Blog - Go Backpacking

Missing My Flight Home

Sunday, August 30, 1998

I woke up ready to go. Unfortunately, I drank some coffee and hot chocolate. Instantly, I felt bowel problems. And since I haven't learned to go to the bathroom at the right times yet (like when I'm on a train, and I wait till the station, even though I know I'll have to pay to use the toilet there). The point is that I couldn't find a decent, clean toilet at the train station or airport. So I decided to wait for the airplane bathroom. Keeping this in mind, I noticed that my flight number wasn't listed in the place it should be. To make a long story short, I missed my flight because I hadn't called the airline number to confirm the flight time. The flight had been moved from 3 PM to 10:15 AM. Even worse, it had been delayed at the airport until 1:30 PM, but I couldn't get on because of security reasons.

I eventually met up with Bill there. I also found six other people that had missed the flight. By this time, I was tired, angry, and mad that everyone was smoking in the (charter) terminal. I gathered unsure information. Bill and I then went to the main terminal. Apparently we had been in T9 the whole time, a terminal for charter flights only. This explained a lot. The best price quote I could get was $600 for a round trip ticket to Washington, DC for tomorrow afternoon on a United Airlines flight. I figured part of the cost would be offset since I wouldn't have to travel from Boston to DC. I knew I was going to have to buy a ticket, but decided to go see if there were any new developments in the morning. We left, unable to find a TransAir office, or any definitive information.

We went back to the Woodstock hostel for the night. Many of the same people were still there. It turned out to be a good night. I got Thai food for the first time. Chicken with peppers, pineapple, and rice. I actually ate some of the red bell peppers, after being convinced that they weren't hot. Bill was out of money. He had traveled to Switzerland, Belgium, and England. He also met a lot of girls. After exchanging experiences, I realized how alone I had been for the second part of my trip. Anyway, I drank some beer and talked with many fine people, including two German guys who were entertaining. It started off when I noticed one of them playing with his fish skeletons (Thai food).

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Ben's Chili Bowl - A Washington, DC Landmark

Ben's Chili Bowl was born in 1958 and Washingtonians have been thankful ever since. Over the past few years, I'd heard it's name associated with stars such as Bill Cosby, and finally decided to see what the buzz was about.

Located in northwest DC, along the U Street corridor, Ben's Chili Bowl has watched the neighborhood around it gentrify and develop in recent years. The Starbucks and metro entrance across the street is a fitting contrast to the historical chili joint which began serving customers when U Street was once known as the "Black Broadway" due to all the jazz clubs. As noted on the history page of Ben's Chili Bowl website:

It was not uncommon to see such luminaries as Duke Ellington, Miles Davis, Bessie Smith, Ella Fitzgerald, Cab Calloway, Nat King Cole, Redd Foxx, Dick Gregory, Martin Luther King Jr., or Bill Cosby at " the Bowl."?

Stepping into the Bowl around noon on a beautiful Saturday afternoon, I wondered whether I'd be in for a wait to get my food. The restaurant had clearly marked instructions to line up, order your food, and pay before taking a seat. It only took a few minutes for me to order and pay, despite the place feeling and looking quite busy. I went with Ben's Original Chili Half-Smoke, a side of fries, and a Diet Coke, which totaled $10.

I grabbed a seat at the end of the counter, by the jukebox which was blaring. A college football game was on TV in the corner, above a small sink. There were giant metal canisters around the sink, and before I could give too much thought to whether employees actually use it, I saw one use it, and refill the towel dispenser to boot. I flipped through a copy of Washington's weekly City Paper, and about 5-10 minutes later, one of the servers brought over my meal.

While it's hard to see in the photo above, there is a jumbo hot dog under all that chili, and it was split in half and grilled further, before the addition of mustard and onions. The potato chips and fries were standard fare, though a nice compliment to the main attraction. Next time I'd skip the fries altogether because the serving was too large for one person. The Chili Half-Smoke is served with plastic utensils, however I was easily able to pick up the bun and eat with my hands (though I did manage to spill chili on my shorts).

Americans know how to make a darn good hot dog, and Ben's is no exception. Despite the slathering of delicious and slightly spicy chili, I was able to taste the flavor of the dog beneath it all, and it was one of the best I've ever had. The atmosphere was lively, with a mix of eat-in and take-out customers rotating through the restaurant. The staff were upbeat and friendly. Their menu offers several vegetarian options, including chili and burgers, and the breakfast options are plentiful.

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Ben's Chili Bowl is located at 1213 U Street NW, Washington, DC (between 12th and 13th Streets), across from the U Street/Cardozo metro station. Phone: 202-667-0909. Hours: Mon-Thurs 6am-2am; Fri-Sat 6am-4am; Sun noon-8pm.

Absinthe and My Last Day of Work

And the survey says.....I will be taking a shot of the green fairy on my last day of work! I recently moved the big day up to Thursday, November 8. Thank you to everyone who voted on this serious topic!

Back in 1998, I visited Prague where Absinthe is readily available, though I didn't get a chance to try it. Ironically, it was at a coworker's party a few years ago in northern Virginia that I took my one and only shot. I remember it was very strong, and reminded me of Rumple Minz (100 proof peppermint schnapps).

Still, the prospect of video recording my experience leaves me with a few butterflies, though I'm sure they'll quickly die of alcohol poisoning once I down the liquor!

Which occasion should I celebrate with a shot of Absinthe (140 proof, I will post video)?

Last day of work (~Nov 13) (35%, 8 Votes)
31st birthday (Sept 25) (30%, 7 Votes)
Giving notice to resign at work (Oct 4) (17%, 4 Votes)
Last day in USA (~Nov 27) (17%, 4 Votes)
Last night in apartment (Nov 2) (0%, 0 Votes)

Total Voters: 23

My Last Night in Europe

Saturday, August 29, 1998

Leaving Canterbury for Dover, England

I woke up this morning after some really cool dreams. One involved me and several beautiful women; another was about how the two Japanese students won a major international award. Sometimes dreams feel so real while they are happening (which in reality might only be a few seconds). Often, I'll wake up with a quick lapse of not knowing whether or not it was reality or a dream. The night before I visited the Cliffs of Moher, I had a dream that people were jumping off them (the cliffs). I wanted to join them, but couldn't (too scared). The next day when I went, I saw people walking along the out-of-bounds area, and I overcame my fear of heights, and joined them. Coincidence? Parallels? Psychic dream?

Anyway, I was awoken around 8:30 AM to a full English breakfast cooked by (Karen?) Connolly, the B+B keeper. Sausage, egg, toast, beans, and coffee. It was great! Served in her dining room. She was really nice, and kind of motherly. It seemed like we (her travelers) were surrogate children. It was a nice experience staying there. I'm currently waiting two and a half hours for the hovercraft. I just got an awful tasting cappuccino at the terminal. I can't seem to get a connection (phone) with any of the Paris hostels, so I'll have to call in Calais, France. I'm a little worried that I'm going to have to pay a lot for a room. If that is the case, I might just spend the night at the airport.

It looks like I'll actually be on budget for the first time in two weeks. My most expensive week turned out to be the one full week in Ireland. Second most expensive was the week (and travel) in London. So I was on budget for five of the seven weeks. It also turns out that I will have two full days of travel left on my Eurorail pass. Since I bought that erasable pen, stretching it has been a lot easier. Especially in Ireland, where they don't even punch the ticket. Unfortunately, the train services are not as widespread as in the rest of Europe.

Riding back through Dover, I got a better look at the white cliffs. Perhaps if there weren't a city below, they'd be more impressive. Apparently the channel is more traveled on weekends (which makes sense). Still, I'll be waiting, just as I am now, in Paris to go home.

Returning to Paris, France

I got to Paris after a three and a half hour train ride. I reserved a bed at the Woodstock hostel. The train ride went slowly after a family of six, with four kids, entered my compartment. The kids were just a little too loud for me. It took about ten minutes to get to the hostel via metro, which will be great to use in the morning . When I got there, the Beastie Boys "Hello Nasty" was playing (and right after I had just listened to the whole thing on the train). I emptied my bowels, and washed my face. After I had seen the beer in the common room, I was anxious to drink myself to sleep. I also wanted to see how the draft tolerance I had built up in the United Kingdom would compare against eleven ounce bottled beer.

I'm drinking my first Heineken since Amsterdam (I think), and it isn't as good as I thought. Therefore, I'm changing my official beer to Kilkenny because it was such a nice surprise. It is nice to be back in a hostel filled with young people. Ireland's were nice, but they were more family oriented, with a mostly (all?) no alcohol policy. While I set up to drink myself to bed, I plan on writing in this damn journal. All my thoughts in stream of consciousness form will be put down, regarding my trip. Are you ready?

I'm too busy drinking right now to write. I can say that the 25 cl (like 8 oz.) of beer in the Carlsberg and 1664 bottles really sucks! I had plenty of Francs to spend. There is a black cat here. I petted him for a bit, but when I touched him while he was licking himself, he bit, and then hissed at me! This hostel makes me not want to leave Europe. Both this hostel and the Aloha have gas tank frames in their common room, coincidence? I'm so glad the two people working here are drinking right now!

Since I'm already buzzed, I'm likely to talk about anything (so Dave Lee, in 20 years, I hope you and your wife and maybe your eldest child are entertained by this). One of the guys working here is turning 24 on this Saturday night. This explains why his favorite band, Soul Coughing, is playing and why he is drinking (and why the same song, "The Bug" is on repeat). There is ½ a Volkswagen Bug on the wall, with a couple of black lights in the windows. I just found out that they serve whiskey at another hostel in town, the 3 Ducks.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

National Air Force Memorial

Every day I drive to work or the supermarket, I pass by the new National Air Force Memorial which was constructed last October in Arlington, on a hill just above the Pentagon. The memorial is 270 feet tall, evoking the "bomb burst" maneuver performed by the Air Force Thunderbird Demonstration Team. The three spires also symbolize the values of the Air Force - Integrity First, Service Before Self, and Excellence In All That Is Done . In an effort to see a little more of my home town, I drove the great distance of 2 miles to check it out up close.

