Blog - Go Backpacking

Slow Down, You Move Too Fast

Life moves slow in Laos, especially southern Laos, and that goes double for Don Det in the low season. Restaurant tables aren't cleared until you get up to pay or leave, meaning the plates and glasses remain for hours if your conversations are lasting that long. It is the polar opposite of food service in western countries. My first exposure to such service was in Costa Rica, so it wasn't an unfamiliar experience.

Nicholas, Caroline, and Celene wanted to walk to a waterfall at the southern end of the island just south of Don Det (and connected by a bridge). Normally I'd be too lazy to take on such an adventure, which was why I value the motivation of others! The walk turned out to be quite beautiful, if a little exhausting. Most people rent bicycles for the trip, but we decided it would be too much of a hassle given all the mud.

We walked through bright green rice paddies, across the old train bridge (built by the French), and to the raging waters of what I think was still the Mekong River.

After the waterfall, we headed back, in no rush at all because no one else is on the islands.

There were tons of great photo opportunities, and Celene was just as snap-happy as me, only she was using a new Canon SLR which made a cool clicky noise with each shutter release. She sounded like a true professional.

Eventually, we stopped at a restaurant by the bridge for a local delicacy - pumpkin burgers. I don't like pumpkins at home, but the Lao ones tasted different, and dare I say better! It was served on a baguette, a sign of France's lingering culinary influence in this country.

The Journey To 4,000 Islands

I awoke early, which was a good thing, as I got a knock at my door five minutes to 8 am saying I could take the morning bus to Laos (as opposed to the 1 pm bus I missed the day before). I quickly washed up, checked out, and hopped in the waiting minibus. There was a French couple - Nicholas and Caroline, a UK couple - Justin and Cat, and a single French girl, Celene, who I sat next to in the back. It was an hour or so drive to Laos' southern border which was very quiet.

Officially, we got our exit stamps from the Cambodia office, and received our entry stamps from Laos, however we had to wait 45 minutes between the border gates for our new minibus. Classic!

Normally I don't or can't take photos at a border crossing, however between the herd of goats hanging out in the street, and the Laos official swinging around in a hammock under a shade tree, I had a mini photo shoot. Neither the goats, nor the border officials, raised an eyebrow.

Our new minibus arrived after dropping off a group of tourists heading from Laos to Cambodia, and we got in for another hour's drive to the Mekong River. Once there, we were lead to a boat for the 10-15 minute ride to Don Det, a small backpacker haven. My initial impression upon exiting the boat was that it was like Gili Trawangan on a river. The main mud path through the village at the northern (tourist) end of the island was lined with small souvenir and convenience shops, restaurants, and a pair of internet cafes.

I joined the British couple at one of the first bungalows we came across on the sunset side of the island, while the French folks found a similar accommodation a little farther down. Like on Koh Phayam in Thailand, bungalow electricity was only available from 6-10 pm. We all regrouped in the evening for dinner and a few drinks at the restaurant tied to the French people's bungalow. As 10 pm rolled around, and it was lights out on the island, Justin, Cat and I headed back to our bungalows in the pouring rain. The paths were so muddy we removed our sandals so they wouldn't get stuck. The sensation of walking through the mushy mud paths in the dark was gross, as we were already aware of all the livestock in the area.

Final Thoughts: Cambodia

Highlights -

Meeting Alice, Sandy, Phillip and Ross on the bus to Siem Reap
Exploring Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Prohm ("Tomb Raider"), and other temples
My first shiatsu massage by a blind person
Visiting and supporting local community - Butterfly Garden restaurant, Angkor Children's Hospital, Handicap International
Talking travel for hours with Alice, the girls from Finland and Norway, and a guy from Philadelphia on my last night in Siem Reap
The scenic boat ride to Battambang
Moto tours through rural villages to killing caves and fields
Hearing Phi-lay describe his first hand account of life under the Khmer Rouge
Eating dinner and watching Bollywood movies with Phi-lay's family (twice)
Completing the dog dare

Pushing myself to try local foods like snake, grasshopper, and frog (just not the spiders....or the little fried birds....or the BIG cockroaches)
Reading "First They Killed My Father"
Visiting the Royal Palace
Eating dinner at the Foreign Correspondent's Club (FCC) along the riverfront in Phnom Penh
Spending an emotional and quiet morning at the Tuol Sleng genocide museum (S-21)
Walking through the killing fields at Choeung Ek
Buying 40 albums of mp3's at $0.75 apiece
Buying 4 paintings by Cambodian artists
The epic 16-hour minibus ride to Ban Lung with 16 Cambodians and a lot of bags/luggage
Swimming in my first crater lake and visiting waterfalls via moto rides through rural villages
4x4 action and scenic boat rides to ethnic villages in remote (by my standards) northeastern Cambodia
The friendliness, smiles, cheerful "hello's" and hospitality of Cambodians (especially the kids in the countryside)

Lowlights -

My brand new ASUS AC adapter breaking (third occurrence overall)
The epic 16-hour minibus ride to Ban Lung with 16 Cambodians and a lot of bags/luggage
My Creative mp3 player breaking, as well as the first replacement I bought

Eating -

Amok with chicken or fish and rice, Cambodian curry, fried rice, baguettes, coffee, pizza, ostrich, bugs, grasshopper, dog, snake, frog, Angkor beer, banana pancakes, parma ham risotto with mushroom sauce (Phnom Penh)

# of Days Couchsurfing -

Average Cost Per Day -

$63 (would be about $10 less if I didn't buy a new mp3 player, lots of music and souvenirs)

Breakdown

I was up early and in the hotel lobby by 7:30 am. My destination was Don Det, an island on the Mekong River in southern Laos. On paper, it seemed like a short 8-hour day, the worst of which would be the 4 hours riding dirt roads on the way out of Ratanakiri.

I was picked up at 8:15 am, and being the first in the van, I was able to secure a good seat. A large piece of plywood lay across the right side of the van's interior, making entry and exit just hard enough to be annoying. The bus actually departed town an hour later, packed to the gills with Cambodians and their luggage. Again, I was the only westerner, and to my knowledge, the only English-speaker, though at least I could lean back in my seat. As a bonus, I had the pleasure of being blasted with video karaoke at decibels louder than anything I heard on an Indian bus. For the record, I prefer India's music videos to anything else I've seen or heard in Asia thus far.

