Blog - Go Backpacking

Shenzhen Sights And Snooker

I managed another Skype call to Michelle and set up a time to meet her outside a metro stop in her neighborhood. I invited Adam to join us for the day's excursion. The metro was easy to navigate as there is only one full line operating. Shenzhen has gone from a fishing village to super-wealthy border city in less than 30 years. The big office buildings are all new, and the metro's first line just opened two years ago. According to David, 85% of the 10-million some residents are illegal. Take that America!

Upon greeting Michelle at the metro entrance, we walked to a nearby Lianhua Mountain Park. We walked up the hill to a large sculpture of the Chinese leader who followed Chairman Mao. He had a great panoramic view of Shenzhen below. On the way down, music began to play from the faux-rock speakers I had noticed along the paths. More odd than the piped in music was the fact that the first song of the day was Auld Lang Syne, followed by Adel Weisse. A normal walk in the park turned surreal.

Next, we caught a bus to a big food market where we ambled past fish heads in the seafood section, chicken' feet in the meats area, and fresh fruits and veggies. Tons of stalls also operated indoors, offering everything under the sun including spices, mushrooms, dried seafoods, and every day household items.

I was curious to check out Walmart in China, and found it to be much the same as what you'd find in the USA, except for the food offerings. A giant vat of pig's knuckles and live softshell turtles were unlikely to stoke the appetites of most Americans in the heartland.

We stopped back at David and Michelle's apartment for a rest, and met up with David in the evening for another tasty dinner. He suggested we play a bit of snooker, and I was game for a new game.

Adam was able to identify almost every photo of a snooker player in the pool hall (on account of them all being British or Irish), while I looked at the gigantic table and wondered how anyone could manage to knock balls in accurately. To my surprise, I edged out Adam in a game that went on for quite some time. Soon after, we said goodbye to David and grabbed a taxi back to the hotel. I had a plane to catch the next day.

Crossing Into Mainland China

The logistics of taking the train from Hong Kong to the mainland China border (adjacent to the city of Shenzhen) could not have been easier. We passed through immigration almost too quickly, and stepped out of the administrative building to a massive city with practically no signs in English.

The Lonely Planet does a poor job of listing accommodations here. We started to walk north along a main thoroughfare, scouting for cheap hotels. The first one we checked out had a squat toilet, which Adam immediately rejected. I was tired, and my pack was weighing heavy, so I would've been fine to stop there (knowing I'd only be in town for 2 nights). Instead, we ambled onward toward the second of three budget listings in the guide.

Before we could find the Lonely Planet suggestion, we came across an international hotel with doubles for about $32/night. After verifying the room had a western toilet, and was quite a bit bigger and nicer than the last spot (at $22/night), we booked it for two nights. Once I hopped into a hot shower for a good 15 minutes, I was glad Adam had higher bathroom standards than me. It had been weeks since I could simply stand under a steaming hot shower for as long as I wanted (and be comfortable about it).

After cleaning up, I successfully managed a Skype call from my first Chinese internet bar. On the other end was Michelle, the wife of David, an American English teacher who was the son of my mom's friend back in Virginia. I've learned the value of local contacts, so he was the sole reason I went to Shenzhen for a few nights.

We met in the lobby of my hotel, and walked around until we found a Hunan-style restaurant. While the menu had photos, I left the ordering up to David and Michelle. The food that arrived did not resemble in any way the Chinese food I was accustomed to eating at home. It was all far better! In fact, I was already thinking about the need to put in some effort to find authentic Chinese food when I go back to the USA. Sweet and sour chicken suddenly sounded like an abomination!

We made plans for me to meet up with Michelle the next day for some sightseeing. The rough itinerary would include a park, food market, and Walmart.

Final Thoughts: Macau

Highlights -

walking around town taking in the sights, sounds, and smells
meeting and hanging out with John from Turkey
touring the casinos: The Wynn (my favorite), Grand Lisboa, MGM Grand and The Sands
winning a few dollars at Sic Bo and War
meeting the friendly guys from Nepal

Discoveries -

just because The Lonely Planet says room rates are triple the cost and hard to come by on a Saturday doesn't mean it is so
it feels a lot better to win money than to lose it (duh!)
turtles aren't meant for eating
watching a bit of TV from time to time can be a nice way to relax
patience = hot shower

Eating -

Pork dumplings, Portuguese egg tarts, softshell turtle casserole, Tsing Tao and Macau beer, fried rice, lots of tea, Haagen Daaz.

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

Average Daily Budget (combined with Hong Kong) -

$65

Farewell Macau

Our last day in Macau was rather low key. We ran into some Nepali guys who were vacationing in China. They were quite friendly, and spoke fairly good English between them all. I exchanged e-mails with one of them, hoping a little insider help could benefit me in a few weeks.

I ducked my head in one of the Portuguese churches to ensure I was taking advantage of the cultural opportunities in the city. In the evening, Adam and I went for a walk around the pedestrian mall, and bumped into John who had been shopping for some new clothes. We wrapped up the night watching several soccer matches in our room. Adam was ecstatic about the availability of Premiership games abroad, as they apparently broadcast fewer in the UK.

The next day, we checked out around half past noon, said goodbye to John, and caught the ferry back to Hong Kong. We checked back into the 13^th floor hostel where we met, though this time they gave us a 2-bed room for the same price because they recognized us. The free wi-fi internet access across the hall was a great service for guests.

The next day we would head for mainland China.

Turtle Casserole

Sleeping late almost every day is one of my favorite aspects of vacation. Even when my bed is as hard as a rock, the ability to schedule one's day around sleep is wonderful. John had to wake up early to attend to his visa and Adam was still out like a light when I arose around noon. I returned to the same restaurant we ate at late the previous night since I felt it was a safe place to order something adventurous for lunch (by the way, I've yet to see a scorpion for sale).

While I saw a few restaurants in Singapore with fish tanks filled with unlucky seafood, the sight really became familiar in Hong Kong and Macau. Softshell turtle casserole with garlic and onions seemed benign on the menu, and there were none of the little guys swimming about in front of the restaurant to detract me, so I ordered it. I am still stuck in a western mindset whereby any meat I order will lack bones, excessive fat, skin, or shells in this case.

The casserole arrived piping hot. I could immediately see chunks of meat with little bones, possibly ribs, sticking out. It looked good enough, until I started poking around. Images of the little turtle being hacked to pieces upon my orders started to flash through my mind. I could identify the shell bits and came across a square chunk with the turtle's tail (which I couldn't bring myself to eat). If the head was in there though, I didn't see it.

My culinary adventure would've been rewarding had the turtle tasted good. Aside from a few bits of tender meat, I passed on sucking the bones dry and through in the napkin (longing for a batch of juicy pork dumplings).

Uprisings In Tibet

In light of recent events, I am jumping ahead for a moment...

Saturday, March 15, 2008 @ 3:15pm

I'm sitting on a deck, watching the rain, the sound of electric saws buzzing below at Sim's Cozy Guest House break the silence.

Earlier in the afternoon, upon checking my e-mail, I read a disturbing message from The International Campaign for Tibet.

The Tibetan uprising which began at the start of the week as peaceful protests by Buddhist monks had become a full-fledged riot.

The protests for religious freedom coincided with the 46th anniversary of a large-scale uprising against the Chinese occupation in Tibet in 1959.

Foreign tourists reported streets filled with police and military vehicles, Tibetans burning Chinese shops, and people losing their lives.

I opened up The Lonely Planet's Thorntree forum to find a message that as of March 14, all Tibet Tourist Permits were revoked.

I was due to get mine March 17, the day before my much-anticipated 48-hour train ride from Chengdu to Lhasa was set to begin.

To top it all off, I had just paid for my exit flight to Kathmandu.

As much as I've wanted to take the train and visit Tibet, being there in the midst of riots and a military crackdown would be far from ideal.

At best, my freedom to move around Lhasa and apply for access to surrounding areas would be dramatically affected.

At worst, my safety could be threatened. If there is one underlying concept I've taken away from Buddhism over the past 6 years, it is that attachment causes suffering.

So I am going to try my best to gracefully let go of my intended plans.