The view of Washington, DC was great - you could see the National Cathedral, Washington Monument, Pentagon, Capital Dome, and planes flying past them all on the way to their landing strip at Reagan Airport. The memorial itself had a somber feel to it - with two opposing granite walls - each with a series of noble quotations from Airmen, and the dates of what I believe were wartime engagements by the Air Force. As I tried to look up the 3 spires, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe, such as a child might have watching airplanes fly. It was amazing how the memorial captured the spirit of flight!

I tried to take artistic photos, however I'm not quite sure I did the memorial justice. I bet professional photographers have a field day with it, especially during sunrise and sunset. Definitely a little out of the way in comparison to all the other monuments on The Mall, however worth the time if you're in the DC area.

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Read more about the memorial at the Air Force Memorial Foundation website.

Petzl Zipka Plus LED Headlamp

Flashlights have gone the way of the Dodo bird when it comes to backpackers' lighting gear of choice.

In May 2006, I came to this realization when I tried to use my trusted Mini Maglite on a pre-dawn hike to the top of Temple IV in Tikal, Guatemala to watch the sunrise over the awakening jungle.

I was staying at the Jaguar Inn, one of the three lodges inside the park...a park that turns off the electricity every night.

I first ran into challenges trying to use the bathroom with just a small flashlight.

The experience was later trumped by having to carry the thing on a 30-minute walk in the dark, followed by a very steep climb of the old, wooden staircase that leads up the temple.

I looked on with envy at my fellow travelers wearing headlamps. I could only use one hand to steady myself on the way up those stairs, while they had both, and far brighter light to boot.

As I continue to gather the few and essential items for my trip around the world, I was excited to purchase an LED headlamp and join the 21st century.

I headed to a local REI store and quickly found plenty of options in the headlamp section.

There were two options by Petzl, which I debated back and forth for 20 minutes. Headband (Tikka Plus), or no headband (Zipka Plus)?

Headband = security (+), adjustable mount (+), $5 cheaper (+), 78 grams/extra weight (-), extra size (-)

No headband (spring-loaded, retractable string) = 65 grams/lighter (+), smaller (+), easily worn on wrist (+), $5 more (-), no adjustable mount (-), questionable durability of retracting mechanism/string prone to fraying (-)

I found it difficult to make a decision, so I fell on the side of less weight is better, and went with the Zipka Plus, which uses a retractable, spring-loaded string to hold the headlamp to one's head, versus a normal stretch headband.

Both headlamps take 3 AAA batteries and are far more efficient than a regular flashlight.

Both models are water-resistant and have 4 settings (maximum - 100 hours life, optimum - 120 hours life, economic - 150 hours life, and strobe).

Below is my not-so-scientific comparison with the Mini Maglite on left, and Petzl Zipka Plus on right:

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REI.com offers the full line of Petzl headlamps and products, including user reviews and detailed expert advice.

The Tikka Plus (headband) retails for $34.95, while the Zipka Plus goes for $39.95.

Sushi and Sashimi Adventures in DC

If I'm going to work my way up to eating tarantula's and snake hearts in Asia, then high-end sushi is a good place to start my training in the bizarre foods arena. Yes, sushi and sashimi are still new territory for me and my palette. Inspired to expand my horizons, I was excited to meet up with some friends last weekend for a delicious meal at Sushi Taro in the Dupont Circle area of Washington, DC.

To really throw caution to the wind, I joined two friends in ordering the $42 Chef's Omakase (selection). We had no idea what was coming! My friends ordered the sashimi version (without rice), while I still felt the need to have my seafood grounded in grains.

Pictured above was my 18-piece entree, which included: sea eel (upper left), shrimp, fatty and medium tuna, sea urchin (upper right), salmon, salmon roe, mackerel, assorted rolls, and a few more fish I can't recall. On my first bite, I was reminded of the nasal-clearing wasabi that is often used as glue between the fish and rice. All in all, I enjoyed most of the fish. The sea urchin's texture was very soft, and dare I say silky. I couldn't bring myself to put the whole thing in my mouth at once though (baby steps). The sea eel was cooked a bit, and not my cup of tea. I was surprised when I found the salmon eggs would individually pop like balloons in my mouth, releasing a salty liquid like a little gift.

My friends' sashimi entrees held the real action - shrimp heads, and a full, fried, palm-sized fish skeleton. One of my friends easily chomped down on the whole fish, while the other couldn't bear to take a bite. As we were wrapping up, I felt it my duty to push my limits, so I took the uneaten fish skeleton and bit the head off of it. Mostly crunchy, it didn't really taste bad, or good. I felt a little bit of squishiness - perhaps the brain or eyeballs, however I found it quite edible!

I may eat these words later, however for now, I'm ready to eat some gnarly cuisine abroad!

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Large photo of my sushi

Large photo of fish skeleton

Backpacking Humor

Special thanks to my Dad for sharing this Zits comic strip with me. Enjoy!

Son: Taa-Daah! My life plan in four steps.

1. Play guitar in high school.

2. Play guitar in college.

3. Backpack around the world for ten years.

4. Retire comfortably.

Father: Um, I don't see anything in here about a career.

Son: It's just an outline. I'll fill in the minor details later.

Canterbury and Returning to Paris

Thursday, August 27, 1998

I woke up and got to the bus stop in time to choose between the Dublin bus and the Galway bus. I chose to go to Galway, and try to catch a train (which would be free w/Eurorail). I ended up missing the train by thirty minutes. I decided to catch the next bus. By now, it had already been a long day of traveling.

I decided to go for London and skip a final night in Dublin. I did get my souvenirs: 1 can of Guinness, 1 can of Kilkenny, 1 can of Carlsberg, a small bottle of Jameson Irish whiskey, 2 Guinness pint glasses, and a few more Irish music CD's and tapes.

I'm on the Stena Ferry now, which doesn't carry buses (like the other one I was on), but is twice as fast. Instead of three hours, it is only one and a half. This one is even more luxurious than the other, with more bars, gambling tables, and even a McDonald's. I just lent my headphones to a guy who said he would be bringing them back soon. It has been about ten to fifteen minutes, and I'm wondering if I'm too complacent to go ask for them back.

Well, I got my headphones back only because I caught the guy before he left the boat. I ended up getting an empty seat next to me for the bus ride to London. Just a little extra room to stretch out. I took my sneakers off for a bit. Wow, the stink was awful. But I don't really care at this point.

Friday, August 28, 1998

It is hard to tell how much sleep I got on the bus, probably three to five hours. I've decided to stay in Canterbury, England for the night and Paris for my final night. I'm really over budget right now. Therefore, I'm looking forward to going home with extra urgency. Spending money to see Ireland is one thing; to spend four days getting home is another. Suffice to say, I had no will power when it came to sticking to a budget. I've been traveling for 23 hours straight! I'm happy to get some sleep this afternoon.

I arrived in Canterbury and called the hostel. There were rooms, but they said that I couldn't make it to the hostel before it closed for the afternoon in ten minutes. This pissed me off. By the time I figured out where the hostel was (I needed to see a map), it was too late. And it turns out that I probably could have made it. I took a rest in a park, and decided to walk around (w/pack).

As I walked toward the hostel (to wait for it to reopen), I came across a $15 bed and breakfast mentioned in "Let's Go." There was no lockout, so I decided to go pay so I could sleep. It was really a nice place. I stayed in a two bunk room with shower and toilet, and a TV. There were two Japanese students there too. I really enjoyed talking to them, as they enjoyed snowboarding, punk music (and the Beastie Boys), and Sony's Playstation. I took a three hour nap, only rising so I could see Canterbury Cathedral (and I didn't want to mess up my internal clock).

I made the mistake of paying to see the ruins of St. Augustine's Abbey. There wasn't much to see, and the hand held audio tour was boring. I went to the cathedral, which turned out to be free after 4:30 PM, so I guess it balanced out. The interior really impressed me, especially the architecture of the sculptures and courtyard. There were also some really amazing stained glass windows. I went back to the room since I was quite tired. As I learned in Doolin, it is hard to enjoy yourself while longing for rest. I watched a few episodes of Cheers, the Cosby Show, and Friends.

I can't believe people leave their trays behind in McDonald's and Burger King (and other fast food restaurants). This means the places have to hire more people just to clean up!

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Caving in Belize's Actun Tunichil Muknal

Mayawalk tour group in front of hourglass-shaped cave opening

For most people, Belize conjures images of crystal clear Caribbean waters and world class diving, however in May 2006, I discovered the interior jungles are filled with mystery and adrenaline-pumping adventures.

The highlight of my two week backpacking trip through this unique country was a 3-hour cave tour of Actun Tunichil Muknal ("ATM"), also known as the Cave of the Stone Sepulcher. The Mayans used the cave over 1,200 years ago for ritual sacrifices.

Ladder we climbed to final chamber in cave

The expedition began with a 45-minute drive from San Ignacio, a city near the western border with Guatemala, to the entrance of the park which contained the cave. Our eight person group hiked for 20 minutes along a jungle trail, wading across three streams, until we arrived at a staging area used by Thomas Miller, the archaeologist who discovered ATM in 1986. It consisted of a campfire site, outhouse, and small roofed area.

We donned our helmets and headlamps, climbed down a small bank, and began to swim upstream into the ominously dark, hourglass-shaped entrance of the cave. After a few minutes, the headlamps were our only source of light, while the cool water being splashed around was the only sound.

Walking single file, my eyes were consistently focused on the foot placement of the person in front of me. Twisting an ankle or falling on the slippery rocks was a real danger. Our guide navigated us through spaces small enough to confound a contortionist.

Eventually, we arrived upon a giant boulder, which we climbed up in order to reach the dry chambers containing ancient Mayan pottery and remains. Due to the sensitive nature of the archaeological site, we were all required to wear socks, which were sopping wet by this point. Great care was given to walk only where our guide walked, as we navigated through the eerie chambers of stalactites and stalagmites.

The ultimate reward for our efforts was the opportunity to climb up a 12-foot ladder to a small chamber containing the full, calcified skeletal remains of a young woman who had been sacrificed to the Mayan Gods.

Calcified sacrificial remains of Mayan woman

This experience left me feeling like Indiana Jones. It was truly one of the greatest adventures of my life. Tour entries into ATM are timed so you rarely run into others. Group size is limited to about 8 people. Many tour companies across Belize offer trips to Actun Tunichil Muknal, however it is easiest to access from the small city of San Ignacio.