Around 11:45 am, our driver stopped to inspect the front right wheel well.

About 20 minutes later, we came upon a big truck filled with people, some of whom were pointing and laughing at our minibus. The driver stopped again, and this time, it was for good. Everyone exited the minibus and a few guys, along with the driver, began to take the front right wheel off, which involved an elaborate setup of wood from both within the bus, and along the road side. Apparently the jack didn't get the vehicle high enough on its own.

Meanwhile, I noticed everyone else had moved to shade on the side of the road, and with good reason. Standing on the dirt road, in the mid-day sun, was intensely unpleasant. I had my mp3 player with me but wasn't in the mood to hear music. The one time I start a bus trip without a full 1.5 liters of water turns out to be the time the bus breaks down in the middle of nowhere. Minutes felt like hours, and I started to wonder how long we would be stuck. Who knows how things work in Cambodia in such situations. I started to wonder whether I would need to tap my encyclopedic knowledge of Bear Grylls' survival techniques. The mud puddles by the road looked less than appetizing, and I was in no mood to scrounge for bugs.

After more than an hour of sweating and wondering, my patience finally ran out and I ambled over toward the driver who had also resigned himself to sitting in the shade after being unable to fix the minibus. Preparing to ask my "how long until" question using only body language, I was met with a response in English that a replacement car would be there in 10 minutes. He must've been shy, I thought, to have clearly seen me confused for the past hour and not offered up such useful information.

Less than 10 minutes later, a minivan pulled up with a man, a woman, and 12 bottles of water. I guzzled mine in an instant, and boarded our new vehicle while the rescuers set to work on the old one. As it turns out, minus the breakdown, it would've been a mere 3.5 hours on the dirt roads. Despite the breakdown, I was able to enjoy the scenery I couldn't see on my way to Ban Lung. There were far more homes than I thought, mostly set amongst farmland.

I missed my connection to Laos, and spent an uneventful night in Sleung Treng as a result.

A Cambodian 4x4 Tour in the Name of Culture

On my second day in rural northeast Cambodia, I hired a 4x4 to tour local ethnic villages. I went with a guide who was different from the one on my first day, who took me to a volcano crater lake. This new guide operated the small internet shop next to the hotel where I was staying.

4x4 in Cambodia — Dave on a 4x4 tour in Cambodia

He spoke better English and was offering the tour "at cost," meaning he would not be earning a profit. I don't know why. The guide I'd used a day earlier said such a move was designed to "destroy" him.

I felt bad, but as I had no one to share the cost with, the difference was sufficient for me to go with the lowest bidder. I promised to buy my next bus ticket from the first guide, which he appreciated.

First, we stopped so I could pick up a new 2-gig SD memory card (my fifth). Then, I asked to visit the bank, expecting to exchange traveler's checks, only to find an ATM.

It arrived in town a year ago, and I was ecstatic to find that it had begun to accept Visa in the last month. With a fresh supply of dollars in hand, we set off on a two-hour 4x4 ride past villages and into the jungle.

4x4 Tour

The first big obstacle was a detour through a stream. The far end was the deep section, and we were under enough water for me to wonder whether my feet were about to get wet.

Thankfully, my driver handled it all like a pro, and the jeep never flinched (well, it did stall once over the 4-hour round trip).

Giant ruts from erosion and massive holes filled with muddy water hampered us the whole way. I was glad to have sprung for the more costly truck over a motorbike.

The 45-minute boat ride upriver to the first ethnic village was great, with beautiful views. On the subsequent boat legs of our journey, I sat in front. The boat was so narrow that it felt as though one errant shift in weight would capsize us.

Cambodian Village

The first village was settled about 30 years ago after the Khmer Rouge was deposed. It consisted of an ethnic minority of 300-400 Cambodians who practiced Animism, a belief system related to animal spirits.

The unusual cemetery was the main draw, which turned the village into a tourist destination. The rituals surrounding death require a lot of time and effort, and symbolism is used extensively in the construction and placement of the graves.

My guide carefully pointed out the exact spot where the buffalo are sacrificed. A few of their skulls hung on trees around the cemetery.

Village fisherman (lived in village since inception - 30 years ago) — Visiting a village elder

As we headed toward the boat, it began to rain, and we could wait it out in the home of one of the village elders. My guide/driver also acted as an interpreter so that I could ask a few questions.

Back on the boat, we returned to the restaurant where we had begun, which overlooked the river. There, we ate lunch before heading off on a shorter 10-minute boat ride downriver to walk through Chinese and Lao villages.

Chinese Village

The Chinese arrived after escaping the Japanese invasion during WWII. Twenty-five families accounted for about 125 people.

When I noted the many stores selling cell phones, radios, etc., my guide responded that the Chinese were natural businesspeople; thus, their village reflected their prosperity.

Lao Village

The adjacent Lao village stood out in stark contrast. It was filled with farmers who sold rice to the Chinese and also bought from their shops. The Lao people settled due to their proximity to Cambodia and past warfare.

Swimming In A Volcano's Crater Lake

I slept late the morning after my harrowing bus ride to out of the way northeast Cambodia. When I walked downstairs to find breakfast, I was practically ambushed by a tour guide for the hotel. I agreed on a half day moto tour of three local waterfalls, along with a stop at Boeng Yeak Laom, the local swimming hole.

While I needed to see more waterfalls like I needed a hole in the head, I went along for the ride to savor a few more hours of weaving through rural villages, rubber plantations, and farmland. The first waterfall was the best, as you could walk behind the wall of cascading water. By the third I was more than ready to see the lake.

The moment we arrived, it began to rain so we sought shelter under one of the few small restaurants. After the rain passed, I went for a wonderful swim. The water was clear, the temperature perfect. Nature's bath! Perhaps it was the rain, or the late hour, but I had the jungle-enclosed lake to myself. Well, aside from a baby getting a scrubdown on the stairs. According to my guide, it is dangerous to swim near the center of the lake because water is sucked down into the volcano. And while he assured me there were no volcano sharks lurking around, there was still an eerie quietness I found slightly unsettling.

