Blog - Go Backpacking

Daily Life In Boudha

The second morning I awoke in Boudha, I satisfied my curiosity about the ringing bells at 5:30am. I put on some warm clothes and stepped outside of the guest house to see people walking down the alleys toward the stupa, counting their prostrations on malas (prayer beads) hanging from their hands. I joined the procession and walked around the stupa a few times.

Since most tourists tend to spend only an hour or two around the stupa, my plan to have it all to myself paid off! One or two other westerners were up at sunrise, however the crowd was mostly Tibetans in their traditional clothes, spinning hand held prayer wheels, counting prayers, and chatting with one and other. It looked and felt like what I always imagined of Tibet.

After earning some good karma, I stepped into the courtyard of the monastery which runs my guest house. Once inside, a monk indicated I could enter the gompa. The morning puja was in session, and I quietly took a seat in a back corner so I could listen to the prayers. Every ten minutes, cymbals would crash, small kids would blow through giant white shells (bigger than their heads), and two massive drums were banged. When the instruments were used, I closed my eyes and it felt like I could've been in a movie scene from Kundun, or in some old monastery on the Tibetan Plateau. Opening my eyes and recognizing I was in a monastery in Nepal suited me fine!

I had to run a few errands from Boudha which meant some extra cab fares, however being able to return to the Tibetan community at the end of each day was well worth the extra cost. I picked up my backpack from Thamel, organized my Indian Visa, and bargained for a new Canon Digital IXUS 860 IS from a shop on New Road (the electronics hub of Kathmandu).

During my first few days in Boudha, I enjoyed fantastic stupa views from the tourist restaurants that occupied the rooftops.

I even caught a great sunset with my new camera over the Kathmandu Valley one night.

How To Obtain An Indian Visa In Kathmandu

Sunday -

Receive advice to get to the Indian Embassy early.

Monday -

8:45am - Arrive at Indian Embassy 45 minutes prior to opening.
Take a number - 79 to be specific.
Realize you may not be able to drop off your Telex form today (cutoff is 12pm).
Security guy suggests I return at 8pm to get a lower number for the next morning.
Later that night, enjoy dinner with Natalie, Sara, and their friend Cameron and skip the extra visit to the Embassy.

Tuesday -

6:30am - Arrive at Indian Embassy 3 hours prior to opening.
Take a number - 36
Realize the earlier numbers all went to people who came the night before.
Chat with one of the English guys I met in Sinuwa on the Annapurna trek, eat breakfast, waste time.
9:15am - Queue is formed outside Embassy gate, ten people are allowed in at a time.
Pass through security check, fill out Telex form, and stand in right queue at Visa/Telex window. Left queue is for people who dropped off their Telex forms three days prior.
11am - Drop off Telex form, pay small deposit, and leave.

Thursday -

7:30pm - Take taxi to Indian Embassy to pick up lower number.
Arrive at same time as two English girls I met Tuesday in line.
Obtain number 26, with understanding that we're each to provide a small "gift" the next day.

Friday -

8:30am - Having secured a lower number the night before, I'm able to arrive later in the morning.
9:15am - Queue up for entry to Embassy, pass security, line up in left hand queue at Visa window.
10:30am - Confirm I was cleared for a new Visa, drop off Visa application and passport, and pay full fee.
3:30pm - After eating lunch, booking a flight to eastern Nepal for the travel day to India on Sunday, and spending time on the internet in Thamel, return to cafe outside Embassy.
4pm - No numbers this time, we all pass through security and wait outside the Visa window for 20 minutes before the guy starts handing out passports. As names are called, people smile and it feels like you've won a prize (and you deserve one after patiently going through the whole process).
5pm - Return to Boudha victorious!

Other Tips -

Be sure to bring a black pen, one passport photo on the day you drop off your passport, sufficient cash, and a good sense of humor!

First Hand Account Of China's Earthquake

" The mountain blew up right in front of us. There were tremors every few minutes. I will never forget the thunderous echo of those boulders, as big as two-story buildings, crashing down the mountain and into the gorge. We saw a small bridge that crossed the gorge and led to a small hotel with an open field in front of it. We reluctantly crossed it and our way to the wide grassy area in front of the hotel."? --- The Ace of Diamonds: Surviving the Sichuan Earthquake on a Daoist Mountain

A few days after the initial report of a big earthquake in Sichuan, I e-mailed my friend Charlie with whom I stayed in Chengdu for two weeks this past March. He has written a harrowing account of his experience on the side of a crumbling mountain. Thankfully, he and his friends escaped without injury.

Hinduism's Holy Pashupatinath Temple

After my first peaceful night in Boudha (the area with the stupa), I awoke early to the the sounds of the nearby monastery's morning puja (prayers). I put my curiosity on hold and stayed in bed.

Later in the morning, I caught a cab south to my 5th World Heritage Site in the Kathmandu Valley, Pashupatinath Temple. The temple grounds and river are holy territory for Hindus, and I had been told it was akin to a small scale version of Varanasi in India. Only Hindus can enter the temple, so I was left to walk around the exterior grounds, taking in more Kama Sutra carvings and the cremations going on right before my eyes.

A smooth-operating tour guide started to take me around, and after a few minutes I realized what was happening, however because he said I could pay whatever I felt was appropriate at the end, I continued with him. Since I had obtained rates at the Durbar Squares, I had a sense of what the tour would be worth ($5-10 max). The tour guide spoke quickly, but he was informative and told me where I could take photos.

I'm not sure if it's appropriate to post the photo of the cremations in progress, however feel free to comment one way or the other. The atmosphere was rather somber, and you couldn't help but be respectful as people's loved ones were unfurled on the pyres.

After the tour wrapped up, I handed the guide about $6. He was anything but grateful, insisting that students often pay several thousand rupees. In other words, he was asking for $20-30 which was laughable. I tried to present my logical argument that I wouldn't have taken the tour if he had told me what he expected up front, however he didn't relent. I handed him 500 rupees, or about $8, and walked away.

The whole situation felt a bit awkward as it took place in the central courtyard of an old folks home. Sadly, the old folks sitting around did not have anyone else to care for them, and were awaiting their maker next to the site of their eventual cremation.

Blissful Boudhanath Stupa

After a few nights at the historic Kathmandu Guest House in the heart of Thamel (Kathmandu), I was ready to escape the live cover bands and honking taxis for some peace and quiet.

I put my main pack in storage and grabbed a taxi east toward Boudhanath Stupa, an important site for both Buddhists and Hindus.

Upon catching my first glimpse of those all-seeing Buddha eyes, I knew I was going to spend my last few nights in Nepal nearby.

From sunrise to sunset, Nepalis, Tibetans, tourists and all circumambulate the stupa in a clockwise direction.

There is a palpable sense of energy created by so many people moving together.

One hundred eight prayer wheels are ensconced in the outer wall.

I booked a room at the PRK Guest House, which is run by the nearby monastery.

My room overlooked their garden and had a view of the courtyard of a school.

For half the price of the Kathmandu Guest House ($6/night), I had a better-decorated room with a fantastic view and a sparkling clean bathroom. I was delighted.

The stupa is surrounded by monasteries, restaurants, Tibetan souvenir shops and thangka schools which have grown up around it.

Despite the occasional motorbike, it is a very tranquil space for pedestrians to stroll around.

I met up with two girls from my rafting trip, Natalie (Canada) and Sara (Australia), around 4 pm.

One of the first places we went to was a monastery immediately opposite the stupa.

A few monks took to us, and I received a blessing, and we all received khatas (a traditional scarf given to a lama or teacher who blesses it and returns it to the giver).

One monk, in particular, showed us a larger monastery nearby, and then a small orphanage he runs.

While we got the sense we were being kidnapped by the guy only to be asked for a donation, we all knew it was going toward a worthy cause.

Patan's Durbar Square Sans Camera

My first digital camera was a Christmas gift from my parents in 2006. I had been receiving compliments on the Canon PowerShot SD700 IS Digital Elph all along my trip, and had been very happy with the photo quality. I was a quick draw as Gela and others who spent any length of time with me could attest. Unfortunately, the camera started to go haywire toward the end of my trek. I took the opportunity to have it looked at via a camera shop in Thamel (tourist enclave in Kathmandu). There was no charge to investigate the problem and I was assured it'd be looked at by the best technician in the city (what a line!).

For a guy averaging 1,000 photos a month, sightseeing without a camera is tantamount to torture. I figured Patan's Durbar Square would be nothing to write home about, and therefore a great place to go without a camera.

I was wrong!

Patan is a few kilometers south of Kathmandu, and home to the oldest pagodas of the three big Durbar Squares. Time after time, I find myself in awe at the sights in Nepal. The woordworking on the pagodas seemed a clear step above those of the ones in Kathmandu, and I started to become aware of the Kama Sutra scenes etched into the lower ends of the wooden brackets. If the normal stuff didn't float your boat, there was a carving of a woman with a horse!

I ate lunch in the palace restaurant and toured Patan's museum (also within a renovated section of the palace), which was filled with Buddhist and Hindu artwork. The collection on display was fairly small, however the experience of walking through the little doorways and peering out the windows toward the square and palace courtyard were well worth the cost of entry.

