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ESL Lesson Planning: Breaking the Ice

Remember ice-breakers?

For me, they bring back two associations: one, awkward moments at teenage summer camp, and two, awkward moments at college freshman orientation.

There were the games where you had to throw a ball from person to person, I have no hand-eye coordination, so those were always uncomfortable.  Or, there were the wordy ones where you needed an adjective to place in front of your name, for some reason, no good adjectives begin with the letter " L,"? other than loud, which I am not.

Basically, ice-breakers and I don't get along.

As an ESL instructor, there are times that may require you to become a bit of a hypocrite.  January often brings along new courses, new schedules, and new students, meaning one important thing: you need to learn everyone's name.

And so, as a teacher, I found myself armed with an ever-growing supply of ice-breaking games.  Some came from textbooks, usually for lower levels.  Others came from summer camp: requesting students find an adjective to describe themselves, as well as remember those of their peers, turned out to be a great way to build an introductory list of vocabulary.

Those fuzzy memories from freshman orientation had their place as well.  Drinking games made remarkable ice-breakers, even without the courage-inducing liquor.  Two truths and a lie was my go-to game on every first day: no materials were required, save for a pen and a paper, which students (hopefully) provided themselves.  Even better, the statements very often sparked further conversation, which is a big help in that first class, when textbooks haven't yet been purchased.

I knew I would have groaned at the thought of playing a name game had I been the student, but selfishly, ice-breakers made my life a lot easier.   I always remembered Marketa as the uncoordinated one, just like me, who nearly took off Jan's head throwing around a ball.  I might have otherwise struggled to distinguish between Petr and Tomas, had Petr not called himself "pretty" on that first day: it's tough to forget a bald, burly man who chooses that word.  Plus, I learned that if you're not required to participate, ice-breakers can be a whole lot of fun.  When you're teaching, fun makes all the difference in the world.

2 Wheels and The French Riviera

ExcaliberWhile Shelly and I were in the French Riviera we decided to check out, and see if we could rent, a scooter.

We had previously thought about this many times in different locations, but due to not finding a shop or being scared to death, we avoided the situation. In Nice, France we stayed at a hotel that was located about 2 blocks away from a scooter rental shop. Why not try to scooter up and down the French Riviera?  And Shelly was the one who suggested it!

Once we got our scooter, and Shelly on the back, we took off for a quick spin to try out the new wheels. Boy it was fun, but very scary. Driving in a foreign country on a two-wheeled bike is both exciting and thrilling. It is hard to navigate certain areas, especially if you cannot read the language very well.  Luckily, we had GPS that guided us most of the way.

After a quick bite to eat, we decided to head over to Cannes. The ride was amazing because it was on a highway next to the beach. It was very pretty and seemed straight from a movie. Traffic was not bad at all and we were flowing smoothly.

Then we came to an intersection where we could not decide which way to go.

Green or Blue?

We chose Blue wrong decision.

Blue means the French Interstate. I saw the speed limit of 125 Km/Hr and tried to convert it in my head as cars were whizzing by us at a high rate of speed. Shelly, after about a mile on the interstate, very calmly stated that I should probably take the next exit. Very wise words of wisdom that I took to heart because I will now only follow green signs in France, unless in a car.

Once we got into Cannes we had a great time viewing the big boats in the marina and walking/scootering up and down the sandy beaches. During our walk, we decided that our scooter needed a name. We decided to name it Excelsior after the name of the scooter model, and South Park.

One really cool thing we saw in Cannes was a guy making a sand sculpture of 2 people riding on a motorcycle. How fitting for our little adventure. Shelly had a great idea, ice cream on the beach. She saw a Haagen Dazs about 2 blocks away from where we were, so we got some ice cream and sat on the beach. The beach was wonderful and calming.

And highly entertaining when a little boy pulled down his pants and proceeded to pee on the beach, near the water. I wanted to start filming, but Shelly said it may be illegal in some states. So we just laughed that his parents just watched him and did nothing to stop him.

Sand Sculptures
Sand scupture

Following our adventure to Cannes, we went back up to Nice to grab some more clothes for our ride back to Monaco. But we failed to grab enough clothes. All of a sudden, Shelly just stopped talking. I thought she fell off, but it turns out she was freezing. It took her about an hour to warm up after the hour long ride.  during the warming up process, she twisted her ankle and started cursing at Monaco and their curbs.

It turns out that Monte Carlo is a ghost town at night, and everything was closed at 8 pm. Even restaurants! We thought people here ate late, but not in Monaco. We walked around for two hours taking some cool night pictures of Monaco. During the picture taking process, we were looking for restaurants as well. We finally found one, a pizzeria. We basically lived off pizza in France and Italy, but once it hits your lips it is so good.

Shelly had an idea of driving slower on the way home, it actually worked and made the ride enjoyable and calming. Did I mention I am a genius? I had hand warmers that Shelly dug out of my bag. But anybody going to the French Riviera, we suggest renting a Vespa because it is better than sitting in a train, makes you feel very independent, and is very picturesque.

Shelly Observing Monaco
The French Riviera

Dare to Travel Beyond Your Comfort Zone in 2010

Steve Roll on location in Mexico
On vacation in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

This is a guest post by Steve Roll. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

In Dave's e-book Dare Me!, he describes the dares his readers put him up to during his trip around the world. In exchange for performing a dare, Dave received a small cash gift.

Despite Dave's best efforts he couldn't accomplish some of the challenges because he found them to be either too socially awkward or dangerous.

While Dave sometimes came up short, I believe his willingness to take risks enhanced his travel experience.

Traveling can be risky. Plenty of news outlets will tell you the world is a dangerous place. In Latin America---the area of the world I blog about---2009 was marked by saturation coverage of the drug cartel crisis in Mexico, followed by wide-spread hysteria over the H1N1 virus.

Red Carpet Treatment

But that didn't keep my family and I from taking a 10-day vacation in Mexico soon after the Centers for Disease Control lifted its non-essential travel warning. I'm glad we did. Besides finding incredibly low room rates and a peso that was at historic lows against the dollar, we received the red-carpet treatment from nearly everyone we met.

The trip reaffirmed my relatively new-found belief that avoiding risk at all costs can be just as ruinous to a person's quality of life as illness or being victimized by crime.

Our attitude about risk shapes many aspects of our lives, including how we handle our finances. In the volatile economy at the outset of 2009, it seemed only prudent to remove your retirement savings from the stock market. But doing so would have meant missing out on the gains the market recorded by the end of the year.

Not so long ago, when it came to travel, my risk tolerance level was about as low as the interest rate on a U.S. savings bond. I believed it was best to play it safe by restricting my travels to the U.S., Canada or major European destinations such as London or Paris.

Guadalajara's Centro Historico near Plaza Tapatia
Guadalajara's Centro Historico near Plaza Tapatia

Orchid Thief

But my attitude about risk began to change after I read The Orchid Thief by Susan Orlean. The book is a biography of orchid enthusiast John Laroche. Orlean begins writing about Laroche soon after he is prosecuted for picking rare orchids in a protected wetland in south Florida.

What makes the book special is that Orlean will stop at nothing in doing what it takes to describe the orchids and the subculture that is so passionate about them. At one point, she wades neck deep in an alligator infested swamp in search of a rare Ghost Orchid. Her only protection is two machete wielding convicts who wade in with her. The book is filled with accounts of Orchid enthusiasts who have taken far greater risks throughout history.

The Orchid Thief prodded me to accept a little more risk in my life. This means taking vacations in Mexico or Costa Rica instead of Disney World---even if it means fending off warnings from the latest news reports.

So far, the returns have been very good.

______

Steve Roll writes about traveling to Mexico and Latin America on his blog Travelojos. Follow him on Twitter at @Travelojos

Backpack with Brock On A 'Round the World Trip

Backpack with Brock
Backpack with Brock

I remember reading Brock Groombridge's first e-mail to me while I was sitting at a computer in the reception area of Casa Kiwi Hostel in Medellin, Colombia last year. 

He was planning a trip around the world to begin in January 2010 and had been reading up on my experiences at this blog.

His writing reflected his enthusiasm, and I enjoyed taking the time to answer his questions regarding how to go about setting up a great travel blog for his impending adventures.

The result of his efforts is Backpack with Brock, a straightforward and stylish WordPress-based video blog using a Woo Theme.

His tagline says it all:

Follow one guy around the world in HD video & learn how you can to

That's right, Brock wants to video blog his way around the world to over 20 countries on 6 continents.

Less than 24 hours from the time this post is published, he'll be flying over the Pacific toward New Zealand, which should be a good bit warmer than his native Toronto.

From there, his itinerary indicates a swing through Australia before heading to Southeast Asia and then China and Nepal in April, and India in May. 

From there, he'll head up to Europe and then back down to Africa, hopefully hitting Kenya before jetting off to Brazil and exploring a bit of Latin America before stopping off in New York City en route back to Canada.

Bet Brock is a way to share in the experience.

He's putting himself on the line for some challenging (or more likely, funny and embarrassing) activities. 

He'll video his attempt to complete the bet and post it to the blog.

In exchange, you the reader, offer up a donation via PayPal to make it worth his while.

I find that once I'm invested in a traveler's experience, I'll follow him or her for months, if not years. 

I have a feeling it'll be a lot of fun to watch Brock head off into the great unknown.

Be sure to check out Backpack with Brock, follow him on Twitter, or join his Facebook Fan Page today!

Pros & Cons for Backpacking Cuba

Cuba
Che Guevara's legend lives on in Cuba

After backpacking Cuba last month, I found the country to be unique in so many ways. 

Some good and some bad, so I thought I would lay out the pros and cons of traveling to Cuba independently.

Pros:

The Architecture

Some of the most stunning I have ever seen!  In the old town of Havana just walking the streets, soaking up the colonial architecture and rich colors, one could easily spend a week there doing nothing but that.

1950's-era Cars

It was like going to a car show every day.  Again, classic shots for anyone and was a joy to see them running up and down the road.

The Beaches

Beautiful beaches with crystal blue water and the purest white sand make it hard not to just sit around all day and drink rum.  I didn't do any scuba diving while there but I'm sure there are some gem spots to find.

Safety

I felt safe the whole time while there and never felt like I was going to be robbed or kidnapped just because I was a tourist.  Unlike other Latin countries, you won't find high gates around houses or broken glass on top of walls.

Cheap Cigars & Rum

I got a box of Cuban cigars for $15 that I could easily sell back in the US for a huge profit... if I could smuggle them in.

The Music

There is no such thing as a 3 or 4 man band there.  8 is the minimum, and more than likely you'll see 10-12 people in a band playing salsa music everywhere.

One thing about Cuba is that everyone has a CD, and I mean everyone.  If they play music, you can bet your arse they will try to sell you a CD afterward!  You've been warned!

The Clubs

Nothing better than a hot Havana night and you can find a ton of hot chica's in the clubs.  Just be careful though, because 1-2 are working (see below though for the rest).

Cons:

It's a Communist Country

If you're American, remember you have no embassy and technically you're not supposed to be there.

That being said, expect to get drilled when going in and out of immigration about what you did, how much money you spent, where you stayed, etc.

If you're a blogger, don't tell them that.  

They freaked out on me during the interrogation (basically that's what it was when leaving) because I said I had a website and I guess they thought that I was some kind of CIA spy journalist or something.

No Internet

The government controls everything and the internet is outlawed except for a few special circumstances. 

The only places that will have internet for tourists to use are the nice resorts.

It's big-time expensive, costing anywhere from $7-12 per hour and slow doesn't even describe it.

Forget about WiFi as I don't think they even know what that is... so bringing the laptop will be nothing but a paperweight.

Public Transportation

It's next to nothing.  The whole tourist industry is set-up for guided tours and not independent travel as most backpackers are used to.

One of the first things I noticed, once I got outside of Havana, was the line of people you would see standing along the highways trying to get picked-up.

The bus system is so horrible that it takes locals days to get from one side of the island to the other, sometimes even weeks.

Renting a car is possible but the costs are high. It's one country where it pays to be on a tour, but they still suck as you get fed the cookie-cutter guided package that we all hate and strive to avoid.

The Double Currencies

When in Asia, you have to deal with the double standards in costs, one for tourists and one for locals.  

In Cuba, they simplified it by making you use a separate currency guaranteed to cost you double on anything a local would buy.

There are two types of currencies:  Tourists use Cuban Convertibles (CUC) and locals use Cuban Pesos (CUP).

For example, we once went to get ice cream in a small town and paid 1 CUC per cone, but later found out if you're local you could get 1 cone for 1 CUP (Cuban Peso).

That ended out coming to 24 cones for a local, and 1 for a tourist, for the same price.  To convert CUC and CUP click here.

Don't bother with bringing US dollars either, as the government slaps a 10% tax for any transactions with them and all American credit cards won't work their either.

Hotels Only

If you're backpacking there and think you're going to stay at a cheap hostel to save money, good luck finding one.  

Just go to Hostelbookers.com and try to find a hostel for Cuba.  I'll give ya a hint, there aren't any!

All the major resorts and hotels are owned by the government, and it's pretty much illegal for locals to have their own.

I heard if you get lucky you can score some cheap accommodation by staying at a local's house, but these rooms rented out are illegal a lot of the time and you're on your own if caught.  It's doable but it takes some looking around.

Che Che Che

The communist propaganda is everywhere and you can't escape it.  After a few days of seeing Che everywhere, it just gets old.  It's history and I appreciate that, but it's overbearing at times.

It was cool to see his face on every billboard on the first day.  By the 2nd, it was ok.  The 3rd bearable, and by the 4th you were sick of seeing his face.

Everywhere you went, that was all there was: Che this, Che that, Che pissed here once.  

It would be like going to the USA and seeing nothing but Obama, Obama and Obama crap 24/7 (which we know doesn't happen).

The Clubs

Maybe I have been in South America too long, but paying more than a few dollars to get into a club is loco to me.  

All the hottest clubs that anyone told us to see while there charged a minimum $10 entrance fee.

I tried to ask where the locals went, as I didn't want to party with a bunch of Westerners, but they all said the same thing "Everyone cool is going to Club _____" (ie; $10 cover fee).

Maybe I just had bad luck but it seemed the norm to me the 3 nights I went out while there for a week.

I think the only way to see Cuba (unless you know someone there) is by an organized tour.

I won't lie though, the last 2 days I was so sick of the resort-style vacation (which I've never really been a fan of) but it seemed to me that's how almost all the tourists were traveling.

I didn't see many young backpackers doing their own thing and I was actually trying to find a few to ask them some questions.

If you're going to Cuba and staying in Havana for a week, then, by all means, it's backpacker-friendly (minus the internet and lack of hostels), but anything else outside of Havana is terribly difficult.

Friday Flashback - Visa Run to Burma & Koh Phayam

Welcome to Koh Phayam - Thailand
Welcome to Koh Phayam - Thailand

After visiting the popular islands of Koh Samui and Koh Phangan, I was anxious to go a little off the beaten track.  The recommendation I got from an expat was called Koh Phayam - a little island near the Thai-Burmese border.  Lonely Planet didn't say much, which was the perfect sign I thought.

Of course I didn't realize that the popular islands are busy year-round, while lesser known, lesser developed islands like Koh Phayam close up shop in the low season.

To read more, check out these posts:

  • The Road to Rangon
  • To Burma and Back
  • Koh Phayam: One Remote and Desolate Beach

Next week, we're heading to the large island of Phuket, where I pretend to be Leonardo DiCaprio in The Beach, and fall unexpectedly ill at the epicenter of the world's sex tourism industry.

Up In The Air: The Ultimate Travel Movie?

