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How to Plan Trips with a Big Dog

Don't Fail Like This Dog at Planning

"Andy, let's take a trip!"

This phrase comes out of my mouth at least 3 times a week.

Andy is a pro by now and takes it in stride.

Most of the time I think he is humoring me because we never get further than choosing a place to go before he distracts me with another task at hand.

Lately, though, we both have been seriously looking into a long weekend trip. The one catch is we want to take our 110lb dog.

Where should we go?

Perhaps the most exciting question any traveler can ask.

The possibilities are endless and the adventures, numerous.

Although, when traveling with a dog the problems tend be endless and the restrictions, numerous. So, what does one do in this situation?

Plan, plan, plan!

Personally, I think the word "plan" is a dirty word. I'd much rather fly by the seat of my pants if you will, but the thought of leaving our Tucker behind is all the encouragement I need to get my butt in gear and plan out a trip.

Andy and I started out by surfing the web for the United States' most dog-friendly cities. Unbeknown to us, there are many websites dedicated to traveling dog lovers.

After sorting through the websites, we found the closest "Dog Friendly" city to Des Moines was Chicago.

A trip to Chicago could easily be accomplished in a 4-day weekend. No flights needed here! Just Andy, Tucker, Myself, and the open road. Being able to drive to our destination is a must with Tucker.

I'm an over-protective mother and do not like the idea of loading him onto a plane.

Tucker Playing on a Playground
Tucker playing on a playground

So, we found a place to go. Now we need a hotel and things the 3 of us can do together!

Lucky for us, we have relatives who live in Chicago and are more than happy to accept us, and Tucker, free of charge.

For those of you who are not as lucky, I recommend looking at some of these sites which list pet-friendly hotels:

  • Bring Fido
  • Petravel

Do not be surprised if there are fees involved in bringing your pet to stay with you.

I found it to be frustrating that most hotels would not accept a dog as big as Tucker, but I know with a bit of persistence, and phone calls, I would be able to find a hotel willing to take him.

That is if my relatives were unable to have us!

Finally, what the heck can we do with a dog in Chicago? Plenty!

We were pleasantly surprised at the variety of businesses and activities that catered to dogs and their humans, most of which are recommended for the Spring, Summer, and early Fall.

Let's be honest, no one wants to wander around the " Windy City"? in the dead of winter.

I recommend Dog Friendly to see what cities offer for you and your dog. We found out there is a company in Chicago that allows you and your dog to take a horse-drawn carriage ride around the city.

There are so many opportunities to travel around the United States with your pets!

Andy and I would love to hear of other people's experiences while traveling across the U.S. with their dogs!

We would also like to know if anyone has ever successfully traveled abroad with their animals? How did you do it? What steps did you take?

Side note: we recently found out that Tucker has to have shoulder surgery due to his fast pace in growing. Sadly, we are sidelined when it comes time to take trips with him for the next few months. Keep him in your thoughts for a safe surgery and a speedy recovery!

________

Photo Credit: Fail dog

Italian Night: Keste Pizza & Grom Gelato

Pizza making in Ketses kitchen
Pizza making in Ketse's kitchen

I first met Robbin, the Italiophile behind Vineyard Adventures, in Washington, DC.  I managed to steer her toward a sushi restaurant I hadn't been to in a few years.  This time, I was on her turf in New York City, which meant we were destined for Italian.

She had invited me to join her, another New Yorker, and a German couchsurfer who was only in town for the night.

We convened outside Keste Pizzeria & Vino on a cold Sunday night.  The narrow Italian pizza place was packed, and we were relegated to seeking warmth in the little vestibule between the sidewalk and the restaurant's dining room.  We must've waited there patiently for a good 20-30 minutes before a table became available.

And it happened that our table was the one that sat flush against the edge of the little kitchen.  It wasn't the most comfortable seating option, having one's back against the wall, literally, however it did allow me to capture a great photo of the pizza making process going on behind us.  Robbin tested out her new Kodak HD flipcam by shooting a short  video.  I was in the right company.

Prosciutto Cotto
Prosciutto Cotto

I went with the Prosciutto Cotto, made up of tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, imported cooked ham, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.  Simple and delicious.  I thought the crust was perfect, and despite my intention to take half the pizza home, I managed to devour it all in one seating, save a few bits of crust which were sacrificed in order to leave room for dessert.

Robbin ordered a sparkling red wine for us, which was new to me, though I enjoyed it.  I'm so use to strong cabernets and merlots, that a lighter red made for a nice change.

Grom Gelato - ½ tiramasu, ½ dark chocolate
Grom Gelato - ½ tiramisu, ½ dark chocolate

Robbin then brought up gelato as a desert option, and memories of 3-scoop cones in Italy flashed through my mind.  More recently, I'd enjoyed gelato in Australian beach spots like Byron Bay and Surfer's Paradise, but that was almost 2 years ago.  Hard to believe.

We walked a few paces down Bleecker, and entered Grom Gelato, which was situated across the street from Murray's Cheese (which I will have to check out during a future visit).  After a few quick tastings, I ordered a cup of ½ tiramisu and ½ dark chocolate.  Rich, decadent, and highly unhealthy, gelato is always a good decision!

Just because you're backpacking and/or couchsurfing, doesn't mean you can't enjoy great food.  Every trip I take to NYC is proof-positive of that.

________

Keste Pizzeria & Vino - 271 Bleecker Street, New York City

Grom Gelato - 233 Bleecker Street, New York City

ESL Teaching: How Do You Say "Jewish" in Your Language?

Prague at Christmas
Church - Prague, Czech Republic

During the holiday season, my memory often returns to one specific class I taught in December of my ESL year.  The students were five lovely women in their thirties, and they spoke excellent English.  Their advanced level had resulted in many lengthy conversations, both lighthearted and intelligent, and they were one of the few courses that I truly enjoyed every single time I taught it.

On this occasion, my students inquired if I would be traveling back to the States for Christmas.  I responded with a yes, and then continued, " But, I don't actually celebrate Christmas."?

Then there was silence.

To ease the awkwardly pregnant pause, I added, " because I'm Jewish."?

More silence.  Five blank stares.

I don't mean to stereotype or generalize.  But I come from New York, where half of every subway car is Jewish.  These particular students, on the other hand, informed me they had never before met a Jewish person in their lives.

Though it was an unnecessary feeling, I sometimes felt isolated as a Jew in Europe, surrounded by Christmas markets and colleagues to whom it never occurred I might not celebrate their same holiday.  It was neither of our faults; it was simply a fact.

But as a teacher, this situation was an opportunity.  I had the chance to bring some added flavor to a late December lesson.  Many teachers I knew used the season as an excuse to have their students read excerpts from A Christmas Carol, watch A Christmas Story, or teach the vocabulary in " Santa Claus is Coming to Town."?

Instead, I held a discussion about tradition.  My students put forth their guesses on what my customs might be, and I shared with them my ancestral roots from Eastern Europe to the Bronx.  I learned they'd all be eating carp on Christmas Day; they learned I'd be at a Chinese restaurant.  They shared the costumes they wore as children on the eve of Saint Mikulas; I described the game my family played to search for our hidden Chanukkah presents.  It was a lesson in English listening and speaking, but it was also a lesson in international understanding.

Of course, a Jew in Europe is just one example.  Perhaps you're Catholic, but you find yourself in Eastern Asia, working on the 25th.  Perhaps the only holidays you celebrate in December are the post-Christmas sales, and your station abroad has you feeling nostalgic for the savings.   For every one of us, regardless of background, these few weeks have some form of memory, ritual, or association.

Just as chats about Thanksgiving can build student-teacher bonds, the remainder of the holiday season can do the same.  Dig deep, get a little personal, and hold a discussion.  That dialogue was one of the best lessons I ever taught.

Visiting a Turkish Bath in Istanbul

This is a guest post by Nico Crisafulli. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

Istanbul, Turkey
Istanbul, Turkey

I visited Istanbul with the idea that I would not do a Turkish bath.

I stood by that decision simply because I figured it'd be a bit too touristy, and frankly, it seemed a little silly.

I mean, who sits in a hot room with a bunch of middle-aged, incomprehensible men, sweating and unable to breathe?

The whole idea seemed preposterous.

That was, of course, until the fifth of my six days in the city.

I was dining by myself at a hilariously-named restaurant in the Sultanahmet called Doy Doy, which, surprisingly, had some of the best food I encountered over the course of my stay.

The Lavash bread and lamb casserole were freakishly delicious.

Across the cobblestoned street from the Doy Doy was an inconspicuous entryway with a sign overhead that read "Bath."

It turns out this hamam was unique in the city, one of the longest continuously operating baths in Istanbul.

Established in 1673, the place topped out at a quaint 335 years old, instantly making any American business touting "Since 1973" seem kind of ridiculous in comparison.

Once dinner was fully imbibed and my hands were on my belly, I rather impulsively decided to throw my inhibition into the wind and remove myself from my clothes in the presence of strange Turkish men.

The fact that I had nothing else to do that night was also a consideration.

I walked through the hole-in-the-wall entrance and down the long corridor, tentatively, but confident I'd made the right decision.

The hallway opened up into a room set deep into the hillside, quite underneath the Blue Mosque perched on the hilltop several hundred feet above.

The proprietor stepped up at once and engaged me. He told me his prices along with a few quick details about the place.

Yes, it was older than pretty much anything freestanding in my United States, setting my mind to consider how things must have been upon its grand opening.

Electricity - no.

Running water - somewhat.

Sanitation - fairly questionable.

The man's English was marginal at best, something I actually took pleasure in since most Turks I'd encountered until then held excellent English skills.

(It just feels weird to expect everyone you see to be able to speak your own language no matter where you are in the world.)

I was shown into a dressing room and given a small towel, a pair of rubber clogs, and was left to wonder what next to do.

I undressed, donned said towel and clogs, and stepped out into the suddenly very drafty main salon.

Luckily, it was late, and the place was empty save for the proprietor and one male client who was lounging in an easy-chair smoking a languid cigarette.

The proprietor gave my elbow to an older man, roughly of retirement age, and dressed in nothing but my matching towel and clogs.

He escorted me through a squat doorway into the bath proper.

Turkish mosaic
Turkish mosaic

This is where the experience became an authentic roll through hundreds of years of Turkish history.

The bathrooms were a honeycombed marvel, made fully of marble, laid out as a large hexagon with six circular alcoves around the main room with a high-domed marble ceiling above.

Vents pocked the ceiling, and warm steam permeated the space.

The alcoves were dark and had benches and basins for splashing warm water onto your face and neck.

In the center of the main room sprawled a gigantic marble slab about 15 feet square and was exquisitely warm to the touch.

The older man gestured abrasively for me to lay belly down on the slab. The warmth was magnificent.

Not too hot to scald, but warm enough to quickly bring my core temperature up from the winter chill outside.

I was alone in the dim space, and with my face pressed to marble, couldn't have been more comfortable.

Two minutes later, the older man was dumping hot water on me.

Not misting or sprinkling water but literally unloading pail after pail of sweet hot water all over my back, without pause or explanation.

The sensation was wonderful. Hot marble, hot water, ancient stone containing who knew what history.

Any anxiety I may have had walking into the place was quite literally washed away.

Four pails were unloaded onto me and the old man spoke what I could only assume meant "come with me."

I pulled myself from off the slab and, dripping wet, followed him through a set of swinging doors I hadn't noticed before.

I came into a small, cool, also marble room with showers and another smaller slab upon which I was made to lay.

He thereupon proceeded to pumice me from head to toe. He did this unhesitatingly and without mercy.

When he finished, my entire body was glowing red and quivering like raw meat.

Cat
Cat

Following the exfoliation, I was soaped down with the same willful abandon. Pails of hot water, suds, and oil rained down upon me.

Wet soap was splashed from all angles. What surprised me most about this process was not how my senses were near-electronically lit up but how artfully this man did his job.

He reveled in it, sang, whistled, cascaded pumice over rosy skin as if he was lathing the finest quality wood.

Twenty minutes later, with the treatment nearly done (the finale was probably 10 pails of hot water dumped shamelessly over my head), he incomprehensibly said I had the option to return to the warm slab in the main bath or to adjourn to the salon and changing cabins.

I meekly gestured my wish for the slab and took another 15 minutes daydreaming about sultans and concubines on a piece of marble that felt as soft as pillows.

Once I had my fill, I exited the bath and returned to the salon.

The proprietor came over, gave me a warm, dry towel for my waist, and wrapped another one around my head with such expertise I had a hard time removing it later.

The mirror showed me someone looking vaguely similar to Suleiman the Magnificent, towel on my head tight as a turban.

We chatted awkwardly upon my leaving. He said I had good lips which, according to him, meant that I was an intellectual. Go figure.

His English may have been off, but I took it as a compliment.

The bathing practice has a compelling history in Turkey. Throughout its long Empire-laden history, the Turks have held the practice with solemnity, and it's evident in the ritual.

Some of the most elaborate rooms in the Sultan's palace nearby were dedicated purely to hygiene, which was quite lacking in Western Europe's structures of the same time period.

Not to mention the simple statistic of a public bath remaining in operation well over 3 centuries.

Whatever compelled me to pass through that simple entrance notwithstanding, I'm happy to have experienced this cultural phenomenon first-hand.

I doubt I'll look upon my little bathroom back at home the same way ever again.

___________

Nico Crisafulli writes regularly for the AirTreks blog.

Photos courtesy of the author.

Should Obese People Be Charged For Two Seats?

The picture on the left was taken by an American Airlines flight attendant to show her management what she had to deal with on the flight. The article, which you can read here, got me thinking about a flight I took nine months ago.

The flight was from Brisbane, Australia, to Dubai, UAE. When I checked in, I asked for a window seat (my favorite) but was told the flight was wholly booked from Singapore (the connection) to Dubai. All they had were middle seats.  

The ticket agent got me a window seat on the first leg, but I was told I would move to a middle seat once in Singapore. "Well, you can't win them all, and no worries," I thought.

My flight from Brisbane to Singapore was OK, but it was about half full. When they boarded the connection passengers, I changed to my middle seat and was "stuck" between two large people.

On my left was a larger German man who made Hulk Hogan look small, and on my right was a lady from India who was easily triple the size of most women. Both claimed the armrest on each side of me, leaving me sitting like a child with my hands in my lap.

I was still thinking, "No worries; it's only a six-hour flight, and I can make it." I tried to jockey for some legroom but failed, as both were so large that they couldn't fit their legs under the seat in front of them. This left me with four legs in my area: my two and one each from my fellow passengers.

I'm not a larger person at all, and I stand 5'8" (178 cm) and weigh 160 lbs (73 kg), but I found myself with my head down, arms crossed, and legs crossed one over the other in a strained position for the duration of the flight.  

I didn't say a word to anyone and just kept to myself, but I couldn't walk when we landed! Seriously, because of the cramping position I was in, I had strained my ankles so much that I could barely put pressure on them.  

I walked off the plane looking like a disabled person, and I walked as fast as an older person with a stroller. I wasn't so mad because of this, just in pain, and for what reason?  

After all, I paid good money for my seat, but only got to use half of it. I saw the above picture in the article this week, which got me thinking. After some research, I found that the airlines' policy on this subject isn't consistent.

  • United Airlines: The policy is that if a flight attendant can't find two open seats in coach, larger passengers must buy a second seat, upgrade to business class, or even get bumped from sold-out flights.
  • Air France says those with a "high body mass" can buy a second seat for 25 percent off and be bumped from the flight if they refuse.
  • American Airlines: doesn't have a hard and fast rule, but passengers who weigh more than 250 pounds are told there "may be limitations to the service the airline can provide."
  • Southwest and Midwest Airlines require their larger passengers to purchase a second seat, but will refund the extra fare if there are empty seats on the flight.
  • Delta Airlines: speaks vaguely about not wanting to discriminate against its passengers.
  • JetBlue requires higher-weight passengers to buy a second seat, and no refund is given even if the plane ends up flying practically empty.