Touring Swayambhunath Stupa

From the restaurant rooftop in Durbar Square, I could see Swayambhunath Stupa as it was up on a hill to the west. I grabbed a taxi for yet another kamikaze ride through narrow streets filled with buzzing motorcycles and pedestrians.

For most of my taxi rides around the city and valley, I've paid about 150-200 rupees ($2-3), which is probably 30% more than the locals. I've found the best strategy for landing a lower rate is to ask Nepali shopkeepers for their estimation, be confident with your negotiation, and make an agreement before getting in the taxi (I learned that last one in Bali).

Sometimes I hit the target, and sometimes I can't be bothered about an extra dollar. There's a fuel shortage right now and the taxi drivers are keen to point out the gas lines as you drive around. At any rate, I've always gotten where I've needed to go, alive.

To climb up the monkey temple, you walk past a steady stream of stupas and religious statues. Where there are tourists, there are locals selling souvenirs. It was a perfect gauntlet. As I approached the top, a few teenagers started chatting with me which is always a sign that you're about to solicited for money, food, or a tour. I was up front with them about not giving any money even if they walked around with me. I don't think they got the message, as an hour passed with them slowly guiding me around before they asked for cash. Unlike the adult tour guides, they were rather relaxed and low key, so I gave them $1.50 for their time.

There was much more to the hilltop then I expected - a monastery, trees draped with prayer flags, restaurants, souvenir shops, and a fantastic view of the Kathmandu Valley. In addition to a bunch of monkeys running around, I saw a pair of snakes about two meters long slither through some dry grass on the way down to Buddha Park (a new park of Buddha statues...duh!).

Kathmandu's Durbar Square

Rarely am I keen to follow the city walking tours in the Lonely Planet guides, however I had a feeling the one from Thamel to Durbar Square in Kathmandu would be interesting.

As I left the tourist area, I soon found myself passing Buddhist monasteries, stupas, and Hindu temples left and right. Walking through the older part of the city, you felt as though little had changed over the centuries. Daily life was on display, up close and personal, whether it was the butchering of goats, sale of vegetables, or praying of Hindus.

Every now and then I'd spot a tourist having as much trouble taking photos as me. There was simply too much going on...to many amazing shots. Eventually, I just gave up. It didn't help that my camera had been having technical problems since the end of my trek, making quick shots more difficult.

After about an hour of winding my way south, I arrived at Durbar Square. Durbar means palace so there are actually several Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley. Sometimes it pays to be completely unaware of the sights you're going to see because it means you leave yourself open to be completely surprised (usually in a good way, though not always).

I studied a bit of architecture in college, though mostly Medieval and Modern. I was blown away by the pagodas in the square - their shapes, intricate woodwork, everything! After saying "no" to about five guys who wanted to be my guide, I sought food on a rooftop restaurant overlooking the square. The midday sun was intense, so I had some fruit with yogurt (known as curd over here).

Then it was off to Swayambhunath Stupa (aka the monkey temple) because in the Kathmandu Valley, one World Heritage Site per day is child's play!

Thangka Shopping

Upon my return to Kathmandu, I dedicated a full day to thangka shopping. Thangkas are traditional Tibetan Buddhist paintings made on cloth. They are often framed with a brocade and depict one of five different topics: Deities (like Buddha, Tara, etc.), Life of Buddha, Wheel of Life, and two types of Mandalas. I've wanted one for years, however at the one Himalayan store in Washington, DC I found, they were around $500. The selection was also quite limited.

Thangka shops and schools are as numerous in Kathmandu as fake t-shirt shops are in Bali. If I had any hope of making a decision by day's end, I needed to narrow the field by picking a subject. I went with the Wheel of Life which depicts the psychological states associated with an unenlightened mind. All thangkas are steeped in religious symbolism and while I learned quite a bit during my shopping experience about the iconography, I'm not even going to attempt to explain it.

After looking at enough thangkas, you learn what to look for when determining quality and value (even before you ask the price). The fineness of lines, harmony of colors, and use of 24k gold are big differentiators. In general, the student quality is the lowest, followed by a middle ground, and lastly the "master" quality. Once I found the finest quality thangka of the day, I could hardly bear to look at the lesser ones in other shops (even if they were cheaper).

So I negotiated a 30% discount, and still spent almost three times the initial figure I had in my head. Money seemed to matter a little less when I reflected on my opportunity to own a piece of art so beautiful, let alone the three months it took to create it. I chose the color and design of the brocading and picked it up a few days later. I only had a quick glimpse of the framed painting before it was rolled up and packed in a large cardboard cylinder for shipment home.

Dares, Polls, And India

Dares

I know it has been awhile since I completed a dare, however they are always in the back of my mind. To recap what is outstanding:

For $100, my friend Bob wants me to get a photo with a topless girl.
For $50, get my photo taken with a ladyboy in Thailand.
For $30, Tim wants me to eat a scorpion.
For $25, Dan wants me to ride a motorcycle in an obscene amount of traffic.
For $200, my brother Jon wants me to get a tattoo.

It's quite possible that I can make a run at all of these once I arrive in Thailand come June! Keep 'em coming. Every time I talk about the dares, the eyes of other backpackers seem to light up. By far, the most discussed (and profitable) dare has been the one about the woman's arm around my shoulder.
Polls

Thank you to everyone who votes in the polls I set up in the right sidebar. I look at the results every few days to see what you think I should be doing.

In regard to the activity I should do after trekking, you now know I went with paragliding and rafting. By the time I got back to Kathmandu, base of Everest scenic flights, I was ready to stop big expenditures on activities and focus on local sights and souvenir-buying. Besides, I got a great view of Everest from my flight to Nepal!

As for your desire to see me head to India via bus, I know it'd be an adventure, however based on the stories I've heard, I'm taking a plane. No need to spend 2 days in transit and risk theft, vomiting, and bladder discomfort when I can get a 1-hour flight for about $150.

India

Once I get a new 3-month visa for India in Kathmandu, I'll immediately fly to Varanasi, India. A guy who just came from there said it was running about 105 degrees a day, so I expect to hang around just long enough to tour the ghats (to satisfy my morbid curiosity about public cremations) and take a cruise on the Ganges.

From Varanasi, I intend to take a train west to Agrah to see the Taj Mahal, before heading north to Delhi for a few days. From Delhi, I'll head further north to Rishikesh, ground zero for yoga and meditation in India (so I hear). Perhaps I'll join an ashram for a few days and try to learn some new yoga poses. And then it is up to Dharamsala, and the slightly higher McLeod Ganj, which is home to the Tibetan government in exile and His Holiness The Dalai Lama. Depending on how I'm feeling, the weather, and money, I may push further north to Manali. And if I'm really up for an adventure, bus it up to Leh (elev. 3,500 meters / 11,500 feet) near the Indian Himalaya!

Leaving Pokhara For Kathmandu

Two days after returning from the rafting trip, I boarded a tourist bus back to Kathmandu. After 3.5 weeks, and countless adventures, it felt right to leave. The mountain views I once enjoyed each morning had disappeared in a thick haze which had descended on the valley in mid-April. I felt bad for the people who visited Pokhara and never got those amazing views.

The views were clearer on the return ride to Kathmandu, so I was able to enjoy the same scenery almost as though it was new. As occurred when leaving Kathmandu, we hit traffic upon returning to the city outskirts. An extra hour or more was added as we sat still in the hot bus.

After about 9 hours in transit, I paid too much for a taxi to the heart of Thamel, where I found a $4/night room at the district's epicenter of bars and restaurants. I was quickly reminded of the incessant honking, motorbikes, bicycle rickshaws, and general hassle and dirt I had been so happy to escape a month earlier.

Rafting Nepal's Kali Gandaki River

I was still having trouble bringing myself to leave Pokhara so I signed up for a 3-day/2-night rafting trip through Paddle Nepal/Ultimate Descents. I chose a trip on one of Nepal's holiest rivers, the Kali Gandaki. It offered class III and IV rapids, so I knew it'd be exciting without scaring the hell out of me. I'd been rafting twice before in West Virginia (remember Michele?) and Costa Rica, however both had been day trips. Taking a 3-day trip meant one full day on the river without bus rides.

The group consisted of 13 customers and 5 guides. There was a guide for each of the two rafts, the oar boat (which carried the heavy equipment), and two safety kayaks. Amongst the customers, the USA was represented well with 5 people. Australia offered 3 people, Holland and England 2 people each, and Canada 1 person.

We were on the bus for about 2.5 hours the first day. We unloaded it by the river, and lunch was prepared. Once on the water, we almost immediately had to get off the rafts as they were pulled through a class V rapid that recently overturned a raft, causing one fatality. After passing on "Little Brother" we hit our biggest rapid of the trip, class IV "Big Brother." All I can remember was watching the left side of my raft head straight toward a giant boulder. We bounced off of it safely and only had another hour or so on the river before we arrived at our campsite for the night.

I paired up with Richard from Australia, and we shared a tent which was good because I can't remember the last time I had to set one up. He was one of the first people I'd met in Nepal who had done a more remote camping trek (not one of the big 3 - Annapurna Circuit, Sanctuary, and Everest Base Camp). He had also summited a 7,000 meter peak in South America!

In the evening, we all got to know one and other. Everyone was drinking beer and rum punch except me, as I had decided to take a few nights off. The guides had us playing silly games, and a good time was had by all. The stars were out and it felt great to sleep in a tent by the river.