One of my family's Christmas traditions is to go see a movie together. 

This year, a consensus was formed around George Clooney's new one, Up In The Air. 

I rarely go to the theater to see movies anymore, however, I was curious to see this one as it was being mentioned a lot on Twitter (and 99% of the people I follow on Twitter live and breathe all things "travel").

The movie revolves around Clooney's character, who spends 300+ days a year crisscrossing the United States by plane in order to lay people off at corporations. 

I'm sure business travelers and frequent fliers will get a kick out of the meticulous approach the character has developed toward efficiently moving in, around, and out of airports. 

While I still prefer a backpack to rolling luggage, I could appreciate his appreciation for being able to travel with only one carry on bag. 

It's liberating, though increasingly difficult as airport security rules continue to change.

And his goal for accumulating frequent flier miles is hard for this flier to imagine, yet apparently people have reached the figure in real life.

The monologue in the trailer above caught my attention when it was recited early in the movie because you don't normally associate backpacks with business travelers. 

Yet the message being delivered was right up my alley, "moving is living" and material possessions have a way of weighing you down. 

Meanwhile, the approach to the trailer itself seems to seriously underplay the role of relationships in the movie.

Clooney's character has two worth noting. The first is a petite young woman who is told to shadow him as he goes about the business of firing people, one by one. 

The second is a liaison he develops with another business traveler, a woman that purports to be the female version of him (meaning comfortable with no-strings-attached sex). 

As the movie unfolds, Clooney's character and unique approach toward lifestyle design is challenged by both of these new ladies in his life.

There were many poignant moments in the movie. Two stand out the most to me. 

First, while Clooney is trying to help a newly fired guy see the bright side of his situation, he talks about how the situation is an opportunity for the guy to revisit his love of cooking, versus finding another soulless office job. 

I could relate to this, not that my last job was soulless, but it wasn't my life's passion. 

The dialogue in this scene reminded me of Gary Vaynerchuk's book, Crush It!

In a later scene, Clooney is talking to his sister's fiance who experiences last-minute cold feet about the wedding. 

Despite all the traveling Clooney does, his rootless existence, the perceived lack of long term relationships, and his distant family connections, he still finds it in himself to say that experiences are better when shared. 

This was the #1 lesson I learned on my RTW trip. As much as I enjoy the feeling of independence when backpacking alone, I'm rarely alone. 

In fact, more often than not, I'm seeking out new friends and connections everywhere I go because I relish the companionship they offer, however brief at times.

Is Up In The Air the ultimate travel movie?

No, I don't think so.  And it's not the happiest movie either.  However, I thought it was worth the price of admission for the story, the cast, including George Clooney, Jason Batemen, Vera Farmiga, and Anna Kendrick, and the soundtrack.

Buying a Tibetan Prayer Wheel

While waiting for Pommes Frites to open in New York's East Village, I happened across Himalayan Vision. 

Knowing Tibetan shops are always warm and welcoming, I stepped inside to browse the same items I'd seen so many times in Nepal and Eastern and Northern India.

Tibetan Prayer Wheel
Tibetan Prayer Wheel

I asked the store owner where he was from, and he indicated Shimla in northern India. 

I had stopped short of Shimla during my journey, though I relayed the areas I did have a chance to visit, including McLeod Ganj. There was an instant connection, or so I felt.

I picked up a copy of a Buddhist chanting CD I'd heard almost daily in Nepal. 

The owner indicated it was popular, but I had already bought it before leaving the country. He started to play another CD for me instead.

One item I wanted to buy in the Himalayan region, but didn't want to carry around, was a prayer wheel. 

I'd spun them countless times - small ones, big ones, and seriously massive ones (see video below).  And always in a clockwise rotation according to custom.

Giant Prayer Wheel in Tibetan Monastery (Bodhgaya, India)

While traveling Asia in 2008, I asked all my questions about symbolism and materials. 

The bright blue stone is turquoise, and the red rock is coral. And my favorite, the rich dark blue stone, is lapis lazuli. 

The artists of the Italian Renaissance used to grind down lapis lazuli and paint with it. I always found it to be a striking color.

The inscribed mantra (prayer) on Tibetan crafts is always the same, whether you're buying a necklace, prayer wheel, or t-shirt: Om Mani Padme Hum.

The standard English translation is "Behold! The Jewel in the Lotus."

I'd recited the mantra countless times since learning about and practicing the principles of Tibetan Buddhism in my mid-twenties.

Inside the prayer wheels are scrolls of paper with Om Mani Padme Hum written on them. 

The bigger the prayer wheel, the more iterations of the mantra rest inside and are released with each rotation. 

I imagine that for Tibetans, having a physical object, such as a prayer wheel, made it easier to remember and recite their daily mantras and generate good karma. 

I always thought that if I bought a prayer wheel, I too could do the same once I returned home to the routines of life in the States.

And so when I happened across Himalayan Vision, it felt like the time was right to buy my prayer wheel. 

I can be a picky shopper. However, the quality of the one that caught my attention was high, and the price was surprisingly low, at around $40. 

I asked the owner about the low rates, and he indicated that he had to reduce them due to the economic downturn. He was also going to be closing down his second shop in Massachusetts.

Several weeks later, I'm happy to report that I spin my Tibetan prayer wheel at least once a day, releasing dozens, if not hundreds, of Om Mani Padme Hums in the process.

Go Backpacking's Top 10 Posts of 2009

4x4 in Cambodia
Dave on a 4x4 tour in Cambodia

As we approach the end of 2009, I wanted to share the top 10 most popular posts on Go Backpacking, based on page views.

Interestingly, most of these posts pre-date my actual travel around the world and instead detail the various stages of planning involved in such a venture.  I'm glad they continue to serve as a resource for future travelers.

Cost of a Trip Around the World - an overview of my expenses for traveling to 22 countries over 15 months.  Once I settled into Medellin, I stopped keeping track.

My Decision to Backpack Around the World - the "why" behind quitting my job to see the world.

Choosing a Malaria Medication -  getting shots was easy while figuring out a strategy for Malaria was not.

Budgeting for a Trip Around the World - from May 2007, this was my pre-trip approach to figuring out how much money I needed.

Packing List - the initial contents of my backpack before leaving home.

5 Techniques to Save Big Money - my best strategies for saving lots of money!

Tibetan Acupuncture and Massage - this post received a lot of search engine traffic because of the photo I included of a big spider.

Establishing Travel and Financial Goals - the title says it all.

Nepal-India Border Crossing - I flew Yeti Airlines to Nepal's eastern border and that was just the beginning of the adventurous trip to Darjeeling.

The Importance of Hooking Up Abroad - a guest post by Emily Callaghan on the cultural benefits of intimate relations abroad.

The Mexican Tradition of Nochebuena

Homemade tamales
Homemade tamales

Unlike America's Independence Day which passed by all but unnoticed while I was in Cuenca, Ecuador in July 0f 2008, or the Dieciocho celebration that I did not know existed until I spent a September in Santiago, Chile (I quickly learned that Chilean independence was exciting enough to deserve a month of parties), many religious holidays are recognized in major cities all over the world.

This year, however, I had no special expat plans to make for I spent Christmas in the USA.

Nevertheless, the first of my own family's traditions are rather out of the American ordinary. On Christmas Eve, my dad's family, or six of his nine brothers and sisters and their families including mine, get together to celebrate Nochebuena.

In Mexico, this is the last night of the posada. Although I myself have never experienced them, the Posadas take place on the nine days preceding Christmas and are processions of the reenactment of Mary and Joseph's search for shelter in Bethlehem. Each night, groups of the town's residents are led to a different house for the culmination of the posada, not surprisingly, a fiesta. On the last night, Christmas Eve or Nochebuena the focus is now on the family which means one last posada, a scrumptiously large meal, mass (or Misa de Gallo), and an exchange of presents.

My father has lived in the United States since he was 18 years old and yet bits and pieces of these traditions have never been lost. We usually meet around eight at night to have dinner together. Wine and spirits (usually tequila) flow amongst the adults, as appetizers of ceviche (a salad made of raw shrimp in lime juice combined with tomatoes, onions, spices, and chiles) and tostadas (hard tortillas) are followed by tamales, the once 'food-on-the-go' for the warriors of pre-Columbian Mesoamerica. My aunts spend all day making the tamales which are made from the corn-based masa dough, filled with pork, vegetables, and spinces and wrapped in a corn husk to be steamed until hot.

Pozole - a common Mexican comfort food
Pozole - a common Mexican comfort food

Then, for the main course, young and old enjoy the quintessential Mexican comfort food, pozole. This is a stew native to my father's Jalisco that is made up of a hearty pork broth, laced with chili and augmented with hominy, a derivative of corn. It is then garnished with a homemade hot sauce (beyond any Tabasco most Americans have ever enjoyed), cabbage, radishes, and more of the fresh-squeezed juice of a lime.

Dessert varies from flan (a caramel custard) to classic brownies or chocolate-chip cookies. And then we wait, and wait, and wait. My cousins and siblings pass the time watching holiday films and playing games while the adults sit at the table and chat. Finally, when the clock strikes twelve we exchange affectionate "Feliz Navidad's" and gifts.

At this point, the Mexican celebration ends and the festivities that follow: sleeping for a short time, waking up to more presents from Santa ;), going to Christmas mass, and spending the day with family and friends take place similarly to those of most of those Americans who celebrate Christmas, but each year I always appreciate my family's unique cultural twists more and more.

And I'm sure I'm not the only one. Which international traditions have joyously wiggled their way into your American celebrations?

Destination Asia: Pruning Your Itinerary

A rough first draft
Drafting a travel itinerary

A side effect of having a thirst for travel is that it will always be unquenchable.

You will never be able to see everything, experience everything; there will always be so much you miss. 

That is why your itinerary is so important and yet so difficult to set.

If you read my article on how to research for a trip you'll know that I go through a great number of resources and have a lot of travel content coming to me on a daily basis. 

As a result, my visit list for any given locale is longer than most from the outset. This is both good and bad. 

On one hand, I have a great start for my itinerary, yet when it comes time for cuts to be made it makes it that much harder to skip over destinations you've dreamt about for months, maybe even years. 

Such is the life of a budget backpacker.

Create a Map

The first step is always to add my destinations to Google Maps so you get a map similar to mine. 

There is one main advantage of this exercise; you can see very easily what a suitable route would be. 

Look for where to start, where to end, how to eliminate backtracking and find any destinations that aren't reachable from your other destinations.

There is something to be said for travelers without a strict itinerary, but you still need to have a general idea of how you are going to travel the region. 

You do not want to end up like a backpacker friend of mine whose route after 6 months in Europe looked similar to several Stars of David. 

He wasted a lot of time crisscrossing the continent several times.

You should try to choose a route that flows and doesn't require retracing your steps. If you decide on a round trip plane ticket, a circle of some sort is often ideal.

Use Paper

I always start by writing my newly created itinerary down on paper.

Using paper makes it much easier to brainstorm and adjust the first iteration of your plan. Above you can see what my first draft looked like.

Pretty? Not in the least, but it's functional and allowed me to plan freely.

Use a guidebook to look at the activities and sights for each destination, and make an educated guess on how many nights you will spend there. 

A good tip is to plan by the number of nights you will stay rather than days, as they can get confusing if you move around a lot or go on day trips.

For my Southeast Asia trip, I was trying to stuff a little too much into my time frame, though this was exaggerated as I have a full week of unbudgeted time built into my proposed 120-day schedule. 

This was one of the biggest problems with my trip to Europe, I was tightly budgeted and although it was an excellent itinerary, not too fast or too slow, it afforded me no flexibility, and I wasn't able to stay long in the German Alps as I wanted.

Ask for Feedback

Slimming down your route is full of hard choices but you can make it easier on yourself. 

You're not alone; if you're going there, then someone else has already been there.  Now is the time to bounce your itinerary off as many other travelers as possible. 

The BootsnAll forums, as well as other location-specific travel forums, are a great start; any feedback will help you grasp the situation.

One of my biggest problems was that I couldn't get a handle on how much time I should be spending in the major cities of the region, unlike Europe where a 4-5 day rule is fairly universal.  

I was lost so I turned to my fellow travelers on BootsnAll, and they responded in spades, with more detail then I would have expected.

Just like reading an essay out loud will help you find typos, explaining an itinerary in detail to a travel partner or friend will help you bring holes and unnecessary destinations to light. 

This is what I did when I bounced my proposed itinerary off my buddy Richard who will be joining me for some of the time I'm in South-East Asia.

Prioritize

If you're looking to make cuts, then focus on destinations that you don't immediately gush about.

If you're not excited at home, what are the chances that it'll be any better on the ground? 

This is exactly what I did with Railay Bay, a beautiful destination known as a rock climbing mecca. 

I and heights aren't always on speaking terms, so that was an easy decision.

Any place that only has one reason for you to go may need reconsideration; if it's not a major reason then it's probably not worth your time. 

Phuket got cut down to one night because of this.

The only real reason for going is to witness the spectacle of the sex tourism industry; the entire stop is basically an exercise in laughing at sex tourists. 

Even one night, I'm still considering just axing the whole island.

Relax

It is important to remember through the whole process that even if you must cut some destinations, you will return with nothing but good memories, and any disappointment will fade quickly when you remember what you did experience.

Though mostly set, my itinerary is still in flux, and will likely stay that way until I leave.

Once I'm on the ground it will change drastically: travel mishaps happen, my usually ironclad stomach may fail me, a civil war could escalate, or the proposed elections in Burma could throw the country into turmoil. 

The flexibility I have built into my plan should allow me to bounce back from setbacks, and with any luck, I'll finish my stint in Hanoi with time to visit another tiny Southeast Asian country.

Internet vs. Newspaper: Good Writing Is Good Writing

Dubrovnik, Croatia
To fully experience travel, you frequently have to trust in strangers. This barber seemed to be in a bad mood, however, so I decided not to discuss Balkan politics with him.

Jerry V. Haines is a travel writer from northern Virginia.

We met back in 2007 when I took his one-day travel writing workshop. 

I was curious to see how the landscape of travel writing is changing from his perspective, so I invited him to answer a few questions on the subject.

***

Go Backpacking: In which publication was your travel writing first published, and what was the story about?

Jerry Haines: The Washington Post, in the Wednesday Style section "Escapes" column in 1996.  

It was a piece, submitted "on spec," describing a quiet afternoon in St. Georges, Granada.  

But the narrative began with our being directed to the wrong church that morning, leading to one of those glorious people-to-people experiences that I've tried to feature in subsequent writings, whenever we've been fortunate to have such happy accidents.

GB: Since then, where has your work appeared?

JH: I have been blessed to have had wonderful relationships with the editorial staffs of several newspaper travel sections: The Washington Post, The Los Angeles Times, The Newark Star-Ledger, The Dallas Morning News, and The St. Petersburg Times, among others.  

They ran my stuff, paid me on time and didn't mess (too much) with my copy.  

I found some good friends there and remain in touch with many of them, even though they're no longer in a position to buy anything from me.

I also ran a few things in Catholic Digest. I'm just now dipping my toe into internet waters and have done some things for World Hum, Intelligent Travel and Travel Beat.

I haven't started my own blog, but occasionally I think about it.  

(On this subject, I may be slow on the pickup, but not as bad as my edition of MS Word, which just flagged "blog" as a misspelling.)

GB: In the last 5 years, how has travel writing in traditional media changed?

JH: Well, one obvious answer is that newspaper travel sections "assuming they even exist anymore" are not buying much freelance.  

Editors have taken buyouts as their sections shrank or got folded into other sections of the paper.

