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London: The Theater, Pubs, and Clubs

Thursday, August 13, 1998

I was supposed to get my laundry back today, but it got misplaced or for some reason it couldn't be found. This was a little frustrating. But, I went off anyway. I decided that while in London, I would do nothing but hang out and entertain myself. This was to be accomplished by sitting around Leicester Square and reading the "Naked Lunch." The book starts out well enough, but I'm quickly getting lost. There seems to be no order or direction to the plot.

I bought a (restricted view) ticket for "Chicago" at $15 for tonight. I finally got the nerve to go into a pub on my own. I picked the Porcupine since it looked relaxed. I was going to get dinner too, but the restaurant was still locked after 6 PM (when it said it would be open). I got a few pints and headed off to the show. My seat was at the far left of the (dress) second balcony. It wasn't that bad, actually, I just had to lean over the edge a bit. The show was kind of short, and I didn't like as many songs as I had thought (I saw a version put on at my college). Afterwards, I milled around Leicester before biting another bullet, and went into a Disco-tec.

The Equinox looked like the biggest tourist trap in London. It was situated in the center of the square. But the cover was cheap with a student ID, so I went in. The bouncers just seemed to be there for crowd control, and looks. I bought two beers at $4.50 each. I paid this for a small ass (33cl?) bottle of Molson and Foster's Ice. It was enough to boost me onto the floor, though. The bass was loud, and the dance floor large, and the green lasers were in crazy effect. I danced for about 1 ½ hours. The music was all over the place from Wyclef and Will Smith to weird stuff I didn't know. I'm not really up on my house/jungle/drum n bass lingo. There were some kids who created circles to strut their stuff. One guy did some breakin'. Though he was better than I'll ever be, he seemed to be showing off (is that the point?).

The way to approach a dancing girl seems to be the blind side, rear end approach. This is a hit and miss kind of thing. Either way, it takes more guts that I have in my abdomen (at the moment). However, by the end of the night, I was dancing around a really hot (and happy) blonde. I didn't give her much eye contact so I really didn't know if she was paying attention to me at all. Oh well, at least she was more open than a lot of the other girls. A lot of the kids there seemed to be Middle Eastern and Asian. I walked home (about 45 minutes) at 3 AM. I definitely feel safe here.

Friday, August 14, 1998

This morning I received my long lost laundry. I also found out that the $500 cash limit on my MasterCard is not about a one time withdrawal, but it's cumulative. Therefore, I transferred $1,000 from my savings to checking account, so I could access cash at the ATMs. My budget is officially blown since I crossed over to Britain. Between travel costs and the entertainment I'm taking in (and the expensive hostel I'm staying in), I'm overblown. In order to reduce the damage, I'm going to skip Scotland. That will cut out two train tickets, and give me more time in Ireland.

Today I found out that "Phantom of the Opera" is sold out for tonight and both tomorrow's shows. I went to a couple of pubs (which in turn made it easier to go to Burger King for the second day in a row), and then returned to wait in the standby line. A guy came out and said the only seats available are normally $55. I left after considering the two hour plus wait and the expense. I went and got a ticket for "Grease." The seat was upper circle (top level). It wasn't bad for $19. I could see all the stage well, and I could easily identify all the characters, and I enjoyed it. I'm looking forward to seeing a show that I don't know the plot of. I also got a ticket for tomorrow's showing of "Les Miserables." Again, it is a restricted view seat, but for only $16.

After, "Grease" I wandered around and thought about going to a club. Actually, I tried to get into the Limelight, but the bouncers stopped me due to my trainers (sneakers). After that, I thought about how I could stay out and dance and drink all night if I could just find one person to talk to. I seemed to meet so many more people in Italy, where there was none of this crazy stuff to do. Sigh.

One of the weird things about the way the English speak is their repetitiveness. For example, if you are getting off the Underground: "please watch your step, mind your step, mind the gap" etc.! And instead of "Exit" it is "Way Out." Everything seems to be supplemented with an extra thank you, caution, or apology. Sometimes, it seems very drawn out.

Apparently the hostel I stayed in, the Albert, was in a ritzy section of town (Queen's Gate). Right next door was a restaurant (bistro) that attracted wealthy customers, like tonight, the owner of a black Lamborghini Diablo.

Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Recommended Reading

In the past week, I've come across quite a few new travel blogs I am eager to share, however, I must first recognize the end of the first blog I ever read on a consistent basis.

Joe Blogs' Conclusion - Before Joe left the UK last Summer to backpack around the world, he posted an invitation to BootsnAll forum readers to check out his blog.

I decided to follow his entire trip to help me stay motivated for my own. It's amazing how time flies! 329 days to be exact, as Joe points out in his final post.

I remember eagerly reading about his first few days after he touched down in Bangkok, Thailand. I remember his feelings of loneliness in Bali, Indonesia.

I remember his steady working gigs in Australia, adventures in New Zealand, and his anticlimactic reports from Fiji and the Cook Islands.

I truly enjoyed the whole thing, was sad to see it end, and find it odd to have such feelings given I've never even met the guy!

The last eleven months have been the most eventful of my life, and at times the most enjoyable too.

I've dreamt, I've planned, I've anticipated and fulfilled something that only a handful of the world's population alive today will undertake in their lifetime.

I have experienced every emotion: happiness, sadness, joy, elation, frustration, fear, panic, bewilderment, awe, excitement, surprise --- Joe

JPony Choose My Adventure - Jeremy David is leaving on his RTW trip in 1 month 7 days. 

To quote the author with two first names, "This blog is a real-life Choose Your Own Adventure.

Tell me where to go, what to do, and vote on my life while I backpack around the world!"

Besides a great attitude towards his future travels, I really like the clean, simple theme he has going too.

Avoid Bank Feels While Traveling - This is a great post listing current fees for major credit card and banking institutions for ATM withdrawals and foreign currency transactions.

It confirmed the good things I was hearing about Capital One and E*Trade accounts. 

It is on a blog called Leave America, which is full of quality posts by expatriates abroad.

Armageddon Pills - Quick, what's the best way for a family of four to spend $121,100? Why travel around the world of course!

This site acts as a teaser for John Higham's soon to be released book by the same title.

In it, he documents his family's 52-week journey through 28 countries. That is a pace of more than 2 weeks a country, which sounds like a bit of a whirlwind.

The section entitled How to Plan A Trip Around the World contains helpful insight and advice for any traveler.

Mark and Greg's World Trip - These Aussies are old school, having taken their trip from 1998-1999, and posted it all in detail on the web, in HTML (which must've been a pain in the butt while on the road).

So far, I've only read their "Epilogue" as I'm simply struck by how much valuable info there is to go through.

The Inspiring Lyrics of Metallica's Road Anthem

I listened to Metallica A LOT in my teens, and the following catchy lyrics still echo in my mind from time to time:

Rover wanderer
Nomad vagabond
Call me what you will

I just looked up the lyrics, and realized how suitable the song is to all travelers on the road (not just rock stars).  I'm definitely putting this song on my mp3 player before departure!

Wherever I May Roam

(...And the road becomes my bride)
...And the road becomes my bride
I have stripped of all but pride
So in her I do confide
And she keeps me satisfied
Gives me all I need

...And with dust in throat I crave
Only knowledge will I save
To the game you stay a slave
Rover wanderer
Nomad vagabond
Call me what you will

But I'll take my time anywhere
Free to speak my mind anywhere
And I'll redefine anywhere
Anywhere I roam
Where I lay my head is homeYeah!!

...And the earth becomes my throne
I adapt to the unknown
Under wanderering stars I've grown
By myself but not alone
I ask no one

...And my ties are severed clean
The less I have the more I gain
Off the beaten path I reign
Rover wanderer
Nomad vagabond
Call me what you will... yeah you will

But I'll take my time anywhere
Free to speak my mind anywhere
And I'll never mind anywhere
Anywhere I roam
Where I lay my head is home.. yeah! yeah!!

Carved upon my stone
My body lie, but still I roam yeah yeah!!

A Hovercraft, The Cliffs of Dover, and "Rent"

hovercraft

Tuesday, August 11, 1998

I woke up and showered. I'm relegated to my long sleeve shirt until I do laundry (at a hostel in London, hopefully). I'm on the TGV to Calais, and should be there in less than two hours. I'm looking forward to the hovercraft ride. I'll just put on my headphones and rock out to the breeze, and sight of the white Cliffs of Dover. I hope I can stay at the hostel there (Dover) for a night. Otherwise, I'll have to bum rush London! Though the rest of my trip might be more expensive, everyone will speak English, so I won't have to worry about weak attempts at foreign communication. I plan on buying one souvenir, and that will be in Ireland.

When I got to the shuttle pick-up for the Hover port, no one was there, everyone was apparently taking the ferries (slower and cheaper). I like the fact that the departure information calls the trip a "flight." From the noise, I can tell I just missed the docking/entrance of the hovercraft. I heard the loud noise, but it took me a minute to realize it might be cool to watch this thing come out of the sea and onto land. I boarded, and we were off. My hopes of seeing the white cliffs were blurred by the salty (grimy) sea water that soiled the windows. Anyway, take off was cool, with the inflation and all. The trip was really smooth, and we were cruising at 50 miles per hour. 35 minutes later, we had docked in Dover. Right away, I saw the castle and cliffs.

I got to the hostel and dropped my things off. I went to Dover castle for the afternoon. The weather was nice and cool, the views were great. There was even a beach, which made me think of Eric (he always wanted to go to the beach). The tour of the underground (WWII) caves and hospitals was a bit campy, with lots of laser tripped audio clips, but everyone seemed to realize this and enjoy it. So far, the English seem to be very friendly. And, they bear more resemblance to Americans (or the other way around) than any other European country I've been to. This must be due to their diet of meat and mayonnaise. You only get one chance to make a first impression, and Dover has made me really excited for the end third of my trip. Oh yeah, I finished "On the Road" and it had kind of a sad ending.

White Cliffs of Dover, England

Wednesday, August 12, 1998

I hopped on a 9 AM train to London since my dorm mates had managed to wake me up early. The trip was kind of short. As we entered London, some kids threw two rocks at the train. One of them flew through an open window, and the other hit a window, shattering it. Nobody was hurt, and everybody seemed to take it in stride. Before we got off the train, one lady released her frustration orally for a bit. I got on the Underground quickly, and was off to my reserved hostel room. The entrance was just like the description in "Let's Go," yet I'm kind of pissed off that I haven't been staying in hostels where you can buy beer and/or there is a more sociable common room. Anyway, I took a shit in the bathroom, and the toilet was clogged/broken. Then I left.

I went to Leicester Square, where I bought a half priced ticket for Buddy (Holly) at $22. Then, I noticed there was a matinee showing of "Rent" today. I dashed over to the theater and got a ticket right before it started ($12). When the characters began to come on, I immediately began to like the show. The music was loud; it was raw, long, and great. Plus, it was sad, and the end offered hope! I like Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square. This city is great! It reminds me of New York City, except there are no skyscrapers. Plus, the cops don't even carry guns, so it is safe to assume the criminals don't have them either. I feel quite safe here. Maybe it is because no matter how lost I get, I still speak the language. I bought two books, "Naked Lunch" by Burroughs and a collection of Edgar Allen Poe's stories.

My seat for "Buddy" was up on the dress circle (first balcony), about five to ten rows back. The view was good, but it made me appreciate my position for "Rent" even more (stall - ground floor, 8-10 rows back, and 5 right from the center aisle). Both theaters were small. I was especially amazed at the choreography developed for the "Rent" set. "Buddy" used mostly moving platforms. It was like watching the movie and having a live cover band do the songs. Well, it was entertaining.

I hung out in Piccadilly Circus afterwards. There, I saw some guy abusing this girl - grabbing her, slapping her , running after her. Though everyone was watching (hundreds of people), the guy didn't seem to notice. He looked kind of respectable in a suit. Eventually, they crossed the road to the punk/youth side. She was yelling by now, and once dragged her fingernails down his face (in an attempt to scratch his eyes I assume). A bunch of fire tossing/eating mohawk'ed street performers held the guy up, and allowed the girl time to escape. It was kind of sad. That guy was a dick.

I Will Miss The Little Things

Every day it's a-gettin' closer, Goin' faster than a roller coaster -- Buddy Holly

While Buddy sang those lyrics about love, I hum them as the countdown to my departure continues.

Perhaps it's the 5-day weekend I just enjoyed, which resulted in a 2-day work week, that has me skipping down the bunny trail.

It feels great to wake up each day and recognize I'm that much closer to leaving. Everything seems to be going according to plan (knock on wood).

At the same time, I'm increasingly conscious of the little things I'll miss, and I'm trying to enjoy them a little more as a result:

  • Asking for advice from my parents
  • Cooking the occasional fancy dinner (such as Smoked Duck Breasts w/Orange Ancho Chile Sauce)
  • My heavenly bed, sheets, and pillows (I know all too well what awaits me in the hostels)
  • Driving my turbo VW
  • Watching the gradual changing of the seasons
  • Being around when my parents sell their house and leave Virginia (next year)
  • Hanging out with my friends
  • Taking 3 hours to write a single blog post
  • New season of Lost
  • Knowing the location of everything at my regular grocery store
  • Cheering for my home team, DC United (now leading the Eastern Division of MLS!)

Smoked Duck Breasts w/Orange Ancho Chile Sauce

Check Out My First TV Interview!

During the Summer of 2006, I was developing my rough 'round the world itinerary and budget using Microsoft Excel.