The next morning we were up by 7am, eating by 8am, and on the river by 9am. We hit our second biggest rapid of the trip within the first 10 minutes (a class III). I was disappointed to learn there would be no more of that size (partly due to the low water level this time of year). All the same, I was in the front of the raft for most of day two so I was soaked regularly.

On the second night, we skipped the games and spent the time after dinner talking to one and other around a campfire. The stars were out again, and our guides even helped a groom and best man to cross the river as they were late for their own wedding (we could see and hear the party up on a nearby ridge).

Our third day was especially quiet. The first 30 minutes had small rapids (class II+), followed by about two hours (9 km) of near still water (due to our approach of a dam). The lack of rapids allowed for a few water fights between our boats, and another group of rafters, as well as a chance to guide the rafts. All along the trip we passed dead bodies buried under stones along the sides of the river. On the last day we literally passed a cremation in progress, a sight I am sure to see up close and personal once I reach Varanasi, India.

We helped carry the gear up to our awaiting bus, ate lunch, and hit the road for the 5-hour bus ride back to Pokhara. It was a ride full of hairpin turns along mountain cliffs, yet I felt fairly comfortable the whole way. In the evening, we went to dinner with our guides at The Love Shack, and followed it up with drinks at The Busy Bee.

Saying Goodbye...Again

New relationships seem to break apart as quickly as they form. Lately, it feels like I've been saying goodbye a lot. Luckily, quite a few of the people are headed toward northern India at the same time as me so there's a possibility we'll meet up again. However small the chances, we all seem to enjoy the idea when it comes time to part ways.

On our last night together, Marie, Steven, Kevin, Stefan (Switz), Tatiana (Russia/US) and I met for dinner at the Hungry Feel restaurant. The service was often remarkably slow there, yet we were rarely in a rush. The power outage left us eating by candlelight as usual, which turns a rough looking place into something a little more intimate.

After dinner, we said goodbye. The next morning Marie was to start trekking the Annapurna Circuit, Steven was taking a bus to Kathmandu to begin a 10-day residential Buddhism course at Kopan Monastery, Kevin was to take a side trip near Pokhara, Stefan was hitting a river as part of a 4-day kayaking clinic, and I was about to embark on a 3-day whitewater rafting trip down the holy Kali Gandaki.

Paddling Phewa Lake

One of the luxuries of traveling alone for an extended time is your ability to do whatever you want, whenever. It is the feeling of absolute freedom I worked so hard to enjoy. So once the meditation course wrapped up, I decided to stick around Pokhara a little longer to spend time with some of the cool people I met. Kevin (Swiss), Steven, Marie (both English), and I hired a paddle boat for a day on Phewa Lake.

The square contraption set on two pontoons looked dodgy but performed quite well. We took turns on the pedals, steering with a metal rudder. We motored across the lake and picked up a few beers on the opposite end, then ducked into an area where some water buffalo were bathing. We took our first swim there, though I was a bit apprehensive about the state of the water near such large beasts.

We continued to cruise toward the north end of the lake, enjoying the views and each other's company. Conversations ranged from the silly to serious, personal to reflections on what we learned in our Buddhist meditation course.

We went for swims on several occasions, working on either dives or our forward flips. I think I landed 2 of my 5 flips properly, so it was no surprise I had a sore back the next day!

After about 6 hours on the lake, we came ashore and grabbed an early dinner together. Worn out by the heat and Everest beers (which continue to kick my butt), I slept a solid 11 hours.

My 3-Day Tibetan Buddhist Meditation Course

A week to the day after completing my trek, I walked to the Ganden Yiga Chozin Buddhist Meditation Center in the northern section of Pokhara's Lakeside district.

I wanted to find out about the 3-day meditation course they offered. My timing couldn't have been better, as it was a weekend course set to start in 30 minutes.

The residential course is taught by an American monk, Venerable Losang Yeshe.

Participants spend at least Friday, Saturday, and Sunday in dorms, however since the class was abnormally large (13 people), there wasn't a dorm available for me.

While Friday and Monday were half days, they followed the same schedule as our two full days.

We had a 30-minute meditation at 6:30am, followed by breakfast, Hatha yoga, a teaching, lunch, group discussion, 2nd meditation, dinner, and 3rd meditation at 7:30pm.

After our evening meditation, we were to remain silent until the completion of the following morning's meditation.

We were to refrain from listening to music and using the internet as well.

This was a bit harder for me since I had to walk back to the busier part of town each evening.

All of our meals were vegetarian...and quite tasty!

Overall, I enjoyed the meditations (it's been awhile). It felt really cool to do our evening meditation by candlelight due to the power outages.

I kept my eyes slightly open for them so I could enjoy the environment inside the gompa.

The introductory teachings were a good refresher, plus I liked watching others grapple with concepts like reincarnation and karma, and spending time with a great international crowd open to new ideas.

Switzerland, Holland, Israel, England, and the USA were represented.

On the last day, a bunch of us went out to dinner at the Boomerang restaurant (while their nightly cultural song and dance performance occurred) and drinks at the ever-popular Busy Bee (cover bands nightly).

I continued to spend time with several of the people I met through the class over the following week.

Morning Hike To The World Peace Pagoda

When I first arrived in Pokhara, I distinctly remember looking up at the World Peace Pagoda and thinking that it would be a strenuous hike to get up to it (despite the guide book stating it only takes an hour). I decided to put the climb off until after my trek.

What a difference a 10-day trek can make for your perspective. On a fairly clear morning, I stepped out for a walk along the lake around sunrise. I ended up hiring a rowboat and crossing the lake, ascending the 300 meters or so to the World Peace Pagoda. As I was plodding up the steps alone, I felt a sense of pride in having greatly expanded my personal comfort zone for outdoor adventures.

Upon reaching the pagoda, the view of the Annapurna range (and to a lesser extent, Dhaulagiri) was stunning. There was some haze, however you could clearly recognize all of the peaks. I found it amazing how much of the mountain range you could see by simply crossing to the other side of the lake, let alone climbing up a few hundred meters. On a perfectly clear morning, the view would easily rival that which we had from Poon Hill.

After poking around the pagoda, and chatting with the few other tourists up there so early, I realized I wasn't ready to go back down. I walked a few minutes along the ridge and grabbed breakfast from a small restaurant. An older Canadian woman and her guide sat at the adjacent table for a snack and we chatted for a bit. She had completed a short trek in the region and was heading to eastern India and Bhutan with an organized tour.

It was up on the ridge that I decided it would be a shame to bypass India for fear of how crazy it will be. Her advice was to go with the flow. My perspective suddenly changed, and I soon found myself wanting to take on the challenge of traveling through India (if only for a few weeks in the relatively cooler, Buddhist north of the country).

After a quick descent back to the lake, I took a leisurely row back to central Lakeside, managing to capture something of a snow-covered mountain reflection in the still waters.

I Want To Fly Like An Eagle

I allowed myself a few days to recover from the trek, despite having felt far more sore the day after a dodgeball tournament then tramping around in the mountains. I gave up my Super Deluxe room at the Snowland Hotel ($25/night, complete with balcony overlooking the lake), for a more affordable room with bath at the Yeti Guest House ($6/night).

Pokhara, Nepal is a mecca for paragliders and I'd noticed them on a daily basis since arriving. It cost $95 USD for a 30-minute flight over the valley. I signed up for a morning group, though by the time we had taken the 30-minute jeep ride up Sarangkot mountain, clouds had descended over most of the peaks behind us. Instead, we had breathtaking views of the green valley, Lake Phewa, and the city.

After reaching the pinnacle of physical fright in my life with the canyon swing in Queenstown, paragliding seemed like a walk in the park. All the pilots were of different nationalities. I was paired with a French guy. We made a little small talk, as did all the pairs, however we were soon just sitting around watching everyone take off before us. Last to launch, I received the bare minimum of instructions, and was soon running down the edge of the mountain until we took flight.

Himalayan eagles soared around us as we caught the thermals up and made swooping turns to the left and right going down. It took a few minutes to feel comfortable in the seated position, with nothing below you but the terraced farmland. At least with skydiving you know you're going straight down. Paragliding is all about staying aloft. I can't imagine a sensation closer to flying then being up there with the birds. It was fantastic.

Everyone is encouraged to take photos, so when I managed to get my camera out and start taking some, I lost track of shifting my weight with the pilot to help with the turns. He made a sarcastic remark about me not helping him out much so I apologized (given my life was in his hands) and put the camera away.

As we prepared to land I received the simple instructions for what to do - stand up and start running. And it was as easy as it sounds.

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek: A 10-Day Adventure

Never Ending Peace And Love

Perspectives from a first-time trekker on the Annapurna Sanctuary trek in the Himalaya of Nepal.

The Scenery

Hopefully, the photos I've posted speak volumes about the scenery. Words hardly do it justice, so I'm not going to try too hard.

Green forest valleys gave way to snow-covered mountains of the highest caliber.

Waking each morning to new and stunning views of the mountains with perfect blue skies in the background hardly felt real. It took me days to realize I was in the midst of such an experience.

Beautiful rhododendron flowers paint the sides of mountains in red and pink. Forests seem magical...rivers powerful...stone steps never-ending.

The smallest of flowers growing between the stone steps were as beautiful as the larger-than-life mountain views.