Those that remain often use syndicated material or pieces written by full-time staff of other sections of their papers.

Many still do buy an occasional article but restrict their purchases to stories about travel within their respective reading areas "trips on a tankful," etc.

And the internet hasn't taken up the slack.  But I'm optimistic that eventually, it will.

GB: How does writing for newspapers and magazines differ from writing for online publications and blogs?

JH: In one sense, good writing is good writing. But the internet reader has to be courted much more aggressively than his print counterpart.  

You have to show your goodies early, or he'll quickly click away.  

(But wasn't that also the case before?  If you were pitching to a newspaper editor, you had to make your "sale" in the lede.)

You have to make some concessions to the medium.

Stories, paragraphs, and sentences are shorter because a screen just isn't as readable as a paper page.  

And you have to make concessions to our ever-shortening attention spans, a phenomenon that predates the internet.  

Personally, I blame television and vid Oh, look! A squirrel!

In the new world, you also have less editorial backup.  You can't just assume somebody will catch your misspellings and factual errors and fix them for you.  

(But really, now. You never should have made such assumptions in the old world, either.)

The good part is that there are fewer people looking over your shoulder, second-guessing your word choices and imposing their own style.

We're also all learning that some of the most important readers are not human, they're search engines.  

And, if we want hits, we have to learn to think like them, I guess, filling our NAKED paragraphs NAKED with NAKED words NAKED they're likely to NAKED seek. TOTALLY NUDE!

One other thought:  I love to write travel essays, but, except for the Washington Post, very few newspaper travel editors published essays, dismissing the whole genre as self-indulgent and ego-driven.  

But what could be a better medium for essays than the internet, the epitome of self-indulgence?

The future of the printed word, whether in newspapers, magazines or books, seems in question these days.

Ebooks are growing in popularity, as are the specific devices on which to read them such as Amazon's Kindle.

How does this trend benefit writers, and are there any hidden downsides?

I am absolutely the worst person to comment on that, as I love the traditional, ink on paper book.  

As my wife will confirm, I hardly ever get rid of books, even ones I hated. They sit on my shelf (actually, "shelves," dozens of them) as their own monuments to the labor, and celebrations of the thrills, of reading them.  

I admire the inventiveness that produced the Kindle, and I suspect it will benefit all writers by making writing more accessible to more people, but I probably will never own one.  

Unless someone wants give me one. Actually, I'd rather have a sweater. (I'm an XL.)

GB: What is your #1 piece of advice for readers interested in pursuing freelance travel writing opportunities, whether in print or online?

JH: Be persistent. I was rejected by 30 different newspapers before I thought of trying the Post (it was sort of a personal Hail Mary play, based only on the fact that it was the paper I knew best).

Don't be discouraged by rejection; there are lots of reasons why someone might not choose to publish your writing, and most of them have nothing to do with the quality of your work or your value as a human being.

There's no reason to get derailed by it, particularly now that we no longer have to shlep printed manuscripts to the post office, accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope.  

(How I hated those things. Newspapers used them only for rejections; if they liked your article they'd call you. The SASE always meant bad news.)

Today, if you get rejected, just send out another email.

GB: And finally, if you could wake up anywhere in the world tomorrow morning, where would it be?

JH: I'm often asked that (or variations on it) and I usually respond with wherever I've been most recently (which currently is Charleston, SC).  But ultimately, it has to be Italy.  

I particularly like the smaller, lesser-known cities like Bologna, Bassano del Grappa, Cagliari, Sorrento, Padua.  (Shall I go on?)

__

Photo Credit:  Janice Haines

Encounter With The Magnificent Mountain Gorilla - Berengei Berengei

Charles, a silverback
Charles, a silverback

This is a guest post by Rebecca Tom. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

Trekking to see the mountain gorillas of Rwanda is one of the most magical things you can do. It is an amazing wildlife encounter with Earth's largest living primates.

The German explorer Oscar von Beringe was the first non-African to encounter them in 1902. There are now estimated to be less than 750 in the world (all living in eastern central Africa).

Wars, poaching, and human encroachment on their habitat have all played a part in drastically reducing their numbers. They are critically endangered and so it is even more special to be able to see them up close in the wild.

I was lucky enough to do this and I will never forget it.

There are seven habituated gorilla groups in Rwanda that tourists are allowed to visit. There are other habituated groups too but these are off limits. A maximum of eight permits are issued per gorilla group per day.

Before encountering the animals there's a few things to bear in mind. There is a code of conduct for visiting the gorillas: the encounter will be no more than one hour from first sighting (to reduce the risk of them catching human diseases), the minimum distance you can get from them is 7m, no-one can eat near them or go to the loo near them, no flash photography and absolutely no litter should be left there. Also, permits are required which cost $500 and need to be bought in advance.

Those unfortunate enough to develop a cold or infectious disease before the encounter will not be allowed to see the gorillas.

My encounter started with arrival at the meeting point at 7am. Everyone gets put into small groups and a briefing takes place. The park wardens choose which people visit which gorilla family. We were off to meet the Umabano (meaning neighbourliness), a group of nine individuals led by one silverback, Charles.

Luckily I'd been told to bring gardening gloves and tough trousers as the forest is likely to spike and sting you. Good walking shoes are necessary as the terrain is tough and the paths are narrow. Waterproofs are a good idea too as it is a rainforest (although I didn't need them). A bottle of water is essential, as is a hearty breakfast to make up for all the energy that will be expended with the climb.

Ruhengeri is the nearest village to the start of the trail and is where the jeeps from the base take us, the roads are very bumpy and the guides joke that it is an "˜African massage'.

Parc des Volcans, Rwanda
Parc des Volcans, Rwanda

The guides cut walking sticks to help us with our climb and we enter the primary Rwandan Parc des Volcans rainforest.

Our guides are in frequent walkie-talkie contact with the trackers who are up ahead searching for the gorillas. The trackers search for dung and trampled vegetation that mark a gorilla trail.  The guides make frequent stops for us to rest and they use their machetes to slash some of the undergrowth from the tangled jungle at the edge of the path.

After about an hour and a half of trekking, we were told to leave all food and our sticks behind for the final push to the gorilla group. The sticks needed to be left behind because the gorillas apparently may associate them with poachers and become alarmed.

A bit more walking for us and then they were there in front of us, fellow primates. They were difficult to spot at first but the movement in the trees gave the game away. An awesome sight, my first wild gorilla in the tree only a few metres away.

Mountain Gorilla
Mountain Gorilla

And then there were more - little ones swinging playfully on branches and juveniles crashing about in the undergrowth. The female seemed more intent on sleeping than anything else but a baby clambered about near her, ensuring she didn't manage a decent amount of sleep!

We were by now venturing off the paths and teetering precariously on the hillside. It was difficult to see where there was hard surface under foot so a few falls were inevitable.

We tried keeping our distance but a juvenile came along a path and there was nowhere for me to move to. It passed just inches away, as if I wasn't even there. An amazing experience!

Charles the silverback was a sight to behold. He was massive and majestic and no threat at all if you were respectful.

The animals carried out their daily life in front of us, eating, sleeping and playing.

The trackers constantly communicated with the gorillas in low grunts. The gorillas are used to the trackers as they are followed daily.

All too soon the hour was up and we had to go. We were escorted out by one of the juvenile male gorillas who apparently sometimes likes to do this.

Sadly it was time to head back, tired but exhilarated but every penny and every step was worth it.

________

By Rebecca Tom.  If you liked this post you may also be interested, like me, in cultural walking tours or walking and wildlife in Namibia.

Photo Credit:  All photos courtesy of Rebecca Tom.

Recap: The 2nd DC Travel Tweetup

The spartan Midtown LOFT in Washington, DC
The spartan Midtown LOFT in Washington, DC

December 16, 2009

Wrapped in warm yak wool, and sporting my red, white, and grey Darjeeling knit cap, I braved the cold East Coast winds of winter to make a reverse, rush-hour commute from northern Virginia into the heart of Washington, DC. 

There could be only one reason to risk chapped lips and awkward stares on the long metro ride into the city.

The 2nd DC Travel Tweetup, my friends!

I arrived a few minutes early at the venue, Midtown LOFT, which required scaling a few flights of stairs, and was the choice of my effervescent co-host, Stephanie from Twenty-Something Travel. 

It looked as though we were going to have the bar to ourselves - it was practically empty.

I settled into a corner near the front windows overlooking 18th Street and Connecticut.

I monitored Twitter, and donned one of the custom Twitter name tags so graciously provided by Teresa and Melanie at Sisarina (@sisarina).

Steven from Travelojos (@travelojos) was the first to arrive. 

I first became aware of his blog about travel in Latin America after he put up a few posts about Colombia. 

I believe Stephanie (@20stravel) rolled in next. She swore the bar is hoppin' on a Friday night. 

All I know is on that Wednesday night, the bartender looked bored enough to jump out the 3rd story window.

It was great to meet Marilyn (@Marilyn_Res), the Chief Researcher for National Geographic Traveler and Janelle (@Janelle_IT_Blog), the Special Projects Editor at National Geographic Traveler, and Editor of the Intelligent Travel blog.

I also got to talk with Dan (@8hourlayover) from The Eight Hour Layover who, like me, had attended the Art of Non-Conformity meetup a few months ago (small world). 

Unlike me, he'd been keeping up with Chris for years!

Christine (@ichristine), a cupcake aficionado and lover of martinis, took a break from work to join us, and we met the one and only Curls McGhee (@travelwithcurls) of the upstart Travel With Curls blog.

And lastly, William (@bushwil) joined us. He doesn't have a blog, to my knowledge, but he did have a great story about attending a wedding in Nigeria. He hopes to travel more in the future.

We all do.

Stephanie and I would like to thank everyone who made it out, and we look forward to hosting the next DC Travel Tweetup in January 2010.

The Heavenly La Maison du Chocolat

Divine Creations at La Maison du Chocolat
Divine Creations at La Maison du Chocolat

My chocolate habit spiraled out of control on my trip around the world.  Once I landed in New Zealand and saw convenience store racks loaded with giant bricks of Cadbury chocolate, it was over.  I traveled around the country with a pound of the stuff constantly in my pack, telling myself it's an important supply of energy for all the hiking and physical activity I was doing (yea right).

In Sydney, my Couchsurfing host took me to the Lindt chocolate cafe where we ordered the most decadent hot chocolate known to mankind, and on top of that, picked out a few extra truffles for good measure.

In the Laotian capital, I had a 3-course meal which ended with chocolate oozing out of a warm cake.

And taking quick jaunts through Belgium and Switzerland last winter was no accident either.  I'd heard the best chocolates came from those two countries, and I was determined to put such assertions to the test.  I sampled chocolates from several shops in each country.  They were certainly delicious, but...

Nothing in my 33 years on this planet we call Earth can compare to the 5 delicate, decadent chocolates I hand-picked from the Parisian boutique known as La Maison du Chocolat at Rockefeller Center in New York City.

At $1.95 apiece, these small delights were not cheap, but they were beyond worth it.  I wish I had written down the flavors I purchased so I could riddle them off for you, gushing about how amazing each of them was.  While they managed to last an hour or two of sightseeing, once I returned to my brother's apartment downtown, I opened the unassuming plastic bag and ate the first one.

Any food item which has the power to send chills up your spine, and make the hair on your arms stand on end, deserves extra attention.  I proceeded to enjoy the remaining 4 chocolates in timed intervals.  30 minutes later, they were gone.

And that's an achievement for this chocoholic.

______________

La Maison du Chocolat - 30 Rockefeller Center, New York City.  Plus, they offer mailorder!

Friday Flashback - The Best Beach on Koh Phangan

Thai longboat on Thong Nai Pan Noi
Thai longboat on Thong Nai Pan Noi

After a week of serious partying on Haad Rin, including a Full Moon Party, I headed to a small, quiet beach on the northeastern edge of Koh Phangan. 

Thong Nai Pan Noi was a tropical paradise defined.

The beach was small, and quiet at night, which made it perfect for late swims, with or without clothes. 

There were budget bungalows and space for luxury ones being constructed (boo!). 

A few restaurants offered dining and drinks on the beach, and the vibe was super casual.

In the "town" which was more a collection of small stores, restaurants, bars, and massage shops, life seemed to move at a snail's pace. 

It was the perfect base camp to enjoy beach life and recovery from the party lifestyle on the island's southern end.

For more stories and photos, check out these posts:

  • Thong Nai Pan Noi Beach
  • The Bungalow Bounce
  • Dare #13 - Completed - Muay Thai Boxing
  • Half Moon Party
  • Crunch! Another One Bites the Dust

Next week, we're heading across Thailand for a Visa run, and then on to more tropical islands.

Last Minute Giving: Kiva Gift Certificates

Earlier this week, I joined Kiva, a non-profit organization which facilitates micro-lending around the world.

Starting at $25, Kiva gift certificates allow the recipient to make their own loans to entrepreneurs around the world and help alleviate poverty. Your recipient chooses the loans, receives repayments, and can choose to lend again and again! It is a one-of-a-kind gift that keeps on giving.

In January 2010, I will begin to share my first-hand experiences.  Until then, if you forgot to get a gift for someone, make a $25 investment on their behalf by sending a Kiva gift certificate.  You have the option of either printing it out, or sending it immediately as an e-mail.  It's the perfect solution for those last minute gifts.

They take just seconds to create, but the experience lasts a lifetime!
__________
PS - if you are already a member of Kiva, please join Go Backpacking's lending team!

ESL Teaching: Getting Personal

Quiet street in Prague

I never took a business class in college, and I've never held a traditional office position.  However, I'm relatively sure that one of the first lessons of either experience would have been: keep your personal life separate from your work life.

Some people call it work/life balance.  Some simply warn against co-worker happy hours.  Some point their finger at office romances.  During my ESL days, I had to wonder: did any of this actually apply?

There seemed to be two approaches among the English-teaching crowd, and I flip-flopped on which method was ideal.  While teaching ESL is not in the running for the most professional position most of us will ever hold, it is still a job.  And though a couple frigid January days may have propelled me to dress rather unprofessionally in jeans and furry boots, I did try to approach most lessons with the mindset of the workplace.

My first roommate abroad shared that philosophy.  More of a private person, she could quite easily recount details of her students' lives, from the names of third cousins to preferences amongst the varieties of Czech beers.  But the relationship was not reciprocal.  She might have spent Saturday evenings gallivanting until the hour that the night tram reopened, or she might have been tucked into bed an hour after dinner.  That remained a mystery, because her teaching style probed her students to do the talking, while she took the listener's chair.

My second apartment-mate, however, was quite the opposite.  More of the cliche post-collegiate instructor, she arrived with a single suitcase and an extroverted nature.  When it came to swapping stories with her students, she spoke freely, without a single hold barred.  On the mornings she arrived at her lessons squinting at the daylight, her students knew the reason.

So the question remained: which method was best?  I suppose the argument can go both ways.  If you're teaching adults, then no superior checks up on you, and very often, you teach away from your school's actual premises.  My students trusted in these facts, as they unabashedly revealed to me everything from financial woes to bedroom secrets.  I could have easily done the same.

Then again, I had to ask myself whether I strived to cultivate a friendship or a student-teacher relationship.  For me, the answer was the latter, and in the end, I'm glad to have had the practice of maintaining at least a bit of professionalism.

Still, my more candid colleagues left with something I did not: some students became their closest friends.  Gossiping for an hour under the guise of teaching a lesson does sound more appealing than some of the one-on-one courses I taught.  As the people we meet so often influence our experience of the places we go, this is certainly food for thought.

Are You Calling Me Fat?

