gonna talk to you, and talk to you, and talk to you about individual freedom. But they see a free individual, it's gonna scare 'em. "" Easy Rider

Trust me, it's paradise. This is where the hungry come to feed. From mine it's a generation that circles the globe and searches for something we haven't tried before. So never refuse an invitation, never resist the unfamiliar, never fail to be polite and never outstay the welcome. Just keep your mind open and suck in the experience. And if it hurts, you know what? It's probably worth it. -- Richard, The Beach

Hello, and welcome to Amsterdam's finest and most luxurious youth hostel. We feature one medium sized room containing 70 beds which can sleep up to 375 bodies a night. There is no bathroom. Nor is there one nearby. If you do not wish to have your valuables stolen I suggest destroying them or discarding them right now. You can also try hiding your valuables. In your anus. This will deter some but of course not all thieves. Once you are inside, the doors are chained and locked from the outside. They will not be opened again until morning, no matter what. Should a fire occur due to our faulty wiring or, uh, the fireworks factory upstairs you will be incinerated along with the valuables that you have hidden in your anus. Tips are greatly appreciated. "" Hostel Clerk, Eurotrip

.....and my favorite.....

And me, I still believe in paradise. But now at least I know it's not some place you can look for, 'cause it's not where you go. It's how you feel for a moment in your life when you're a part of something, and if you find that moment... it lasts forever... -- Richard, The Beach

Souvenir Spotlight - Religious Box From Tibet

Tibetan religious item — Turquoise & coral - two hallmarks of Tibet

When I returned from my backpacking trip, I unpacked all the boxes I sent home like a kid on Christmas morning. Some of the stuff had sentimental value, some of it was just as cool as I'd remembered when buying it, and a small percentage fell into the "why the hell did I buy this" category. Going forward, I'll be sharing some of the cool souvenirs I picked up on my journey.

To kick things off, I present a rectangular box with turquoise and coral inlay. Both stones are very common to Tibetan crafts. On the box, you'll see the omnipresent "Om" symbol. The actual religious object, which looks akin to a dagger, is full of iconography starting at the top with an animal head, then moving into the lightning bolt (if I recall correctly) which has the red coral in the middle of it, and then a dragon's head from which the turquoise-tipped point emerges.

The Tibetan gentleman (pictured) who sold it to me on a side street in McLeod Ganj, India explained the symbolism of it all to me (with help from his Mom), but I soon forgot. Someday, I will look it all up again.

My first encounters with genuine items from Tibet occurred in Nepal. It was there that I initially grappled with the ethical dilemma of whether it was appropriate for me to be purchasing such items. After all, couldn't it be considered a Western robbery of Tibet's cultural heritage? Maybe I was over thinking it, but if Tibetans fleeing their homeland know that tourists are paying a lot of money (by local standards) for such items, perhaps it would encourage them to bring more to sell.

Typical Tibetan stall in McLeod Ganj, India

I presented my concerns to several Tibetans selling their wares. One gentleman who appeared to be in his early twenties, convinced me that it wasn't necessarily a bad thing. He argued that Westerners will take the items home to their countries and care for them - in effect, preserve the cultural heritage of Tibet. Though I was contemplating a purchase from this man (and eventually went through with it), I could sense he was being sincere by the tone of his voice.

The religious item of turquoise, coral and metal from Tibet is dear to me. I feel like it is a small connection I have to a country that I was just a few days away from setting foot in for the first time. It is my connection to a people that remain at war with China over religious freedom. It was clearly handmade. It was probably the property of an upper-class Tibetan. I imagine it has a rich and mysterious history, and hopefully I can give it a safe home for the rest of my life.

A Backpacker's Guide To Massages In Asia

Editor's Note: This article is *not* about happy endings!

Full body massages are a luxury for most Westerners - the occasional gift to be given to a woman, or the benefit of having too much disposable income for a man.

If you're heading to Asia, you will soon find that the opportunities for affordable, quality massages and spa treatments are endless. I quickly became a connoisseur during my time in Asia.

Here's my general take on the quality of services on offer in various countries. One's experience can vary widely based on the masseuse's skills.

