Blog - Go Backpacking

Inspirational Interlude

The golden opportunity you are seeking is in yourself. It is not in your environment; it is not in luck or chance, or the help of others; it is in yourself alone. -- Orison Swett Marden

The quote above rang true for me when I came across it in a journal I received as part of my company's 2-day culture shaping workshop. I've often used quotes as motivational tools for staff, and myself, and I drew an instant connection between the message in this one and my solo backpacking trip.

I interpret it to mean the growth and personal potential I hope to realize is within my power to achieve, and not by a simple change in physical location, the luck of the Irish, or support of others. I have the power to realize my full potential here and now, in my seat, at my computer desk in Arlington, Virginia, USA.

Of course, I think it'll be a heck of a lot more fun to "be here and now" while sipping a Capirinha on the beaches of Rio de Janeiro!!

Walking Along the Precipitous Cliffs of Moher

Tuesday, August 25, 1998

I decided to spring for another bus ticket ($15) to get to the Cliffs of Moher. The bus trip went by fairly slow. We got to take a car ferry for 20 minutes too. It turned out that the bus changes drivers (and has a layover of 1 ½ hours) at the cliffs. This ended up being the perfect amount of time to explore. When I got there, the weather (not the sky) was clear. Then, fog and clouds covered up the cliffs, and then it cleared a half hour later. As I was leaving, the visibility was less than 100 feet. I thought this constant change created an interesting effect.

Though I was a little weary, I decided to walk along the edge of the cliffs. It was very exhilarating, and I was proud of myself! It was the first chance on my trip that I got to climb around/up and down rocks. The scene reminded me of Friedrich's "Monk by the Sea," a very spiritual painting showing man's insignificance in relation to the size and power of nature. I took several pictures, but there is no way they will be able to convey what it felt like to be engulfed in the mist of the Atlantic.

I ended up hopping off the bus in the lower village of Doolin, the unofficial trad music capital of Ireland. I walked down to the shore where I got my first glimpse of the small ferry I would be taking to the Aran Islands. It was being tossed all over by the sea. At this point, I seriously considered changing my plans. I decided to think about it. Then I decided that if I never got the chance to come back, how could I skip these islands. Plus, if I didn't go, I would have to leave Doolin because there would be nothing to do during the day.

On the way back from the coast, I stopped at O'Connor's Pub. This was the first of the two venues for the "world class trad" music I would see. It was populated with a good mixture of locals and tourists. I decided to check out the other pub in the upper village (15 minute walk). McDermott's had about ten to fifteen people (including staff). The decor included signs like "if I wanted to hear an asshole, I would have farted." The other bar had foreign currencies and police/fire badges on the walls. At this point, I decided to hit O'Connor's for the night. I ended up not getting a seat, as it was crowded, and I was kind of bothered by the fact that they didn't do any singing. I left early, though the music was good (and original too).

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

99 Days Until Departure

As the Countdown Timer to the right indicates, I'm 99 days from expected departure! When I first set the timer up earlier in the year, I believe it was somewhere just over 200 days. While that may seem like a drop in the bucket, in reality it has been an eternity!

The waiting this year has reminded me of the months preceding my first semester of college. After the excitement of high school graduation, I found myself unable to get a summer job. Having moved to Virginia two years prior, and not done a good job at making friends, I just kept telling myself I'd start a new (and more sociable) chapter of life once I arrived at college. In the meantime though, I was simply counting down the days.

This time around, I have a career and plenty of friends, however I once again find myself simply counting down the days until the next (and most adventurous) chapter in my life. I stay in during the weekends to prevent myself from spending money. I'm not pressing myself to date. I make do with the clothes I have, rather than buying new stuff. I tune out all conversations about high-definition TV!

Regardless of how successful I am at staying in the present moment these last 99 days, it'll all be worth it when I'm swaying in the breeze on a hammock in the South Pacific, and falling asleep on the deck of a felucca while sailing down the Nile River.

5 Common Approaches to Traveling the World

It's no secret I've decided to backpack around the world, heading west until I cover the approximately 24,900 miles which account for it's circumference. The idea of non-stop travel in one general direction for months, if not years, has an exciting draw to it I can't resist. That's not to say there aren't more accessible, though equally exciting, approaches to traveling the world.

1. One Country At A Time - With 194 countries in the world today, few people will reach them all in a single lifetime, yet visiting them one by one remains the most popular approach, at least in the United States. Pacing oneself at a trip, or two if you're lucky, per year can slowly build up one's experience abroad over the course of a lifetime.

2. Circuits - The world's geography can be broken up into circuits, or well worn backpacker trails, on each of the continents. Traveling by circuit usually requires more time and money, however the reward is a much greater sense of freedom. I experienced traveling my first circuit when I spent the Summer after college graduation backpacking around Europe (in a clockwise rotation from Paris). Currently, Central America and Southeast Asia are two very popular circuits due to beneficial exchange rates.

3. 'Round the World by Circuit - If the idea of non-stop, boots to the ground, travel seems less appealing, then consider a more unique strategy. The idea is to stop back at home between circuits. The duration at home can be as little as a few weeks to rest, relax, and rebuild stamina or health, or longer to earn more money. Last year in Guatemala, I met a Brit who spent 6 months working, followed by 6 months traveling a different circuit, each year. He had taken this approach for 5 years in a row!

4. Non-stop 'Round the World - The ultimate option in terms of freedom, traveling around the world non-stop is for those who truly have a passion for being on the road, and can effectively manage the added physical, mental and emotional stresses that go along with it. The world is your very large oyster!

5. Employment/Education/Volunteering - Possibly the smartest approach to seeing the world, if you can swing it, is to work, learn, or volunteer abroad. Such a strategy can allow you to use your new home base as a launching pad for exploration of the countries in that circuit. Not only are you closer to the countries, thus making them less costly to visit, you are immersed in a new culture when not traveling! My friend Charlie has been living in China for 2.5 years, earning his living as a DJ, which allows him to work his way around China, while taking side trips to Russia and Southeast Asia in his free time.

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Travel Fear - Knackered Knees

Alliteration aside, I've been encountering knee pain as I've tried to increase my cardiovascular fitness the past few months.

It seems as though the atrophy of my quadriceps and tightness of my hamstrings have reached epic proportions in advance of a backpacking trip where I hope to scale mountains and trek the Himalaya and Andes.

At first, I couldn't believe the fact that I was experiencing chrondomalacia (an overuse syndrome, aka "Runner's knee") from trying to walk an extra 30 minutes a day (15-minute morning and afternoon breaks at work).

After all, I bought a nice pair of motion-controlled Saucony running sneakers this past Spring, and I couldn't be *that* out of shape at the young age of 30!

When the pain of needles stabbing the underside of my kneecaps didn't dissipate, I caved and went to a sports doctor/podiatrist I had seen 5 years prior when I was feeling the same pain after actually running several miles a day.

He gave me the same message he did back then - ice, isometric exercises, stretching, and wearing supportive sneakers 7 days a week. He said to give it 6-8 weeks of this routine.

I did, though didn't ice my knees much out of laziness, and am continuing to feel the pain 3 months later.

Over the weekend, I started to feel down about it. I keep trying to picture what it would be like if I take off on this trip around the world, only to find myself in chronic pain from simply walking a lot!

And my plans for a 3-week trek of the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal would be squashed like the cartilage in my knees.

Eventually, I picked myself out of this downward spiral when I went to meet Ed, a local Virginian who had mentioned 'round the world travel on a recent post to the BootsnAll message boards.

When I returned to my apartment, I decided to double my efforts to improve my poor knees:

icing them twice a day
increasing the number of daily stretching exercises
start wearing my custom molded orthotics again
take the full recommend dosage of Glucosamine/Chrondroitin/MSM supplement (vs a lesser amount to be cheap)
limiting my walking until I'm in better shape

I'm hopeful this will be something I can easily get past if I commit to all of these steps.

When I went to Costa Rica in 2005 and Belize in 2006, I didn't have any knee pain, despite a moderate amount of activity.

I think it can only help that a lot of my walking and hiking was on sand, mud, and dirt, which are notably softer than the concrete and asphalt jungles of modern America.

Storing Photos For The Road

A few weeks after getting my Creative Zen V Plus mp3 player, I've filled it with over 7 gigs of the best music I own, plus a few hundred more songs I downloaded from from Napster during a free 30-day trial. When I started to run out of A-list music, I turned to photos.

The player's screen is only 1.5 inches, so the quality leaves much to be desired, however I quickly set up and filled the following folders:

Friends and Family
Food - photos of tasty restaurant meals and home cooking
Just for Fun (aka Random) - satellite photo of my office building, totaled Jetta from '05, kickflip (above), etc
Sports - a few shots from DC United and NY Yankees games
Travel - some of my favorite photos from Washington, DC (home), Europe and Central America

As I transferred the photos, I realized the importance they may play for me on the road. In the olden days, I'm quite sure backpackers would carry a few photos of home and family to keep them company while away for long periods of time. Given we've entered the digital age, it makes sense to use the photo viewer feature of mp3 players (and digital cameras if you prefer). Also, I realized it will make it easier to share a little more about me with others (should someone feign interest of course).

Setting a bunch of photos to slide show mode, while a sappy song plays along, will surely be a comfort when I'm feeling lonely.

PS - When I bought the player, I thought I'd be able to store photos from my camera on it, as well as add music during my travels. While there is a drag and drop feature, the music, photos, and video I store in this manner will not be accessible from the player. Basically, it functions as extra storage capacity unless I have access to the Creative software.

The Ring of Kerry and The Rose of Tralee

Sunday, August 25, 1998

I awakened to the sound of rain pattering on the skylight. I decided to spend the day on the Ring of Kerry bus tour, despite the rain. I figure there has to be a rainbow and pot of gold for me out there. So far, the tour (despite feeling touristy) has been great. I tried my first Irish coffee, and it was great. I felt really ignorant when I didn't realize there was Irish whiskey in it. It just tasted so good. We stopped at a shepherd's home for a demonstration of his dogs. The two dogs (collies?) were so well trained, it was amazing. The sheep are crazy; they jump off cliffs and run up the mountain to eat their grass.

I think I like the cloudy weather. It is really neat to see the clouds and fog roll around and over the mountains. And the occasional rain shower adds to the effect. I have seen a few bits of blue sky, but I doubt it will clear up much. The rest of the trip was quite scenic, and the driver put on the "Celtic Moods" tape so we had some music too. I haven't written in here for several days, so I'm a little hazy on the events of the day/night. According to habit, though, I went to see some music, and got drunk.

Monday, August 26, 1998

I decided to stop in Tralee and check out the festival. For the first time, the train station didn't have any town maps. I ended up walking four times the distance necessary to get to the town center. But once I saw the lights hanging across the street, I decided to stay. Also, the Finnegan's hostel was right in the middle of the town. It was a little expensive ($15). I took a walk throughout the park, where there was a giant rose garden, hence the "Rose of Tralee" beauty pageant festival. The city was a little too busy/big for me. I caught the second set of a show by the Guinness Jazz Band. Since I have no idea what is good jazz, I can't report on their skills. They were playing a lot of music that I knew though. The drummer was only 15 too, so he definitely had some natural talent.

The night arrived, and the Guinness Gig Rig (18 wheel truck) opened into a stage. After checking the scene at the first act, I decided to find some music in a pub. The group I found was made up of two or three old guys. They were good, but I didn't have a seat, and was cramped under the speaker by the door. For that reason, I left and went back early (11 PM). Oh, there were some impressive carnival rides set up. The whole scene reminded my of the Grady Squash festival in "Doc Hollywood."