The finished product
Ramesh, Clinton, and I painting as school children look on

This is a guest post by Janelle K. Eagle. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

The answer is yes. The school Principal was speaking about us, and he had called me fat.

I came across "Mr. Rude Principal man" while I was teaching English and Theater to a group of underprivileged girls in Bhaktapur, Nepal.

One of my fellow travelers, Clinton Bopp, was painting at Shree Sharada School nearby as part of The Unatti Foundation's "Child to Child" project.

This innovative work connects children in California with children in this small village and others around the world.

At the time of the name-calling incident, Clinton, a talented painter living in Los Angeles, was transforming the front of the four-room school from an old wall full of political graffiti into one of the most beautiful buildings in the village.

I was filming him for my forthcoming documentary and also assisting with painting some of the smaller details on his massive mural.

Ramesh, the man who runs the orphanage where we were staying and who is the Nepalese leader of the Unatti Foundation was overseeing the painting project as he was a graduate of this small school some 25 years earlier.

Ramesh's family has lived in Bhaktapur for seven generations, so he knows his way around and is well-connected.

Clinton and I took advantage of Ramesh's established relationships in the area and knew it was no big deal when we ran out of a particular pink paint color that day.

Ramesh offered to visit with a local paint store owner who would cut us a deal and asked that my friend Patty and I accompany him on his motorcycle so that we could carry the paint cans back while he maneuvered the bike down Bhaktapur's small alleyways.

Ramesh's motorcycle carried himself, Patty, and I the very short distance to the paint store.

When Patty and I returned to the school site with fresh paint, the school Principal came outside to greet us and struck up a conversation with Ramesh.

Suddenly they burst into laughter. We are so fat; this man could not believe the bike had managed to carry all three of us. He was very impressed.

I am very impressed I didn't punch him in the face once Ramesh translated why they were laughing so hard.

Children from the Shree Sharada School
Children from the Shree Sharada School

This seemingly unbearable mental abuse is, of course, a great cause for reflection.

In Nepal, Patty and I are considered fat. Nepali people, especially in the small village of Bhaktapur, are often malnourished.

Children regularly appear at least two years younger in size than their actual age, simply because they don't have the resources to grow healthy bodies.

Considering the fact that the school we are painting is a public school for the most impoverished children in the village, it should not offend us that comparatively speaking, we are HUGE.

What's hilarious about the timing of this Principal's comment is that Patty and I lost a lot of weight while we were in Nepal.

We had grown accustomed to obsessing over our thighs and flabby arms and enjoyed being out of America where indulgence is stuffed in our face just as often as images of too-thin models.

But in Nepal, without a car to sit in, unnecessarily large meals served to us at restaurants or unhealthy food, in general, we both slimmed down at a rapid pace. We dubbed this change, "The Nepal Diet."

After being called "fat," the weight loss suddenly seemed like less of an accomplishment. To the people of Bhaktapur, being fat meant we looked healthy.

Every day that we "fat girls" showed up with Clinton to the disheveled school to paint, the skinny children of Bhaktapur gawked at us, practiced their English, and sought positive reinforcement.

It was easy to swallow our proverbial Western Thinness Pride when we looked at these children in the face every day.

This fat chick was and still is comfortable with the name-calling. Instead of feeling like I should skip a meal, I focused on painting a school for skinny kids who deserve it.

________

Janelle is a documentary filmmaker with an insatiable desire to get out there, see it, and share it. A strong believer that change happens over good home-cooked meals, Janelle has dined with locals all around the world. She hopes she's helped create change along the journey. She shares her writing, photography, and videos on www.journeywithjanelle.com.

To the people of Bhaktapur, being fat meant we looked healthy.

It's Chile in Manhattan

I'm sure all of the city folk appreciated the pun. The entire Northeast got hit pretty hard last night by a snowstorm.

Anyway, the good news is that despite the chill, locals and visitors alike can enjoy the warmth of an authentic Chilean meal at Pomaire.

It is so nice to be able to say the above statement and be sure of it.

I spent half a semester in the South American country during the year studying abroad, eating and documenting my way through 3 meals on each day of the five months that I was there.

When my parents visited, my father, a native to Mexico, was not so impressed with Chilean cuisine; it is not very spicy, not very complicated, and nothing like Mexican or even Peruvian food of which the most people may be familiar with.

Yet traditional Chilean food, although simple, has a medley of flavors, influenced by the vast diversity of plant foods and products that are naturally available.

And this is all thanks to its varying landscape and the cultures of the native Chileans, most prominently, the Mapuches.

Quite impressively, Pomaire, a small restaurant in the Theatre District of New York City seems to have chosen the most delicious of plates served across the nearly 3,000-mile country from north to south.

And with the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Andes Mountains to the east, each one will be unlike anything you've ever had before.

When I visited last year, my boyfriend and I chose a delightful bottle of wine from the Concha y Toro vineyards as our poison, but I'd recommend their Pisco Sours as well.

A Pisco Sour is a mixed drink made of pisco (a brandy made from Muscat grapes grown in designated areas across the country), lemon juice, sugar, and the occasional egg white.

I can assure you it's deliciously refreshing, and if you happen to get your hands on a bottle of Capel or another brand of Chilean pisco, I'd highly recommend making it for yourself.

Soon after we were served a basket of pan amasado (a fresh-baked Chilean bread) and pebre (a Chilean condiment, somewhat similar to salsa, but as you will see in this recipe, unique as well).

For our appetizers, we ordered a spectacular Empanada de Pino (baked in a wood-burning oven and classically filled with seasoned minced (not ground) meat, onions, a single, hard-boiled egg, olives, and raisins) and Camerones a Pil-Pil (spicy shrimp).

The latter was my personal favorite because it was made with the Mapuche spice of Merquen which has the most wonderful smoky yet ubiquitous flavor.

At the attentive waiter's suggestion (Pomaire has great service), I had the Chilean Humita (a bundle of fresh, sweet corn ground and cooked in the husk) as my entree while my boyfriend enjoyed the Chilean Corvino Sea Bass with roasted vegetables and rice.

We had an amazing experience (and I caught it all on camera if you'd like to see more pictures.)

The entire atmosphere of this small, dark, yet undeniably cozy restaurant is most definitely inviting to say the last, and each piece of decor, beautiful.

Wall decorations and table embellishments were hand-chosen by the owner, Denic, to reflect his own childhood home in Chile.

I invite you to enjoy the culinary comforts of his home, and my once-adopted one.

___________

Pomaire - 371 West 46th Street, New York City

The Christmas Tree at Rockefeller Center (is small)

Holiday fountain display
Holiday fountain display

I met Jen from Approach Guides outside her office building in midtown Manhattan, a few blocks south of Grand Central Station. 

We walked to a nearby cafe she knew, where we lucked out and managed to acquire seating.

I hadn't done my homework. I'd seen Jen's tweets, however, I'd only given the website a cursory overview. On the other hand, I didn't feel too guilty. 

I'm finding it's much more fun to learn about a person's blog or project while you're sitting in front of them, and can feel their excitement. 

In addition, to getting the background on how Approach Guides came to be, we talked about travel, social media, and the new project I've been working on (stay tuned in 2010!).

Jen - thanks again for the coffee and cookie!

As we parted, she also offered me a complimentary guide from their collection, which I look forward to reading and writing about in the near future.

Radio City Music Hall
Radio City Music Hall

On my own again, I made it my mission to check out the Christmas tree at Rockefeller Center. 

I took the scenic route, walking through Grand Central Station and Time Square, where I came across Sam Ash, the popular music store chain.

Back when I use to play the guitar in my teens, I'd look through their catalogs and dream of getting a Gibson Les Paul (like Slash) or a sunburst Fender Strat (like Stevie Ray Vaughn). 

To appease my inner child, I walked into the store which occupied the former space of another famous store, Manny's (featured in the Guns 'n Roses video for "Paradise City") and browsed the massive collection of guitars they have on the first floor.

After getting my fill of beautiful, expensive electric guitars, I hit the streets again, walking past Radio City Music Hall. 

When I was an even younger kid, and my family still lived in the suburbs of the New York City, we'd go to Radio City to see the Rockettes perform around this same time.

The Christmas Tree at Rockefeller Center
The Christmas Tree at Rockefeller Center

And with a little help from Google Maps on my BlackBerry Curve, I reached 30 Rock. 

My first view of the tree and ice skating rink resulted in a thought along the lines of "damn, that's way smaller than I thought." 

I always knew the camera angles played a big part in making the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree look big, but my imagination over the last 33 years had turned the tree into one of Redwood-sized proportions.

The reality didn't match up to my imagination, which seems silly. 

After all, it was a lovely tree, and I thought it was cute that so many people were ice skating around, as you always see on television. 

Plus, there were hordes of tourists taking photos and Salvation Army volunteers ringing bells to add to the atmosphere.

Top of the Rock, looking north toward Central Park
Top of the Rock, looking north toward Central Park

As I walked away from the Christmas tree, I came across the entrance to buy tickets for access to the roof of Rockefeller Center, aptly referred to as "top of the rock." 

Again, as a kid, I'd been to the top of the Empire State Building, and even the World Trade Center, however 30 Rock would be a new one.

I ducked inside, and coughed up the New York City price of $21 to ride a faster-than-normal elevator. 

As you ride up, there are blue lights that make it feel like you're Luke Skywalker about to blow up the Death Star. 

My ears popped several times during the fast ascent (and later descent).

Once you arrive on the top, you want to continue to take another escalator or two to wind your way all the way up, past the lower level with glass barriers, to reach unobstructed views of the city. 

The sun was starting to set, and I was only equipped with my BlackBerry for photos, so I did my best to capture the view of Central Park.

Pommes Frites - Belgian Fries in NYC

Pommes Frites - Belgian Fries

My first visit to Pommes Frites dates back almost 10 years.  During a typical long weekend in the city, a friend took me there to experience the authentic Belgian fries, which are served in a paper cone along with your choice of sauces from a long and unhealthy (but oh so tasty) list.

The frite shoppe itself is tiny, with two back-to-back booths and a few stools.  The reputation, on the other hand, is far larger.  As you can see in the photo above, as tourists pose for a photo, it has become a popular destination for foodies the world over.

On my most recent visit to New York City, I made it a point to return, seeing as how it is only a short walk from my brother's East Village apartment.  Jodi, the Legal Nomad, had brought to my attention the fact that this Belgian frite shop also offered a popular Canadian dish called poutine.

Take fries, slather them in chicken gravy, throw in some chunks of Canadian cured cheddar cheese, and voila - POUTINE!

Poutine: fries, gravy, and cheese curd

My curiosity was piqued, so on a cold Winter's morning, I walked over to Pommes Frites and ordered a heaping, hot cup of poutine before the clock had even struck noon.  Fries with gravy I'd eaten before, but the cheese curd sounded like an odd addition to the mix, at least for this American.

The whole combination turned out to be quite tasty, and very filling.  It was my lunch that day, and I didn't even finish the small serving I ordered.  It's the perfect comfort food, and at only $5, a great (artery-clogging) alternative to the typical NYC hot dogs and pizza.

_____________

Pommes Frites - 123 2nd Avenue, New York City

Travel Blogging & Coffee @ Mudspot

Entrance at Mudspot
Entrance at Mudspot

Mudspot, the cafe tied to New York City's popular orange Mudtruck, was a few blocks from my brother's apartment in the East Village.  While I was waiting near the entrance for Amy to arrive, I watched an endless stream of people duck in from the cold to grab their pre-work cup of coffee.  I forget the exact music that was playing, though I recall how it set off signals in my mind that this was my kind of cafe.

When Amy arrived, we took a table between the counter near the entrance, and the semi-outdoor garden area.  I ordered a chai tea, which arrived in a giant mug.  It was a far cry from the jello shot sized dixie cups I came to know and appreciate on the Indian trains.  Over an hour later, I still couldn't finish it!

Chai tea, super-sized
Chai tea, super-sized

Amy had found me through Twitter, and suggested we get together to talk about travel blogging.  Luckily for her, it's my favorite subject!  She and her husband are leaving on a year long trip around the world in early 2010, and she was trying to figure out how much time to spend creating and maintaining a travel blog.  She had a lot of other priorities competing for her attention, so I did my best to share my experience.  I'll be curious to see what she decides to do.

Running a successful travel blog isn't easy.  It requires sacrificing some of your travel time to write, post photos, upload videos, and nowadays, stay connected via social media.  On the other hand, there are wonderful rewards you can experience by sharing your stories so publicly.  Inspiring others to travel, keeping them motivated to save while they're back at home working, engaging with your readers, and possibly earning a few bucks from advertising are all within reach for most people.

As in Amy's case, it's a matter of priorities, however travelers shouldn't underestimate how keeping a blog can quickly become a priority in and of itself.

__________

Mudspot - 307 East 9th Street, New York City

Friday Flashback - Partying on Koh Phangan

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yIAtdX_61k

I arrived on Koh Phangan's infamous full moon party beach a week early to secure a bungalow.  Mission accomplished, however nobody warned me that every night on the beach is party night. And by party night, I mean massive bar sound systems booming psychedelic trance until the sun comes up each morning.

My party skills were tested like never before, and I met the challenge head-on!

Island Hop - Koh Samui to Koh Phangan

Fun With Fire On Haad Rin

Beach Party 2 - Electric Boogaloo

Three's Company

Surprise: A Quiet Night

The Night Before Full Moon Mayhem

Thailand's Full Moon Party - July 2008

The Aftermath

How to Plan Trips with a Big Dog

Don't Fail Like This Dog at Planning

"Andy, let's take a trip!"

This phrase comes out of my mouth at least 3 times a week.

Andy is a pro by now and takes it in stride.

Most of the time I think he is humoring me because we never get further than choosing a place to go before he distracts me with another task at hand.

Lately, though, we both have been seriously looking into a long weekend trip. The one catch is we want to take our 110lb dog.

Where should we go?

Perhaps the most exciting question any traveler can ask.

The possibilities are endless and the adventures, numerous.

Although, when traveling with a dog the problems tend be endless and the restrictions, numerous. So, what does one do in this situation?

Plan, plan, plan!

Personally, I think the word "plan" is a dirty word. I'd much rather fly by the seat of my pants if you will, but the thought of leaving our Tucker behind is all the encouragement I need to get my butt in gear and plan out a trip.

Andy and I started out by surfing the web for the United States' most dog-friendly cities. Unbeknown to us, there are many websites dedicated to traveling dog lovers.

After sorting through the websites, we found the closest "Dog Friendly" city to Des Moines was Chicago.

A trip to Chicago could easily be accomplished in a 4-day weekend. No flights needed here! Just Andy, Tucker, Myself, and the open road. Being able to drive to our destination is a must with Tucker.

I'm an over-protective mother and do not like the idea of loading him onto a plane.

Tucker Playing on a Playground
Tucker playing on a playground

So, we found a place to go. Now we need a hotel and things the 3 of us can do together!

Lucky for us, we have relatives who live in Chicago and are more than happy to accept us, and Tucker, free of charge.

For those of you who are not as lucky, I recommend looking at some of these sites which list pet-friendly hotels:

  • Bring Fido
  • Petravel

Do not be surprised if there are fees involved in bringing your pet to stay with you.

I found it to be frustrating that most hotels would not accept a dog as big as Tucker, but I know with a bit of persistence, and phone calls, I would be able to find a hotel willing to take him.

That is if my relatives were unable to have us!

Finally, what the heck can we do with a dog in Chicago? Plenty!

We were pleasantly surprised at the variety of businesses and activities that catered to dogs and their humans, most of which are recommended for the Spring, Summer, and early Fall.

Let's be honest, no one wants to wander around the " Windy City"? in the dead of winter.