Balinese massage tables. — Balinese massage tables

Table of Contents

Bali, Indonesia
Chengdu, China
Kathmandu, Nepal
McLeod Ganj, India
Thailand
Cambodia
Laos

Bali, Indonesia

While you can get a one-hour massage for $5 on Kuta Beach, do you want sand and salt from the ocean being ground into your skin by a surly masseuse while a swarm of Indonesian hawkers tries to sell you on their wares? No, I didn't think so.

There are more than enough spas where you can pay an extra dollar or two for air-conditioning, aromatherapy, a comfortable massage table, a little privacy, and the occasional free cup of tea afterward.

I enjoyed Bali's massages and spas more than those in any other place on my trip. I always appreciated how they would place a fresh flower in a small bowl and set it under the hole in the table where my face would be.

Chengdu, China

The Chinese love a good foot massage, and while watching TV and enjoying the massage in a room with my friend and his girlfriend was interesting, it certainly wasn't my favorite experience.

If you're into ancient Chinese medicinal treatments, you can give Ba Guan a try; however, be sure to read about my experience with it first. You've been warned.

Kathmandu, Nepal

I was fresh off the plane in Kathmandu, the capital city of one of the most impoverished nations on the planet.

When I looked down a forlorn Thamel street and noticed a sign for a massage, I was still thinking in terms of Balinese and Chinese spas. How wrong I was, yet I decided to follow through.

I walked up a flight of stairs and entered the dark, decrepit office. I haggled for a price comparable to what I'd paid in other countries and dressed down in a bare room.

As for the massage itself, it was OK, but when your environment looks like a flophouse, it is hard to enjoy the experience.

McLeod Ganj, India

I was so sore from the last day of my Indrahar Pass trek that I could barely move.

The pain in my shoulders and ribs left me bed-ridden for 48 hours, so I decided it was an opportunity to try Tibetan acupuncture and massage.

I doubted the doctor's assertion that I would feel like new after three sessions, but to my surprise, she proved me wrong.

Thailand

I had my first Thai massage in Bangkok a day or two after arrival. As I'd heard, it was akin to having a yoga instructor yank your limbs around.

I was especially displeased when she cracked my neck. The whole experience lacked the sensual, relaxing nature of the Balinese massages. This was closer to Muay Thai fighting on a bed.

After a few pleasant massages on Koh Phangan, I decided to give traditional Thai massage another go on Phuket.

On my second round, the masseuse was amazingly strong for her petite size. Eventually, I asked for mercy.

I had to repeat myself a second time, and even then she continued to use more force than was enjoyable.

That said, not every experience in Thailand revolves around intense traditional massage. Many travelers come here for slower, more restorative experiences, like booking a wellness retreat in Thailand, where massage is just one part of a broader focus on relaxation, yoga, and overall well-being.

I decided Thai massages were not my bag.

Cambodia

By the time I reached Cambodia, I was starting to feel massage fatigue, so I needed to make the prospect a little more interesting.

In Siem Reap, I ran across a small family-run place that offered blind massages. That's right. The masseuses were blind.

I found my first shiatsu massage to be an enjoyable experience, and couldn't help but feel I was doing my part to support a small, family business.

Laos

My first massage in Laos was a disaster. I opted for my first hot stone massage since backpacking in Costa Rica in 2005, yet the kid who gave it was a mess.

The stones were smaller than I expected and f'ing hot. It felt like he was dropping scolding hot lava rocks on my back, and every time I'd wince in pain, he'd say "sorry." Fifty sorries later, I was happy to get the heck out of there, and he knew it.

I was willing to bet one of Luang Prabang's proper spas would offer a better service, and indeed, the next massage I received was worth three times the price.

Here's A Quick Way To Spice Up Your Travels

When I was a kid, I remember being in my best friend's kitchen as he suckled a bottle of Tabasco sauce for sheer pleasure. I assumed he could inherently handle it because he was Asian, and I wasn't. In reality, the reason had to do with the differing cultural environments in which we were brought up. I simply wasn't exposed to spicy food on a day to day basis, so I had a minimal tolerance for it, and thus didn't find it palatable.