I know this is a very sensitive subject, but as more people fly, it is one that is affecting people and should be addressed.  

A law has been passed in Canada barring Canadian airlines from discriminating against "clinically" obese customers. But who decides who is "clinically" obese? Does one have to have a doctor's note?

Is it fair to make one passenger suffer when they paid the same (maybe more) for a seat but are overtaken by their neighbor?

It would be like renting a hotel room for yourself only to share it with a family that has rented one room but doesn't have the bed space for everyone, thus taking the spare bed in your room. Some say it's unethical; others say it's unfair for the other passengers. Who is right, and who is wrong?

The real question is why the airlines haven't gotten together on this subject and addressed it consistently.  

Is Delta Airlines saving so much business by staying vague about this subject compared to JetBlue, which has taken a firm stance on it?

Some have taken legal action. In 2002, a woman from the UK won a settlement from Virgin Airlines for just over $20,000 (€13,500) because she was crushed by a heavier person sitting next to her during an 11-hour flight.

A Frenchman who weighed 170 kg (375 lbs) won a court case against Air France after a crew member wrapped him in packing tape to prove that he was too large for a single seat, thus making him buy a second seat.

Who defines if someone is obese or just large? Would it be fair if the large person (think Great Khali from WWE Wrestling who has a body fat of five percent but weighs 420 lbs) that isn't obese but just a huge person have to pay for two seats, but someone who is "clinically" obese doesn't?  

If the airlines charge a higher-weight person for two seats, why can't all-you-can-eat buffets charge double for the same person? What are your thoughts on this subject?

NYC Brunch at 5 Points

The Saturday Brunch Rush at 5 Points
The Saturday Brunch Rush at 5 Points

After a raucous night of karaoke with my travel blogging brethren, it was time to catch up with an old friend I hadn't seen since 1) he got married, and 2) I left on my trip around the world.

Kosher salt
Kosher salt

I took a taxi over to my friend Kai's apartment, and there was the man, Chris, who had dared me to cage dive with Great White sharks off the coast of South Africa.  It was great to see him again.

Due to rain, we headed for a nearby restaurant called 5 Points in the Village.

The place was hopping, however we managed to secure a table after only a few minutes of waiting at the bar.

I was immediately impressed with the kosher salt they offered on the table.  It's my salt of choice, and a rare find on a restaurant table.

The service by our waiter was excellent, and in no time, we were chowing down on sugary churros, dipped in hot chocolate.   The sweet pastries reminded me of the ones I sampled in Barcelona at the start of the year.

Churros and hot chocolate
Churros and hot chocolate

We continued to catch up...and then it arrived.

Possibly the most delectable brunch dish I've had since discovering Eggs Benedict a long, long time ago.

House-Made Pork-Fennel Sausage & Poached Eggs on a Cheddar-Chive Biscuit with Roasted Tomato Sauce & Hollandaise Fondue

Words won't do it justice.  Nor does the $14 price tag.

It was rich and decadent.  The fennel-flavored sausage was unlike any other I'd tasted, and the biscuit held up well against all the moisture from the egg and tomato sauce.

I finished it...barely.

5 Points gets five stars in my book for ambiance, service, and quality of food.

_________________________

5 Points Restaurant - 31 Great Jones St, New York, NY

Friday Flashback - Koh Samui, Thailand

Chaweng Beach - Koh Samui, Thailand
Chaweng Beach - Koh Samui, Thailand

I'd been waiting a long, long time to visit the islands of Thailand, and the popular Chaweng Beach on Koh Samui was my first stop.  I spent a week there, before moving on to the real party scene on Koh Phangan.

Bye Bye Bangkok, Hello Koh Samui

Chaweng Beach Life

Kayaking Ang Thong National Marine Park

#Twitaoke: Travel Bloggers Rock NYC's Koreatown

Jodi and Amanda singing a duet
Jodi and Amanda (right) singing "Tocal Eclipse of the Heart"

Riddle me this:  What happens when you confine 20-some travel bloggers to a private karaoke room in New York City, with easy access to a bar, and a whole lotta music?

Answer:  Heaps of laughter, singing, dancing, drinking, networking, and a few unexpected breakout performances!

Such was the scene for #Twitaoke 2009, which offered travel bloggers in New York City and Washington, DC a great chance to come together for a common cause - bad singing...err, I mean networking.

I met Sean, Alisha, and Stacey from Sosauce outside Duet 35 in Koreatown.  It was chilly, but since we were about 15 minutes early, we hung out there thinking nobody else had arrived. 

Of course we were wrong, as a bunch of people were already upstairs enjoying the warmth of our large, private room overlooking the street.

(from right) Dave, Danielle, Leslie, Stacey, and Alisha
(from left) Alisha, Stacey, Leslie, Danielle, Dave

The order of arrivals is now lost on me, and in the absence of a roll call, (though not an icebreaker which Alisha had us go through), I believe the following people were present:

Dave (me) - Go Backpacking

Danielle - Go Backpacking and Around the World in 340 Days

Leslie - Go Backpacking and The Whole Plate

Michaela rocks out
Michaela dancing

Stephanie (also from VA)- Twenty-Something Travel

Sean, Alisha, Stacey - Sosauce

Michaela - Briefcase to Backpack

Sherry - Ottsworld and Briefcase to Backpack

Amanda, Jen, and Holly - The Lost Girls

Andrew - The Brooklyn Nomad

Brian Peters - No Debt Travel World

Grant - Imagine: A Vagabond Story

Jodi - Legal Nomads

Melanie and Paul - Wayward Winos

Bruce - GAP Adventures (honorable mention - we meant to have him there!)

There were also a few friends of the Lost Girls that joined us, including Courtney (amazing singer) and Stephanie who was celebrating her last day of work with Seventeen magazine.

Not only was this a room full of travel bloggers, but seven of them had also been on trips around the world! 

Amanda, Jen, Holly, Sherry, Brian and I had completed RTW trips, while Jodi was on a break from hers. 

As I type this up, she has already continued onward to Asia (follow her at Legal Nomads).

Paul and Melanie rock out to Meatloaf
Paul and Melanie put on a show to Meatloaf

I had the honor of being nominated to sing first before I'd even had a chance to drink half a beer and meet everyone. 

I chose "It's Still Rock 'n Roll To Me" by Billy Joel, which also happened to be the last song I sang for karaoke with colleagues in Richmond before leaving on my RTW trip.

Unfortunately, the staff lady punched the code in wrong and a song by The Cars came on instead. 

I hesitated, not knowing it, and Andrew stepped up to officially break the ice. 

Then, I belted (ok, sang quietly) Billy Joel, and by then the girls started inputting the songs they knew and loved.

Noteworthy Performances

Best all around:  Paul and Melanie's duet of Meatloaf's "Paradise by the Dashboard Light"

Best voices:  Jodi and The Lost Girls, plus Courtney, a friend of the LG's

Best dancing:  Michaela (all of her songs)

Best avoidance of singing:  Grant and Sherry

Best avoidance of the event altogether:  Mike Barish (who was cooking reindeer fried rice in Canada)

Best song selection:  Danielle and Leslie for Journey's "Don't Stop Believin"

Most songs sung by a guy:  Sean

Best comeback:  Dave (me) for Blink 182's "Dammit" (Alisha joining me, and some Grey Goose helped)

Best props:  Michaela (who brought muppets for the finale - "Bohemian Rhapsody")

Rockin out to classic Billy Joel
Rockin' out to classic Billy Joel

As the event unfolded, I realized a raucous karaoke night isn't especially conducive for getting to know new people.

It was a lot of fun, of course, and I give big credit to those who sang in front of so many people they were meeting for the first time (Brian, Stephanie, Andrew).

Special thanks to Alisha from Sosauce for helping to book the room and organize us travel bloggers into a cohesive unit, if only for a few short hours on a Friday night in NYC.

Photo credit:  Billy Joel courtesy of Stephanie Yoder

Travel Gets Social at 92YTribeca

Last Thursday night, I descended upon 92YTribeca in NYC for a panel discussion called Travel Gets Social: The New World of Travel Media.

Also in attendance:  Maggie Soladay whose tweet about it first caught my eye, Michaela from Briefcase to Backpack, Sherry from Ottsworld, and Brian from No Debt World Travel.  Later, I gathered that the rest of the room was filled with PR people.

Mark Johnson, founder of Jaunted.com and Hotel Chatter, moderated the night's discussion, which revolved around how social media is being used by travel writers, companies, and hotels.  The panel consisted of Matt Gross aka The Frugal Traveler for the New York Times, Bowen Payson of Virgin America, and Adam Wallace of the Roger Smith Hotel.

I sat, sipping my Pabst Blue Ribbon, and nodding along to a lot of what was being said.  I was happy to hear Matt was a Couchsurfing proponent, while Adam's independent hotel had clearly proven it understands how to leverage blogs and social media to increase business.  There was a lot of Twitter talk, and I admit to tweeting something during the Q&A, however later on, I noticed very few others beyond Maggie and I had done the same.  What's up with that...at a social media event no less!?

After the Q&A wrapped up, I managed to spend time chatting with everyone from the panel, plus a bunch of PR folks including Sarah from the Glam Globetrotter.  As the lobby began to clear out, Mark invited Maggie, myself and a few others to join him and his team for drinks.

We ended up at an empty, but intimate, Spanish restaurant nearby.  Salsa music was playing over the sound system, and sangria and tapas were ordered.  Needless to say, the talk revolved around travel.  I enjoyed the extra time with Cynthia, Editor (and tweeter) of Jaunted, and Juliana, the Managing Editor of Jaunted, Hotel Chatter, and Vegas Chatter.

_________

Read Cynthia's perspective on What You Missed When Travel Media Took Over Tribeca Last Night

More Travel Tales by Emily Callagan

You remember Emily Callaghan, right?  She wrote the most popular article on Go Backpacking last month, entitled "The Importance of Hooking Up Abroad."

Since so many people enjoyed her writing, we thought it was time to share a little more of it. 

The following excerpts are from her stories on Drexel's blog, The Smart Set.

Birthday Wish

I woke up angry on the day before my 21st birthday. I lay in the bed of a Copacabana hostel in Rio de Janeiro, shivering next to Ayal "" my Israeli travel-friend-with-benefits as he slept soundly. After the initial 20 minutes of our reconvening in Rio, nothing had been remotely ideal. We argued. I was jealous and paranoid. I wanted all of his attention. I wanted to know his feelings, but I also didn't want to have to ask. I was afraid of him, and afraid of myself, too, because I was in unfamiliar territory. I had no control. I hated this but also knew that if I had control, things wouldn't be nearly as intriguing.

And so I was simply angry. Angry I had barely slept, angry my eyes were stinging from tears. I thought about heading back to Buenos Aires again, leaving him and his dreadlocks lying in our hostel bed. But I decided to wait until after my birthday. I had, after all, waited a month for this. Chance had stationed me and Ayal in the same Buenos Aires hostel for a while, and then I followed him to Iguazu Falls. But our time together ended or was put on pause, I should say. He headed north to Brazil while I returned to the Paris of South America, where I spent several weeks dreaming of our perfect reunion before passing out each night, despite all the other boys.

Read the rest of Birthday Wish.

Toked Affection

I've smoked a lot of weed in my day. Blunts with boys on stoops in bad neighborhoods, metal pipes with middle-aged Buddhists, roaches with an old man hooked up to an oxygen tank at a Dead concert, and gravity bongs made out of POM bottles. I would never classify my avocation as an addiction. But perhaps an appetite? Something old Aristotle might say is "the cause of all actions that appear pleasant"? I'd say so.

One would assume that a philosopher would approve of such appetites. Weed does, after all, inspire thinking, pondering, concluding all that good stuff. But reading a line from his Rhetoric gave me a twinge of uneasiness, as though an assumed supporter no longer stood by me. He writes, "A 'criminal act' ... is due to moral badness, for that is the source of all actions inspired by our appetite."

I never saw this hobby as "bad," for I wasn't harming anyone. If anything, I was spreading love and uniting random groups of people like a member of the Peace Corps. Yeah, it's "illegal," but I don't sell and I'd never mugged a person for their pot, so am I still "morally bad?"

And are my actions "criminal" strictly because they're banned by law? Whereas if I had been born in Amsterdam I wouldn't be performing an act deemed "criminal" and therefore not filled with moral badness by Aristotle's standards? If that were the case, would my leisure pursuit still be inspired by appetite?

Not that I am, or ever have been, too concerned about it.

On my third day in Valencia, Spain, where I was studying for the summer, I stood in the booze aisle of the supermarket. Not yet 21 years old, I was as happy as a pig in shit. Liquor. Wine. Liters of beer in plastic containers.

Read the rest of Toked Affection

ESL Students Say the Darnedest Things

Prague
Prague

There are moments as an ESL instructor where circumstances teach you to bite your tongue.  Yes, you want to correct your students' every mistake.  But, if that were the case, said student would likely manage a total of five statements in sixty minutes.  The goal is to speak, not to be crowned Ms. Perfect.

Letting mistakes slide is a bit of a subjective art for each teacher.  My toughest "should I interrupt" debates typically centered around errors that would undoubtedly result in an awkward moment.  A favorite example came from my close friend and Prague roommate, who was, at the moment in question, leading a lesson based around one of the popular and life-saving controversial topic lessons.

The focus was on relationships of the male/female variety.  It was a private lesson, and the student had made some astute observations, in the midst of which he used the term, " intraception."?  My friend was then faced with the choice so many of us knew well: interrupt with the correct word, or let the obvious mistake slide in favor of promoting fluency.  After all, the point was still communicated, and you have to give it to the student: the prefix he chose makes a little bit of sense.

I have to be honest: sometimes, I remained silent, grinning internally at my students' expense.  (Please don't judge; we all have our flaws).  Poking a bit of fun over post-teaching drinks is practically a traditional pastime for the ESL set.  I can clearly remember sitting with a glass of wine and the same friend, who shared her student's most recent inquiry:

" Why are you a vegetable?"?

Vegetarianism is not exactly common in Prague, making the error that much easier to laugh about.

In all seriousness, however, English is a tough language.  You have to sympathize with students who had never learned that the positioning of the words " get,"? " on,"? and " it"? can change markedly change the speaker's meaning.  Those same students would never guess that while you may ask your boss to " shut down"? a computer, you probably shouldn't tell her to simply " shut up."

Whose responsibility is it to correct these mistakes?  This was a common debate amongst the teachers I knew.  Should we step in, potentially embarrassing both the student and ourselves?  Or should we shrug it off, hoping our student didn't curse us later in life for allowing future awkwardness to occur?

For better or worse, for me, those decisions were dependent on my relationship with the student.  I could discuss anything with the twenty-five year old female secretary I saw twice a week.  But the customs officer whose age was close to my father's?  My belated apologies, sir - no one warned me ESL required a backbone.

The Geography of Bliss

The Geography of BlissI am, for the most part, a person that looks on the bright side of things, and on a happiness scale of one to ten, a strong 8.5, maybe more. But why? How? And what is it about where I am that makes it so?

Eric Weiner attempts to answer all these questions in his book, The Geography of Bliss, a year of exploration to ten of the happiest places in the world.

During his successful career in journalism, first as a New York Times reporter, then as a foreign correspondent for NPR, he traveled to more than 30 countries, " most of them profoundly unhappy."? All the coverage of consequential bad news, as most news is, had taken a toll on his personal happiness. Weiner was a grump and a " self-described mope"? and sets out with good intentions to change.