I recommend Dog Friendly to see what cities offer for you and your dog. We found out there is a company in Chicago that allows you and your dog to take a horse-drawn carriage ride around the city.

There are so many opportunities to travel around the United States with your pets!

Andy and I would love to hear of other people's experiences while traveling across the U.S. with their dogs!

We would also like to know if anyone has ever successfully traveled abroad with their animals? How did you do it? What steps did you take?

Side note: we recently found out that Tucker has to have shoulder surgery due to his fast pace in growing. Sadly, we are sidelined when it comes time to take trips with him for the next few months. Keep him in your thoughts for a safe surgery and a speedy recovery!

________

Photo Credit: Fail dog

Italian Night: Keste Pizza & Grom Gelato

Pizza making in Ketses kitchen
Pizza making in Ketse's kitchen

I first met Robbin, the Italiophile behind Vineyard Adventures, in Washington, DC.  I managed to steer her toward a sushi restaurant I hadn't been to in a few years.  This time, I was on her turf in New York City, which meant we were destined for Italian.

She had invited me to join her, another New Yorker, and a German couchsurfer who was only in town for the night.

We convened outside Keste Pizzeria & Vino on a cold Sunday night.  The narrow Italian pizza place was packed, and we were relegated to seeking warmth in the little vestibule between the sidewalk and the restaurant's dining room.  We must've waited there patiently for a good 20-30 minutes before a table became available.

And it happened that our table was the one that sat flush against the edge of the little kitchen.  It wasn't the most comfortable seating option, having one's back against the wall, literally, however it did allow me to capture a great photo of the pizza making process going on behind us.  Robbin tested out her new Kodak HD flipcam by shooting a short  video.  I was in the right company.

Prosciutto Cotto
Prosciutto Cotto

I went with the Prosciutto Cotto, made up of tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, imported cooked ham, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.  Simple and delicious.  I thought the crust was perfect, and despite my intention to take half the pizza home, I managed to devour it all in one seating, save a few bits of crust which were sacrificed in order to leave room for dessert.

Robbin ordered a sparkling red wine for us, which was new to me, though I enjoyed it.  I'm so use to strong cabernets and merlots, that a lighter red made for a nice change.

Grom Gelato - ½ tiramasu, ½ dark chocolate
Grom Gelato - ½ tiramisu, ½ dark chocolate

Robbin then brought up gelato as a desert option, and memories of 3-scoop cones in Italy flashed through my mind.  More recently, I'd enjoyed gelato in Australian beach spots like Byron Bay and Surfer's Paradise, but that was almost 2 years ago.  Hard to believe.

We walked a few paces down Bleecker, and entered Grom Gelato, which was situated across the street from Murray's Cheese (which I will have to check out during a future visit).  After a few quick tastings, I ordered a cup of ½ tiramisu and ½ dark chocolate.  Rich, decadent, and highly unhealthy, gelato is always a good decision!

Just because you're backpacking and/or couchsurfing, doesn't mean you can't enjoy great food.  Every trip I take to NYC is proof-positive of that.

________

Keste Pizzeria & Vino - 271 Bleecker Street, New York City

Grom Gelato - 233 Bleecker Street, New York City

ESL Teaching: How Do You Say "Jewish" in Your Language?

Prague at Christmas
Church - Prague, Czech Republic

During the holiday season, my memory often returns to one specific class I taught in December of my ESL year.  The students were five lovely women in their thirties, and they spoke excellent English.  Their advanced level had resulted in many lengthy conversations, both lighthearted and intelligent, and they were one of the few courses that I truly enjoyed every single time I taught it.

On this occasion, my students inquired if I would be traveling back to the States for Christmas.  I responded with a yes, and then continued, " But, I don't actually celebrate Christmas."?

Then there was silence.

To ease the awkwardly pregnant pause, I added, " because I'm Jewish."?

More silence.  Five blank stares.

I don't mean to stereotype or generalize.  But I come from New York, where half of every subway car is Jewish.  These particular students, on the other hand, informed me they had never before met a Jewish person in their lives.

Though it was an unnecessary feeling, I sometimes felt isolated as a Jew in Europe, surrounded by Christmas markets and colleagues to whom it never occurred I might not celebrate their same holiday.  It was neither of our faults; it was simply a fact.

But as a teacher, this situation was an opportunity.  I had the chance to bring some added flavor to a late December lesson.  Many teachers I knew used the season as an excuse to have their students read excerpts from A Christmas Carol, watch A Christmas Story, or teach the vocabulary in " Santa Claus is Coming to Town."?

Instead, I held a discussion about tradition.  My students put forth their guesses on what my customs might be, and I shared with them my ancestral roots from Eastern Europe to the Bronx.  I learned they'd all be eating carp on Christmas Day; they learned I'd be at a Chinese restaurant.  They shared the costumes they wore as children on the eve of Saint Mikulas; I described the game my family played to search for our hidden Chanukkah presents.  It was a lesson in English listening and speaking, but it was also a lesson in international understanding.

Of course, a Jew in Europe is just one example.  Perhaps you're Catholic, but you find yourself in Eastern Asia, working on the 25th.  Perhaps the only holidays you celebrate in December are the post-Christmas sales, and your station abroad has you feeling nostalgic for the savings.   For every one of us, regardless of background, these few weeks have some form of memory, ritual, or association.

Just as chats about Thanksgiving can build student-teacher bonds, the remainder of the holiday season can do the same.  Dig deep, get a little personal, and hold a discussion.  That dialogue was one of the best lessons I ever taught.

Visiting a Turkish Bath in Istanbul

This is a guest post by Nico Crisafulli. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

Istanbul, Turkey
Istanbul, Turkey

I visited Istanbul with the idea that I would not do a Turkish bath.

I stood by that decision simply because I figured it'd be a bit too touristy, and frankly, it seemed a little silly.

I mean, who sits in a hot room with a bunch of middle-aged, incomprehensible men, sweating and unable to breathe?

The whole idea seemed preposterous.

That was, of course, until the fifth of my six days in the city.

I was dining by myself at a hilariously-named restaurant in the Sultanahmet called Doy Doy, which, surprisingly, had some of the best food I encountered over the course of my stay.

The Lavash bread and lamb casserole were freakishly delicious.

Across the cobblestoned street from the Doy Doy was an inconspicuous entryway with a sign overhead that read "Bath."

It turns out this hamam was unique in the city, one of the longest continuously operating baths in Istanbul.

Established in 1673, the place topped out at a quaint 335 years old, instantly making any American business touting "Since 1973" seem kind of ridiculous in comparison.

Once dinner was fully imbibed and my hands were on my belly, I rather impulsively decided to throw my inhibition into the wind and remove myself from my clothes in the presence of strange Turkish men.

The fact that I had nothing else to do that night was also a consideration.

I walked through the hole-in-the-wall entrance and down the long corridor, tentatively, but confident I'd made the right decision.

The hallway opened up into a room set deep into the hillside, quite underneath the Blue Mosque perched on the hilltop several hundred feet above.

The proprietor stepped up at once and engaged me. He told me his prices along with a few quick details about the place.

Yes, it was older than pretty much anything freestanding in my United States, setting my mind to consider how things must have been upon its grand opening.

Electricity - no.

Running water - somewhat.

Sanitation - fairly questionable.

The man's English was marginal at best, something I actually took pleasure in since most Turks I'd encountered until then held excellent English skills.

(It just feels weird to expect everyone you see to be able to speak your own language no matter where you are in the world.)

I was shown into a dressing room and given a small towel, a pair of rubber clogs, and was left to wonder what next to do.

I undressed, donned said towel and clogs, and stepped out into the suddenly very drafty main salon.

Luckily, it was late, and the place was empty save for the proprietor and one male client who was lounging in an easy-chair smoking a languid cigarette.

The proprietor gave my elbow to an older man, roughly of retirement age, and dressed in nothing but my matching towel and clogs.

He escorted me through a squat doorway into the bath proper.

Turkish mosaic
Turkish mosaic

This is where the experience became an authentic roll through hundreds of years of Turkish history.

The bathrooms were a honeycombed marvel, made fully of marble, laid out as a large hexagon with six circular alcoves around the main room with a high-domed marble ceiling above.

Vents pocked the ceiling, and warm steam permeated the space.

The alcoves were dark and had benches and basins for splashing warm water onto your face and neck.

In the center of the main room sprawled a gigantic marble slab about 15 feet square and was exquisitely warm to the touch.

The older man gestured abrasively for me to lay belly down on the slab. The warmth was magnificent.

Not too hot to scald, but warm enough to quickly bring my core temperature up from the winter chill outside.

I was alone in the dim space, and with my face pressed to marble, couldn't have been more comfortable.

Two minutes later, the older man was dumping hot water on me.

Not misting or sprinkling water but literally unloading pail after pail of sweet hot water all over my back, without pause or explanation.

The sensation was wonderful. Hot marble, hot water, ancient stone containing who knew what history.

Any anxiety I may have had walking into the place was quite literally washed away.

Four pails were unloaded onto me and the old man spoke what I could only assume meant "come with me."

I pulled myself from off the slab and, dripping wet, followed him through a set of swinging doors I hadn't noticed before.

I came into a small, cool, also marble room with showers and another smaller slab upon which I was made to lay.

He thereupon proceeded to pumice me from head to toe. He did this unhesitatingly and without mercy.

When he finished, my entire body was glowing red and quivering like raw meat.

Cat
Cat

Following the exfoliation, I was soaped down with the same willful abandon. Pails of hot water, suds, and oil rained down upon me.

Wet soap was splashed from all angles. What surprised me most about this process was not how my senses were near-electronically lit up but how artfully this man did his job.

He reveled in it, sang, whistled, cascaded pumice over rosy skin as if he was lathing the finest quality wood.

Twenty minutes later, with the treatment nearly done (the finale was probably 10 pails of hot water dumped shamelessly over my head), he incomprehensibly said I had the option to return to the warm slab in the main bath or to adjourn to the salon and changing cabins.

I meekly gestured my wish for the slab and took another 15 minutes daydreaming about sultans and concubines on a piece of marble that felt as soft as pillows.

Once I had my fill, I exited the bath and returned to the salon.

The proprietor came over, gave me a warm, dry towel for my waist, and wrapped another one around my head with such expertise I had a hard time removing it later.

The mirror showed me someone looking vaguely similar to Suleiman the Magnificent, towel on my head tight as a turban.

We chatted awkwardly upon my leaving. He said I had good lips which, according to him, meant that I was an intellectual. Go figure.

His English may have been off, but I took it as a compliment.

The bathing practice has a compelling history in Turkey. Throughout its long Empire-laden history, the Turks have held the practice with solemnity, and it's evident in the ritual.

Some of the most elaborate rooms in the Sultan's palace nearby were dedicated purely to hygiene, which was quite lacking in Western Europe's structures of the same time period.

Not to mention the simple statistic of a public bath remaining in operation well over 3 centuries.

Whatever compelled me to pass through that simple entrance notwithstanding, I'm happy to have experienced this cultural phenomenon first-hand.

I doubt I'll look upon my little bathroom back at home the same way ever again.

___________

Nico Crisafulli writes regularly for the AirTreks blog.

Photos courtesy of the author.

Should Obese People Be Charged For Two Seats?

The picture on the left was taken by an American Airlines flight attendant to show her management what she had to deal with on the flight. The article, which you can read here, got me thinking about a flight I took nine months ago.

The flight was from Brisbane, Australia, to Dubai, UAE. When I checked in, I asked for a window seat (my favorite) but was told the flight was wholly booked from Singapore (the connection) to Dubai. All they had were middle seats.  

The ticket agent got me a window seat on the first leg, but I was told I would move to a middle seat once in Singapore. "Well, you can't win them all, and no worries," I thought.

My flight from Brisbane to Singapore was OK, but it was about half full. When they boarded the connection passengers, I changed to my middle seat and was "stuck" between two large people.

On my left was a larger German man who made Hulk Hogan look small, and on my right was a lady from India who was easily triple the size of most women. Both claimed the armrest on each side of me, leaving me sitting like a child with my hands in my lap.

I was still thinking, "No worries; it's only a six-hour flight, and I can make it." I tried to jockey for some legroom but failed, as both were so large that they couldn't fit their legs under the seat in front of them. This left me with four legs in my area: my two and one each from my fellow passengers.

I'm not a larger person at all, and I stand 5'8" (178 cm) and weigh 160 lbs (73 kg), but I found myself with my head down, arms crossed, and legs crossed one over the other in a strained position for the duration of the flight.  

I didn't say a word to anyone and just kept to myself, but I couldn't walk when we landed! Seriously, because of the cramping position I was in, I had strained my ankles so much that I could barely put pressure on them.  

I walked off the plane looking like a disabled person, and I walked as fast as an older person with a stroller. I wasn't so mad because of this, just in pain, and for what reason?  

After all, I paid good money for my seat, but only got to use half of it. I saw the above picture in the article this week, which got me thinking. After some research, I found that the airlines' policy on this subject isn't consistent.

  • United Airlines: The policy is that if a flight attendant can't find two open seats in coach, larger passengers must buy a second seat, upgrade to business class, or even get bumped from sold-out flights.
  • Air France says those with a "high body mass" can buy a second seat for 25 percent off and be bumped from the flight if they refuse.
  • American Airlines: doesn't have a hard and fast rule, but passengers who weigh more than 250 pounds are told there "may be limitations to the service the airline can provide."
  • Southwest and Midwest Airlines require their larger passengers to purchase a second seat, but will refund the extra fare if there are empty seats on the flight.
  • Delta Airlines: speaks vaguely about not wanting to discriminate against its passengers.
  • JetBlue requires higher-weight passengers to buy a second seat, and no refund is given even if the plane ends up flying practically empty.

I know this is a very sensitive subject, but as more people fly, it is one that is affecting people and should be addressed.  

A law has been passed in Canada barring Canadian airlines from discriminating against "clinically" obese customers. But who decides who is "clinically" obese? Does one have to have a doctor's note?

Is it fair to make one passenger suffer when they paid the same (maybe more) for a seat but are overtaken by their neighbor?

It would be like renting a hotel room for yourself only to share it with a family that has rented one room but doesn't have the bed space for everyone, thus taking the spare bed in your room. Some say it's unethical; others say it's unfair for the other passengers. Who is right, and who is wrong?

The real question is why the airlines haven't gotten together on this subject and addressed it consistently.  

Is Delta Airlines saving so much business by staying vague about this subject compared to JetBlue, which has taken a firm stance on it?

Some have taken legal action. In 2002, a woman from the UK won a settlement from Virgin Airlines for just over $20,000 (€13,500) because she was crushed by a heavier person sitting next to her during an 11-hour flight.

A Frenchman who weighed 170 kg (375 lbs) won a court case against Air France after a crew member wrapped him in packing tape to prove that he was too large for a single seat, thus making him buy a second seat.

Who defines if someone is obese or just large? Would it be fair if the large person (think Great Khali from WWE Wrestling who has a body fat of five percent but weighs 420 lbs) that isn't obese but just a huge person have to pay for two seats, but someone who is "clinically" obese doesn't?  

If the airlines charge a higher-weight person for two seats, why can't all-you-can-eat buffets charge double for the same person? What are your thoughts on this subject?

NYC Brunch at 5 Points

The Saturday Brunch Rush at 5 Points
The Saturday Brunch Rush at 5 Points

After a raucous night of karaoke with my travel blogging brethren, it was time to catch up with an old friend I hadn't seen since 1) he got married, and 2) I left on my trip around the world.