The opportunity to swim in such a beautiful lake, yet to be disturbed by development, was worth the discomfort of my bus ride. The guide said there was news of a 5-star hotel to be built using the lake as it's "swimming pool." If true, it would be a shame to have the very tranquil nature of the lake disrupted by hotel development trying to sell the seclusion it has destroyed! The idea reminded me of an article I had read in a Southeast Asia magazine which detailed how much of Cambodia's land is currently being sold to foreign investors. Hundreds of islands have been bought, and the impression I was left with is the country is up for sale.

Welcome To My Nightmare

Sometimes I use shorthand in my journal to track my day. The following events are real. If I knew proper names, I would most certainly use them. It is worth noting that the advertisement for this minibus trip to Ban Lung in northeast Cambodia stated 10-12 passengers. The trip was suppose to take 10-12 hours, including 4 hours on dirt roads toward the end.

6:30 am - Woke up

7:00 am - Unexpected moto taxi ride to travel office

7:30 am - Moto ride back to Lotus Travel near Rory's Guest House in light rain to pick up my forgotten passport (with freshly inked Laos visa)

8:00 am - Minibus picks me up. I am the only tourist in a bus of Cambodians who do not speak English. The seat I get in the second to last row is of the flip-down variety. The back support is non-existent. As we head out of town, several more people are picked up, with a woman choosing a seat behind me over sharing mine (I don't blame her). This results in a kid sharing my seat instead. Due to all the bags of unknown content, and luggage configuration, the back of my seat is flipped down. I've gone from poorly supported backing to no backing whatsoever, with a mere 11 hours to go. The two guys to the left of me have little luggage and maximum legroom. The guy to my immediate left guards his space by keeping his right knee aggressively pointed out. There are now 17 people, including the driver and me, in the minibus.

Our driver is the Cambodian Mario Andretti. He doesn't see a car, truck, or bus he doesn't pass at high speed. Anything that moves on the street is warned with a staccato honk - beep beep beep beep beep. I hypothesize that the first beep is a mental note to himself that there is life ahead, while by the fifth beep, he's actually warning the life form. Sometimes, I don't even see movement on the road to warrant this noise. It's incessant, and turning up my new mp3 player to drown it out only hastens my eventual deafness.

A few hours into the trip, we stop for a bite to eat, and I see a woman selling fried spiders for the first time. She holds a big plate of them in one hand, and a bucket of live ones in the other. Since no one spoke English, I didn't have the opportunity to ask why she was carrying live ones around. My only guess was it indicated freshness. Or maybe customers can choose their snack from the live bunch. If eating a spider was a dare, I would gladly fail to complete it.

1:30 pm - We reach muddy road blocked by a trapped pickup truck. Many men try to free the truck to no avail. Other trucks begin to circumvent it through more mud. Each success is met with a small cheer from the crowd. It is raining lightly, and as I couldn't resist getting out of the bus for a few photos, my clothes are damp and my feet muddy. I learn one Cambodian man on our bus does speak a little English. When a large bus tries to make its way past the pickup truck along an intersecting mudbath, it gets stuck too.

2:30 pm - The road delay lasts one hour before the large bus gets stuck, and Mario gives up and takes a detour through a village along the shores of the Mekong River. If he has a saving grace, it is an unnerving desire to see his passengers to Ban Lung come hell or high water.

3:00 pm - Lunch in Kratie. The chicken is served on the bone, thus I don't bother to eat it, focusing on the rice instead. I buy some crackers and water.

5:00 pm - Reach Stung Treng where the pavement ends and the 4 hours of dirt roads begin. It is starting to get noticeably dark as the sun heads down. Mr. English, familiar with the route, expects we'll arrive a few hours late, around 8-9 pm. Beyond any initial excitement for the journey, by this point I am in a state of semi-consciousness, still prone to my emotions and hopes of arriving before any power cuts which may be the norm for the small provincial capital.

6:40 pm - Night, pouring rain, headlights stopped working. Mario pulled into a nearby building with lights and people watching TV. Perhaps a restaurant? I've got a pounding headache from the bumps and noise and whole day. Fortuitously, I put some Paracetamol in my daybag the night before, which takes the edge off. I'm tired and cranky. What the hell am I doing in northeast Cambodia? Where will I sleep tonight? We pass very few homes with lights, and I consider the possibility that I may end up knocking on some Cambodian's door in search of a bed. I accept this as my plan-B. My bags, clothes, paintings will all get soaked if I have to walk any distance.

7:30 pm - The headlights were fixed for 30 minutes, then broke again. Mr. English, along with an Asian tourist who had the front seat up until this point, ditched us for a ride with a local. I felt slighted. Apparently my 5 minutes of chit-chatting at the roadblock couldn't compete with the rapport developed with Mr. Front Seat.

Mario makes the executive decision to continue driving down the pitch-black, rain-soaked, bombed-out, mud road using the flashing amber hazard lights of our Mercedes Benz. We drive at a snail's pace for another 4.5 hours. It was hellacious. The woman behind me (mother of the kid next to me), Ms. Loudmouth, laughed heartily every time we hit a bump in our disabled vehicle. It began to sound like fingernails on a chalkboard. Past any regard for politeness, on several occasions I cupped my hands over my ears in an attempt to display my annoyance. Her son apparently took after her, all but shouting in my right ear when he spoke, spit occasionally spraying onto my right cheek. By now, I was so tired, I had no emotional energy left to be angry or annoyed or anxious.

My comfort, and that of the other passengers, improved incrementally as people began to get off an hour or so outside of our final destination.

12:00 am - Arrived in Ban Lung, a full 4-6 hours later than expected, though the rain had ceased. Even the roads in the center of town were dirt. There was no one around. I knocked on the first hotel lobby I saw with lights on (and 4 men sleeping on cots and benches). Apparently, though it sounds hard to believe, I was able to get the last room available.

A cold shower and sleep were all I could handle.

MP3 Meltdown (x2)

Each time I broke a camera, I was annoyed but grateful my mp3 player was still intact and working fine. Unlike removing photos from a digital camera, I can't remove my music from a broken mp3 player. I remember spending weeks burning my CD's to mp3's, and then loading 7 gigs of my favorite music. Genres and songs for all potential moods and occasions. What would happen to me if I were to lose it all?

Unfortunately, I found out when my Creative Zen V Plus mp3 player froze upon start-up my first morning in Phenom Penh. It sometimes happens, so I took out the trusty needle I'd been using the whole trip specifically to "reset" the player. I tried it once....twice....thrice, but no luck. Around the tenth attempt, I gave up.