He begins in Rotterdam's World Database of Happiness. He discovers that the study of happiness, like any other scientific field of study, is not particularly warm and fuzzy, that happiness is subjective, and that some things, like happiness, are beyond measuring.

Still, from the Netherlands, a country of tolerance and freedom, Weiner visits the clean and punctual streets of Switzerland. He finds a connection between boredom and patience, patience and happiness. And that perhaps, a combination of three makes it easier " to just be."? He then goes to Bhutan, a real life Shangri-La, a place where other expats warn, " If you stay here long enough, you lose touch with reality."? But maybe warning is not the right word to describe it, for the simplicity of life in Bhutan brings him peace, as he falls deeper into the trance of a country that prioritizes Gross National Happiness. From there Weiner spends time in Qatar, Iceland, Moldova, Thailand, Great Britain, India, and wraps it all up in his home country of the United States.

Although an optimistic nation, the U.S. is nowhere near the happiest. " We are able to acquire many of the things that we think will make us happy and therefore suffer the confusion and disappointment when they do not."? Our lives, for the most part are led too quickly, too focused, and with too much room for improvement, (something better, something bigger). There is not enough for human connection and contentment.

In the end, he concludes that, " Money matters, but less than we think and not in the way that we think. Family is important. So are friends. Envy is toxic. So is excessive thinking. Beaches are optional. Trust is not. Neither is gratitude."? A conclusion and yet there is not even an inkling of a definitive answer.

The reader, however, is hardly left confused, let alone unfulfilled. Weiner's writing is charming, enlightening, and funny. In my experience he sometimes evoked moments of embarrassment as I literally laughed out loud while reading in my favorite cafe.

Furthermore, he is not merely traveling to find any answers. He uses his journalistic talents to meet and spend time with so-called happiness experts as well as lifelong residents, global nomads and country leaders. His interviews are in-depth and casual and reveal more about the study of happiness in some ways than most scientific studies. The beauty of Weiner's travelogue, however, is that he also weaves this science throughout, providing proof and well-research insight into his personal findings.

He experiences the cultures just as the reader does, with a fresh yet critical perspective. It is impossible to truly encompass one people, one life, one country in a single book let alone a single chapter and yet his participatory lifestyle provides a satisfying dip.

Weiner is a wonderful companion and leader on a journey that has the power to take you simultaneously around the world and within the complete being of yourself. If there's one thing to take away from The Geography of Bliss, it is to " allow these places [that Weiner explores] to move us."? And of course, to smile more.

In the comforting words of one of the leading happiness researchers, Jon Helliwell, " It's simple. There's more than one path to happiness."?

Where will it lead you?

Majdanek Muzeum: Reflections on Touring a Concentration Camp

Majdanek concentration camp
Majdanek concentration camp

In Lublin, I take bus #156 four kilometers out of the city center to visit the Majdanek Muzeum.

Concentration Camp. Prison. Death Camp.

Unlike Birkenau hidden in a rural field, or Auschwitz tucked behind a small town, the barbed wire of Majdanek runs along the main road.

I can see small clusters of homes less than 100 meters from camp buildings. Not to mention a panoramic view of downtown Lublin.

Majdanek was one of the largest prisons and is laid out in the eerie rows of rectangular wooden barracks.

I start the tourist route entering the men's bathhouse — a building where men were both cleansed and exterminated.

I read the sign in the first room and gasp at the grid of showerheads above me.

I quickly move on to the next room before being trampled by the horde of naked emancipated men feeling the concave where their stomachs used to be.

Knowing exactly how many spoonfuls of soup are necessary for survival.

A peek into the next room isn't much better. Shelves of empty Zyklon B canisters. The poison of the masses.

Saving the worst for last is the room where people were locked, and Zyklon B was dispensed. With an attached small closet with a square peephole to witness the murder.

"Sick..." I mutter aloud in disgust and rush to exit the building.

After only these three rooms, I am unsure I want to visit the rest of the camp.

See also: How to Travel Poland on a Budget

Majdanek Muzeum
Majdanek Muzeum

I sigh and realize that I must not be overtaken by ignorance. I walk along the stone road into the camp.

I remember reading in a museum back in Krakow, that at some of the camps, the gravel paths were crushed tombstones uprooted from Jewish cemeteries.

I pick up several of the stones at my feet. A couple could be fragments from the granite grave markers I have seen.

Closing my eyes, I take a deep breath and move to the grass.

One of the buildings has its door opened forebodingly. With hesitant steps, I peek inside. Shoes. Hundreds. Perhaps thousands of shoes.

Tall metal crates with men's, women's, and children's footwear line the sides and run through the middle of the long building.

I can't bring myself to enter this building; to get lost in the infinity of history's hostage remains.

I finally made it to the back of the prison, to the crematorium.

The name gives a more positive connotation that should be allotted to a structure not of death but of annihilation.

It was with great trepidation that I finally entered the open doorway, braving my imagination of being trapped in a horrific nightmare.

My shadow followed me through two empty rooms until reaching the back room.

Unlike the other prison buildings I entered, only my lone footsteps echoed on the cement floor.

I didn't hear despairing moans, cries of pain, or even soft, sad sobbing.

My breathing seemed out of place in this black hole of an existence.

Majdanek crematorium
Crematorium

It wasn't the brick ovens that arrested my attention. Red brick with iron castings, resembling an old-fashioned country home furnace or a 19th-century bakery.

It was the metal stretchers sticking out of the openings. The same likeness of hospital stretchers used to carry ill human beings down an infirmary corridor.

This is not a cozy cottage, a bakery, or a hospital. The intersection of images suddenly shocked.

My whole body started quivering as I read the short signposting to my left.

The heat from these ovens was used to heat the water used in the prison showers.

The ashes were mixed in with the fertilizer that prisoners used during their forced farm labor.

I glanced back at exhibit 1. This is not a replica or a reconstruction. These bricks are smeared with the black smoke of singed human flesh.

Next was the mausoleum. I walked up the steps and peered under the large dome.

I looked up and down the 5-meter tall pile of grey ash. There was another visitor to my right — human ash.

Our eyes met and shared a brief, tight-lipped grimace. Any words would seem awkward or rude.

The passing exchange was enough to communicate: This was real. This is real.

On my way out of the camp, I looked over at the black crows like vultures encircling and swooping through the expanse of field.

"How do they know" I wondered, "that death oozes from this earth?"

They must share my empty expired sensations.

I wanted to tell them, "You are only looking for ghosts."

Suffocating in the crowd of ghosts among us.

____

All photos courtesy of Barak Broitman, Pixabay.

Is Couchsurfing Really That Safe?

Couchsurfing is an excellent way to find a cheap place to stay in Tokyo, Japan
Couchsurfing in Tokyo (photo: Dave Lee)

Q: I am now officially a Couchsurfer, but is it really that safe?

A: The short answer is yes! Couchsurfing is really that safe, thanks to several precautions that the site has taken and several precautions that you can take yourself.

I will discuss these in depth, however, let me preface this article by stating that I think the best way to approach Couchsurfing, especially for the first time, is to view it as if you were going on a blind date.

The majority of us, before accepting a blind date, do some background work.

We ask numerous questions about the person who is arranging the date.

If the potential date does not live up to our standards, then we do not accept the date.

If we happen to know other people who might also know our date, then we ask them their opinions as well.

This is the attitude you should have when Couchsurfing.

Under no circumstances do you Couchsurf without doing your research.

The site has created 3 safety measures to provide Couchsurfers with a sense of security.

These measures can be viewed on every single profile and you should make certain that at least 1-2 have been met for yourself and for the Couchsurfers that you will meet.

Personal References

When Couchsurfers meet, they are strongly encouraged to leave each other references whether the experience was positive or negative.

These references are permanent. Thus, if someone is left a negative reference, anyone can see this and they cannot take it down.

I do not believe that you should necessarily discredit a person if they have 1 negative reference in the midst of many positive ones, but if someone has more than 1, I suggest moving on to another profile.

Make sure to thoroughly read each reference. These really inform you of what kind of person you will be meeting.

Address Verification System

This can be done by either donating some money to the site via a credit card, whereupon the site checks your address to make sure that it matches the one you have originally provided them with.

Or, the site will send you a letter in the mail with a code that you must then enter into the site once received.

This measure is optional. If you plan on really making Couchsurfing a significant part of your life, then this is a good measure to take to ensure people that you are 100% honest.

Personal Vouches

If a Couchsurfer has received 3 vouches, then they are granted the power to vouch for other people.

Vouches are taken very seriously. A lot of thought must be taken before vouching for someone, therefore you can feel confident that a person is trustworthy if you see them with multiple vouches.

I cannot reiterate enough that research is of the utmost importance!

Not only should you check for the 3 safety measures, but you should also read members profiles to get a sense of their personality and what their home situation is like.

When looking for accommodation you can search for hosts using various parameters that may appeal to you such as age, location, sex, and activity level.

As a female, I recommend female Couchsurfing newbies to surf with other females for maximum comfort in the beginning.

And remember, you might not click with the Couchsurfer 100%, just like you might not with a blind date since it is a gamble after all. 

Though keep in mind that it can still end up being a positive experience, since meeting new people always opens the door to learning new things about life and yourself.

Nazi Concentration Camps: Walking Among Ghosts in Poland

varmer Unlike the other Polish cemeteries I have seen around town; each grave site shrouded in fresh flowers and candle lanterns, this one is different. No one comes here to visit their deceased family relatives or friends. No one is around to sweep the autumn leaves blanketing the walkways. No one to pull the moss from and level the tombstones leaning at 20 degrees. No one can trace their family line back to Samuel Stein who died in 1923. No one remembers who he is. History lost unable to be retrieved.

***
Against stereotypes, Hollywood can nobly raise a true story to a popular consciousness that is important to be remembered by millions. Walking amid the remains of Schindler's Factory, the afternoon rain can't wash away disillusionment. Pastel colors can't hide the grey facades of the communist buildings in the background. Misery atop misery. The small adjoining museum traces Adolf Hitler's rise to political power and Oskar Schindler's rise to human compassion.
***
I'm not sure how locals can live in this scarred neighborhood. Walking past the remains of the Jewish ghetto wall everyday; can they begin to imagine their life under a Jewish visage? I feel rather uneasy taking a photo of the crumbling height of brick. Is this a photograph of a historical site or of someone's misery?
***
After an hour and a half on a train I arrive in the Polish town of Oswiecim. I walk to the end of town past gilded Communist apartment complexes, canary yellow forcing a smile. I reach the Museum of Aushwitz. The name is unfitting. Museums aren't associated with death. I shouldn't feel like this when I visit a museum. All the Holocaust media I have previously ingested rushes to me. The personal accounts. The textbook facts. The archived photographs. All come from this place.
It seems redundant to hire a tour guide to tell me all the textbook facts I've already read and stories that seem an insult to atrocity if not described in a survivors own words. The scenery tells it's own story. A story that alarms me with its unabashed nakedness. The double barbed wire still encloses stark two-story brick buildings, and signs still hang in German. I hold my breath and tears to past under the iron entrance arch branded with "Arbeit macht frei". "Work brings freedom". Perhaps I feel ashamed to enter this place as a tourist, free from the despondency that it brought to thousands of people. Immediately after, a grim silence takes over.
Several of the buildings of the former prison were transferred into exhibits with informational displays and plaques written in Polish, English, and Hebrew. Basic descriptional captions become morbid.
One photo enlarged shows two young children walking merrily hand in hand along a railway platform with the caption: "On the way to death". I shuddered at the unexaggerated truth.
"In this cell a Polish priest pledged to starve to death in order to save another prisoner."
"In this building several German scientists conducted human experimentation on women prisoners some who died or were maimed for life"
"Cement roller that was utilized with human power"
Others didn't need any caption at all. Behind a large glass window there was a 10 x 5 m area of: human hair. Sold to German textile factories.
***
Veiled by a new reality swinging back and forth on the hinges of death, I take the shuttle bus to Birkenau another camp 20 minutes away.
Looking at the railway tracks running through the middle of the vast field, this is raw. Walking along the train tracks, along the platform, it's easy to imagine the death march taken by thousands.
I enter a wooden barrack; a place that is properly suited to house horses or cows or goats. Three-tiered bunks line the walls.
I catch snippets from a group tour in English. "What you can't experience today is the smell," the guide is saying, "If you can imagine all the bodies packed into this small area it gives you a sense of how strong the odor was. An odor that could be smelled 5 km away."
If I don't already feel inundated by the sounds of my imagination, the gustatory sense completes the terrific nightmare.
At the end of the train tracks I stand at the memorial, read the inscription, and look back on the horrific mess.
"Forever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women, and children, mainly Jews from various countries of Europe" -Auschwitz-Birkenau 1940-1945
It's hard to imagine about one and a half million people in one place. Harder still to imagine human beings in the shape of herded goats.
Afterwards, I discovered a poem by Nobel Laureate Polish poet, Wislawa Szymborska, which fit my feelings:
Starvation Camp at Jaslo
Write this down. Write it. In ordinary ink
on ordinary paper: they were given no food,
all died of hunger. All. How many?
It's a large meadow. How much grass
was there per person? Write it down: I don't know.
History rounds off skeletons to the nearest zero.
A thousand and one is still a thousand.
As if that one weren't there at all:
an imaginary embryo, empty cradle,
a primer opened for no one,
air that laughs and screams and grows,
stairs for the void running down to the garden,
nobody's place in the ranks.
This is the meadow where it became flesh.
But the meadow is silent as a bribed witness.
In the sunlight. Green. Over there is a forest
for chewing wood, for drinking from under bark--
a daily helping of landscape,
until one goes blind. Up there is a bird,
that moved across lips as a shadow
of its nutritious wings. Jaws opened,
teeth would chomp.
At night a sickle would flash in the sky,
reaping dreamt-up grain for dreamt-up loaves.
Hands of blackened icons would fly in,
bearing empty goblets.
On a spit of barbed wire
a man was swaying.
They were singing with soil in their mouths. A lovely song
about the way war hits you right in the heart.
Write about the silence here.
Yes.
***
In Lublin, I take the bus 156 4 km out of the city center to visit the Majdanek Muzeum. Concentration Camp. Prison. Death Camp. Unlike Birkenau hidden in a rural field, or Aushwitz tucked behind a small town, the barbed wire of Majdanek runs along the main road. I can see small clusters of homes less than 100 meters from camp buildings. Not to mention a panoramic view of downtown Lublin.
Majdanek was one of the largest prisons and is laid out in the eerie rows of rectangular wooden barracks. I start the tourist route entering the men's bathhouse. A building where men were both cleansed and exterminated. I read the sign in the first room and gasp at the grid of shower heads above me. I quickly move on to the next room before being trampled by the horde of naked emancipated men feeling the concave where their stomachs used to be. Knowing exactly how many spoonfuls of soup is necessary for survival. A peek into the next room isn't much better. Shelves of empty Zyklon B canisters. The poison of the masses. Saving the worst for last, is the room where people were locked and Zyklon B was dispensed. With an attached small closet with a square peephole to witness murder. "Sick..." I mutter aloud in disgust and rush to exit the building. After only these three rooms, I am unsure I want to visit the rest of the camp. I sigh and realize that I must not to overtaken by ignorance. I walk along the stone road into the camp. I remember reading in a museum back in Krakow that at some of the camps the gravel paths were crushed tombstones uprooted from Jewish cemeteries. I pick up several of the stones at my feet. A couple could be fragments from the granite grave markers I have seen. Closing my eyes, I take a deep breath and move to the grass.
One of the buildings has its door opened forebodingly. With hesitant steps I peek inside. Shoes. Hundreds. Perhaps thousands of shoes. Tall metal crates with men's, women's, and children's footwear line the sides and run through the middle of the long building. I can't bring myself to enter this building; to get lost in the infinity of history's hostage remains.
I finally made it to the back of the prison, to the crematorium. The name gives a more positive connotation that should be allotted to a structure not of death but of annihilation. It was with great trepidation that I finally entered the open doorway, braving my imagination of being trapped in a horrific nightmare. My shadow followed me through two empty rooms until reaching the back room. Unlike the other prison buildings I entered, only my lone footsteps echoed on the cement floor. I didn't hear despairing moans, cries of pain, or even soft sad sobbing. My own breathing seemed out of place in this black hole of existence. It wasn't the brick ovens that arrested my attention. Red brick with iron castings, resembling an old-fashioned country home furnace or an 19th century bakery. It was the metal stretchers sticking out of the openings. The same likeness of hospital stretchers used to carry ill human beings down a infirmary corridor. This is not a cozy cottage, a bakery, or a hospital. The intersection of images suddenly shocked. My whole body started quivering as I read the short signposting to my left. The heat from these ovens was used to heat the water used in the prison showers. The ashes were mixed in with the fertilizer that prisoners used during their forced farm labor. I glanced back at exhibit 1. This is not a replica or a reconstruction. These bricks smeared with the black smoke of signed human flesh.
Next was the mausoleum. I walked up the steps, and peered under the large dome. I looked up and down the 5 m tall pile of grey ash. There was another visitor to my right. Human ash. Our eyes meet and shared a brief tight-lipped grimace. Any words would seem awkward or rude. The passing exchange was enough to communicate: This was real. This is real.
On my way out of the camp, I looked over at the black crows like vultures encircling and swooping through the expanse of field. "How do they know" I wondered, "that deaths oozes from this earth?" They must share my empty expired sensations. I wanted to tell them, "You are only looking for ghosts".  Suffocating in the crowd of ghosts among us.