I will hopefully receive partial refunds on my transportation, and figure out how to spend the next two weeks before flying to Nepal.

My mood = melancholy

_______________________

Please keep the Tibetan movement for freedom in your mind during this time, as well as those on both sides of the issue being harmed as a result of the violence.

Lazy By Day, High Rollers By Night

We all slept until at least noon on Sunday. I got up first because my bed had the consistency of concrete. I couldn't figure out how to heat up the water for the shower so I skipped one for the first time in weeks. I grabbed a pork dumpling lunch at a nearby restaurant. Sooooo delicious. I haven't been a big dumpling-eater in the past, and quickly realized I'd been missing out.

I spent a few hours on the internet during the afternoon, ensuring you have lots of posts to read and photos to view. And then it was off to a friend rice dinner with Adam. John noticed us as he was walking back to the room and joined us for a bit. After dinner, I suggested we head back to the casinos, though I was more interested in the sightseeing at the American ones than gambling. I lost $6 on roulette the previous night, a small reminder of why I don't want to gamble.

I was keen to explore The Wynn because I knew it was one of the newer ones. We caught the fountain show before entering the casino. Once inside, Adam was intent on finding another game of poker, however it would later be apparent Texas Hold-em was only played at the older/smokier Grand Lisboa. We stopped at a dice game called Sic Bo where a guy was doubling his money by simply betting that the 3 dice would randomly land on a sum between 4 and 10. After a few rounds, Adam and I joined, and started to win too. After we were up about $25 each, we walked away. Our next game was my childhood favorite, War! Adam sat down first, and I couldn't resist following suit. We both won a few hands, and I walked away with about $35 in chips burning a hole in my pocket.

Before heading to the MGM Grand, I bet on another two impromptu rounds of Sic Bo, losing both times. We walked to the adjacent MHM Grand, and while Adam couldn't find poker, I managed to lose another few rounds of Sic Bo. I called it quits about $6 ahead for the weekend. Our last casino was a 15-minute walk away from the others. The Sands was a bit older, though occupied prime real estate along the waterfront near the ferries.

Again, no Texas Hold-em, and the restaurants had all closed for the night. As we poked around the waterfront, we ducked into a virtually empty arcade for some cheap fun with our winnings. It took awhile until we got a cab back to the hotel which was frustrating. We were all hungry again so we found a restaurant near the hotel which was still open. We ate, drank our large bottles of Tsing Tao, and per Adam's request to the friendly night manager, watched English Premier League soccer. It was another of a long list of surreal moments,C being so far from home, with new friends, having a great time. Such moments are seemingly born out of serendipity. The more time you have to travel, the more time you have to experience them!

Bonus Video - Fountain Show at The Wynn

Visiting Macau, The Las Vegas Of The East

I passed up several opportunities to visit Las Vegas with friends as I saved for this trip, so I decided to check out the Eastern version, Macau, an hour's ferry ride southwest of Hong Kong with Adam. The side trip would also allow me to earn another stamp in my passport.

I'm not big on reading about the histories of the places I visit (at least not in terms of what is provided in guidebooks) however I can tell you the Portuguese previously controlled the city which is evident in the architecture and food, though 95% of the residents are Chinese now. But seriously, Adam and I were going because of the casinos which have overtaken the downtown waterfront area.

The catamaran-style ferry ride was fast and smooth. The leather seats made it feel like we were flying first-class, and the boat was clean and smoke-free. It was an incomprehensible improvement over my previous ferry ride in Indonesia. Upon arrival in Macau, we disembarked and passed through Immigration after about a 15-minute queue. We stepped outside to the hustle and bustle of taxis, buses, and casino shuttles without a clue. Our first sight was the Macau Grand Prix stands.

Eventually we queued up for a taxi, and headed past the casino district to the central part of town. The older area of Macau is the character-filled place to stay versus some fancy casino which would have only served to insulate us as we lost a fortune gambling. But more importantly, the central part of town was cheaper!

As we asked about prices and availability at two budget hotels, we ran into a Turkish guy, John, who was also looking for a cheap room while he was in town to renew his Chinese visa. He spoke Chinese, so he became involved in our attempts to negotiate lower room rates between two or three hotels. In the end, we managed to get a 3-bed room for $8 per person, per night, for three nights. Not bad for arriving late on a Saturday afternoon without a plan.

After some rest in our new abode, we went out to explore town in the early evening. We walked along a pedestrian-only street filled with shops and people. The street and sidewalks were composed of black and white tiles. They seemed to go on forever. As we reached the casino district, we wandered into the eye-catching Grand Lisboa. We grabbed a bite to eat together at a deli overlooking the main, smoke-filled casino floor. Adam would settle into games of Texas Hold-em Poker while John and I tried to breathe fresh air by the bar. Eventually we headed back to the room, leaving Adam to lady luck for the night.

Final Thoughts: Hong Kong

If Kuta in Bali felt like a culture shock at first, then Hong Kong felt like a culture A-bomb. After a day or two, I started to feel comfortable. If you've been to a few big cities (NYC, London, Paris, Rome, etc) then it's not too hard to get the hang of finding your way around yet another one. Like Sydney, I could see myself trying to live in Hong Kong. At the least, I would love to return and spend more time getting to know Hong Kong Island.

Highlights -

experiencing the hostel life at Mirador Mansion
riding the train system
first view of the skyline on Hong Kong Island (day and night)
hanging out and getting to know Adam
shopping for the Asus laptop in The Golden Computer Center
video arcades (specifically Dance Mania and Guitar Freaks)
Symphony of Light show
navigating the Mid-level Escalators
riding the tram up Victoria Peak
walking around my first giant Buddha sculpture and monastery
lots of delicious food

Discoveries -

I can wield a pair of chopsticks better than I previously thought!
My standards for bathroom size are remarkably low as long as there is hot water.

Eating -

Chicken curry, sushi, duck, goose, chicken, fried rice, snacks from 7-11, Tsing Tao beer.

# of Nights Couchsuring -

Average Daily Cost (combined w/Macau) -

$65

Indian Visa And Last Night In Hong Kong

I returned to the Indian consulate Friday morning to pay my Visa fee and drop off my passport. It was brought to my attention that I could only obtain a 3-month (versus 6-month) Visa abroad which went into effect immediately, thus limiting my time in India until May 29. I was offered the option of waiting to get it in Nepal, however I wouldn't get a refund on the processing fee I already paid and didn't know if I'd want to wait another 5-7 days in Kathmandu after having completed a 2-week trek. Out of frustration, I asked for the 3-month Visa, paid the cost, submitted my passport, and headed to a good internet cafe to pound out my frustrations in the form of internet usage.
After a good 3 hours on the internet, I was a bit beat. I realized since I was planning on a looser DIY trek in Nepal in early April, I could head over to India earlier than planned as well, and probably get a good deal of touring done before having to leave May 29. If nothing else, giving myself a deadline in India will keep me on track to enjoy Southeast Asia and beyond.

For our last dinner in Hong Kong, Adam and I headed to Sushi One, a popular restaurant with a queue in the evenings. We arrived early enough to avoid a long wait, and I enjoyed my first foray into plucking sushi dishes off of a conveyor belt.

After dinner, we had a few beers at a nearby bar, and got some sleep. We were destine for Macau in the morning, a 60-minute ferry ride southwest of Hong Kong. Macau has been labeled as the Las Vegas of The East, and while high stakes gambling was not in my future, a foray into such a gambling mecca sounded too good to pass up.

World's Largest Outdoor Seated Bronze Buddha

Day 5 in Hong Kong was dedicated to taking the MTR to Lantau Island, home of Po Lin, a Buddhist monastery containing Tian Tan Buddha statue, the world's largest outdoor seated bronze Buddha (apparently there is a bigger one indoors somewhere).

Adam and I took the MTR to Lantau Island, and then waited in a 2-hour Disneylandesque queue for the Ngong Ping 360 cable car linking the town of Tung Chung with the monastery in the hills/mountains above. The ride offered stunning views of the Hong Kong Airport, though the haze I still had trouble accepting as pure pollution, obscured everything. Seriously, even on days with what appears to be blue skies, it feels like there is a fog enveloping the city.