Earlier that night, I had decided to splurge and get a good dinner. I went to Finnegan's, which was in the basement of the hostel (though not associated with the hostel). The atmosphere was really nice. Dark, cool, quiet, green candles in wine bottles, peat fire. I got the following: gin and tonic, warm brown bread, onion soup, chicken kiev w/salad and potatoes, chocolate mousse and Irish coffee. It was delicious. With tip, it cost about $40. The whole experience was bettered by the older (50+) couple who sat next to me. They had been all over, China, India, South America, and Europe. They were from San Diego. There was a picture of JFK on the wall which makes me wonder if he had eaten there. Only know do I realize that he was Irish, and that might be the reason.

The room I was in sucked. When I came back at one point during the afternoon, my sheets were all wet! I couldn't get a warm shower in the morning. For the first time, I had to sleep on the top bunk. There was a guy who kept me up with his snoring and farting.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Coffee and Travel Talk

It's no secret I'm a huge fan of the Couchsurfing concept and website, so I was excited when I had the chance to meet up with Monika (a new couchsurfer and local Arlingtonian) last night for coffee and travel talk. As much as I am inspired by the written word and blogs, it still can't beat exchanging stories and experiences with another person who shares the same passion in life!

Monika had e-mailed me through Couchsurfing with some questions about my backpacking trip around the world, and it just so happened that she worked for The Travel Channel, so it seemed to be a match made in travel heaven. I gave her my copy of Wanderlust and Lipstick and she surprised me with a No Reservation's pint glass (which I promptly filled with a Guinness after getting home, in honor of host Anthony Bourdain).

We continued talking long after our coffees had been consumed. She was born in India, and had plenty of advice for me regarding that country, as she use to spend her Summers there after having moved to the United States as a child. My favorite experience though, was her 6-month tour of Europe as a Coca-Cola Ambassador. I didn't find out what that entailed, as I was hung up on the fact that it meant she could travel on the company's bill! She recommended Bratislava, Slovakia, for a sense of what an Eastern European city looked like from a Communist and Capitalist perspective (the division being a river through the city).

I especially enjoyed relaying my thoughts (and those I've read from others in the travsphere) about the various Travel Channel shows which I've watched, such as 5 Takes and 1,000 Places to See Before You Die.

Even if you have no desire to host travelers, or be a guest yourself, Couchsurfing.com is a great way to meet new people who share a common passion for travel!

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PS - Monika - Thanks again for the pint glass. It's one thing I *won't* sell before leaving!

David Beckham Debuts Vs. DC United

I know I'm supposed to be in hardcore savings mode with about 3 months until departure, however, I got caught up in the media hype surrounding David Beckham's arrival in the United States last month.

When regular (vs. season/group) tickets finally went on sale, all were sold out except the corner upper deck seats (and even those were more expensive than normal).

I decided to catch the game on TV until I received an e-mail from the Barra Brava fan club I joined earlier in the year.

They still had single tickets for sale in their dedicated section (center, closest to the field).

The game turned out to be one of the best I've seen or attended in my past four years of following DC United (and soccer in general)!

I'll try to describe the scene from within Section 135 of a sold-out stadium of 46,000 fans:

Barra section stood on seats (as always)
Constant songs and chants (foul language aplenty)
Drums pound non-stop
Flags waved - big and small
Despite sundown, oppressive heat and humidity have us sweating like pigs
DC's Brazilian, Emilio, scored the one and only goal - beer flies everywhere
Green smoke bombs cloud the air
Flashbulbs flicker as Beckham began warm-ups around the 35th minute
Torrential rain begins before halftime
LA Galaxy player gets a red card (ejected) in the 66th minute (dangerous tackle)
Beckham takes the field (after taking off shirt for the ladies) in the 70th minute
Beckham bends his first MLS free-kick (LA misses equalizing opportunity)

Hot dog - $3 / Midfield-row 7 seat - $35 / Watching a soccer great debut in a new country's league - Priceless!

Killarney and The Blarney Stone

Saturday, August 22, 1998

I packed up and left early. Took the 8:45 AM train to Blarney. I made the mistake of bringing my backpack with me. I had a nice hangover too. Plus, I decided to skip the shower. Actually, I thought I'd be showering a lot less on this trip. Blarney Castle is definitely the best castle I've seen. Part of this is due to the beautiful setting in the green hills, and the little streams flowing. I climbed up the very steep cantilevered steps to the top of the keep. I had arrived before most of the tourists, so I was up there with only about ten people. I have a feeling that it is hard to get up there when it is crowded, due to the narrow stairs. Anyway, the Blarney Stone was up there, and I saw a girl kiss it. It really looked gross, but apparently people of all ages do it. Climbing down the stairs with my pack was really cutting things close. There was a lot of graffiti on the walls. It was a very small, personal castle for tourists to visit.

After the castle, I went to the Rock Close, an ancient druid ceremonial piece of land on the grounds. I was really surprised by the sights, such as the Wishing Steps, Witch's Cave, and Druid's Cave. Some of the trees were over 1,000 years old. The druid ritual sites were over 2,000 years old. Very cool, and I was practically alone in the area. The whole garden/park is cool because it really encourages exploration. I found this out when I entered Badger's Cave and the castle's Dungeon (with my flashlight). Both were cool and damp. I went to the end of the Badger's Cave, I think. The Dungeon creeped me out though, and I didn't want to go too far in by myself. When I turned out my flashlight, it was pitch black. This made me think about those crazy spelunkers.

I'm on my way to Killarney now. I think Blarney Castle has revitalized my enjoyment of Ireland. I didn't really like Cork as a city. Too big. I've found it easier to eat fast food after a few pints. Needless to say, my bowels are up in revolt about my Irish diet. Oh, I bought my official Irish wool sweater today. I got it on sale, along with tape number one of Irish pub songs. Is every goddamn train smoking in Ireland? We pulled into the first station where we arrived twenty minutes late. Another train let off a whole bunch of kids. There train had been no smoking, so they all got onto my train quite excited about the rest of their trip. The train quickly filled with smoke and noise. I was pissed for a bit, as I gagged on the billowing smoke. Then I put my Irish pub tape in my Walkman, and was happy with what I heard. Plus, I took a piss. I saw myself in the mirror, with my new sweater on, and I looked about forty years older. Sigh.

The train arrived in Killarney about 1 ¼ hours late. For the first time in the British Isles, I had to go to a second choice hostel for a room. My thoughts about staying in the Rail station hostel were changed when I saw my room with skylight, and the large showers. I walked around the town, and started my pub crawl. I went to the Laurels Singing Pub in hopes of good trad music. Instead, I found myself among tour groups of senior citizens. I felt about 25 years younger than everyone else. A guy with a stomach as big as a keg of Guinness sang, and hosted the show. I got out after an hour (I had to get my cover charges worth of entertainment). The next pub was no better. The two girls and guy (old enough to be their dad) were not smiling or even enthusiastic, as they played their trad music. They actually brought me down. I ended up that the Beer Garden which is an outdoor courtyard (w/stage) surrounded by two bars. I finally got to hear some good music. Unfortunately, they finished up at 11:30 PM, so I only caught the end of the show. As I search for some down home traditional sessions, I'd probably be better off in a rural area. I went home drunk.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

The Last Kiss

Michael: I've been thinking about my life lately, and everything feels pretty planned out. There's no more surprises.

Last night I sat down and watched The Last Kiss, a Zach Braff movie which was released last Fall. If you enjoyed Garden State, then you'll probably enjoy The Last Kiss, though it's much heavier on the drama.

The plot revolves around 4 long time friends who face the age of 30 with varying degrees of commitment to the women in their lives.

Michael (played by Zach) - not married, girlfriend is pregnant, afraid of the future
Chris - unhappily married, with baby
Izzy - heartbroken over girlfriend who recently dumped him
Kenny - quintessential bachelor
Kim (played by Rachel Bilson of The OC) - college girl with a crush on Michael

Kim: Did you know that the institution of marriage was created when the average person lived to the age of 30

What caught my attention was the idea Izzy had to ride a motorcycle from his home town in Wisconsin to Tierra del Fuego, the southernmost tip of Argentina. He seemed set on the idea, and wanted Kenny to join him. Kenny, having just hooked up with a wild (in bed) girl from a wedding they all attended, brushed Kenny's suggestion aside stating how happy he was with his life. It was only later, after the girl surprised Kenny with an introduction to her parents, did he realize his fling was turning into a relationship (which meant it was time to join Izzy for an adventure). They ended up buying an RV for the drive.

As much as I'd like to see myself as the Michael of the group, I neither have a girlfriend, nor pretty college girls trying to pick me up at weddings. Perhaps this makes my decision to travel into the big world all the easier. Someday I would like to see myself married....with children. That someday is not today though! And it is not next year either! I've been fully committed to this travel opportunity that lay ahead of me, and it is full steam ahead (unless I run into Rachel Bilson sometime soon).

Kim: Having a crisis are we?
Michael: Do I look like I'm having a crisis?
Kim: Everyone I know is having a crisis. I know you're not supposed to get them until midlife but I think something's happening to our metabolism
Michael: Our metabolism?
Kim: [nods] Yeah, I mean the world is moving so fast now, we are all chasing something so fast that we start freaking out long before our parents did. Feel my heart.
[puts his hand in her chest]
Kim: Feel how fast it is?
Michael: ...that's a fast heart.
Kim: "˜Cause we don't ever stop to breathe anymore...
Kim: You gotta remember to breathe or you'll die.

New and Improved Route for Oceania and Asia

After getting a little frustrated trying to figure out how to approach Tibet from Nepal during the first 6 months of my backpacking trip around the world, I've come to develop a new and improved route. I had posted my quandary on the RTW branch of the Lonely Planet forum, and received some feedback which sent me in a new direction.

Without further ado...

New Zealand (fly, Dec 07)
Australia (fly, Dec-Jan 08)
Bali, Indonesia (fly, Jan)
Singapore (fly, Feb)
Hong Kong (fly, Feb)
China (overland, Feb-March)
Tibet (overland, March)
Nepal (overland, April)
India (overland, May)
Thailand (fly, June)
Cambodia (overland, July)
Vietnam (overland, July-Aug)
South Africa (fly via Bangkok, Aug)

The fact that I continue to make major changes to my route with less than 4 months go to underlines my desire to remain flexible. If I had already paid for a 'Round the World airline ticket and locked in certain cities, I would be hamstrung to them, or paying added fees to make changes.

PS - Counting this week, I have only 3 full weeks of work left before I submit my resignation. The rest of the weeks I have at least one half or full day off, or full-day trainings to attend. I've decided to give 4 weeks notice, as I expect the news will come as a BIG surprise to my boss and coworkers. I imagine my last day will feel something like college graduation. I can't wait!

Bhutanese Red Rice - A Surprise At the Supermarket

I know the United States continues to import more and more food from abroad, however I was surprised to come across 15-ounce bags of Bhutanese Red Rice at my local Harris Teeter supermarket the other day. Given the unlikelihood I'll ever visit that very costly little Buddhist country, I picked up a bag of the rice thinking at least I can try their grains.

When I put a cup of it in some boiling water, the red coloring immediately dyed the water blood red. I'm not normally a fan of heartier rices, however Bhutan did not disappoint! I added a little butter and salt to the cooked rice, and it was enough for a tasty dinner and lunch the next day.