I signed up for a tour one day in advance, at a cost of $80, through Mayawalk Tours. The drive and cave guide were both excellent.

See all of my photos from backpacking in Belize on Flickr.

Key Dates Before Leaving the USA

Exploring the Aran Islands

Wednesday, August 26, 1998

I woke up and headed down to the ferry dock. The sky had cleared overnight, and it was only partly cloudy now. But, the sun was shining down on me. I boarded the ferry, noticing the water on deck. I ended up sitting on the side of the boat that got soaked by the rough Atlantic waves. After about ten minutes of getting wet, me and everyone else in the immediate area moved. I sat (alone) on a bench near the one I was just on. I was surprised at how well I felt. And the seas were quite rough, the tiny ship was tossed. Water rolled back and forth across the deck. I didn't mind getting wet. It all added to my rough seas experience. I know the trip out to the islands was bumpy because on the way back, the water was still, and the ride was smooth.

About ten steps after I got off the boat, I was reeled into a tour bus. I got in since it was going to all the attractions ($7.50). It turns out that most people bike the island. And at ten miles long, it is not too bad for a day's workout. The whole island was covered with miles of stone walls. The amazing part was how the rocks were all placed and balanced by hand. The fort was said to be at least 4,000 years old! I tried on a $135 Aran sweater, but didn't come close to buying it. Just too expensive.

I realized when I got back to the hostel that I was sunburned (in Ireland, no less). I took a three hour nap. I only got out of bed to check out McDermott's. When I got there (after checking out an amazing sunset), I was so tired. Even more, I had no money, only enough for a pint of cider. The band was really good, and for the first time, I saw a person playing a pipe/flute. Six people in all. There was no singing after the first two songs. Once again, I was forced to stand due to the crowd. Tired, I returned to the hostel for sleep.

As I walked back, in the dark, noticing the stars, I thought about how little had changed in that Doolin pub. There were travelers in the past, who could stop for the night and be entertained by a trad band. I thought about this for awhile, even as I went to sleep.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Shot Through the Arm, Yellow Fever to Blame

I made a third lunchtime trip to my local travel clinic in as many months on Wednesday.

I've got their whole routine down and found myself feeling more and more impatient with each visit.

I want them to give me the "shot of the day" so I can get the heck back to work.

The $98 Yellow Fever shot felt like all the rest. Unfortunately, my health insurance won't cover this one, as it's probably considered a "travel immunization," which is excluded.

At least I've got 100% coverage on all the others I'm getting as part of my preventive benefits.

I'm down to needing a third Hepatitis B shot (late October), and if I'm feeling frisky, the Meningococcal vaccine.

While the maps indicate the disease is only a serious threat in the middle of Africa, I was advised that sleeping in dorm-style rooms might be a sufficient risk to make it a worthwhile jab.

I have little interest in spinal meningitis, so I'll probably get it on my fourth and final visit to the clinic.

I also picked up a two-week prescription for Doxycycline, an antibiotic used to prevent Malaria.

I wanted to test it out while still in the USA to ensure I don't have any adverse reactions.

Next week, I'll share more about why I chose this drug over the three others (Chloroquine, Malarone, and Lariam).

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Additional Resources: SmarTravel Profiles on 220 countries. USA Center for Disease Control - Traveler's Health section. Immunization Action Coalition - Vaccination Information for Healthcare Professionals.

A Tale of Two Brothers

Until two years ago, I thought it was rather courageous of me to be planning to backpack around the world as soon as I could muster up the money. I was going to give an obscene gesture to "the man" and delve into the counter-culture of backpacking and the vagabond's lifestyle.

Then Jon, my younger brother, joined the Marine Reserves and my perspective on courage changed drastically. He knew he'd be going to Iraq when he joined, yet he did so anyways out of a sense of duty to his country. I use to think such words were cheesy and vapid, until I sensed the sincerity behind them after he joined (while trying to justify the action with his petrified older brother and parents).

Last week we received an e-mail from him after he arrived safely in Kuwait. Two days later was his first e-mail from Iraq, which was surprisingly upbeat. It's the 16th country he's visited (he's ahead of me in that regard, though not for long). Below is an excerpt:

Funniest thing so far: Immediately after landing in a combat zone, we stand in line to receive our linens. Some of them are pink, tinker bell sheets.

Regardless of your thoughts on the war, please keep our soldiers, and the innocent people of Iraq in your thoughts and prayers. I know I will.

The Last Temptation of Work

Last Summer I faced a tough choice when deciding upon a departure date.

I could plan to leave at the end of 2007, thereby missing the busiest period of the year for my department and company, or I could leave in early 2008, after qualifying to receive a 10% annual bonus.

Ultimately, I realized if I could meet my savings goal by the earlier time frame, it'd be best to hit the road.

If I continued to stick around, I felt as though there was an increased risk of something occurring to derail my travel plans. S

o far, I've been very happy with my decision.

My employer's new CEO believes in the importance of providing quarterly updates on our company's performance as it relates to the annual bonus.

Updates are based on actual results and projections for the remainder of the year.

I received the 2nd quarter update last week, and was reminded of how much money I'm passing up by leaving the company before 12/31/07!

I've found it somewhat easy to be cavalier about leaving my job, however, it's a lot harder to feel that way when I think about the salary and benefits I'm leaving behind.

After all, I've been working my way up the food chain for the past 5 years. C'est la vie! (aka "That's life!")

When money is taken freedom is forsaken. -- Proverb

Money makes a good servant, but a bad master. -- Francis Bacon

Money has never made man happy, nor will it, there is nothing in its nature to produce happiness. The more of it one has the more one wants. -- Benjamin Franklin

A Video Introduction

Inspirational Interlude

The golden opportunity you are seeking is in yourself. It is not in your environment; it is not in luck or chance, or the help of others; it is in yourself alone. -- Orison Swett Marden

The quote above rang true for me when I came across it in a journal I received as part of my company's 2-day culture shaping workshop. I've often used quotes as motivational tools for staff, and myself, and I drew an instant connection between the message in this one and my solo backpacking trip.

I interpret it to mean the growth and personal potential I hope to realize is within my power to achieve, and not by a simple change in physical location, the luck of the Irish, or support of others. I have the power to realize my full potential here and now, in my seat, at my computer desk in Arlington, Virginia, USA.

Of course, I think it'll be a heck of a lot more fun to "be here and now" while sipping a Capirinha on the beaches of Rio de Janeiro!!

Walking Along the Precipitous Cliffs of Moher

Tuesday, August 25, 1998

I decided to spring for another bus ticket ($15) to get to the Cliffs of Moher. The bus trip went by fairly slow. We got to take a car ferry for 20 minutes too. It turned out that the bus changes drivers (and has a layover of 1 ½ hours) at the cliffs. This ended up being the perfect amount of time to explore. When I got there, the weather (not the sky) was clear. Then, fog and clouds covered up the cliffs, and then it cleared a half hour later. As I was leaving, the visibility was less than 100 feet. I thought this constant change created an interesting effect.

Though I was a little weary, I decided to walk along the edge of the cliffs. It was very exhilarating, and I was proud of myself! It was the first chance on my trip that I got to climb around/up and down rocks. The scene reminded me of Friedrich's "Monk by the Sea," a very spiritual painting showing man's insignificance in relation to the size and power of nature. I took several pictures, but there is no way they will be able to convey what it felt like to be engulfed in the mist of the Atlantic.

I ended up hopping off the bus in the lower village of Doolin, the unofficial trad music capital of Ireland. I walked down to the shore where I got my first glimpse of the small ferry I would be taking to the Aran Islands. It was being tossed all over by the sea. At this point, I seriously considered changing my plans. I decided to think about it. Then I decided that if I never got the chance to come back, how could I skip these islands. Plus, if I didn't go, I would have to leave Doolin because there would be nothing to do during the day.

On the way back from the coast, I stopped at O'Connor's Pub. This was the first of the two venues for the "world class trad" music I would see. It was populated with a good mixture of locals and tourists. I decided to check out the other pub in the upper village (15 minute walk). McDermott's had about ten to fifteen people (including staff). The decor included signs like "if I wanted to hear an asshole, I would have farted." The other bar had foreign currencies and police/fire badges on the walls. At this point, I decided to hit O'Connor's for the night. I ended up not getting a seat, as it was crowded, and I was kind of bothered by the fact that they didn't do any singing. I left early, though the music was good (and original too).

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

99 Days Until Departure

As the Countdown Timer to the right indicates, I'm 99 days from expected departure! When I first set the timer up earlier in the year, I believe it was somewhere just over 200 days. While that may seem like a drop in the bucket, in reality it has been an eternity!

The waiting this year has reminded me of the months preceding my first semester of college. After the excitement of high school graduation, I found myself unable to get a summer job. Having moved to Virginia two years prior, and not done a good job at making friends, I just kept telling myself I'd start a new (and more sociable) chapter of life once I arrived at college. In the meantime though, I was simply counting down the days.

This time around, I have a career and plenty of friends, however I once again find myself simply counting down the days until the next (and most adventurous) chapter in my life. I stay in during the weekends to prevent myself from spending money. I'm not pressing myself to date. I make do with the clothes I have, rather than buying new stuff. I tune out all conversations about high-definition TV!

Regardless of how successful I am at staying in the present moment these last 99 days, it'll all be worth it when I'm swaying in the breeze on a hammock in the South Pacific, and falling asleep on the deck of a felucca while sailing down the Nile River.

5 Common Approaches to Traveling the World

It's no secret I've decided to backpack around the world, heading west until I cover the approximately 24,900 miles which account for it's circumference. The idea of non-stop travel in one general direction for months, if not years, has an exciting draw to it I can't resist. That's not to say there aren't more accessible, though equally exciting, approaches to traveling the world.

1. One Country At A Time - With 194 countries in the world today, few people will reach them all in a single lifetime, yet visiting them one by one remains the most popular approach, at least in the United States. Pacing oneself at a trip, or two if you're lucky, per year can slowly build up one's experience abroad over the course of a lifetime.