I opted for a cappuccino and banana walnut muffin at the requisite Starbucks we found inside the mock Chinese village outside the monastery. Then we were off to climb the steps to be at one with the big Buddha (my first of this size mind you). Incense was burning in large pots as we climbed up, reminding me of the ubiquitous offerings in Bali.

If there was a time I felt the sky was truly blue above Hong Kong, it was right above the Buddha. We also checked out the monastery where I encountered the largest incense sticks I've ever seen near the entrance.

Inside one of the buildings were a collection of beautiful gold Buddhas. We had to await the end of a ceremony before entering. I know I'm going to see heaps of Buddhas during my time in Asia, so I hope I can enjoy them all equally. Buddha burnout is within the realm of possibility.

By now, I was starting to feel pain in my left knee from whatever I did to it in New Zealand. We took the bus back down the hill, the train back to Kowloon, and got some rest before getting dinner at a Cantonese barbecue restaurant and returning to the arcade for some cheap fun.

Escalators, Victoria Peak, Dance Mania, And A Light Show

After our shopping spree the previous day, Adam and I headed to Hong Kong Island for some touristy sightseeing.

First on my list was the Mid-Levels Escalator, the world's longest, transporting people 800 meters uphill past restaurants, bars and shops in the SoHo district.

After 20 minutes of riding the series of escalators, we were met by an anti-climactic end.

Looking back, it would've been more fun to have spent the next few hours on a bar crawl back down the hill, stopping in bars for drinks and dinner along the way.

Instead, we had a hell of a time finding our way to the Peak Tram by way of the Zoological and Botanical Gardens.

Streets seemed to bend and curve in confusing ways.

Eventually, we made it to the tram, paid for our tickets, and rode the sucker up Victoria Peak. It was a rather steep ride, with fantastic views of the city below (despite the omnipresent haze of pollution).

Once atop the peak, we grabbed a Tsing Tsao beer from the scenic outlook inside Bubba Gump's restaurant.

I have no shame in admitting this stuff anymore!

We took a taxi back down to the IFC building, however, the free scenic outlook from floor 55 had closed 30 minutes earlier.

We boarded the ferry back across the Harbor with some time to kill before watching the Symphony of Light, the world's largest permanent light show (projected from atop the buildings on Hong Kong Island).

We ducked into an arcade next to an internet cafe I had used previously.

Once inside, Adam was in his element, though all of the games, and most of the instructions, were in Chinese.

Still, I managed to find an affinity for Guitar Freaks, Dance Mania, and Dance Dance Revolution.

At 8 pm, we ducked out to the harbor and watched the light show.

It started with the buildings being introduced one by one, as lights and lasers flashed from atop each one.

Then the music kicked in (from speakers around the observation deck we were under), and the symphony of lights began.

It was surreal and fantastic. It is officially a must see in my book.

Electronics Shopping At The Golden Computer Center

Adam had offered to help me find and buy an Asus laptop, so we headed north on Nathan Road in a taxi to The Golden Computer Center, a giant collection of electronics shops. The lower floor was dedicated to video games, while the upper contained computers and TV's.

The Center was not the place to go if you are claustrophobic, as it had shop after shop, some seeming to appear out of thin air in just a few minutes time. There were very few Westerners. Adam loaded up on a variety of products he could have resold in the UK for (a hopeful) profit. I was glad to be in such an environment with a video game aficionado, as I otherwise might not have appreciated the games, technology, products, and prices we were seeing.

Several computer shops were sold out of the Asus, though just as many had it in stock with the specifications I sought (same as previously described). The price was the same amongst all the shops, though one offered to throw in a 2gb SD memory card to offset a $10 price differential with a store selling the same computer next to the Mirador Mansion. In the end, I paid $385 USD for my new laptop. It is unnecessary, though quite fun. I will definitely save money at internet cafes over time, and you might see me start to write more since I'll have time to draft posts.

Contemplating My Nepal Trek

Buying a new toy was only one of the thoughts on my mind during my time in Hong Kong. Reaching mainland Asia meant I needed to start thinking about what I would do for a trek in Nepal.

Mount Everest (photo: lutz6078 from Pixabay). — Mount Everest (photo: lutz6078 from Pixabay)

April, the second-best time to go in terms of weather, was quickly approaching. Initially, I had my mindset on a three-week trek of the Annapurna Circuit.

I remembered the Australian girl I met on my Singapore flight and checked out the Nepal treks offered by international tour companies.

The Annapurna Circuit wouldn't be an option, though the Everest Base Camp Trek (EBC) would fit my timing and still had slots available. Check out Kandoo Adventures to get a sense of what's involved.

I started to consider the shorter two-week EBC trek. However, excitement at the idea was far outweighed by increasing anxieties around altitude sickness, the pressure to keep up with the group, and concern about whether my feet, legs, and knees could handle the long hours of hiking day after day.

In the end, I realized I wouldn't have any fun in the month leading up to the trek if I committed and paid for an experience I'd constantly worry about.

At some point, I updated my TravBuddy profile to indicate my intent to trek in Nepal. A day or two later, Gela from the Netherlands contacted me, and we began to discuss a two-week trek through the Annapurna Sanctuary using a locally hired guide and porter.

The Sanctuary treks are less strenuous and at lower altitudes (12-13,000 feet vs. 18,000 feet) than the other two. More importantly, we'd be able to take our time and exert more control over the itinerary than if we were part of a package tour through a Western company with a clearly stated goal (like reaching EBC).

As we exchanged emails, I felt my anxiety decline, and a funny thing happened. I began to feel excited again about the prospect of trekking in the Himalayas! While the DIY approach will have its challenges, it feels right.

Trains, Visas, And Laptops

I pried myself out of bed early to drop off my Visa application at the Indian consulate on Hong Kong Island. The errand afforded me my first trip on the Mass Transit Rail (MTR). I bought an Octopus card which is a renewable debit card for Hong Kong's public transit system, as well as a way to buy stuff at random places like McDonald's and 7-11.

The MTR is awesome, I could hardly think of what more I'd want from a train system. It was fast, comfortable, impeccably clean, and had tons of clearly labeled maps. My favorites were the ones inside the cars, above each door, which lit up the next stop, along with a green arrow showing the heading, and a light to indicate which side of the train to exit from.

After some initial elevator confusion, I managed to drop my Visa application off, paying the $35 fee to have my records checked out back in the USA. I was instructed to come back at the end of the week (Friday AM) to pay the Visa cost, and then between 5-5:30pm Friday to collect my passport (they worked off a copy until Friday AM).

I triumphantly returned to Mirador after my successful navigation of the city, and bumped into Adam using a tiny laptop, the Asus Eee PC. I immediately barraged him with a list of questions about it as a desire to buy one myself built up. It has a 7"? screen, weighs less than 1.1lbs (1kg), has 4gb of memory, wi-fi, a web cam, and runs on Linux. While he got his in England, he estimated they'd cost around $300 in Hong Kong. It is built for web browsing, email, and basic applications. I had considered the idea of getting a laptop in Singapore after meeting Gary back on Bali several weeks earlier. I was feeling self-conscious about the amount of money I was spending in internet cafes. The Asus laptop aptly addressed my concerns about size, weight, and cost.

DuFu's Cottage

As my mornings in Chengdu were often spent asleep (and I do mean all morning), I'd always try to rustle off the couch for some sightseeing in the afternoons. DuFu was a famous Chinese poet and he lived in Chengdu for awhile, so I took an afternoon to tour around his cottage grounds.

Just about all my travel around Chengdu is via the yellow and green VW taxis. They're cheap, and the city is still in the midst of building it's first metro, so it's the best way to get around. The Cottage was a wonderful respite from the noise and business of the city streets. As I arrived late in the afternoon, I felt a bit rushed, however I saw much of what was to be seen.