My misconception about spicy food changed soon after college. I was working for a dot com company and went out for Thai food with a few coworkers. It was only the second time I'd had it, the first being my last night in Paris several months earlier. It was a whole new world of flavors, and I also found out people have the ability to build a tolerance to spicy food in the same way they can build a tolerance for alcohol or nicotine. I decided to take a proactive approach toward building my tolerance for spicy food from that point forward. It was as simple as exposing myself to it on a more frequent basis, whether it be the selection of a spicy restaurant dish or a medium-spicy salsa instead of non-spicy.

Since developing a greater tolerance for spicy foods, I've found myself in a better position to taste a wider variety of salsas and foods abroad. Here's a sampling from my spicy past:

Belize

I took my tolerance for spicy salsas to a new level when I got hooked on the local favorite - Marie Sharp's Fiery Hot Habanero Pepper Sauce. I brought a bottle home and dabbed the orange salsa on everything from tortilla chips to waffles. Anything I ate lacking this fiery habanero sauce was deemed boring.

China

My friend Charlie made it a point to take me out for Hot Pot while I stayed with him in Chengdu, a city of 10 million located in China's spice province - Sichuan. I'd already become use to the ubiquitous pool of spicy oil which accompanied our foods of choice, however Hot Pot would take the experience to a whole new level. A cauldron of spicy oil is placed over a burner in the middle of your table, and allowed to gurgle until hot enough to cook your selected raw meats and vegetables. The cumulative effect after a few bites was akin to sucking face with the sun - damn HOT!

But as those who enjoy spicy food know, there is an undeniable pleasure and unique excitement that comes with eating spicy foods and pushing your boundaries.

Thailand

My dare to eat one of India's hottest foods, a regional dish from Goa called vindaloo, wasn't completed until I reached Bangkok. Yes, I know it probably wasn't the same, but as the video proves, I did my due diligence to get the spiciest chicken vindaloo the Indian restaurant's chef could cook up for me.

These are my fondest food memories, filed under spicy. Now it's your turn.

Do you have a favorite memory from trying spicy foods abroad?

This Week In Travel Podcast & Thai Hilltribe Treks

Visiting a Karen Tribe in northern Thailand

Last weekend, I read "A Village, Or A Zoo" in the Washington Post travel section's cover story about the author's experience trekking through the hills of northern Thailand, visiting various ethnic tribes.

The main draw was the same as it was for me and just about every other backpacker visiting Chiang Mai - the Karen Tribe who use metal rings to push their collarbones down and give the impression of extended necks.

Such exotic cultural norms seemed right out of the pages of National Geographic, but easier to access - less than $100!

When Gary, Elliot, Jen, and Chris brought the article up for discussion in the third installment from This Week In Travel (at the 30-minute mark), I again took an interest and thought I'd relay my personal experience.

I'd heard backpacker's mention hill tribe treks in northern Thailand almost as much as the Full Moon Parties on Koh Phangan, so I made it a point to go on one myself.

Every other shop in Chiang Mai was offering them, so arranging it was easy.

Upon my group's arrival in the Karen village where we would spend our first night, there was little excitement or interest shown by the Burmese people.

They continued to go about their normal business creating handicrafts, with the younger women posing for a few photos. It was thoroughly anticlimactic.

I don't know what I expected, but it felt hackneyed.

I wrote a 3-part series on my experience trekking in northern Thailand where you can get a feel for the typical adventure, complete with elephant rides, campfire games, and whitewater rafting.

It is one of the few activities on my trip around the world which I would *not* recommend.

Instead, at a slightly greater cost, I believe a similar trek in less developed northern Laos would've been more interesting.