I posted my spreadsheet on the BootsnAll message boards to get some feedback.

Soon after, I was contacted by Jessie, one of the website moderators. She indicated Wendy Rieger of the NBC News affiliate in Washington, DC was interested in speaking with me about a story she was putting together.

I contacted her after some initial reservations about blowing my cover at work, and a few weeks later, she met me at my apartment with a cameraman to do the interview.

The recorded Q&A lasted about 10 minutes, however true to her word, she only used about 15-30 seconds of it!

The interview aired in early October 2006, and a few of my current and former coworkers saw it (and not-so-subtly) and asked me about it in the office.

I acknowledged it, though didn't put a time frame around when I planned to leave.

I am appropriately labeled as "Future Traveler" in the video. Enjoy!

Drafting My Will, Financial Power of Attorney, and More

The first time I recall my parents mentioning their Will was before a trip to Alaska to celebrate their 25th wedding anniversary.

My Dad had written up a list of instructions for what to do if their plane were to go down. I remember trying to play it off and not think about the possibility. Luckily, the trip went like clockwork, though they've reminded me of the list ever since.

Last Will and Testament (photo: Melinda Gimpel)
Last Will and Testament (photo: Melinda Gimpel)

I am now in uncharted territory, having very little debt and a lot of savings. As a result, and in the event narco-terrorists or a gonzo sting ray knocks me off, I decided it would be prudent to draft a Will before leaving the country.

In addition, I wanted to give my Mom Financial Power of Attorney so she could act on my behalf (such as being able to deposit money into my accounts, cash checks, help me with my taxes, etc.).

Rounding out the legal trifecta would be an Advance Medical Directive in case I end up in a vegetative state someday.

Initially, I expected to have to hire a lawyer to help me draft all of these legal documents. However, my Dad suggested I could find standard legal documents online.

A few Google searches led me to discover Quicken Willmaker Plus, which would allow me to create all the documents independently for less than $50. I bought the software and spent this past Sunday afternoon filling out the questionnaires for each document.

The software leads me through each step in easy-to-understand yet detailed language. Since I do not have a printer, I downloaded some freeware to "print" the documents into PDF files.

It took a little extra time, as I had to play with the margins to ensure the page breaks were in the right place (as the documents can be rendered null and void if things don't line up correctly).

I'd estimate it took a few hours. I have a small family, and being single, without children or real estate, I could skip many questions.

My parents are reviewing the documents, as I named them my agents and executors. If they sign off, I need to round up witnesses and a notary to make it all official.

Surprisingly, I hit this drab task head-on while I've managed to put off updating my resume for five years! Go figure.

Wanderlust and Lipstick: The Essential Guide for Women Traveling Solo

When author Beth Whitman generously offered to send me a copy of her new book, Wanderlust and Lipstick: The Essential Guide for Women Traveling Solo, it took me a few days to respond.

After all, a guide geared toward women with "lipstick" in the title is the last book I would naturally pull from the shelves of my local Barnes and Noble.

Being the crazy risk-taker that I am, I ultimately accepted, and it arrived in the mail a week later.

An overwhelming sense of curiosity leads me to open the book the same day I received it (a rarity for me).

I quickly realized all of my (too embarrassing to mention) stereotypes about a guide for women travelers were unfounded.

Beth weaves lessons learned from her own extensive travel experience with anecdotes from other women travelers of all ages.

The result is a very inspiring read, regardless of one's gender.

Chapters cover everything from the reasons a person should travel solo (with the first reason being my personal favorite, "freedom") to handling the reverse culture shock of coming home after a trip (hint: find a friend willing to listen to your travel tales).

Beth's writing style, combined with the layout of the text, allow for even a slow reader like myself to make quick work of the 250 pages.

Published in March 2007, the guide is full of more than 150 websites covering almost all possible travel topics.

Web referrals range from the well known, such as Flickr (photo storage), to the moderately known Globalfreeloaders (social network for travelers), to the downright strange, Onderwear (disposable underwear).

Judging from the amount of ink I spent on the pages of Wanderlust and Lipstick, I can confidently say there are valuable tips for seasoned travelers, as well as newbies. Among my favorites, are the following:

  • Write down the name, address, and phone number of your accommodation in case you get lost, or a taxi driver cannot understand you.
  • Eat your big meal at lunch, when you're more comfortable eating alone (also cheaper, and allows more time in the day to burn calories).
  • Use a messenger bag instead of a regular backpack during the day to appear less attractive to thieves.
  • Take travel warnings with a grain of salt. Bali was listed by the US as unsafe after the 2002 bombings, yet the US government encouraged to travel to New York City after 9/11.

If you are looking for a great inspirational read with practical tips, I recommend picking up a copy of Wanderlust and Lipstick before your next trip.

_______

Wanderlust and Lipstick: The Essential Guide for Women Traveling Solo by Beth Whitman is available through Amazon.com for $12.21. Beth also publishes a companion web site, Wanderlust and Lipstick.

Q2 Savings Update For My Trip Around the World

Yesterday was the last day of the second financial quarter of 2007.

More importantly, it was another benchmark date in evaluating my progress toward saving for my upcoming world travels!

According to my savings plan, I was $1,112 short of where I wanted to be as of December 31, 2006.

Six months later, I am excited to be ahead by $1,790.

While I fell far short of my goal for money in the ING Direct high-interest savings account, it was the direct result of a change in strategy.

Early in 2007, I decided to siphon more of my paycheck into purchasing my employer's stock (at a 15% discount).

I've been putting 12% of my post-tax, biweekly pay into that plan, which keeps it safe from my impetuous spending habits.

As a result, I saw a $2,902 net gain, despite assuming the cost of an unforeseen dental implant.

It would've been more, had my employer's stock price not dropped $5/share in the past month.

As a result of some investor confidence issues, the share price has become more volatile, and I do not see that changing in the latter half of the year.

I am trying to decide whether I should cash out my shares now, and be happy with the concrete 15% return (and accept the higher capital gains tax), or let it ride (and potentially pay less in taxes, and earn a higher return, though risk a lower one all the same).

I am leaning toward cashing out so I can put the money in my ING account and start earning interest, which would negate my expected tax liability.

I would also worry a lot less in the coming months.

The Louvre, Chartres, and a Royal With Cheese

Pyramid at the Louvre in Paris, France

Sunday, August 9, 1998

I woke up this morning with a need to get myself out of Paris. Unfortunately, my best option was the budget travel offices which were conveniently closed on Sundays. This means I'll have to stay another night. Then, I'm hoping to take the train to Calais, France and the ferry to Dover, England. Those white Cliffs of Dover better be great! Right before I woke up this morning, I dreamed I was pissing. I woke up to find I had relieved myself in bed. I had wet my underwear, sleep sack, and even the mattress a little. Thank God I wasn't wearing my shorts, they smell bad enough as it is.

I went to the Louvre today. I felt like a real insider when I entered through the metro entrance. It was only about a ten minute air-conditioned wait. Once inside, I was overwhelmed with the size of the museum. I decided to only see the paintings. By the end, there were only fifteen to twenty paintings that I thought were worth the trip. They were by Delacroix, Gericault, Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Vermeer, and a few others. The "Mona Lisa" was encased in a bullet proof glass case. I decided to move in for a closer look, and was appalled at the people. They were just taking pictures, and videos, without even spending a second to look at the painting. I can't even imagine how poorly the pictures would come out anyway (with the reflection of the glass and flashes). Ironically, right outside that room were four more da Vinci's being paid practically no attention (and there are only 17 in the world). Overall, I enjoyed the Uffizzi and the Museo d'Orsay more.

Sunset from Eiffel Tower in Paris, France

Sam and Dave should be flying home right now. Apparently all the Parisians are on vacation right now. The beggars here all seem to be women in robes with babies. It seems awful for the children. They are being used so badly. I went to Notre Dame around 3 PM, but services were still going on so I couldn't really walk around, plus it was really crowded. The whole front facade was under scaffolding too. I climbed the stairs of the Eiffel Tower only to find out the elevator to the summit was having technical difficulties. I watched the Parisian sunset from the second level. Now I'm down on the grass (park), writing. I kind of wish I had met someone for a picnic. The view of the Tower is picture perfect right now. I wish I didn't have to stay another night. Oh well, I'm going to leave Tuesday, no matter what.

Monday, August 10, 1998

Chartres Cathedral in FranceToday I made it downstairs for breakfast at about 9 AM. I was really only interested in the hot chocolate, but they had some type of cornbread that was really good too. After drinking two cups of hot chocolate, I started to feel the weird after effect. I'll probably just have one tomorrow. So I set out to try and find a budget travel office to buy a hovercraft ticket from. I spent 1 ½ hours walking all over. Then, I went to a pay phone and bought the ticket over the phone (which I could have done from the hostel). So I'm definitely learning my lessons the hard way.

Now I'm on a train to Chartres. Only a few windows are open, and I'm not near them. It is bloody hot! And, I'm really starting to stink between the heat and my dirty clothes. Chartres Cathedral was so dark and cool, it felt air-conditioned. The only source of light was the numerous stained glass windows. I took the tour with Malcolm Miller (scholar, author). I probably could have tagged around without paying, but I'm too honest. Today is supposed to be the hottest day in the past hundred years for this region of France, 106 degrees Fahrenheit. I know its hot (but I can't tell if it is to that degree). I got my hovercraft ticket, but the pressure is on to find out when a train leaves for Calais (the departure point).

I got the ticket to Calais quite easily, then I was feeling happy. I went to the McDonald's across the street and got my McRoyal with cheese. I felt like a jolly American again. I also felt like I was in a "Pulp Fiction" dialog. Either way, I didn't feel witty. I went down to the bathroom, and realized (at the urinal) that I was standing in a pool of piss. I moved my business to the toilet, and got out of there. Back to the hostel. My new roommates were all American girls except for one French guy. The Texan girl mentioned her boyfriend before I even realized I liked her. Well, I enjoyed talking to her. Four beers later, I was asleep.

Gadget Talk - $20 MP3 Player and Kingston TravelLite SD Reader

On March 11, 2007, I asked the gadget gurus of the BootsnAll message boards for some feedback on how much "cool" gear is too much for long term travel.

One of the suggestions I got back was the $20 Empress MP3 player.

Basically, you store your MP3's on an SD flash memory card, and the player reads the music off of it. T

he appeal is the low investment, and lack of attention it would draw from would-be thieves.

The downside is you wouldn't be able to organize music in folders or have some of the advanced functionality other players offer.

I'm leaning toward a slightly fancier, 4 gig player, however, it's nice to know you have options.

Kingston Travellite card reader

Another suggestion was to get a card reader which basically allows you to forego the USB cable which comes with your digital camera.

I just bought a Kingston TravelLite SD/MMC Reader (with 2 gb SD card) from Amazon.com for $24.99 (plus shipping).

For some reason, I thought a 2 gig flash memory card would be three times more expensive. Just goes to show how little attention I've been paying to tech stuff lately.

The reader and memory arrived in the mail today. It's definetly light, as the name implies.

Now I know why it was so inexpensive ($10 by itself), it's just a piece of cheap plastic that connects the memory to a USB plug.

I'm fairly certain I could chuck it across the room and not be too concerned with it breaking.

Picking a Trek: Annapurna Circuit v. Everest Base Camp

If I recall correctly, the last time I hiked for more than a few hours in a day was when I was 13. I had signed up for a two-day (one-night), 15-mile hike along the Appalachian Trail through the sleep-away camp in New Jersey, where I had spent a handful of Summers.

Mount Everest (photo: lutz6078 from Pixabay).
Mount Everest (photo: lutz6078 from Pixabay)

Fast forward 15 years, and I'm researching three-week treks through the Himalayas. I'm asking a lot of questions. Trekking companies in Nepal are a dime a dozen. Luckily, I learned about Karnali Excursions during the Adventure Expo I attended earlier this year.

I'm going to step out on a limb and suggest if a trekking company from Nepal can represent itself at a table for a weekend in Washington, DC, they must be doing something right (from a money/success standpoint, not necessarily that there are qualifications to be a part of the event).

After reading the informative Trekking in Nepal book and reviewing the treks on Karnali's website, I began to correspond with them via e-mail.

I obtained trek prices in Nepal's two most popular regions: the Annapurna Circuit ($1,349) and Everest Base Camp ($1,699).

Both cover 25-26 days in total, entailing 20 days of "moderate to strenuous" trekking with a guide and porter. The prices include transport to and from Kathmandu airport, accommodations, meals, and a tour of local sites when I first arrive.

The Annapurna Circuit is Nepal's most popular trek. As a result, it would have more accouterments (and by that, I'm talking filtered water at teahouses to save you some effort, not even porcelain toilets), be a little safer, and be more populated with other trekkers.

The Mt. Everest region is the second most popular area for trekking. It is more rugged, challenging, and less populated. Both would get me up to about 15,000 feet in elevation. 

Given my desire to stick to a budget and lack of trekking and high-altitude experience, I intend to book a trek around the Annapurna Circuit. Still, the idea of seeing Mt. Everest in person (albeit from very far away) sits idly in the back of my mind, taunting me. *Snap out of it, Dave*

So the Karnali guys have helped put many of my concerns about fitness (or lack thereof) and altitude sickness to relative rest. For example, when I asked whether they carried a Gamow Bag, the response was that it was only for higher-altitude treks like those in Tibet. However, they would pack one at my request.

I e-mailed one of their references, Mary, who had spent several years in Nepal with Habitat for Humanity. During her time there, she arranged dozens of treks through Karnali and gave a resoundingly positive endorsement.