Lotus Foods did a nice job describing the rice on the bag too....

Bhutanese Red Rice grows at 8,000 feet in the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan. Irrigated with 1,000-year-old glacier water in rich minerals, this premium heirloom rice is distinguished by its complex nutty flavor, and beautiful russet color.

So much of the experience of traveling to other countries is tied to their food. I'm ready to go buck wild once I hit Southeast Asia. Until then, I'll just have to keep cooking up my own Chicken Pad Thai!

What was the last food you were surprised to find at a local grocery store or market?

The Beautiful City of Kilkenny

Wednesday, August 19, 1998

I woke up this morning with a plan, check out and grab a train to Kilkenny. I hadn't looked at the train schedule, so I went at it blindly. I made the train about five minutes before it left. They didn't even stamp my Eurorail pass. This means lots of train travel (for me) in Ireland.

I ended up taking a very out of the way route to the hostel in Kilkenny, but I got a bed. I arrived during their annual Arts Festival. Though I wasn't interested in going to any of the exhibitions, there was probably an increased sense of energy among the people. The train ride was short, with beautiful scenery of farms, mountains, sheep, and cattle. So, Kilkenny is a pretty small town. It is really beautiful. The big flower pots along the street had at least ten different kinds of flowers in each of them. Very colorful. And all the storefronts were clean with new paint. I decided to leave the sights for tomorrow, and went for a beer.

The Pumphouse seemed like a college bar (with better beer). Though it was only 3 PM, it was quite crowded (all young people). I didn't really like it, too loud, or maybe because I didn't have anyone to talk to. Poster of Kurt Cobain on the wall. I left, crossed the street to my hostel, and took a nap. I rose to find some entertainment. I went to a bar that was having a trad session in an hour. I sat there thinking about how this quiet place is going to hold a bunch of fun soon. Left at 9:30 PM when after only one musician arrived, and the music looked far off. Went to a big bar called Matt the Millers. There, the Bottle Brothers began playing once I entered. They opened with Tom Petty, and hit several Eagles and about ten Simon and Garfunkel tunes. I requested the Byrds, but they didn't know them, then Bob Dylan. I didn't stick around to hear if they played my request. Took a short walk to the Pumphouse. The guy there recognized me from earlier (Carlsberg), and thought I had left without paying. It turns out that I had actually paid one of the other bartenders.

Thursday, August 20, 1998

I slept late because the room I was in was filled with older guys who all seemed tired. Went to Kilkenny Castle with a hangover. It was quite nice. I bought a ticket for an open air theater performance that night of "Much Ado About Nothing." I took the castle tour. It was really nice. Unlike Dover, the castle had been refurbished with original materials, art and furniture. Mailed postcards. Adidas athletic wear is very popular over here in Ireland, and England too. And not just the shirts, but the pants too (the whole outfit). I went on the Smithwick's Brewery tour, which turned out to be just a film strip and tasting (1 pint). But it was free. Next, I went to Smartmac's, which was an Irish owned fast food chain. I had gone last night and been satisfied with the meal. This time I felt sick afterwards. Took a nap before the show. It started to rain.

It ended up raining for the first half hour of the performance. The bleachers were filled with mostly adults. I knew I had read the play, but I had forgotten the plot. I ended up following it quite easily. Laughed a lot. The production and stage direction (lighting, music) was great. Much more fun than I expected. After the show, I went to sleep.

I planned to leave for Cork tomorrow. The trains are weird though, they only have a limited line service, so I don't know if I'll make it. Either way, I figure everything will be fine. I called home for the third time today. Spoke to mom. Heard a short update about President Clinton's problems yesterday on the train. He really has made some dumb choices (if this Monica Lewinsky allegation is true, most of them probably are too). It is a shame too, because he seems like a smart guy (2 terms of presidency at such a young age). Also makes me think that Bush, Reagan, and Nixon probably didn't face such private problems. Lots of Cadbury chocolate up in the United Kingdom.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

The Challenges of Entering Tibet From Nepal

A few weeks ago, I was merrily collecting entry and visa requirements for the first few countries I intend to visit on my trip around the world. All was going well until I reached Nepal.

Monastery in Tibet (photo: hbieser, Pixabay). — Monastery in Tibet (photo: hbieser)

Getting into Nepal will be simple, as Americans can get a 60-day visa upon arrival. However, it didn't take long for me to find out that accessing Tibet from the Nepalese side (versus the Chinese side) as an independent traveler may be extremely difficult.

Visiting Tibet is very important to me. A few years ago, after reading the Dalai Lama's autobiography, I started to feel a great sense of sympathy and compassion for the Tibetan people and their culture.

It upsets me to hear, read, and learn about the human rights abuses that are occurring, the need for Tibetans to flee their land over the dangerous Himalaya (into India), and the increasing influence China continues to exert in the region.

The fact that a Tibetan's mention of the Dalai Lama by name can have them thrown in jail is appalling.

During my research, I came across a wealth of information about traveling in Tibet from an Australian. Tony Williams of Victoria, Australia, has built quite a resource for independent travel to Tibet.

Front and center is a recent warning in big red lettering:

Following some disturbances in April 2007, in May 2007 the "rules" for travel to Lhasa and the T.A.R. effectively changed, particularly as they affect independent travel. The situation is volatile and uncertain.

Essentially, "rules" that have been overlooked and effectively in abeyance for years have been enforced again, so that travelers on fully organized tours are the only ones officially allowed to enter the T.A.R.

T.A.R. stands for the Tibetan Autonomous Region. As I began reading through the information Tony had collected, it became clear that I was quickly moving out of my comfort zone and into the reality of a Communist country's paranoia.

A Chinese visa is required for entry into Tibet. The fact that the first rule he lists when applying for a visa is not to mention your travel plans to Tibet (as you will be denied) seems to illustrate the challenges I'll face.

It also seems apparent that a separate Tibet Tourism Bureau Permit (TTB) is required. When entering Tibet from Nepal, life can be simplified if you are part of a tour group (which takes care of a group visa and TTB permit on your behalf).

I am not opposed to joining a Tibet tour group if it will allow me to travel relatively hassle-free from Nepal to Tibet. However, Tony's information indicates that trouble and fees can ensue for travelers who want to continue to China (vs returning to Nepal) after the tour.

The Tibet forum on The Lonely Planet message board will probably be my best source of up-to-date information. Just yesterday, a traveler posted my concern about changing from a group to an individual visa once in Tibet.

The advice was not to get an individual visa for China from home, as it would be canceled at the Tibetan border (because you'll have a group visa, too). In addition, the responses indicated that converting your visa is not an easy task.

Before I spin myself and my readers in any more circles, I want to reaffirm that I will figure this all out and visit Nepal and Tibet in less than nine months. I hope you'll join me for this wild ride!

5 Tips For Telling Your Parents About a RTW Trip

If you've hatched the idea to take an extended period of time off after school, or quit your job to travel the world, though are nervous to tell your parents or loved ones, than this is the post for you.

1. Pick a Public Place - Your parents will be much more likely to respond in a dignified manner if you're sharing the news in a public setting. I let the news slip out at a delicious dinner with my parents at L'Auberge Chez Francois, a popular French restaurant in Great Falls, VA.

2. Share Your Plans During a Celebration - You are excited about your news. You may have been living with the dream for several years already, however your parents may not have a clue. By choosing a celebratory time, such as during a holiday get-together, you are automatically countering a certain degree of anxiety which will naturally arise. After all, your news may be against the backdrop of love, laughter, wine drinking, and presents. The aforementioned dinner with my parents at Chez Francois was to celebrate my 27th birthday.

3. Test the News on a Supportive Relative or Friend - Unless your parents are life long hippies, they'll likely find the idea of their son or daughter leaving the perceived safety of the homeland for the dangers of the world a bit scary. During my new age Aunt's visit to VA, I mentioned my travel plans over a Greek dinner. Her immediate reaction was positive and supportive. Hearing her encouragement gave me the added confidence to share the plans with my parents.

4. Emphasize the Positive - Parents fundamentally want what is best for their children, and more specifically, for them to be happy (at least that is the ideal). Chances are that if you're passionate about the idea of a backpacking trip around the world, this tip won't require extra effort. Ensure you have a few counterpoints to the typical concerns of cost, safety, and difficulty finding work upon return home.

5. Do It Sooner Rather Than Later - The sooner you share your plans with your parents, the more time they will have to absorb it all before you leave. While not a parent myself, I'm sure they would appreciate the time to let it sink in. Involve them in the planning, and you may find they quickly become your most ardent, proud supporters! This will come in handy when you line up their home as your de-facto residence upon return.

Good luck!

Capital One - My 'Round the World Credit Card

After scouring the BootsnAll Around the World and Vagabonding Travel message board for the ideal credit card, and finding recent affirmation of Capital One on Leave America, I decided to bite the bullet and apply for my first new, personal credit card in about 7 years.

The key motivating factor in picking Capital One was the zero percent fee on foreign currency transactions.

Most cards have at least a 1% fee which covers the cost of Visa money exchange fees, however, Capital One supposedly absorbs it (perhaps as a competitive advantage, which appears to be working!).

I believe the last personal credit card I tried to get was at a Best Buy, so I could put a car mp3 player on it (which I so desired at the time).

I remember being turned down instantaneously at the counter in the store. You know your credit is weak when a retailer turns you down.

Since then, and my decision to position myself to take 1-2 years off to backpack, I've greatly improved my credit score.

When I applied online for my Capital One Visa, my application was approved in seconds, I qualified for the one I wanted (No Hassle Miles Rewards), and received my highest credit limit to date ($20,000).

I had a moment of joy, which was soon replaced with the fear of going back into debt.

I am going to request they reduce my limit by 50%.

Card Benefits:

$0 Fraud Liability for any unauthorized use if your card is lost or stolen
No fees on purchases made outside of the United States
24-Hour Travel & Emergency Assistance
$100,000 Worldwide Automatic Travel Accident Insurance
Additional protection on your purchases with Visa^®'s extended warranty program
Emergency card replacement or cash advance if your card is lost or stolen

As I plan to open an E*Trade money market account (for my ATM access), the credit card will be strictly limited to the occasional airline ticket, and emergency back-up support.

I will pay it off monthly to help mitigate the variable 13.95% APR.

What's in your wallet?

In Dublin's Fair City

Monday, August 17, 1998

I got a bed in the first hostel I went to. I'm really beginning to doubt "Let's Go" when it comes to accommodation warnings during the summer.

I dropped my stuff off and went for a walk around the town.

The city is quite small for a capital; the average building is only four or five stories tall. St. Stephen's Green was really beautiful.

The weather this morning is quite cold. In fact, without my long pants and jacket, I'd be really cold.

I ate breakfast in a Johnny Rocket's diner (which I was surprised to come across).

For lunch/dinner, I went to the Porter House (my first pub in Ireland) and got a cheeseburger and two house pints for $15.

Moderation is hardly a choice for me while drinking English and Irish beers.

They are very filling, and I can't seem to drink them very quickly. This made me reflect on the cheap American beers.

They are so watery; it is no wonder people binge drink. I really drink Dublin and Ireland.

At night, I went to a few pubs, including Fitsimmons, where I stayed for the Trad(itional) Irish music and Set Dancing.

I knew what I would get with the band, but the three female dancers surprised me.