The Adventures I Still Dream About: My Ultimate Travel Bucket List

Me ice climbing on Viedma Glacier in Patagonia, a travel bucket list adventure. — The author ice climbing on Viedma Glacier in Patagonia

My travel bucket list includes a few dozen travel experiences I hope to accomplish in my lifetime:

Climb Mt. Kilimanjaro.
Travel overland through eastern Africa (Victoria Falls to Nairobi).
Take the Trans-Siberian Railway.
Experience the Tibet train-the world's highest railway-on a breathtaking journey from China to Lhasa.
Take the 2-day, mountain bus ride from McLeod Ganj to Leh, India.
Bicycle down Corocio, the "world's most dangerous" road in Bolivia.
Handglide in Rio de Janeiro.
Trek to Machu Picchu.
Play Indiana Jones in Petra, Jordan.
Recite lines from Casablanca in Casablanca.
Trek in Patagonia.
Climb a 6,000-meter peak.
Live in Medellin again.
Visit the motherland - Russia.
Push my comfort boundaries with a jaunt to Damascus.
Take a Zen meditation course in Japan.
Eat cobra heart in Vietnam (just like Bourdain).
Drive the Pacific Coast Highway in California.
Trek to Everest Base Camp.
Spot wild moose in Alaska.
Oktoberfest in Munich (yes, I know it is for the tourists!).
Go ice climbing.
Take a wilderness survival course.
Swim with a dolphin.
Go whitewater rafting on the Zambezi River (Class V).
See the US Men's National team play in the World Cup abroad.

Friday Flashback - Paragliding In Pokhara

Himalayan eagles soared around us as we caught the thermals up and made swooping turns to the left and right going down. It took a few minutes to feel comfortable in the seated position, with nothing below you but the terraced farmland. At least with skydiving you know you're going straight down. Paragliding is all about staying aloft. I can't imagine a sensation closer to flying then being up there with the birds. It was fantastic.

-- from I Want To Fly Like An Eagle, April 2008

Travel Talk With Jerry Haines

Travel Blogger Essentials — Flashpacker Minimalism - journal, camera, headlamp, laptop, and money

Arlington's Clarendon Center was ground zero for Travel Writing, A One-day Short Course available through the county's Adult Education program. Our teacher was Jerry Haines, a former lawyer and college journalism teacher turned Washington Post columnist. The class was made up of 7 women and 3 men, ranging in age from early twenties to late forties.
-- So You Want To Be A Travel Writer, March 2007

I invited Jerry out for coffee as part of my effort to reconnect with everyone since returning home.

Since taking his travel writing course, we'd loosely stayed in touch.

While I was traveling, he'd check in on this blog from time to time.

When I had the opportunity to write about Medellin for AskMen.com, he offered me some guidance from his 12 years of travel writing experience, which I greatly appreciated.

We met at a Starbucks in Clarendon, near my old apartment. It was good to see him again.

Since taking his class, I felt more worldly and accomplished, having blogged for two whole years through 20 countries.

We talked about a variety of subjects and shared stories from abroad.

An interesting theme that came up was the changes rippling throughout the traditional print media and how it affects travel writers and editors.

Contractions in budgets and staffing at newspapers across the country have lead to editors taking early leave and looking for freelance work on websites.

Jerry said that he had lost a lot of the contacts he used to have relationships with at print publications as a result.

While this trend may increase competition on the more prominent travel blogs, it also appears the web is becoming an equalizer of sorts.

The ability for a travel blogger to develop a broad audience and personal platform for their travel writing can lead to opportunities to be published alongside those former travel section writers and editors.

You can read Jerry's good-humored writing at a few of these online publications:

Seven Magic Travel Words on World Hum
Articles for the LA Times
Casual Eats Travel articles

Do you want to hear more of Jerry's perspectives on the state of travel writing - past, present, and future?

If yes, please leave a comment, and I will see if he is open to a written interview.

6 Reasons I Appreciate Being Home

As much as I love being on the road, coming home is nice, too. After all, you know you've changed as a person from your experiences abroad. Still, you won't truly see or feel that difference until you return to the same environments and situations you frequented before leaving.

2007 Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, DC

It's like some mad social experiment. Here are six reasons why I appreciate being home.

Table of Contents

Benefits of Being Home

Benefits of Being Home

Living with my parents (temporarily)

I bet you could see this one coming a mile away. A comfortable, familiar home with clean sheets, soft towels, reliable utilities, Mom's home cooking, stocked refrigerator and pantry, privacy, use of a car, and no nightly fee for a bed. It's the perfect place to relax on a deep seat sectional from Home Reserve, offering both comfort and style.