Auschwitz, a Nazi concentration camp
Auschwitz, a Nazi concentration camp (photo: JuanCarlosParadell)

Poland is full of ghosts. Everywhere. Some are invoking the warmth of a sincere compliment, others bearing the weight of a lie everyone seems to believe — all mysterious.

Past the trendy cafes, beyond the Catholic church spires, Poland has a history that begs to be revisited.

This is a recollection of my experiences among the tragic, chilling whispers of those who once inhabited the land that is now Poland, drawing on visits to three different concentration camps, one former Jewish ghetto, one overgrown Jewish cemetery, and one former forced labor factory.

Unlike some experiences, where a body can develop numbness to repeated pain for survival reasons, each visit to the locales of these ghosts elicits physical reactions that aren't callous.

The rapid heart rate. A sinking stomach. Clammy palms. Woozy light-headedness. Every time.

Unlike the other Polish cemeteries I have seen around town, each gravesite is shrouded in fresh flowers and candle lanterns; this one is different.

No one comes here to visit their deceased family, relatives, or friends.

No one is around to sweep the autumn leaves blanketing the walkways.

No one to pull the moss from and level the tombstones leaning at 20 degrees.

No one can trace their family line back to Samuel Stein, who died in 1923.

No one remembers who he is. History lost, unable to be retrieved.

Against stereotypes, Hollywood can nobly raise a true story to a popular consciousness that is important to be remembered by millions.

Walking amid the remains of Schindler's Factory, the afternoon rain can't wash away disillusionment.

Pastel colors can't hide the grey facades of the communist buildings in the background — misery atop misery.

The small adjoining museum traces Adolf Hitler's rise to political power and Oskar Schindler's rise to human compassion.

I'm not sure how locals can live in this scarred neighborhood.

Walking past the remains of the Jewish ghetto wall every day, can they begin to imagine their life under a Jewish visage?

I feel rather uneasy taking a photo of the crumbling height of brick.

Is this a photograph of a historical site or someone's misery?

See also: Majdanek Muzeum - Touring a Nazi Concentration Camp

Oven at Auschwitz
Oven where Jews were mass murdered (photo: alanbatt)

Auschwitz

After an hour and a half on a train, I arrive in the Polish town of Oswiecim.

I walk to the end of town past gilded Communist apartment complexes, canary yellow forcing a smile. I reach the Museum of Auschwitz.

The name is unfitting. Museums aren't associated with death, and I shouldn't feel like this when I visit one.

All the Holocaust media I have previously ingested rushes to me. The personal accounts. The textbook facts. The archived photographs. All come from this place.

It seems redundant to hire an Auschwitz tour guide to tell me all the textbook facts I've already read and stories that seem an insult to atrocity if not described in a survivor's own words.

The scenery at a Nazi concentration camp tells its own story. A story that alarms me with its unabashed nakedness.

The double barbed wire still encloses stark two-story brick buildings, and signs still hang in German.

Auschwitz gate
"Work brings freedom" sign (photo: Dariusz Staniszewski)

I hold my breath and tears to pass under the iron entrance arch branded with "Arbeit macht frei." "Work brings freedom."

Perhaps I feel ashamed to enter this place as a tourist, free from the despondency it brought thousands of people.

Immediately after, a grim silence takes over.

Several of the buildings of the former prison were transferred into exhibits with informational displays and plaques written in Polish, English, and Hebrew.

Basic descriptional captions become morbid.

One enlarged photo shows two young children walking merrily, hand in hand, along a railway platform, with the caption: "On the way to death."

I shuddered at the unexaggerated truth.

"In this cell a Polish priest pledged to starve to death in order to save another prisoner."

"In this building several German scientists conducted human experimentation on women prisoners some who died or were maimed for life."

"Cement roller that was utilized with human power."

Others didn't need any caption at all. Behind a large glass window, there was a 10x5 m area of human hair, which was sold to German textile factories.

Train tracks at Auschwitz
Train tracks at a Nazi concentration camp (photo: alanbatt)

Birkenau

Veiled by a new reality swinging back and forth on the hinges of death, I take the shuttle bus to Birkenau, another Nazi concentration camp 20 minutes away.

Looking at the railway tracks running through the middle of the vast field, this is raw.

Walking along the train tracks and the platform, it's easy to imagine the death march taken by thousands.

I enter a wooden barrack, a place properly suited to housing horses, cows, or goats. Three-tiered bunks line the walls.

I catch snippets from a group tour in English.

"What you can't experience today is the smell," the guide says. If you can imagine all the bodies packed into this small area, it gives you a sense of how strong the odor was—an odor that could be smelled 5 km away."

If I don't already feel inundated by the sounds of my imagination, the gustatory sense completes the terrific nightmare.

At the end of the train tracks, I stand at the memorial, read the inscription, and look back on the horrific mess.

"Forever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women, and children, mainly Jews from various countries of Europe."

-Auschwitz-Birkenau 1940-1945

It's hard to imagine about one and a half million people in one place.

Harder still to imagine human beings in the shape of herded goats.

Starvation Camp at Jaslo

Afterward, I discovered a poem by Nobel Laureate Polish poet Wislawa Szymborska, which fit my feelings:

Starvation Camp at Jaslo

Write this down. Write it. In ordinary ink

on ordinary paper: they were given no food,

all died of hunger. All. How many?

It's a large meadow. How much grass

was there per person? Write it down: I don't know.

History rounds off skeletons to the nearest zero.

A thousand and one is still a thousand.

As if that one weren't there at all:

an imaginary embryo, empty cradle,

a primer opened for no one,

air that laughs and screams and grows,

stairs for the void running down to the garden,

nobody's place in the ranks.

This is the meadow where it became flesh.

But the meadow is silent as a bribed witness.

In the sunlight. Green. Over there is a forest

for chewing wood, for drinking from under bark--

a daily helping of landscape,

until one goes blind. Up there is a bird,

that moved across lips as a shadow

of its nutritious wings. Jaws opened,

teeth would chomp.

At night a sickle would flash in the sky,

reaping dreamt-up grain for dreamt-up loaves.

Hands of blackened icons would fly in,

bearing empty goblets.

On a spit of barbed wire

a man was swaying.

They were singing with soil in their mouths. A lovely song

about the way war hits you right in the heart.

Write about the silence here.

Yes.

Quebec City: A Quaint Get Away in French Canada

My university French professor used to plan a trip to Quebec City every year. He would rent a 15 passenger van and we would start the long 13 hour drive from Pennsylvania to Quebec. Who needs to go all the way to France when Quebec, New France, is right at your own back door? After all, as my professor liked to say, the Quebecois are more French than the French!
He was right. The Quebecois are extremely proud of their history and their French heritage. Even their stop signs say " Arrêt"? whereas in France they have adopted the English sign " Stop"?. Everywhere you go in Quebec City you feel like you are smack-dab in the middle of a quaint French City. Shopkeepers will greet you with " Bonjour"?, cafes serve the best crêpes, and cobble stone streets with well preserved examples of European architecture will have you feeling that you really are in France.
Old Quebec, known in French as Vieux Quebec, is divided into two sections: Haute Ville and Basse Ville. The city's dominating landmark, Chateau Frontenac, is the beacon of Haute Ville. It is situated high above the rest of the city and provides a great view over the St. Lawrence River. The Chateau now serves as a deluxe hotel and rooms for the night will cost you a pretty penny.
To descend from Haute Ville to Basse Ville you can brave the very steep stairs leading straight down the hillside. These stairs are known as " L'Escalier Casse-cou"?, or break-neck stairs. If you aren't feeling as adventurous you can opt to take the " Funiculaire"? to the bottom, or back up, for a small fee. Basse Ville is filled with quaint shopping streets, cafes, French restaurants, and my favorite, La Musee de la Civilization. The museum holds a number of interesting exhibits highlighting the development of mankind and other sociologic exhibits. The museum also has a section on Quebec history which might be of interest to you.
If you are interested in Quebec history, check out the " Plains of Abraham Battlefield Park"? which is located outside the old city wall. The battlefield is the spot where the British took control of Quebec from the French in 1759. I have nothing against visiting battlefields but remembering my visit to the Plains of Abraham gives me flashbacks of near frostbite in my toes. See, my professor always arranged our yearly trip to Quebec during the winter because hotels rates are lower in the off-season. Well little did I expect that I would be marching around a battle field in two feet of snow.
Luckily Quebec has excellent cafes and pubs to defrost in. I advise visiting in the springtime and leave ample time to simply walk around and explore the city. There are unique shops and great French restaurants on every street which you will only discover by stumbling upon them. So pull out those rusty phrases you learned in high school French class and plan your trip to Vieux Quebec.
Lyndsey writes for <a href="?http://www.briefcasesdirect.com/"?>briefcases</a>, a website that offers luxury briefcases direct from the manufacturer. Lyndsey currently resides and writes from Kolkata, India.

Quebec City, Canada
Quebec City (photo: JoeBreuer, Pixabay)

My university French professor used to plan a trip to Quebec City every year.

He would rent a 15 passenger van and we would start the long 13-hour drive from Pennsylvania to Quebec.

Who needs to go all the way to France when Quebec, New France, is right at your own back door?

After all, as my professor liked to say, the Quebecois are more French than the French!

He was right. The Quebecois are extremely proud of their history and their French heritage. Even their stop signs say "Arrat" whereas in France they have adopted the English sign "Stop."

Everywhere you go in Quebec City, you feel like you are smack-dab in the middle of a quaint French city.

Shopkeepers will greet you with "Bonjour," cafes serve the best crepes, and cobblestone streets with well-preserved examples of European architecture will have you feeling that you really are in France.

Old Quebec, known in French as Vieux Quebec, is divided into two sections: Haute Ville and Basse Ville.

The city's dominating landmark, Chateau Frontenac, is the beacon of Haute Ville.

It is situated high above the rest of the city and provides a great view over the St. Lawrence River.

The Chateau now serves as a deluxe hotel and rooms for the night will cost you a pretty penny.

To descend from Haute Ville to Basse Ville you can brave the very steep stairs leading straight down the hillside.

These stairs are known as "L'Escalier Casse-cou", or break-neck stairs.

If you aren't feeling as adventurous, you can opt to take the "Funiculaire" to the bottom, or back up, for a small fee.

Basse Ville is filled with quaint shopping streets, cafes, French restaurants, and my favorite, La Musee de la Civilization.

The museum holds a number of interesting exhibits highlighting the development of mankind and other sociologic exhibits.

The museum also has a section on Quebec history which might be of interest to you.

If you are interested in Quebec history, check out the "Plains of Abraham Battlefield Park" which is located outside the old city wall.

The battlefield is the spot where the British took control of Quebec from the French in 1759.

I have nothing against visiting battlefields, but remembering my visit to the Plains of Abraham gives me flashbacks of near frostbite on my toes.

See, my professor always arranged our yearly trip to Quebec during the winter because hotels rates are lower in the off-season.

Well little did I expect that I would be marching around a battlefield in two feet of snow.

Luckily, Quebec has excellent cafes and pubs to defrost in.

I advise visiting in the springtime and leave ample time to simply walk around and explore the city.

There are unique shops and great French restaurants on every street, which you will only discover by stumbling upon them.

So pull out those rusty phrases you learned in high school French class and plan your trip to Vieux Quebec.

____

Lyndsey writes for Briefcases, a website that offers luxury briefcases direct from the manufacturer. Lyndsey currently resides and writes from Kolkata, India.

Friday Flashback - Bangkok

Funny face - Thai Royal Palace, Bangkok
Funny face - Thai Royal Palace, Bangkok

After 3 months in Nepal and India, Bangkok mine as well have been New York City to me.  Culture shock hit me hard.

The air-conditioning made 7-11's feel like blast freezers. Delicious Australian cookies known as Tim Tam's were easily available again (just like in Bali).  Long-flowing saris gave way to bare-as-much-skin-as-possible clothing.  The beer drinking began anew, as did my pilgrimage to "The Beach."

Superstar Service on THAI Airways

Touchdown in Bangkok

Culture Shock

The Grand Palace and the Emerald Buddha Temple

Wat Pho's Reclining Buddha

Dare #9 - Completed - Motorcycle Mayhem

Chatuchak Weekend Market and Siam Paragon (my first VIP movie theater)

Dare #12 - Completed - Vindaloo Consumption

Next in the series, I recap my time on the beautiful island of Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand.

How To Survive Driving In Ireland

If I've said it once, I've said it one thousand times: I love my fiance more than words express. He puts up with me in the best of times and in the worst of times.

One could say I was born with less than the average person's patience. Mix that with a strong type-A personality, and you have a downright annoying person to ride in a car with.

And ride in a car with me is exactly what that saint of a guy did. In fact, he rode for four days in a car with me in my opinion, one of the scariest places to take a road trip on Earth. Ireland.

That's right, Ireland. Land of small cars and even smaller roads. So, how did we survive the terrifying roads of the Emerald Isle?

An even better question would be, how did I not get ejected from the car after being a growly troll in the passenger seat day after day? The answer is simple: GPS, Guinness, and potty breaks.

These three simple things made the two of us sane enough to endure a massive trek across Ireland. Endure is perhaps not the best choice of words. We LOVED Ireland. It was beautiful, greener than I had ever expected, and full of some of the nicest people we encountered in Europe.

On the other hand, the roads were enough to throw Andy and me into an unexplainable fit of rage and terror. Ok, let's be honest. I had more fits than Andy ever did.

Shelly Getting Out of the Yaris
Shelly

Andy did most of the driving while we were on our Irish adventure. We had the pleasure of riding across Ireland in a Toyota Yaris. I referred to the little gem as the devil incarnate.

The Yaris resembled that of a pregnant roller skate and had it not been for our GPS, we probably would have driven that thing right off a cliff. If you plan to drive through Ireland, I HIGHLY recommend a GPS. It definitely saved our relationship and our butts from getting lost multiple times.