My favorite section was the bonsai garden. It was stunning! I don't believe I've ever see such old ones, in so many numbers. Plus, they seem a tad cooler in the midst of an ancient Chinese poet's previous home, smack dab in Sichuan, China. :)

As dusk began to arrive, I stopped for tea on my way out of the complex. I was quickly becoming a fan of the tea culture in the region and wanted to experience it one way or another every day. A Chinese woman who spoke rudimentary English joined me for a little while. It's common for cups of tea to be served with giant thermos' of hot water so you can continuously refill your cup. The Chinese love to sit around drinking tea, playing card games, maj jong, and chatting. And I loved being around it!

Getting My Bearings

I awoke the next morning to the comings and goings of those in the hostel room. The bathroom was very tiny, a square with a toilet, small sink, and hand-held shower head. You wash yourself standing right next to the toilet. The setup didn't bother me to my surprise, maybe because I had gotten use to similar bathrooms in Indonesia and at Ian's apartment in Singapore. At least the hot water was truly hot!

After getting cleaned up, I moved to my proper 4-bed room where I set up camp in one of the top bunks. Two Canadian guys were in the lower bunks, and Adam from England was on the other upper one. There was a working TV in the room, though I didn't bother with it during my stay.

To get my bearings in a new city, I tend to walk in concentric circles extending out from my accommodation. My first concentric circle brought me to McDonald's for a pancake breakfast. Feeling completely out of my element, I had a newfound sense of comfort in seeing American fast food joints abroad.

One of my missions in Hong Kong would be to obtain my Visa for India, so I spent some time online getting the consulate's address, and filling out the paperwork. Since it'd take 3-4 days, I made it a priority to drop everything off Monday morning.

Back at the hostel, I ran into an Austrian man of Chinese descent who seemed to want some company. He lead tours for Chinese government officials abroad, though was traveling on his own in Hong Kong (thus the cheap accommodation). We walked down to the Avenue of Stars at the southern tip of Kowloon. It's akin to Hollywood's Walk of Fame (or whatever it is called). From the walkway, you can see across Victoria Harbor to the impressive and immense skyline of Hong Kong Island. The weather was cloudy and chilly, and a haze of pollution enveloped the buildings.

We walked a bit outside of the touristy area of Nathan Road (think Broadway in New York City), stopping for lunch at a Chinese barbecue joint where I ordered duck with rice. We also got some noodle soup with prawn balls from a nearby restaurant. Feeling tired, I opted out of continuing the walk and headed back to my room for some rest and recovery.

Touchdown In Hong Kong

In the early evening, I arrived parched and famished in Hong Kong. After passing immigrations and customs, and collecting my bag, I bit the bullet and grabbed dinner at Burger King in the terminal. If I haven't mentioned it previously, flying with the discount Australian airline Jetstar (and it's Asian contingent) has meant I need to check my main backpack as it doesn't meet the 15lb (7kg) requirement for carry-on luggage. So far, it hasn't been a problem, and I've appreciated the ability to buy larger size liquids (suntan/bug spray, soap, etc.).

After devouring my greasy American fast food, I quickly found my way to the A21 bus which would bring me down Nathan Street to Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. The day before, I had reserved a spot in a 4-bed dorm room in the Friendship Hostel in Mirador Mansion via HostelWorld.com. There were tons of reviews about the hostels in the Mirador and Chungking mansions, so I tried to pick the cheapest one with the highest rating. The general consensus was Mirador was better than Chungking.

As the bus headed toward downtown, I was soon struck by all the large apartment buildings lit up in the distance. On our left we passed a long bridge with a bright red horizontal neon stripe running along it. On our right we passed a giant port with cranes and stacks of container boxes. As we barreled down Nathan Street, I started to feel an inevitable sense of culture shock.

Neon signs extended from buildings horizontally so they were directly above the roads, which makes perfect advertising sense though feels a bit in your face. Chinese characters were everywhere, which reminded me of the fact that language barriers were about to become a bigger challenge. Every other shop seemed to be selling jewelery and the sidewalks were crowded with people being that it was a Saturday night.

I hopped off the bus and walked the instructed 5-10 minutes south to the Mirador Mansion. The term mansion is a bit of a misnomer. Giant slum building would be a more fitting term for the view from the exterior. By 10:30pm, I was within my given arrival window, yet they stuck me in a 12-bed dorm with a ½"? thick mattress across from two toilets/showers in a room that amounted to a drafty hallway. Oh, and my feet were practically in the lap of the people using the internet next to my bed. I was so tired, I went with it and tried to get some sleep knowing my bed wasn't what I reserved.

Final Thoughts: Singapore

My memories of Singapore will be forever tied to the variety of delicious foods available, and Ian's hospitality. Many people will claim you can see the city in a day, however I found 4 days to be far too short to truly get a feel for the life and culture of this wonderful city/country.

Highlights -

couchsurfing with Ian
admiring the modern architecture
holding my first snake
Singapore Sling at The Long Bar
eating Indian food with the restaurant owner, Ian and Waffa
assaulting a crab dinner
tasting Durian for the first time
side trip to Malaysia
eating....everything
exploring the airport

Discoveries -

it is possible to eat too much of a good thing

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

Eating -

A different traditional dish or cuisine for every meal and no western food for 4 days, crab, noodles, chicken, rice, Tiger beer, sugar cane juice, coconut water

Average Daily Budget -

$51

Sayonara Singapore

Ian saw me off to the train on his way to work. He was entirely too generous with his time and money. While hostels aren't particularly expensive in Singapore, I saved quite a bit of money by staying with him when you factor in the internet, laundry, food, and transportation costs. It still amazes me how willing couchsurfers are to welcome strange travelers into their homes and lives, despite the fact that I've hosted two people in the same manner.

I'd heard great things about the Singapore Airport, so I was happy to arrive there a few hours before my fight. Check in was easy, and it was a comfortable place to knock off a few hours. The free internet access was OK, though not a mind-blowing experience. The cactus garden was downright odd.

Before I knew it, I was off to Hong Kong aboard Jetstar's Asian contingent. You can't bring water on board, and they didn't even offer a complimentary cup once aboard for the 3.5 hour fight. I've enjoyed Jetstar, however that approach for a medium-length international flight rubbed me the wrong way.

Hello Malaysia, Goodbye Malaysia

The next day, I joined Ian on a short trip across the border to Singapore for a travel fair sponsored by Malaysia Air.

Despite high hopes for cheap fairs, the event was a dud, and we got lunch and a few shirts at a nearby mall.

The prices were super cheap on some clothing, so I'm not sure how much of it was fake. If only I had a need for more clothing!

We returned to Singapore via the same series of buses which brought us to Malaysia, and prepared for the evening's events.

Ian wanted to make an appearance at a friend's charity masquerade ball, so we met up with Waffa and her friend, and took the MRT and buses all the way across Singapore to a western section of coastline.

Before the party, we stopped at the village's food stalls. There were tons of them.

I had a local chicken dish and a bunch of chicken satay along with tasty sugar cane juice (made fresh).

The atmosphere was amazing, everyone eating, drinking, talking.

Smells of various ethnic cuisines wafted through the air under the bright fluorescent lights.

Typical cuisines I saw again and again included Indian, Chinese, Muslim, and Western, amongst many others.

The masquerade ball was held in one building of many which were part of a former hospital.

There weren't a lot of people, however there was a nice view in the back, plenty of food, and a bar where I treated myself to a beer.

We called it a night after an hour, taking a cab back to Ian's apartment.

_________________

Bonus Video - Typical Singapore Food Stalls

School Daze, Crab A La Bourdain, And Durian

On my second full day in Singapore, I ran an errand with Ian to his alma mater, the National University of Singapore.

It was fun to walk through the halls and eat in the cafeteria with all the students. It brought back memories from my college years.

Afterward, I opted for us to go back to his apartment so I could rest.

I was tired from the previous day and wanted to continue using the convenient and fast internet access.

The plan for dinner was to track down Sin Huat Eating House, a local haunt frequented by famous chefs, including none other than Anthony Bourdain.

If anyone can recall whether this was a restaurant featured on "No Reservations," let me know.

I know he went there as it was publicized in a travel brochure, and clearly, the prices reflected it more than the interior decorating.

There were big tanks with live crabs, scallops, and fish. I saw someone's crab and noodle order and figured it was the way to go.