Reconnecting with family, friends, and coworkers in person

The key here is physical proximity to the people you care about, and vice versa. It feels great.

Three weeks ago, I went out to happy hour with my former bosses (like old times). They asked lots of questions and let me unload as many stories as I could over a few drinks. I went up to NYC to visit my brother and a friend, too.

Two weeks ago, I stopped into my old office and walked through the cubicles to see so many familiar faces. The reactions I received were wonderful. And of course, there is getting together with old friends and finding out what they've been up to while I was away.

Generally speaking, the closer the friend, the less likely they were to have followed this blog. I find this a bit strange, but don't hold it against them.

Ease of communication

A significant reason I enjoy traveling internationally is the challenge of exploring countries where you do not speak the native language.

On the other hand, when I returned to the US and could suddenly walk up to anyone and ask for help, a movie recommendation, or a dance at the salsa clubs, it was a heck of a lot easier! It's nice to have a break from constantly struggling to communicate.

DC United and US Soccer Matches (live)

Amongst DC Uniteds Barra Brava fanclub — RFK Stadium in Washington, DC

I made it a point to catch some great soccer matches while away:

Sydney v. Melbourne
FC Barcelona v. Atletico Madrid
Three in Colombia (Medellin's rival teams - Nacional v. Medellin, Sao Paolo v. Medellin, and Colombia v. Peru)

BUT nothing beats supporting my local favorite, DC United. The best offensive players haven't changed much, but everyone else has gotten mixed up, and I'm still trying to get on top of the current roster.

Not only am I looking forward to donning my United jersey for a live match, but I'm also planning to attend a World Cup qualifier, the USA v. Costa Rica, in October.

The ability to focus on my blogs and writing for others

Getting a new HP laptop in Colombia was a step in the right direction after having to rely on internet cafes and a tiny ASUS netbook for 16 months, and I did gain my first paid freelance writing experiences down there.

Still, I've really been able to focus better now that I'm home. Learning to use Twitter and social networks more effectively, discovering new blogs, and moving forward with integrating my old static website into this blog with WordPress as the content management system are all the result of being in a familiar environment once again.

Yoga

I've wanted to start a yoga practice for the year since I left India; however, I knew I'd have to wait until I returned home to attend classes consistently.

For the last few weeks, I've been going to classes at my gym three times a week. Having practiced meditation for several years before my trip, I find yoga to be a related, though refreshingly new alternative.

Thai Delivery, Mexican, & Kampuchea

Panang Curry with Chicken and Chive Pancakes

One of the many reasons I would love to live in NYC is the wildly diverse food scene.

Within a few days, there were a zillion options within a few blocks of my brother's apartment in the East Village.

First off, classic American hot dogs. Next, the Japanese noodles on St. Mark's Place.

And then there was my first Panang curry with chicken since Thailand. I was feeling lazy and requested delivery from Thai Terminal based on solid Yelp reviews.

The dish was spicy and delicious, the mere smell of which transported me back to Southeast Asia.

By this, I mean no offense to the only Thai restaurant which opened earlier this year in Medellin - you offer a necessary service to the entire Antioquian region of Colombia.

Then there was the brunch of huevos rancheros verdes at La Palapa Cocina Mexicana.

OK, I must admit this take on my favorite Mexican dish wasn't quite what I expected - a bit heavy on the green tomatillo sauce and cream, but it tasted good.

The restaurant's menu, interior design, and overall atmosphere felt authentic.

Kampucheas Bwah Moun — Kampuchea's Bwah Moun

And for the final dinner of my visit, I went out with my brother, Kai, and his friend for Cambodian food at Kampuchea.

I ordered the Bwah Moun, a flavorful soup of jasmine rice, chicken broth, organic chicken breast, tiger shrimp, ginger, Thai chili, lime juice, sprouts, and herb.

My mouth is watering again just looking at the photo.

But what if I have a craving for beef tripe or goat at 2 AM?

NYC's diversity accounts for all foods, as I found when we ran across a food truck offering both these treats and more in the late-night hours.

That reminds me, I have an unfinished dare to eat a scorpion.

Would You Accept A Free Trip To Colombia?