Granted, the GPS would get a mind of its own occasionally and drive us down some interesting road combinations. Sometimes, we would both end up screaming, fearing that we would get the car stuck or come across a pub that we would decide to stop at.

The pubs bring me to my second point, Guinness. Had it not been for our multiple stops at pubs to have a beer, I don't think I would have been calm enough to stay in the car. No, I am not encouraging everyone to go drink!!

A half-hour stop and a beer helped calm me down while cruising in our little death trap. The stop was what I needed, and the beer had the added benefit of keeping me from crawling up the windows for twenty minutes after we started driving again.

Ok, so potty breaks were just a massive scam for me to get out of the car when I was terrified. I never honestly had to go, but we almost always stopped at a pub, which led to more socializing with the locals, something I truly enjoyed doing.

We met many interesting individuals, and at least we dressed appropriately. Most people thought we were from Ireland and did not see us as tourists, which helped us blend in.

After we had made it through Ireland unscathed, we showed up at the car rental parking lot for them to inspect the Yaris. In the United States, most rental companies will go over the car with a fine-toothed comb.

Well, it is hard to inspect a car when on the sheet there are multiple circles to show dents. Andy noticed the sheet the inspector was looking at, and it had at least 20 circles all over the car to show dents and scratches.

If anything had been damaged due to scraping against shrubs or anything, there was no way to tell what was new or old. Even though you cannot tell, it is well worth the money to purchase full coverage on your car in Ireland.

With all the dents, bumps in the road, and crazy driving, the Yaris stayed intact long enough for us to make it safely through the country of Ireland.

Below is a quick video of one of the close calls in Ireland. Enjoy.

Where to Find Cheap Coffee in Paris

Parisian cafe

This is a guest post by Rita. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

Did you silently scream "quel horreur" when you saw the bill after downing a couple of drinks at a restaurant? Or get frustrated when you can't find affordable grub near the Eiffel Tower? Chances are, well, you just didn't find the right places to go. Or know the rules.

Don't be put off- Paris can be affordable, and often in the most unexpected arrondissements (districts). So stop trying to sweet-talk your way through with the waiter. Just take the bill, pay and don't look back. Unless the waiter/waitress is breathtakingly cute and somehow asked you for your phone number.

Mind you, I'm no expert, but after living in Paris as a stagiare (worker/intern) for almost 2 years and living on a pittance, one is bound to know a thing or two about hanging out in the city with 5Euro (fine, make that 10) in your pocket.

Here are a few tips on how to live cheap (whether for a day, a week, or more) in Paris.

We all know how the French (and francophiles alike) are obsessed with their daily Joe. The rule of thumb, obviously, is  trying out coffee in a Parisian cafe. The most important thing, however, is to know where you stand in a bar. If you are that short on cash, and still want that Parisian-cafe-experience, drink your coffee au bar.

Going straight up to where the bartender/barista/owner is, and drinking your coffee there, can save you anywhere between 50 cents to 2 Euro . Often, there are stools at the bar- and no Parisian dozes off into space with their coffee, like the people at Starbucks anyway. Stay more than 20 minutes at the bar, and erwell, paying up is your option. Call me a know-it-all, but I'm the only person I know who's stayed more than 20 minutes au bar (because I am terribly, terribly cheap).

Enjoying a late summer picnic on the Pont des Arts
Enjoying a late summer picnic on the Pont des Arts

Second thing to keep in mind: call. it. right.

Ask for your coffee the way a Parisian would. I haven't seen anyone getting ripped off because of lacking access to this lexicon, but I have certainly seen the quality of their cafe decrease as a result (indicator: amount of chocolate sprinkle or whipped cream on a cafe viennois.  Very scientific).

Don't ask for an espresso unless you want to buy a Nescafe machine, for God's sake. That cup of magic black brew is a cafe. A macciato is a noisette. A latte is a creme. And cappucino is well, a cappucino. If you want a latte with lots of whipped cream on it? It's not creme avec...er, creme, but a cafe viennois. And a carafe (jug) or a verre d'eau should come for free with every coffee. You might need to ask for it, but every Parisian restaurant should serve tap water for FREE, coffee or no coffee with the order.

If grabbing a cafe and people-watching on a terrace in Saint Germain is your thing, be reminded that it IS an expensive area of Paris. If you insist on going to Les Deux Magots for your cup, a cappucino there is probably 5 Euro . A salade probably 15. So make sure you've got bills in your pocket. Some restos (that's right, they call "˜em resto!) won't take a credit card if your bill is too small.  There are other options, too.

Take a walk around the area. From the exit of metro Saint-Germain de Pres, near the Cathedral and the Rue de Rennes there are quite a few cute bars. Hop in during happy hour and you might be pleasantly surprised. The true finds, however, lies near the Academie Nationale de Medecine and the Ecole des Beaux Arts.

Colorful macaroons at La Duree, Paris
Colorful macaroons from Laduree, Paris

You'll be happy to find a 1.2 Euro espresso ("Cafe") in the Bar Aux Deux Academie; or, a 1.50 Euro machiatto ("noisette") in a cute little bar on the corner of Rue des Beaux-Arts. And there are few others like them, too.

There's a secret joy to be surrounded by students and researchers from the ENA or the Academie while stealing a peek at the cute guy scribbling in his sketchbook on the stool next to you. Yes, I am that shallow.

And on your way to get there, don't forget to hop in Laduree- the French landmark of dessert heaven. Go to this location to buy macaroons and you'll skip the line at their store on the Champs Elysee.

The best thing about hanging out in the Saint-Germain area, however, is having a picnic on the Pont des Arts.

A wooden bridge normally filled by young people and beer-sellers, it is the best place for a relaxing picnic, a read, or a short break- all for free- while enjoying a magnificent view over the Seine River and the Rive Gauche of Paris. Keep in mind, however, that there are no supermarkets near the Pont des Arts, so go with a sandwich (better yet, bread and cheese and wine) to enjoy a lovely evening, before ka-chingin' it in the Parisian night life.

Let's continue with beer, grub, sandwiches, fromage and everything in between in our next encounter.

Mais oui.

-
About the Author: Rita has called Hong Kong, Toronto, Paris, and Brussels her home and is currently intern-ing again in Brazil before her savings run out. She enjoys sharing frugal-living tips, the joy of people-watching, and embarking on the search for sushi in every city she travels to on her blog (http://rita.nomadlife.org). Follow her on Twitter @ritapang

Photos:  Picnic and Macaroons by Rita. Cafe by David Lee.

ESL Lesson Planning: Forget the Grammar; Give Thanks Instead

A Thanksgiving Feast

Thanksgiving.  The word that evokes such a variety of emotions: the warmth of family reunions, that unique tryptophan-induced exhaustion, the intensity of shopping the day-after sales, the perfect satiety after second helpings of pumpkin pie.

Ask any American living abroad, and Thanksgiving is almost always bound to stir up fond memories of food and family.  It is the one holiday we all share in all its overindulgence, and the one that doesn't seem to be matched in excess by any nation throughout the world.

As an ESL instructor, the holiday is a prime time to take a lesson beyond lists of vocabulary and surface grammar guidelines.  While I was well-skilled in posing incessant questions to my students (no one improves without practice), when Thanksgiving arrived, I did away with the question marks.  I quieted my students, upped the amount of teacher talking time, and instead of inquiring about their traditions, I shared some of mine.

Every course, whether ESL or not, needs a day or two that break from the norm.  The holidays are an ideal time: half your students may have already left for their exceptionally lengthy vacations, and if they haven't, their minds may very well have.  Everyone is distracted, preparing for guests or for travel, planning out holiday menus, brainstorming gift ideas for that impossible-to-buy-for uncle.  What better time to forgo the present perfect in favor of a bit of culture?

A Thanksgiving lesson doesn't need to be expertly planned.  Though the holiday is unique to our country, the concept of holiday gatherings is obviously not.  As I described my national traditions, my students willingly chimed in with their own tales.  I came out of those lessons having exchanged decorating tips and holiday recipes, in addition to a few embarrassing tales of that year someone had a bit too many pours of wine.

The beauty of a conversation-based class such as this is that grammar corrections inevitably pop up.  So, the lesson will naturally develops an ESL focus, with a practical cultural twist.

Plus, an extra perk: one holiday lesson can easily be used for every course, no matter the level.  With that lesson planning time freed up, there's no excuse not to dirty the pots and pans for a full international Thanksgiving feast.  If you're brave, you can even ask your students to attend.

Friday Flashback - A Rushed Exploration of Delhi

Food vendor outside Jama Masjid mosque
Food vendor outside Jama Masjid mosque

Miscalculations.  They happen with travel, which is why I always try and check out a destination in person before deciding whether it's worthwhile in my book or not.

Delhi, as I found out upon my arrival, and thus too late, was worth a lot more time then I gave it.

Doing the Delhi Hustle

Exploring Old Delhi - Jama Masjid and The Red Fort

Family Night

Bukhara - Delhi's Best Restaurant

India's War Memorial and Humayun's Tomb

Final Thoughts - Incredible India

Next, we're leaving mystical and eccentric India for the tropical beaches and islands of Thailand.

From the Editor: Thank You!

Hammock time at a Colombian finca
Hammock time at a Colombian finca

I've come full circle this Thanksgiving Day.

Two years ago, I was enjoying this uniquely American holiday with my parents while my brother was stationed in Iraq, near Baghdad.  Last year, my brother was home and I was in the full throes of my trip around the world - on safari in Kruger Park, South Africa I believe.  And today, my family is reunited under one house and I'm incredibly thankful for that.

I'm thankful for the travel opportunities I've had in 2009, specifically:

NYE 08 - Champagne, quiche, and French girls
NYE 08 - Champagne, quiche, and French girls

  • Being hosted by my friend Laura in Paris, and ringing in the New Year at her friend's house party
  • Being hosted by my friend Stefan in Bern, Switzerland
  • Enjoying lunch atop the Swiss Alps in winter
  • Couchsurfing in Geneva, Switzerland
  • Being hosted by my friends Magali and Sebastien near Bordeaux, France
  • Getting front row ticket's to see FC Barcelona play at home in Camp Nou
  • Couchsurfing in Madrid, Spain
  • Couchsurfing in Bogota, Colombia
  • The chance to fall passionately in love with a city named Medellin, live with a sweetie named Maira, build wonderful friendships, and learn how to salsa
  • The ability to visit New York City regularly, for book launch parties and travel writer karaoke nights

I'm thankful for all of the help and feedback I've received from people regarding my travel blogs.

Pastries and chocolate - Barcelona, Spain
Pastries and chocolate - Barcelona, Spain

There are far too many people to name, but I'm going to throw a few out there anyways:

  • Gary at Everything Everywhere
  • Christine at Almost Fearless
  • Matt at Nomadic Matt
  • Boris at Travel Junkie
  • Jen at Mondo Beyondo
  • Kai at College Humor
  • Alisha and Sean at Sosauce
  • Adriaan at Colombia Reports
  • Michaela at Briefcase to Backpack

I'm thankful for everyone who responded to my request for contributors to Go Backpacking, especially the regulars.

Wine tasting with Magalie & Seb - St Emilion, France
Wine tasting with Magalie & Seb - St Emilion, France

Each of them is a pleasure to work with and they're helping to build this travel blog into something special:

  • Danielle at Around the World in 340 Days
  • Leslie at The Whole Plate
  • Lindsay at Nomadderwhere
  • Matthew Falk
  • Andy Green & Shelly
  • Andi at My Beautiful Adventures
  • T-roy at FOGG Odyssey

I'm thankful for every...single...reader of Go Backpacking!

And of course, I'm thankful for all of the wonderful sponsors and affiliates, whose text links and banners you can find throughout this travel blog.

The Swiss Alps near Interlaken
The Swiss Alps near Interlaken

Let's Be Adventurous: Solutions for a Picky Eater

MMMmmmm... Beer
MMMmmmm... Beer

" Let's be adventurous!"? I said. Andy cringed, " Are you sure?"? I immediately rolled my eyes at him, " Yeah let's order something new! What's the worse that could happen?"? Having that combination of words come from my mouth immediately sets us up for an interesting eating experience. We had no intention of living on the wild side that day but, sometimes the spirit moves us and just have to go for the culinary gold and try something new. As Andy and I sat in the little German restaurant and poured over the menu, we finally settled on a cheese and chive bread appetizer.

Our appetizer came out and did not look intimidating at all. I excitedly grabbed a slice of cheese and began to take a huge bite. Andy quickly suggested that we wait for our beer just in case we need to diffuse the taste of our food. " I don't need beer! It's be adventurous day,"? I triumphantly exclaimed. I took to making a huge chomping noise as I tried my cheese. Oh the cheese, did I mention I am the world's pickiest eater and in no way am I a cheese connoisseur? Needless to say, Andy was more then right; I should have waited for the beer!

The last thing we wanted to do was insult our hosts. So, ¾ of a beer later, we managed to choke down our cheese tray. The best part about our appetizer came after we finished it. I sat at the table with my hand over my mouth trying to choke down the rest of the cheese when I smelled something terrible.

" Andy, do my hands smell?"?
" What?"?
" Oh my gosh, smell my hands!!"?
" No! Why?"?
" They smell terrible! Smell them!"?
" Fine.sniff..yup, gross"?
" EWWWWWW!! Why do my hands smell?!"?
" Is it the cheese?"?
" I'm not smelling it! You do it!"?
" Fine.sniff..yup, it's the cheese."?

The cheese and bread mix left a terrible smell on our hands. It very much resembled how Tucker (our dog) smells when he comes in from the rain. We had to laugh; being adventurous definitely kicked us in the butt! The rest of our meal was just as eventful with the majority of my food being shoveled onto Andy's plate.

Shelly Eating Pizza
Shelly Eating Pizza

Andy and myself have a very interesting dynamic when it comes time to eating. More often then not, I am the one who decides to try something new and ends up hating it. To counteract both of us starving, we agree on one exciting dish and then one normal dish. This has saved me multiple times from starving to death, or a 100-yard dash to the closest bathroom. We both try new foods (let's be honest, Andy tries the new food and I take tiny bites and claim I am expanding my international food palette) and are fully satisfied, most of the time, when we leave a restaurant.

Our plan of attack has lead us to great food discoveries we never would have dreamed of trying in the States. Goulash and dumplings is now one of my favorite dishes, while Andy has grown to love eggs cracked in the middle of his pizza. Having a partner to travel and eat with is the only way I am willing to do things! If it weren't for Andy's good nature, I probably would have never stepped outside my comfort zone and tried new foods around Europe.

Every day is a new adventure when it comes time to eat in a foreign country. Whether you have a successful food day, or a failure of a food day, it almost always leads to great stories to tell later on. I always live by one rule, if I'm scared of my food after a few bites; I can always get ice cream later.

Forget a Guide, a Book... and Even a Map

Florence Italy
Florence Italy

I know, I know, this is all very unexpected.

Why would a book reviewer, and travel book reviewer at that, suggest not to bring along those books on my own trips?

And, my gosh, let's not even begin questioning why on earth she would think it sound advice to tell me not to bring a guide.

Or even a map. Ha!

Well, I'm not exactly telling you that you should or shouldn't do anything. But please consider my proposition.

Why? Because some of my best travel experiences have been spent without any of the three.

I know that studying abroad is supposed to be an academic joke.

Most universities do not equate the credit to that of their courses offered on the main campus, which translates to an easy class, a pass/fail grading system or a little bit of both.

Studying abroad was not like that for me. By the time midterms came around last semester, I was stressed and in desperate need of a vacation.

Thankfully, spring break began the day after my last exam.