We didn't get menus; instead, the waiter suggested items. When I asked about the prices, I was taken aback to hear one crab with noodles would run me about $37.

I went with it, though, and assaulted that sucker like there was no tomorrow.

Ian and Waffa just looked on, graciously taking photos as I fumbled with the extraction of tasty crab meat.

I tasted a bit of the roe, or guts, to be adventurous (orange stuff you see in the shell). Twas not my cup of tea, so I stuck to the claws.

Eventually, I ran out of steam and Tiger beer, so we paid the bill and headed for my dessert, the fabled and utterly stinky Durian fruit.

The walk to the fruit stands with Durian was eye-opening. We were on the street bordering the red-light district.

It was about 9 or 10 pm on a weekday, and the restaurants were packed with people dining al fresco (the modus operandi in Singapore). Lots of lights and people.

Eventually, we found a stand with heaps of Durian fruit. Ian bought us each one.

The store clerk helped crack it open, and then Ian did the rest to expose the pudding-like fruit within the hard exterior shell.

We began to scoop it out with our fingers, mindful of the pits. Yes, I could smell an odor in the area. However, I didn't find it overly pungent.

I started to acquire a taste for the fruit. It was certainly unlike any other I'd tasted.

Upon completion, we chucked the shells in nearby wastebaskets as so many had done before us and headed home.

Merlion, Snakes, And Singapore Slings

After a comfortable sleep, I spent some time on my federal/state taxes.

It was a luxury to have access to Ian's computer with fast broadband connection after so many slow sessions in Indonesia. Ian has a Ph.D. and seems like a regular Renaissance man.

He works at night based on American time, teaches classes at the nearby National University of Singapore, runs ItchyTraveler.com, and is managing a local club soccer team.

Despite the fact that I arrived a night earlier than he expected, he welcomed me in all the same.

We began our sightseeing with breakfast in the collection of food stalls outside his apartment block on Clementi Avenue.

My local dish consisted of rice and tofu in a gravy with a hard-boiled egg and coconut shavings.

I immediately realized my mission in Singapore would be to eat, eat, eat.

We took the clean and fast Mass Rapid Train to the business district, and after ambling past some of the numerous skyscrapers, arrived at the Merlion, Singapore's national icon.

Ian told me the story behind it, though I've since forgotten its origin.

Across the water, a gigantic construction project was underway to build Singapore's first casinos.

As I would come to find out, Singapore loves to build stuff. I've never seen so many cranes in such a small area.

As we approached the spot where Mr. Raffle, Singapore's founder, first laid foot, I caught a glimpse of an albino boa constrictor.

Before I knew it, the owner had it around my neck and a silly hat on my head for a few photos.

Having just conquered a long-held fear of snakes, I gladly tipped him a few bucks.

We ate at a hospital cafeteria where I had a tasty, filling, cheap Lemon Chicken Rice dish.

Then it was off to The Raffles Hotel for a Singapore Sling at The Long Bar, the place the drink was invented.

Anthony Bourdain fans take note, he made the same pilgrimage for the tasty libation.

I'm guessing he didn't have to cover the $18 cocktail as I did though!

After my drink, we made our way to Little India and Ian's favorite restaurant Lagnaa.

While he referred to her as his friend, we were actually meeting up with his girlfriend Waffa (not sure on spelling) and her friend who was doing a restaurant review for his travel site.

The owner/head chef of the restaurant was being interviewed when we arrived.

We joined them, and eventually enjoyed a fantastic and spicy array of Indian dishes.

The spice scale went from 1-6, with 6 as the hottest.

When I initially asked for 4 on my chicken curry dish, the waitress laughed and talked me down to 2.

It turned out 2 was perfect for me, very spicy, though enjoyable. I couldn't imagine eating 4, let alone 6.

After stuffing myself further, Waffa guided me back to Ian's place where we watched a bit of American Idol before going back to the local food stalls for a little more food.

I ordered my first of two Tiger beers, which come in giant bottles.

And then it was off to sleep, with dreams of another day filled with terrific ethnic food.

Couchsurfing Singapore

During the first part of the flight to Singapore, there was frequent turbulence and flashes of lightning through the clouds. Initially, I was engrossed in a conversation with the Australian women next to me who was on her way to do the Everest Base Camp trek in Nepal by way of India. As her Valium kicked in, and my anxiety grew, I put on my MP3 player and went to my happy place, eventually drifting in and out of sleep until our arrival.

Visas, immigration, customs, and baggage collection all went smoothly around 1 am. I used my credit card to phone Ian, the Singaporean who offered to host me through Couchsurfing. I'd later learn that call cost me $21. I have no idea why! Ian gave me his address, and I said goodbye to Laura and Jessica one last time. They were off to Thailand via train through Malaysia.

As I took the taxi across the city in the early morning, I felt some reverse culture shock after being on tropical islands for the past 3 weeks. Wide paved roads....large apartment buildings....skyscrapers....no haggle taxis. With the help of the taxi driver and his cell phone, I found Ian, and we headed up to his apartment. After a quick tour, I crashed on his fold out couch.

Odds And Ends After 3 Months Of Travel

Here I am, 3 months into my long-awaited trip around the world. Hard to believe I've made it so far. More than anything, I feel a sense of great accomplishment for making this experience a reality. Dreaming big, working hard, sacrificing multiple trips to Las Vegas, and punching through my fears and anxieties about leaving the security of home and safety of a good job.

There are a few random things I wanted to share before opening the can of worms that is Singapore and Hong Kong.

I made a big deal about packing light, however once I ran out of Campsuds in New Zealand, I started to buy regular liquid soap like just about every other backpacker. And after trying to hack off 2 weeks worth of facial hair with a 99 cent disposable razor, I invested in a Gillette Mach 3 Turbo.

If you couldn't tell, I'm horrible at sticking to a budget, and fantastic at not caring too much about it! I tried to save enough money for 16 months of travel, however in reality I'll be happy with 12 months. I miss my friends and family, though not the comforts of home.

Sharing my travels with new friends enriches the experience more than I previously realized.

The couchsurfing experiences have been priceless.

Final Thoughts: Indonesia

I am leaving Indonesia a changed person. I can feel it, though you may not be able to see it on here. I'm less naive, more assertive, a slightly better negotiator (with still a long way to go), and more in touch with my emotions, which often felt amplified.

It feels bittersweet to be leaving Bali. The hectic pace of life seems to have a rhythm all it's own, and one you can learn to appreciate if you give yourself the time here.

Highlights -

low cost of living (finally!)
frequent massage and spa treatments
shopping (Volcom, Billabong, Ubud art market)
Bali Zoo
lunch overlooking two volcanoes
drinking with Gary and Chris under a tarp in the pouring rain at Kuta Food Court
the first night on Gili Trawangan
hanging out with Linus, Jessica, Laura, Tim and Ashlyn
walking around Gili Trawangan with Jessica and Laura on our last day
walking on the beach from Kuta to Seminyak (and back) with Laura during a sunset
listening to the live band at Joe's Place in Kuta
eating Bali's best suckling pig (a la Anthony Bourdain)
feeding the monkeys in Ubud

Discoveries -

I drink more frequently when the beer is cheap (duh!)
board shorts (w/o underwear) are far more comfortable than shorts in tropical heat
lots of trash washes up on the beaches (of Kuta and Gili T) during the rainy season
it's OK to make mistakes while traveling, and they often turn into good stories you can laugh about, so keep things in perspective
when you click with people, make the most of their company, because all good things come to an end
I can dance like no one is watching (on stage at Bounty)

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

Eating -

Bintang beer, Nasi Goreng Ayam (fried rice w/chicken and egg), toast, scrambled eggs, pineapple, banana, Bintang beer, tons of tea, Pringles, seafood (prawns, crab, tuna), and Bintang beer.

Average Daily Budget -

$55

Adios Amigos

It wasn't until after I cleared security at the airport on February 18th that I realized my flight was the following night. I gave myself a good swift kick in the behind for writing the departure date down wrong in my notebook, and then caught a taxi back to Ronta Bungalows in Kuta to find my crew and have a well-deserved beer (and laugh).