I still intend to check around with other companies to see what is out there. However, Karnali has set the bar high so far.

A Return To Venice

View of San Marco Square
View of San Marco Square

Sunday, August 2, 1998

I woke up this morning with the realization that me and my New Zealand girl would part.

I'm on a five-hour train to Venice filled with reserve seats; therefore, I'm on a small chair in the aisle for the first time.

I'm slightly worried about getting a room at a hostel in Venice.

I think I spied a pickpocket attempt as I was waiting for the train to leave, though I can't be sure.

The guy knew I saw him and retreated, whether or not he was a robber. When I got to Venice, I made the amateur mistake of not calling ahead to the hostel.

Instead, I took my backpack and went on a two-hour journey around Venice, only to find out that the Ostello Venezia was full. This turned out to be a good thing.

It had a nice view, but it was on an island, and I'd need to be back by 9:30 PM (the last Vaporetto).

So I went to my second choice, a hotel two minutes from the train station.

There, I immediately met Beth (Canadian). We both took 25,000 lire dorm beds in the attic.

I met two Kiwis (New Zealanders), Nigel and Dawn. We ended up going out to dinner together.

They liked their Bailey's Irish Cream. I was happy when we all agreed on a second carafe of wine.

That night, we all got drunk, including one guy from Japan to whom Steph (an Australian guy) kept giving wine and beer.

I decided to stay a second night since I had met so many people.

Monday, August 3, 1998

I slept in this morning. Since I passed out, I didn't notice whether or not it was hot and stuffy in the room.

Beth, Steph, and I went to San Marco. The church (mosaic) was much brighter (more lit up with sunshine) than when I had gone before.

This gave me a greater appreciation for the artwork covering the walls, ceiling, and floor.

Then we went to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, where we found an amazing collection of Modern art, including Picasso, Pollack, Ernst, Brancusi, and many others.

My favorite was a painting by Picasso, "The Beach" or something like that.

And since Sam told me Heather (of my graduating class, '98) was working there, I asked around for her.

Before we left, I spotted her. I had a more extended conversation with her at that time than at all of Colgate University.

Anyway, she seemed happy to see me. I asked her a lot of questions about her job.

I'll probably apply, but if they only accept ten percent of applicants, I'm not going to expect the job. It would be cool.

Heather also mentioned another girl from my class that was going to be working there in the Fall.

Maybe the Colgate connection will balance my lack of foreign languages and bad grades.

I'm at Lido again. Though the sun was behind clouds earlier, it has broken through and is beaming down onto me.

I realized this morning that my sunburn (from Rome) is kind of bad, so I need to be careful since I'm going to the French Riviera and Spain next.

After that, I'll be beach/heat-free again. Mint slushies suck. Limone! We had dinner along the main street of Lido. I had pasta that wasn't fully cooked.

That night we all bought wine and got drunk again. There were several new people in our hotel attic when we got back.

One of them was a California teacher (age 26) who talked and talked. But she was kind of good-looking.

There was also an 18-year-old guy from Queens, NY, and a guy from upstate NY.

When we went to get more wine, we were up-sold on two bottles, and I paid the difference (in part because I was drunk). They were awful! I ended up disliking both.

That night, as we all slipped in the door at curfew, the old lady said she was closing the dorm tomorrow because we were all too loud and troublesome.

The following day, I woke up to find that it had been merely a threat, and several people had already booked for that night.

San Giorggio Maggiore of Venice

Tuesday, August 4, 1998

Today, I plan to hang out at San Marco and visit San Giorgio Maggiore and San Statue.

I went to the supermarket and bought shampoo and soap since I left my Campsuds in Rome.

It is another cloudy day here, and the temperature is much cooler than when I was here last (a week ago).

I'm sad to be leaving Italy, but my experience with budget traveling gives me great hope for a return in the next few years.

Everyone seems to harp about Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera.

I decided not to go for that reason. I am hoping to hit Marseilles, Bordeaux, and Burgundy (wine country) in France.

Well, maybe not. I just finished talking with a Dutch student who didn't endorse those areas very much.

We had a pleasant twenty-minute conversation in the park next to San Marco.

I was sitting under a trellis work of shade-providing vines. They broke up the sunlight quite beautifully.

I can't remember if I wrote this before, but I dumped my Thrasher and long sleeve WRCU shirts. I feel like taking a nap but am slightly worried about my stuff.

I'm sitting in the shade of the Campo Della Salute on the Grand Canal now.

I keep thinking about Venice's 75,000 person population compared to the 75 million visitors it gets each year.

That means everyone working lives here, and everyone walking around is a tourist. I'm having lots of fun roasting Dave, Eric, and Sam for leaving early.

Everyone I tell gasps in disbelief. I'm having so much fun and am already looking to travel more.

I finally got to see San Giorgio Maggiore up close. It took a while for me to figure out that I needed to transfer Vaporetto.

Though I prefer the facade's beauty to the interior, it was still worth the trip over to the island. I got a great view of San Marco and the islands from the belfry.

I just took the worst shit in a McDonald's bathroom near San Marco.

The other toilets must have been broken because there was a five to six-person line of guys and girls when I got out.

And I was sweating since the bathroom was so stuffy, and the light was a big fluorescent black light. I even had to touch my ass down on the bare bowl because I got tired of standing (there was no seat).

Right now, I'm praying that the night train to Nice goes well. I called home and talked to my Mom for about ten minutes.

From across the Atlantic, she sounded a lot like her mom (my grandmother).

Read more of Backpacking in Europe.

Do I Want To Attend The 2008 Olympics in China?

It is hard for me to ignore the fact that I will likely be on the Asian continent around the time of the 2008 Summer Olympics in China (August 8-24, 2008).  I haven't really given the idea of attending any of the events much thought.  It would be awesome to catch a few soccer (football) matches, however I imagine it would be costly and crowded in and around Beijing.

While it might not match the atmosphere of a live event, I'm sure travelers from around the world would get together to watch events in bars or restaurants so they can cheer for their home country.

Has anyone out there attended a Summer Olympics before, or have an opinion on the topic?

Immunizations, Vaccines, and Shots (Oh My!)

Vaccine Information

I was sitting in the waiting room of SmarTravel International Health Services yesterday during my lunch break when a bit of trepidation came over me.

The prospect of needles jabbing my arm didn't bother me so much as the feeling that I'm 5 months from leaving my life in the United States behind for the great unknown.

While I spend hours daydreaming for every few minutes I feel anxious, the concern always seems to weigh heavier.

So I filled out the necessary paperwork, as I've done the past two years when getting ready for pre-travel inoculations, and attached my laundry list of countries before handing everything back to the receptionist.

She was a little taken aback, though quite positive about my travel plans.

I then waited patiently for about a half-hour, despite the lack of patients, as I assumed they were querying and printing off the recommendations for each country.

Eventually, one of the nurses called me back, and she was also a bit tickled by the opportunity to tackle such an uncommon case as mine.

She began to go through the list of potential maladies, counting up the number of countries per illness to get a feel for which immunizations would be worth recommending.

A nice benefit of having had a recent trip to Costa Rica was the shots I had already received (covered by my health insurance).

2005 -

  • Hepatitis A (x2) @ $80 per dose - good for 20 years
  • Oral Typhoid @ $80 - good for 5 years
  • Tetanus/Diphtheria @ $50 - good for 10 years

Ultimately, to fill in the blanks on my yellow International Certificate of Vaccination card, she suggested the following:

2007 -

  • Yellow Fever @ $98 - good for 10 years (required in some countries on my list, specifically Tanzania, Brazil, Peru, Colombia, and Panama)
  • Japanese Encephalitis (x3) @ $148 per dose - good for 2-3 years
  • Hepatitis B (x3) @ $80 per dose - good for 20 years
  • Meningitis @ $125 - good for 3 years
  • Influenza (Flu) @ $0 if offered as usual through my employer - good for 1 year

After looking at the price sheet, and taking the advice of one of my readers to spread the shots out over time, I kept to my plan of starting the course of Hepatitis B shots (only) during the visit.

Researching the wide array of debilitating and deadly diseases in the world is a rather drab affair. Ultimately, deciding which shots to get is about managing risk.

SmarTravel offers an interactive map which highlights parts of the world affected by many of the diseases I've mentioned in this post.

As a result, I'm planning to skip the Japanese Encephalitis given it's limited to eastern Asia, and Meningitis which is prevalent in an even smaller section of central Africa.

At this point, I'm going to do a little more reading on the BootsnAll message boards and CDC, though I'm fairly comfortable with my decision.

In addition to Hep-B, I'm going to get the Yellow Fever, Influenza, and (adult) Polio shots in a few months.

Once I've been stuck like a pincushion, I should only have to worry about tackling Malaria.

I've ruled out Malarone as it's taken daily. I've had no side effects with the weekly Chloroquine, however much of Asia, Africa, and South America is resistant to it.

As a result, I'm left with Mefloquine (Lariam), which carries some nasty potential side effects, such as "nausea, dizziness, insomnia, strange dreams, nightmares, depression, and anxiety."

The Malaria debates are frequent on travel message boards, and I've read many travelers' comments about skipping malaria pills in favor of managing the mosquito risks.

The one question I did ask at the travel clinic nurse was whether there are potential side effects to taking malaria medications long term (say weekly for 2 years).

The response from the clinic director was "no" and that many international volunteers, such as those in the Peace Corps, take them regularly for their full commitments abroad.

___________________

Additional Resources: SmarTravel Profiles on 220 countries. USA Center for Disease Control - Traveler's Health section. Immunization Action Coalition - Vaccination Information for Healthcare Professionals.

Top 10 Travel Tips (circa 1999)

I first shared my Top 10 Travel Tips on the World Wide Web in 1999 after having spent the prior Summer in Europe.

Some of the advice I had read beforehand (thanks Rough Guides First-Time Europe), and the rest was based on my experience (in some cases having not done what I'm suggesting below).

Nine years later, I still aim to remember these concepts while traveling (please take the exact wording with a grain of youthful salt)...

1. Positive Attitude - No matter what happens on your trip, it is your story to tell. Don't let bad incidents ruin your whole experience. Don't let others bring you down. You worked hard to get to this point, and you deserve to enjoy it.

2. Patience - You will not make every train, bus, ferry, and airplane. Instead of getting angry, take the time to explore your surroundings, get a cup of European coffee. You will have to wait, but at least you are waiting in some exotic country!

3. Pack Light - Make sure your pack can fit on the plane as carry-on luggage. If it is too big, take things out. Never take clothing to Europe that you wouldn't be willing to throw out along the way (ex: bring old clothes).

4. Talk to People - Start talking to strangers on the plane trip, and don't stop till you are home again. You will be very lonely if you do not allow yourself the chance to meet new people. You especially need to do this if you are traveling with a friend.

5. Keep a Journal - You will learn a lot about yourself on this journey. Document what you see and who you meet. Make writing in it a habit from the first day, and don't be lazy. You will appreciate your efforts in ten or twenty years.

6. Take Pictures - Bring home the proof that you went cliff diving. No matter what kind of photographer you are, pictures you take mean a lot more than postcards and books. And take more pictures of people rather than objects. Or combine them.

7. Be Flexible - No matter how long you are gone, and what you see, there will always be new places to go. Allow room in your schedule to follow up on travel leads gained on the road.

8. Be Independent - If you think you are unable to go to Europe alone, GO! If you are traveling with a friend, do things by yourself too. Time apart will reduce stress in the relationship and open you up to the people around you.

9. Be Confident - Always maintain confidence in your ability to get from one place to another, whether across the continent or the city. Even if you don't know what you are doing, confidence can cover this up. You will appear strong and driven. Note, this is a great way to deter thieves.

10. Be Yourself - You will meet a lot of people on your trip. Be yourself, and allow them to enjoy the company of a great guy/girl.

Do you have a travel philosophy not listed here? If so, please share for the benefit of all!

The Vatican, And The Angel Sleeping Next To Me

View from Atop St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican

The following journal entry was written on Saturday, August 1, 1998:

Today, I woke up early to get to the Vatican before any lines formed. Well, there ended up being no wait at the church or the museums. The walk across Rome to the Vatican City only took about 50 minutes. The piazza and colonnade seemed much smaller than I had thought after seeing so many pictures. The longer I walked around it, though, the bigger it seemed. The church didn't seem too impressive from the outside, maybe because the entire front facade was under scaffolding.

Once inside, however, the magnitude of the art and architecture became obvious. The floor designs in marble, the size of the statues and the Baldaccino, and ceiling mosaics were indescribable. I couldn't even take a picture for it would be impossible to capture the experience. The rays of light that came through the glass were very spiritual. Michelangelo's "Pieta" was beautiful, so delicate (behind the bulletproof glass). I paid the money to see the Treasury. I also went to the cupola. The view did not compare to that of the Duomo's in Florence.

I'm sitting along the colonnade right now. Just a few minutes ago, a damn pigeon shit on me. Luckily, there was a toilette ten meters away. The Vatican Museums were most impressive. The walls and ceilings in the Geography room were cool. Raphael's room had scaffolding on one side, covering ⅓ of the "School of Athens." That was disappointing.

The Sistine Chapel was quite crowded. Once again, I didn't think pictures could capture the beauty and color of the newly restored paintings. Plenty of people were taking flash pictures despite the constant warnings not to. I found this renegade attitude careless (then again, I might be coming off as a hypocrite or elitist). Do they know the flashes contribute to the deterioration of frescoes?