Watching the sunrise over the Annapurna range from Poon Hill was akin to walking into St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican City for the first time - a spiritual, awe-inspiring experience for even the non-spiritual among us.

People

The locals were warm and friendly, which continues to be a reason I enjoy spending time in Nepal.

Gela was an all-star trekking partner who indulged my desire to take silly photos all the time. The other trekkers met along the way were also cool.

Our guide, Mohan, worked out well. At any given time, he was a masseuse, singer, dancer, magician, mathematician, comedian, and doctor.

Our porter, Nima, worked hard, kept a watchful eye on me when I needed it, and made the experience extra fun (especially toward the end when he'd enter the dining room after a few drinks).

Nepali boy at Himalaya Guest House in Chomrong

Lessons Learned

Western companies and tour groups are not the way to go. Who wants to walk in such majestic places with a giant crowd of people no doubt talking to one and other all the time.

Support Nepali travel agencies, guides, and porters. It's cheaper and gives you a closer cultural connection.

It's as easy to hire a guide and porter for a trek in Nepal as it is to go skydiving in New Zealand. And there's no paperwork to sign!

Be clear about the goals of your trek when hiring a guide. If you want to be able to take your time, then stress that reaching base camp is not critical.

On the popular routes (Sanctuary, Circuit, Everest), guides and porters are not necessary. Take a book or a map; however, the maps and trails are so obvious it'd be hard to get lost.

If traveling during the high seasons, there are plenty of other trekkers to meet in advance or along the way, and guides are always around for you to ask questions (how far is it to X, what do you think the weather will be like today, etc.).

Prepare for all weather conditions. Ask, "what happens if I get caught in the rain my first day?"

At the same time, don't feel the need to bring an entire waterproof outfit, as you can usually do your walking in the mornings before it rains, and dry your wet clothes (or laundry) by the guest house stoves or heaters each night.

Layering is essential. I wore 1-4 layers at any given point in the day/night. It would be blisteringly hot under the sun at times, and cold in the evenings.

Invest in an authentic sleeping bag, and know how it performs in varying degrees of cold. I'd rather be too warm than too cold.

Gela was comfortable in her friend's real North Face -7 degree Celsius sleeping bag the whole time, even above 4,000 meters at ABC.

My fake -5 degree bag sucked balls, and I had to depend on guest house blankets and extra clothes (not a good feeling)

Take your time. Walk slow, watch your steps - up and down. Use a walking stick for added support and balance.
Greet the locals with "namaste."
Drink water and eat snacks (chocolate, granola, etc.) at your rest stops. Drink and eat more than you think you need.
Drink herbal teas and warm water.
If you feel worried about the remoteness, the steepness of trails, the weather, the altitude, RELAX and try to stay in the moment, focusing on the scenery and people around you.
Breathe evenly and deeply.
Find food you like and eat a lot of it (stay consistent, trekking isn't the time to experiment).
Establish an eating routine - eat the same meals each day (porridge w/apple for breakfast, pizza/noodles for lunch, dal bhat for dinner).
Adding sugar to tea, water, and food is an excellent way to consume extra calories and gain quick energy.

Nancy reviews photos with another trekker in Chomrong

Trekker Nationalities (met along the way)

German
Austrian
Dutch
English
Swiss
Estonian
French
Italian
Irish
Czech
American
Polish
Malaysian
South Korean
Israeli
Canadian
Thai
Japanese

Truly Final Thoughts

The difficulty of trekking in Nepal will depend on the person, route, time allowed, season, etc.

Having practically no outdoor experience myself, I found the first few days challenging - mentally and physically.

Yes, I tend to worry a bit in life, yet there's no getting around the fact that you quickly realize how much work it takes to travel 1...2...3 days into the mountains, let alone the logistics and effort of trying to get back out if you injure yourself, or mentally lose it.

Despite having hired a guide, I quickly found you need to look out for yourself first and foremost.

Still, on those days when I was waiting for Gela, I started to miss the routine of getting up early and hitting the trails.

We never stretched our legs before setting off - we just started walking. After a few days, your body seems to adapt.

There were as many trekkers in their 40's and 50's as there were in their 20's and 30's.

Despite all my concerns around Altitude Sickness, I never reached the heights where it became a significant concern.

Still, at certain heights, I was acutely aware of the extra effort and breathing it took to do seemingly easy things like going up and down a flight of stairs.

Usually, I was fine after a night's sleep, though. Guess I'll save my Diamox for the next mountain adventure.

Day 10 - When The Night Feels My Song

I'm on the rocky road, Heading down off the mountain slope, And as my steps echo louder than before. Another day is done, Say goodbye to the setting sun, See what I found, turn back to the ground just like before. And hey hey hey, hey hey hey (hey!), Hey beautiful day.

When the night feels my song, I'll be home, I'll be home.

Into the undergrowth, Twist and turn on a lonely road, In the twilight the day turns to night and I'm alone. And when the light has left, I'm not sure of my every step, I'll follow the wind that pushes me west back to my bed. -- Bedouin Soundclash

Friday, April 11, 2008

5:56 pm - Pokhara - Elev. 827 meters

In the morning, we ate and were off by 7:30am. We had a short descent, a few river crossings, and a lot of flat ground over three hours to Nayapul.

We had a bowl of noodles at a small restaurant around 10:30am, and caught a bus back to Pokhara. When the bus pulled up, it was packed. I was about to ask about a taxi when Gela's eyes lit up, as she realized we had the opportunity to ride on the roof. Before I knew it, our crew had climbed the back ladder in preparation for the two hour ride.

Initially, we had almost the whole roof to ourselves, however as the bus made it's way down the mountain, more and more locals jumped on for the ride. At our peak, I counted 18 people on the rooftop, let alone those sitting and standing inside the bus. The views were breathtaking - clearly we had the best seats, though not the most comfortable. The guy collecting money from new passengers worse a Brittney Spears t-shirt, and mine as well have been a Hollywood stunt man by the way he casually climbed around the outside of the moving bus.

Upon arrival back in Pokhara, Gela and I took some time to unwind, say goodbye to Mohan and Nima, return our rented equipment, and adjust to civilization again. Only a few hours after saying goodbye, we ran into Mohan and Nima again, inviting them out to dinner and drinks with us. The next day I said goodbye to Gela who was heading back home to Holland.

Estimated Distance = who cares...we did it!

Day 9 - Learning To Fly

Well I started out down a dirty road. Started out all alone. And the sun went down, as I cross the hill. And the town lit up, the world got still. I'm learning to fly, but I ain't got wings. Coming down is the hardest thing. -- Tom Petty

Thursday, April 10, 2008

4:07 pm - Hile - Elev. 1,430 meters

The 45-minute walk, 300-meter climb up Poon Hill (3,193 meters / 10,500 feet) was a bit tiring however I was motivated by the view so I made some speedy spurts along the way. Once on top, we saw a good sized crowd of people preparing to take photos. And we were doing the same thing. The sun slowly crept up over the mountains in the east, casting rays from below the mountains. It was quite a spectacle.

We could see all the big mountains like Annapurna South, Macchapucchre, Hiun Chuli, and ones I hadn't seen yet - Annapurna I (8,091 meters/ 11th highest peak in world) and the mighty Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters / 7th highest peak in world). Dhaulagiri was easier to film as the sun was farther away. We took lots of photos and returned to the guest house for breakfast.

We departed for Hile which was a day of descents - first through a bit more of the rhododendron forest, then after lunch, 3,280 wide stone steps in the sweltering hot sun. It was murder on our knees, and we all felt tired by the time we reached Hile.

Thankfully we had the guest house to ourself. It was on a farm with fantastic views of the terraces and valley.

We all ate Dal Bhat (rice and lentils) for dinner, and I drank an Everest (beer). We danced for awhile which was fun and silly. Gela and I spoke for awhile before turning the lights out. I really enjoyed it.

Back to the steps. I was cursing them. Hot...manure filled...endless stone stairs. The devil's work. *expletive*

We did pass a robust patch of marijuana though.

Estimated Distance = 12km

Day 8 - Waiting For The Sun

Deurali

At first flash of eden, we race down to the sea. Standing there on freedom's shore. Waiting for the sun. Can you feel it now that spring has come. And it's time to live in the scattered sun. Waiting for the sun. Waiting...

...This is the strangest life I've ever known. -- The Doors

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

3:20 pm - Ghorepani - Elev. 2,860 meters

In the morning, the view was foggy. We left Tadapani at 8am. I felt full of energy, while Gela had tape on her blistered feet and an Ace bandage around one knee. She felt and looked quite tired. It reminded me that I made the right decision, however it's still hard to let go of my chance to reach ABC. I guess it's not the end of the world.

As we walked to Deurali, we passed through gorgeous rhododendron forests with pink and white flowers. The forest felt magical - almost like "Lord of the Rings." After we descended the valley, we walked up along a stream past some cute goats and dogs.

We ate lunch in Deurali at an elevation of 3,000 meters! And we continued upward to about 3,200 meters at the top of the Deurali Pass (which was basically a forest along a mountain ridge). We stopped at a clearing and could see the lookout tower on Poon Hill on the mountain across from us.