The bottom of their shoes have metal plates (like tap dancing), and it creates a thunderous sound when they stamp down on the small wooden stage.

They took turns doing solos and then would come back into unison. Meanwhile, I was only able to drink one more pint.

By 11:30 PM, I was halfway done with my pint of Breo (White Beer by Guinness) when the music stopped. I felt really guilty leaving the beer.

Like London, Dublin feels quite safe. The cops don't carry guns here either.

About five minutes after I got into bed, a girl came up (to my loft) and said she had just been assigned my bed.

After she went down to inform the guy that I was there, the guy came into my room and turned the lights on, and said I hadn't been put in the computer. I really don't know what he wanted from me.

Also, I did the rest of my laundry today. My sneakers smell so bad now that when I wear clean socks for just a bit, they stink by association.

Tuesday, August 18, 1998

This morning I headed out toward the Guinness Hopstore. The self-guided tour cost $4.50 (w/student discount).

It was a little less flashy than the Heineken tour, and you only got one pint of beer at the end (instead of all you could drink in a time period). They also seemed to have a lot of gift shop business.

After that, I headed toward Trinity College. The inner courtyard felt like an oasis/refuge from the noise and traffic of the city.

I made the stupid mistake of buying tickets to the "Dublin Experience" film and the Book of Kells.

The movie was really corny, and I didn't learn too much. The Book of Kells was thought to be one of the most beautiful manuscripts (and at least 1,000 years old).

Anyway, it seemed ok, but the pages on display didn't seem any more impressive than other manuscripts I've seen. So I went back to the hostel for a rest.

I headed out to get a head start on the night's drinking. I've started to collect coasters from all the bars. Back to Temple Bar (a cultural/hip district in Dublin).

I bought a ticket for the musical pub crawl. It was led by a guy (Anthony) who sang, played the guitar, and the bodhran, and a girl (Nell) who sang (one song) and played the fiddle.

She was cute too. Pierced belly and tongue, with a tattoo on her upper left arm, and short black hair.

She chain-smoked like crazy. There were a lot of people on the crawl. We went to three bars and sang some songs.

I managed to get quite drunk. Drunk enough to buy their CD for ten pounds ($15). For that price, I got it signed!

Afterward, I hung around and talked (and listened) to them for a bit. I asked for recommendations on where to go.

Nell mentioned Clare and Kilkenny. About one place, she talked about swimming pools that formed on the shore during low tide.

There were all different types: naked guys, kids, tourists, etc. I left shortly thereafter, at which point I forgot everything she had said so enthusiastically.

I decided to leave for Kilkenny in the morning.

_____________________

Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Meet the Needles

I picked up my second Hepatitis B shot ($80) and an adult Polio booster ($50) during a lunch break this week. A $15 office fee was tacked on to the cost of the shots, which brought the total to $145. Luckily, my insurance will cover the Hep series, and office visit. Unfortunately though, I'm running into an issue with getting a reimbursement in a timely fashion. As it turns out, I might have to ask my mom to help me account for my reimbursements one I've left (yes, I'm worried it'll take several months for the issue to get resolved).

If I could do it again, I would've anticipated a longer reimbursement time frame, and started getting the shots earlier in the year. All the immunizations I'm getting are good for several years, so it would've been fine to get them sooner rather than later.

Next month, I intend to get my Yellow Fever ($98) shot, followed by the third and final Hep-B shot in October (at least 4 months after the first shot). I will then be fully immunized against *some* of what's out there.

I've also decided on a Malaria drug, however I am going to save that topic for another day!

___________________

Additional Resources: SmarTravel Profiles on 220 countries. USA Center for Disease Control - Traveler's Health section. Immunization Action Coalition - Vaccination Information for Healthcare Professionals.

The Costa Rica Connection

Two nights ago I met up with my friend Stefan for some deep dish pizza and travel stories. We had only hung out once prior, in Santa Elena, Costa Rica about two years ago. Santa Elena is the little town outside the popular Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve. No, the guy in the photo above is not Stefan. I just decided to snap that photo of some random backpackers because it was so typical of our lives on the road - acoustic guitar, beer, hammock, and a pollo (chicken) joint across the street from the hostel.

So it was a little over two years ago that we hung out in the cloud forest, toured a cheese factory after an unsuccessful attempt to find a giant waterfall, and dined at that pollo place. Since then, we managed to e-mail each other the occasional update on our respective lives. Earlier this year, he sent me some of his experiences from India, which I promptly posted. And after his internship in Germany wrapped up, he bought a car in Philly, and swung through the Washington, DC area on his way back home to Phoenix, AZ.

Unfortunately, this experience was the exception, not the rule. Despite the best of intentions, I've found it rare that I'm able to connect with the guys and gals with whom I share some really great experiences abroad.

For example, in Montezuma, Costa Rica, I stood atop a 30-foot waterfall, asking that a guy snap a photo of me as I jumped off. He took the pic, and I wrote my e-mail address on a piece of paper the size of my pinkie. Needless to say, I never saw that photo. In Belize last year, I spent several days with a group of friends from Richmond, VA (90 miles from me). We swam, drank, snorkeled, ate, and fished together. It was a blast. I gave one of the guys my contact info, and never heard from them again. Earlier on that trip, I hung out with a couple of guys from the British army during their R&R. Before their sad departure back home, Darren gave me his e-mail address. When I got home, I tried e-mailing him, only to have the messages bounce back.

Does anyone else find this happens to them?

______________

PS - Stefan initially planned to camp during his cross-country drive to Phoenix, however he has found the CouchSurfing options so numerous, that he's taking that approach instead. In Alexandria, VA, he was staying with a doctor and his family (in the nice part of town). When I met up with him, he was using a mountain bike they had lent him for the day!

Creating the Ultimate MP3 Playlist

If I've been a little quiet lately, it's the fact that I continue to be consumed with the sheer amount of work involved in updating my music library, categorizing everything, and then selecting the 8 gigs worth of songs to put on my new Creative Zen V Plus MP3 Player. I feel like my right arm is about to fall off. I'm more than halfway there though, with 907 hand-selected songs already chosen to be part of the soundtrack to my trip of a lifetime!

Among the lucky artists set to accompany me....

AFI
Allen Ginsberg (reading "Howl")
Ben Harper
Bob Dylan
Bob Marley
CKY
Dinosaur Jr
Frank Sinatra
Green Day
Guns 'n Roses
Iron Maiden
Jay-Z
New Found Glory
Orbital
Paul Oakenfold
Sublime
The Pogues
Ween
....and many, many more

For those in the market for a new MP3 player, I am extremely satisfied with the Zen Plus. I felt a little blind buying it, as they don't really let you get your hands on them in the retail stores. It's super light weight, easy to operate, and fun to use.

The screen is a seemingly small 1.5 inches, however video plays pretty well on it. To (ahem) test it out, I transferred my TV interview. The odd part is that while the file was 30 megs, the compression increased the file size by almost 3x (to about 80 megs). Perhaps someone can help explain that to me? Otherwise, the FM tuner works well, it has line in recording (to get tracks direct from CD's), photo storage, on the fly playlists, and the ability to store data files (documents).

The only downside I can see is that it recharges based on a USB connection. Luckily, I have my eye on a power converter which includes a USB interface. Still, I could easily use up the whole 15-hour battery life on my first flight to New Zealand.

The Long Journey To Dublin, Ireland

Sunday, August 16, 1998

This morning I faced a day without theater. I dropped my bags at the bus station, and went up to Piccadilly. Once there, I went to the Pepsi Trocadero. Though I had stopped in a few nights ago, it was less crowded now. I went to see "Everest" in the IMAX Theater for $10. It wasn't worth it. There were some cool scenes, one or two moments of rumble and bass, but overall, it was a disappointment. I also played "Top Skater" and the "Lost World" in the arcade (for a $1.50 per game). The whole complex is a giant marketing tool for Pepsi, with about fifteen vending machines and the Spice Girls Next Generation X commercial song playing every five minutes. It is another cool and beautiful day in London. It should be even cooler in Ireland. I don't really think there are any touristy things I want to do for the rest of the trip. For that reason, I'm content with just drinking. I figured out that I went $150 over budget for my six days in England. However, that does include $80 in round trip train/bus/ferry tickets.

Whoops! It seems I made an expensive mistake by not doing my travel homework. It seems Eurorail pass holders get to use a day for the ferry ride to Ireland, plus use of the trains (in Ireland). Oh well, live and learn (I say this while drinking dome really good beer). I've had so many different types of beer and cider that I can't even bother to keep track. There have been the good and bad of each type of drink. I think it is cool that the cops don't carry guns. GUNS SUCK! It is definitely part of America's downfall/ignorance. I can't imagine how much safer life would be if they were not as common. So much less death?!

I've really been enjoying watching the people and life of London (especially from a pub window). I also think that it is funny that I'm leaving London without any pictures (by choice, no less). I'm definitely disappointed that I didn't meet any English girls; they appear to be quite cute. I've got some postcards to mail. It has been awhile but oh well. I've been thinking about myself more than others lately. Puff Daddy, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Kate Winslet are going to Dave, Courtland, and Eric respectively. Oh, I forgot to mention that I saw some skaters outside the Royal National Theater. What seemed so cool was the fact that nobody had kicked them off the property. I'm really pretty tired right now, and I think I'll be able to get some good sleep on the trip to Dublin. Before I leave London, I'm going to go to an Internet cafe. I'd like to check my email, but more especially, I'd like to find out more about the festival in Belgium. Have I mentioned how much I like London yet? Like I expected, England (the Clash, Beatles, Sex Pistols) is pretty cool! And the weird thing is I have yet to receive a warm, non-carbonated beer. Maybe I'm just in the touristy area or just not ordering authentic English beer. Another nice thing about London (and Europe in general) is not getting carded for a drink. Actually, it is really pleasant. I'm starting to miss skateboarding and driving (my car).

After hitting the Internet, I decided that the concert wasn't worth the trouble since it wasn't in a major city. Instead, I'll spend the extra time in Ireland! I was kind of disappointed to find that nobody had emailed me. As I rode out of London on the bus, I realized how big the city was, and how little I had seen. I did decide that Leicester Square and Piccadilly Circus were the rocking part of town. This bus has turbo charged, overhead air vents. Really, when I thought of "ferry," I pictured basic seating on an old iron boat (or at least something like the vaporettos). Right now, I'm aboard a luxury Irish Ferry sipping a pint of Kilkenny on the Sky view deck, looking forward to watching the sun rise over the Irish Sea in a few hours. I also can't believe Dave (or Sam) would choose to leave such awesome opportunities behind? It is slightly chilly though. I feel like I'm on the Titanic. This is the biggest and nicest boat I've ever been on (which is hard for me to believe). I'm definitely going to take a luxury cruise somewhere, someday. I wish I could meet a cute Irish girl on this journey.

Ok, I'm seasick. I thought you wouldn't be able to feel the boat moving, but you can! When I walk, I sway. Needless to say, I won't be drinking any more beer. I'm already regretting the one I had bought earlier, while we were at dock. Let me say, when I first got up, I could barely tell whether it was my drunkenness or the boat swaying. I guess I should be happy it isn't worse? Well, I'm trying to calm down by eating and drinking some water. Unlike 50-75% of the people on board, I doubt I can sleep. I just saw some woman barf into the garbage after paying for her meal. After trying to down some food in the restaurant, I took a nap for about an hour on the bench at my table. When I woke up, the sun had risen, and people were clamoring around, eating breakfast. The swaying had practically stopped, and I realized how much bumpier it had been before.