2. Circuits - The world's geography can be broken up into circuits, or well worn backpacker trails, on each of the continents. Traveling by circuit usually requires more time and money, however the reward is a much greater sense of freedom. I experienced traveling my first circuit when I spent the Summer after college graduation backpacking around Europe (in a clockwise rotation from Paris). Currently, Central America and Southeast Asia are two very popular circuits due to beneficial exchange rates.

3. 'Round the World by Circuit - If the idea of non-stop, boots to the ground, travel seems less appealing, then consider a more unique strategy. The idea is to stop back at home between circuits. The duration at home can be as little as a few weeks to rest, relax, and rebuild stamina or health, or longer to earn more money. Last year in Guatemala, I met a Brit who spent 6 months working, followed by 6 months traveling a different circuit, each year. He had taken this approach for 5 years in a row!

4. Non-stop 'Round the World - The ultimate option in terms of freedom, traveling around the world non-stop is for those who truly have a passion for being on the road, and can effectively manage the added physical, mental and emotional stresses that go along with it. The world is your very large oyster!

5. Employment/Education/Volunteering - Possibly the smartest approach to seeing the world, if you can swing it, is to work, learn, or volunteer abroad. Such a strategy can allow you to use your new home base as a launching pad for exploration of the countries in that circuit. Not only are you closer to the countries, thus making them less costly to visit, you are immersed in a new culture when not traveling! My friend Charlie has been living in China for 2.5 years, earning his living as a DJ, which allows him to work his way around China, while taking side trips to Russia and Southeast Asia in his free time.

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Travel Fear - Knackered Knees

Alliteration aside, I've been encountering knee pain as I've tried to increase my cardiovascular fitness the past few months.

It seems as though the atrophy of my quadriceps and tightness of my hamstrings have reached epic proportions in advance of a backpacking trip where I hope to scale mountains and trek the Himalaya and Andes.

At first, I couldn't believe the fact that I was experiencing chrondomalacia (an overuse syndrome, aka "Runner's knee") from trying to walk an extra 30 minutes a day (15-minute morning and afternoon breaks at work).

After all, I bought a nice pair of motion-controlled Saucony running sneakers this past Spring, and I couldn't be *that* out of shape at the young age of 30!

When the pain of needles stabbing the underside of my kneecaps didn't dissipate, I caved and went to a sports doctor/podiatrist I had seen 5 years prior when I was feeling the same pain after actually running several miles a day.

He gave me the same message he did back then - ice, isometric exercises, stretching, and wearing supportive sneakers 7 days a week. He said to give it 6-8 weeks of this routine.

I did, though didn't ice my knees much out of laziness, and am continuing to feel the pain 3 months later.

Over the weekend, I started to feel down about it. I keep trying to picture what it would be like if I take off on this trip around the world, only to find myself in chronic pain from simply walking a lot!

And my plans for a 3-week trek of the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal would be squashed like the cartilage in my knees.

Eventually, I picked myself out of this downward spiral when I went to meet Ed, a local Virginian who had mentioned 'round the world travel on a recent post to the BootsnAll message boards.

When I returned to my apartment, I decided to double my efforts to improve my poor knees:

icing them twice a day
increasing the number of daily stretching exercises
start wearing my custom molded orthotics again
take the full recommend dosage of Glucosamine/Chrondroitin/MSM supplement (vs a lesser amount to be cheap)
limiting my walking until I'm in better shape

I'm hopeful this will be something I can easily get past if I commit to all of these steps.

When I went to Costa Rica in 2005 and Belize in 2006, I didn't have any knee pain, despite a moderate amount of activity.

I think it can only help that a lot of my walking and hiking was on sand, mud, and dirt, which are notably softer than the concrete and asphalt jungles of modern America.

Storing Photos For The Road

A few weeks after getting my Creative Zen V Plus mp3 player, I've filled it with over 7 gigs of the best music I own, plus a few hundred more songs I downloaded from from Napster during a free 30-day trial. When I started to run out of A-list music, I turned to photos.

The player's screen is only 1.5 inches, so the quality leaves much to be desired, however I quickly set up and filled the following folders:

Friends and Family
Food - photos of tasty restaurant meals and home cooking
Just for Fun (aka Random) - satellite photo of my office building, totaled Jetta from '05, kickflip (above), etc
Sports - a few shots from DC United and NY Yankees games
Travel - some of my favorite photos from Washington, DC (home), Europe and Central America

As I transferred the photos, I realized the importance they may play for me on the road. In the olden days, I'm quite sure backpackers would carry a few photos of home and family to keep them company while away for long periods of time. Given we've entered the digital age, it makes sense to use the photo viewer feature of mp3 players (and digital cameras if you prefer). Also, I realized it will make it easier to share a little more about me with others (should someone feign interest of course).

Setting a bunch of photos to slide show mode, while a sappy song plays along, will surely be a comfort when I'm feeling lonely.

PS - When I bought the player, I thought I'd be able to store photos from my camera on it, as well as add music during my travels. While there is a drag and drop feature, the music, photos, and video I store in this manner will not be accessible from the player. Basically, it functions as extra storage capacity unless I have access to the Creative software.

The Ring of Kerry and The Rose of Tralee

Sunday, August 25, 1998

I awakened to the sound of rain pattering on the skylight. I decided to spend the day on the Ring of Kerry bus tour, despite the rain. I figure there has to be a rainbow and pot of gold for me out there. So far, the tour (despite feeling touristy) has been great. I tried my first Irish coffee, and it was great. I felt really ignorant when I didn't realize there was Irish whiskey in it. It just tasted so good. We stopped at a shepherd's home for a demonstration of his dogs. The two dogs (collies?) were so well trained, it was amazing. The sheep are crazy; they jump off cliffs and run up the mountain to eat their grass.

I think I like the cloudy weather. It is really neat to see the clouds and fog roll around and over the mountains. And the occasional rain shower adds to the effect. I have seen a few bits of blue sky, but I doubt it will clear up much. The rest of the trip was quite scenic, and the driver put on the "Celtic Moods" tape so we had some music too. I haven't written in here for several days, so I'm a little hazy on the events of the day/night. According to habit, though, I went to see some music, and got drunk.

Monday, August 26, 1998

I decided to stop in Tralee and check out the festival. For the first time, the train station didn't have any town maps. I ended up walking four times the distance necessary to get to the town center. But once I saw the lights hanging across the street, I decided to stay. Also, the Finnegan's hostel was right in the middle of the town. It was a little expensive ($15). I took a walk throughout the park, where there was a giant rose garden, hence the "Rose of Tralee" beauty pageant festival. The city was a little too busy/big for me. I caught the second set of a show by the Guinness Jazz Band. Since I have no idea what is good jazz, I can't report on their skills. They were playing a lot of music that I knew though. The drummer was only 15 too, so he definitely had some natural talent.

The night arrived, and the Guinness Gig Rig (18 wheel truck) opened into a stage. After checking the scene at the first act, I decided to find some music in a pub. The group I found was made up of two or three old guys. They were good, but I didn't have a seat, and was cramped under the speaker by the door. For that reason, I left and went back early (11 PM). Oh, there were some impressive carnival rides set up. The whole scene reminded my of the Grady Squash festival in "Doc Hollywood."

Earlier that night, I had decided to splurge and get a good dinner. I went to Finnegan's, which was in the basement of the hostel (though not associated with the hostel). The atmosphere was really nice. Dark, cool, quiet, green candles in wine bottles, peat fire. I got the following: gin and tonic, warm brown bread, onion soup, chicken kiev w/salad and potatoes, chocolate mousse and Irish coffee. It was delicious. With tip, it cost about $40. The whole experience was bettered by the older (50+) couple who sat next to me. They had been all over, China, India, South America, and Europe. They were from San Diego. There was a picture of JFK on the wall which makes me wonder if he had eaten there. Only know do I realize that he was Irish, and that might be the reason.

The room I was in sucked. When I came back at one point during the afternoon, my sheets were all wet! I couldn't get a warm shower in the morning. For the first time, I had to sleep on the top bunk. There was a guy who kept me up with his snoring and farting.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Coffee and Travel Talk

It's no secret I'm a huge fan of the Couchsurfing concept and website, so I was excited when I had the chance to meet up with Monika (a new couchsurfer and local Arlingtonian) last night for coffee and travel talk. As much as I am inspired by the written word and blogs, it still can't beat exchanging stories and experiences with another person who shares the same passion in life!

Monika had e-mailed me through Couchsurfing with some questions about my backpacking trip around the world, and it just so happened that she worked for The Travel Channel, so it seemed to be a match made in travel heaven. I gave her my copy of Wanderlust and Lipstick and she surprised me with a No Reservation's pint glass (which I promptly filled with a Guinness after getting home, in honor of host Anthony Bourdain).

We continued talking long after our coffees had been consumed. She was born in India, and had plenty of advice for me regarding that country, as she use to spend her Summers there after having moved to the United States as a child. My favorite experience though, was her 6-month tour of Europe as a Coca-Cola Ambassador. I didn't find out what that entailed, as I was hung up on the fact that it meant she could travel on the company's bill! She recommended Bratislava, Slovakia, for a sense of what an Eastern European city looked like from a Communist and Capitalist perspective (the division being a river through the city).

I especially enjoyed relaying my thoughts (and those I've read from others in the travsphere) about the various Travel Channel shows which I've watched, such as 5 Takes and 1,000 Places to See Before You Die.

Even if you have no desire to host travelers, or be a guest yourself, Couchsurfing.com is a great way to meet new people who share a common passion for travel!

________________

PS - Monika - Thanks again for the pint glass. It's one thing I *won't* sell before leaving!

David Beckham Debuts Vs. DC United

I know I'm supposed to be in hardcore savings mode with about 3 months until departure, however, I got caught up in the media hype surrounding David Beckham's arrival in the United States last month.

When regular (vs. season/group) tickets finally went on sale, all were sold out except the corner upper deck seats (and even those were more expensive than normal).

I decided to catch the game on TV until I received an e-mail from the Barra Brava fan club I joined earlier in the year.

They still had single tickets for sale in their dedicated section (center, closest to the field).

The game turned out to be one of the best I've seen or attended in my past four years of following DC United (and soccer in general)!