We walked down to Ghorepani, reaching the "big" village just before it rained. The guest house is one of many, and the hall on the second floor is padded to ease the burden of blisters and walking after long treks. I took a lot of photos again, and will need to either delete some or be more judicious the last two days and nights.

The corn bread is really good. I bought Gela a small bracelet to help lift her spirits. I'll miss being able to spend time with her. She is always smiling and laughing.

The Evening

We had another nice night at Ghorepani, though we knocked off around 9pm as we had to wake at 4:45am to ascend Poon Hill for sunrise.

Estimated Distance = 6km

Day 7 - Living For Today

And if life is going by too fast...it's time for you to slow down...time for you to make it last...before you trip and slip...and you will miss this happy little stepping stone just before eternal bliss. -- Pennywise

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

4:28 pm - Tadapani - Elev. 2,630 meters

Around 5:45pm yesterday, Nima spotted Mohan and Gela coming down the hill to Chomrong. They looked very weary after the 11-hour walk down from Machhupuchhre Base Camp (MBC).

We were reunited after three days and got caught up. After dinner, I retired to bed around 8:30pm. I slept well. It was nice to share a room again.

In the morning, Gela and I talked further about our respective experiences and took our time eating and packing. We left 30 minutes late at 8:30am.

The walk to Tadapani meant descending a valley to our west, down to a river, and then climbing up another mountain through terraces of barely and the rhododendron forest. We reached Tadapani around 2pm, and as of yet, no rain. Nima thinks it'll just be a cold and cloudy night. In the morning, we walk to Ghorepani, before a sunrise at Poon Hill and our last night at Hile.

The Evening

I was very tired for the first few hours before dinner however it felt good to be at a table full of people. We ate and talked with a pair of Israeli trekkers, and a Canadian. Nima got drunk off the local liquor though we didn't see him actually drink it. Around 8:30pm, Mohan and another guide/porter started to sing Nepali songs for us. It was a very nice moment. Gela and I knocked off around 10pm. I slept well, only waking once or twice for a short time.

Estimated distance = 8 km

Day 6 - The 59th Street Bridge Song

Got no deeds to do, No promises to keep. I'm dappled and drowsy and ready to sleep. Let the morning time drop all it's petals on me. Life, I love you. All is groovy. -- Simon & Garfunkel

Monday, April 7, 2008

12:33 pm - Chomrong - Elev. 2,155 meters

I slept pretty well last night, though I think I had gas. Once I knocked off, I only awoke once due to a slight chill. Guessing asleep at 11am, up at 5:30am. The sky was clear blue, with the sun slowly rising in the east, illuminating Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli, Annapurna III, and Machhapuchhre.

After another breakfast of apple porridge, Nima and I headed down the mountain to the hot springs by the river below Jhinu danda which I skipped on the way up. It was relaxing with just the sound of the roaring river, and a sliver of Annapurna South to the north. We had the pool to ourself for 45 minutes.

The walk back up to Chomrong was tough. I took many breaks and went slow....slow. We basically climbed about 2,000 vertical feet in 1-1.5 hours. I've got a similar altitude to cover tomorrow over 5-6 hours. Gela is due back around 4-5pm I think. Hope she's good.

Estimated distance = 4 km

Day 5 - Beautiful Day

It's a beautiful day...The sky falls...And you feel like it's a beautiful day...Don't let it get away. -- U2

Sunday, April 6, 2008

8:18 am - Chomrong - Elev. 2,155 meters

I awoke around 1am last night, slightly chilly. I added my thin fleece and donned the warm wool mittens I had bought in Jhinu danda. I used the toilet, and unable to return to a slumber, began to hear a storm approach. Thunder roared through the valley, and with the electricity out, flashes of lightning were all that illuminated the landscape. Looking off the balcony - it was the darkest black I'd ever seen.

Stepping out of my room to try and record the sound meant ducking as a large bat spent the night flapping around up there. I tried to record the thunder on my camera. After the video session, I returned to bed, fell asleep and only awoke briefly at 5am. At 7:30am, I rose to continued rains - the first time we haven't had a crystal-clear blue sky to greet us.

It was nice to sleep in although Nima said it'll probably rain all day and the hot springs are too far a walk (3 hours return). That's OK, it feels warm and comfortable at the Himalayan View Guest House. I look up the valley from time to time and wonder how Gela is getting along - must be snowy at base camp.

After eating apple porridge and drinking a rich, tasty cup of milky hot chocolate, I feel good, stronger, more in the moment. I am looking forward to the second half of the trek at a slower pace.

8:05 pm

Potato curry and onion soup for dinner - a Twix for dessert. The storm clouds fully cleared out at sunset, exposing Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli, and at the very end of the light, Machhapuchhre. I knew this also meant a good night for stargazing. I clearly saw the Big Dipper over the valley to the northeast. Nima pointed out a shooting star to me. Amazing! Mohan and Gela are due back tomorrow afternoon. :)

Estimated Distance = 0km

Day 4 - Silent In The Morning

Silent in the morning...Suspended in the trees...Lunchtime comes you've found your voice...It brings me to my knees...The volume just increases...The resounding echoes grow...Till once again I bask in morning stillness, I love so. -- Phish

Saturday, April 5, 2008

1:33 pm - Chomrong - Elev. 2,155 meters

Storm clouds are rolling in even earlier today. Just heard the first crack of thunder. I'm at the Himalaya View Guest House and Restaurant for the next three days. Nima set a good slow pace for me and we reached Chomrong in a little over 1.5 hours. Plenty of photo/rest stops. I enjoyed it quite a bit.

I just looked at a bunch of photos from a Polish couples trip to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). It looked awesome, yet I think I always saw such a destination as a bragging right, not necessarily a personal goal. I'll have no shortage of great photos either.

Just ate about 5 pieces of tomato/onion/cheese pizza for lunch. Very good - Nima waited until after I was done to take me up on my offer to help me finish it.

The Evening

The rest of the day was spent in a relaxed way. Around 6pm I went down to the restaurant and had chicken curry with rice and mint tea for dinner. A small group was there - 2 South Africans and a Canadian (Nancy) whose voice I'd heard in the room next to me earlier. I enjoyed their company and didn't read much of "The Snow Leopard," a book Nancy also had with her. They had completed the Circuit trek and were on there way to ABC. I think time constraints create a greater challenge as you have less flexibility with regard to weather, feeling unwell, and just taking your time to enjoy the scenery.

On this fifth day, I am now much more comfortable with the rhythm of trekking, and am confident I could make it to ABC on my own schedule/pace.

Estimated Distance = 3km

Day 3 - Snow (Hey Oh)

The more I see the less I know...The more I like to let it go...hey oh...whoaaa. Deep beneath the cover of another perfect wonder...Where it's so white as snow. Privately divided by a world so undecided...And there's nowhere to go. -- Red Hot Chili Peppers

Friday, April 4, 2008

2:09 pm - Sinuwa - Elev. 2,360 meters

Gela and Mohan had told me out in the sun that worrying in my mind can translate into trouble with my body. I knew they were right but it would've been hard to explain how much I felt I had already overcome in just making it to Sinuwa. I tried anyways and I think they understood. As 1:30 pm rolled around, Mohan came to my room.

I was very direct in how I felt. Revitalized...though no longer concerned with reaching Annapurna Base Camp (ABC, Elev. 4,000 meters). I would require more time than Gela could afford. As it turns out, 10 days is too quick for me. Later, Nima said I could make it in 12-13 days and I felt reassured by his confidence in me. And the same can be said for Gela who said I was no less athletic than any of the other trekkers around me (young and old). I took her words to heart yet as I lay in bed talking to Mohan, knew my mind was made up. If I continued, I'd risk further slowdowns in more remote elevations, and likely keep Gela from a chance to reach ABC. And for me and her, I made the right decision to stay put. I wanted to have fun on the trek, and instead I felt as though I kept learning hard lessons. And the Himalaya - highest mountain range in the world - is not the place to learn these lessons.

Practically speaking, I would've been better off with a shorter trek (as my first). Still, I was reminded of a saying I once read:

Aim for the stars because if you fall...You still land in the clouds.

So an alternative plan was established. Mohan and Gela would head further ahead to Doban for the night as planned - or stop early if caught in the rain, while continuing on to Annapurna Base Camp Saturday. They'd meet up with Nima and I in Chomrong on Monday afternoon. Once reunited, we'd head west to Ghorepani (Elev. 2,874 meters) - a village Mohan confidently said I could reach. Then, we would take in a sunrise from Poon Hill amidst some of the highest mountains in the world, before heading back to Pokhara over another few days.

On My Own

I spent the rest of the day taking it easy. Nima Sherapa (our porter) kept a watchful eye on me and I soon found he spoke quite good English so we had no difficulty communicating. I introduced myself to 5 young English guys in the room next door as they were playing some fun music. They also had a small wooden chess board from India and cards. They were quite funny - Dan (got drunk), Jake, Mark, and two others. They were heading to ABC but on their own schedule, taking care to avoid the afternoon rain/hail (as none of them had waterproof shoes). In fact, they were mostly accumulating souvenirs and warm wool clothes as they went. They made me laugh and feel comfortable so I spent most of my time with them. I found it hard to take the trek, or myself, too seriously thereafter.