_____________________

Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Ripping CD's For a Creative Zen V Plus 8GB Portable Media Player

In addition to getting my car fixed and looking up Visa info this past weekend, I also started to go OCD on ripping all of my CD's to mp3's.

Talk about a thankless task! No wonder I had put it off for years.

Actually, the most recent version of Windows Media Player (8, I think) is making quick work of the process.

It's just that I have so many CD's.

Now that I'm working on it though, I know I have to get through them all, otherwise, it'll take me three more years to motivate myself again.

On Sunday, after spending hours and hours going through music I once listened to religiously, though it has collected dust more recently, I finally decided on an mp3 player for my trip around the world.

And the winner is the Creative Zen V Plus 8GB Portable Media Player.

Pros

extremely small, non-flashy, and discrete
made of scratch-resistant, lightweight plastic
8 glorious gigs of memory
low cost - only $144 shipped (through Buy.com w/$10 Google discount)
FM tuner
built-in battery (15hrs per charge) means less money spent on disposable batteries which is good for my wallet and the environment

Cons

Creative players are no longer featuring FM recording (due to issues with recording industry)
users have indicated the joystick control in the center can break off, and that player freezes often
small 1.5-inch screen may cause me to go blind and/or lose my mind while navigating stored music
built-in battery means I could find myself without tunes unexpectedly (I'm sure I'd survive)
there's more I'll soon find out, because neither Circuit City, nor Best Buy, had a working version (those players must get manhandled in the stores, and they're too cheap to keep the display ones in working order; quite a shame for customers)

As I continue to slide CD's in and out of my computer drive, I'm beginning to wonder how I'll decide what music to bring.

I'd guesstimate that I have about 24 gigs in total.

I know there are people out there with far more.

And I'd have more too had I not sold so many of my CD's when I was a young lad trying to scrounge up extra cash from time to time.

Visas for New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia and Thailand

Over the weekend, I found myself getting into the nitty-gritty travel details tied to entrance requirements for the first few countries on my itinerary.

Since the only information I had researched previously on this topic came from the first edition of Rough Guide's First-Time Around the World, I quickly found entrance requirements and fees had changed in most places.

New Zealand

New Zealand doesn't require a Visa for Americans, however from their government website, they appear strict about having proof of onward travel (such as a paid airline ticket, not just proof of funds like a bank statement).

As a result, my first plane ticket will be from Washington, DC to Australia, via New Zealand.

Australia

When I hit up Australia's Visa and Immigration site, I quickly found that you can apply for an Electronic Travel Authority online, which is like an electronic Visa.

There is no charge for the ETA/Visa, however, it does require a $20 processing fee.

The ETA lets you stay for up to three months, within a 12 month period of the date it is granted. It looked so easy, I just took care of it in a matter of minutes.

Basically, if you are a passport-holder from an approved country (like the USA), you fill out the online form with your passport info, give them a credit card, and they (in my case) instantly approve you and keep your data on record for future access by travel agencies and/or immigration/customs agents.

Indonesia (Bali)

Knocking of Indonesia was as easy as scrolling through the dedicated BootsnAll Bali forum.

As it turns out, Americans can get a 30-day Visa on arrival (VOA). I saw conflicting information regarding cost, however, I believe $25 is about right.

Thailand

Being that I was on a roll, I headed over to the Asia forum on BootsnAll and quickly found that Americans can get a free Visa on arrival, good for up to 30 days.

A Tourist Visa can be acquired for $25; good for up to 60 days.

Feeling good, I started to delve into the requirements of Nepal, Tibet (which I treat as an independent country, though China claims it as her own), and China.

I quickly found how complicated and convoluted the information becomes once you start dealing with a politically delicate area like Tibet.

I will save what I found, and the implications, for a future post.

My VW and The Wheel Bearings of Doom

A few weeks ago, I noticed a humming noise from my car. I had forgotten about it until my friend Jason heard it on our way to see the Transformers movie last Sunday.

Being good with cars, and VW's in particular, he suggested it could be my wheel bearings, which can cost a few hundred bucks to fix (oh, and that's per bearing, of which you have four).

I scheduled a 7 AM Saturday appointment at my local dealership the next day. As it turned out, my rear wheel bearings needed to be replaced, which cost $905.

Coughing up that much money on a car I plan to sell in four months was unpleasant. And it came on the heels of $600 in unexpected dental costs a few days earlier. While the repairs occurred, I took a free shuttle to the local metro and went home.

I worked out that if I limit myself to one vacation day per month in the future, I can resign with three weeks of vacation (versus my initial goal of two). This should allow me to make up most of my unforeseen expenses this past week.

For the record, I stand by my decision to buy a used car in April 2005; however, as you can see below, car ownership is costly:

$200 - winter 2005 - broken plastic along windshield lets water drain down on driver side; carpet must be removed to clean out the ice that formed.
$550 - Oct 2006 - replaced full (fancy performance) set of tires due to dry rot and cracking after only 10,000 to 12,000 miles.
$150 - March 2007 - replaced one cracked rim (discovered when tires were replaced).
$275 - July 2007 - replaced windshield due to rogue rock on a highway.
$905 - July 2007 - replaced rear wheel bearings.
$2,080 in total repairs over 17,000 miles/two years and three months.

I also decided it was prudent to skip the DC United game I was going to see last night. I watched it on TV instead. Since the only available seats for the next MLS home game (Aug 9, w/ David Beckham) were costly and crappy, I decided to skip it. Hopefully, I can get back to a live game by Aug 22.

Strangely, I'm still not ready to cancel HBO! I must be going for the world record in "most viewings of You, Me and Dupree."

London: The Theater, Pubs, and Clubs

Thursday, August 13, 1998

I was supposed to get my laundry back today, but it got misplaced or for some reason it couldn't be found. This was a little frustrating. But, I went off anyway. I decided that while in London, I would do nothing but hang out and entertain myself. This was to be accomplished by sitting around Leicester Square and reading the "Naked Lunch." The book starts out well enough, but I'm quickly getting lost. There seems to be no order or direction to the plot.

I bought a (restricted view) ticket for "Chicago" at $15 for tonight. I finally got the nerve to go into a pub on my own. I picked the Porcupine since it looked relaxed. I was going to get dinner too, but the restaurant was still locked after 6 PM (when it said it would be open). I got a few pints and headed off to the show. My seat was at the far left of the (dress) second balcony. It wasn't that bad, actually, I just had to lean over the edge a bit. The show was kind of short, and I didn't like as many songs as I had thought (I saw a version put on at my college). Afterwards, I milled around Leicester before biting another bullet, and went into a Disco-tec.

The Equinox looked like the biggest tourist trap in London. It was situated in the center of the square. But the cover was cheap with a student ID, so I went in. The bouncers just seemed to be there for crowd control, and looks. I bought two beers at $4.50 each. I paid this for a small ass (33cl?) bottle of Molson and Foster's Ice. It was enough to boost me onto the floor, though. The bass was loud, and the dance floor large, and the green lasers were in crazy effect. I danced for about 1 ½ hours. The music was all over the place from Wyclef and Will Smith to weird stuff I didn't know. I'm not really up on my house/jungle/drum n bass lingo. There were some kids who created circles to strut their stuff. One guy did some breakin'. Though he was better than I'll ever be, he seemed to be showing off (is that the point?).

The way to approach a dancing girl seems to be the blind side, rear end approach. This is a hit and miss kind of thing. Either way, it takes more guts that I have in my abdomen (at the moment). However, by the end of the night, I was dancing around a really hot (and happy) blonde. I didn't give her much eye contact so I really didn't know if she was paying attention to me at all. Oh well, at least she was more open than a lot of the other girls. A lot of the kids there seemed to be Middle Eastern and Asian. I walked home (about 45 minutes) at 3 AM. I definitely feel safe here.

Friday, August 14, 1998

This morning I received my long lost laundry. I also found out that the $500 cash limit on my MasterCard is not about a one time withdrawal, but it's cumulative. Therefore, I transferred $1,000 from my savings to checking account, so I could access cash at the ATMs. My budget is officially blown since I crossed over to Britain. Between travel costs and the entertainment I'm taking in (and the expensive hostel I'm staying in), I'm overblown. In order to reduce the damage, I'm going to skip Scotland. That will cut out two train tickets, and give me more time in Ireland.

Today I found out that "Phantom of the Opera" is sold out for tonight and both tomorrow's shows. I went to a couple of pubs (which in turn made it easier to go to Burger King for the second day in a row), and then returned to wait in the standby line. A guy came out and said the only seats available are normally $55. I left after considering the two hour plus wait and the expense. I went and got a ticket for "Grease." The seat was upper circle (top level). It wasn't bad for $19. I could see all the stage well, and I could easily identify all the characters, and I enjoyed it. I'm looking forward to seeing a show that I don't know the plot of. I also got a ticket for tomorrow's showing of "Les Miserables." Again, it is a restricted view seat, but for only $16.

After, "Grease" I wandered around and thought about going to a club. Actually, I tried to get into the Limelight, but the bouncers stopped me due to my trainers (sneakers). After that, I thought about how I could stay out and dance and drink all night if I could just find one person to talk to. I seemed to meet so many more people in Italy, where there was none of this crazy stuff to do. Sigh.

One of the weird things about the way the English speak is their repetitiveness. For example, if you are getting off the Underground: "please watch your step, mind your step, mind the gap" etc.! And instead of "Exit" it is "Way Out." Everything seems to be supplemented with an extra thank you, caution, or apology. Sometimes, it seems very drawn out.

Apparently the hostel I stayed in, the Albert, was in a ritzy section of town (Queen's Gate). Right next door was a restaurant (bistro) that attracted wealthy customers, like tonight, the owner of a black Lamborghini Diablo.

Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

The Inspiring Lyrics of Metallica's Road Anthem

I listened to Metallica A LOT in my teens, and the following catchy lyrics still echo in my mind from time to time:

Rover wanderer
Nomad vagabond
Call me what you will

I just looked up the lyrics, and realized how suitable the song is to all travelers on the road (not just rock stars). I'm definitely putting this song on my mp3 player before departure!

Wherever I May Roam

(...And the road becomes my bride)
...And the road becomes my bride
I have stripped of all but pride
So in her I do confide
And she keeps me satisfied
Gives me all I need

...And with dust in throat I crave
Only knowledge will I save
To the game you stay a slave
Rover wanderer
Nomad vagabond
Call me what you will

But I'll take my time anywhere
Free to speak my mind anywhere
And I'll redefine anywhere
Anywhere I roam
Where I lay my head is homeYeah!!

...And the earth becomes my throne
I adapt to the unknown
Under wanderering stars I've grown
By myself but not alone
I ask no one

...And my ties are severed clean
The less I have the more I gain
Off the beaten path I reign
Rover wanderer
Nomad vagabond
Call me what you will... yeah you will

But I'll take my time anywhere
Free to speak my mind anywhere
And I'll never mind anywhere
Anywhere I roam
Where I lay my head is home.. yeah! yeah!!

Carved upon my stone
My body lie, but still I roam yeah yeah!!