I'll try to describe the scene from within Section 135 of a sold-out stadium of 46,000 fans:

Barra section stood on seats (as always)
Constant songs and chants (foul language aplenty)
Drums pound non-stop
Flags waved - big and small
Despite sundown, oppressive heat and humidity have us sweating like pigs
DC's Brazilian, Emilio, scored the one and only goal - beer flies everywhere
Green smoke bombs cloud the air
Flashbulbs flicker as Beckham began warm-ups around the 35th minute
Torrential rain begins before halftime
LA Galaxy player gets a red card (ejected) in the 66th minute (dangerous tackle)
Beckham takes the field (after taking off shirt for the ladies) in the 70th minute
Beckham bends his first MLS free-kick (LA misses equalizing opportunity)

Hot dog - $3 / Midfield-row 7 seat - $35 / Watching a soccer great debut in a new country's league - Priceless!

Killarney and The Blarney Stone

Saturday, August 22, 1998

I packed up and left early. Took the 8:45 AM train to Blarney. I made the mistake of bringing my backpack with me. I had a nice hangover too. Plus, I decided to skip the shower. Actually, I thought I'd be showering a lot less on this trip. Blarney Castle is definitely the best castle I've seen. Part of this is due to the beautiful setting in the green hills, and the little streams flowing. I climbed up the very steep cantilevered steps to the top of the keep. I had arrived before most of the tourists, so I was up there with only about ten people. I have a feeling that it is hard to get up there when it is crowded, due to the narrow stairs. Anyway, the Blarney Stone was up there, and I saw a girl kiss it. It really looked gross, but apparently people of all ages do it. Climbing down the stairs with my pack was really cutting things close. There was a lot of graffiti on the walls. It was a very small, personal castle for tourists to visit.

After the castle, I went to the Rock Close, an ancient druid ceremonial piece of land on the grounds. I was really surprised by the sights, such as the Wishing Steps, Witch's Cave, and Druid's Cave. Some of the trees were over 1,000 years old. The druid ritual sites were over 2,000 years old. Very cool, and I was practically alone in the area. The whole garden/park is cool because it really encourages exploration. I found this out when I entered Badger's Cave and the castle's Dungeon (with my flashlight). Both were cool and damp. I went to the end of the Badger's Cave, I think. The Dungeon creeped me out though, and I didn't want to go too far in by myself. When I turned out my flashlight, it was pitch black. This made me think about those crazy spelunkers.

I'm on my way to Killarney now. I think Blarney Castle has revitalized my enjoyment of Ireland. I didn't really like Cork as a city. Too big. I've found it easier to eat fast food after a few pints. Needless to say, my bowels are up in revolt about my Irish diet. Oh, I bought my official Irish wool sweater today. I got it on sale, along with tape number one of Irish pub songs. Is every goddamn train smoking in Ireland? We pulled into the first station where we arrived twenty minutes late. Another train let off a whole bunch of kids. There train had been no smoking, so they all got onto my train quite excited about the rest of their trip. The train quickly filled with smoke and noise. I was pissed for a bit, as I gagged on the billowing smoke. Then I put my Irish pub tape in my Walkman, and was happy with what I heard. Plus, I took a piss. I saw myself in the mirror, with my new sweater on, and I looked about forty years older. Sigh.

The train arrived in Killarney about 1 ¼ hours late. For the first time in the British Isles, I had to go to a second choice hostel for a room. My thoughts about staying in the Rail station hostel were changed when I saw my room with skylight, and the large showers. I walked around the town, and started my pub crawl. I went to the Laurels Singing Pub in hopes of good trad music. Instead, I found myself among tour groups of senior citizens. I felt about 25 years younger than everyone else. A guy with a stomach as big as a keg of Guinness sang, and hosted the show. I got out after an hour (I had to get my cover charges worth of entertainment). The next pub was no better. The two girls and guy (old enough to be their dad) were not smiling or even enthusiastic, as they played their trad music. They actually brought me down. I ended up that the Beer Garden which is an outdoor courtyard (w/stage) surrounded by two bars. I finally got to hear some good music. Unfortunately, they finished up at 11:30 PM, so I only caught the end of the show. As I search for some down home traditional sessions, I'd probably be better off in a rural area. I went home drunk.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

The Last Kiss

Michael: I've been thinking about my life lately, and everything feels pretty planned out. There's no more surprises.

Last night I sat down and watched The Last Kiss, a Zach Braff movie which was released last Fall. If you enjoyed Garden State, then you'll probably enjoy The Last Kiss, though it's much heavier on the drama.

The plot revolves around 4 long time friends who face the age of 30 with varying degrees of commitment to the women in their lives.

Michael (played by Zach) - not married, girlfriend is pregnant, afraid of the future
Chris - unhappily married, with baby
Izzy - heartbroken over girlfriend who recently dumped him
Kenny - quintessential bachelor
Kim (played by Rachel Bilson of The OC) - college girl with a crush on Michael

Kim: Did you know that the institution of marriage was created when the average person lived to the age of 30

What caught my attention was the idea Izzy had to ride a motorcycle from his home town in Wisconsin to Tierra del Fuego, the southernmost tip of Argentina. He seemed set on the idea, and wanted Kenny to join him. Kenny, having just hooked up with a wild (in bed) girl from a wedding they all attended, brushed Kenny's suggestion aside stating how happy he was with his life. It was only later, after the girl surprised Kenny with an introduction to her parents, did he realize his fling was turning into a relationship (which meant it was time to join Izzy for an adventure). They ended up buying an RV for the drive.

As much as I'd like to see myself as the Michael of the group, I neither have a girlfriend, nor pretty college girls trying to pick me up at weddings. Perhaps this makes my decision to travel into the big world all the easier. Someday I would like to see myself married....with children. That someday is not today though! And it is not next year either! I've been fully committed to this travel opportunity that lay ahead of me, and it is full steam ahead (unless I run into Rachel Bilson sometime soon).

Kim: Having a crisis are we?
Michael: Do I look like I'm having a crisis?
Kim: Everyone I know is having a crisis. I know you're not supposed to get them until midlife but I think something's happening to our metabolism
Michael: Our metabolism?
Kim: [nods] Yeah, I mean the world is moving so fast now, we are all chasing something so fast that we start freaking out long before our parents did. Feel my heart.
[puts his hand in her chest]
Kim: Feel how fast it is?
Michael: ...that's a fast heart.
Kim: "˜Cause we don't ever stop to breathe anymore...
Kim: You gotta remember to breathe or you'll die.

New and Improved Route for Oceania and Asia

After getting a little frustrated trying to figure out how to approach Tibet from Nepal during the first 6 months of my backpacking trip around the world, I've come to develop a new and improved route. I had posted my quandary on the RTW branch of the Lonely Planet forum, and received some feedback which sent me in a new direction.

Without further ado...

New Zealand (fly, Dec 07)
Australia (fly, Dec-Jan 08)
Bali, Indonesia (fly, Jan)
Singapore (fly, Feb)
Hong Kong (fly, Feb)
China (overland, Feb-March)
Tibet (overland, March)
Nepal (overland, April)
India (overland, May)
Thailand (fly, June)
Cambodia (overland, July)
Vietnam (overland, July-Aug)
South Africa (fly via Bangkok, Aug)

The fact that I continue to make major changes to my route with less than 4 months go to underlines my desire to remain flexible. If I had already paid for a 'Round the World airline ticket and locked in certain cities, I would be hamstrung to them, or paying added fees to make changes.

PS - Counting this week, I have only 3 full weeks of work left before I submit my resignation. The rest of the weeks I have at least one half or full day off, or full-day trainings to attend. I've decided to give 4 weeks notice, as I expect the news will come as a BIG surprise to my boss and coworkers. I imagine my last day will feel something like college graduation. I can't wait!

Bhutanese Red Rice - A Surprise At the Supermarket

I know the United States continues to import more and more food from abroad, however I was surprised to come across 15-ounce bags of Bhutanese Red Rice at my local Harris Teeter supermarket the other day. Given the unlikelihood I'll ever visit that very costly little Buddhist country, I picked up a bag of the rice thinking at least I can try their grains.

When I put a cup of it in some boiling water, the red coloring immediately dyed the water blood red. I'm not normally a fan of heartier rices, however Bhutan did not disappoint! I added a little butter and salt to the cooked rice, and it was enough for a tasty dinner and lunch the next day.

Lotus Foods did a nice job describing the rice on the bag too....

Bhutanese Red Rice grows at 8,000 feet in the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan. Irrigated with 1,000-year-old glacier water in rich minerals, this premium heirloom rice is distinguished by its complex nutty flavor, and beautiful russet color.

So much of the experience of traveling to other countries is tied to their food. I'm ready to go buck wild once I hit Southeast Asia. Until then, I'll just have to keep cooking up my own Chicken Pad Thai!

What was the last food you were surprised to find at a local grocery store or market?

The Beautiful City of Kilkenny

Wednesday, August 19, 1998

I woke up this morning with a plan, check out and grab a train to Kilkenny. I hadn't looked at the train schedule, so I went at it blindly. I made the train about five minutes before it left. They didn't even stamp my Eurorail pass. This means lots of train travel (for me) in Ireland.

I ended up taking a very out of the way route to the hostel in Kilkenny, but I got a bed. I arrived during their annual Arts Festival. Though I wasn't interested in going to any of the exhibitions, there was probably an increased sense of energy among the people. The train ride was short, with beautiful scenery of farms, mountains, sheep, and cattle. So, Kilkenny is a pretty small town. It is really beautiful. The big flower pots along the street had at least ten different kinds of flowers in each of them. Very colorful. And all the storefronts were clean with new paint. I decided to leave the sights for tomorrow, and went for a beer.

The Pumphouse seemed like a college bar (with better beer). Though it was only 3 PM, it was quite crowded (all young people). I didn't really like it, too loud, or maybe because I didn't have anyone to talk to. Poster of Kurt Cobain on the wall. I left, crossed the street to my hostel, and took a nap. I rose to find some entertainment. I went to a bar that was having a trad session in an hour. I sat there thinking about how this quiet place is going to hold a bunch of fun soon. Left at 9:30 PM when after only one musician arrived, and the music looked far off. Went to a big bar called Matt the Millers. There, the Bottle Brothers began playing once I entered. They opened with Tom Petty, and hit several Eagles and about ten Simon and Garfunkel tunes. I requested the Byrds, but they didn't know them, then Bob Dylan. I didn't stick around to hear if they played my request. Took a short walk to the Pumphouse. The guy there recognized me from earlier (Carlsberg), and thought I had left without paying. It turns out that I had actually paid one of the other bartenders.