Staircase to top of St. Peter's Basilica

I will probably stay in Rome for a second full day, especially since my roomies are friendly and cute. Too bad I chickened out and did not ask to go to the Vatican with the two girls that I knew had the exact same plans as I did (I just had to be anal about getting there early). I'm starting to get concerned about my illness. I've been seeing blood in my mucous, which has remained a dark yellow. I haven't gone to a doctor because I don't seem to have a fever or other threatening symptoms. Rome is tiring and I'll probably stay in again tonight.

I went to the supermarket, where I bought two comfortable pairs of Italian boxers and a 1.5-liter water bottle for about twenty-five cents. Obviously, that is the best deal around. I also went to the Castile de'Saint Angelo. I've got quite a sunburn on my face. I plan to sleep in tomorrow and then go see a few sights. Then, on to Venice Monday morning or maybe Verona. I messed up on paying for my bed tonight and was lucky to retain my bed for the night. This was the first week I was on budget ($50 per day). I think from now on, I'll be under budget.

I've decided to leave Rome after only two nights. My New Zealand girl is going, and I saw most of what I came to visit, plus the city is too big. Back to Venice for two or three nights, then Nice, Barcelona, Ireland, England, Paris, and hopefully Amsterdam and Copenhagen.

I loved the way (Ms. New Zealand, since I never learned her name) she said "Kerouac," Her kiwi-flavored accent must have won me over. She had an incredible lightness about her. I couldn't spend another night in Rome without the promise of her smile.

It turned out that I had dinner with about fifteen new arrivals in the pension. We went to San Paulo Restaurante where someone who had arrived earlier cut a deal: no 15% service charge, 1 pasta dish or pizza (no fish), and one beer, wine, or soda plus bread. As I sat there for two hours listening to two conversations at once, I thought about how much nicer the picnic at the Trevi Fountain would have been that night (with the Aussie and Kiwi). Damnit, that girl was great.

The dinner group went to an Irish pub a few blocks away around 12:30 AM. There, I spent $5 on a pint of Guinness that wasn't poured right (the bartenders didn't let the beer settle). I found this quite ironic (and not as tasty), considering all the Guinness propaganda hanging on the walls.

Before we had all broken up for dinner, we (my angel, the girl from New Zealand, and her sightseeing buddy, a blonde Australian girl) exchanged our feelings/amazement at St. Peter's size and grandeur. There was such excitement in the words during those few minutes. Sharing experiences such as that with someone feels like such a release and special too.

I met a lot of character types that night: the goofy Americans, the vegetarian who didn't eat her dinner cause there was meat in her meal, the frat-like French Canadian dude with all the stories, and the Argentinean girl who barely spoke English. I'm never going to forget my girl from New Zealand, though. I should have gone to Greece with her the next day.

________________

Read more of Backpacking in Europe, or see the pictures on Flickr.

Rome Is Too Big To Have Been Built In One Day

Coliseum in Rome, Italy

The following journal entry was written on Friday, July 31, 1998:

I met a whole bunch of friendly people last night from all over the world: Australia, Canada, England, Scotland, and Norway. The 18-year-old Scottish guy was traveling with his skateboard, so I asked him what that was like. One of the Norwegian girls was a nurse. One of the Canadians was an airplane technician/engineer.

There was a beautiful girl from Canada reading Kafka's "The Basic," and I couldn't take my eyes off her. I ended up getting a little too drunk by midnight. Instead of staying up and talking some more, I had to lie down and pass out. But you definitely meet more people traveling alone, and so far the freedom has been enjoyable.

I still have to work out some things like finding and sitting with people who speak English on the trains. This means I should be waiting a little before I get on the trains. I talked with a girl from New Hampshire who was traveling alone. She seemed to endorse hitchhiking and sleeping out (train station, beach, park). She recommended seeing "Rent" in London. I just hope "Jesus Christ Superstar" is playing. After meeting so many people at the Ostello, I was kind of disappointed that I had to leave.

I started reading "On the Road" during the train ride to Rome. I love Kerouac's language, and the subject matter is a fine accompaniment to my trip. I've been thinking about how odd it was to travel with four other people. It definitely cannot compare to being alone. Even two people that get along are a completely different experience.

On the road, alone, forces a person to write, read, survive, think, observe, and meet people. Without conversation, a person can get very lonely (like the girl from Mexico City had said about a friend of hers, two nights ago). I don't even bother with names during casual conversation.

I'm getting annoyed with my cold; my ears get clogged in every train tunnel. I arrived in Rome on time, to the minute. I am definitely amazed at the promptness of the European trains. I went straight to my number one pension choice and got a bed for 30,000 lire. I'll probably stay there the whole time I'm in Rome. It's a big city, and I'll be happy to get to quiet Venice in a few days.

I'm at the Coliseum now. It must have been cool to watch man fight beast thousands of years ago. I can't even imagine how beautiful all the white marble that covered everything must have been. My first impression of the inside is how small it looked. Still an amazing engineering feat.

Campidoglio in Rome, Italy

After the Coliseum, I wandered past the Roman Forum and ended up in the Campidoglio, which I recognized from one of my art classes. I also went into one of the two museums. The trapezoidal piazza was great to see from a balcony standpoint.

From there, I wandered around the Pantheon. The inside was filled with complex marble designs, which reminded me of the Medici chapel. I also saw Raphael's tomb there. The dome, with its nine-meter circular skylight at the acme, was an amazing visual effect. The coffers were designed to do just that. I snapped a picture of a white bird encircling the inside of the dome.

On the way back to the hostel, I got lost. By then, I was tired and hot. Next time, I'm going to avoid the scenic (don't know where I am) route. I ate two triangular ham and cheese sandwiches. The white bread appeared to have had the crust (edges) pulled off.

Tomorrow I'm going to hit the Vatican, and then I'll probably leave Sunday morning for Venice. The traffic patterns and rules here are scary. There are very few traffic lights. Mostly, you have to cross the street at the painted crosswalks. To avoid destruction at some of the big crossings, I began to wait and cross with other people. But the mopeds are still crazy, numerous, and annoying.

My toothache came back today. I hope it is nothing serious. Also, I think the lack of underwear is starting to cause itchy/irritation around my upper thigh area. The only bad part about pensions and hotels is the lack of a common room. This makes meeting other people a little more difficult. Plus, there is no alcohol allowed.

Birdseye View of Campidoglio in Rome, Italy

My room ended up being filled by nightfall. I continued to read "On the Road" while everyone returned to the room. Above me was a beautiful brunette from NYC. To my right was a beautiful blonde from New Zealand, and there was a girl from Australia.

The other four beds were filled by two couples. One didn't speak English, and the other seemed to have a strained and boring relationship. The boring couple went to bed kind of early (10 PM). I slept by the window, periodically turning to see the crescent moon over Rome.

________________

Read more of Backpacking in Europe, or see the pictures on Flickr.

Reflecting Upon My Couchsurfing Experiences

I first heard about CouchSurfing.com on the BootsnAll message boards last Summer.

Unfortunately, it was around the same time the website crashed. For a short time, it seemed I would not have the opportunity to participate.

And then, user demand helped resurrect and relaunch the network.

The Phoenix Story documents the series of events that lead to the project's 2.0 version being launched after all of the previously accumulated user data (profiles) had been lost.

So with the network back up and running, I filled out my profile in December 2006, intent on exploring the concept as both guest and host before my upcoming trip around the world.

I waited and waited some more. The Washington, DC message boards advertise a happy hour a month; however, I've yet to make it to one.

My first "friend" and positive reference came from Stefan, whom I met in Costa Rica in 2005.

A few weeks later, a guy from Texas with tons of positive references e-mailed me needing a place to stay during a conference he was planning to attend.

He said he wouldn't be around much, though it fell through when he found a host in a more convenient location.

Still, he left me a positive reference for my e-mail efforts and offered to host.

Then in March, Sonia e-mailed me out of the blue.

She lived a few miles from me and suggested we get together for a cup of coffee, as she was planning a trip around the world too.

I met her and her boyfriend for coffee soon after, and we exchanged plans, advice, and travel tales.

It felt great to talk to someone at the same stage of the game as me. We then left each other positive references, and have stayed in touch.

A young guy on an impromptu road trip e-mailed me next; however, he wanted to stop by the same week I had my dental implant drilled into my jaw, so I declined him politely.

It didn't quite feel right, and while he indicated having stayed with many people on his trip around the eastern US, I didn't see a lot of positive references on his profile.

So by the time Andre contacted me in May, I had fostered some good comments to help vouch for how swell a guy I am.

For those interested in hosting, with a low tolerance for risk, I would suggest an approach similar to what I've taken (by happenstance).

Once you start to hear others talk about their surfing experiences, you begin to feel a little more comfortable with the idea.

I thought Andre's visit went well. We both demonstrated the etiquette (and safety) advice, which is part common sense, and part available via the Tips section on the web site.

My Tips for a Positive Hosting Experience

Look for positive references on his/her profile before agreeing to host

Feel the surfer's personality out through the profile and e-mails. Does this person seem independent, or do I suspect he/she will be stuck to me like glue? Do not feel obligated to host a person just because he/she contacted you.

Communicate the rules of your home in advance. Smoke-free? Shoes off? Liquor cabinet off-limits? While unlikely, the potential guest may pass if he/she feels they can't abide by them, which is better than having them arrive at your doorstep ready to party.

Do not feel obligated to give someone a key to your home. Guests are lucky to have you offering a free place to stay, and will certainly understand if you are a little nervous about leaving them unattended. It wouldn't hurt to mention accessibility in advance, as it may be a deal-breaker for some people.

Follow the Golden Rule - treat others as you would like to be treated. While I've only hosted one person, I feel as though the effort I put into making his experience fun and comfortable was returned to me through his frequent appreciation.

My Tips for a Positive Surfing Experience (or what I expect from those who stay with me, and myself when the time comes)

Communicate travel plans in detail, and don't assume your host can pick you up (at the least, ask politely, and accept "no" without debate)

Air on the side of independence. Your host has a life, so take your cues from him/her as to how much time you'll be able to spend together. I hung out with Andre quite a bit because we were getting along, and I enjoyed showing him around and seeing him experience silly things like American coffee, air conditioning, an ice cream sundae, and a soccer match.

Say "thank you" and smile a lot. It will help put your host at ease.

Arrive with an offering for your host (Andre brought beer). Showing respect for your host will open new doors of kindness. You may get back far more than you find yourself giving.

Leave a minimal footprint in your host's home. Keep your belongings in a small part of the area where you'll be sleeping, and keep your toiletries under control.

Do not eat food unless you're invited to chow down (with or without your host around). When in doubt, ask first.

Respect your host's rules. If your host doesn't communicate the rules, ask!

I picked up much of the etiquette from the CouchSurfing tips section, however much of this is just common sense!

Hosting My First Couchsurfer

Andre, a structural engineer by trade, and a German by birth, was the first couchsurfer I had the opportunity to host. He contacted me about 6 weeks ago as he was planning to fly down from Boston (where he's a Research Associate) to attend a friend's wedding in Leesburg, VA.

After reading his introdoctury e-mail, I checked out his CS profile which was full of positive references. I responded back that I was free to host him, and we exchanged a few additional e-mails to work out the details around arrival time and directions to my apartment.

Andre at Bistro Francais

Thursday Arrival

I had mentioned to Andre in advance that I would be attending a happy hour with coworkers the night he planned to arrive, and he suggested there was no need for me to leave it early just to meet him. As it turned out, I was ready to leave by the time he was on his way to Arlington from Dulles Airport (via bus and metro). I was back at my apartment when there was a knock upon the door. I opened it up and saw an imposing figure with a big smile.

Once inside the apartment, he unzipped his day pack to reveal a 6-pack of Heineken for the host. It seems great minds think alike as I had previously picked up a 6-pack of Warsteiner, a German beer, to ensure my guest had a little reminder of home. I opened a couple of beers and we got to know each other better. I was a little self-conscious about the fact that I only had a space on the floor available, however when I offered up my down comforter and a few pillows, Andre seemed completely content, and we got some zzzz's.

Friday Night Lights

I was working a 1-10pm shift for a coworker on Friday, so in the morning, we walked a few blocks to my favorite coffeehouse, Murky Coffee. Andre had specifically indicated he wanted a ceramic cup (as we established paper "to go" cups are decidedly non-European), so he was a little miffed when his American coffee came in a giant paper cup. We gobbled down some pastries, and I pointed him east toward The Mall in Washington, DC, which he walked to as the morning sun began to beat down (it got into the upper 90's by afternoon).

Later that night, I arrived back at the apartment to find Andre enjoying the air conditioning after he experienced the full force of a hot, humid Washington summer day. I had given him a key to my apartment so he could have a little more freedom. I think he was a little surprised by the offer at first, however I shared my attitude toward believing the best in people, and practical approach toward fostering a non-materialistic lifestyle.

We met up with my friend Jason, and walked a few blocks to Clarendon, a small town with a popular nightlife near my apartment. As it was late, we were limited in our restaurant choices, and settled on Hard Times (chili) which allowed us to sit outside and watch the drunk people walk to and from the bars. After a few beers, some food, and laughs, we called it a night.

Saturday

I drove my guest to a local Macy's so he could pick up a new tie for his friend's wedding. Clothes shopping was not his forte, however we accomplished the mission, and then grabbed coffee and a bite to eat at Panera Bread, before I drove him to the bus stop so he could head west to Leesburg for the night.