As it turned out, in the meantime, Laura and Jessica had booked the same flight to Singapore as I would be on the next evening. We ate and amused ourselves until we'd all leave Bali. Linus was heading back to Komodo for a second attempt to see the dragons in their natural habitat.

I said goodbye to Linus for the 4th and final time, as did the girls, and we shared a taxi to the airport. We wandered a bit, drank some coffee, and boarded our 10:15pm flight to Singapore.

Partying In Kuta

After a few nights back in Kuta, we were due for a night on the town, especially since I thought Feb 17th would be my last night before heading to Singapore.

After a drink or two in Linus' air-conditioned room, we hit the street (er alley) around midnight for the Expresso Bar. A quick drink and a poor rendition of "Stairway to Heaven" later, we were on to Paddy's across the street. For us Americans, Cancun is probably the best way I can describe the scene within this bar/club, though I've never been to Cancun myself. Lots of young Australian guys getting smashed and lots of women dancing about (some embarrassingly bad I might add).

Jessica

After an hour or so, we went next door to Bounty - the biggest dance club in town. I couldn't help but think about how it was a club just like it (a block away) which was blown to bits in 2002.

Alas you can't live your life in fear, so why not grab another drink and dance the night away on stage.

Off To Ubud for Suckling Pig and Monkeys

I turned Sara's monkey dare into a ½ day trip to Ubud in central Bali. First, I had lunch at Bu Oka, a renowned food stall for Babi Guling (suckling pig).

Bu Oka

My culinary hero, Anthony Bourdain, chomped on the special for his Travel Channel show "No Reservations" just as I did.

I can't say it was love at first bite, however I really liked the way different bits of the pig are presented together. In the photo, you can see there's quite a bit of meat, some green veggies, and rice. The shiny flat bit is crispy skin, though you can feel/taste a bit of fat on the underside. Underneath, and to the left, you can just make out a bit of yellow. I'm not sure what it was - fried pig's ear or something. It was crunchy, and didn't do much for me. There was also a bit of black sausage which was really tender and spicy.

After lunch, I fed the monkeys, and watched them chase each other around the sanctuary, go swimming, and generally lounge about. It was very entertaining to see how our ancestors behave up close and personal.

Lastly, I bought some souvenirs at the Ubud Art Market. Supposedly you can get everything cheaper there than in Kuta, however I'd later realize my opening offers were too high, and I'd ended up paying a few dollars more than if I had bought the same items at the western-style mall in Kuta Square. Live and learn!

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Bonus Video: Monkey Goes For A Swim

Dare #5 - Completed - Monkey Business

#6 - From Sara:

I have a good first dare for ya. After seeing your picture with the fluffy koala bear, and reading about the monkey forests full of gray monkeys in Bali, I've decided that your dare is the following:

I dare you to load your day pack with bananas and head into one of the monkey forests. (Sengeh, Jalan, Ubud?) Once there get the help of someone nice to hold your camera and take pictures. Then, quickly peel and hold two handfuls of bananas and extend your arms like a tree.

I'll contribute a donation of 20$ for each monkey on your body in one single photograph. From what I read those monkeys can be fast so you have to be too! And very brave! I would think the more bananas you pack up, the better chance you have of attracting mucho monkeys, and therefor getting the very best and busy single shot I also suggest leaving a trail of nuts to your final photo spot as a pre-banana warm up, but that part is entirely up to you.

(Bananas and nuts should be sold at the entrance to the park.)

Good luck.

Reward: $20 per monkey on my body

__________________________________

Upon arrival at the monkey sanctuary in Ubud, I bought a bundle of mini-bananas to feed the monkeys. My driver/guide took the photos as I tried to lure my goal of 5 monkeys upon me for this dare. The best way to get them on you is to hold the bananas above your shoulders, however I found no more than one monkey would jump up at a time.

While I only managed one monkey, I'm grateful to Sara for suggesting I check out the sanctuary. It was a fun part of a ½ day trip to the area.

Back To Kuta And Ulu Watu

I splurged on my trip back to Bali, paying quite a bit to take a 2.5 hour speed boat directly from Gili Trawangan. The first half of the trip was rather rough and it didn't take me long to get the feel for what happens after the boat goes up the crest of a large wave (it slaps down rather hard on the back side). While I didn't get seasick, I did gain a new appreciation for taking a smelly, cheap, slow-ass ferry. On the bright side (for me), I would later hear the day's ferry was delayed for 3 hours outside the Bali port, thus turning it into an 8 hour ride, on top of the overland driving required on both islands.

On Valentine's Day, our little crew was reunited as Linus had been on the same delayed ferry ride. We returned to doing what we do best - eating and talking. I joined Laura (who ran her first London marathon in '07) for a walk on the beach north to Seminyak. I'd estimate it was a about an 8km walk round trip. The beaches became less polluted and crowded the farther north you went. The posher resorts, clubs, and shops are also up in that area. Along the way, we saw a nice peach-colored sun go down.

The next day, Linus was off to East Timor to renew his Indonesian Visa for another shot at Komodo. Jessica, Laura, and I went on a short tour south to Ulu Watu, a cliff-side temple by the ocean. Along the way, we stopped at Dream Beach, which looked like a bomb had hit it. To be fair, the beach itself would probably have been nice for a walk at low tide.

By the time we got to Ulu Watu, the winds were fierce. I bought some bananas to feed the monkeys as a dry run for my friend Sara's dare. A ceremony was taking place so it was quite crowded. And then it began to pour rain, so we decided to skip the dance show and head straight to dinner at a popular area known for seafood.

The restaurant's roof began to leak water, and we found ourselves cold and wet. Eventually, we moved to a dry area away from the view of the pounding surf, and nibbled away at a barbecued snapper before returning to Kuta.

Come Waste Your Time With Me

I woke up the morning of my last full day on Gili Trawangan with a new sensation - energy!

Apparently, a night without alcohol can do that for a person. I walked through "town" and got an Indian chai tea and mini croissants from Scallywags - an organic restaurant I'd heard good things about.

While I was contemplating life over said tea, and the view, I decided to invite Jessica and Laura to my bungalow for a bottle of wine given they were leaving the island the next day as well.

They were up and about when I went over, so we chatted for a bit over tea and breakfast, before agreeing to walk around the island.

The walk was nice and relaxing in comparison to the breakneck bike rides.

I provided some comedic entertainment when I stepped in the island's biggest pile of horse shit while going over the differences in the sands of the various Australian beaches I had visited.

Embarrassed, I scuttled over a dune to wash my ankle in the sea.

Meanwhile, the girls were examining little hermit crabs. As I walked over, I painfully stubbed my toe against a piece of driftwood.

As we were finishing up our walk, we stopped for (more) tea at a beautiful spot on the north of the island.

I don't know how long we were there, long enough for the winds to apply a layer of sea salt to our skin. If I could slow down time, this would've been the spot to do it.

After our walk, we ended up back at Scallywags for lunch.

The day was slowly creeping by and we were simply changing environments while carrying on with fun conversations enjoying one and other's company.

We picked out a bottle of well known "Jacob Greek" Shiraz Sauvignon from a nearby wine shop, and headed to the island's fastest internet cafe (which wasn't that fast).

Once there, it started to pour rain so we tended to our Facebook accounts and photos. I left to obtain glasses from Sama Sama, where the bottle of wine was also uncorked.

The bartender invited us back later in the night for a "goodbye" song from the band.

Cheers

Soon after, the girls arrived and we enjoyed a few glasses of my favorite Australian red wine.

After finishing off the bottle, we headed to (I know you know by now) The Beach House for our last dinner on the island.

There we ran into Ashlyn who stopped to chat. She and her husband Tim were leaving the next day as well. They're possibly the friendliest couple I've ever met.

Every time I bumped into them it always made me feel happy.

It felt right to leave at the same time. I didn't want to stick around the island to the point where I began to take it for granted.

Besides, my experience was so great because of the people I shared it with, not the island itself.

After dinner, we headed to Sama Sama where the band played "Leaving On A Jet Plane" and invited us to sing a song.

I'm a somewhat accomplished karaoke singer, however, singing to a live band would be a first.