Thursday, August 20, 1998

I slept late because the room I was in was filled with older guys who all seemed tired. Went to Kilkenny Castle with a hangover. It was quite nice. I bought a ticket for an open air theater performance that night of "Much Ado About Nothing." I took the castle tour. It was really nice. Unlike Dover, the castle had been refurbished with original materials, art and furniture. Mailed postcards. Adidas athletic wear is very popular over here in Ireland, and England too. And not just the shirts, but the pants too (the whole outfit). I went on the Smithwick's Brewery tour, which turned out to be just a film strip and tasting (1 pint). But it was free. Next, I went to Smartmac's, which was an Irish owned fast food chain. I had gone last night and been satisfied with the meal. This time I felt sick afterwards. Took a nap before the show. It started to rain.

It ended up raining for the first half hour of the performance. The bleachers were filled with mostly adults. I knew I had read the play, but I had forgotten the plot. I ended up following it quite easily. Laughed a lot. The production and stage direction (lighting, music) was great. Much more fun than I expected. After the show, I went to sleep.

I planned to leave for Cork tomorrow. The trains are weird though, they only have a limited line service, so I don't know if I'll make it. Either way, I figure everything will be fine. I called home for the third time today. Spoke to mom. Heard a short update about President Clinton's problems yesterday on the train. He really has made some dumb choices (if this Monica Lewinsky allegation is true, most of them probably are too). It is a shame too, because he seems like a smart guy (2 terms of presidency at such a young age). Also makes me think that Bush, Reagan, and Nixon probably didn't face such private problems. Lots of Cadbury chocolate up in the United Kingdom.

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Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

The Challenges of Entering Tibet From Nepal

A few weeks ago, I was merrily collecting entry and visa requirements for the first few countries I intend to visit on my trip around the world. All was going well until I reached Nepal.

Monastery in Tibet (photo: hbieser, Pixabay). — Monastery in Tibet (photo: hbieser)

Getting into Nepal will be simple, as Americans can get a 60-day visa upon arrival. However, it didn't take long for me to find out that accessing Tibet from the Nepalese side (versus the Chinese side) as an independent traveler may be extremely difficult.

Visiting Tibet is very important to me. A few years ago, after reading the Dalai Lama's autobiography, I started to feel a great sense of sympathy and compassion for the Tibetan people and their culture.

It upsets me to hear, read, and learn about the human rights abuses that are occurring, the need for Tibetans to flee their land over the dangerous Himalaya (into India), and the increasing influence China continues to exert in the region.

The fact that a Tibetan's mention of the Dalai Lama by name can have them thrown in jail is appalling.

During my research, I came across a wealth of information about traveling in Tibet from an Australian. Tony Williams of Victoria, Australia, has built quite a resource for independent travel to Tibet.

Front and center is a recent warning in big red lettering:

Following some disturbances in April 2007, in May 2007 the "rules" for travel to Lhasa and the T.A.R. effectively changed, particularly as they affect independent travel. The situation is volatile and uncertain.

Essentially, "rules" that have been overlooked and effectively in abeyance for years have been enforced again, so that travelers on fully organized tours are the only ones officially allowed to enter the T.A.R.

T.A.R. stands for the Tibetan Autonomous Region. As I began reading through the information Tony had collected, it became clear that I was quickly moving out of my comfort zone and into the reality of a Communist country's paranoia.

A Chinese visa is required for entry into Tibet. The fact that the first rule he lists when applying for a visa is not to mention your travel plans to Tibet (as you will be denied) seems to illustrate the challenges I'll face.

It also seems apparent that a separate Tibet Tourism Bureau Permit (TTB) is required. When entering Tibet from Nepal, life can be simplified if you are part of a tour group (which takes care of a group visa and TTB permit on your behalf).

I am not opposed to joining a Tibet tour group if it will allow me to travel relatively hassle-free from Nepal to Tibet. However, Tony's information indicates that trouble and fees can ensue for travelers who want to continue to China (vs returning to Nepal) after the tour.

The Tibet forum on The Lonely Planet message board will probably be my best source of up-to-date information. Just yesterday, a traveler posted my concern about changing from a group to an individual visa once in Tibet.

The advice was not to get an individual visa for China from home, as it would be canceled at the Tibetan border (because you'll have a group visa, too). In addition, the responses indicated that converting your visa is not an easy task.

Before I spin myself and my readers in any more circles, I want to reaffirm that I will figure this all out and visit Nepal and Tibet in less than nine months. I hope you'll join me for this wild ride!

5 Tips For Telling Your Parents About a RTW Trip

If you've hatched the idea to take an extended period of time off after school, or quit your job to travel the world, though are nervous to tell your parents or loved ones, than this is the post for you.

1. Pick a Public Place - Your parents will be much more likely to respond in a dignified manner if you're sharing the news in a public setting. I let the news slip out at a delicious dinner with my parents at L'Auberge Chez Francois, a popular French restaurant in Great Falls, VA.

2. Share Your Plans During a Celebration - You are excited about your news. You may have been living with the dream for several years already, however your parents may not have a clue. By choosing a celebratory time, such as during a holiday get-together, you are automatically countering a certain degree of anxiety which will naturally arise. After all, your news may be against the backdrop of love, laughter, wine drinking, and presents. The aforementioned dinner with my parents at Chez Francois was to celebrate my 27th birthday.

3. Test the News on a Supportive Relative or Friend - Unless your parents are life long hippies, they'll likely find the idea of their son or daughter leaving the perceived safety of the homeland for the dangers of the world a bit scary. During my new age Aunt's visit to VA, I mentioned my travel plans over a Greek dinner. Her immediate reaction was positive and supportive. Hearing her encouragement gave me the added confidence to share the plans with my parents.

4. Emphasize the Positive - Parents fundamentally want what is best for their children, and more specifically, for them to be happy (at least that is the ideal). Chances are that if you're passionate about the idea of a backpacking trip around the world, this tip won't require extra effort. Ensure you have a few counterpoints to the typical concerns of cost, safety, and difficulty finding work upon return home.

5. Do It Sooner Rather Than Later - The sooner you share your plans with your parents, the more time they will have to absorb it all before you leave. While not a parent myself, I'm sure they would appreciate the time to let it sink in. Involve them in the planning, and you may find they quickly become your most ardent, proud supporters! This will come in handy when you line up their home as your de-facto residence upon return.

Good luck!

Capital One - My 'Round the World Credit Card

After scouring the BootsnAll Around the World and Vagabonding Travel message board for the ideal credit card, and finding recent affirmation of Capital One on Leave America, I decided to bite the bullet and apply for my first new, personal credit card in about 7 years.

The key motivating factor in picking Capital One was the zero percent fee on foreign currency transactions.

Most cards have at least a 1% fee which covers the cost of Visa money exchange fees, however, Capital One supposedly absorbs it (perhaps as a competitive advantage, which appears to be working!).

I believe the last personal credit card I tried to get was at a Best Buy, so I could put a car mp3 player on it (which I so desired at the time).

I remember being turned down instantaneously at the counter in the store. You know your credit is weak when a retailer turns you down.

Since then, and my decision to position myself to take 1-2 years off to backpack, I've greatly improved my credit score.

When I applied online for my Capital One Visa, my application was approved in seconds, I qualified for the one I wanted (No Hassle Miles Rewards), and received my highest credit limit to date ($20,000).

I had a moment of joy, which was soon replaced with the fear of going back into debt.

I am going to request they reduce my limit by 50%.

Card Benefits:

$0 Fraud Liability for any unauthorized use if your card is lost or stolen
No fees on purchases made outside of the United States
24-Hour Travel & Emergency Assistance
$100,000 Worldwide Automatic Travel Accident Insurance
Additional protection on your purchases with Visa^®'s extended warranty program
Emergency card replacement or cash advance if your card is lost or stolen

As I plan to open an E*Trade money market account (for my ATM access), the credit card will be strictly limited to the occasional airline ticket, and emergency back-up support.

I will pay it off monthly to help mitigate the variable 13.95% APR.

What's in your wallet?

In Dublin's Fair City

Monday, August 17, 1998

I got a bed in the first hostel I went to. I'm really beginning to doubt "Let's Go" when it comes to accommodation warnings during the summer.

I dropped my stuff off and went for a walk around the town.

The city is quite small for a capital; the average building is only four or five stories tall. St. Stephen's Green was really beautiful.

The weather this morning is quite cold. In fact, without my long pants and jacket, I'd be really cold.

I ate breakfast in a Johnny Rocket's diner (which I was surprised to come across).

For lunch/dinner, I went to the Porter House (my first pub in Ireland) and got a cheeseburger and two house pints for $15.

Moderation is hardly a choice for me while drinking English and Irish beers.

They are very filling, and I can't seem to drink them very quickly. This made me reflect on the cheap American beers.

They are so watery; it is no wonder people binge drink. I really drink Dublin and Ireland.

At night, I went to a few pubs, including Fitsimmons, where I stayed for the Trad(itional) Irish music and Set Dancing.

I knew what I would get with the band, but the three female dancers surprised me.

The bottom of their shoes have metal plates (like tap dancing), and it creates a thunderous sound when they stamp down on the small wooden stage.

They took turns doing solos and then would come back into unison. Meanwhile, I was only able to drink one more pint.

By 11:30 PM, I was halfway done with my pint of Breo (White Beer by Guinness) when the music stopped. I felt really guilty leaving the beer.

Like London, Dublin feels quite safe. The cops don't carry guns here either.

About five minutes after I got into bed, a girl came up (to my loft) and said she had just been assigned my bed.

After she went down to inform the guy that I was there, the guy came into my room and turned the lights on, and said I hadn't been put in the computer. I really don't know what he wanted from me.

Also, I did the rest of my laundry today. My sneakers smell so bad now that when I wear clean socks for just a bit, they stink by association.