I'm not going to get all sentimental on you, at least not for long. By now you know how I feel about Colombia, and Medellin in particular. Since arriving back in Virginia four weeks ago, I can't help but compare everything here to what I left behind - the climate, the geography, the people, the pace of life, the music, the nightlife, my gym.

So imagine my surprise when I am contacted with an offer to go on a fully paid 2-week trip back to Colombia the day after my 33rd birthday, September 26. The purpose would be to tour the country's best sights and blog about it. Seriously? I couldn't make this kind of an offer up if I tried! And there is more I'm not quite ready to share yet as I'm awaiting the details, but let's just say if you liked my $25 Amazon.com giveaway, you'll LOVE what is coming next!

This opportunity reminds me of a post I wrote back in 2007, Would You Accept A Sponsored Trip Around the World, about the Travel Channel's then new show - 1,001 Things To See Before You Die.

Looking back at the comments on that post, both from myself and guys who've really blown up in the online travel world the last few years - Mike of Vagabondish, Ian MacKenzie of Brave New Traveler, and Dan at Voyagner, it is ironic to find myself actually in the situation we were debating before my RTW trip!

In case you were wondering whether I'd accept a sponsored RTW trip, here's what I thought back in April 2007:

What would I do, you ask? I'd like to think, deep down, that I would have the strength to decline the offer, in favor of doing it myself. Now, after the first RTW trip is completed, all bets are off!

At this time, I can honestly say I feel completely congruent by accepting the opportunity before me. And I look forward to sharing every exciting aspect of it with you!

Would you accept a sponsored trip to Colombia?

Please leave a comment, retweet this post, Digg it, or hit StumbleUpon and let's get the debate going!

Tibetan Pendants, Japanese Noodles, French Vodka, And Mini-Burgers

Typical Om Mani Padme Hum Pendant — Typical "Om Mani Padme Hum" Pendant

I met my friend Kai at the corner of St Mark's Place and something. This neighborhood in the East Village use to be a lot edgier - the domain of punks and the down and out. But that was then, and now there are just a few shops and people left to reflect that old image. When Chipotle Grill moves in, you know the times they are a changing.

Before he had arrived, I ducked into a Tibetan shop and browsed the silver pendants with various Buddhist designs in turquoise, lapiz, and coral. In Nepal I paid $12-15 for one, and wore it upon arrival in India, but either the necklace broke while I was walking to my hotel with the backpack on, or it was stolen when it fell off my neck once I was shown to my room. Either way, I was upset to have lost it so quickly. I bought another in Darjeeling for about the same price, and at some point mailed it home, but with all my souvenirs unwrapped, it is nowhere to be found. In NYC, the exact same pendants were going for $50.

We got dinner in one of the many Japanese restaurants that lined St Mark's. We sat at a counter facing the kitchen. I ordered spicy noodles with pork and cabbage. While we were waiting for food, we began to share a bottle of sake. Despite being a rather cheap one, it still tasted smoother than the few other sakes I've consumed in my life. The noodle meal was delicious, and Kai assured me that the atmosphere and setup of the restaurant was very similar to what you find in Japan.

After dinner, we caught a taxi to Broadway East bar which was in the shadow of the Brooklyn Bridge. Kai said he'd been there before with my brother as part of a wrap party for a movie featuring McCauley Caulkin. The Home Alone child star was there too.

The layout of the bar/restaurant was weird, so I won't try to explain it, but eventually we met up with Kai's friend Ray and his friend whose birthday it was, and some of his girl friends. We hung out for awhile on the lower level bar, which had a DJ. It was a small space, but we seemed to be entertaining ourselves. Since returning home, I'd been anxiously awaiting the time when it'd be right to enjoy my favorite top shelf liquors. I may have splurged on gourmet food from time to time on my trip, but I never ordered a Grey Goose and tonic. Delicious.

Sometime in the early morning, we left the bar and took a cab to the Meatpacking District on the west side, but I was a bit out of it by then. Kai, of course, knew where to go. I can only recall cobblestones and lots of women dressed up nicely. We went into one bar and walked out with two mini hamburgers. Normally, I'd think they wouldn't be good if they're so small, but these burgers were a good call at that time of night.

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