I looked around, noting barely anyone was at the bar, or even on the island, and said we need to do this.

After much debate, flipping through books of lyrics written in somewhat broken English, we settled on the classic "I Will Survive."

I didn't know the lyrics or the timing, and soon let Jessica and Laura carry the song.

We said goodbye, heading in opposite directions with plans to meet up back in Kuta, along with Linus whose trip to Komodo was a bust.

The Day After

I could skip over the next day, pretending I didn't feel a bit lonely after Linus left the island (for Komodo), except it wouldn't be true to my experience. I did feel like something was missing after he left.

I took the opportunity to upgrade to a stand-alone bungalow at about $15/night. It had a truly outdoor bathroom - you could get a sunburn on the toilet in the morning if you weren't quick about it. I do enjoy taking a shower in the open air though, maybe because the water doesn't feel quite so cold.

The day seemed to pass by. I played a bit of ping pong at the invitation of Joe, the owner/manager of Beachwind Bungalows. The entire staff at the place were so friendly, they made my stay on the island all the better.

In the evening, I rented a movie at one of the huts with TV/DVD players by the water. I watched Alfie, and since it began to pour rain, Superbad. The party spot on this night was at The Blue Marlin, which was right behind me. I could hear the pounding house and trance music while I watched my movies. After the rain let up, I checked out the scene and it was dead.

It's nights like these which remind me to appreciate all the more the ones I previously wrote about. I've been writing a lot about what I've seen and done as it's frankly easier than writing about how I feel. Traveling alone continuously reminds me to recognize the good moments - when you connect with a person, see an amazing new environment, or overcome a fear. The sooner you sense the good moment, the sooner you can fully immerse yourself in the experience or feeling. And like the line from The Beach, those moments can last forever.

Beach, Bikes, Sunset, Seafood, Drinks

I chose to spend 3 weeks in Bali and Lombok to allow myself a chance to unwind after the fast-paced itineraries of New Zealand and Australia. While I was accomplishing my goal in Kuta, it included the constant hassle from street vendors and women offering massages, and noise of motorbikes and honking taxis. Basically, it was a big city, not a serene scene with stunning views and pretty beaches. Gili Trawangan turned out to be a needed counterbalance, made all the better by the relationships I formed with Linus, Jessica, Laura, Tim, and Ashlyn.

As most nights on Gili T were to involve drinking alcohol, the mornings consisted of sleeping in, ordering breakfast (included in room price), and consuming breakfast on the porch outside the bungalow. It felt like a lot of work, trust me!

Perfect

After a few cloudy days, the sun broke out and Linus and I eventually got ourselves in gear and went for a walk. We bumped into Jessica, who had been sunbathing on the beach with Laura, and joined them for a bit. The heat was sweltering in mid-afternoon, though the sun sets on the opposite side of the island meaning the mornings are more intense.

Laura started to flip through my digital photos, recognizing the irony of being immersed in views of Tahiti and Moorea from the beautiful beach of Gili Trawangan. We were all damn lucky to be where we were, and we knew it. After a bit of sun, we had lunch and rented bikes for another trip around the island, this time in the opposite direction.

Around 6:15pm, we arrived at what could be the best bar in the world. It faces west, and on a clear day, you can supposedly see the sun set over Bali. We were lucky to see the sun at all. After our drinks at the bar, we washed up and met up for dinner at...you guessed it...The Beach House. This time, we had dinner at a table right next to the water, which was lit up, creating a romantic backdrop.

After dinner, we stayed up late in one of those raised huts - drinking, talking, laughing. It was one of those days you wish would never end.

Island Life

And me, I still believe in paradise. But now at least I know it's not some place you can look for, 'cause it's not where you go. It's how you feel for a moment in your life when you're a part of something, and if you find that moment... it lasts forever... --- Richard, The Beach

After a late first night on the island, I started to feel sick the next day (a la Sydney), so I stayed in while everyone else partied at Rudy's, one of the bars on the island.

The next morning, I was happy to find I didn't feel as bad as I was expecting.

Linus and I ran into Jessica and Laura in the afternoon, and they invited us on a bike ride around the island. We picked up our mountain bikes at Beachwind and headed north.

The road quickly gave way to sand, and we all found the pedaling to be difficult at times. It took about 40 minutes to make the journey.

Juku

After working up a sweat with the bike ride, we had some tea at Juku.

The restaurants and bars on the island all have thatch-roofed, raised platforms with cushions you sit on.

Some are more comfortable than others, though I loved the whole concept and feel to them all.

We reunited at 8 pm for dinner where we first met, The Beach House. We'd eat there many times, and the food was always outstanding.

They set up fresh seafood for you to choose from, and then they'd barbecue it right by the road, across from the seating area. I ordered the barbecued tuna while the girls went with salmon.

Night 1 on Gili T - Making Friends

After a short walk along main street on Gili T, Linus and I washed up and headed out for dinner. We noticed the most crowded restaurant to be The Beach House, so we headed for a table - well Linus did. I stopped short, next to two Danish girls. I looked at Linus, then at the girls, figured what the hell, and asked if we could join them.

After getting to know Ann and Ulee a bit over dinner, Linus invited two English girls at a nearby table to join us as well. Jessica and Laura were soon in the mix. As laughter and good conversation ensued, one of the guys I noticed from the ferry ride asked if he could join us. Tim and Ashlyn were soon at our table, and Tim returned the favor by inviting an American woman over, just as she was leaving her table.

Forming new friendships while traveling alone can really be this easy, when good times seem to materialize out of thin air. We'd spend the night getting to know one and other. Linus had a life-or-death experience surviving the 2005 Tsunami in Thailand (a story that had the entire table in awe). The Danish girls were leaving the next day. Jessica and Laura had arrived a few hours earlier than Linus and I . Tim was a professional soccer player with Wellington, NZ's team (part of the Australia A-League) and had lived in Richmond, VA during his college years. His wife Ashlyn had just finished a 5-year run as a dancer with Riverdance, and had a great opinion of Wolf Trap, the amphitheater where I saw the show in 1999 (Fairfax, VA). And the American woman was a trauma surgeon from NC.

And every now and then you just click with certain people, and amongst the lot, Linus and I would click with Jessica and Laura. Good times would be sure to follow.

Gili Trawangan - Welcome To My Paradise

Gili Trawangan is a small island off the coast of Lombok, an island the size of Bali just to it's east. There are many small islands (gili's as they're called) around Lombok, however Gili Trawangan is the most popular one. It is 8 km in circumference, and there are no motorbikes or cars, just carts drawn by small horses, bicycles, and foot power. There are no police on the island, and drugs are widely available (especially, magic mushrooms and marijuana). It reminded me of Caye Caulker, Belize. The small community seems to police itself, as a local told me the punishment for theft is a potential beat-down, followed by banishment from the island.

Most of the development is on the east side of the island, including all the dive shops which include attached restaurants and pools for those learning to SCUBA dive. I was keen to stay at Beachwind Bungalows as it was right across the "street" from the water. Linus joined me and we continued to share a double room.

It's not quick or easy to go from Kuta on Bali to the Gili Islands off Lombok. The regular (cheap) way takes a full day of travel leaving at 6am from Kuta, minus any unforeseen delays. As a result, it is much less visited then Kuta, and it felt as though we had the island to ourselves (this was especially the case as it was the rainy season). There were just enough people to keep my week-long stay fun and interesting.

World's Most Expensive Mosquito Coils

Linus and I were picked up by our shuttle in Sengiggi, and whisked north along the coast to a staging area 200 meters away from the beach where we'd be boarding a small wooden boat to ferry us over to Gili Trawangan.

As we sat around, the "boatman" who would take us the rest of the way was chatting. Among other things, he mentioned mosquito coils. I knew what they were, though never bought them myself, so I had no sense of their regular cost. The boatman said they were not available on the island. I'm all about avoiding malaria and dengue fever, which meant I was about to make yet another foolish mistake.

The Lonely Planet speaks poorly of the port area, and it's a well deserved reputation. The people are very aggressive about picking up your bags and carrying them to the boat without your approval, in search of a tip. In fact, you had to cross a small stream to get to the boat and two guys literally carried Linus over it so he wouldn't get wet. It's not like he wanted them to be doing it either!