Tuesday, August 18, 1998

This morning I headed out toward the Guinness Hopstore. The self-guided tour cost $4.50 (w/student discount).

It was a little less flashy than the Heineken tour, and you only got one pint of beer at the end (instead of all you could drink in a time period). They also seemed to have a lot of gift shop business.

After that, I headed toward Trinity College. The inner courtyard felt like an oasis/refuge from the noise and traffic of the city.

I made the stupid mistake of buying tickets to the "Dublin Experience" film and the Book of Kells.

The movie was really corny, and I didn't learn too much. The Book of Kells was thought to be one of the most beautiful manuscripts (and at least 1,000 years old).

Anyway, it seemed ok, but the pages on display didn't seem any more impressive than other manuscripts I've seen. So I went back to the hostel for a rest.

I headed out to get a head start on the night's drinking. I've started to collect coasters from all the bars. Back to Temple Bar (a cultural/hip district in Dublin).

I bought a ticket for the musical pub crawl. It was led by a guy (Anthony) who sang, played the guitar, and the bodhran, and a girl (Nell) who sang (one song) and played the fiddle.

She was cute too. Pierced belly and tongue, with a tattoo on her upper left arm, and short black hair.

She chain-smoked like crazy. There were a lot of people on the crawl. We went to three bars and sang some songs.

I managed to get quite drunk. Drunk enough to buy their CD for ten pounds ($15). For that price, I got it signed!

Afterward, I hung around and talked (and listened) to them for a bit. I asked for recommendations on where to go.

Nell mentioned Clare and Kilkenny. About one place, she talked about swimming pools that formed on the shore during low tide.

There were all different types: naked guys, kids, tourists, etc. I left shortly thereafter, at which point I forgot everything she had said so enthusiastically.

I decided to leave for Kilkenny in the morning.

_____________________

Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Meet the Needles

I picked up my second Hepatitis B shot ($80) and an adult Polio booster ($50) during a lunch break this week. A $15 office fee was tacked on to the cost of the shots, which brought the total to $145. Luckily, my insurance will cover the Hep series, and office visit. Unfortunately though, I'm running into an issue with getting a reimbursement in a timely fashion. As it turns out, I might have to ask my mom to help me account for my reimbursements one I've left (yes, I'm worried it'll take several months for the issue to get resolved).

If I could do it again, I would've anticipated a longer reimbursement time frame, and started getting the shots earlier in the year. All the immunizations I'm getting are good for several years, so it would've been fine to get them sooner rather than later.

Next month, I intend to get my Yellow Fever ($98) shot, followed by the third and final Hep-B shot in October (at least 4 months after the first shot). I will then be fully immunized against *some* of what's out there.

I've also decided on a Malaria drug, however I am going to save that topic for another day!

___________________

The Costa Rica Connection

Two nights ago I met up with my friend Stefan for some deep dish pizza and travel stories. We had only hung out once prior, in Santa Elena, Costa Rica about two years ago. Santa Elena is the little town outside the popular Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve. No, the guy in the photo above is not Stefan. I just decided to snap that photo of some random backpackers because it was so typical of our lives on the road - acoustic guitar, beer, hammock, and a pollo (chicken) joint across the street from the hostel.

So it was a little over two years ago that we hung out in the cloud forest, toured a cheese factory after an unsuccessful attempt to find a giant waterfall, and dined at that pollo place. Since then, we managed to e-mail each other the occasional update on our respective lives. Earlier this year, he sent me some of his experiences from India, which I promptly posted. And after his internship in Germany wrapped up, he bought a car in Philly, and swung through the Washington, DC area on his way back home to Phoenix, AZ.

Unfortunately, this experience was the exception, not the rule. Despite the best of intentions, I've found it rare that I'm able to connect with the guys and gals with whom I share some really great experiences abroad.

For example, in Montezuma, Costa Rica, I stood atop a 30-foot waterfall, asking that a guy snap a photo of me as I jumped off. He took the pic, and I wrote my e-mail address on a piece of paper the size of my pinkie. Needless to say, I never saw that photo. In Belize last year, I spent several days with a group of friends from Richmond, VA (90 miles from me). We swam, drank, snorkeled, ate, and fished together. It was a blast. I gave one of the guys my contact info, and never heard from them again. Earlier on that trip, I hung out with a couple of guys from the British army during their R&R. Before their sad departure back home, Darren gave me his e-mail address. When I got home, I tried e-mailing him, only to have the messages bounce back.

Does anyone else find this happens to them?

______________

PS - Stefan initially planned to camp during his cross-country drive to Phoenix, however he has found the CouchSurfing options so numerous, that he's taking that approach instead. In Alexandria, VA, he was staying with a doctor and his family (in the nice part of town). When I met up with him, he was using a mountain bike they had lent him for the day!

Creating the Ultimate MP3 Playlist

If I've been a little quiet lately, it's the fact that I continue to be consumed with the sheer amount of work involved in updating my music library, categorizing everything, and then selecting the 8 gigs worth of songs to put on my new Creative Zen V Plus MP3 Player. I feel like my right arm is about to fall off. I'm more than halfway there though, with 907 hand-selected songs already chosen to be part of the soundtrack to my trip of a lifetime!

Among the lucky artists set to accompany me....

AFI
Allen Ginsberg (reading "Howl")
Ben Harper
Bob Dylan
Bob Marley
CKY
Dinosaur Jr
Frank Sinatra
Green Day
Guns 'n Roses
Iron Maiden
Jay-Z
New Found Glory
Orbital
Paul Oakenfold
Sublime
The Pogues
Ween
....and many, many more

For those in the market for a new MP3 player, I am extremely satisfied with the Zen Plus. I felt a little blind buying it, as they don't really let you get your hands on them in the retail stores. It's super light weight, easy to operate, and fun to use.

The screen is a seemingly small 1.5 inches, however video plays pretty well on it. To (ahem) test it out, I transferred my TV interview. The odd part is that while the file was 30 megs, the compression increased the file size by almost 3x (to about 80 megs). Perhaps someone can help explain that to me? Otherwise, the FM tuner works well, it has line in recording (to get tracks direct from CD's), photo storage, on the fly playlists, and the ability to store data files (documents).

The only downside I can see is that it recharges based on a USB connection. Luckily, I have my eye on a power converter which includes a USB interface. Still, I could easily use up the whole 15-hour battery life on my first flight to New Zealand.

The Long Journey To Dublin, Ireland

Sunday, August 16, 1998

This morning I faced a day without theater. I dropped my bags at the bus station, and went up to Piccadilly. Once there, I went to the Pepsi Trocadero. Though I had stopped in a few nights ago, it was less crowded now. I went to see "Everest" in the IMAX Theater for $10. It wasn't worth it. There were some cool scenes, one or two moments of rumble and bass, but overall, it was a disappointment. I also played "Top Skater" and the "Lost World" in the arcade (for a $1.50 per game). The whole complex is a giant marketing tool for Pepsi, with about fifteen vending machines and the Spice Girls Next Generation X commercial song playing every five minutes. It is another cool and beautiful day in London. It should be even cooler in Ireland. I don't really think there are any touristy things I want to do for the rest of the trip. For that reason, I'm content with just drinking. I figured out that I went $150 over budget for my six days in England. However, that does include $80 in round trip train/bus/ferry tickets.

Whoops! It seems I made an expensive mistake by not doing my travel homework. It seems Eurorail pass holders get to use a day for the ferry ride to Ireland, plus use of the trains (in Ireland). Oh well, live and learn (I say this while drinking dome really good beer). I've had so many different types of beer and cider that I can't even bother to keep track. There have been the good and bad of each type of drink. I think it is cool that the cops don't carry guns. GUNS SUCK! It is definitely part of America's downfall/ignorance. I can't imagine how much safer life would be if they were not as common. So much less death?!

I've really been enjoying watching the people and life of London (especially from a pub window). I also think that it is funny that I'm leaving London without any pictures (by choice, no less). I'm definitely disappointed that I didn't meet any English girls; they appear to be quite cute. I've got some postcards to mail. It has been awhile but oh well. I've been thinking about myself more than others lately. Puff Daddy, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Kate Winslet are going to Dave, Courtland, and Eric respectively. Oh, I forgot to mention that I saw some skaters outside the Royal National Theater. What seemed so cool was the fact that nobody had kicked them off the property. I'm really pretty tired right now, and I think I'll be able to get some good sleep on the trip to Dublin. Before I leave London, I'm going to go to an Internet cafe. I'd like to check my email, but more especially, I'd like to find out more about the festival in Belgium. Have I mentioned how much I like London yet? Like I expected, England (the Clash, Beatles, Sex Pistols) is pretty cool! And the weird thing is I have yet to receive a warm, non-carbonated beer. Maybe I'm just in the touristy area or just not ordering authentic English beer. Another nice thing about London (and Europe in general) is not getting carded for a drink. Actually, it is really pleasant. I'm starting to miss skateboarding and driving (my car).

After hitting the Internet, I decided that the concert wasn't worth the trouble since it wasn't in a major city. Instead, I'll spend the extra time in Ireland! I was kind of disappointed to find that nobody had emailed me. As I rode out of London on the bus, I realized how big the city was, and how little I had seen. I did decide that Leicester Square and Piccadilly Circus were the rocking part of town. This bus has turbo charged, overhead air vents. Really, when I thought of "ferry," I pictured basic seating on an old iron boat (or at least something like the vaporettos). Right now, I'm aboard a luxury Irish Ferry sipping a pint of Kilkenny on the Sky view deck, looking forward to watching the sun rise over the Irish Sea in a few hours. I also can't believe Dave (or Sam) would choose to leave such awesome opportunities behind? It is slightly chilly though. I feel like I'm on the Titanic. This is the biggest and nicest boat I've ever been on (which is hard for me to believe). I'm definitely going to take a luxury cruise somewhere, someday. I wish I could meet a cute Irish girl on this journey.