Arklow, Ireland
Arklow, Ireland

My best traveling companion and I had previously booked hostels in our three destinations (Dublin, Budapest, Florence) and bought plane tickets to and from each random European city.

We had the essentials covered. And before we knew it, we kissed our classes goodbye (for a week) and hopped on our plane from Baden-Baden to the Dublin airport without a care or worry in the world.

There was some method to our madness: All we had wanted to do was go to Budapest to visit my neighbor's family and see the city from the inside out, through the eyes of the Hungarian locals.

But you, of all people, most understand the way that discount airlines work... without any logic.

And so, I placed my perfectionism and planning tendencies behind me as we found the cheapest flight in (and out of Dublin) and the cheapest flight out (to Florence).

We "planned" our entire 8 days of traveling without an agenda, and yet we achieved everything and more that we had set out to do.

We saw the sights in Dublin as we walked aimlessly through the streets.

But we also got to know Arklow, a small coastal town that we chose randomly on the train map in hopes of finding the essence of Ireland.

We visited all of the historically- and contemporary-influential places in Budapest.

But we also tasted the best hot chocolate we had ever had and realized the beauty in tragically forgotten buildings.

We took the tour of Florence offered by our hostel and even spent a long morning in the world-famous Uffizi. But?

It was raining, we were tired of tourists, we walked up to the hill before us, higher and higher until we found it.

We soon learned that "it" was the Bardini Garden, and we were, at that moment in time, it's sole visitors.

We continued on to the Boboli gardens after, of course, but we remember our secret garden most fondly.

Budapest, Hungary
Budapest, Hungary

"How, then, find the courage for action?

By slipping a little into unconsciousness, spontaneity, instinct which holds one to the earth and dictates the relatively good and useful.

By accepting the human condition more simply, and candidly, by dreading troubles less, calculating less, hoping more."

-Hendric Freder Amiel

Be spontaneous.

ESL Lesson Planning: Controversial Topics

During my first week as a newly donned ESL Instructor, I participated in an orientation workshop, a requirement for recruits from one of the schools where I worked.

The meeting was basically an express version of the month-long TEFL course many of us had recently completed: the school covered its bases by sufficiently "training" us in one afternoon; we teachers handled the boredom of repetition by following the three-hour meeting with the reward of happy hour.

Towards the workshop's end, the senior teacher leading us pulled out an old, spiral-bound binder. 

It was a photocopied mess, clearly well-used but absurdly out of place next to the gloss and color of Cutting Edge Intermediate and International Express.

This unassuming binder, we were told, would become our lesson planning bible. 

We would fight over it, laugh over it, give thanks to it. 

We would consistently fail to find it on the library shelves because one of the 200 teachers on staff would undoubtedly be leafing through its worn pages.

Initially, I brushed off those lofty words. But within two weeks of attempting to juggle my new schedule of twenty unique lessons a week, I became a believer.

The book's title was Taboos and Issues, and inside, it held thirty-two fully planned lessons that spanned from abortion and homosexuality to which nationality made the most irritating tourists.

That book saved my ESL life on many an occasion. Visitor in town and no time to lesson plan? A shy student who needed to practice conversation? 

Dread at the thought of spending another hour on the proper use of the present perfect? 

There was undoubtedly a taboo or an issue to photocopy and pass around.

Lesson planning is a downside of the teaching profession in general: you have to take your work home, but you are only paid for your hours inside the classroom (or your student's office, as is often the ESL case). 

Taboos and Issues made our lives easier. 

It did the planning for us.  It let us use our brains when we couldn't fathom correcting more spelling mistakes.

And it prepared our students for the real world. The high school courses my students had already completed didn't cover the vocabulary for the pro-choice or -life debate.  

But the next time they entered a bar outside the Czech borders, I'm confident they were able to sustain a conversation well beyond, "What's your favorite hobby?" I'd qualify that as a job well done.

An American in Hiroshima

This is a guest post by Joel Putnam. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

Japanese forest as seen from the bullet train
Picture this Japanese forest going by your train window

The bullet train jolted me awake at about 250 km/hr. After an all-nighter climbing Mt Fuji, I'm not sure anything else would have done the trick. But the sudden shake sideways, caused by another 250 km/hr train passing us in the opposite direction, was enough.

First thing I remembered upon waking was being annoyed with myself. My JR rail pass expired at midnight. I'd wanted to get to Shimonoseki in time for the ferry to Busan, Korea. But I'd missed a subway by five minutes, causing me to miss the first train, causing me to miss that day's ferry.  A five minute delay snowballed into a full day's delay. I wasn't pleased.

I groaned, rubbed my eyes, and looked out the window. It was quite a view, all bamboo forests and hills. They gave way to a village made entirely of rice paddies and traditional Japanese houses, like something out of a childrens' picture book.

From there we went into a tunnel, and back into the hills. Then came a second traditional Japanese farming village. Then the third, after another tunnel. I got out my camera as we went into the second tunnel and got it ready to take shots of what I expected to be the fourth village on the other side of the latest tunnel. That's when a tone sounded and an announcement came through the speakers for the next stop: "Tsugi ekewa Hiroshima. Hiroshima desu..."

I lowered my camera. There would be no ancient farming village on the other side of this tunnel. Anything made before 1945 would be gone.

We pulled into the Hiroshima station and I looked outside at the rain. Do I get off? I might still make it onto tonight's ship, if I happened to get a fast local train connection to town, and then begged. Even if I didn't, I wasn't sure I wanted to see this place in the rain. What would there be left to see?

I was pretty much convinced not to go, until I thought of something my father told me a long time ago: that in life, he'd always regretted the things he hadn't done far more than the things he'd done. I picked up my new bag, squeezed past the people boarding, and stepped out of the train.

Paper lanterns made by children and floated in the river to commemorate the victims of the bomb. The collapsed one was one of the sadder things Ive seen in some time.
Paper lanterns made by children and floated in the river to commemorate the victims of the bomb. The collapsed one was one of the sadder things I've seen in some time.

It was hot.  The bad kind too.  Not scorching, but just muggy enough to make you feel sticky. I walked downstairs into the station and picked up a free tourist map, wandering vaguely towards something described as the "Peace Park."

I read about an event or two planned on the back, where families of the victims of the atomic bomb would gather at 6:00pm to launch paper lanterns with messages for peace down the river in honor of the 64th anniversary of the bomb.

August 6th.

I looked at my cell phone to check the time.

Thursday, August 6th, 6:15pm.

I've seen demonstrations for peace before, but usually they're either political or filled with the kind of guy who, when I asked for tips on traveling through Laos, turned his blond, dreadlocked head to me and said "Love. Just... open yourself to Love... all around you."

The only building in Hiroshima to survive the atomic bomb.
The only building in Hiroshima to survive the atomic bomb.

This was different. I saw families walking down the street with their kids, who were drawing on pieces of paper, getting ready to send them out across the water. Pieces with Japanese flags, American flags, and simple words.

They wrote their messages, attached them to floating bottoms with candles, and sent them down the river under the shadow of the "atomic" dome - the skeletal beams of the only structure to survive the nuclear explosion.

I wondered if that was really what it took to bring people together with an answer, a quiet demonstration that they saw death and destruction a long time ago, they know an alternative, and they want to honor it.

I saw a group of people around my age holding signs that said "Free Hugs." I walked up to one of them and asked a man why the signs were only in English, and not in Japanese. He told me in broken English that it was an international symbol that the Japanese people knew too.

My grandfather and great-uncle both served in the US military during WWII. We've always been proud of that. Still, my great-uncle has a few things to say about the Japanese that I don't care to repeat in public. Many of these guys probably had grandparents in the Japanese military. Who knows what some of them say about people like me and my family.

All I know is their grandchildren were there to honor peace, and they wanted to give hugs, and their signs were written in my language.

I caught the ferry to Korea the next day. I don't mind the delay anymore.
----

Joel Putnam dreamed of seeing the world and having big adventures when he was little. Now he's out doing it. If you've got the time and the curiosity, read some of his stories and tips at jtrek.blogspot.com.

Photos courtesy of Joel Putnam.

The First DC Travel Tweetup

Clarendon Boulevard
Clarendon Boulevard

On November 12th, the Liberty Tavern in Clarendon, VA was ground-zero for a DC travel tweetup of epic proportions.

The call to share a few beers, and travel yarns, was made by Stephanie of Twenty-Something Travel and yours truly here at GoBackpacking.  I arrived first, to a bar packed with Arlingtonians enjoying a Thursday night happy hour.  I scoffed at the $15+ premium beer menu, and truffle pizzas.

Stephanie (@20stravel) arrived next, which gave me a chance to get to know my lovely co-host one on one.  She was soon followed by Sonia (@pupologist) and her husband Mark, who had recently returned from a trip to Italy.

We were then joined by Sarah (@volunteerglobal) who works for the Peace Corps, and finally Alex (@thebudak), who is working on his Master's at Georgetown.

It was a lot of fun to get together with local travel bloggers and put faces with the little photos which flash across Twitter all the time.

Unfortunately, we missed Marilyn (@Marilyn_Res) from National Geographic, who arrived but could not find us.  I may have to bite the bullet and wear a name tag (or a big blue bird hat) next time to ensure that doesn't happen again.

The next DC Travel Tweetup will actually be in the capital, and should be announced in the next few weeks.

Friday Flashback - India's Golden Temple & Pakistan Border Ceremony

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As my time in India drew to a close, I made  a mad dash from McLeod Ganj to a few special sites further west.

The Golden Temple in Amritsar is literally a temple made of gold, and the number one pilgrimage site for Sikhs.  Despite the overcast weather, it was still a sight to behold.

Later in the afternoon, I attended the India-Pakistan border crossing ceremony which I had first seen on Michael Palin's "Himalaya" TV series.  It was one of the coolest experiences of my entire trip.

Sikhism's Golden Temple in Amritsar

The Surreal India-Pakistan Border Ceremony

My Last Indian Train Ride

Next week's Friday Flashback will cover my posts from Delhi, and then it's off to Southeast Asia to see what kind of trouble I got myself into last year.

Destination Asia: Packing Ultra-Light

Bigger isn't always better
" You're an idiot,"? was the exact reaction I got from my mom when I told her that I would be packing ultra-light.

What do I mean when I say I'll be packing ultra-light?

Well I'm trading in my 65 liter Eagle Creek Explorer LT for a Futura 28 Day Pack, and that is the only bag I'll be taking on my 4 month trip to South-East Asia. OK, so now you think I'm an idiot too, don't you?

It's not an original idea and it has been done successfully before.

I first heard of this style of travel through a series of blog posts on Gadling called Life Nomadic. 

I was intrigued to the learn of author Tyan, who has been a huge proponent of this style of travel, having traveled this way for years.

I've always traveled light. On my first trip, my backpack weighed in at under 20lbs, fully loaded.

I smirked every time another traveler would walk into my hostel wearing a 90L monster packed to the brim with whatever didn't fit hanging off the side like a traveling salesman.

Scaling down my gear to a 28L pack may seem impossible but really it's not, the golden rule is light, thin clothes and less of them. That coupled with upgrading my gear to the smallest option available will make it possible.

For example, instead of taking a day pack I'll be taking a Kiva Key Chain Pack, which is a full day pack that will scrunch up into a little zippered package small enough to fit on a key chain.

For my trip to Cuba, I used an even smaller bag as a test.

Though I was staying in one place throughout the entire trip, it wasn't a true test, but it did assure me that my plan was plausible.

My pack for Cuba

But why would I want to put myself through the strain of having to do without?

Besides the obvious advantage of not hauling around the extra weight, I will enjoy several other benefits, mainly that I can take everything I own everywhere.

I probably won't always, but if I ever feel that my room isn't secure then I won't suffer when I take it with me. 

I will also be taking my pack on treks with me. 

In particular, if there is a trek that follows a point A to point B route, then usually guest houses will arrange for your bags to be sent to your destination.

Maybe it's just my obsession with reading horror stories, but I don't like the idea of parting with my only possessions on the continent for extended periods of time. By packing ultra-light, I won't have to.

Considering I'll be on approximately 11 flights in the next year, across multiple countries and carriers, packing this light will allow me to keep my possessions within arm's reach at all times. 

If my bag were to get lost even for a few days it would be a monumental setback. Doesn't skipping the baggage claim after a long flight sound like a little slice of heaven?

The most enticing reason for me to travel ultra-light is the sheer challenge. It will make me a more disciplined, and efficient traveler. Even when I want nothing more then the roomy comfort of my old bag, I will have no choice but to persevere.

Travel is all about pushing yourself and your comfort zones, and what better way is there to do that than by taking the road less traveled?

Below is the video explaining how to pack ultra-light that inspired me to push myself.

Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer

Thanks to my love for his masterpiece, Into Thin Air, I was already on Krakauer's side before I even picked up its predecessor, Into the Wild. I knew it would be a story that would tempt, scare, and awe me.

The Storyline

Starting from the book's cover, the outcome is apparent to the reader: the protagonist, a 24 year-old Emory graduate, dies. Where does the story unfold from here?

McCandless' Letters to his Road Friends

Krakauer reveals the perspectives of the people who became integral parts of McCandless' quest: the electrician who dropped him at the mouth of the Stampede Trail outside Healy, Alaska; the hunters who found his body; the jack-of-all-trades who employed and befriended him in South Dakota throughout the two year journey; an old man who felt so connected as to ask to be his guardian; and the tormented family still writhing in painful loss at home in Virginia.

It's an investigation where the main mystery is the state of the human condition, and the reader asks, "What compelled Chris?" It is through the tales of these personal encounters with McCandless that the reader can decide if he was narcissistic and stupid or in touch with something most of us try not to channel.

McCandless mailed many letters to road friends, kept journals and wrote thoughts in book margins, which help the reader to deduce further his mental state. One such letter to his friend, Ron (an older man whom McCandless met in Salton City, California), illustrates his passion to inspire those bound by habit to security to do something invigorating:

"So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity, and conservatism, all of which may appear to give one peace of mind, but in reality nothing is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future."

The Author's Presence

Not only does Krakauer question these real-life characters in their surroundings but describes every landscape and lifestyle vividly, enough to prove he's been there and absorbed McCandless' experiences viscerally.

Jon Krakauer's National Bestseller

And if the craft and accuracy of his writing aren't enough to prove Krakauer is the right person assigned to the story, then the final affirmation comes from his own stories about paternal relations and outdoor challenges of the body and soul that relate to McCandless. It's through his own solo experience in the Alaskan wild, climbing the Devil's Thumb and traversing the Stikine Ice Cap, that Krakauer impresses the drive of man's primal allure and connection to that which has great potential to kill him.

Chris' Art of Travel

Many say McCandless took on more than he could handle and underestimated the magnitude of Mother Nature, but had he survived [and sidestepped his tiny, fatal mistake] would people have considered him so childish?

Is survival the test of someone's philosophical or inexplicable purpose?

The essence of the narrative, what McCandless sought for those two years as a vagabond, is a means to happiness. If you don't mind a good spoiler, these two excerpts demonstrate the evolution of his viewpoint from journey to final words:

[In his letter to Ron while en route to Alaska] "You are wrong if you think Joy emanates only or principally from human relationships...We just have to have the courage to turn against our habitual lifestyle and engage in unconventional living..."

[Note found in the margin of Doctor Zhivago by Boris Paternak, the last book he read] "HAPPINESS ONLY REAL WHEN SHARED"

What was certainly magnified by Krakauer's text was the reality that we humans harbor primordial desires, and it seems we're on a sliding scale with respect to how much we allow these feelings to be heard and acted upon.

It is my belief that travelers and the like-minded are more responsive to those "calls of the wild." Unconventional living forces a constant reevaluation of one's life [and one's mortality], and when we are closer in mindset to our own expiration, it seems we connect closer to the motivations of our primitive ancestors.