DC United Fans and Flags

Soccer Sunday

Since Andre's flight didn't depart until 9pm'ish, I had invited him to a DC United (vs. NYC Red Bulls) soccer match at 1pm. I picked him up at the bus stop and we sped through the cit, arriving at RFK's parking lot in time to get some free grub from the Barra Brava (fan club) tailgate.

And then it was on to the game, where I sat in the Barra Brava section for the first time. We didn't watch the game together, as Andre needed a little distance from the beating drums and chanting hordes. DC United kicked butt, winning 4-2, and we headed back to the car. Given we had some time to kill, I suggested we check out Georgetown. We stopped in Bistro Francais where we ordered some light food, and more coffee. Then it was off for some lounging in the grass by the waterfront (of the Potomac River), before I dropped Andre off at the bus stop for the last time.

I will reflect more on my experience, and share some tips for guests and hosts in my next post.

Saying GoodBye to My Friends in Florence

The following journal excerpt is from July 29, 1998:

This morning we woke up early to avoid any lines at the Duomo. We ended up getting there around 10:30 AM, and waiting in line anyway. Eric, Sam, and Dave had to wait at the train station to reserve a spot on the train to Barcelona which ended up being full or too expensive anyway. So they're going to Nice at midnight. Meanwhile, I booked two nights at the Ostello Archi Rossi for 70,000 lire. The inside of the Duomo is not as spectacular as the outside. Dave and I went into the crypt, but it wasn't that interesting. We also climbed up 463 steps to Brunelleschi's cupola. The climb wasn't nearly as dark and tedious as the one in Prague. The view was beautiful, as was the architecture of the cupola itself. The view was definitely worth the cost. I don't know why Sam and Eric weren't willing to pay the 10,000 lire ($4).

I bought an erasable pen today. Hopefully, I'll be able to extend each Eurorail day by two to three times. Since I decided to skip Greece, I should be in good Eurorail shape. After Florence, it is on to Rome for three nights, then Venice for two to three nights. That will put me in Italy for two weeks. I think it will be a lot easier for me to do things by myself. And, once I get into a comfortable groove, the trip will go much smoother. The downfall, however will be a lack of company, and increased security concerns. I am planning/hoping to meet more people though. And if I can do that at hostels, I might pick up someone to travel with and/or go out with at night. Either way, I'm looking forward to sitting outside in the afternoons, watching/listening to the city around me. That is what I'm doing right now at the Duomo.

We split up for a couple of hours, and I went back to the Ostello Archi Rossi for an hour. There I met an Italian student who I talked to for awhile (later I find out that he had probably been high during our conversation which explains his craziness). The language barrier was there, but he knew English well, and I nodded a lot. It was cool that he mentioned Pennywise, NOFX, Bad Religion and Fugazi when I said I liked punk music. He reminded me (physically) of a friend of mine from college. I also went to the Palazzo Vecchio. It was a bit expensive for what I saw. Once again, there were a few giant rooms with amazing ceiling paintings and gilded frames. There was a sculpture by Donatello in bronze, "Judith and Holofernes." There was also a cute sculpture of a "Putti with Dolphin." I've grown to love the putti (angels). Therefore, I've begun photographing the ones I like.

We got back together and ate a bad dinner at a self serve place. Then I returned to the hostel where I met two more of my roomies, and started a load of laundry. My aim is to resurrect my stinky socks. I said good bye to Sam, Eric, and Dave. I'll survive, and have fun, but I'll miss them (double-edged sword). I am looking forward to the freedom.

Euro Traveler Award from friend

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Read more of Backpacking in Europe, or see the pictures on Flickr.

I Got My Casio Pathfinder Watch, Now Need Advice

Casio Pathfinder Watch - PAW1300

So I received my new Casio Pathfinder watch 3 days after I ordered it - awesome turnaround time from the vendor (via Amazon.com)!

It feels great on my wrist and it's noticeably thinner than the previous model I had tried on.

Plus, it doesn't feel too heavy. 

I went with the black version, as I sort of liked the look of it more than the alternative green version, however, my model has a silver band that wraps around the watch face that is quite shiny. 

This was something I wanted to avoid, as I'll be traveling to poor, third world countries next year and I do not want to attract thieves or unwanted attention (I may well attract that just by being a white American tourist, I realize).

So, my question is do I return the watch in exchange for the non-shiny green version? 

Or do I stop worrying and be happy with my new toy?

PS - I know turning the watch face over to the underside of my wrist is one way to make it less visible, and I recognize the most prudent thing to do in some areas (certain African countries for example), may be to remove it altogether.

Passport Renewal Completed

Two months after mailing my passport renewal application to the State Department, I received my brand spanking new passport in the mail last Saturday.

If you're a terrorist or intent on forging your way into the US, stop reading now!

I was surprised to find little had changed with the design.  My photo was apparently scanned, then printed on the page (vs. laminating it down), and plastered with a watermark so you can barely see my baby blue eyes.  Countless border agents worldwide are going to lose out as a result!

I get a new passport number with the renewal.  I remember a Brit in Guatemala last year pointed out to me, as I took out my passport to sign into a hostel, not knowing one's passport number by heart brands a novice backpacker!  What-ever.  You should see the retarded number of username/password combinations I have to recall each day at work - let alone personal bank accounts and web site stuff.  It's ridiculous.

I noticed there were no microchips implanted in it, unless it is so thin I don't know it's there.  And it still seemed a few pages too short.  I hope to fill the sucker up in 2008!

Apparently, I was a tad lucky, as there are people waiting a lot longer than me due to the recent changes in passport policies affecting Americans going to Canada, Mexico and the Caribbean.

I Just Bought a Casio Pathfinder Watch

Question: What does a guy do when he's planning a backpacking trip around the world, and he finds himself ahead of schedule in savings with 6 months to go?

Answer: He buys a Casio Pathfinder watch for $199 from Amazon.com. Why would he need such a watch? Just consider the following scenario, and you'll wonder no more!

Our intrepid hero is scaling Lhotse in Nepal, the world's fourth highest peak at 27,940 feet (8,516 meters). He periodically checks the Pathfinder's altimeter to ensure he is not ascending too quickly, thus decreasing his chances of contracting a potentially deadly case of altitude sickness. As he locks into memory his new highest height of 21,500 feet, he notices a drop in barometric pressure via the barometer, and corresponding drop in temperature via the thermometer.

As the winds pick up, and clouds envelope the mountain, our hero bivouac's (encamps) high up the mountain. In his dimly lit tent, he checks the time, thankful his watch has an auto backlight which turns on when he tilts the watch so he doesn't have to take off his warm mittens. A solar powered battery ensures watch functionality in case it remains overcast and stormy for the next 5 months.

Days pass, and concerns grow about avalanche risk higher up the mountain. The expedition is canceled, and our hero begins to navigate down the mountain using his Pathfinder's digital compass, as the well-worn climbing route has been covered by three feet of fresh snow. Thanks to multi-band 5 atomic timekeeping, he can be sure to rendezvous with his yaks at precisely the right time to carry his gear back to Kathmandu.

As for his Casio Pathfinder PAW1300-1V watch, it's a cool 28% thinner and lighter than previous models, so even after a 20,000 foot climb, it's no sweat off his back to wear it home.

Travel Channel's 5 Takes - Latin America

The fourth season of the Travel Channel's 5 Takes series began this past Saturday night in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I've been a fan of the series, having watched the three previous seasons where 5 travel journalists (or TJ's as they're called) backpacked around Europe, Australia/New Zealand/Southeast Asia, and the United States.

It was a rather motley crew of travelers which had been selected for the Latin America season, including a chubby bald guy, Vinny, who started crying about Eva Peron. Didn't Madonna sing "Don't Cry For Me Argentina?" After about 20 minutes, having being introduced to the new characters as they learned to tango and explore the Argentine culture, I realized I wasn't interested. I turned it off.

Perhaps my negative attitude has less to do with an interest in the hosts of the fourth season and more to do with my exhaustion of TV travel shows. You name it and I've seen it over the past few years. I've decided to take a break from them all - no 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, no 5 Takes, no GlobeTrekker, no Travel Channel period (except maybe No Reservations which is more about food)!

As Tom Petty sang, "the waiting is the hardest part."

The Decision to Split Up in Europe

Santa Maria Novella in Florence, Italy

Monday, July 27, 1998

Duomo in Florence, ItalySo we're on a train to Florence right now (minus Bill). I finally tended to my feet today. I only have one blister, and it isn't bothering me. What is bothersome are my two sandal friction cuts which I bandaged. I'm also on my last role of toilet paper. This problem is due to my cold, which hasn't improved much since Venezia. We arrived in Florence around 9:30 PM. We immediately left the station and went to a hotel that had approached us at the station. The guy and his dog were nice, but his wife (I assume) was talking to herself while she made up the extra beds. She seemed kind of scary.

Since we had found lodging early, we walked around the city for awhile. We stopped for a late dinner at a Chinese restaurant in the Piazza de Santa Maria Novella. My seat at the table (on the sidewalk) provided a perfect view of the church facade on a cool, clear night. It really was beautiful. After our inexpensive dinner, we went down to the Duomo. The ornate and colorful Baptistery, Church, and Campanile surprised me. The buildings were so rich in colored marble (green, pink, white) patterns, and sculpture. I was also shocked to see a whole lot of people sitting on the front stairs of the church. On the way back to our hotel, I stopped at a gelateria, and ended up paying 15,000 lire ($7) for a four scoop cone. This was definitely one of the bigger mistakes (money wise) I've made. Then, we went to bed to the loud, LOUD sounds of scooters and trucks. We have a shower in one corner of the room. The room itself is the nicest we've been in: colorful tile floor, large open window, and high ceiling. The hotel we are in (like most of the buildings in Florence) is a former palazzo.

Tuesday, July 28, 1998

Masaccio's Trinity in Florence, ItalyThis morning I woke everyone up to go to the Uffizi (museum). When we got there, the wait in line was about one hour. (which wasn't bad at all since it was in the shade). Outside the museum were several copies of important sculptures (as well as originals like the Neptune Fountain), the most famous being Michelangelo's "David." I didn't spend much time looking at it, probably because it was a copy, and a detailed look would be inaccurate. It was the same way with the "Gates of Paradise" on the Baptistery. Inside the museum, I recognized many of the artists, but few of the paintings from my (art history) classes. "The Madonna of the Goldfinch" by Raphael was noteworthy, as several by Leonardo da Vinci. There were also several portraits that I recognized, including that of Bia Medici. She was portrayed beautifully against a blue background. "The Venus of Urbino" was there too. The museum itself was also decorated with ceiling frescoes. The two main hallways were lined with sculptures and busts.

From there, Eric and Sam went back to the hotel to sleep and read. I can't seem to figure out why they aren't interested in seeing more sights, or at least hanging out in the city. The way I see it, I paid and went through a lot to get here, and I'm not going to spend the afternoons sitting around in a hotel room. Me and Dave went to the Palazzo Medici next. There we saw one of the main rooms, gilded with frescoes. We also sat in the courtyard for ½ hour. From there, we went to the Baptistery. Then, we went to a music store where Dave bought the new Rancid album, and I got the new Beastie Boys (Hello Nasty). We also went to the Medici family church, San Lorenzo. The apse was being renovated, but there was still plenty to see. We walked around the cloister courtyard. The second level was closed, as were the Medici chapels. We also went to Santa Maria Novella. There, I saw Masaccio's "Trinity" which is one of my favorite works. Unfortunately, I wasn't sure where to stand to get the true sense of (illusionary) perspective.

We went to get our last dinner together after sitting in the Piazza Santa Maria Novella for a bit. The night was cool and comfortable. Sam brought up his interest in leaving Europe on August 9th (3 weeks early). It didn't take long for Dave to decide to follow suit. I can safely attribute part of their ditch effort to their girlfriends (Eric had other reasons). Since I'm not homesick at all, the decision for me to stay and continue the trip alone was easy. We went to dinner at a pizzeria that had a garden terrace in the back. I ordered a big blonde Heineken which turned out to be a one litre (glass). Everyone else got water. After that, we went to the Dublin Pub where we drank pints of Guinness, Dark and Tan, and Strongbow (cider). The music included Bob Marley's "Legend" and a Tom Petty live album. It would be the last time we'd drink together in Europe.

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Read more of Backpacking in Europe, or see the pictures on Flickr.

Staying Motivated to Travel Long Term

If I had not allowed myself to travel to Costa Rica in May 2005, I may have abandoned my goal of backpacking around the world.

Initially, I didn't intend to travel abroad for a week or two each year because I wanted to stay on track for a more grandiose adventure.

It was my mom who suggested, after I broke the news about my dream trip, that I take a vacation.

After some thought, I realized she was right, and I shouldn't deny myself some time off (from work).

Excited by the decision to travel abroad again, I wanted to head to Switzerland as it was a country I had passed by during my European jaunt in 1998, though would hear great things about soon after (especially Interlaken).

My mom chimed in again, reminding me that perhaps I should leave a trip to one of the most expensive countries on the planet for a period in my life when I could better afford to enjoy it.

She mentioned Costa Rica, and I planned my first international backpacking trip (in 7 years) after finding airfare for $300 round trip (about 60% less than airfare to Switzerland at the time).

To make a long travelogue short, I had a blast during my first visit to Central America.

It reawakened my passion for the freedom one experiences during independent travel, bolstered my self-confidence, and reminded me of why I wanted to take a trip around the world.

As I had a steady job, I even let my budget bloat to fit what I could comfortably afford (ie. splurges like a spa treatment, 2 massages, costlier meals on a few occasions).