Ok, I'm seasick. I thought you wouldn't be able to feel the boat moving, but you can! When I walk, I sway. Needless to say, I won't be drinking any more beer. I'm already regretting the one I had bought earlier, while we were at dock. Let me say, when I first got up, I could barely tell whether it was my drunkenness or the boat swaying. I guess I should be happy it isn't worse? Well, I'm trying to calm down by eating and drinking some water. Unlike 50-75% of the people on board, I doubt I can sleep. I just saw some woman barf into the garbage after paying for her meal. After trying to down some food in the restaurant, I took a nap for about an hour on the bench at my table. When I woke up, the sun had risen, and people were clamoring around, eating breakfast. The swaying had practically stopped, and I realized how much bumpier it had been before.

_____________________

Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

Ripping CD's For a Creative Zen V Plus 8GB Portable Media Player

In addition to getting my car fixed and looking up Visa info this past weekend, I also started to go OCD on ripping all of my CD's to mp3's.

Talk about a thankless task! No wonder I had put it off for years.

Actually, the most recent version of Windows Media Player (8, I think) is making quick work of the process.

It's just that I have so many CD's.

Now that I'm working on it though, I know I have to get through them all, otherwise, it'll take me three more years to motivate myself again.

On Sunday, after spending hours and hours going through music I once listened to religiously, though it has collected dust more recently, I finally decided on an mp3 player for my trip around the world.

And the winner is the Creative Zen V Plus 8GB Portable Media Player.

Pros

extremely small, non-flashy, and discrete
made of scratch-resistant, lightweight plastic
8 glorious gigs of memory
low cost - only $144 shipped (through Buy.com w/$10 Google discount)
FM tuner
built-in battery (15hrs per charge) means less money spent on disposable batteries which is good for my wallet and the environment

Cons

Creative players are no longer featuring FM recording (due to issues with recording industry)
users have indicated the joystick control in the center can break off, and that player freezes often
small 1.5-inch screen may cause me to go blind and/or lose my mind while navigating stored music
built-in battery means I could find myself without tunes unexpectedly (I'm sure I'd survive)
there's more I'll soon find out, because neither Circuit City, nor Best Buy, had a working version (those players must get manhandled in the stores, and they're too cheap to keep the display ones in working order; quite a shame for customers)

As I continue to slide CD's in and out of my computer drive, I'm beginning to wonder how I'll decide what music to bring.

I'd guesstimate that I have about 24 gigs in total.

I know there are people out there with far more.

And I'd have more too had I not sold so many of my CD's when I was a young lad trying to scrounge up extra cash from time to time.

Visas for New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia and Thailand

Over the weekend, I found myself getting into the nitty-gritty travel details tied to entrance requirements for the first few countries on my itinerary.

Since the only information I had researched previously on this topic came from the first edition of Rough Guide's First-Time Around the World, I quickly found entrance requirements and fees had changed in most places.

New Zealand

New Zealand doesn't require a Visa for Americans, however from their government website, they appear strict about having proof of onward travel (such as a paid airline ticket, not just proof of funds like a bank statement).

As a result, my first plane ticket will be from Washington, DC to Australia, via New Zealand.

Australia

When I hit up Australia's Visa and Immigration site, I quickly found that you can apply for an Electronic Travel Authority online, which is like an electronic Visa.

There is no charge for the ETA/Visa, however, it does require a $20 processing fee.

The ETA lets you stay for up to three months, within a 12 month period of the date it is granted. It looked so easy, I just took care of it in a matter of minutes.

Basically, if you are a passport-holder from an approved country (like the USA), you fill out the online form with your passport info, give them a credit card, and they (in my case) instantly approve you and keep your data on record for future access by travel agencies and/or immigration/customs agents.

Indonesia (Bali)

Knocking of Indonesia was as easy as scrolling through the dedicated BootsnAll Bali forum.

As it turns out, Americans can get a 30-day Visa on arrival (VOA). I saw conflicting information regarding cost, however, I believe $25 is about right.

Thailand

Being that I was on a roll, I headed over to the Asia forum on BootsnAll and quickly found that Americans can get a free Visa on arrival, good for up to 30 days.

A Tourist Visa can be acquired for $25; good for up to 60 days.

Feeling good, I started to delve into the requirements of Nepal, Tibet (which I treat as an independent country, though China claims it as her own), and China.

I quickly found how complicated and convoluted the information becomes once you start dealing with a politically delicate area like Tibet.

I will save what I found, and the implications, for a future post.

My VW and The Wheel Bearings of Doom

A few weeks ago, I noticed a humming noise from my car. I had forgotten about it until my friend Jason heard it on our way to see the Transformers movie last Sunday.

Being good with cars, and VW's in particular, he suggested it could be my wheel bearings, which can cost a few hundred bucks to fix (oh, and that's per bearing, of which you have four).

I scheduled a 7 AM Saturday appointment at my local dealership the next day. As it turned out, my rear wheel bearings needed to be replaced, which cost $905.

Coughing up that much money on a car I plan to sell in four months was unpleasant. And it came on the heels of $600 in unexpected dental costs a few days earlier. While the repairs occurred, I took a free shuttle to the local metro and went home.

I worked out that if I limit myself to one vacation day per month in the future, I can resign with three weeks of vacation (versus my initial goal of two). This should allow me to make up most of my unforeseen expenses this past week.

For the record, I stand by my decision to buy a used car in April 2005; however, as you can see below, car ownership is costly:

$200 - winter 2005 - broken plastic along windshield lets water drain down on driver side; carpet must be removed to clean out the ice that formed.
$550 - Oct 2006 - replaced full (fancy performance) set of tires due to dry rot and cracking after only 10,000 to 12,000 miles.
$150 - March 2007 - replaced one cracked rim (discovered when tires were replaced).
$275 - July 2007 - replaced windshield due to rogue rock on a highway.
$905 - July 2007 - replaced rear wheel bearings.
$2,080 in total repairs over 17,000 miles/two years and three months.

I also decided it was prudent to skip the DC United game I was going to see last night. I watched it on TV instead. Since the only available seats for the next MLS home game (Aug 9, w/ David Beckham) were costly and crappy, I decided to skip it. Hopefully, I can get back to a live game by Aug 22.

Strangely, I'm still not ready to cancel HBO! I must be going for the world record in "most viewings of You, Me and Dupree."

London: The Theater, Pubs, and Clubs

Thursday, August 13, 1998

I was supposed to get my laundry back today, but it got misplaced or for some reason it couldn't be found. This was a little frustrating. But, I went off anyway. I decided that while in London, I would do nothing but hang out and entertain myself. This was to be accomplished by sitting around Leicester Square and reading the "Naked Lunch." The book starts out well enough, but I'm quickly getting lost. There seems to be no order or direction to the plot.

I bought a (restricted view) ticket for "Chicago" at $15 for tonight. I finally got the nerve to go into a pub on my own. I picked the Porcupine since it looked relaxed. I was going to get dinner too, but the restaurant was still locked after 6 PM (when it said it would be open). I got a few pints and headed off to the show. My seat was at the far left of the (dress) second balcony. It wasn't that bad, actually, I just had to lean over the edge a bit. The show was kind of short, and I didn't like as many songs as I had thought (I saw a version put on at my college). Afterwards, I milled around Leicester before biting another bullet, and went into a Disco-tec.

The Equinox looked like the biggest tourist trap in London. It was situated in the center of the square. But the cover was cheap with a student ID, so I went in. The bouncers just seemed to be there for crowd control, and looks. I bought two beers at $4.50 each. I paid this for a small ass (33cl?) bottle of Molson and Foster's Ice. It was enough to boost me onto the floor, though. The bass was loud, and the dance floor large, and the green lasers were in crazy effect. I danced for about 1 ½ hours. The music was all over the place from Wyclef and Will Smith to weird stuff I didn't know. I'm not really up on my house/jungle/drum n bass lingo. There were some kids who created circles to strut their stuff. One guy did some breakin'. Though he was better than I'll ever be, he seemed to be showing off (is that the point?).

The way to approach a dancing girl seems to be the blind side, rear end approach. This is a hit and miss kind of thing. Either way, it takes more guts that I have in my abdomen (at the moment). However, by the end of the night, I was dancing around a really hot (and happy) blonde. I didn't give her much eye contact so I really didn't know if she was paying attention to me at all. Oh well, at least she was more open than a lot of the other girls. A lot of the kids there seemed to be Middle Eastern and Asian. I walked home (about 45 minutes) at 3 AM. I definitely feel safe here.

Friday, August 14, 1998

This morning I received my long lost laundry. I also found out that the $500 cash limit on my MasterCard is not about a one time withdrawal, but it's cumulative. Therefore, I transferred $1,000 from my savings to checking account, so I could access cash at the ATMs. My budget is officially blown since I crossed over to Britain. Between travel costs and the entertainment I'm taking in (and the expensive hostel I'm staying in), I'm overblown. In order to reduce the damage, I'm going to skip Scotland. That will cut out two train tickets, and give me more time in Ireland.

Today I found out that "Phantom of the Opera" is sold out for tonight and both tomorrow's shows. I went to a couple of pubs (which in turn made it easier to go to Burger King for the second day in a row), and then returned to wait in the standby line. A guy came out and said the only seats available are normally $55. I left after considering the two hour plus wait and the expense. I went and got a ticket for "Grease." The seat was upper circle (top level). It wasn't bad for $19. I could see all the stage well, and I could easily identify all the characters, and I enjoyed it. I'm looking forward to seeing a show that I don't know the plot of. I also got a ticket for tomorrow's showing of "Les Miserables." Again, it is a restricted view seat, but for only $16.

After, "Grease" I wandered around and thought about going to a club. Actually, I tried to get into the Limelight, but the bouncers stopped me due to my trainers (sneakers). After that, I thought about how I could stay out and dance and drink all night if I could just find one person to talk to. I seemed to meet so many more people in Italy, where there was none of this crazy stuff to do. Sigh.

One of the weird things about the way the English speak is their repetitiveness. For example, if you are getting off the Underground: "please watch your step, mind your step, mind the gap" etc.! And instead of "Exit" it is "Way Out." Everything seems to be supplemented with an extra thank you, caution, or apology. Sometimes, it seems very drawn out.

Apparently the hostel I stayed in, the Albert, was in a ritzy section of town (Queen's Gate). Right next door was a restaurant (bistro) that attracted wealthy customers, like tonight, the owner of a black Lamborghini Diablo.

Read more of my exciting adventures Backpacking in Europe, or view my photos on Flickr.

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