The silver lining was my location - a capital city. Surely there would be mp3 players for sale, and as for the music, I didn't know. I took a tuk-tuk to the Central Market out of sightseeing curiosity, but quickly began to shop around for a new mp3 player. There were the knock-off iPods, but I didn't want to buy cheap and pay for music, only to have it break in a month. I eventually found a Transcend 4gb player at a computer shop across the street encircling the market. $57 seemed steep, however I got a guarantee with it (good only in Cambodia of course).

After buying the player, I went into a nearby music shop to ask about buying English mp3's. I was given a box of bad Asian pop music and compilation hip-hop CD's. I might've been hopeful had the box not contained 20 copies of what appeared to be 3 different CD's. Next, I wanted to check out the backpacker area by the lake since I wasn't staying there. As the tuk-tuk drove through the narrow street, I saw a few signs for mp3's, and disembarked. At one bar, I found giant catalogues of modern and older music by genre. I was ecstatic. I ordered a big Beer Lao and drew up my list. I handed the list of 32 albums to the guy, racking up a total bill of $20. He even loaded the music for me, while I took in a sunset over the lake at a nearby guest house.

In the pouring rain, I collected my mp3 player and rode back to Rory's, triumphant. The mp3 player didn't include an AC adapter, but it seemed like both options I tried were working - using my Creative AC adapter and the USB port on my general purpose AC adapter. I had music again, but not for long.

The next morning, my new Transcend mp3 player wouldn't start up. I was pissed! I was shocked! I was not going to waste any time getting back to the computer shop for a replacement. After all, I had paid a premium for a guarantee! As to why it was broken, it occurred to me that it couldn't handle the charging from the AC adapters, but there was no way to tell for sure.

Back at the computer shop, I presented my receipt, the player, and all of the packaging and components to the sales girl who had helped me the day before. She brought it to the second floor techie room, where a guy confirmed it was broken. I came back down to the customer service area, where a young man informed me that since I had removed the small "warranty shield" sticker which had been placed on the device at the point of sale, they guarantee was voided. I retorted that I was unaware of the sticker's importance. After a few minutes of back and forth, I was resigning myself to having thrown away $77 and an afternoon, when the young man asked if I would be leaving the store angry. I'm sure my expression said "yes" even if I didn't.

At that point, he went to talk to someone else, and I was then told a replacement could be provided if I waited another 30 minutes. Sure enough, I got a new one, and directed my driver to head for the backpacker enclave yet again. It felt like Groundhog Day, though the guy who I bought the mp3's from the first time around wasn't working.

Luckily, there was the Boom Boom Room which sold mp3's as well. I ended up buying more music than the first time around. Ironically, the harder to find stuff on my old player was also the stuff I listened to the least. I went for the artists I could depend on the most, including:

AFI
Bedouin Soundclash (the one with When the Night Feels My Song)
Ben Harper (Best of)
Bob Dylan (x2)
Bob Marley (Legend)
CKY (Infiltrate Destroy Rebuild)
Coldplay (x3)
Guns 'n Roses (Best of)
Marvin Gaye (oooh yeah)
Jack Johnson (the one with Banana Pancakes)
NOFX (So Long...)
Pearl Jam (Best of)
Rancid (Indestructible)
REM (Best of)
Rodrigo y Gabriela (for their cover of Metallica's Orion)
Sublime (self-titled)
Sum 41 (Chuck, and new one)
The Dave Matthews Band
The Red Hot Chili Peppers (x4)
The Shins
Tom Petty (Wildflowers)
Ween (The Mollusk)
Soundtracks - The Beach, Garden State, City of God (for Brazil)

2.5 gigs of music obtained, I was ready to hit the road to Rattanakiri in rural northeast Cambodia.

The Killing Fields At Choeung Ek

Stupa

I ate lunch at a pleasant restaurant directly across from S-21, and headed out of town on the dusty, dirty, pollution-choked road to the killing field at Choeung Ek. All but about seven of the 10,000+ prisoners that passed through S-21 were killed. Some died from the torture, beatings, disease, or malnutrition, while most were hauled off to Choeung Ek for straightforward execution.

It was a moving site, and bigger than the ones I saw around Battambang, but no more powerful.

Skull

I made an offering of flowers and incense at the stupa which was filled with thousands of skulls and bones.

It was sobering to see the holes in the Earth - excavated mass graves.

On the dirt paths, you could see human bones sticking out.

I joined 2 Australian guys on a tour as there were no more guides available. The guide was blunt. I wasn't sure if he relives personal experiences every day working in such an environment, just doesn't know much English, or talks that way for effect. Regardless, I was glad to have already had a more personal experience beforehand with Phi-lay.

A Morning Of Reflection At S-21

I spent 2.5 hours touring all 4 concrete buildings at the Tuol Sleng genocide museum. Under the Khmer Rouge, the former school was referred to covertly as S-21.

Stepping into the former cells in Building A, I was confronted with a solitary bed frame, old ammo boxes which were the prisoners' toilets, and rudimentary shackles consisting of a metal bar and two semi-circular cuffs. A large photograph of the victim found in the room hung as a reference to the terror that occurred there 30 years earlier.

It was the Vietnamese, who upon liberating Phenom Penh and Cambodia in 1979, first discovered the secret prison that was S-21. A photographer captured the images of the last prisoners to be tortured and killed there.

As I was quietly reflecting, a tour group began to come up behind me. Despite the sign posted outside the cells requesting silence, the leader continued to talk to the group once inside, which I found to disturb my own experience. I decided to sit outside and wait for them to pass, at which point I was approached by a Cambodian student and asked to complete a survey. It presented a nice diversion until the group passed, and I resumed.

Standing in the rooms, looking at photos of what happened to people there was horrifying. It sent chills up my spine the few times I consciously tried to imagine what it would've been like to experience the prison first hand.

It's unlike any other museum I've walked through. The Holocaust Museum in Washington, DC is somber, yet there is something I found more emotionally moving about actually standing in the physical structure and rooms, and on the orange and white checkered tiles, where so many people were mistreated and killed.

Seeing the photos of the men, women and children held there was even worse. I was close to tears. The looks of fear, unhappiness, and sadness on their faces. The paintings depicting torture - a Khmer Rouge figure preparing to hit a baby against a tree as his mother is pulled away crying. The image of a baby speared with a soldier's bayonet.