Kosher salt
Kosher salt

I took a taxi over to my friend Kai's apartment, and there was the man, Chris, who had dared me to cage dive with Great White sharks off the coast of South Africa.  It was great to see him again.

Due to rain, we headed for a nearby restaurant called 5 Points in the Village.

The place was hopping, however we managed to secure a table after only a few minutes of waiting at the bar.

I was immediately impressed with the kosher salt they offered on the table.  It's my salt of choice, and a rare find on a restaurant table.

The service by our waiter was excellent, and in no time, we were chowing down on sugary churros, dipped in hot chocolate.   The sweet pastries reminded me of the ones I sampled in Barcelona at the start of the year.

Churros and hot chocolate
Churros and hot chocolate

We continued to catch up...and then it arrived.

Possibly the most delectable brunch dish I've had since discovering Eggs Benedict a long, long time ago.

House-Made Pork-Fennel Sausage & Poached Eggs on a Cheddar-Chive Biscuit with Roasted Tomato Sauce & Hollandaise Fondue

Words won't do it justice.  Nor does the $14 price tag.

It was rich and decadent.  The fennel-flavored sausage was unlike any other I'd tasted, and the biscuit held up well against all the moisture from the egg and tomato sauce.

I finished it...barely.

5 Points gets five stars in my book for ambiance, service, and quality of food.

_________________________

5 Points Restaurant - 31 Great Jones St, New York, NY

Friday Flashback - Koh Samui, Thailand

Chaweng Beach - Koh Samui, Thailand
Chaweng Beach - Koh Samui, Thailand

I'd been waiting a long, long time to visit the islands of Thailand, and the popular Chaweng Beach on Koh Samui was my first stop.  I spent a week there, before moving on to the real party scene on Koh Phangan.

Bye Bye Bangkok, Hello Koh Samui

Chaweng Beach Life

Kayaking Ang Thong National Marine Park

#Twitaoke: Travel Bloggers Rock NYC's Koreatown

Jodi and Amanda singing a duet
Jodi and Amanda (right) singing "Tocal Eclipse of the Heart"

Riddle me this:  What happens when you confine 20-some travel bloggers to a private karaoke room in New York City, with easy access to a bar, and a whole lotta music?

Answer:  Heaps of laughter, singing, dancing, drinking, networking, and a few unexpected breakout performances!

Such was the scene for #Twitaoke 2009, which offered travel bloggers in New York City and Washington, DC a great chance to come together for a common cause - bad singing...err, I mean networking.

I met Sean, Alisha, and Stacey from Sosauce outside Duet 35 in Koreatown.  It was chilly, but since we were about 15 minutes early, we hung out there thinking nobody else had arrived. 

Of course we were wrong, as a bunch of people were already upstairs enjoying the warmth of our large, private room overlooking the street.

(from right) Dave, Danielle, Leslie, Stacey, and Alisha
(from left) Alisha, Stacey, Leslie, Danielle, Dave

The order of arrivals is now lost on me, and in the absence of a roll call, (though not an icebreaker which Alisha had us go through), I believe the following people were present:

Dave (me) - Go Backpacking

Danielle - Go Backpacking and Around the World in 340 Days

Leslie - Go Backpacking and The Whole Plate

Michaela rocks out
Michaela dancing

Stephanie (also from VA)- Twenty-Something Travel

Sean, Alisha, Stacey - Sosauce

Michaela - Briefcase to Backpack

Sherry - Ottsworld and Briefcase to Backpack

Amanda, Jen, and Holly - The Lost Girls

Andrew - The Brooklyn Nomad

Brian Peters - No Debt Travel World

Grant - Imagine: A Vagabond Story

Jodi - Legal Nomads

Melanie and Paul - Wayward Winos

Bruce - GAP Adventures (honorable mention - we meant to have him there!)

There were also a few friends of the Lost Girls that joined us, including Courtney (amazing singer) and Stephanie who was celebrating her last day of work with Seventeen magazine.

Not only was this a room full of travel bloggers, but seven of them had also been on trips around the world! 

Amanda, Jen, Holly, Sherry, Brian and I had completed RTW trips, while Jodi was on a break from hers. 

As I type this up, she has already continued onward to Asia (follow her at Legal Nomads).

Paul and Melanie rock out to Meatloaf
Paul and Melanie put on a show to Meatloaf

I had the honor of being nominated to sing first before I'd even had a chance to drink half a beer and meet everyone. 

I chose "It's Still Rock 'n Roll To Me" by Billy Joel, which also happened to be the last song I sang for karaoke with colleagues in Richmond before leaving on my RTW trip.

Unfortunately, the staff lady punched the code in wrong and a song by The Cars came on instead. 

I hesitated, not knowing it, and Andrew stepped up to officially break the ice. 

Then, I belted (ok, sang quietly) Billy Joel, and by then the girls started inputting the songs they knew and loved.

Noteworthy Performances

Best all around:  Paul and Melanie's duet of Meatloaf's "Paradise by the Dashboard Light"

Best voices:  Jodi and The Lost Girls, plus Courtney, a friend of the LG's

Best dancing:  Michaela (all of her songs)

Best avoidance of singing:  Grant and Sherry

Best avoidance of the event altogether:  Mike Barish (who was cooking reindeer fried rice in Canada)

Best song selection:  Danielle and Leslie for Journey's "Don't Stop Believin"

Most songs sung by a guy:  Sean

Best comeback:  Dave (me) for Blink 182's "Dammit" (Alisha joining me, and some Grey Goose helped)

Best props:  Michaela (who brought muppets for the finale - "Bohemian Rhapsody")

Rockin out to classic Billy Joel
Rockin' out to classic Billy Joel

As the event unfolded, I realized a raucous karaoke night isn't especially conducive for getting to know new people.

It was a lot of fun, of course, and I give big credit to those who sang in front of so many people they were meeting for the first time (Brian, Stephanie, Andrew).

Special thanks to Alisha from Sosauce for helping to book the room and organize us travel bloggers into a cohesive unit, if only for a few short hours on a Friday night in NYC.

Photo credit:  Billy Joel courtesy of Stephanie Yoder

Travel Gets Social at 92YTribeca

Last Thursday night, I descended upon 92YTribeca in NYC for a panel discussion called Travel Gets Social: The New World of Travel Media.

Also in attendance:  Maggie Soladay whose tweet about it first caught my eye, Michaela from Briefcase to Backpack, Sherry from Ottsworld, and Brian from No Debt World Travel.  Later, I gathered that the rest of the room was filled with PR people.

Mark Johnson, founder of Jaunted.com and Hotel Chatter, moderated the night's discussion, which revolved around how social media is being used by travel writers, companies, and hotels.  The panel consisted of Matt Gross aka The Frugal Traveler for the New York Times, Bowen Payson of Virgin America, and Adam Wallace of the Roger Smith Hotel.

I sat, sipping my Pabst Blue Ribbon, and nodding along to a lot of what was being said.  I was happy to hear Matt was a Couchsurfing proponent, while Adam's independent hotel had clearly proven it understands how to leverage blogs and social media to increase business.  There was a lot of Twitter talk, and I admit to tweeting something during the Q&A, however later on, I noticed very few others beyond Maggie and I had done the same.  What's up with that...at a social media event no less!?

After the Q&A wrapped up, I managed to spend time chatting with everyone from the panel, plus a bunch of PR folks including Sarah from the Glam Globetrotter.  As the lobby began to clear out, Mark invited Maggie, myself and a few others to join him and his team for drinks.

We ended up at an empty, but intimate, Spanish restaurant nearby.  Salsa music was playing over the sound system, and sangria and tapas were ordered.  Needless to say, the talk revolved around travel.  I enjoyed the extra time with Cynthia, Editor (and tweeter) of Jaunted, and Juliana, the Managing Editor of Jaunted, Hotel Chatter, and Vegas Chatter.

_________

Read Cynthia's perspective on What You Missed When Travel Media Took Over Tribeca Last Night

More Travel Tales by Emily Callagan

You remember Emily Callaghan, right?  She wrote the most popular article on Go Backpacking last month, entitled "The Importance of Hooking Up Abroad."

Since so many people enjoyed her writing, we thought it was time to share a little more of it. 

The following excerpts are from her stories on Drexel's blog, The Smart Set.

Birthday Wish

I woke up angry on the day before my 21st birthday. I lay in the bed of a Copacabana hostel in Rio de Janeiro, shivering next to Ayal "" my Israeli travel-friend-with-benefits as he slept soundly. After the initial 20 minutes of our reconvening in Rio, nothing had been remotely ideal. We argued. I was jealous and paranoid. I wanted all of his attention. I wanted to know his feelings, but I also didn't want to have to ask. I was afraid of him, and afraid of myself, too, because I was in unfamiliar territory. I had no control. I hated this but also knew that if I had control, things wouldn't be nearly as intriguing.

And so I was simply angry. Angry I had barely slept, angry my eyes were stinging from tears. I thought about heading back to Buenos Aires again, leaving him and his dreadlocks lying in our hostel bed. But I decided to wait until after my birthday. I had, after all, waited a month for this. Chance had stationed me and Ayal in the same Buenos Aires hostel for a while, and then I followed him to Iguazu Falls. But our time together ended or was put on pause, I should say. He headed north to Brazil while I returned to the Paris of South America, where I spent several weeks dreaming of our perfect reunion before passing out each night, despite all the other boys.

Read the rest of Birthday Wish.

Toked Affection

I've smoked a lot of weed in my day. Blunts with boys on stoops in bad neighborhoods, metal pipes with middle-aged Buddhists, roaches with an old man hooked up to an oxygen tank at a Dead concert, and gravity bongs made out of POM bottles. I would never classify my avocation as an addiction. But perhaps an appetite? Something old Aristotle might say is "the cause of all actions that appear pleasant"? I'd say so.

One would assume that a philosopher would approve of such appetites. Weed does, after all, inspire thinking, pondering, concluding all that good stuff. But reading a line from his Rhetoric gave me a twinge of uneasiness, as though an assumed supporter no longer stood by me. He writes, "A 'criminal act' ... is due to moral badness, for that is the source of all actions inspired by our appetite."

I never saw this hobby as "bad," for I wasn't harming anyone. If anything, I was spreading love and uniting random groups of people like a member of the Peace Corps. Yeah, it's "illegal," but I don't sell and I'd never mugged a person for their pot, so am I still "morally bad?"

And are my actions "criminal" strictly because they're banned by law? Whereas if I had been born in Amsterdam I wouldn't be performing an act deemed "criminal" and therefore not filled with moral badness by Aristotle's standards? If that were the case, would my leisure pursuit still be inspired by appetite?

Not that I am, or ever have been, too concerned about it.

On my third day in Valencia, Spain, where I was studying for the summer, I stood in the booze aisle of the supermarket. Not yet 21 years old, I was as happy as a pig in shit. Liquor. Wine. Liters of beer in plastic containers.

Read the rest of Toked Affection

ESL Students Say the Darnedest Things

Prague
Prague

There are moments as an ESL instructor where circumstances teach you to bite your tongue.  Yes, you want to correct your students' every mistake.  But, if that were the case, said student would likely manage a total of five statements in sixty minutes.  The goal is to speak, not to be crowned Ms. Perfect.

Letting mistakes slide is a bit of a subjective art for each teacher.  My toughest "should I interrupt" debates typically centered around errors that would undoubtedly result in an awkward moment.  A favorite example came from my close friend and Prague roommate, who was, at the moment in question, leading a lesson based around one of the popular and life-saving controversial topic lessons.

The focus was on relationships of the male/female variety.  It was a private lesson, and the student had made some astute observations, in the midst of which he used the term, " intraception."?  My friend was then faced with the choice so many of us knew well: interrupt with the correct word, or let the obvious mistake slide in favor of promoting fluency.  After all, the point was still communicated, and you have to give it to the student: the prefix he chose makes a little bit of sense.

I have to be honest: sometimes, I remained silent, grinning internally at my students' expense.  (Please don't judge; we all have our flaws).  Poking a bit of fun over post-teaching drinks is practically a traditional pastime for the ESL set.  I can clearly remember sitting with a glass of wine and the same friend, who shared her student's most recent inquiry:

" Why are you a vegetable?"?

Vegetarianism is not exactly common in Prague, making the error that much easier to laugh about.

In all seriousness, however, English is a tough language.  You have to sympathize with students who had never learned that the positioning of the words " get,"? " on,"? and " it"? can change markedly change the speaker's meaning.  Those same students would never guess that while you may ask your boss to " shut down"? a computer, you probably shouldn't tell her to simply " shut up."

Whose responsibility is it to correct these mistakes?  This was a common debate amongst the teachers I knew.  Should we step in, potentially embarrassing both the student and ourselves?  Or should we shrug it off, hoping our student didn't curse us later in life for allowing future awkwardness to occur?

For better or worse, for me, those decisions were dependent on my relationship with the student.  I could discuss anything with the twenty-five year old female secretary I saw twice a week.  But the customs officer whose age was close to my father's?  My belated apologies, sir - no one warned me ESL required a backbone.

The Geography of Bliss

The Geography of BlissI am, for the most part, a person that looks on the bright side of things, and on a happiness scale of one to ten, a strong 8.5, maybe more. But why? How? And what is it about where I am that makes it so?

Eric Weiner attempts to answer all these questions in his book, The Geography of Bliss, a year of exploration to ten of the happiest places in the world.

During his successful career in journalism, first as a New York Times reporter, then as a foreign correspondent for NPR, he traveled to more than 30 countries, " most of them profoundly unhappy."? All the coverage of consequential bad news, as most news is, had taken a toll on his personal happiness. Weiner was a grump and a " self-described mope"? and sets out with good intentions to change.

He begins in Rotterdam's World Database of Happiness. He discovers that the study of happiness, like any other scientific field of study, is not particularly warm and fuzzy, that happiness is subjective, and that some things, like happiness, are beyond measuring.

Still, from the Netherlands, a country of tolerance and freedom, Weiner visits the clean and punctual streets of Switzerland. He finds a connection between boredom and patience, patience and happiness. And that perhaps, a combination of three makes it easier " to just be."? He then goes to Bhutan, a real life Shangri-La, a place where other expats warn, " If you stay here long enough, you lose touch with reality."? But maybe warning is not the right word to describe it, for the simplicity of life in Bhutan brings him peace, as he falls deeper into the trance of a country that prioritizes Gross National Happiness. From there Weiner spends time in Qatar, Iceland, Moldova, Thailand, Great Britain, India, and wraps it all up in his home country of the United States.

Although an optimistic nation, the U.S. is nowhere near the happiest. " We are able to acquire many of the things that we think will make us happy and therefore suffer the confusion and disappointment when they do not."? Our lives, for the most part are led too quickly, too focused, and with too much room for improvement, (something better, something bigger). There is not enough for human connection and contentment.

In the end, he concludes that, " Money matters, but less than we think and not in the way that we think. Family is important. So are friends. Envy is toxic. So is excessive thinking. Beaches are optional. Trust is not. Neither is gratitude."? A conclusion and yet there is not even an inkling of a definitive answer.

The reader, however, is hardly left confused, let alone unfulfilled. Weiner's writing is charming, enlightening, and funny. In my experience he sometimes evoked moments of embarrassment as I literally laughed out loud while reading in my favorite cafe.

Furthermore, he is not merely traveling to find any answers. He uses his journalistic talents to meet and spend time with so-called happiness experts as well as lifelong residents, global nomads and country leaders. His interviews are in-depth and casual and reveal more about the study of happiness in some ways than most scientific studies. The beauty of Weiner's travelogue, however, is that he also weaves this science throughout, providing proof and well-research insight into his personal findings.