A Hovercraft, The Cliffs of Dover, and "Rent"

Tuesday, August 11, 1998

I woke up and showered. I'm relegated to my long sleeve shirt until I do laundry (at a hostel in London, hopefully). I'm on the TGV to Calais, and should be there in less than two hours. I'm looking forward to the hovercraft ride. I'll just put on my headphones and rock out to the breeze, and sight of the white Cliffs of Dover. I hope I can stay at the hostel there (Dover) for a night. Otherwise, I'll have to bum rush London! Though the rest of my trip might be more expensive, everyone will speak English, so I won't have to worry about weak attempts at foreign communication. I plan on buying one souvenir, and that will be in Ireland.

When I got to the shuttle pick-up for the Hover port, no one was there, everyone was apparently taking the ferries (slower and cheaper). I like the fact that the departure information calls the trip a "flight." From the noise, I can tell I just missed the docking/entrance of the hovercraft. I heard the loud noise, but it took me a minute to realize it might be cool to watch this thing come out of the sea and onto land. I boarded, and we were off. My hopes of seeing the white cliffs were blurred by the salty (grimy) sea water that soiled the windows. Anyway, take off was cool, with the inflation and all. The trip was really smooth, and we were cruising at 50 miles per hour. 35 minutes later, we had docked in Dover. Right away, I saw the castle and cliffs.

I got to the hostel and dropped my things off. I went to Dover castle for the afternoon. The weather was nice and cool, the views were great. There was even a beach, which made me think of Eric (he always wanted to go to the beach). The tour of the underground (WWII) caves and hospitals was a bit campy, with lots of laser tripped audio clips, but everyone seemed to realize this and enjoy it. So far, the English seem to be very friendly. And, they bear more resemblance to Americans (or the other way around) than any other European country I've been to. This must be due to their diet of meat and mayonnaise. You only get one chance to make a first impression, and Dover has made me really excited for the end third of my trip. Oh yeah, I finished "On the Road" and it had kind of a sad ending.

Wednesday, August 12, 1998

I hopped on a 9 AM train to London since my dorm mates had managed to wake me up early. The trip was kind of short. As we entered London, some kids threw two rocks at the train. One of them flew through an open window, and the other hit a window, shattering it. Nobody was hurt, and everybody seemed to take it in stride. Before we got off the train, one lady released her frustration orally for a bit. I got on the Underground quickly, and was off to my reserved hostel room. The entrance was just like the description in "Let's Go," yet I'm kind of pissed off that I haven't been staying in hostels where you can buy beer and/or there is a more sociable common room. Anyway, I took a shit in the bathroom, and the toilet was clogged/broken. Then I left.

I went to Leicester Square, where I bought a half priced ticket for Buddy (Holly) at $22. Then, I noticed there was a matinee showing of "Rent" today. I dashed over to the theater and got a ticket right before it started ($12). When the characters began to come on, I immediately began to like the show. The music was loud; it was raw, long, and great. Plus, it was sad, and the end offered hope! I like Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square. This city is great! It reminds me of New York City, except there are no skyscrapers. Plus, the cops don't even carry guns, so it is safe to assume the criminals don't have them either. I feel quite safe here. Maybe it is because no matter how lost I get, I still speak the language. I bought two books, "Naked Lunch" by Burroughs and a collection of Edgar Allen Poe's stories.

My seat for "Buddy" was up on the dress circle (first balcony), about five to ten rows back. The view was good, but it made me appreciate my position for "Rent" even more (stall - ground floor, 8-10 rows back, and 5 right from the center aisle). Both theaters were small. I was especially amazed at the choreography developed for the "Rent" set. "Buddy" used mostly moving platforms. It was like watching the movie and having a live cover band do the songs. Well, it was entertaining.

I hung out in Piccadilly Circus afterwards. There, I saw some guy abusing this girl - grabbing her, slapping her , running after her. Though everyone was watching (hundreds of people), the guy didn't seem to notice. He looked kind of respectable in a suit. Eventually, they crossed the road to the punk/youth side. She was yelling by now, and once dragged her fingernails down his face (in an attempt to scratch his eyes I assume). A bunch of fire tossing/eating mohawk'ed street performers held the guy up, and allowed the girl time to escape. It was kind of sad. That guy was a dick.

I Will Miss The Little Things

Every day it's a-gettin' closer, Goin' faster than a roller coaster -- Buddy Holly

While Buddy sang those lyrics about love, I hum them as the countdown to my departure continues.

Perhaps it's the 5-day weekend I just enjoyed, which resulted in a 2-day work week, that has me skipping down the bunny trail.

It feels great to wake up each day and recognize I'm that much closer to leaving. Everything seems to be going according to plan (knock on wood).

At the same time, I'm increasingly conscious of the little things I'll miss, and I'm trying to enjoy them a little more as a result:

Asking for advice from my parents
Cooking the occasional fancy dinner (such as Smoked Duck Breasts w/Orange Ancho Chile Sauce)
My heavenly bed, sheets, and pillows (I know all too well what awaits me in the hostels)
Driving my turbo VW
Watching the gradual changing of the seasons
Being around when my parents sell their house and leave Virginia (next year)
Hanging out with my friends
Taking 3 hours to write a single blog post
New season of Lost
Knowing the location of everything at my regular grocery store
Cheering for my home team, DC United (now leading the Eastern Division of MLS!)

Check Out My First TV Interview!

During the Summer of 2006, I was developing my rough 'round the world itinerary and budget using Microsoft Excel.

I posted my spreadsheet on the BootsnAll message boards to get some feedback.

Soon after, I was contacted by Jessie, one of the website moderators. She indicated Wendy Rieger of the NBC News affiliate in Washington, DC was interested in speaking with me about a story she was putting together.

I contacted her after some initial reservations about blowing my cover at work, and a few weeks later, she met me at my apartment with a cameraman to do the interview.

The recorded Q&A lasted about 10 minutes, however true to her word, she only used about 15-30 seconds of it!

The interview aired in early October 2006, and a few of my current and former coworkers saw it (and not-so-subtly) and asked me about it in the office.

I acknowledged it, though didn't put a time frame around when I planned to leave.

I am appropriately labeled as "Future Traveler" in the video. Enjoy!

Drafting My Will, Financial Power of Attorney, and More

The first time I recall my parents mentioning their Will was before a trip to Alaska to celebrate their 25th wedding anniversary.

My Dad had written up a list of instructions for what to do if their plane were to go down. I remember trying to play it off and not think about the possibility. Luckily, the trip went like clockwork, though they've reminded me of the list ever since.

Last Will and Testament (photo: Melinda Gimpel)

I am now in uncharted territory, having very little debt and a lot of savings. As a result, and in the event narco-terrorists or a gonzo sting ray knocks me off, I decided it would be prudent to draft a Will before leaving the country.

In addition, I wanted to give my Mom Financial Power of Attorney so she could act on my behalf (such as being able to deposit money into my accounts, cash checks, help me with my taxes, etc.).

Rounding out the legal trifecta would be an Advance Medical Directive in case I end up in a vegetative state someday.

Initially, I expected to have to hire a lawyer to help me draft all of these legal documents. However, my Dad suggested I could find standard legal documents online.

A few Google searches led me to discover Quicken Willmaker Plus, which would allow me to create all the documents independently for less than $50. I bought the software and spent this past Sunday afternoon filling out the questionnaires for each document.

The software leads me through each step in easy-to-understand yet detailed language. Since I do not have a printer, I downloaded some freeware to "print" the documents into PDF files.

It took a little extra time, as I had to play with the margins to ensure the page breaks were in the right place (as the documents can be rendered null and void if things don't line up correctly).

I'd estimate it took a few hours. I have a small family, and being single, without children or real estate, I could skip many questions.

My parents are reviewing the documents, as I named them my agents and executors. If they sign off, I need to round up witnesses and a notary to make it all official.

Surprisingly, I hit this drab task head-on while I've managed to put off updating my resume for five years! Go figure.

Wanderlust and Lipstick: The Essential Guide for Women Traveling Solo

When author Beth Whitman generously offered to send me a copy of her new book, Wanderlust and Lipstick: The Essential Guide for Women Traveling Solo, it took me a few days to respond.

After all, a guide geared toward women with "lipstick" in the title is the last book I would naturally pull from the shelves of my local Barnes and Noble.

Being the crazy risk-taker that I am, I ultimately accepted, and it arrived in the mail a week later.

An overwhelming sense of curiosity leads me to open the book the same day I received it (a rarity for me).

I quickly realized all of my (too embarrassing to mention) stereotypes about a guide for women travelers were unfounded.

Beth weaves lessons learned from her own extensive travel experience with anecdotes from other women travelers of all ages.

The result is a very inspiring read, regardless of one's gender.

Chapters cover everything from the reasons a person should travel solo (with the first reason being my personal favorite, "freedom") to handling the reverse culture shock of coming home after a trip (hint: find a friend willing to listen to your travel tales).

Beth's writing style, combined with the layout of the text, allow for even a slow reader like myself to make quick work of the 250 pages.

Published in March 2007, the guide is full of more than 150 websites covering almost all possible travel topics.

Web referrals range from the well known, such as Flickr (photo storage), to the moderately known Globalfreeloaders (social network for travelers), to the downright strange, Onderwear (disposable underwear).

Judging from the amount of ink I spent on the pages of Wanderlust and Lipstick, I can confidently say there are valuable tips for seasoned travelers, as well as newbies. Among my favorites, are the following:

Write down the name, address, and phone number of your accommodation in case you get lost, or a taxi driver cannot understand you.
Eat your big meal at lunch, when you're more comfortable eating alone (also cheaper, and allows more time in the day to burn calories).
Use a messenger bag instead of a regular backpack during the day to appear less attractive to thieves.
Take travel warnings with a grain of salt. Bali was listed by the US as unsafe after the 2002 bombings, yet the US government encouraged to travel to New York City after 9/11.

If you are looking for a great inspirational read with practical tips, I recommend picking up a copy of Wanderlust and Lipstick before your next trip.

_______

Wanderlust and Lipstick: The Essential Guide for Women Traveling Solo by Beth Whitman is available through Amazon.com for $12.21. Beth also publishes a companion web site, Wanderlust and Lipstick.

Q2 Savings Update For My Trip Around the World

Yesterday was the last day of the second financial quarter of 2007.

More importantly, it was another benchmark date in evaluating my progress toward saving for my upcoming world travels!

According to my savings plan, I was $1,112 short of where I wanted to be as of December 31, 2006.

Six months later, I am excited to be ahead by $1,790.

While I fell far short of my goal for money in the ING Direct high-interest savings account, it was the direct result of a change in strategy.

Early in 2007, I decided to siphon more of my paycheck into purchasing my employer's stock (at a 15% discount).

I've been putting 12% of my post-tax, biweekly pay into that plan, which keeps it safe from my impetuous spending habits.

As a result, I saw a $2,902 net gain, despite assuming the cost of an unforeseen dental implant.

It would've been more, had my employer's stock price not dropped $5/share in the past month.

As a result of some investor confidence issues, the share price has become more volatile, and I do not see that changing in the latter half of the year.

I am trying to decide whether I should cash out my shares now, and be happy with the concrete 15% return (and accept the higher capital gains tax), or let it ride (and potentially pay less in taxes, and earn a higher return, though risk a lower one all the same).

I am leaning toward cashing out so I can put the money in my ING account and start earning interest, which would negate my expected tax liability.

I would also worry a lot less in the coming months.