For dinner, I ate garlic soup again (it's suppose to help with the altitude) and some spaghetti, though I should've forced myself to eat more of it. In bed later, my stomach gurgling for sustenance, I ate most of a rock-hard granola bar and Snickers. I only got about three hours of sleep - from about 2-5 am'ish. During what felt like a long night, I used the toilet twice, refilled my water bottle, listened to some music, listened to the English guy in the room next to me rustle about and fart (he couldn't sleep either). I was warm though - too warm - so I took off the long johns which were too tight around the waist anyways, and my heavy fleece. I tried my best to keep the thinking to a minimum - it was hard.

Estimated Distance = 5km

Day 3 - Wasn't Born To Follow

Oh I'd rather go and journey...Where the diamond crescent's glowing and...Run across the valley...Beneath the sacred mountain...And wander through the forest...Where the trees have leaves of prisms...And break the light in colors...That no-one knows the names of. -- The Byrds

Friday, April 4, 2008

2:09 pm - Sinuwa - Elev. 2,360 meters

At 1 am I awoke with uncontrollable shaking throughout my body. I felt cold but when I felt my skin it seemed warm and clammy. I changed into my thick fleece, put on socks, beanie, and gloves. And I turned around on the bed so my head was away from the window. After zipping up my sleeping bag all the way, I began to feel better, and the shaking/shivering ceased. During this time, I contemplated waking Gela, and trying to find our guide Mohan. The problem was I didn't know what room he was in to try and get a blanket. In the end, it was an experience in self-reliance and simple survival.

This morning I awoke at 5:45 am when Gela rose and said "wow" upon looking out the room's window. She didn't realize how close the mountains were to us. I managed myself out of bed to breakfast after a massive misfire on the first squat toilet I've needed to use in 10 years. Washing it down and cleaning up was surprisingly easy.

I had porridge and hot water again for breakfast. I still didn't have much of an appetite but it was tasty. I knew it was to be a tough day, and set off with the group in high spirits.

We ascended the steep section from Jhinu danda to Chomrong in about an hour's time. It was exasperating. It felt amazing to hike up to a point that seemed to simply tower over us the day before. We then headed down the mountain to cross the river and head back up more steep stone stairs to Sinuwa. Clouds were upon us and rain had begun to sprinkle down. It was cool.

The Turning Point

I was panting heavily by the time we stopped in the Sherpa Guest House in Sinuwa. I started to notice I remained winded, breathing heavily, well after everyone else was fine. I layed on a bench and my breathing relaxed a bit, but my arms and hands began to tingle (in a way I've never felt before). At first, I thought they fell asleep, however Mohan and Nima started to check my pulse, recognizing something was right. This action drew the attention of others in the restaurant. A group of older French women were also relaxing (on their way down from Annapurna Base Camp) and one of them called her friend Isabelle over, as she was a doctor.

Isabelle didn't speak fluent English, however she asked questions like how much I'd had to eat/drink, how I slept the prior night, if I had a headache. We took my temperature (with the thermometer I brought) and there was no fever. It didn't seem to be the altitude as I had no headache. Basically, she diagnosed me with exhaustion and not eating/drinking enough. Upon reflection, I ate far too little for the physical activity I was enduring, however this was much in part due to my Giardia/stomach problems. And what I was ordering - plain rice/potato curry/tomato soup - I wasn't eating a lot of.

Isabelle had me eat a recently bought Snickers and I started to consume garlic soup ordered earlier by Mohan. I slowly lost the tingling feeling in my arms and hands. Isabelle suggested I sit outside as the sun was shining after the short rain. The view was much better and the warm heat felt good. I stared south down the valley, trying to eat more plain rice and toast with jam (doctor's orders). Mohan poured out my water which I had messed with earlier by adding rehydration salts. I hadn't been drinking as much since it tasted so awful. One of the French women brought to my attention that the third day of a trek is notoriously hard, given the first day or two are often driven by adrenaline and a fresh body. She also said I was looking better than when she first saw me. Apparently my face and hands were pale white twenty minutes prior.

As I felt my energy return (especially after drinking a liter of boiled/filtered water), my thoughts turned to what would happen next. I deserved a piss. I followed Isabelle's instructions by taking a rest in one of the guest house beds for 30 minutes - a bit longer than suggested but it felt comfortable and safe.

Estimated distance = 5 km

___________________

Nurse Amy - I'm curious to hear if you have any thoughts on what might have been happing. I'm guessing low blood sugar and high blood pressure?

Day 2 - Ballad Of Easy Rider

The river flows...It flows to the sea...Wherever that river goes...That's where I want to be...Flow river flow...Let your waters wash down...Take me from this road...To some other town. -- Roger McGuinn

Thursday, April 3, 2008

2:44 pm - Jhinu danda - Elev. 1, 745 meters

We awoke around 6 am to beautiful, clear views of Annapurna South (7,219 meters) and Hiun Chuli (6,441 meters).

It was chilly. Gela said she was coughing during the night however I was fast asleep.

I had porridge for breakfast with some hot water to drink. It was quite good. We left at 7:45 am.

From Tolka, we headed down to Landruk. We passed through Himalpani, arriving at Jhinu danda 30 minutes early at 11:30 am.

We passed over a few small bridges and two larger ones. The mighty Modi Khola roared below.

Despite starting and ending at about the same elevation, we went up and down quite a bit.

I went slower than the first day, taking special care on the descents to take smaller steps.

I was often at the tail end of our four-person crew. They were never far from sight though.

Despite walking along steep cliffs and up endless stone stairs, I found my rhythm.

The final ascent was exasperating. Aiming for Tibetan prayer flags that signaled rest kept me going.

Rain, hail, thunder, lightning, a rainbow. I feel like we've had a lot of time today to relax and recover. I need as much as possible.

Tomorrow is suppose to be a tough day. 6-7 hours of trekking some very steep mountain terrain.

And it is all the more important to start early to reach shelter before the weather turns bad.

The power just came back on!

That Evening

After the rain, Gela and I headed to the restaurant room where there was a large tour group taking up most of the space.

It reaffirmed for me that hiring a guide/porter was the right decision.

For many reasons: less costly, more flexible, more control (or so we thought on the last two points).

We chatted, read, ate, and drank ginger tea. Gela retired first. When I left for the room, I looked up and saw the most amazing stars.

Beautiful and clear like my first night in Tahiti.

I craned my neck skywards and slowly turned to take it all in.

The surrounding mountains were so high it was hard to tell where people's homes ended and the stars began.

After listening to some music, I knocked off as Gela did earlier.

Estimated distance = 7 km

Day 1 - Shelter From The Storm

'Twas in another lifetime, one of toil and blood...When blackness was a virtue and the road was full of mud...I came in from the wilderness, a creature void of form. "Come in," she said, "I'll give you shelter from the storm." -- Bob Dylan

Wednesday, April 2, 2008 9:43 am

We were dropped off at 1,220 meters and immediately climbed 320 meters in the first half hour.

10:07 am - Dhampus - Elev. 1,700 meters

Sun is intense. Sweating all down back. Beautiful.

11:48 am - Pothana - Elev. 2,000 meters

We have stopped for lunch in Pothana - Hotel Fishtail and Restaurant. Sounds include children playing, birds crowing, our food cooking, and the trickle of water from a tap by the hotel shower. A few Nepalis are playing a dice game nearby. Prayers fly off flags in the light breeze.

The morning hike was a rude awakening. Endless stone steps brought us past terraced farmland. Locals greeted us with "namaste" often. Red flowers of rhododendrons appeared. It is very pretty.

1:48 pm - Deurali - Elev. 2,150 meters

We have reached the high elevation of our trekking today. Large birds of prey circle the valley. A cool wind blows. A large prayer flag flutters. Rain and sun at the same time.

7 pm - Tolka - Elev. 1,785 meters

We sought shelter from rain at a Nepali home turned guest house. Sitting on the porch, damp and cool, rain turned to hail. Ox, chicken, dog, puppy, people, kids. All affected. On the next walk after a break in the weather, we got caught in another set of showers and hail, soaking my pants, socks, and sneakers. My rain jacket performed admirably, as did the North Fake short and long sleeve shirts, and my North Face fleece from China.

At about 1,900 meters, I surpassed my highest elevation to-date. I turned my right ankle though there was no pain. As the day drew long, I also felt some pain in my left knee. I slowed down my pace and held the (walking) stick in my left hand. After we reached our guest house, Mohan applied some Tiger Balm and massaged my leg. I didn't have an appetite - plain rice and tomato soup for dinner. I feel unbelievably tired. I want to sleep forever.

Most all of our clothes dried within a few hours by the wood stove. It is dark and peaceful.

Estimated distance = 11 km

Ready, Steady, Abort

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

6:43 am

We depart on our trek at 8am. For the fourth morning, I awoke at dawn to birds chirping, a cow or ox moo'ing, and other charming sounds outside my windows.

Pokhara is lovely, peaceful, and laid back - at least in Lakeside. I feel excited. My stomach cramps have gotten better. This trek is 90% mental, 10% physical, and I'm up for the challenge!

12:55 pm

I was picked up by scooter at 8am, zipped to The Mountain House, and learned Gela had a fever the night before. The decision to postpone our departure for a day was easy.

Instead, we toured a local Buddhist monastery, walked through the back alleys of a Tibetan refugee settlement, and toured a private monastic school. The half-day of sightseeing ended at a Hindu temple. Our trekking guide Mohan, and porter Nima, lead the way. An Australian, Dan, who was also delaying his travels due to illness joined us.