Thanks to the realities described by Krakauer, we can assume McCandless died understanding a lesson that seemingly takes half-centuries to comprehend; one could call it a priceless lesson, but since his life was the cost, was it justified?

Case in point, it's a good book. Read it.

One to One: Teaching (and Gossiping with) Individual Students

Prague, Czech Republic

When glancing through the makeshift syllabus on the first day of my TEFL certification course, I distinctly remember one title catching my attention.  "1-2-1: Teaching Individuals."

I wasn't sure whether to laugh or grimace at the nineties-era number speak.  The abundance of flannel and male ponytails often made Prague feel firmly rooted in 1995, perhaps proudly hanging onto the country's first decade of self-governing freedom.  So, abbreviating " to"? with " 2,"? while cringe-inducing, was probably appropriate.

My course instructor informed us that one-to-one courses are some of the most common in the European ESL market, not only because they can build a teacher's repertoire (and income) with private lessons, but also due to their usefulness to the student.  This variety of lesson is a student's best opportunity to practice.

I walked into my first individual lesson exactly as any overprepared, spontaneity-fearing person would: with a perfectly timed lesson plan.  Opening the door of the business at which I was teaching, I climbed four flights of stairs to the attic office, where I would spend the next ninety minutes alone with a government customs officer three times my age.

Yeah, he probably wasn't interested in filling in the blank with a noun or a verb.

Likewise, neither was the twenty-five year old secretary whose broken sentences detailed the questionable substances her boyfriend had stashed under their mattress.  The near-fluent newlywed whose wife was about to give birth to their first child?  Same.

Therapist and gossiper wasn't part of my "1-2-1" education, but in chatting about my students' lives, I realized most of them wanted to do one thing: speak.  Maybe they confided secrets in me because speaking a foreign language felt as though they weren't revealing them at all.  Maybe they looked to our hour together as an escape from the stress of work.  Maybe they were simply taking advantage of an awkward twenty-two year old.

Whatever the reason, I found justification for ditching the lesson plans for long chats and spur of the moment grammatical corrections.  My individual students got to practice for the real world.  We could hold discussions as they might with business colleagues, or we could gush the way they would over a beer with a friend.  We didn't speak English for a grade, we spoke it for reality.

Sure, ninety minutes is a long time to listen to a single person talk, and I'd be lying if I didn't admit to dreading a select few each week.  But these lessons were an opportunity to craft a course that my students would truly remember, because for once, we did what they wanted.  Even if TEFL is only a means to an expatriate adventure, we are still teachers, and it never hurts to make an impact along the way.

Traveling Tucker - Road Trip Edition

Tucker enjoying fresh air
Tucker takes in the scenery

Traveling with a dog has its ups and downs, highs and lows, fun times, and frustrating times. More then often, the joy of being able to go for a walk with your dog in a new city, watch them smell all the new smells available, and seeing another side of the city is well worth the effort.

We are going to start small and build up with our talks about Traveling with Tucker. The best luck we have had in introducing Tucker to a life on the road is short trips around Iowa.

The majority of his mileage and socialization have come from Andy loading him up into his '92 Beretta and traveling 3 hours to visit Shelly on movie sets across Iowa. Tucker has been going on small road trips since he was 3 months old.

Prior to taking the big leap and cooping him up in the car for 3 plus hours we tried small car rides around town. Most of which ended badly with Tucker attempting to bail out the passenger side window while the car was in motion. Needless to say, we were nervous on how he would handle his first cross-Iowa expedition.

Tucker took his first long trip in the back of Shelly's Escape in his kennel. He was given toys, treats, and towels to keep him busy. He cried nonstop for the first hour and a half of the three-hour ride. He got a break from his kennel to eat at a rest stop/park. Like any good dad, Andy walked Tucker around for him to go potty trying to prevent any accidents from happening in the car. Forty-five minutes later, still walking, no potty. So, Tucker was loaded back up into the car where he proceeded to whine for another thirty minutes. Thankfully, Tucker made it to the hotel without any accidents! The rest of the weekend went so smooth that we have continually brought Tucker across Iowa for the past four months.

Tucker likes air conditioning
Tucker's first hotel experience - he promptly crashed in front of air conditioning for an afternoon nap.

Andy deserves the credit for figuring out the magic combination to getting Tucker to sit in the car and not try to break out. Tucker ALWAYS has to go for a long walk before we go on a trip otherwise he will be the worst backseat driver known to man. He has a tendency to wiggle his way up onto the center counsel and lick anything or anyone within his reach. As you can imagine, it's a bit distracting to have such a large dog licking the side of your head while driving.

We also find it best to take Tucker directly to a park after such a long car ride. We would rather he exercise his legs and empty his bladder somewhere other then our hotel room.

In our short time with Tucker, we have learned to look at hotels in a completely different way:

  • The air conditiong is always better in the hotel then it is at home.
  • The best way to make new friends at a MOTEL; let your dog wander into their room.
  • The most interesting things about hotels can be found in the parking lots.
  • If you are curious about your new surroundings, simply explore!

What type of road trip you take greatly depends on the personality of your dog.  Knowing your dog's limitations and temperament will determine where and what type of trip you will take. We suggest things based off of the knowledge of our dog. We know that all dogs are not the same so please don't get discouraged if your dogs don't react the same way as Tucker in situations!

Short road trips are a great way to teach your dog how to handle new situations and build up to longer even more exciting adventures!

Tucker sleeping in car
A dog's life

The Importance of Hooking Up Abroad

French guys in America, English guys in Spain, Spanish guys in France, and Argentinians in, well, Argentina. Traveling abroad, among other things, is about hooking up.

Telo in Argentina, where tourists go to hook up abroad.
Telo in Argentina

Are girls sluts if they sleep around? (Don't answer that.) Are they tramps if their repertoire includes people of other languages, countries, and cultures?

Absolutely not. In my opinion, they're resourceful. I should clarify what this "hooking up" business is, exactly. 

Not until I traveled abroad did I realize that I had a PG-rated conception, and so I'm using the term as such. Hooking up in my eyes was making out. Anything past that was, well, something past that. 

"Yeah, dude, I totally hooked up with Roberto in the middle of the dance floor last night," I told Caroline, a hostel roommate. "You WHAT?"

Come to think of it, I've gotten more strange looks than I've deserved over the years. I shouldn't over-generalize. Some people are committed (maybe even faithful), celibate, or unlucky at gettin' lucky. 

Just like single or promiscuous people miss out on things by not settling down with one individual, those who don't hook up while traveling miss out as well. Hooking up, in my eyes, is learning. Traveling and living in hostels is life in fast-forward. 

People are constantly coming and going, which has its pluses and minuses, but knowing you have just two coinciding days with some 28-year-old Australian may make the seven-year age gap less off-putting as you consider the question, "what's the worst that can happen?" and rationalize, "I've got no time to waste."

It's the perfect opportunity for trial-and-error; a chance to do things that are far less appealing when involving a co-worker or classmate you'll see come Monday. And how much about the world will you learn from someone who lives in your neighborhood compared to a member of the opposite sex from another country?

Impotence warning in Brazil.
Impotence warning in Brazil

The benefits extend past the obvious. Hooking up removes a wall and opens a door. Let the knowledge flood in.

There's nothing like the insight gained lying side-by-side in a twin hostel bed on pilling sheets after sleeping with a Brazilian, hearing mumbled Portuguese/Spanish about how they haven't felt so relaxed since they found their pet monkey after it escaped from their Copacabana balcony to a playground when they were twelve years old.

It sparked my interest. A month later, I found myself in that part of Rio de Janeiro with an Israeli who taught me how to cook shakshuka and to let my "independent girl" guard down.

I spent a few hour-and-forty-five-minute blocks of time in "telos," more or less sex hotels, which are a cultural staple, with a Buenos Aires native. I learned about idioms and local bands. And I took two-hour local buses to his suburban neighborhood, which I would never have visited had I not "known a guy."

I'd rather hear about childhood memories and be shown around by a local than read the "culture" and "where to go" sections in the Lonely Planet guidebook, and I think most people would concur.

Considering the experiences, the language, the stories, and the cultural understanding that come with it, I think all who have done so have to agree that traveling abroad wouldn't be traveling without hooking up.

Introducing T-roy: Forget Obligation Go Global...it's my odyssey!

People often ask why I have a hyphen in my name and although my parents didn't do drugs the real truth is a friend gave it to me as a nickname back in high school.  By birth, my name is Troy Floyd but for reasons of wanting to be unique, I kept the hyphen.

I come from a small town in heartland USA located in Licking, Missouri with a population of only 1,500 people and that's counting the prisoners.   I've heard all the jokes and used to just tell people I'm from Lincoln, as it saved me 10 min of introduction time on having to explain my hometown's weird name (and no, the school's mascot is not the beavers!).

Growing up, I wanted to travel but always thought you had to have rich parents or be old or retired.  When I was younger, my top 3 places to go to were Brazil, Italy, and Germany.

I made it to Germany when I was 21 and drank beer at the Oktoberfest, courtesy of Uncle Sam and the US Army.

I finally got to travel on my own for the first time in Italy in the summer of 2005.  I spent two weeks there with my cousin and we went to as many places as we could in that small amount of time.

After that, I knew I was hooked...I needed more travel.  I finally got out of the military and took a job that gave me a free ticket to travel anywhere in the world for 2 weeks, every 4 months.  The only drawback to this job was that I had to work 12hr days, 7 days a week!

After the first year, the money was good but it was the travel that I loved.  Spinning the globe and throwing my finger down, thinking to myself "Huh, Bali, Indonesia. Never been there, why not!" was a great feeling.  I stayed with the job for another 2 more years and in that time I got to travel to almost 20+ different countries.

It wasn't until I went to Australia that I realized that the job wasn't giving me enough of what I wanted.  I mean how does one see Oz in 2 weeks?  It was then that I realized to be happy I needed to quit and travel as much as I could.

Of course, this is a catch-22 because the more I travel, the longer my list grows.  The more I talk with other backpackers, the more I find out about new, secret places I haven't been to.

I quit my job in April 2009 and moved to Thailand for 3 months.  I used Bangkok as my hub and traveled as much of Asia as I could.

I then moved to Quito, Ecuador and have been doing nothing that relates to anything responsible but loving life.  Still, haven't made it to Brazil yet...but I see that changing soon in the future!

I started my own website/blog to track the people I met, to show the world the things I see and to keep me busy since I don't have a job.  I use a Canon DSLR 5D camera for all my photos and travel with about 5 lenses and my handy Mac book for editing.  ½ my luggage weight is due to photography gear, but I think it's worth it, and love showing my readers the beauty of the world.

If anyone has a camera-related question, I'd be more than happy to answer questions but do admit I'm no expert.

To keep up with me more, check me out at my website, or on Twitter and Facebook:

Friday Flashback - McLeod Ganj in Northern India

McLeod Ganj, India
McLeod Ganj, India

After missing out on the opportunity to visit Tibet due to the pre-Olympic riots in Lhasa months earlier, I was excited to finally reach McLeod Ganj in Northern India. 

Home to His Holiness the Dalai Lama, and the largest community of Tibetans outside of Tibet, it was the perfect place to rest my weary bones for a few weeks. 

It turned out to be one of my longest stops on the whole trip around the world.

I explored, I trekked, I learned, I meditated, I shopped, I reunited with friends from Nepal, I ate delicious Indian curries and Tibetan dumplings, and dropped out of a Tibetan thangka painting class (because I'm such a rebel).

Making My Way to McLeod Ganj (epic 24-hour journey from Agra)

A Teaching by His Holiness the Dalai Lama (priceless experience)

Class Schedule:  Thangka Painting and Tibetan Cooking

Arranging a Trek to Indrahar Pass (7-part trekking series)

Street scene in McLeod Ganj
Street scene in McLeod Ganj

It wasn't all fun and games. As with the rest of India, there are the poor and destitute seeking money on the streets. 

In McLeod Ganj's case, those people were often lepers, missing one or both of their hands. 

It took the daily encounters with the poor to a whole new level. 

I'm not sure I ever got use to seeing them hold out their arms for change.

Tibetan Acupuncture and Massage

My Daily Life in McLeod Ganj (food, Khana Nirvana Community Cafe, Ex-Political Prisoner Talk, Public Audience with 17th Karmapa, Euro Championship 2008)

Marie Arrives (Reuniting with a friend from Nepal)

Steve's Birthday, My Departure

Tibetan Bakery
Tibetan Bakery

Expat: Women's True Tales of Life Abroad

Expat
Expat: Women's True Tales of Life Abroad

I promise I don't only read travelogues and memoirs by women, it just happens to be that I've consequently read many of the sort.

Still, there's certain safety concerns and precautions that I would assume cloud the mind of female globetrotters more so than their male counterparts.

This book, Expat: Women's True Tales of Life Abroad, is a testimonial to just that.

The writers of these 22-short stories are teachers, international businesswomen, mothers, and students (like I was). 

They've traveled and settled in places as far as Borneo; they've lived alongside the coasts of Greece and within the family homes of Egypt.

Others have moved to neighboring countries like Mexico or placed their roots in the so-called familiar such as Australia (in reality, the English language is the only similarity, and about half of it at that). 

Expat: Women's True Tales of Life Abroad literally and honestly makes its way around the world.

It should be no surprise then, that this book lured me in from the start.

I don't recall having doubts, but if I had, the back cover alone would have eliminated them:

Expat taps into the bewilderment, joys, and surprises of life overseas, where challenges often take unexpected forms and overcoming obstacles (finding Drano in Ukraine, shrimp paste in Prague) feels all the more triumphant.

Featuring an astonishing range of perspectives, destinations, and circumstances, Expat offers a beautiful portrait of life abroad.

There is a difference, you see, between traveling and living abroad, one that I have experienced first hand.

I've had the opportunity to visit multiple beautiful places and cultures around the world and yet have only had the unique honor of living in three international cities.

I am not saying that this is a small amount, for I am aware that the majority of people can go their entire lives without making a home outside the borders of the United States or Canada, I am just pointing out a contrast.

This contrast is similar to many expats, a certain period of time in one country, maybe two, and it is certainly true of the writers in this book.

To live as an expat signifies that you not only observe the culture, you experience it, you don't only practice the language, you learn it, you don't only taste the local cuisine, it becomes your primary sustenance.

Whether you yourself have lived it or not, Expat: Women's True Tales of Life Abroad is an inspiring must-read.

Any reader with a passion for travel can understand the transforming effects of cross-cultural experiences; these memories don't just tell the stories of our past, they dictate our future.

And this alone will continue to motivate us to step outside our comfort zones time and time again.

As risky as it may be, there is no other way to find yet another home that we never knew existed.

Crafting an ESL Schedule, or the Art of Saying No

The morning after sending my resume to four prospective Czech language schools, I awoke to an equal number of enthusiastic interview requests. If anyone has experienced the far harsher task of job searching in our current economy, let this be the first indication that teaching ESL places you in a very faux reality.

Still, ego boosted with three on the spot job offers, I began the teacher's life by quickly learning my first lesson. See, language schools are typically comprised of two varieties of staff, and sadly, we foreigners belong to the lesser group: the starry-eyed, inexperienced, uncommitted. The schools are fully aware that our dedication to our jobs (and quite often, their cities) will be transient.

The other group gets a bit more clout; they are the administration, the natives that corral new students, legalize we foreign workers, and most significantly, assign students to teachers. These all"“powerful course managers are perhaps the first hoop through which a newly minted ESL teacher must dive.

ESL materials

Here's where that middle school peer pressure education comes into practice. Many of us were recent college graduates who spent four years failing to remember the meaning of " no."? But in that first meeting with a course manager, I learned that " no"? was an ESL life skill I had better recollect.