There were also displays of rudimentary torture devices, including a slanted table used for waterboarding.

_________________

PS: After exiting my tuk-tuk on the side road outside the museum's walls, I was almost immediately approached by a man requesting money. He removed his cap to gesture for a donation, and when I looked at his face, I was immediately taken aback by the disfigurement. It looked like he had been severely burned. His right eye seemed to be coming out of the socket. Shocked, I turned down his request and hustled into the museum's entrance.

Once inside, I paid and sat down for a moment to collect my thoughts. I felt remorse for my initial reaction, and removed some money from my wallet to offer should he still be around when I left. Sure enough, almost 3 hours later, he approached me again, and while I can't claim to have stuck around long to talk, I did hope the money I gave him would be of some use.

Birthday Wish List

The Facts: It's September 25th. It's my birthday. I'm a Libra.

Thoughtful dares (with much appreciated rewards) would make my day so far from home. To all my family, friends, former coworkers, and readers everywhere, now is your chance to speak up!

If you're having trouble thinking of something entertaining (relevant, funny, weird, embarrassing, or just plain gross), check out the dares I've completed or still have pending. And here's my personal travel wish list for the remainder of my time abroad:

Laos - see what the fuss is about, rock-climbing, river tubing
Northern Thailand - cooking class, short jungle trek
South Africa - show up at Warren's (Koh Phangan) door in Cape Town for a locals' perspective, cage dive with Great White's, safari to see the Big 5, survive Johannesburg, contemplate further overland travel (Mozambique anyone?)
Ethiopia - I don't know why, but it appeals to me
Egypt - Cairo, The Great Pyramids, Sphinx, sailing down the Nile, lots of old stuff I'm sure is cool, riding a camel, not getting kidnapped and held for ransom
Jordan - photo-op with Petra (preferably Nemcova, but I'll settle for the archaeological site)
Italy - stand on the Grand Canal in Venice 10 years after I first fell in love with the city, eat pizza and gelato, drink copious amounts of (cheap if necessary) red wine
Switzerland - mountains, lakes, cleanliness, order, meeting Swiss Miss, chocolate, and the couches of the people I met in Pokhara
Germany - Berlin, beer, and more couches
Holland - go on a bicycle ride with Gela, my one and only trekking buddy from Nepal
Belgium - chocolate
Paris - more couches, Jim Morrison's grave, the catacombs, delicious food
London - English-speaking couches (or floor space if I see Adam from Hong Kong), attend an English Premier League soccer match (preferably involving Chelsea, Arsenal, or Man United)
Brazil - Rio, beaches with cool names like Copacabana and Ipanema, drinking caparinhas, samba lessons, Carnival, trekking in the Amazon, Sao Paulo, meeting my future wife :)
Bolivia - salt flats, mountains, who knows - it's cheap and politically unstable
Peru - trekking the Inca trail to Machu Picchu
Colombia - hang out in cool, scary sounding (but now relatively safe though yet to become touristy) cities like BogotÃ¡, Medellin, Cartagena, exploring the countryside while avoiding narco-terrorists
Panama - swinging in a hammock on Bocas del Toro (islands), A man a plan a canal Panama (living the palindrome!)
California - Los Angeles, Take the "OC" tour which I'm sure exists by now, Beverly Hills 90210, San Diego to see my good friend Bob
Colorado - tap the Rockies
Florida - gettin' jiggy wit it in Miami, eat a Cuban sandwich in Little Havana, hang out at my parent's condo near Tampa Bay
Canada - Montreal...Canadian couches (my favorite, though I'm not sure I'm invited yet)
New York City - come full circle by visiting my friend Kai at his office, backpack having been around the world and back

I admit after 10 months, it looks ambitious in list form, but that's why I need your support!

French Colonial Architecture

I studied a little bit of architecture in college, and while I've forgotten all those pesky details we had to memorize for exams (you know, minor stuff like influential architects, buildings, and styles), I retained an appreciation for architecture as art. The French Colonial architecture seems out of place in an Asian country such as Cambodia. The above photo captures a beautifully restored building now used by UNESCO. I love the luck I struck by catching a passing monk and traditional cyclo in the same shot.

Next to the UNESCO building was another fantastic representation of the style, though it could do with a new coat of paint. Both of these buildings are opposite the park in front of the national museum near the riverfront.

And lastly, I'm not sure if the building along this side street was French Colonial or not, but the open shutters struck a chord with me visually.

The Royal Palace

After a simple breakfast at upmarket Cafe Fresco along the riverfront, I walked aimlessly around the neighborhood.

The Royal Palace, I was assured, was not quite as stunning as the one in Bangkok, though it seemed worthy of a visit.

While it lacked the Thai flair for colorful mosaics, the architecture was very similar and beautiful in its own right. Neither the building with the throne, nor the temple with the giant gem-studded gold Buddha and silver-tiled flooring allowed photography, so you'll just have to put Cambodia on your travel list if you want to see what's inside.

Destination: Phnom Penh

Still aglow after experiencing the hospitality of Phi-lay's family, I boarded a comfortable mid-morning bus to Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh. I was able to fully appreciate the scenic drive for two reasons - the paved roads and the arrival at the city's outskirts an hour ahead of schedule. My bus buddy for the trip was a Cambodian who commuted to the capital every weekend to complete his Master's. His English was great, so I made sure to spend some time chit-chatting.

I made a conscious decision to stay by the riverfront, which is a little more expensive and centrally located than the traditional haven for backpackers by a lake. After my first choice hotel was booked, I stumbled upon an available room above Rory's Irish Pub. At $14 a night, I was a block from the central riverfront area, a few blocks from The Royal Palace, and surrounded by tons of restaurants (everything from the local eateries to The Foreign Correspondent's Club). My view from the pub looked out over an open park filled with children playing every afternoon.

Guest Of Honor

Money matters out of the way, I was happy to return to Phi-lay's home. Since I mentioned chicken was my favorite the previous night, his wife planned to cook it two different ways. While Phi-lay was driving a few other tourists around, I hung out with Rich and an assortment of his siblings and neighborhood kids. There always seemed to be lots of people around. We sat on a rustic bench in the shade of a large tree near the road, and watched life (and traffic) go by. Phi-lay's brother was in town, however he didn't speak English.