Final Trekking Preparations

The morning after deciding on which guide/porter to hire, Gela informed the manager at her guest house, and we met up for lunch at Boomerang, a restaurant with an idyllic outdoor patio overlooking the lake. The warm sun was beaming down on us, birds were chirping, prayer flags were fluttering, and the locals were going about their daily routines by the waterfront. I felt full of anticipation and excitement for what lay ahead. Trekking in Nepal's Himalaya was the #1 thing I wanted to do on my trip around the world, and the moment had arrived to make it a reality.

We made lists of the last-minute items we needed to pack, and went about buying granola bars, chocolate, iodine pills, toilet paper, etc. In the afternoon we met our guide, Mohan, and porter, Nima Sherpa. They seemed very quiet during our first meeting so I couldn't get a good feel for how well they spoke English. I was tickled that we would be spending time with a sherpa though. This ethnic group from the Khumbu (Everest) region of Nepal is highly spoken of by mountaineers (both in the books I've read and the TV shows I've seen) for their strength and loyalty on high-altitude expeditions.

The meeting was short, and to Gela's surprise, I had run out of questions. I did have the guest house manager (also a guide, of course) go through my pack so I could get a definitive answer to what I was missing. In the evening, we rented a large backpack for our porter, and I picked out a regular canvas daypack. I also bought a cheap double-sided fleece, and thin gloves and a beanie. Gela hired what we thought was a waterproof jacket (and later turned out to be crap).

I was still suffering from abdominal cramps. I had self-diagnosed myself with Giardia and picked up some antibiotics from one of the local pharmacies. I was hoping they'd kick in and I'd feel better for the first day of our trek. As if cramps weren't enough, I developed a blister between two toes on my right foot. I drained it a night ago but it still felt awkward and uncomfortable. I put a band aid on, but it hurt so I took it off for the night.

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As my time in Chengdu wound down, I reached deep into by backpack and pulled out a crumpled pair of Merrell hiking boots. After 4 months at the bottom of my pack, and only one day's use (Dec, New Zealand), they didn't feel right. They felt too tight, especially with wool trekking socks, so I didn't think they'd be comfortable. At the same time, I wasn't sure if I was better off using my non-waterproof New Balance cross-trainers or buying a new pair of knock-off boots in Nepal. I ended up using my boots for their trade-in value, and receiving enough feedback to feel confident using my broken-in sneakers which were well-fitted with my orthotics.

Meeting Gela

Around the time I was in Hong Kong, I had updated my TravBuddy.com profile to reflect my plans to trek in Nepal in April.

It was the first time I've tried to arrange to meet up with someone for the purpose of traveling together.

I didn't have to try too hard because I soon received a message from Gela (pronounced "gay-lah"), a Dutch woman planning to visit Nepal at the same time as me.

Over the next month or so, we exchanged emails every few days. She would be arriving in Nepal before me to volunteer in a village outside of Pokhara.

On my flight to Kathmandu, one of the Kiwis sitting next to me made a joke about the idea of planning a trek around someone you've never met.

I responded that it felt like an adventure within an adventure.

For some reason, the idea that Gela and I would not get along never occurred to me.

I just assumed that we were both the kind of person who liked the idea of having someone to meet up with in advance.

Through e-mail, we had also ensured our interests and priorities surrounding the trek were similar.

We bumped into each other on the sidewalk in Pokhara a few hours before we were due to rendezvous at the Moonlight restaurant for dinner.

It felt great to finally connect with the person I'd be trekking with for 10 days.

We walked down to the lake's edge as she hadn't yet seen the view yet. Once there, we sat on the concrete steps and began to get to know each other.

After our butts began to tire, we spoke to three travel agencies about hiring a guide and porter.

The prices for an 11-day Annapurna Sanctuary trek were all about the same.

I was happy we ran into Rob and Rosie at Moondance, though they left soon after for their night bus back to Kathmandu.

Gela and I discussed our options for the trek, and settled on hiring the guide/porter through The Mountain Guest House where she was staying.

It would cost me about $32/day, which included the cost of accommodation, 3 meals/day, and transportation to/from Pokhara.

Holding Pattern

7:38 am

I went to Moondance Restaurant with Rob and Rosie and two other kayakers joined us - Mike (France, 36) and Vasiili (Siberia, Russia, 32). I was surprised to hear Rosie is only 23 - she's kayaked since 11 or 12. Quite adventurous! She was cute - and I got a good vibe - not even sure she's with Rob, but they're off on their last river-run today so that's that. I had chicken tikka with rice and naan which was very good. I ordered an Everest beer, 5.5% alcohol in a big bottle. A good deal for $3 but I'm done with alcohol till the end of the trek - I need all the energy I can muster.

12:22 pm

First stop - internet - no response from Gela. Second stop - Busy Bee Cafe with lake view, prayer flags, and few customers. Haze does obscure the distant mountains but it doesn't matter. It's beautiful here.

I Google'd Rob and Rosie - I couldn't help it. Indeed they're pro's, or close to it! I love meeting cool, down to Earth people doing fantastic things. I wonder if anyone says that after meeting me?

Internet too slow to deal with photos now...or ever in mass.

Charlie said a new Asus AC Adapter will run $50 including shipping costs (from Chengdu). That's enough for me to think twice. Lug my impotent laptop around until India, or suck it up and buy the adapter?

4:52 pm

An hour ago I noticed winds rustling the leaves on trees. Now I just heard rumbles of thunder. Dark clouds are coming. I have a corner room with windows facing East and South.

6:25pm

I walked to the lake shore - very scenic. Sun was setting over mountain top - very bright. Abdominal cramps are stifling my desire to explore. I just realized ordering curry and beer last night wasn't a good idea, nor the veggie curry I had for lunch. If I get dinner, it'll be pasta or plain rice. I may just snack tonight, lay in bed, and read "Annapurna" - the story of the first ascent (of a peak over 8,000 meters) in 1950. The power is back on but via generators so the cable still doesn't work.

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Surprise! On my first night in Nepal I learned that 4-hour power outages are scheduled in Kathmandu, and twice that time is scheduled in Pokhara (though split between the morning and evening). Most business, especially those catering to tourists, use generators when there is no electricity. Still, you're not always be able to get that fresh fruit drink at a restaurant.

I find the experience adds to the charm of Nepal. There is something uniquely romantic about the atmosphere once the electricity goes off. Maybe it's all the warm light from the candles.

The Road To Pokhara

7:55 am

Stuck in traffic on the bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara. I'm 1 of 4 Westerners (all notably in the back seats except one old large white guy). Local music playing at a low background volume. We have not gone far. Dirt, rock, and trash line road. I feel like I could be on TV or in a movie. I truly feel like I'm at the start of an expedition. It is exciting. Except for the traffic which sucks. Nirvana's "Unplugged" is now playing with the bus driver occasionally singing along. Probably driven 100 meters in past 45 minutes.

9:50 am

Stopped again, though outside Kathmandu at least. Steep mountain pass, descending into valley. Traffic stops are passenger times to take pisses off cliffs. A ** STRIKE** has stopped traffic on this occasion. Just talking with two couples in back of bus - English/Columbian and English. We don't know when we'll move again. I already took my turn pissing off a cliff. Drinking Coke and eating biscuits.

2:50 pm

Hot on bus - 1 hour to go. Hot...sweaty...tired.

5:31 pm

The bus arrived at 4:45pm (9 hours) and I shared a cab with kayakers Rob (Ireland) and Rosie (Whales) to the Snowland Hotel. Single room with private bath, TV, phone for $10/night - very nice. Resting.

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Despite the long, dusty drive I wrote about in my journal, the scenery was fantastic as we drove along a river and through terraced valleys. The buses and trucks were all decorated with hand-painted designs, stickers, and ornaments. Communication was heavily dependent on the use of horns, and they often had a really funny tone to them. I got quite a kick out of them.

Cultural Acclimatization

Finished reading "The Beach" this morning after not being able to fall asleep until 2am last night. Power was out when I awoke - I can tell by the hum of a nearby generator. I still can't get a charge on my laptop - very bothering. I was about to get up from the Kathmandu Guest House restaurant to find an electronics store when I realized I'd be better off sitting still and eating. I have to slow down - definitely focus on the trek now, alternative sightseeing later. Since arriving in Nepal, it feels like I have a constant rush of adrenalin pouring through my veins, and not having a computer as an outlet is stifling. I should plop down at an internet cafe if I don't have luck on my own.

Jasmine tea and an egg omelet for breakfast. This place - popular Kathmandu Guest House - feels too nice....too touristy....no edge. I think it'll be nice to stay here *after* returning from the trek. I saw the South African girl from last night at Pilgrim's internet space - she's flying back home to Dubai where she works for the airline. I like how they give you strainers with the jasmine tea. Nepali tea is really tasty - milky with cinnamon.

Trekking Stores And Permits

Thamel is the tourist neighborhood of Kathmandu, meaning there are a plethora of outdoor stores selling fake supplies most notably North Face (err, "North Fake") and Mountain Hard Wear clothing and sleeping bags. Just about everyone says they are a guide, and it feels very hard to get a straight answer when you try to find out what equipment you will need for your trek.