He experiences the cultures just as the reader does, with a fresh yet critical perspective. It is impossible to truly encompass one people, one life, one country in a single book let alone a single chapter and yet his participatory lifestyle provides a satisfying dip.

Weiner is a wonderful companion and leader on a journey that has the power to take you simultaneously around the world and within the complete being of yourself. If there's one thing to take away from The Geography of Bliss, it is to " allow these places [that Weiner explores] to move us."? And of course, to smile more.

In the comforting words of one of the leading happiness researchers, Jon Helliwell, " It's simple. There's more than one path to happiness."?

Where will it lead you?

Majdanek Muzeum: Reflections on Touring a Concentration Camp

Majdanek concentration camp
Majdanek concentration camp

In Lublin, I take bus #156 four kilometers out of the city center to visit the Majdanek Muzeum.

Concentration Camp. Prison. Death Camp.

Unlike Birkenau hidden in a rural field, or Auschwitz tucked behind a small town, the barbed wire of Majdanek runs along the main road.

I can see small clusters of homes less than 100 meters from camp buildings. Not to mention a panoramic view of downtown Lublin.

Majdanek was one of the largest prisons and is laid out in the eerie rows of rectangular wooden barracks.

I start the tourist route entering the men's bathhouse — a building where men were both cleansed and exterminated.

I read the sign in the first room and gasp at the grid of showerheads above me.

I quickly move on to the next room before being trampled by the horde of naked emancipated men feeling the concave where their stomachs used to be.

Knowing exactly how many spoonfuls of soup are necessary for survival.

A peek into the next room isn't much better. Shelves of empty Zyklon B canisters. The poison of the masses.

Saving the worst for last is the room where people were locked, and Zyklon B was dispensed. With an attached small closet with a square peephole to witness the murder.

"Sick..." I mutter aloud in disgust and rush to exit the building.

After only these three rooms, I am unsure I want to visit the rest of the camp.

See also: How to Travel Poland on a Budget

Majdanek Muzeum
Majdanek Muzeum

I sigh and realize that I must not be overtaken by ignorance. I walk along the stone road into the camp.

I remember reading in a museum back in Krakow, that at some of the camps, the gravel paths were crushed tombstones uprooted from Jewish cemeteries.

I pick up several of the stones at my feet. A couple could be fragments from the granite grave markers I have seen.

Closing my eyes, I take a deep breath and move to the grass.

One of the buildings has its door opened forebodingly. With hesitant steps, I peek inside. Shoes. Hundreds. Perhaps thousands of shoes.

Tall metal crates with men's, women's, and children's footwear line the sides and run through the middle of the long building.

I can't bring myself to enter this building; to get lost in the infinity of history's hostage remains.

I finally made it to the back of the prison, to the crematorium.

The name gives a more positive connotation that should be allotted to a structure not of death but of annihilation.

It was with great trepidation that I finally entered the open doorway, braving my imagination of being trapped in a horrific nightmare.

My shadow followed me through two empty rooms until reaching the back room.

Unlike the other prison buildings I entered, only my lone footsteps echoed on the cement floor.

I didn't hear despairing moans, cries of pain, or even soft, sad sobbing.

My breathing seemed out of place in this black hole of an existence.

Majdanek crematorium
Crematorium

It wasn't the brick ovens that arrested my attention. Red brick with iron castings, resembling an old-fashioned country home furnace or a 19th-century bakery.

It was the metal stretchers sticking out of the openings. The same likeness of hospital stretchers used to carry ill human beings down an infirmary corridor.

This is not a cozy cottage, a bakery, or a hospital. The intersection of images suddenly shocked.

My whole body started quivering as I read the short signposting to my left.

The heat from these ovens was used to heat the water used in the prison showers.

The ashes were mixed in with the fertilizer that prisoners used during their forced farm labor.

I glanced back at exhibit 1. This is not a replica or a reconstruction. These bricks are smeared with the black smoke of singed human flesh.

Next was the mausoleum. I walked up the steps and peered under the large dome.

I looked up and down the 5-meter tall pile of grey ash. There was another visitor to my right — human ash.

Our eyes met and shared a brief, tight-lipped grimace. Any words would seem awkward or rude.

The passing exchange was enough to communicate: This was real. This is real.

On my way out of the camp, I looked over at the black crows like vultures encircling and swooping through the expanse of field.

"How do they know" I wondered, "that death oozes from this earth?"

They must share my empty expired sensations.

I wanted to tell them, "You are only looking for ghosts."

Suffocating in the crowd of ghosts among us.

____

All photos courtesy of Barak Broitman, Pixabay.

Is Couchsurfing Really That Safe?

Couchsurfing is an excellent way to find a cheap place to stay in Tokyo, Japan
Couchsurfing in Tokyo (photo: Dave Lee)

Q: I am now officially a Couchsurfer, but is it really that safe?

A: The short answer is yes! Couchsurfing is really that safe, thanks to several precautions that the site has taken and several precautions that you can take yourself.

I will discuss these in depth, however, let me preface this article by stating that I think the best way to approach Couchsurfing, especially for the first time, is to view it as if you were going on a blind date.

The majority of us, before accepting a blind date, do some background work.

We ask numerous questions about the person who is arranging the date.

If the potential date does not live up to our standards, then we do not accept the date.

If we happen to know other people who might also know our date, then we ask them their opinions as well.

This is the attitude you should have when Couchsurfing.

Under no circumstances do you Couchsurf without doing your research.

The site has created 3 safety measures to provide Couchsurfers with a sense of security.

These measures can be viewed on every single profile and you should make certain that at least 1-2 have been met for yourself and for the Couchsurfers that you will meet.

Personal References

When Couchsurfers meet, they are strongly encouraged to leave each other references whether the experience was positive or negative.

These references are permanent. Thus, if someone is left a negative reference, anyone can see this and they cannot take it down.

I do not believe that you should necessarily discredit a person if they have 1 negative reference in the midst of many positive ones, but if someone has more than 1, I suggest moving on to another profile.

Make sure to thoroughly read each reference. These really inform you of what kind of person you will be meeting.

Address Verification System

This can be done by either donating some money to the site via a credit card, whereupon the site checks your address to make sure that it matches the one you have originally provided them with.

Or, the site will send you a letter in the mail with a code that you must then enter into the site once received.

This measure is optional. If you plan on really making Couchsurfing a significant part of your life, then this is a good measure to take to ensure people that you are 100% honest.

Personal Vouches

If a Couchsurfer has received 3 vouches, then they are granted the power to vouch for other people.

Vouches are taken very seriously. A lot of thought must be taken before vouching for someone, therefore you can feel confident that a person is trustworthy if you see them with multiple vouches.

I cannot reiterate enough that research is of the utmost importance!

Not only should you check for the 3 safety measures, but you should also read members profiles to get a sense of their personality and what their home situation is like.

When looking for accommodation you can search for hosts using various parameters that may appeal to you such as age, location, sex, and activity level.

As a female, I recommend female Couchsurfing newbies to surf with other females for maximum comfort in the beginning.

And remember, you might not click with the Couchsurfer 100%, just like you might not with a blind date since it is a gamble after all. 

Though keep in mind that it can still end up being a positive experience, since meeting new people always opens the door to learning new things about life and yourself.

Nazi Concentration Camps: Walking Among Ghosts in Poland

varmer Unlike the other Polish cemeteries I have seen around town; each grave site shrouded in fresh flowers and candle lanterns, this one is different. No one comes here to visit their deceased family relatives or friends. No one is around to sweep the autumn leaves blanketing the walkways. No one to pull the moss from and level the tombstones leaning at 20 degrees. No one can trace their family line back to Samuel Stein who died in 1923. No one remembers who he is. History lost unable to be retrieved.

***
Against stereotypes, Hollywood can nobly raise a true story to a popular consciousness that is important to be remembered by millions. Walking amid the remains of Schindler's Factory, the afternoon rain can't wash away disillusionment. Pastel colors can't hide the grey facades of the communist buildings in the background. Misery atop misery. The small adjoining museum traces Adolf Hitler's rise to political power and Oskar Schindler's rise to human compassion.
***
I'm not sure how locals can live in this scarred neighborhood. Walking past the remains of the Jewish ghetto wall everyday; can they begin to imagine their life under a Jewish visage? I feel rather uneasy taking a photo of the crumbling height of brick. Is this a photograph of a historical site or of someone's misery?
***
After an hour and a half on a train I arrive in the Polish town of Oswiecim. I walk to the end of town past gilded Communist apartment complexes, canary yellow forcing a smile. I reach the Museum of Aushwitz. The name is unfitting. Museums aren't associated with death. I shouldn't feel like this when I visit a museum. All the Holocaust media I have previously ingested rushes to me. The personal accounts. The textbook facts. The archived photographs. All come from this place.
It seems redundant to hire a tour guide to tell me all the textbook facts I've already read and stories that seem an insult to atrocity if not described in a survivors own words. The scenery tells it's own story. A story that alarms me with its unabashed nakedness. The double barbed wire still encloses stark two-story brick buildings, and signs still hang in German. I hold my breath and tears to past under the iron entrance arch branded with "Arbeit macht frei". "Work brings freedom". Perhaps I feel ashamed to enter this place as a tourist, free from the despondency that it brought to thousands of people. Immediately after, a grim silence takes over.
Several of the buildings of the former prison were transferred into exhibits with informational displays and plaques written in Polish, English, and Hebrew. Basic descriptional captions become morbid.
One photo enlarged shows two young children walking merrily hand in hand along a railway platform with the caption: "On the way to death". I shuddered at the unexaggerated truth.
"In this cell a Polish priest pledged to starve to death in order to save another prisoner."
"In this building several German scientists conducted human experimentation on women prisoners some who died or were maimed for life"
"Cement roller that was utilized with human power"
Others didn't need any caption at all. Behind a large glass window there was a 10 x 5 m area of: human hair. Sold to German textile factories.
***
Veiled by a new reality swinging back and forth on the hinges of death, I take the shuttle bus to Birkenau another camp 20 minutes away.
Looking at the railway tracks running through the middle of the vast field, this is raw. Walking along the train tracks, along the platform, it's easy to imagine the death march taken by thousands.
I enter a wooden barrack; a place that is properly suited to house horses or cows or goats. Three-tiered bunks line the walls.
I catch snippets from a group tour in English. "What you can't experience today is the smell," the guide is saying, "If you can imagine all the bodies packed into this small area it gives you a sense of how strong the odor was. An odor that could be smelled 5 km away."
If I don't already feel inundated by the sounds of my imagination, the gustatory sense completes the terrific nightmare.
At the end of the train tracks I stand at the memorial, read the inscription, and look back on the horrific mess.
"Forever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women, and children, mainly Jews from various countries of Europe" -Auschwitz-Birkenau 1940-1945
It's hard to imagine about one and a half million people in one place. Harder still to imagine human beings in the shape of herded goats.
Afterwards, I discovered a poem by Nobel Laureate Polish poet, Wislawa Szymborska, which fit my feelings:
Starvation Camp at Jaslo
Write this down. Write it. In ordinary ink
on ordinary paper: they were given no food,
all died of hunger. All. How many?
It's a large meadow. How much grass
was there per person? Write it down: I don't know.
History rounds off skeletons to the nearest zero.
A thousand and one is still a thousand.
As if that one weren't there at all:
an imaginary embryo, empty cradle,
a primer opened for no one,
air that laughs and screams and grows,
stairs for the void running down to the garden,
nobody's place in the ranks.
This is the meadow where it became flesh.
But the meadow is silent as a bribed witness.
In the sunlight. Green. Over there is a forest
for chewing wood, for drinking from under bark--
a daily helping of landscape,
until one goes blind. Up there is a bird,
that moved across lips as a shadow
of its nutritious wings. Jaws opened,
teeth would chomp.
At night a sickle would flash in the sky,
reaping dreamt-up grain for dreamt-up loaves.
Hands of blackened icons would fly in,
bearing empty goblets.
On a spit of barbed wire
a man was swaying.
They were singing with soil in their mouths. A lovely song
about the way war hits you right in the heart.
Write about the silence here.
Yes.
***
In Lublin, I take the bus 156 4 km out of the city center to visit the Majdanek Muzeum. Concentration Camp. Prison. Death Camp. Unlike Birkenau hidden in a rural field, or Aushwitz tucked behind a small town, the barbed wire of Majdanek runs along the main road. I can see small clusters of homes less than 100 meters from camp buildings. Not to mention a panoramic view of downtown Lublin.
Majdanek was one of the largest prisons and is laid out in the eerie rows of rectangular wooden barracks. I start the tourist route entering the men's bathhouse. A building where men were both cleansed and exterminated. I read the sign in the first room and gasp at the grid of shower heads above me. I quickly move on to the next room before being trampled by the horde of naked emancipated men feeling the concave where their stomachs used to be. Knowing exactly how many spoonfuls of soup is necessary for survival. A peek into the next room isn't much better. Shelves of empty Zyklon B canisters. The poison of the masses. Saving the worst for last, is the room where people were locked and Zyklon B was dispensed. With an attached small closet with a square peephole to witness murder. "Sick..." I mutter aloud in disgust and rush to exit the building. After only these three rooms, I am unsure I want to visit the rest of the camp. I sigh and realize that I must not to overtaken by ignorance. I walk along the stone road into the camp. I remember reading in a museum back in Krakow that at some of the camps the gravel paths were crushed tombstones uprooted from Jewish cemeteries. I pick up several of the stones at my feet. A couple could be fragments from the granite grave markers I have seen. Closing my eyes, I take a deep breath and move to the grass.
One of the buildings has its door opened forebodingly. With hesitant steps I peek inside. Shoes. Hundreds. Perhaps thousands of shoes. Tall metal crates with men's, women's, and children's footwear line the sides and run through the middle of the long building. I can't bring myself to enter this building; to get lost in the infinity of history's hostage remains.
I finally made it to the back of the prison, to the crematorium. The name gives a more positive connotation that should be allotted to a structure not of death but of annihilation. It was with great trepidation that I finally entered the open doorway, braving my imagination of being trapped in a horrific nightmare. My shadow followed me through two empty rooms until reaching the back room. Unlike the other prison buildings I entered, only my lone footsteps echoed on the cement floor. I didn't hear despairing moans, cries of pain, or even soft sad sobbing. My own breathing seemed out of place in this black hole of existence. It wasn't the brick ovens that arrested my attention. Red brick with iron castings, resembling an old-fashioned country home furnace or an 19th century bakery. It was the metal stretchers sticking out of the openings. The same likeness of hospital stretchers used to carry ill human beings down a infirmary corridor. This is not a cozy cottage, a bakery, or a hospital. The intersection of images suddenly shocked. My whole body started quivering as I read the short signposting to my left. The heat from these ovens was used to heat the water used in the prison showers. The ashes were mixed in with the fertilizer that prisoners used during their forced farm labor. I glanced back at exhibit 1. This is not a replica or a reconstruction. These bricks smeared with the black smoke of signed human flesh.
Next was the mausoleum. I walked up the steps, and peered under the large dome. I looked up and down the 5 m tall pile of grey ash. There was another visitor to my right. Human ash. Our eyes meet and shared a brief tight-lipped grimace. Any words would seem awkward or rude. The passing exchange was enough to communicate: This was real. This is real.
On my way out of the camp, I looked over at the black crows like vultures encircling and swooping through the expanse of field. "How do they know" I wondered, "that deaths oozes from this earth?" They must share my empty expired sensations. I wanted to tell them, "You are only looking for ghosts".  Suffocating in the crowd of ghosts among us.