I'm a recovering picky eater, so when the night's offerings were placed upon the table and I saw the chicken still on the bone, I moved slowly so as not to take more of the food than I knew I could eat. In restaurants, if I forget to ask, and chicken arrives on the bone, I usually leave it completely aside. My strategy failed miserably when Phi-lay continued to heap on chicken long after I had stopped. While I enjoyed nibbling on a few of the frog's legs, he made sure to give me an entire curry-stuffed little beast. To my surprise, I enjoyed it more than the chicken. The guts had been removed in favor of a spicy curry paste. It was a little gritty, but otherwise tasty.

Since they don't have a refrigerator, ice is required to keep drinks (or food) cool, so I was honored that they had bought ice to keep two Anchor beers cold for me. Phi-lay and his brother drank cheap ginger wine without abandon. He said a bottle normally lasts him 10 days, thereby accounting for one after-work drink a night.

After the adults ate, followed by the kids (oldest to youngest), I was once again invited to watch Bollywood movies upstairs. Knowing what to expect this time, I simply sat back and soaked up the atmosphere. We shared some small treats I had bought earlier when Rich took me on a short moto ride. We stopped at a small, finely manicured park where he said people go for wedding photos. A young woman pulled up in a Lexus SUV (popular vehicle of the wealthy in the country), and Rich commented on her status. His master plan was to marry a European woman so he could leave Cambodia and make more money (I have no doubt some of which would be sent back to his family).

Sunset

When the lights went off at 9pm, the flashlights turned on, and I hopped on Phi-lay's moto for the ride back to my hotel. Before getting into town, I gingerly leaned backwards and cranked my neck up to see a night's sky filled with twinkling white stars.

Morning Market, Crocs, Snakes, And A Killing Field

Phi-lay sold me on staying another day in Battambang, and he did it through being such a sincere and friendly person.

A lot of drivers and guides could learn a thing or two from such a man. It wasn't just Phi-lay though.

I was enamored with the moto rides through villages and hearing the "hellos" of little kids.

I knew my Cambodian experience was being defined in the countryside around Battambang, not the Angkor Wat tourism of Siem Reap, nor whatever lay ahead in Phnom Penh.

I managed to be up by 8 am for a breakfast of bread with cheese and coffee with fresh milk on the roof.

Phi-lay met me at 8:30 am and took me to a locals' morning food market (not the big Central Market).

I saw a dog's head being cracked open with a cleaver, fish and frogs being cleaned, and plenty of meat and entrails on display inside a building.

Live snakes, snails, and fish were also for sale. But my personal Moby Dick, the scorpion, was nowhere to be found.

Next, we motored on paved roads out of town and through villages.

Our first stop was a crocodile farm where the crocs were so motionless the first few minutes, I thought they were all statues (and I was being duped).

Phi-lay disproved my feeble theory by tossing some crumpled leaves into the pit toward a croc with its mouth open wide. To my surprise, it instantly snapped its jaws shut.

Meanwhile, a guy was up a palm harvesting coconuts along one of the farm walls!

We passed one of the former Khmer Rouge hospitals where Phi-lay had stayed as a child.

We stopped near a temple for a rest break. Phi-lay bought some dried snake, which was heated up over a small flame before being ready to eat.

On a foodie roll, I tried some when offered. It had the consistency of jerky, and a distinct snakey flavor which was certainly all its own (as opposed to chicken).

We visited a killing field where over 10,000 Cambodians lost their lives.

We slowly walked around the stupa which was still a work in progress.

Sculpted reliefs depicted the difficult daily lives of the people under Pol Pot's reign, including the long hours toiling in fields, and various means of execution and torture.

The most gruesome image for me was a baby impaled upon the bayonet of a rifle being waived in the air.

These sights are so solemn, especially when with a survivor, yet I sense a resilience in Phi-lay and the country.

In spite of government corruption and poverty, I hope for nothing but the best in Cambodia. As a show of appreciation, I paid Phi-lay double the cost of the two tours.

Money matters out of the way, I washed up at the hotel and awaited a ride back to his family's home for another special meal.

Cambodian Hospitality

I hesitated at first, when Phi-lay asked me to join his family for dinner after having only spent a few hours with me. I sensed he wouldn't take "no" for an answer, and as he was literally in the driver's seat at the time, I RSVP'd for what was to become one of my fondest experiences of the whole trip. The initial delay might have been from the knowledge that in addition to him and his wife, there were 8 children in the family. 8! I don't even know what to do around one.

The whole family lives together under the same roof. Only Phi-lay and his eldest son, Rich, work and bring in money. They were also the only two to speak English. The cynical part of me wondered how much of the interest in me was tied to an interest in a bigger tip. But that small voice, which is new to me and only the result of too many encounters with hustlers and greedy drivers on my trip, was quickly overshadowed by his wonderful family. A welcoming wife, pretty daughters (the youngest being 11 and 14) and handsome sons (Rich being in his early 20's).

We had beef and rice, and sweet potatoes later on while watching a Bollywood movie in their TV room which doubles as a bedroom for the kids. The dining table and open-air kitchen are on a patio under the house. They only have electricity from 7-9pm nightly, and it is bought from a private supplier. The power level would decrease from time to time, requiring the DVD to be restarted and fast forwarded to the place where it last played.

Feeling tired from a long day, I asked for a ride back to my hotel a little before 8pm, but not before committing the special scene to my camera's memory card.

Dare #14 - Completed - It's A Dog Eat Dog World

Woof

#14 - From Erica:

You knew someone would dare you to eat dog while you were in Vietnam, didn't you?

Reward $20

Status: Completed

At some point in Thailand, I resolved to skip traveling through Vietnam to hasten my departure from the Asian continent. As a result, I targeted Cambodia as my best shot at eating dog to complete Erica's dare (clearly she is a cat person!). After wetting my palette with bugs, Phi-lay dropped me off at the hotel so I could shower the day's accumulation of red dirt off my body.

He picked me up again at 4pm and took me to a local restaurant where the chef/owner has served dog for the last 10 years. I imagine the last time a Westerner ate there was NEVER! Yet there were several tables of Cambodians and it wasn't even the dinner rush. I required a beer for this one, and Phi-lay joined me on that note. As we awaited our food, I took a photo of the chef, and upon showing him, he proudly ran around the place showing people the photo of him holding a giant pot of dog parts. Who are we to judge whether this delicacy is right or wrong?