I really wanted to wait until I was in Pokhara with the guidance of a hired guide before buying any additional stuff, yet I could only spend so much time surrounded by shops before I caved in and wanted to spend a little money. I bought a -5 degree Celsius rated sleeping bag, an aluminum "Annapurna" walking stick, a short-sleeve shirt, a water bottle, waterproof gloves and pants. The latter two I didn't even take on my trek after talking to a few more straightforward guides in Pokhara. As I continue to learn, people will often play on your fears and ignorance to get you to buy just a little more. I'm proud to say I resisted most of what was pushed on me. Progress!

For anyone planning to trek in the Annapurna region, you'll most likely spend a night or two in Pokhara first. Do yourself a favor and wait until you get there to buy any necessary supplies. Everything the Kathmandu shops sell can be found in Pokhara, and it is a much more peaceful atmosphere to do your shopping.

Also, if you intend to trek through the Annapurna Conservation Area, you'll need to buy a permit. These can be obtained in Pokhara, which was not the answer I got when I bought one in Kathmandu through a travel agent. Lastly, all trekkers need to get a separate registration pass which is free. Again, these are available in Pokhara, often through the guide you hire. Despite the clear-as-day print on the pass which indicated it was free, I still agreed to pay a "service" fee of $10 in Kathmandu because the agent said it was a hassle to obtain them yourself. And he gave me the wrong type of pass to boot. Often such salesman get away with this tripe because customers don't care enough to return and cause a stink after the fact, myself included.

Touchdown In Kathmandu

Touchdown was perfect. Kathmandu is big and sprawling - colorful buildings surrounded by mountains. I wrote up the Visa application, got two passport photos taken, changed my Chinese yuen and paid the $35 fee in US dollars. Got my pack and was picked out by a few guys. My ATM card didn't work at the first machine. Went with guys through traffic and crazy narrow streets to Thamel - tourist district - and got a single room at Pilgrim's Guest House. Just ate a pepper steak over black tea...by candlelight in the hotel's garden courtyard. The electricity went off 10 minutes ago. I should carry my headlamp in the evenings going forward.

After settling in, I went to a nearby ATM, meeting a couple of shopkeepers along the way. They invited me in for tea and we chatted. Thamel is like Kuta, Bali except they try to sell you treks and outdoor gear instead of massages and transport. At least I'm a bit hardened to it now. And I'm somewhat comfortable navigating the crazy narrow streets. Lots of motorbikes, bicycles, people, cars, honking. I already can't wait to get out on a trekking trail! I'm excited to meet Gela as well.

Everyone greets you with "Namaste" here.

Come Fly With Me (Over The Himalaya)

The flight from Chengdu to Lhasa was cool - crossing over the Tibetan Plateau - the snow-capped, glacier-ridden mountains slowly coming into view through the cloud cover. Getting to the airport early had paid off - I was able to secure a window seat (13A) for both legs. Next to me were two Kiwis living and working in Scotland/Wales. They were quite friendly and I enjoyed talking with them. One of the guys relayed his experiences with an overland tour in Africa. In front of us were an American girl (Rose from California) and two Spaniards who were traveling by bicycle. Like me, they had to skip past Tibet for Nepal due to the recent turmoil. I admired their sense of adventure.

Even if just at the airport, I was glad to have touched down in Lhasa, Tibet - rooftop of the world - 12,000 feet! I think adrenaline and a hangover outmatched any immediate feelings from the altitude. I bought a small square thangka (painting) made in a Tibetan monastery and a turquoise/silver necklace at the gift shop. And then we boarded the second flight to Kathmandu.

We passed over the Himalaya and had a fantastically clear view of Mt. Everest out of the right side of the plane. It felt so near - it was massive. I took tons of photos as did most of the passengers.

Combined, the two flights were no more than about four hours, yet they inspired more awe in me than all the rest I've taken combined. I did my best to suck it all in, not knowing when I'd have such an opportunity again.

Final Thoughts: China

In planning my trip around the world, I always thought of China as my gateway to Tibet, rather than a destination unto itself.

The language barrier concerned me, it was a huge country, and I didn't feel too curious about it.

Since I couldn't travel to Tibet, it allowed me the second week in Chengdu to explore and experience the culture.

I savored the spicy food, enjoyed the endless cups of tea, and found myself growing to appreciate the people more and more.

That's not to say I didn't find the government propaganda resulting from the Tibetan protests to be far out of line.

Highlights -

crossing the border from Hong Kong to Shenzhen (mainland China)
meeting and eating with Michelle and David
beating Adam in my first game of snooker
Couchsurfing with Charlie in Chengdu
arranging my train ticket and permit to Tibet (despite not being able to go)
visiting the Tibetan neighborhood in Chengdu
touring the panda bear research base
exploring DuFu's cottage and several monasteries
drinking lots of tea in the parks
visiting tea shops
picking up daily snacks (specifically ice cream cones) at the convenience store adjacent to Charlie's apartment
visiting People's Park
hanging out with Charlie's girlfriend Jody, and other friends Jovian and Sascha (Fodor's writer, aspiring Lonely Planet writer and super vagabond)
going out to clubs and bars - The Hemp House, Nanuna, Fair Club, 88, Cafe Panam(e)
visiting Chinese and Tibetan spas (despite the Ba Guan treatment)
playing Guitar Hero on Playstation 2 (a lot)
video arcades
Sichuan Opera

Eating -

Eating a different dish for almost every meal of my 2.5 weeks in the country (and enjoying them all).

My favorite was spicy pork dumplings. Most exotic included pig's tail, chicken gizzards, and pig's brain.

Authentic Chinese food is nothing like what I used to in America. It was far more flavorful and spicy (at least in Sichuan).

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

Average Daily Budget -

$55

A Late Last Night In China

I called Charlie after the opera and made my way across town to his apartment. Wu, his roommate, wanted to check out a popular bar/club called 88, and while being in a loud club was not high on my preferred activities, I was more interested in spending a little more time with a friend from home than where that time was spent.

My initial plan was to have a drink or two, and then go back to the hostel for some sleep before taking an early shuttle to the Chengdu airport. In reality, I'm a man of the moment and once we got into the club, and I started to get a kick out of the experience, there was no turning back.

For a Monday night, 88 was packed solid. Charlie said the setup of the club was typical for China. People sat and stood around tables, often having ordered a bottle of liquor and associated mixers. For our table, it was Jack Daniels and Coke. The staff do everything from delivering ornate fruit plates and popcorn to mixing and pouring your drinks. It's almost a bit too much customer service.

Meanwhile, DJ's alternate with live singers. The music being played was truly bad. MC Hammer and Vanilla Ice remixes were heard, and all Charlie and I could do to bear it was continue to drain our glasses. We also started to play a popular Chinese drinking game he had taught me a few nights ago. Each player has 5 dice that he shakes up under a cup. You then guess the number of numbers between the two players, bluffing if you want. Loser drinks. I lost a lot.

Upon returning from the toilets, Charlie told me to bring my camera. Photos weren't allowed inside, but being the rebel that I am, I took them anyways. Charlie pointed to a bunch of anti-Japanese posters on the walls leading to the restrooms. They were clearly racist, and a Chinese guy nearby was quite up front about letting us know the Japanese weren't welcome there. Charlie said these blatant sentiments go back to Japan's invasion during WWII.

After we had our fill of bad music and whiskey drinks, we went to a popular late-night restaurant for noodles before returning to Charlie's apartment. By this time, I had decided to stay up all night since I had to catch a 6am shuttle to the airport anyways. We played Guitar Hero, a video game I had become fascinated with while staying with him. And then we said goodbye, and I caught a taxi back to Sim's in the early morning.

Nepal was awaiting my arrival.

The Sichuan Opera

Among the many activities Charlie was excited to share with me, the Sichuan Opera always seemed to be at the top of the list. It therefore seemed fitting that I would attend a performance on my last night in China.

I had decided to stay at Sim's Cozy Guest House my last two nights as I had gotten to know the place well while arranging my onward transportation. Sim was the personable kind of owner who you'd see walking around all the time. I booked the opera show through the travel desk, and headed off in a shuttle with a group of fellow hostelers.

It turned out to be a Chinese variety show. Performers took turns dancing, singing, using puppets, playing instruments, performing a comedy skit (complete with English subtitles), doing acrobatics, fire breathing, and face changing.

The face changing was part of the finale. People in traditional costumes danced around, flicking their heads up/down or back/forth in an instant, changing the thin painted masks over their face. They did it so quickly, and so frequently, you were left amazed at how they could control the masks so skillfully.

Little Tibet Revisited

On the afternoon of March 22, I decided to revisit the Tibetan neighborhood in Chengdu. I was overdue for a Tibetan meal with butter tea, and was wondering what the scene was like in that area given the escalation of violent protests which had occurred in Tibet and western China.

I was immediately struck by the heavy police presence, yet despite police cars with flashing lights every 50 meters and motorcycle cops buzzing back and forth, it seemed quiet. A giant police bus was parked across the street from the Tibetan restaurant where I ate. On the surface, it seemed like business as usual.

Butter tea is very salty. If I had made it to Tibet, I would've made an effort to acquire a taste for it. Instead, I focused on my yak dumplings and yak meat and green pepper stir fry - what turned out to be far too much food for me. Then again, how often does one get to eat yak?

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