Back to the mosquito coils, the quoted price for a box of 10, with lighter, was 95,000 rupiah (about $10). Being that we were in transit, and I was concerned about the hijacking of my stuff as it was, I paid the piper. Supposedly my quoted price was lower than what he asked of the Spanish. The boatman also reassured me that it was the "regular" price.

A 40-minute ride in a long wooden boat with 20-25 people brought us to our island destination, where mosquito coils were available in every shop for the local price of about 30 cents. The screens were so good on the two rooms I had during the stay, I only used one full mosquito coil.

The lesson I learned on this one was to think of products and services in terms of the price locals would have to pay.

Heading East to Lombok

It felt fortuitous to be leaving Kuta, Bali the morning after the theft incident. Leaving for a new destination always feels empowering, and I was heading to Lombok to experience the potential tropical island paradise I had pictured when coming to Bali.

The first person on the shuttle after me was a guy named Linus. You'll hear more about him soon. At this point, he just happened to be the first person I could share my experience with from the prior night. I let it out, which was cathartic.

Soon after, an American couple joined the shuttle, and I'd end up speaking with the guy much of the ride. They were from North Carolina, and would work in bars to save up for 3-month trips in the off-season (winter). I've met so few Americans, I find myself jumping at the chance to talk to them when they present themselves.

After the shuttle to the ferry port in East Bali, we boarded the ferry to Lombok. It was a slow beast of a ferry, taking 5 hours to make the crossing. The lower levels were hot, humid, soon filled with smoke, and all around gross. Most of the backpackers ended up on the top deck with the fresh air.

Linus

Along the way, I got to know Linus a little better. He was a dive instructor originally from Sweden, who worked for 1.5 years on a popular island in Thailand. He was currently touring Indonesia, before a short stop back in Thailand on his way back to a job in Norway. He was carrying all of his own dive gear with him - about 50lbs worth I believe.

Upon arrival in Lombok, night had fallen. We hopped on another shuttle that was awaiting us, and careened north toward our stop for the night - Sengiggi (a popular resort town on the west coast of Lombok). The area felt very dark, except for the bright white headlights of oncoming traffic. Once we were dropped in Sengiggi, Linus and I decided to share a sparse room at the Hotel Elen across the street from our pick-up point in the morning. We went out for dinner, however after looking around, there didn't seem to be much happening in Sengiggi.

Scooter-Born Prostitute Rips Me Off

The Lonely Planet warns readers against prostitutes that ride around on scooters and hassle men walking around alone at night. It specifically warned of one gang (alley), so I made it a point to stay clear of it. At the same time, I had little sense of how this "danger and annoyance" might present itself. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way.

I had found what I thought to be the fastest internet cafe in Kuta, so after being frustrated with slow speeds elsewhere, I decided to spend several hours at it before I left Bali for Lombok the next morning. My accommodation was about a 7-10 minute walk through a few winding gangs. I'd done it several times during the day, and knew where I was going, and how long it'd take.

I left the internet cafe around midnight, and the gang it was on had restaurants so it was still a bit lively. I made my first turn onto the second gang and noticed the shops that had been open earlier were closed, the street was rather empty, and not well lit. I puffed my chest out, and continued to walk at a quick pace trying to look imposing.

A woman on a scooter came up from behind me, and parked it about 15 feet in front of me, in a dark shadowy area. She got off the scooter, and as I walked past her, she grabbed me below the belt, which of course startled the hell out of me. At the same time, she was soliciting me, and I was saying "no, no, no" as I kept walking. She went back to her bike, drove past me again saying "bye, bye" and then stopped another 15 feet ahead of me.

This time, she motioned to a pitch-black alley, and as I walked by, she grabbed my right arm tightly, and went below the belt again. I firmly told her to "get off me" and pushed her away. She got on her bike again, rode past me saying "bye, bye" and this time she kept going.

It wasn't until 2-3 minutes later when I was getting they key to my room out that I realized the 70,000 rupiah (about $8) in my back pocket was gone. My money belt finally showed it's worth, as it contained much more cash, credit cards, and my passport. I was thankful she didn't try to take my backpack which had my camera and mp3 player, however I was angry at the woman for what she did, and myself for being too complacent. Looking back, as you can see from the photos, I had nowhere to go except forwards or backwards, and she surely knew that from past thefts of this nature.

I considered reporting the incident to the tourist police the next day, however after hearing corruption stories about them, and thinking it'd do little good since I couldn't see the woman's face (she was wearing a helmet, besides the fact that it was pitch black), I decided to carry on to Lombok the next morning.

3 Travel Bloggers Survive Torrential Rains

I found nomad4ever.com in early 2007, when I first entered the world of travel blogging. The man behind the scenes is Chris, a German expat who retired in his early 30's to live the good life in Southeast Asia. After a stint in Thailand, he moved to Bali where he's been living for about a year with his girlfriend.

Gary from Everything-Everywhere.com responded to a post I made on BootsNAll, and since we would be in Bali at the same time, arranged to meet up. Gary is about 12 months into a 3-year trip around the world. He thoroughly covered the tiny island nations of the Pacific, and is now tackling Indonesia and Australia. Check out the Google map on his blog if you can - very cool!

I hung out with Gary for a day before all three of us met up at the Kuta Food Court across from the beach. The food was good, and the conversation fantastic. Three guys talking about the life on Bali, Indonesia, various cultures, working life...and the desire to abandon it for travel!

Before anyone got to the food court, torrential rains began and it guaranteed we'd be almost the only patrons. We didn't care though - just kept talking and drinking Bintang beers as the staff used a broom to push the rain water off of the tarp above us every 10 minutes.

Exploring Inland Bali

After getting a feel for life in Kuta, I decided to bite the bullet and venture inland for a day-long tour. Believe me, it was hard after all those spa treatments to tear myself away for some sight-seeing, however I knew it had to be done.

Our itinerary was a bit flexible, however the first stop was a cheesy display of wax drawings on tourist shirts. The Asian tour buses seemed to appreciate it though. Luckily, the next stop was more my style, though surprisingly so. We went to a silver shop, where I was about the only customer. After a short talk about silversmithing, I browsed the jewelery cases until I came upon some rings which caught my eye. The salesperson clearly told me I could negotiate down from the list price, and my natural indecisiveness seems to work wonders because he brought the price down by 50% to about $17 for a sterling silver ring. The middle section rotates, so I spent the rest of the day spinning it around incessantly.

The third stop was unexpected - The Bali Zoo. At $18, I was a bit unsure of whether it'd be worth it. As I walked through the entry, I quickly realized this was a zoo unlike any other I'd been to. Music was playing, gigantic (probably man-eating) spiders were in webs near exhibits and under some paths. On two occasions I was quickly given a bird or lizard (or both) for photo-ops. I saw my first albino Bengal tiger and Komodo dragons, along with a few African lions, and Javanese spotted and black leopards. Tons of monkeys and exotic birds, and a few snakes rounded out the highlights. The zoo was private, and all the animals looked healthy and well-taken care of.

The blazing heat and muggy humidity soon gave way to massive rains. Streets flooded with water, debris, and trash. Spouts from homes and temples along the roads spit out tons of water. My driver and just about everyone else slowed down accordingly.

As the rain stopped, we emerged near the north of Bali to a stunning scene - two massive and misty volcanoes around a lake, on the opposite end of a lush, green valley with little tropical birds flittering around. My lunch stop was an Indian restaurant perched atop a ridge line (amongst many others with the same view). I ate my money's worth at the buffet, and we were off to a nearby temple.

I had to rent a sarong to access the bathing area of the temple. My driver/guide joined me as I knew I'd have questions. He said people go to the temple daily, and even bathe in it daily, as the water is thought to be coming from the Gods. I thought that was a rather impressive act of devotion.

Though my driver offered to stop at another one or two places, by mid-afternoon, I was ready to head back south to Kuta and unwind - culture, volcanoes, and giant Indonesian spiders now checked off my "to-do" list for the 3-week stay.

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