I asked to try both of the available dog dishes - grilled and a greasier, bone-inclusive stew (complete with kidneys). Phi-lay assured me the food was safe as doctors visit the farms where the dogs are raised. Mint leaves and sliced young banana were accompaniments, along with a tasty curry dipping sauce. After a few bites of the grilled dog meat, which seemed to be in the shape of sausage, and the yuckier stew, I tried to be polite and focused on gobbling up the crunchy and delicious young banana slices which went well with the now dog-flavored dipping sauce.

Phi-lay admitted to not being keen on dog either (he needed a beer with he meal too), though I was glad he joined me. Thankfully, his wife was beginning to prepare a proper dinner back at home, and I was invited!

PS - I love dogs. Especially Bernese Mountain Dogs. I even scratch the scruffy beach dogs. Just not the possibly rabid ones that look like the living dead.

A Tour To Remember

I just had one of the best days of my trip. It started with a good 12 hours of sleep, shower, and some CNN. I had breakfast on the Royal Hotel's roof and read more of "First They Killed My Father." At times, I was close to tears.

Looking out at the beautiful Cambodian countryside

I went downstairs to use the internet and had a message which made me smile. Then, I connected with a moto driver, Phi-lay, in the lobby.

He offered a motorbike tour for $8 - a price so reasonable I didn't bother to negotiate. We hopped on his bike a little after 10 am.

Phi-lay, and my chariot, await amongst the rice paddies

First, I asked to stop at an ATM so I could get some cash in dollars (ATM's dispense US dollars in Cambodia, and only small denominations of Riels). Then we zipped out of the city.

Soon, we were cruising along dirt paths between rice fields and through rural villages. Once again, little kids waved and said, "Hello."

We arrived at the entrance to the caves and hill temple, where I rehydrated and ate some fruit.

Taking a local guide up the hill worked out perfectly (and cheaply, at only $1). He had been guiding since age eight and spoke excellent English. He wants to become an English teacher eventually.

Remains and offerings for the dead (ex: water bottle)

Our first stop was a small cave with a few remains on display. It was disheartening to think about the evil Khmer Rouge pushing people off cliffs into the caves to kill them.

Even worse was to think about those being left to die amongst the already dead if the initial fall wasn't lights out.

The second and larger cave had the remains of several hundred Cambodians killed in both the small and big caves. It was a very somber place. Rainwater permeating through the rock ceiling dripped down, creating a damp atmosphere.

A beheaded Buddha statue in the larger killing cave

The hilltop Buddhist temple was taken over when the Khmer Rouge came into power and turned it into a prison.

A sad desecration of a sacred place. And it happened across the country. Monks were killed, Buddha statues were beheaded, and temples were destroyed.

While I was up there, an old monk was listening to the news on a radio. A very young child monk was there too. My guide and I sat with them for a bit in the shade of the temple.

The views of the Cambodian countryside from atop the limestone hill were stunning. It was hot, but the sun was behind clouds most of the day.

Looks like the Cambodians like their flourescent paints!

We returned to the entrance, where I bought a Kroma - the traditional Khmer checkered scarf.

I ate lunch at the same restaurant we sat at before the guided tour. Phi-lay recounted his experiences at age 16 of living through Pol Pot's era.

I had hoped to hear his personal story, but I wasn't sure how to bring it up. As it happened, he simply began to share it as I was munching on fried rice with egg.

Much of what he said mimicked the experiences I had been reading about in "First They Killed My Father." Of course, with 2 million people, or a quarter of the population, killed by execution, disease, and starvation, it shouldn't be a surprise.

Part of me wanted to take notes, but there was just too much I'd wanted to write down, so I sat and listened.

He mentioned having to scrounge for bugs to eat, the constant hunger, and that much of his family died. He was in the hospital more than once, and on two occasions for more than six months at a time.

His hair fell out. His skin flaked off. In the rainy season, he worked with water up to his chest. And when he got something akin to porridge to eat, the water was so high that it mixed in with it while he was trying to eat.

In the fields, he'd drink groundwater contaminated with nearby cow feces. His face scrunched up in disgust as he talked about these horrifying realities. He also spent nine years in a Thai refugee camp.

The topic of scorpions arose somehow (probably by me, as I am still trying to complete the longstanding dare to eat one), and he offered to take me past a bug stand on the way back to the hotel.

Along the way, we passed the Governor's (old, and adjacent new) homes. Then the bugs, but no scorpions, were to be found. Phi-lay suggested they might be out of season due to the rains.

I figured, if I were ever going to have a chance at eating the elusive scorpion, then I'd better get some practice with smaller critters. My left leg trembled as I mustered the sober courage to munch the little buggers piled up before me.

Phi-lay was standing by, ready to snap photos, while the two Cambodians behind the stand quietly observed the show. I tried a small black bug first, followed by a big grasshopper with a peanut shoved up its butt.

They were both crunchy and not too flavorful, except for the grasshopper, whose saving grace was the noticeable peanut taste.

Then the topic of eating dog came up (probably by me again). Phi-lay responded with a recommendation, and I saw a completed dare within my sights.

The Boat To Battambang

I managed to get up at 5:30am, get picked up at 6am, and reach Battambang by boat. It took 7 hours. The first few hours were very scenic and pretty, as we crossed one of Asia's biggest lakes, and motored through a bird sanctuary. I had some energy and it wasn't too hot. After 4 hours, I was starting to tire.

We had a 15-minute lunch stop on a floating restaurant, and then it was back on the boat. At that point, a couple recognized me from Nepal. We had both stayed at the same guest house in Chomrung during our Annapurna Sanctuary treks.

Post-lunch sections of the waterway were narrow, requiring we lower curtains on both sides of the boat to prevent decapitation by branches. During these sections, it was darker and hotter within the boat. The dim orange lighting, combined with shadows and the sound of bushes scraping against the curtains likened the atmosphere to that of a slasher movie.

We passed through tons of floating villages. Almost all of the houses were floating, on stilts, or actually converted boats. Little kids would wave from homes, boats, rooftops, and the shore. A few even blew us kisses. I waved back a lot.

Despite the long day, the boat trip was a great way to gain exposure to rural Cambodian life.