Armed with pages of names, locations, and if you're lucky, a course level, course managers hunger to scrawl over every white space on a teacher's schedule. That may seem a humble task, but sadly, you, and your sanity, are not the priority at hand.

In my first meeting, charmed by the manager who complimented my most un-Czech curls and professional smile, I was easily wooed, and I left with a piece of paper that made my kindergarten scribbles looks like pristine spreadsheets from Microsoft Excel.

7 AM across the river on a Friday morning? Well, the students are so, so kind. 8:30 PM the night before? Well, they've been searching for a teacher for so, so long. Four ninety minute lessons, back-to-back, straight through lunch? Well, students always offer coffee and water, food is for the weak.

Czech Republic

I worked at two schools in Prague, and when my meeting at the second arrived, I had one mantra in my brain: just say no.

Yes, you obviously need to accept some courses - but you don't need them all.  I can promise that schools will always have more lessons to offer.  Time and sanity, on the other hand?  Those may run out, and when you're living abroad, both are far too precious to waste.

___

ESL photo courtesy of http://bmcnally.aupairnews.com/files/2009/03/books_00210724220_stdjpg.jpeg

Introducing Andy & Shelly - Traveling Couple & Dog Lovers

paris
Andy & Shelly in Paris

Hello Everyone. My name is Andy and my fiance's name is Shelly. We hail from the Midwest, specifically Iowa. Yes, Iowa.

Home of farms, pigs, corn, and the best state fair known to man!

Shelly works as a costumer in films and I work for a financial company here in Iowa as an underwriter.

We know what you are thinking, " What do two corn-fed twenty something's know about traveling?"

Well, Shelly has always been addicted to traveling and I have recently caught the travel bug with my first backpacking trip through Europe.

Up until this year, most of my travel experiences have been road trips with my family, while my fiance has been over to Europe and down in the Caribbean multiple times.

Her previous experiences (and let's be honest, constant pestering) led us to our first European Excursion as a couple. Traveling as a couple for 2 months in a foreign country is a huge learning experience both culturally and personally.

Unfortunately, when we got back from our European adventures we both needed to find "big kid" jobs. 

In the process of becoming "big kids" we thought it would be a great idea to get a dog. Somehow we settled on a Newfoundland.

Our darling Tucker resembles a mini horse, weighing in at one hundred pounds at just six months old.   

We have had a few experiences traveling with the big guy around Iowa but plan on adventuring out of state in the near future.

Below is a picture of Tucker taken by Shelly's awesome colleague Greg Frieden.

Traveling to us is an adventure.

Having the freedom to navigate a foreign country/state, experience new foods, and liquors, and being together, is a thrill we live for on every trip we embark on. 

Traveling is our way to escape the real world and enter into our own zone where the stresses of everyday life can't reach us.

Shelly and I are thrilled to join the Go Backpacking family and share our experiences with the community.

We will be writing together and will be posting articles on traveling as a couple, traveling with a big dog, the United States and Caribbean travel, beer and other liquors found throughout the world, and other advice that we feel is necessary.

We will be posting soon.

Cheers

tucktuck

So, How Do I Become A Couchsurfer?

Couchsurfing is an excellent way to find a cheap place to stay in Tokyo, Japan
Couchsurfing in Tokyo (photo: Dave Lee)

Q: Sounds great, so how do I become a Couchsurfer?

A: Okay, so I have intrigued you enough to want to join the project, but where do you begin? 

First, I urge you to get on the site and browse through some members profiles, in order to become familiar with everything.  

Also, it is probably a good idea to start with looking at members that live in your area, since hopefully, you will soon be meeting up with them. 

Definitely check out the most active profiles to get a sense of how to fill yours out.

Once you have spent some time doing this and you are ready to officially join, click the " Sign Up" button on the top right of the screen. 

Please keep in mind that you do not have to go full force in the beginning. 

This is a free site with absolutely no commitments required. 

There are many options you can choose depending on how serious you are.

You can simply meet for "coffee or a drink" and you do not even have to offer your couch! 

Or you can jump in full steam ahead and offer your couch immediately. 

Just know that Couchsurfing is a very personal experience and there is no one pushing you to do anything.

Create A Profile

After registering, you will need to create your profile. 

Again, it is solely up to you how much information you offer, however, keep in mind that the more information you share the better it is for everyone because it improves your odds of finding a trustworthy guest and for people to think you are trustworthy as well. 

Putting up some pictures of yourself is essential. 

Couchsurfers need to know who they are looking for when they first meet you and it only adds more to your trustworthiness.

Build References

The next key thing is receiving your first reference. The more references, the better. 

Getting the first few can be difficult, so it is helpful if maybe you have a friend or travel partner that can sign up at the same time. This way you can leave mutual references for each other.

Attend Meet-ups

If not, start going to the local Couchsurfing meet-ups. You can do this by searching the " groups." 

Once you join a group you'll be alerted to any gatherings or events in your area.

The Charlotte group seems to have events once a week, whereas when I lived in NYC there were many events to choose from every single day. 

This is a fast way to make a lot of friends who are potential positive references!

Contact Ambassadors

Another suggestion is to locate the local " Ambassador/s."

An Ambassador is a member who has a lot of experience with Couchsurfing and has proven to be a valuable resource to the site and to the area where they reside.  They will definitely be a wealth of information.

Remember, move at the pace in which you most feel comfortable.

I encourage you to join the group closest to where you live if nothing else. 

I strongly believe that once you have dipped your toes into the Couchsurfing water you will quickly want to dive straight in!

Next week, I will be answering the question: "I am now officially a Couchsurfer, but is it really that safe?"

Destination Asia: Where to Start?

Noteworthy Travel Books

So you've decided to travel to a faraway corner of the Earth, but you have a lot of planning ahead of you, and you're lost on how to start. 

Well, I can help, I may have been called over prepared on several occasions, but I've never been caught with my pants down.

When you're traveling, you want to be surprised by only the good things that happen around you, not when you unintentionally anger the locals by mistakenly calling the Czech Republic Czechoslovakia.

Before I can nail down a single detail, I need to get a feel of the country or region that I'll be exploring. 

Luckily in the digital age, travel information has never been easier to come by and generally has never been of higher quality, if you look in the right places.

The problem is that there is too much information for one person to wade through effectively. 

I take the spaghetti approach to travel research, throw everything at a wall, and see what sticks. 

All the resources in this article stuck.

Wikitravel

The Holy Grail of travel information is Wikitravel, like Wikipedia for all things, travel this site is written by other travelers all over the world and continually amazes me by how accurate and insightful its content is.

99% percent of destinations are covered and if your destination isn't, then add it for other travelers to build upon.

If you need to know the top destinations in the country, and what they have to offer, Wikitravel is your Sherpa. 

With Wikitravel at your side, the need for a guidebook is greatly diminished, though I would still suggest getting one for your pre-trip planning.

Lonely Planet has never steered me wrong, and I've been using Southeast Asia: On a Shoestring as my planning guide.

One of the most valuable sections will be the "Get in" section, unlike guidebooks which often offer only a few options and outdated prices, Wikitravel will usually cover travel options that you won't find elsewhere.

Lonely Planet

Speaking of Lonely Planet, they offer several other services that are valuable. 

The Lonely Planet website is an excellent resource for basic information, and they are continually adding articles and other valuable content. 

Without it, I would never have planned a three-day moto trip in Northern Thailand. Be sure to check it every once in a while for new content. 

It is also an excellent guide for seasonal weather information.

Exponentially more valuable than their website is Lonely Planet's Twitter feed. 

Users submit travel related articles by tagging a tweet with #lp and a team of Lonely Planet staffers review all the links and post the best of the best through their Twitter Feed. 

This opens a whole new world of resources as you will find articles that would be lost in the noise of the blogosphere, let Lonely Planet do the filtering for you.

Be warned that if you follow their tweets, your do-before-you-die list will become substantially longer in a short amount of time.

UNESCO

UNESCO is a specialized agency of the United Nations, and as part of its duties, UNESCO designates locales around the world as World Heritage Sites. 

These sites are named for their cultural, historical, or natural significance, and are always a great day out on the road.  

If you're looking for the best attractions in a country the UNESCO website is a great place to start.

I've never been disappointed by a UNESCO site.

Though sites aren't present in every country, there are 890 sites worldwide, so the chances are that the country your visiting has several on offer.

Whatsonwhen

Some of the most memorable when times traveling are found at festivals when the locals are out and are exuding their culture.

Whatsonwhen.com is a global directory of festivals and events.

I dare you to search, the amount of information they have is stunning.  If you can alter your plans slightly to attend a festival, I doubt that you would regret it.

Travel Etiquette

Every country has different customs and cultural norms; unless you're traveling with a local, then you may get caught in a few sticky situations. Travel Etiquette aims to help you act like a farang just a little less. 

Travel Etiquette has a host of articles detailing the norms and no-nos for countries all around the world. 

If you dropped a coin in Thailand, would you step on it to stop it from rolling?

I would hope not, that coin bears the likeness of the King of Thailand, and even the smallest sign of disrespect towards him will land you in hot water.

BootsnAll

The best information that you will ever get is from your fellow travelers, that is why travel forums like BootsnAll are so important.

All travelers love to share their experiences and wisdom, and as a result, these forums are a bottomless pit of information.

If you can't find the answer to your question with a search then, by all means, sign-up and ask away, your fellow travelers are willing and able to answer.

Bloggers

Before you can make any decisions, you'll need to be aware of the costs associated with a trip. Dave's cost sheet is an excellent way to understand the financial responsibilities of travel for your destination. 

Travel Books

Of course, the web is not the end all be all of the information, books still offer a wealth of quality of information. 

In addition to my guidebook, books such as 1,000 Places to See Before You Die: A Traveler's Life List are an excellent reference, though I would skip the hotel suggestions. 

Books that focus on other travelers experiences are a valuable way to learn about life in another country, Travelers' Tales Thailand: True Stories gave me a unique perception of what it's like to be a traveler in Thailand, but only time will tell if it checks out.

As a political person, books like Confessions of an Economic Hitman and The Black Book of Canadian Foreign Policy provide a unique and in-depth understanding of the West's involvement in the region and the repercussions that those actions had.

For instance, The Suharto dictatorship in Indonesia received aid from Canada, and after the fall of the Khmer Rouge, Canada supported a coalition government in Cambodia that would have included the former brutal dictators. 

Though not pretty, I'd much rather be an informed traveler, over a blissfully ignorant one.

If your still short on information, Wikipedia and Flickr are great backups. Flickr is especially valuable as a simple search will bring out the true beauty of any destination, even Winnipeg.

Here are a few other useful resources:

  • Information on corruption around the world
  • Quick visa information and travel warnings for every country
  • World's best data on train travel around the world

Friday Flashback - The Taj Mahal & Red Fort in Agra, India

Side view of the Taj Mahal
Side view of the Taj Mahal

On the overnight train from Varanasi to Agra, I saw my first purple sunset and met a Parisian by the name of Laura, who would eventually show me around her home town.

Agra surprised me in that even the budget backpacker hotels had stunning views of the Taj Mahal, at least on the rooftop where meals were served.  While you can visit the icon of India as a day trip from Delhi, I would consider it a shame to not spend at least 24 hours in Agra, taking in the building during various stages of day and night.

Specifically, you can try your hand at shooting monkeys off the rooftops or flying kites at sunset with the locals.

Arriving in Agra

The Taj Mahal

Agra Fort And Kites At Sunset

Flickr Photo Set:  Varanasi & Agra

Why I Hate the Indian Bureaucracy (Part 2)

And that's when I got the help I couldn't do without. I used the last of my funds to get a cab from the edge of town I crawled to to get to the bar where I met two Peace Corps volunteers, mutual friends of a sorority sister, and agents of my temporary salvation.

I took the weekend off from harassing embassies and enjoyed the hospitality of two fellow compatriots. And I finally found a good ATM, hence my relief.

[Written over a beer after the first successful ATM transaction:]

"Relief, and that's all that spills out as my hand shakes and body tingles; such a small scale scrimp session, but I had no way of putting cash in my hands and saw a future filled with problems.

Leaning on the hospitality of others was my only way out of a week in a bus station and walking 20 kilometers with a 20 kilo pack on a road not made for pedestrians.

The luxury of this cold beer was hard earned and all the more appreciated, beyond its already praised existence. Thank you, Stanbic Bank, for your loyalty to MasterCard and for not giving up on me."

That week would have been much less glamorous had I not met these new friends. To give you an idea, I was contemplating sleeping in the bus station.

I did it the first night, curled up next to about 100 mothers and children, holding my bag straps around my legs and resting it on my feet like a penguin's egg. I awoke with the imprint of Under Armour on my cheek, but it wasn't half bad for a few hours' sleep.

Monday, I arrived at the High Commission office in time for the afternoon pick-up of my visa. The receptionist was beautiful and incredibly sophisticated, but for the sake of my story and memories, I remember the woman who made me cry three times as a "vacuous troll."

She made a miscalculation on my visa fees, forgetting roughly $30, and couldn't process my request. My flight was 24 hours away. Her cryptic explanations didn't satisfy me, and I lost it - a sobbing that ignored the discomfort of the four other people in the room and the signs that forbade erratic or unhelpful behavior. I can't help it; sometimes I bust.

Once again, the High Commissioner came out to silence my hysterics and try to assure me that coming first thing tomorrow with more money would possibly get me results.

James, my new friend and chauffeur, let me vent my troubles and offered advice while he drove me back to the hostel. He provided grandfather-like sympathy and even took additional money off the already agreed-upon, reasonable taxi fare.

He agreed to take me in the morning for the last attempt before I had to launch into Plan B, a complete change in flight plan to Nepal.

That last night, I reflected in a crowded bar:

"I've been late before for events, in dangerous places I shouldn't have been, but I've never felt the imminent stress of my physical existence and its acceptance in its space more than I do right now. Today, I broke the emotional seal, observed by many who have never seen a woman cry..."

The morning came. I was equipped with more money and my evacuation plans. Osmosis took my anticipation to the front seat and transferred the jitters to a hopeful James. He forfeited the profits of the morning to wait for my verdict in the parking lot.

Inside, the woman took my money, gave me a receipt, and then announced that today was not my lucky day. At this point, the two people behind the plastic partition waited and winced for the sobs they knew were surely on their way.

And then a breakthrough. The head honcho asked, "You are from Indiana. Is that near Chicago or Houston?" It was roughly 2 a.m. when he dialed the authorities in the Windy City, leading me to believe he finally flexed his administrative muscles to sidestep the agony of watching me cry one more time. 

My hand was jotting mid-sentence in my journal when he reemerged from the back with a smile, holding my thick, blue passport. I wrote in big, bold letters, immediately:

SALVATION
RELIEF
WATERWORKS

Seven hours to take off, and I got clearance. The guard at the gate, by now knowing who I was and the details of my trials, gave me his heartfelt congratulations.

James saw my cheerful stride and started the engine, his massive jowls frozen in a smile. I went back to the hostel, announced my success to those who knew of the bureaucratic struggle, and gave out lollipops like it was my victory parade.

I guzzled three beers, threw on my bag, and went to my flight, but not before falling asleep at the airline gate with my bag perched on my feet, sweating out the Mosi lagers that rewarded my exhaustion and my triumph.

Have you ever run into a situation with difficult embassies abroad?  Leave us a comment and let's commiserate together.

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Dave at Ahu Ko Te Riku on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile.

Hi, I'm Dave

Editor in Chief

I've been writing about adventure travel on Go Backpacking since 2007. I've visited 68 countries.

Read more about Dave.

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