In May 2006, I set my sights on Belize, with a side trip at the end to Tikal in Guatemala.

Again, while the cost of the trip affected my RTW savings in the short term, I gained much more in terms of excitement for my long term plans.

As we wrap up May 2007, my RTW date of departure is less than 6 months away, so I decided to forego a 2.5-week trip this Spring and stick to a few weekends in New York City instead.

There are many ways to approach saving and planning for a trip around the world.

Hopefully, this blog has exposed you to my slow and steady approach. If I were an animal, I'd be a turtle.

I might not cross the finish line first, however, I will definitely get there, and enjoy the scenery along the way!

5 Idiots Arrive in Lake Como - Italy's Premiere Vacation Spot

Eric and Dave view Lake Como in Italy

Saturday, July 25, 1998

I rushed back to the hotel, and we checked out around 12:15 PM. The people there screwed us, but I really didn't care about that. The fact was, everyone wanted to leave after three days and two nights, and I wasn't going to be able to prolong our stay. For this reason, I decided to take an optimistic view, and savor the time I had there, and of course vow to come back again. The reason people in our group started to get on my nerves was simple. We often found ourselves walking around for longs periods, due to indecisiveness. I don't know, I was madder the past two days than I am now. I guess being sick has made me that more on edge regarding certain things. But, hopefully we are getting into the travel groove.

I'm going to miss Eric when he leaves in a week, due to a lack of money. I on the other hand, was $10 under budget per day by the end of Prague. However, I've spent a lot of money since I've been sick, and in Venice. Luckily, we're on our way to some Northern Italian lake retreat where expenses will be much cheaper. From there we'll probably go to Florence, Rome, and Greece. I'm really enjoying Italy, especially the architecture. I'm the only one so far who hasn't spoken to my parents. I tried in Prague, but realized they were on vacation in North Carolina. I also remembered that they are going to take a week in August to visit friends and family in New York.

Italian squat toiletWe reached Como after a mad dash at the train station in Milan. As it turns out, we didn't even have to leave the train we were on originally. Since we didn't know this, we got off the train at Milan, went to the Information/ticket booth, waited in line, and then found out. This resulted in us running around the train station with our packs bouncing back and forth. When we got to Como, it was a twenty minute walk to our hostel. Once there, I found out that I was the only one with a Hostel Card, thereby getting the cheaper rate (15,000 lire instead of 21,000 lire, or $2).

This hostel was my first experience with the "hole" style of toilet. My aim was true, and I managed not to make a mess. I took a photograph to document the insanity of these toilets. After walking around the town, and not finding much, we went back to the hostel. Actually, we walked around the lake (seeing no place to swim), and I admired the palazzos (palaces) that lined its shore. I think one of them even belonged to the late designer, Versace. Somehow, I managed to get really drunk that night. All I had was a small bottle of white wine I had bought in Venice, and two pints of Devil's Kiss beer. The beer tasted great and it was 7% alcohol. Also, this hostel had a nice backyard with grass, trees, tables, and benches. Most of our fellow travelers were European.

Sunday, July 26, 1998

This morning we had an ok breakfast, I was slightly hung over. It rained during the night, and I found the close I had left out to dry were soaked and dirty (the gutter practically emptied onto the clothesline). We left to find a more rural location around the lake (the thing turned out to be huge). We waited around for two hours for about two hours for the blue bus to Menaggio. When we finally got on the bus, it was a beautiful one hour drive to our stop. The scenery/architecture seemed Mediterranean. All the towns and buildings were pastel colors, with tile and slate roofs. The mountains surrounded the lake. Though I still think Venice is the most beautiful thing I've seen, this seemed to come in a close second. The road that wound around the perimeter of the lake was only two lanes, and weaved through very small towns. The bus would normally glide past wall a mere inch or two away. It was quite scary.

Campground on Lake Como, ItalyWe arrived in Menaggio, and immediately went to the hostel that was nearby. Unfortunately, it was booked for the night. We wandered past 4 star hotels and even a cinema and mini golf place, before finding a place to stay at a campground (Campaggio Europe). All except Bill waited till a bungalow was free (30 minutes), and then we moved in for the night at 75,000 lire for four people. Bill had decided earlier to go his own way (till 6:30 PM). Meanwhile, we went swimming in the lake, and hung out at our bungalow.

I did some laundry since my socks and underwear had managed to stink up my whole backpack (including all my other clothes)! I don't think my washing them helped either. Though I can't abandon the socks, I might get rid of the underwear. I really like this campground, lost of Italians taking their summer vacations. My sickness is starting to get better. We went to dinner, and I got a pizza with tuna fish on it. It smelled a little funny, but tasted fine. We came back to the bungalow and played some cards. Eric saw a mouse right before we went to sleep. We also took a dip in the lake after dinner, which was nice. The beach area is all rocks.

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Read more of Backpacking in Europe, or see the pictures on Flickr.

Budgeting for a Trip Around the World

The 6-part series on saving for a trip around the world will close with this post on the topic of developing a budget. While it may have fit better after we discussed establishing travel and financial goals, I wanted to save the best for last.

Truth be told, I did not begin to seriously research a budget until last summer, three years into my saving. I had begun to participate in the BootsnAll message boards, and came across a common type of Q&A where a member posts a budget, and requests feedback from everyone else. I decided it was time to write out a rough itinerary, and figure out how much my dream travels were going to cost.

First, I acquired a copy of Microsoft Excel from a coworker so I could easily organize and edit ideas and costs. Second, I picked up Rough Guide’s First-Time Around the World (A Trip Planner for the Ultimate Journey). Though the first edition I bought was written in 2003, it was a great starting place with a wealth of detailed daily living cost estimates for much of the world, as well as sample transportation prices for popular routes, and Visa info.

I used this information, combined with people’s feedback (based on experience), to associate a daily cost per day with each country on my itinerary.

I also assigned time frames (in weekly increments) to spend in each location.

I bolded the “must see” countries on my list, and ordered them in a west to east direction starting with New Zealand and ending with the west coast of the United States.

I posted the spreadsheet on BootsnAll, and received good feedback on my estimates (and it also lead to my first TV interview with NBC, to be posted shortly).

I then turned to the rest of the expenses I would accrue, such as start-up costs (which for me include travel insurance, medical insurance, and storage).

I did not include immunizations as I intend to use my employer sponsored health coverage.

I received a new digital camera as a Christmas gift, and will buy a used or inexpensive mp3 player within the next few months.

I did some cost estimations on airfare for the major legs of my trip (continent to continent) using Orbitz as I do not intent to buy a RTW ticket. I started a list of activities which I wanted to do in each region.

And then using formulas, I established the total cost of my trip, my net savings (gross assets minus debts), and remainder left to save.

I added a second worksheet dedicated to tracking my progress toward meeting the total trip cost, and broke the goals up into 4 timeframes. I added a third worksheet to track my pre-departure task list. And lastly (for now), I wrote up a list of my belongings, seperating what I intended to keep versus sell/store/donate.

David’s ‘Round the World Plan

As I continue to play with Google’s Docs & Spreadsheets application, I think I may use it to track my spending (vs budget) in real time as I travel. I believe this would help me greatly, and may also prove valuable to others in the planning stages. I could also use it to track the carbon offsets I buy along the way. As always, your comments and suggestions are welcome!

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Further Reading - Besides guide books, the Internet has opened up information sharing to us all. A good starting place is the BootsnAll message boards where you’ll find a knowledgeable and helpful audience for your questions.

Blogs are the newest way for travelers to share their budgets and actual trip costs. The 3 Lost Girls kept meticulous records of their year long travel expenses, and posted them recently in a 3-part series. This is the kind of detail which is very rare, mostly because it can be a rather boring proposition to keep track, then present back, such detailed data.

Saving for Travel is a website with a calculator for establishing a budget to one or more countries. Estimates are in British pounds.

Popular Travel Games - Cards, Chess, Charrades, and more

Bill plays chess in a hostel in Amsterdam

Card games and chess are ubiquitous with a backpacker's life on the road. Both options are popular and proven ways to casually get to know fellow travelers, often in hostel common areas. Whether you're kicking a party night off with a drinking game, killing time on a rainy day, or simply enjoy the quiet challenge of a chess match, social connections are always an invitation away.

Cards

The best known, and therefore most common card games, include Hearts, Spades, Gin (Rummy), and Poker. These games frequent develop on train rides and during rainy afternoons when everyone is hostel-bound. Drinking games include the ever-popular Asshole and Bullshit. Usually, there is always one person in a given hostel common room familiar with the rules of these popular games, so don't be afraid to suggest one even if you don't know how to play.

Chess

For those who appreciate a slower pace to their competitive endeavors, chess can provide ample time to not only get to know your opponent, but to impress your fellow travelers with your intense patience and intellectual prowess. My fondest memory of a chess game was last year when an 18-year old German guy taught me some basic strategy the night before I left Flores, Guatemala. I was actually able to beat another person (vs. the more common stalemate) using the tips.

Fishing in BelizeCharades

Picture this: after an afternoon of fishing off the coast of a small Caribbean island with new friends you met the day before, and barbecuing your fresh catch together under the moonlight, you sit around on the sandy beach and strike up a game of charades. Such was my experience in Belize last year on Caye Caulker. I had to act out "Alf," and to my surprise, a girl guessed it despite my lame attempts to walk like the furry alien TV character.

Truth or Dare

While I have yet to play Truth or Dare in my adult life, it falls under a common category of more personal, conversational games which focus on eliciting stories and experiences from one's past. Inevitably, these games result in flushing out the sexual histories of their participants.

What games have you enjoyed (or avoided) during your travels?

Chef Ferran Adria's El Bulli - #1 Restaurant in the World

Spain is on my short list of western European countries to visit on my backpacking trip. Spain also happens to be the home of Chef Ferran Adria of El Bulli restaurant. Located 177 km northeast of Barcelona, along the Mediterranean coast, El Bulli was ranked the #1 restaurant in the world in 2006 by over 500 critics, chefs, and gourmets around the world (for The Restaurant Magazine's annual Top 50 list).

The restaurant has become such a destination for international foodies, it's website has instructions for arriving by air, road, and sea! Unfortunately, such directions won't prove useful if you wanted to make a reservation for 2007 as they're booked for the rest of the year.

I've seen the food, cooking, and presentation techniques featured on several TV shows, and it's no wonder Time magazine listed Ferran Adria as one of it's 100 most influential people in 2007. I'm going to leave it to others to describe the fantastically innovative approach he takes to fine dining.

Instead, I ask whether you would consider paying $300 ($400 w/wine, $500 w/tip) per person for a 30-course menu at a restaurant with accolades such as these? You would literally need to build a trip to Spain around when you could get a reservation.

My answer? I would like to do it sometime in my life! Given how far in advance you have to book a reservation though, I do not know that El Bulli will be an option on my upcoming world tour. While I could pay for it by skipping an entire country, say Switzerland, I do not think it'd be an experience I would want to have alone, and I doubt I'd find any takers at the local hostel!

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Restaurant Review - Chocolate and Zucchini covers a 2006 Dinner at El Bulli, complete with details and pictures of over 30 courses, prices, and reservation strategies.

10 Rules for Coping with Panic Attacks

Three or four years ago, I was taking a shower before work in my apartment when I was suddenly overcome with an intense panic. My heart started to race, my breathing became shallow, and I jumped out of the shower not knowing what hit me. Part of me knew I was in no mortal danger, however that didn't seem to be the part controlling my body at the time. I turned on my computer, and did a quick Internet search for "panic attacks."

As I started to read through a few web pages, I came across a very similar version of the following instructions for coping with panic attacks, which I began to repeat to myself over and over...

1. Remember panic feelings are only normal reactions that are exaggerated.
2. They are not harmful and nothing worse will happen.
3. Notice what is happening in your body now. Stay with the present. Slow down, relax but keep going.
4. Thinking about what might happen is unhelpful. Only now matters.
5. Accept the feelings. Let them run through you and they will disappear more quickly.
6. Monitor your level of anxiety: 10 (worst) to 0 (least). Watch the level go down.
7. Stay in the situation. If you run away, avoid or escape, it will be more difficult in the future.
8. Take a few slow, deep breaths.
9. Consciously relax your tense muscles. Feel yourself relaxing.
10. Now begin to concentrate again on what you were doing before.

Eventually I got myself to work, where I mentioned what had happened to my very understanding boss. The first day or two after the initial event were very difficult. I felt as though I was going to have the experience again at any moment. I was literally scared of being scared...even paranoid. It was awful.

Over the following months and years, I became more in-tune with my mind and body, and what I could do to help decrease the likelihood of having another panic attack. While I was challenged many more times, the severity was never equal to that first occasion. I carry the list of rules above with me in my wallet, just in case. I ensure time for regular exercise, writing, and socializing. When I do these three things routinely, I greatly minimize any irrational fears of impending death as a result of minor aches and pains. If you've never had a panic attack, this might sound a little weird, however the problem is simply a physical fight or flight response to non-threatening experiences (a subconscious overreaction).

I wanted to ensure these tips were posted to my blog should I need to call on them during my backpacking trip around the world.

7 Small Ways to Start Increasing Your Savings Today

Last week’s techniques toward saving BIG money encompassed the broader ideas I adopted toward reaching my financial (and therefore travel) goals.

This week, it’s time for a barrage of simpler suggestions culled from my own experience, as well as the many good travelers on the BootsnAll message boards.