Auschwitz, a Nazi concentration camp
Auschwitz, a Nazi concentration camp (photo: JuanCarlosParadell)

Poland is full of ghosts. Everywhere. Some are invoking the warmth of a sincere compliment, others bearing the weight of a lie everyone seems to believe — all mysterious.

Past the trendy cafes, beyond the Catholic church spires, Poland has a history that begs to be revisited.

This is a recollection of my experiences among the tragic, chilling whispers of those who once inhabited the land that is now Poland, drawing on visits to three different concentration camps, one former Jewish ghetto, one overgrown Jewish cemetery, and one former forced labor factory.

Unlike some experiences, where a body can develop numbness to repeated pain for survival reasons, each visit to the locales of these ghosts elicits physical reactions that aren't callous.

The rapid heart rate. A sinking stomach. Clammy palms. Woozy light-headedness. Every time.

Unlike the other Polish cemeteries I have seen around town, each gravesite is shrouded in fresh flowers and candle lanterns; this one is different.

No one comes here to visit their deceased family, relatives, or friends.

No one is around to sweep the autumn leaves blanketing the walkways.

No one to pull the moss from and level the tombstones leaning at 20 degrees.

No one can trace their family line back to Samuel Stein, who died in 1923.

No one remembers who he is. History lost, unable to be retrieved.

Against stereotypes, Hollywood can nobly raise a true story to a popular consciousness that is important to be remembered by millions.

Walking amid the remains of Schindler's Factory, the afternoon rain can't wash away disillusionment.

Pastel colors can't hide the grey facades of the communist buildings in the background — misery atop misery.

The small adjoining museum traces Adolf Hitler's rise to political power and Oskar Schindler's rise to human compassion.

I'm not sure how locals can live in this scarred neighborhood.

Walking past the remains of the Jewish ghetto wall every day, can they begin to imagine their life under a Jewish visage?

I feel rather uneasy taking a photo of the crumbling height of brick.

Is this a photograph of a historical site or someone's misery?

See also: Majdanek Muzeum - Touring a Nazi Concentration Camp

Oven at Auschwitz
Oven where Jews were mass murdered (photo: alanbatt)

Auschwitz

After an hour and a half on a train, I arrive in the Polish town of Oswiecim.

I walk to the end of town past gilded Communist apartment complexes, canary yellow forcing a smile. I reach the Museum of Auschwitz.

The name is unfitting. Museums aren't associated with death, and I shouldn't feel like this when I visit one.

All the Holocaust media I have previously ingested rushes to me. The personal accounts. The textbook facts. The archived photographs. All come from this place.

It seems redundant to hire an Auschwitz tour guide to tell me all the textbook facts I've already read and stories that seem an insult to atrocity if not described in a survivor's own words.

The scenery at a Nazi concentration camp tells its own story. A story that alarms me with its unabashed nakedness.

The double barbed wire still encloses stark two-story brick buildings, and signs still hang in German.

Auschwitz gate
"Work brings freedom" sign (photo: Dariusz Staniszewski)

I hold my breath and tears to pass under the iron entrance arch branded with "Arbeit macht frei." "Work brings freedom."

Perhaps I feel ashamed to enter this place as a tourist, free from the despondency it brought thousands of people.

Immediately after, a grim silence takes over.

Several of the buildings of the former prison were transferred into exhibits with informational displays and plaques written in Polish, English, and Hebrew.

Basic descriptional captions become morbid.

One enlarged photo shows two young children walking merrily, hand in hand, along a railway platform, with the caption: "On the way to death."

I shuddered at the unexaggerated truth.

"In this cell a Polish priest pledged to starve to death in order to save another prisoner."

"In this building several German scientists conducted human experimentation on women prisoners some who died or were maimed for life."

"Cement roller that was utilized with human power."

Others didn't need any caption at all. Behind a large glass window, there was a 10x5 m area of human hair, which was sold to German textile factories.

Train tracks at Auschwitz
Train tracks at a Nazi concentration camp (photo: alanbatt)

Birkenau

Veiled by a new reality swinging back and forth on the hinges of death, I take the shuttle bus to Birkenau, another Nazi concentration camp 20 minutes away.

Looking at the railway tracks running through the middle of the vast field, this is raw.

Walking along the train tracks and the platform, it's easy to imagine the death march taken by thousands.

I enter a wooden barrack, a place properly suited to housing horses, cows, or goats. Three-tiered bunks line the walls.

I catch snippets from a group tour in English.

"What you can't experience today is the smell," the guide says. If you can imagine all the bodies packed into this small area, it gives you a sense of how strong the odor was—an odor that could be smelled 5 km away."

If I don't already feel inundated by the sounds of my imagination, the gustatory sense completes the terrific nightmare.

At the end of the train tracks, I stand at the memorial, read the inscription, and look back on the horrific mess.

"Forever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women, and children, mainly Jews from various countries of Europe."

-Auschwitz-Birkenau 1940-1945

It's hard to imagine about one and a half million people in one place.

Harder still to imagine human beings in the shape of herded goats.

Starvation Camp at Jaslo

Afterward, I discovered a poem by Nobel Laureate Polish poet Wislawa Szymborska, which fit my feelings:

Starvation Camp at Jaslo

Write this down. Write it. In ordinary ink

on ordinary paper: they were given no food,

all died of hunger. All. How many?

It's a large meadow. How much grass

was there per person? Write it down: I don't know.

History rounds off skeletons to the nearest zero.

A thousand and one is still a thousand.

As if that one weren't there at all:

an imaginary embryo, empty cradle,

a primer opened for no one,

air that laughs and screams and grows,

stairs for the void running down to the garden,

nobody's place in the ranks.

This is the meadow where it became flesh.

But the meadow is silent as a bribed witness.

In the sunlight. Green. Over there is a forest

for chewing wood, for drinking from under bark--

a daily helping of landscape,

until one goes blind. Up there is a bird,

that moved across lips as a shadow

of its nutritious wings. Jaws opened,

teeth would chomp.

At night a sickle would flash in the sky,

reaping dreamt-up grain for dreamt-up loaves.

Hands of blackened icons would fly in,

bearing empty goblets.

On a spit of barbed wire

a man was swaying.

They were singing with soil in their mouths. A lovely song

about the way war hits you right in the heart.

Write about the silence here.

Yes.

Quebec City: A Quaint Get Away in French Canada

My university French professor used to plan a trip to Quebec City every year. He would rent a 15 passenger van and we would start the long 13 hour drive from Pennsylvania to Quebec. Who needs to go all the way to France when Quebec, New France, is right at your own back door? After all, as my professor liked to say, the Quebecois are more French than the French!
He was right. The Quebecois are extremely proud of their history and their French heritage. Even their stop signs say " Arrêt"? whereas in France they have adopted the English sign " Stop"?. Everywhere you go in Quebec City you feel like you are smack-dab in the middle of a quaint French City. Shopkeepers will greet you with " Bonjour"?, cafes serve the best crêpes, and cobble stone streets with well preserved examples of European architecture will have you feeling that you really are in France.
Old Quebec, known in French as Vieux Quebec, is divided into two sections: Haute Ville and Basse Ville. The city's dominating landmark, Chateau Frontenac, is the beacon of Haute Ville. It is situated high above the rest of the city and provides a great view over the St. Lawrence River. The Chateau now serves as a deluxe hotel and rooms for the night will cost you a pretty penny.
To descend from Haute Ville to Basse Ville you can brave the very steep stairs leading straight down the hillside. These stairs are known as " L'Escalier Casse-cou"?, or break-neck stairs. If you aren't feeling as adventurous you can opt to take the " Funiculaire"? to the bottom, or back up, for a small fee. Basse Ville is filled with quaint shopping streets, cafes, French restaurants, and my favorite, La Musee de la Civilization. The museum holds a number of interesting exhibits highlighting the development of mankind and other sociologic exhibits. The museum also has a section on Quebec history which might be of interest to you.
If you are interested in Quebec history, check out the " Plains of Abraham Battlefield Park"? which is located outside the old city wall. The battlefield is the spot where the British took control of Quebec from the French in 1759. I have nothing against visiting battlefields but remembering my visit to the Plains of Abraham gives me flashbacks of near frostbite in my toes. See, my professor always arranged our yearly trip to Quebec during the winter because hotels rates are lower in the off-season. Well little did I expect that I would be marching around a battle field in two feet of snow.
Luckily Quebec has excellent cafes and pubs to defrost in. I advise visiting in the springtime and leave ample time to simply walk around and explore the city. There are unique shops and great French restaurants on every street which you will only discover by stumbling upon them. So pull out those rusty phrases you learned in high school French class and plan your trip to Vieux Quebec.
Lyndsey writes for <a href="?http://www.briefcasesdirect.com/"?>briefcases</a>, a website that offers luxury briefcases direct from the manufacturer. Lyndsey currently resides and writes from Kolkata, India.

Quebec City, Canada
Quebec City (photo: JoeBreuer, Pixabay)

My university French professor used to plan a trip to Quebec City every year.

He would rent a 15 passenger van and we would start the long 13-hour drive from Pennsylvania to Quebec.

Who needs to go all the way to France when Quebec, New France, is right at your own back door?

After all, as my professor liked to say, the Quebecois are more French than the French!

He was right. The Quebecois are extremely proud of their history and their French heritage. Even their stop signs say "Arrat" whereas in France they have adopted the English sign "Stop."

Everywhere you go in Quebec City, you feel like you are smack-dab in the middle of a quaint French city.

Shopkeepers will greet you with "Bonjour," cafes serve the best crepes, and cobblestone streets with well-preserved examples of European architecture will have you feeling that you really are in France.

Old Quebec, known in French as Vieux Quebec, is divided into two sections: Haute Ville and Basse Ville.

The city's dominating landmark, Chateau Frontenac, is the beacon of Haute Ville.

It is situated high above the rest of the city and provides a great view over the St. Lawrence River.

The Chateau now serves as a deluxe hotel and rooms for the night will cost you a pretty penny.

To descend from Haute Ville to Basse Ville you can brave the very steep stairs leading straight down the hillside.

These stairs are known as "L'Escalier Casse-cou", or break-neck stairs.

If you aren't feeling as adventurous, you can opt to take the "Funiculaire" to the bottom, or back up, for a small fee.

Basse Ville is filled with quaint shopping streets, cafes, French restaurants, and my favorite, La Musee de la Civilization.

The museum holds a number of interesting exhibits highlighting the development of mankind and other sociologic exhibits.

The museum also has a section on Quebec history which might be of interest to you.

If you are interested in Quebec history, check out the "Plains of Abraham Battlefield Park" which is located outside the old city wall.

The battlefield is the spot where the British took control of Quebec from the French in 1759.

I have nothing against visiting battlefields, but remembering my visit to the Plains of Abraham gives me flashbacks of near frostbite on my toes.

See, my professor always arranged our yearly trip to Quebec during the winter because hotels rates are lower in the off-season.

Well little did I expect that I would be marching around a battlefield in two feet of snow.

Luckily, Quebec has excellent cafes and pubs to defrost in.

I advise visiting in the springtime and leave ample time to simply walk around and explore the city.

There are unique shops and great French restaurants on every street, which you will only discover by stumbling upon them.

So pull out those rusty phrases you learned in high school French class and plan your trip to Vieux Quebec.

____

Lyndsey writes for Briefcases, a website that offers luxury briefcases direct from the manufacturer. Lyndsey currently resides and writes from Kolkata, India.

Friday Flashback - Bangkok

Funny face - Thai Royal Palace, Bangkok
Funny face - Thai Royal Palace, Bangkok

After 3 months in Nepal and India, Bangkok mine as well have been New York City to me.  Culture shock hit me hard.

The air-conditioning made 7-11's feel like blast freezers. Delicious Australian cookies known as Tim Tam's were easily available again (just like in Bali).  Long-flowing saris gave way to bare-as-much-skin-as-possible clothing.  The beer drinking began anew, as did my pilgrimage to "The Beach."

Superstar Service on THAI Airways

Touchdown in Bangkok

Culture Shock

The Grand Palace and the Emerald Buddha Temple

Wat Pho's Reclining Buddha

Dare #9 - Completed - Motorcycle Mayhem

Chatuchak Weekend Market and Siam Paragon (my first VIP movie theater)

Dare #12 - Completed - Vindaloo Consumption

Next in the series, I recap my time on the beautiful island of Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand.

How To Survive Driving In Ireland

If I've said it once, I've said it one thousand times: I love my fiance more than words express. He puts up with me in the best of times and in the worst of times.

One could say I was born with less than the average person's patience. Mix that with a strong type-A personality, and you have a downright annoying person to ride in a car with.

And ride in a car with me is exactly what that saint of a guy did. In fact, he rode for four days in a car with me in my opinion, one of the scariest places to take a road trip on Earth. Ireland.

That's right, Ireland. Land of small cars and even smaller roads. So, how did we survive the terrifying roads of the Emerald Isle?

An even better question would be, how did I not get ejected from the car after being a growly troll in the passenger seat day after day? The answer is simple: GPS, Guinness, and potty breaks.

These three simple things made the two of us sane enough to endure a massive trek across Ireland. Endure is perhaps not the best choice of words. We LOVED Ireland. It was beautiful, greener than I had ever expected, and full of some of the nicest people we encountered in Europe.

On the other hand, the roads were enough to throw Andy and me into an unexplainable fit of rage and terror. Ok, let's be honest. I had more fits than Andy ever did.

Shelly Getting Out of the Yaris
Shelly

Andy did most of the driving while we were on our Irish adventure. We had the pleasure of riding across Ireland in a Toyota Yaris. I referred to the little gem as the devil incarnate.

The Yaris resembled that of a pregnant roller skate and had it not been for our GPS, we probably would have driven that thing right off a cliff. If you plan to drive through Ireland, I HIGHLY recommend a GPS. It definitely saved our relationship and our butts from getting lost multiple times.

Granted, the GPS would get a mind of its own occasionally and drive us down some interesting road combinations. Sometimes, we would both end up screaming, fearing that we would get the car stuck or come across a pub that we would decide to stop at.

The pubs bring me to my second point, Guinness. Had it not been for our multiple stops at pubs to have a beer, I don't think I would have been calm enough to stay in the car. No, I am not encouraging everyone to go drink!!

A half-hour stop and a beer helped calm me down while cruising in our little death trap. The stop was what I needed, and the beer had the added benefit of keeping me from crawling up the windows for twenty minutes after we started driving again.

Ok, so potty breaks were just a massive scam for me to get out of the car when I was terrified. I never honestly had to go, but we almost always stopped at a pub, which led to more socializing with the locals, something I truly enjoyed doing.

We met many interesting individuals, and at least we dressed appropriately. Most people thought we were from Ireland and did not see us as tourists, which helped us blend in.

After we had made it through Ireland unscathed, we showed up at the car rental parking lot for them to inspect the Yaris. In the United States, most rental companies will go over the car with a fine-toothed comb.

Well, it is hard to inspect a car when on the sheet there are multiple circles to show dents. Andy noticed the sheet the inspector was looking at, and it had at least 20 circles all over the car to show dents and scratches.

If anything had been damaged due to scraping against shrubs or anything, there was no way to tell what was new or old. Even though you cannot tell, it is well worth the money to purchase full coverage on your car in Ireland.

With all the dents, bumps in the road, and crazy driving, the Yaris stayed intact long enough for us to make it safely through the country of Ireland.

Below is a quick video of one of the close calls in Ireland. Enjoy.

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Dave at Ahu Ko Te Riku on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile.

Hi, I'm Dave

Editor in Chief

I've been writing about adventure travel on Go Backpacking since 2007. I've visited 68 countries.

Read more about Dave.

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