The Louvre, Chartres, and a Royal With Cheese

Sunday, August 9, 1998

I woke up this morning with a need to get myself out of Paris. Unfortunately, my best option was the budget travel offices which were conveniently closed on Sundays. This means I'll have to stay another night. Then, I'm hoping to take the train to Calais, France and the ferry to Dover, England. Those white Cliffs of Dover better be great! Right before I woke up this morning, I dreamed I was pissing. I woke up to find I had relieved myself in bed. I had wet my underwear, sleep sack, and even the mattress a little. Thank God I wasn't wearing my shorts, they smell bad enough as it is.

I went to the Louvre today. I felt like a real insider when I entered through the metro entrance. It was only about a ten minute air-conditioned wait. Once inside, I was overwhelmed with the size of the museum. I decided to only see the paintings. By the end, there were only fifteen to twenty paintings that I thought were worth the trip. They were by Delacroix, Gericault, Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Vermeer, and a few others. The "Mona Lisa" was encased in a bullet proof glass case. I decided to move in for a closer look, and was appalled at the people. They were just taking pictures, and videos, without even spending a second to look at the painting. I can't even imagine how poorly the pictures would come out anyway (with the reflection of the glass and flashes). Ironically, right outside that room were four more da Vinci's being paid practically no attention (and there are only 17 in the world). Overall, I enjoyed the Uffizzi and the Museo d'Orsay more.

Sam and Dave should be flying home right now. Apparently all the Parisians are on vacation right now. The beggars here all seem to be women in robes with babies. It seems awful for the children. They are being used so badly. I went to Notre Dame around 3 PM, but services were still going on so I couldn't really walk around, plus it was really crowded. The whole front facade was under scaffolding too. I climbed the stairs of the Eiffel Tower only to find out the elevator to the summit was having technical difficulties. I watched the Parisian sunset from the second level. Now I'm down on the grass (park), writing. I kind of wish I had met someone for a picnic. The view of the Tower is picture perfect right now. I wish I didn't have to stay another night. Oh well, I'm going to leave Tuesday, no matter what.

Monday, August 10, 1998

Today I made it downstairs for breakfast at about 9 AM. I was really only interested in the hot chocolate, but they had some type of cornbread that was really good too. After drinking two cups of hot chocolate, I started to feel the weird after effect. I'll probably just have one tomorrow. So I set out to try and find a budget travel office to buy a hovercraft ticket from. I spent 1 ½ hours walking all over. Then, I went to a pay phone and bought the ticket over the phone (which I could have done from the hostel). So I'm definitely learning my lessons the hard way.

Now I'm on a train to Chartres. Only a few windows are open, and I'm not near them. It is bloody hot! And, I'm really starting to stink between the heat and my dirty clothes. Chartres Cathedral was so dark and cool, it felt air-conditioned. The only source of light was the numerous stained glass windows. I took the tour with Malcolm Miller (scholar, author). I probably could have tagged around without paying, but I'm too honest. Today is supposed to be the hottest day in the past hundred years for this region of France, 106 degrees Fahrenheit. I know its hot (but I can't tell if it is to that degree). I got my hovercraft ticket, but the pressure is on to find out when a train leaves for Calais (the departure point).

I got the ticket to Calais quite easily, then I was feeling happy. I went to the McDonald's across the street and got my McRoyal with cheese. I felt like a jolly American again. I also felt like I was in a "Pulp Fiction" dialog. Either way, I didn't feel witty. I went down to the bathroom, and realized (at the urinal) that I was standing in a pool of piss. I moved my business to the toilet, and got out of there. Back to the hostel. My new roommates were all American girls except for one French guy. The Texan girl mentioned her boyfriend before I even realized I liked her. Well, I enjoyed talking to her. Four beers later, I was asleep.

Gadget Talk - $20 MP3 Player and Kingston TravelLite SD Reader

On March 11, 2007, I asked the gadget gurus of the BootsnAll message boards for some feedback on how much "cool" gear is too much for long term travel.

One of the suggestions I got back was the $20 Empress MP3 player.

Basically, you store your MP3's on an SD flash memory card, and the player reads the music off of it. T

he appeal is the low investment, and lack of attention it would draw from would-be thieves.

The downside is you wouldn't be able to organize music in folders or have some of the advanced functionality other players offer.

I'm leaning toward a slightly fancier, 4 gig player, however, it's nice to know you have options.

Another suggestion was to get a card reader which basically allows you to forego the USB cable which comes with your digital camera.

I just bought a Kingston TravelLite SD/MMC Reader (with 2 gb SD card) from Amazon.com for $24.99 (plus shipping).

For some reason, I thought a 2 gig flash memory card would be three times more expensive. Just goes to show how little attention I've been paying to tech stuff lately.

The reader and memory arrived in the mail today. It's definetly light, as the name implies.

Now I know why it was so inexpensive ($10 by itself), it's just a piece of cheap plastic that connects the memory to a USB plug.

I'm fairly certain I could chuck it across the room and not be too concerned with it breaking.

Picking a Trek: Annapurna Circuit v. Everest Base Camp

If I recall correctly, the last time I hiked for more than a few hours in a day was when I was 13. I had signed up for a two-day (one-night), 15-mile hike along the Appalachian Trail through the sleep-away camp in New Jersey, where I had spent a handful of Summers.

Mount Everest (photo: lutz6078 from Pixabay). — Mount Everest (photo: lutz6078 from Pixabay)

Fast forward 15 years, and I'm researching three-week treks through the Himalayas. I'm asking a lot of questions. Trekking companies in Nepal are a dime a dozen. Luckily, I learned about Karnali Excursions during the Adventure Expo I attended earlier this year.

I'm going to step out on a limb and suggest if a trekking company from Nepal can represent itself at a table for a weekend in Washington, DC, they must be doing something right (from a money/success standpoint, not necessarily that there are qualifications to be a part of the event).

After reading the informative Trekking in Nepal book and reviewing the treks on Karnali's website, I began to correspond with them via e-mail.

I obtained trek prices in Nepal's two most popular regions: the Annapurna Circuit ($1,349) and Everest Base Camp ($1,699).

Both cover 25-26 days in total, entailing 20 days of "moderate to strenuous" trekking with a guide and porter. The prices include transport to and from Kathmandu airport, accommodations, meals, and a tour of local sites when I first arrive.

The Annapurna Circuit is Nepal's most popular trek. As a result, it would have more accouterments (and by that, I'm talking filtered water at teahouses to save you some effort, not even porcelain toilets), be a little safer, and be more populated with other trekkers.

The Mt. Everest region is the second most popular area for trekking. It is more rugged, challenging, and less populated. Both would get me up to about 15,000 feet in elevation.

Given my desire to stick to a budget and lack of trekking and high-altitude experience, I intend to book a trek around the Annapurna Circuit. Still, the idea of seeing Mt. Everest in person (albeit from very far away) sits idly in the back of my mind, taunting me. *Snap out of it, Dave*

So the Karnali guys have helped put many of my concerns about fitness (or lack thereof) and altitude sickness to relative rest. For example, when I asked whether they carried a Gamow Bag, the response was that it was only for higher-altitude treks like those in Tibet. However, they would pack one at my request.

I e-mailed one of their references, Mary, who had spent several years in Nepal with Habitat for Humanity. During her time there, she arranged dozens of treks through Karnali and gave a resoundingly positive endorsement.

I still intend to check around with other companies to see what is out there. However, Karnali has set the bar high so far.

A Return To Venice

Sunday, August 2, 1998

I woke up this morning with the realization that me and my New Zealand girl would part.

I'm on a five-hour train to Venice filled with reserve seats; therefore, I'm on a small chair in the aisle for the first time.

I'm slightly worried about getting a room at a hostel in Venice.

I think I spied a pickpocket attempt as I was waiting for the train to leave, though I can't be sure.

The guy knew I saw him and retreated, whether or not he was a robber. When I got to Venice, I made the amateur mistake of not calling ahead to the hostel.

Instead, I took my backpack and went on a two-hour journey around Venice, only to find out that the Ostello Venezia was full. This turned out to be a good thing.

It had a nice view, but it was on an island, and I'd need to be back by 9:30 PM (the last Vaporetto).

So I went to my second choice, a hotel two minutes from the train station.

There, I immediately met Beth (Canadian). We both took 25,000 lire dorm beds in the attic.

I met two Kiwis (New Zealanders), Nigel and Dawn. We ended up going out to dinner together.

They liked their Bailey's Irish Cream. I was happy when we all agreed on a second carafe of wine.

That night, we all got drunk, including one guy from Japan to whom Steph (an Australian guy) kept giving wine and beer.

I decided to stay a second night since I had met so many people.

Monday, August 3, 1998

I slept in this morning. Since I passed out, I didn't notice whether or not it was hot and stuffy in the room.

Beth, Steph, and I went to San Marco. The church (mosaic) was much brighter (more lit up with sunshine) than when I had gone before.

This gave me a greater appreciation for the artwork covering the walls, ceiling, and floor.

Then we went to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, where we found an amazing collection of Modern art, including Picasso, Pollack, Ernst, Brancusi, and many others.

My favorite was a painting by Picasso, "The Beach" or something like that.

And since Sam told me Heather (of my graduating class, '98) was working there, I asked around for her.

Before we left, I spotted her. I had a more extended conversation with her at that time than at all of Colgate University.

Anyway, she seemed happy to see me. I asked her a lot of questions about her job.

I'll probably apply, but if they only accept ten percent of applicants, I'm not going to expect the job. It would be cool.

Heather also mentioned another girl from my class that was going to be working there in the Fall.

Maybe the Colgate connection will balance my lack of foreign languages and bad grades.

I'm at Lido again. Though the sun was behind clouds earlier, it has broken through and is beaming down onto me.

I realized this morning that my sunburn (from Rome) is kind of bad, so I need to be careful since I'm going to the French Riviera and Spain next.

After that, I'll be beach/heat-free again. Mint slushies suck. Limone! We had dinner along the main street of Lido. I had pasta that wasn't fully cooked.

That night we all bought wine and got drunk again. There were several new people in our hotel attic when we got back.

One of them was a California teacher (age 26) who talked and talked. But she was kind of good-looking.

There was also an 18-year-old guy from Queens, NY, and a guy from upstate NY.

When we went to get more wine, we were up-sold on two bottles, and I paid the difference (in part because I was drunk). They were awful! I ended up disliking both.

That night, as we all slipped in the door at curfew, the old lady said she was closing the dorm tomorrow because we were all too loud and troublesome.

The following day, I woke up to find that it had been merely a threat, and several people had already booked for that night.

Tuesday, August 4, 1998

Today, I plan to hang out at San Marco and visit San Giorgio Maggiore and San Statue.

I went to the supermarket and bought shampoo and soap since I left my Campsuds in Rome.

It is another cloudy day here, and the temperature is much cooler than when I was here last (a week ago).

I'm sad to be leaving Italy, but my experience with budget traveling gives me great hope for a return in the next few years.

Everyone seems to harp about Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera.

I decided not to go for that reason. I am hoping to hit Marseilles, Bordeaux, and Burgundy (wine country) in France.

Well, maybe not. I just finished talking with a Dutch student who didn't endorse those areas very much.

We had a pleasant twenty-minute conversation in the park next to San Marco.

I was sitting under a trellis work of shade-providing vines. They broke up the sunlight quite beautifully.

I can't remember if I wrote this before, but I dumped my Thrasher and long sleeve WRCU shirts. I feel like taking a nap but am slightly worried about my stuff.

I'm sitting in the shade of the Campo Della Salute on the Grand Canal now.

I keep thinking about Venice's 75,000 person population compared to the 75 million visitors it gets each year.