Adopt a few, try them out, keep doing what works for you, and spit out those that leave a bad taste.

1. Bring your lunch to work rather than going out to restaurants or buying food.

Not only will you save money, but you’ll also probably lose weight because you’re exercising control over portion size.

By the way, bringing lunch does not mean you have to spend time making it yourself.

I eat frozen dinners 4 of 5 days a week, allowing myself a restaurant meal every Friday as a reward for being disciplined.

2. Entertain at home versus going out to bars and clubs.

If you’re a social butterfly, do more entertaining at home. In exchange for hosting, ask your guests to bring their beer or wine.

Pick up chips and dip, turn on some music, and you’ll have a gay old time.

3. Cut down on alcohol, nicotine, and drug use.

Would you rather be drinking a Bud in your apartment, or Sapporo in Sapporo, Japan? Your liver, lungs, and other vital organs will thank you for the break.

4. Open a high-interest savings account.

I’m currently using ING Direct, which is an online bank. I’m earning 4.5% interest, which feels like about ten times the interest I receive through my regular savings account.

They even have a little counter which shows accrued interest per month, and year-to-date. I’m currently earning $40/month on a $12,000 balance.

5. Pay for cable TV, or broadband Internet, not both.

It is becoming increasingly popular to watch TV shows via the Internet. My brother even bought a plasma TV for his NYC apartment so he could watch shows and movies he downloads on a big screen.

I, on the other hand, still pay for both. However, I do intend to downgrade my cable in 3 weeks after The Sopranos finale.

6. Document ALL of your spending.

The mere act of tracking your spending will likely curb your impulse buys. Reviewing how you spend your money can be an enlightening process.

If you’re like me, and the prospect of tracking such information for eternity sounds painful, try it for three months.

It should be enough time for you to see some trends and areas where you can cut back. Check out eight months of tracking I did from 2005-2006.

7. Use coupons and shop sales.

While I’ve cut back on getting my car washed as my trip draws nearer, when I do go, I clip out a coupon from a weekly newspaper for 30% off.

Bonus Tip

Adjust your auto insurance policy.

Increase your deductible, and your premium will come down. If you have medical insurance, opt out of medical coverage through your auto-carrier.

The maximum payout usually is very low, so you’re mostly paying for supplemental coverage.

Planning for a Trek in Nepal: Choosing the Right Route and Season

I made a noteworthy change to the early part of my 'round-the-world backpacking itinerary to better support a trek in Nepal.

It's a change in route, rather than the countries I intend to visit. Initially, I was planning to tour Southeast Asia first, then work counterclockwise toward Tibet, Nepal, and India.

Sunrise over the Himalaya - Poon Hill, Nepal (April 2008)
Sunrise over the Himalaya - Poon Hill, Nepal (April 2008)

The order was something along the lines of New Zealand, Australia, Bali, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, China, Tibet, Nepal, India (and on to Africa).

Apparently, from the new book I started reading a few days ago, Trekking in Nepal by Stephen Bezruchka, this would put me in Nepal during the monsoon season, which runs from July through late September.

The author indicates that trekking in monsoon weather can be an adventure in itself; however, the idea of constantly walking in the rain, up and down slippery slopes, while encountering washed-out bridges, does not appeal to me.

So, with a little rearranging, I figure I can head in a clockwise manner and hit Nepal in near prime trekking weather, March/April, which are the third and fourth most popular (and thus potentially ideal) months to trek.

The prime season is October and November; however, that will fall too late in 2008 for me to make a reality based on my overall plan.

Since trekking in Nepal is one of the experiences I am looking forward to with the most childlike giddiness, I was happy to rearrange my approach to:

New Zealand, Australia, Bali, Thailand, India, Nepal, Tibet, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand (longer stay, then on to Africa).

Also, the book is starting to give shape to the kind of trekking experience I want. While reaching Everest Base Camp sounds cool, I think it's the second most popular trek for a reason: the high altitude.

I've also started researching what the experience actually involves, from acclimatization days to permit logistics and trekking costs. Trekkers booking from abroad can also check Magical Nepal's Everest Base Camp trek for a day-by-day itinerary and practical planning details from a Kathmandu-based operator.

I've seen some posts on BootsnAll saying it's not too bad; however, I've also never been above 5,000 feet unless it's in a plane, nor have I ever walked for weeks at a time.

So, I'm currently focusing on a 2-3-week trek in the Annapurna region (the most trekked area of Nepal, per the book).

If anyone has trekked in Nepal (or the Himalayas), I'd appreciate any feedback on your experiences and/or suggestions!

What Indiana Jones Taught Me About Faith

Disclaimer: This post will be the least religious, most basic intellectual deconstruction you'll find on this topic!

A frequent post which appears in BootsnAll's Around the World and Vagabonding Travel forum is the one where the future traveler starts to feel anxiety around his or her long term journey.

Usually, they post a message a few weeks or days before departure, stating how nervous (yet excited) they feel.

In response, veteran trampers write words of encouragement to nudge them past their fears.

For the past year or so, I've responded by saying I can't wait to have that feeling and be the person posting about it.

In actuality, I've already started to experience it.

In less than six months, at age 31, I'm going to quit my job of five years, sell or donate almost all my possessions, and get on a plane to fly halfway around the world, with only a backpack, some money, and my wits to sustain me for months, if not years.

If I hadn't been interacting with so many others who have or are already doing it, I'd think I were crazy!

In many ways, this plan is very NOT me.

My family brought me up to get good grades in school so I could get into a good college.

Do well in college, then get a job and start a career, and family, which results in buying a house and having kids (grandchildren for my parents).

Then the cycle starts over again with the new generation of Lee's.

As you can tell by now, I took an offramp from this traditional road, though it doesn't mean I'm not scared at times about it!

And this brings me to Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. In the third installment, Indiana is on a quest for the Holy Grail.

As he draws closer, he's faced with three tests. When my nerves start to fester about my upcoming trip, I recall Indy's third test, the Leap of Faith, where he comes across a bottomless canyon which he must cross.

The problem?

There is no visible bridge for him to use. What is our hero to do?

Indiana Jones steps out into the void on faith, not reason. To his surprise, and ours in the audience, a bridge did exist, though camouflaged with the canyon walls and only visible once the camera pans to a perpendicular view.

So when my reasoning turns to anxiety, like Indiana Jones, I remind myself to have a little faith...in myself...my fellow travelers...and the locals of each country I will visit.

________________

Further reading: Faith and Reason from a Christian perspective, Wikipedia, and Internet Movie Database entries on Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Travel Decision - How Much to Keep in Storage?

To store, or not to store, that is the question! Last summer, I drew up a rough list of how I would handle my material possessions before embarking on my trip around the world.

My Arlington Studio Apartment
My studio apartment

I was pretty proud to put my Sony TV in the sales column. However, I figured I'd store clothes, select books, snowboard gear, art, kitchen stuff, and the few pieces of furniture I owned, including my queen-size bed, kitchen table (with four chairs), and leather love seat. The price of 5'x10' storage spaces seemed to fit my budget-about $100/month (climate-controlled).

My Arlington Apartment 2

Then, this past Friday night, while drinking a delicious Sam Adams Boysenberry Wheat Ale, I took a measuring tape to one corner of my studio apartment and measured out a 50-square-foot space. My bed alone took up 30 sq. feet! Good grief, I thought.

I could either increase the amount of money I'd be paying to save my stuff, thereby reducing my travel budget, or I could get rid of the few big-ticket items I owned. Perhaps that way, I could even downgrade to a 5'x5' storage space at about $60/month.

The next day, after donating some stuff, I stopped by an Extra Space storage facility about 15 minutes from my apartment. Handrick, the rep there, was super friendly without being pushy. First, he showed me the 50-square-foot space (400 cubic feet).

It was conceivable I could fit my bed on its end in there with the rest of the stuff I mentioned above; however, it would be tight, and I know it's not ideal to store a bed on its end due to gravity's effect on the springs (so I hear, at least).

More than the tight squeeze concerning space, the cost increasingly irked me. After all, my ultimate goal is to be away with a complete sense of freedom, and paying so much for storage would eventually weigh on me.

The 25-square-foot space (200 cubic feet) would definitely not allow me to include furniture. It would have to be straight boxes, floor to ceiling.

As I stood in the cool, small enclosure, it became clear that my priority was to save money rather than hold onto stuff. So, I revised my sell vs. storage list to reflect my new decision to sell my bed and table set (via Craig's List, as suggested on the BootsnAll message boards) and hopefully find a friend to take care of my leather love seat.

Unfortunately, my parents' home is not an option as they will likely be moving while I'm gone, and I wouldn't feel right asking them to assume the responsibility. However, I'll reserve the right should all else fail!

Another Donation Trip to the Salvation Army

Donations to the Salvation Army

I made yet another trip to the Salvation Army yesterday to donate more unused clothes, books, and my 12-year old 35mm camera.

My office has a lounge with a bookcase, so I've been dropping off my more subversive fiction (Post Office, The Catcher in the Rye) and non-fiction books (Culture Jam, Commodify Your Dissent) for coworkers' benefit in the hopes of sharing some of my views on consumerism and life with them. I figured books on cocktails, mystical Persian poetry, and string theory might be better suited for the Salvation Army crowd.

My 35mm Minolta camera, which has worked wonderfully since the mid-90's, is far past it's prime from a cultural, financial, and convenience perspective. In Belize last year, a person who took my picture gave me a look when he held it as though I'd been living under a rock for not going digital by the year 2006. Before heading to the Salvation Army, I dropped by a pawn shop to see if I could hawk it after I saw no interest through Craig's List, and the old lady basically laughed in my face!

I have to admit though, I'm extremely pleased with my new Canon PowerShot SD700 IS Digital Elph!

Venice, Renaissance Art, and the Police

San Giorggio Maggiore in Venice

The following journal entry was written Friday, July 24, 1998:

With no air conditioning, and five people in one room, last night was hot and uncomfortable. I slept well, especially after taking some cold medicine procured at a local pharmacia. Today, I learned our stay in Venice would only last two nights. For this reason, I set out to see some major attractions. But first we needed to find a cheaper hotel/hostel to stay in. After a failed attempt at this, we returned to the Hotel Leonardo and got ready to check out. As we dropped the key off, we decided to bargain, by quoting the 29,000 lire price of a room we didn't have. Since the guy knew he was ripping us off already, it didn't seem hard to bring the price down to 28,000 lire per person, for one room (down from 40,000 lire).

Gilded Mosaic on San MarcoAfter this burden was lifted, I led the group to the Accademia which housed 15th-18th century Italian Art. The place wasn't air conditioned, like I had expected. Therefore, I continued to sweat buckets while viewing the artwork of Carpaccio, Bellini, Tintoretto, and Giorgionne, among others. Though the "Tempest" was there, it didn't seem as impressive as its legend/history. The altarpieces were amazing to see up close. The glow of the gilded paint is definitely something that can only be appreciated in person. "The Feast at the House of Levi" was there too, and it covered the entire side of a giant room. Such a giant magnitude isn't even comprehendible from a slide or book.

From the museum, we headed to San Marco. There, everyone seemed happy to feed and be attacked by the pigeons (except me and Bill who just looked on in horror). Eric and Sam decided not to pay the four dollars to go up the Campanile. I, on the other hand, don't regret spending a dime (or lire) in this beautiful city. The view from atop the bell tower was spectacular, plus there was a cool breeze. There were four giant bells up there, and I was wondering if they ring them while people are up there? From San Marco we went to Lido again. There Eric and I took a stroll down some of the more residential streets. I was trying to figure out if these large houses were apartments, and if so, how expensive they were. There were also small canals going down the east/west streets. We also stopped in an arcade. I played three games of "Fantasia." The game attracted me because of the naked girls that appeared on the demo screen. The object was to clear a screen, using a cursor, thereby revealing a semi-naked model. Most of the other games were old, really old. For example, they had Popeye and Donkey Kong. According to Eric, the game boards/chips were probably pirated (bought on the black market), which explains why all the games are in blank or generic boxes/consoles. After the arcade, we went to dinner at a pizzeria that boasted 100 types of pizza. I ordered the mozzarella, cheese, and "roast suckling pig." The meat was thinly sliced and delicious. And, it only cost $5. It was very enjoyable dining on the sidewalk. We even drank Venetian red wine!

After dinner, we went to the beach because Sam and Dave wanted to go swimming. There were very few people on the beach at this late point in the day. Mostly, they were tourists like us who wanted a late swim in the Adriatic Sea. After that, we took the vaporetto back to our hotel, while watching a beautiful sunset. Since the one-way trip takes an hour, we also got to see the Grand Canal and San Marco at night, all lit up. Most of the boat traffic on the canals had stopped by this time (8:30 PM?). We got to see a small boat pulling a lighted platform with an opera singer, and (4-6 piece) accompaniment. After hearing that it had reached 100 degrees Fahrenheit today, we went back to the hotel and cleaned up our sweaty bodies.

San Marco Square in Venice

We bought some wine with the thought of drinking it near a canal. At the time, it sounded like a romantic notion, but it turned out to be a waste of time. Instead of going to the San Marcaulo boat stop (which had benches, was dark, and actually on the Grand Canal) we went down some random canal which came to an end with a wooden fence marked (no entrance). We had been sitting there for a few minutes when Bill arrived with a beer. He immediately climbed around the fence and pissed. About five seconds later 2 policemen armed with machine guns approached the fence and began to figure out who was behind it. As it turns out, there was an important statue being restored back there, hence the fence. Bill came around the fence and got a tongue-lashing from the police (who actually cocked their guns or something at one point). The rest of the time we were sitting on the small dock (in front of a palazzo), the police remained at the exit of the canal, watching us. I guess it was their beat for the night. Since I hadn't seen much public drinking (picnics) in Venice, I felt really awkward at this point. This was compounded by the small boats of people riding by us. Basically, I wasn't enjoying the situation; therefore, I wasn't even drinking the wine.