That means everyone working lives here, and everyone walking around is a tourist. I'm having lots of fun roasting Dave, Eric, and Sam for leaving early.

Everyone I tell gasps in disbelief. I'm having so much fun and am already looking to travel more.

I finally got to see San Giorgio Maggiore up close. It took a while for me to figure out that I needed to transfer Vaporetto.

Though I prefer the facade's beauty to the interior, it was still worth the trip over to the island. I got a great view of San Marco and the islands from the belfry.

I just took the worst shit in a McDonald's bathroom near San Marco.

The other toilets must have been broken because there was a five to six-person line of guys and girls when I got out.

And I was sweating since the bathroom was so stuffy, and the light was a big fluorescent black light. I even had to touch my ass down on the bare bowl because I got tired of standing (there was no seat).

Right now, I'm praying that the night train to Nice goes well. I called home and talked to my Mom for about ten minutes.

From across the Atlantic, she sounded a lot like her mom (my grandmother).

Do I Want To Attend The 2008 Olympics in China?

It is hard for me to ignore the fact that I will likely be on the Asian continent around the time of the 2008 Summer Olympics in China (August 8-24, 2008). I haven't really given the idea of attending any of the events much thought. It would be awesome to catch a few soccer (football) matches, however I imagine it would be costly and crowded in and around Beijing.

While it might not match the atmosphere of a live event, I'm sure travelers from around the world would get together to watch events in bars or restaurants so they can cheer for their home country.

Has anyone out there attended a Summer Olympics before, or have an opinion on the topic?

Immunizations, Vaccines, and Shots (Oh My!)

I was sitting in the waiting room of SmarTravel International Health Services yesterday during my lunch break when a bit of trepidation came over me.

The prospect of needles jabbing my arm didn't bother me so much as the feeling that I'm 5 months from leaving my life in the United States behind for the great unknown.

While I spend hours daydreaming for every few minutes I feel anxious, the concern always seems to weigh heavier.

So I filled out the necessary paperwork, as I've done the past two years when getting ready for pre-travel inoculations, and attached my laundry list of countries before handing everything back to the receptionist.

She was a little taken aback, though quite positive about my travel plans.

I then waited patiently for about a half-hour, despite the lack of patients, as I assumed they were querying and printing off the recommendations for each country.

Eventually, one of the nurses called me back, and she was also a bit tickled by the opportunity to tackle such an uncommon case as mine.

She began to go through the list of potential maladies, counting up the number of countries per illness to get a feel for which immunizations would be worth recommending.

A nice benefit of having had a recent trip to Costa Rica was the shots I had already received (covered by my health insurance).

2005 -

Hepatitis A (x2) @ $80 per dose - good for 20 years
Oral Typhoid @ $80 - good for 5 years
Tetanus/Diphtheria @ $50 - good for 10 years

Ultimately, to fill in the blanks on my yellow International Certificate of Vaccination card, she suggested the following:

2007 -

Yellow Fever @ $98 - good for 10 years (required in some countries on my list, specifically Tanzania, Brazil, Peru, Colombia, and Panama)
Japanese Encephalitis (x3) @ $148 per dose - good for 2-3 years
Hepatitis B (x3) @ $80 per dose - good for 20 years
Meningitis @ $125 - good for 3 years
Influenza (Flu) @ $0 if offered as usual through my employer - good for 1 year

After looking at the price sheet, and taking the advice of one of my readers to spread the shots out over time, I kept to my plan of starting the course of Hepatitis B shots (only) during the visit.

Researching the wide array of debilitating and deadly diseases in the world is a rather drab affair. Ultimately, deciding which shots to get is about managing risk.

SmarTravel offers an interactive map which highlights parts of the world affected by many of the diseases I've mentioned in this post.

As a result, I'm planning to skip the Japanese Encephalitis given it's limited to eastern Asia, and Meningitis which is prevalent in an even smaller section of central Africa.

At this point, I'm going to do a little more reading on the BootsnAll message boards and CDC, though I'm fairly comfortable with my decision.

In addition to Hep-B, I'm going to get the Yellow Fever, Influenza, and (adult) Polio shots in a few months.

Once I've been stuck like a pincushion, I should only have to worry about tackling Malaria.

I've ruled out Malarone as it's taken daily. I've had no side effects with the weekly Chloroquine, however much of Asia, Africa, and South America is resistant to it.

As a result, I'm left with Mefloquine (Lariam), which carries some nasty potential side effects, such as "nausea, dizziness, insomnia, strange dreams, nightmares, depression, and anxiety."

The Malaria debates are frequent on travel message boards, and I've read many travelers' comments about skipping malaria pills in favor of managing the mosquito risks.

The one question I did ask at the travel clinic nurse was whether there are potential side effects to taking malaria medications long term (say weekly for 2 years).

The response from the clinic director was "no" and that many international volunteers, such as those in the Peace Corps, take them regularly for their full commitments abroad.

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Top 10 Travel Tips (circa 1999)

I first shared my Top 10 Travel Tips on the World Wide Web in 1999 after having spent the prior Summer in Europe.

Some of the advice I had read beforehand (thanks Rough Guides First-Time Europe), and the rest was based on my experience (in some cases having not done what I'm suggesting below).

Nine years later, I still aim to remember these concepts while traveling (please take the exact wording with a grain of youthful salt)...

1. Positive Attitude - No matter what happens on your trip, it is your story to tell. Don't let bad incidents ruin your whole experience. Don't let others bring you down. You worked hard to get to this point, and you deserve to enjoy it.

2. Patience - You will not make every train, bus, ferry, and airplane. Instead of getting angry, take the time to explore your surroundings, get a cup of European coffee. You will have to wait, but at least you are waiting in some exotic country!

3. Pack Light - Make sure your pack can fit on the plane as carry-on luggage. If it is too big, take things out. Never take clothing to Europe that you wouldn't be willing to throw out along the way (ex: bring old clothes).

4. Talk to People - Start talking to strangers on the plane trip, and don't stop till you are home again. You will be very lonely if you do not allow yourself the chance to meet new people. You especially need to do this if you are traveling with a friend.

5. Keep a Journal - You will learn a lot about yourself on this journey. Document what you see and who you meet. Make writing in it a habit from the first day, and don't be lazy. You will appreciate your efforts in ten or twenty years.

6. Take Pictures - Bring home the proof that you went cliff diving. No matter what kind of photographer you are, pictures you take mean a lot more than postcards and books. And take more pictures of people rather than objects. Or combine them.

7. Be Flexible - No matter how long you are gone, and what you see, there will always be new places to go. Allow room in your schedule to follow up on travel leads gained on the road.

8. Be Independent - If you think you are unable to go to Europe alone, GO! If you are traveling with a friend, do things by yourself too. Time apart will reduce stress in the relationship and open you up to the people around you.

9. Be Confident - Always maintain confidence in your ability to get from one place to another, whether across the continent or the city. Even if you don't know what you are doing, confidence can cover this up. You will appear strong and driven. Note, this is a great way to deter thieves.

10. Be Yourself - You will meet a lot of people on your trip. Be yourself, and allow them to enjoy the company of a great guy/girl.

Do you have a travel philosophy not listed here? If so, please share for the benefit of all!

The Vatican, And The Angel Sleeping Next To Me

View from Atop St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican

The following journal entry was written on Saturday, August 1, 1998:

Today, I woke up early to get to the Vatican before any lines formed. Well, there ended up being no wait at the church or the museums. The walk across Rome to the Vatican City only took about 50 minutes. The piazza and colonnade seemed much smaller than I had thought after seeing so many pictures. The longer I walked around it, though, the bigger it seemed. The church didn't seem too impressive from the outside, maybe because the entire front facade was under scaffolding.

Once inside, however, the magnitude of the art and architecture became obvious. The floor designs in marble, the size of the statues and the Baldaccino, and ceiling mosaics were indescribable. I couldn't even take a picture for it would be impossible to capture the experience. The rays of light that came through the glass were very spiritual. Michelangelo's "Pieta" was beautiful, so delicate (behind the bulletproof glass). I paid the money to see the Treasury. I also went to the cupola. The view did not compare to that of the Duomo's in Florence.

I'm sitting along the colonnade right now. Just a few minutes ago, a damn pigeon shit on me. Luckily, there was a toilette ten meters away. The Vatican Museums were most impressive. The walls and ceilings in the Geography room were cool. Raphael's room had scaffolding on one side, covering ⅓ of the "School of Athens." That was disappointing.

The Sistine Chapel was quite crowded. Once again, I didn't think pictures could capture the beauty and color of the newly restored paintings. Plenty of people were taking flash pictures despite the constant warnings not to. I found this renegade attitude careless (then again, I might be coming off as a hypocrite or elitist). Do they know the flashes contribute to the deterioration of frescoes?

I will probably stay in Rome for a second full day, especially since my roomies are friendly and cute. Too bad I chickened out and did not ask to go to the Vatican with the two girls that I knew had the exact same plans as I did (I just had to be anal about getting there early). I'm starting to get concerned about my illness. I've been seeing blood in my mucous, which has remained a dark yellow. I haven't gone to a doctor because I don't seem to have a fever or other threatening symptoms. Rome is tiring and I'll probably stay in again tonight.

I went to the supermarket, where I bought two comfortable pairs of Italian boxers and a 1.5-liter water bottle for about twenty-five cents. Obviously, that is the best deal around. I also went to the Castile de'Saint Angelo. I've got quite a sunburn on my face. I plan to sleep in tomorrow and then go see a few sights. Then, on to Venice Monday morning or maybe Verona. I messed up on paying for my bed tonight and was lucky to retain my bed for the night. This was the first week I was on budget ($50 per day). I think from now on, I'll be under budget.

I've decided to leave Rome after only two nights. My New Zealand girl is going, and I saw most of what I came to visit, plus the city is too big. Back to Venice for two or three nights, then Nice, Barcelona, Ireland, England, Paris, and hopefully Amsterdam and Copenhagen.

I loved the way (Ms. New Zealand, since I never learned her name) she said "Kerouac," Her kiwi-flavored accent must have won me over. She had an incredible lightness about her. I couldn't spend another night in Rome without the promise of her smile.

It turned out that I had dinner with about fifteen new arrivals in the pension. We went to San Paulo Restaurante where someone who had arrived earlier cut a deal: no 15% service charge, 1 pasta dish or pizza (no fish), and one beer, wine, or soda plus bread. As I sat there for two hours listening to two conversations at once, I thought about how much nicer the picnic at the Trevi Fountain would have been that night (with the Aussie and Kiwi). Damnit, that girl was great.

The dinner group went to an Irish pub a few blocks away around 12:30 AM. There, I spent $5 on a pint of Guinness that wasn't poured right (the bartenders didn't let the beer settle). I found this quite ironic (and not as tasty), considering all the Guinness propaganda hanging on the walls.

Before we had all broken up for dinner, we (my angel, the girl from New Zealand, and her sightseeing buddy, a blonde Australian girl) exchanged our feelings/amazement at St. Peter's size and grandeur. There was such excitement in the words during those few minutes. Sharing experiences such as that with someone feels like such a release and special too.

I met a lot of character types that night: the goofy Americans, the vegetarian who didn't eat her dinner cause there was meat in her meal, the frat-like French Canadian dude with all the stories, and the Argentinean girl who barely spoke English. I'm never going to forget my girl from New Zealand, though. I should have gone to Greece with her the next day.

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Read more of Backpacking in Europe, or see the pictures on Flickr.

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