We went to a bar later, where I ordered a pint of Guinness for $4. That night Bill stayed out until 3 AM. When he got back, and was walking down the alley, our crazy Italian neighbor began yelling at him again. Bill left, then waited till the guy had gone to bed, and then climbed up the wall (of the hotel) to our second story room (about 12 feet). This was a very impressive feat to accomplish while drunk and tired.

5 Techniques to Save BIG Money

Now that we've reviewed effective strategies for paying off debt, it is time to turn our attention to a much more fun topic, saving money!

While my goal has been to go backpacking around the world, the amount of money I've been saving over the past five years is easily enough to buy a condo in a nice neighborhood in Washington, DC or a Porsche.

For these techniques to work, I am assuming you are as passionate about your goal as I am about mine.

1. Maintain your current standard of living

Adopt a mantra akin to " I want what I have, and don't want what I don't have."

In my case, as my income rose over the past few years due to raises, cost of living adjustments, and a promotion, I simply saw the added income as a way to save more money toward my goal, rather than upgrade my car (Audi A4 please) or buy a new watch (Tag Heuer).

This approach may not work if you are impatient, or have little time to achieve your financial goal.

2. Downgrade your living situation

This tip is for those of you who cannot maintain your current living arrangement while working toward your goal.

If you're living alone, perhaps it's time to find a roommate, move in with a friend, or (gasp) back home with your parents.

Personally, I'm the type of person who is much happier living alone after years of experience with roommates (who were often friends mind you).

Technically, I considered my move from living with a roommate to a studio apartment an upgrade; however I locked in an amazing deal on the terms of my lease as a result of good timing.

My initial rent began at about $250 less than the normal rate for my apartment.

My yearly increases were 7%, thus I saw the benefit of my initial rate pay off over 4 of my 5 years in the apartment.

By this last lease renewal (for 9 months), the rate caught up with me due to the real estate growth in my neighborhood, however I still negotiated them down from their initial renewal rate!

If you can't bring yourself to downgrade, then commit to technique number one by not upgrading.

3. Sign up for automatic paycheck deferrals, or an Employee Stock Purchase Plan (ESPP)

I've worked for two start-up companies, earning stock options with both.

Neither situation afforded me an early retirement when the company went public or was bought.

I did learn the value of ESPP's though. In both cases, I was able to defer a percentage of my post-tax salary to buy the parent company stock at a 15% discount off of the lowest price within a financial quarter (three month period).

The current participation in my company's ESPP plan will account for about 35% (or $10,000) of my total trip savings.

The reason I prefer this approach over deferring money every paycheck to be deposited in a savings account is that I have the potential to earn at least a 15% return on my investment.

Luckily, my company has been doing well, so it will be more than that when all is said and done.

If you do not have access to an ESPP, then definitely sign up for a percentage of your salary to be deferred into a high-interest savings account (such as ING Direct) each pay period.

Increase the deferral percentage periodically, or whenever you receive a pay increase.

This technique is extremely effective because you save the money before you are tempted to spend it!

4. Sell your car, or live closer to work

I couldn't bring myself to sell my car, the driving culture is too ingrained in me. I did ensure that I lived close to my job though.

I currently live 8 miles away. This reflects a desire to save money, as well as time (long commutes are draining). I can go two weeks on one tank of gas in my VW Jetta.

Given the increasingly high cost of gas, this should be a no-brainer.

Getting rid of a car altogether can save you on loan interest, insurance, maintenance, gas, parking, and car washes.

Plus, using mass transit, a bicycle, or walking are all better for the environment. If you need to buy a car (such was the case when I totaled my first VW in 2005), go pre-owned (aka " used").

You immediately avoid the instant depreciation that occurs with a new car, and reinforce the importance of your goal over a new automobile (which really boils down to a status symbol, right?).

5. Be conservative on your taxes

My suggestion here is to pay the government a little more than you may owe at the end of the year.

By doing so, you will ensure a refund once you file your taxes, versus potentially owing money.

I made this switch for the 2006 year, and was much happier to receive a $600 refund than having to pay as I did in previous years.

The counter argument here is that the government will not pay you interest on that money.

Using my 2006 refund as an example, even with 5% interest, I'd only be earning $30 off the extra money paid in taxes.

Considering this would account for 0.001% of my total financial goal, I'm not too concerned.

Plus, I'm setting myself up for a refund for the 2007 year, which I will receive once I've already quit my job and am on the road in 2008.

Bonus Savings Tip

Drive defensively

In my early 20's, I received four speeding tickets within 13 months.

My car insurance doubled from $900/year to $1,800/year.

It took me three years of slower driving, and no additional tickets, for my insurance rate to noticeably decrease.

Careful readers may note my mention of an auto accident under tip number four.It was my fault, however I was shocked to find out that Progressive didn't raise my rate because it was my first accident.

Next week I will touch upon some smaller, day-to-day ways to save money.

Travel Dispatch from Vietnam (circa 2001)

I was sitting in my work cubicle, three years into my my first post-college job, when one of my good friends sent me the email below. I can remember my blood boiling with envy and jealousy as I read it. I don't have a record of my response, however I'm sure it was something to the effect of "just you wait, I'll get my chance to travel and then I'll be the one sending you such messages!"

----- Original Message ----
From: A Friend
To: Dave
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2002 11:39:30 AM
Subject: Vietnam.....

hey mr wannabe world traveler!

whats up?

At the moment, I'm held up in an Internet cafe in the middle of Vietnam waiting out a f*cking monsoon storm. Hopefully it will pass in the next 20 minutes but you never know!

Anyway, I have been traveling and thinking about how much you would LOVE S.E. Asia! Everything that backpacking in Europe USED to be, still exists here in S.E. Asia. The backpacking culture is MUCH MORE pronounced and finding reasonable hotels/travelers ghettos and the like is not only feasible, but quite often, the only way around. Today I'm in a little hotel in an alley run but a Vietnamese French woman for 3$!! Food here is supposed to be expensive and I average 2-3 a meal!! And that is at a nice sit down establishment!

Also, there is simply so much to see and do. There is a very well worn backpacker path and it is truly fantastic. You meet people all the time (though it is low season so it's a lot of older couples, at least in North Vietnam) and then bump into them again along " the path."?

From where I am, I will slowly go south and eventually reach Saigon. Then cut through Cambodia to Bangkok which is supposed to be the backpacker epicenter on the planet. Spend a few days there trying to be like Leonardo di Caprio (which apparently, everyone is) then off to the beaches. Trying to time it for a full moon party.

After a few weeks, I will go own through Malaysia into Singapore to more or less come home.

Anyway, bottom line-come here! It's great! Well, you won't find loads of hot women but everything else is fantastic. You still can find places where few tourists visit and travel can be a real challenge (e.g., China, where, if you don't speak the language, you are totally f*cked and have to rely on your wits to get around-of course, I only hear about this since I am Chinese).

Ok, the rain just stopped do I'm off!

k

Cambodia and The Killing Fields

I first became aware of Cambodia through a song by the early 80's punk band The Dead Kennedys. I was about 13, living in an upper middle class suburb in New Jersey. My friend Jeff introduced me to DK, and in turn, the song Holiday in Cambodia. I liked it because it poked fun at rich, preppy kids (yes, the irony was lost on me at the time), by comparing their normal life to Cambodia during the genocide of the late 1970's. Beyond the song, my knowledge was limited to an awareness that Cambodia was probably a dark, dangerous place. While our war with Vietnam was a topic for history class, I can't recall a mention of Cambodia in school, which seems odd given around 2 million people died during a 5-year period within my lifetime.

Fast forward to my mid-20's when I start to consider traveling to southeast Asia. I still didn't know much about Cambodia, except that it was sandwiched between a few countries I'd heard were popular on the backpacker circuit - Thailand and Vietnam. I had also begun to see Angkor Wat pop up in guide books. I figured I'd be in the area, so why not put it on my rough itinerary to visit. It wasn't until about a year ago that I watched a documentary about the Khmer Rouge's 1975-79 takeover. It was also last year when I saw The Killing Fields mentioned in a dialog on the BootsnAll message boards about travel-related movies.

On August 2, 2006, I recorded The Killing Fields. I held onto the movie for 9 months, purposefully avoiding it. I knew it'd be serious and sad, and it's far easier to watch comedies and vacuous TV shows instead. My attitude changed after watching this past week's episode of 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. Our intrepid hosts, Albin and and Melanie Ulle, visited Cambodia. They rode elephants to a temple to watch a sunset, walked around Angkor Wat, ate crickets, and toured the killing fields with a survivor. The city shots of Phnom Penh were just as beautiful as those of the rural areas, and the people seemed very proud of their culture. I wanted to go.

Later that night, I watched The Killing Fields. Based on a true story, journalist Sydney Schanberg leaves his translator/friend Dith Pran behind as Phnom Penh falls to the Khmer Rouge fighters in 1975. Syd returns to NYC, where he's haunted by the fact that he didn't ensure Dith's evacuation (as he did Dith's family), to the US. Meanwhile, Dith experiences the forced labor camps, and endless violence and brainwashing of Pol Pot's ethnic cleansing campaign. The story touches on the worst, and surprisingly best, of human behavior.

If you're as naive about Cambodia's recent history as I was, watch The Killing Fields, and you will appreciate your life a little more, regardless of how big your problems seem.

My First Day in Venice, Italy

Rialto Bridge in Venice, Italy

The following journal entry was written on Thursday, July 23, 1998:

When we arrived in Venice, I was still feeling ill. It was about 9 AM, and we had a full day ahead of us. After mulling around the train station a bit, we decided to find a place to stay right away. A man approached us from the Hotel Leonardo, who said he had a room for five people. Since it was only 10 minutes from the station, we decided to take it. When we got there, we found out our room was merely a double bed, with three single cots/mattresses wedged in. There was no room to walk. There was also a sink and a pisser in the room. Immediately after opening the window shutters, an Italian man across the alley from us began shouting at us. Apparently he didn't like Americans. Since none of us knew what the hell he was saying, we just ignored his adamant rants.

We got ready to go to the beach. Our first mistake was buying a 35,000 lire ($20) vaporetto (water bus) pass. They never checked us (or anyone else). This made me wonder if anyone else buys tickets besides tourists? The minute I had stepped out of the train station, I had fallen in love with the city. This was reinforced after my first vaporetto ride down the Grand Canal. San Marco and San Giorggio Maggiore were spectacular sights.

View of restaurant from our hotel in Venice, ItalyWe reached the beach after a one hour ride. Lido's main street had pink marble sidewalks from end to end. The street was also lined with gelaterias (ice cream stores) and pizzerias. We arrived at the beach a little before noon. The sky was cloudless, the sun hot. It was at least in the mid 90's. I knew I was going to have to be extra special in protecting myself from the sun. For this reason, I wore my hat (with 360 degree rim) at all times, except when in the water, my prescription sunglasses (in the water too), and plenty of sun block. When we left around 3 AM I had managed to survive the hottest part of the day with patchy sunburns on my face and legs. Except for a painful burn on my right ankle, I felt very lucky and confident. I don't think anyone else brought sun tan lotion.

The beach had lots of small shells on it, and seemed relatively clean. We settled on a small section of public/free beach. There was a giant luxury hotel (former palazzo probably) to our right. Both sides of the free beach were lined with cabanas and umbrellas for as far as the eye could see. Apparently, the hotels on Lido's beach attract a wealthy and elitist clientele. It seemed like the locals were mostly on the public beach. One of the first things I noticed was the openness of women to sunbathe topless. It didn't really shock or surprise me, but it did provide for some nice views. Luckily, however some people stared a lot more than me (I never stared, just glanced)! There were very few one piece bathing suits, and plenty of Speedos on the guys. Like everywhere in Europe, the people of Venice appear much thinner than Americans. Both males and females are dark (olive) skinned with dark hair. The fashion seems to revolve around sandals, comfortable/thin dresses, and the color black.

Venetian SinkThen we got back from the beach, we showered. There was a bathtub and detachable shower head, which only reached to the chest level of one's body. I showered kneeling down, and tried to get the hang of such a method. Eric had gone in before me and had sprayed the entire bathroom with water (he tried to shower standing up). The sink had a foot peddle you used to control the water. I assume this is so you don't have people turning knobs with their recently soiled hands.

We went to dinner at an Italian restaurant down the block from our hotel, the Friggatorio. There, the meals seemed cheap for what you got. I was the only one who did not order a three course meal. After dinner, we sat at the end of a canal to watch the sunset. It was extremely beautiful. The sun seemed to create a red/orange glow along the canals and buildings. Perhaps the best part of Venice is the lack of noise. There are no cars (except on the island of Lido), and the Venetian lifestyle appears to have changed little in the past 1,000 years. Upon nightfall, I decided to go to bed, since I was sick and tired. The sun and heat managed to drain my energy quite easily.

_______________

For all journal entries, go to Backpacking in Europe

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Dave at Ahu Ko Te Riku on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile.

Hi, I'm Dave

Editor in Chief

I've been writing about adventure travel on Go Backpacking since 2007. I've visited 68 countries.

Read more about Dave.

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