A Day In Siem Reap

Another Day In Camobida is a tourist-aimed booklet which highlights organizations whose support can directly benefit the local community. I decided to spend a morning visiting such places around Siem Reap. Below is the related entry from my journal.

_______________________________

Been a good day so far. Met and ate breakfast with a New Zealand girl at the Butterfly Garden. (The restaurant pays local kids to collect butterflies for its garden. I arrived too early to see the kids set the day's batch free.)

Was the first tourist to visit the newly opened visitor center at Angkor Childrens Hospital. They were still putting the finishing touches on it. The Manager was an Asian-American woman. The center's architect is from New York City, and just designed a new building in Bryant Park. (The hospital offers free care to children from all over Cambodia. It is staffed by Cambodian doctors and nurses.)

I donated $30 at Handicap International. The facility looked really basic, but it's free to Cambodians, transport, dorms, food, physical rehab, prosthesis, because those affected are often poor rural farmers. (The facility helps Cambodians affected predominantly by landmine and UXO (unexploded ordinance) explosions. Among the recent homemade prosthesis made by the injured before they could visit the center were a few examples which literally incorporated the metal shells from bombs. The examples shown in the photo were no more than a few years old.)

The Angkor Museum was opened in 2007. It was huge, empty of tourists, but well designed and worth a visit I thought. There was a good energy in the room/exhibit with 1,000 Buddha statues. You could feel it, as long as you were open to it.

And lunch of ostrich near Pub Street before an internet/writing session. I'm 99% sure my ASUS AC adapter broke again, and after paying $40 for a new one, and having it less than one week. I'm pissed off about that. I'm going to have to haul the computer around through Cambodia, Laos, and northern Thailand for another six weeks before going back to Bangkok and visiting the service center for a replacement. If that one breaks, I'm going to forget about it for the rest of the trip.

As Alice had left in the morning, it was down to Ross, Sandy and myself for dinner. Afterwards, Sandy and I headed to the night market as I searched for a scorpion to eat (no luck). Then, we went to the guest house of an Austrian she had met a few nights prior, where we encountered a favorite scene of mine. A small table in an quiet restaurant, a few well-seasoned backpackers from different countries, and a free-flowing exchange of travel tales. We talked for about three hours before calling it a night.

Playing Lara Croft At Ta Prohm

I met Alice at 8:30 am, ate a great, fluffy banana pancake, and headed off to meet Phillip and Sandy. We spent almost two hours exploring Ta Prohm, better known as the "Tomb Raider" temple, where scenes for the video game-inspired movie starring Angelina Jolie were shot.

It was my favorite temple of the two days because it hadn't been cleaned up. The jungle and its giant trees were still asserting themselves over crumbling stone walls. We had fun exploring the interior and taking campy photos.

The heat and humidity soon got to me. We visited one or two more temples nearby, and then got lunch at a local restaurant where our hostess/waitress was a young girl, no more than 12 or 13.

Phillip commented that the service was better than at some places in Germany, and while I thought it was good too, there was no getting around the sense that kids have to grow up a little too soon in this country.

I bought a copy of Lonely Planet Laos for $5 because I don't like the Lonely Planet Southeast Asia On A Shoestring. I wanted to lessen my dependence on guidebooks after Thailand, but it was too vague, and there were far too many jokes.

I know I'm not suppose to climb on the ruins but.....

The target audience was 18-25 year olds, and I'm approaching 32. If anything, I realized an appreciation for the country-specific guides I'd been using until now.

I also bought a copy of "First They Killed My Father" by Loung Ung. I purposefully waited until arriving in Cambodia to start reading about the Khmer Rouge.

A few local kids following Alice outside a temple

In the evening, Phillip and I ate near the hotel, at one of the many great restaurants. He was the first to leave our little group, heading down to Phnom Penh in the morning.

Hanging out with a German meant I wasn't about to escape a few beers. The first two were my idea to ensure he wasn't drinking alone, but the third was only at his insistence.

Exploring Angkor Wat And Bayon

We slept late, meeting downstairs at 10:30am for brunch before negotiating two motorbike-driven tuk-tuks for two days ($50 total).

The lead driver, Mr. Meth, like the hotel, was a recommendation from Ross who had visited Siem Reap once before.

At the ticket gate, which was eerily empty, we all got 3-day passes as it was no cheaper to buy two separate day passes.

Heading to Angkor Wat? Book a top-rated hostel here

Angkor Wat is BIG. It is the world's largest religious building and the primary attraction for most visitors to Cambodia.

We took lots of concept photos which was fun.

Bayon was the temple with all the stone-carved faces. I enjoyed walking through it more than Angkor Wat, perhaps because it was smaller, and the 216 faces seemed more engaging than bas-reliefs.

Sunset from atop a temple was anti-climactic, too many clouds and tourists, but it still offered great 360-degree views of the landscape.

I was showing Sandy photos of India when we heard a collective gasp as the sun fell behind thick clouds, extinguishing people's hopes of a dramatic and colorful conclusion to their day.

Throughout our tour of temples, we were approached by young kids to buy cheap, copy Lonely Planet guidebooks for Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam, as well as copies of top selling books on the Khmer Rouge and genocide.

At times, it was overbearing, especially as heat and fatigue began to take its toll. We all did our best to be friendly as they followed us around.

Sandy and Phillip planned to wake up in the pre-dawn hours to catch the sunrise from another location, while Alice and I declined in favor of precious sleep.

My Holiday In Cambodia

Well you'll work harder
With a gun in your back
For a bowl of rice a day
Slave for soldiers
Till you starve
Then your head is skewered on a stake

Now you can go where people are one
Now you can go where they get things done
What you need, my son.

Is a holiday in Cambodia
Where people dress in black
A holiday in Cambodia
Where you'll kiss ass or crack

--- The Dead Kennedys

Note: Twenty years ago, my childhood friend Jeff introduced me to the early 80's political-punk band The Dead Kennedys. One of their most popular songs, " Holiday In Cambodia,"? recounts the terrifying reign of Pol Pot during the genocide of the late 1970's. I became aware of Cambodia's sad and recent history as a result of this song rather than any discussions or reading from school.

I managed a few hours sleep the night before departing for the Thai-Cambodia border. A mix of excitement and anxiety usually makes sleep a luxury before entering a new country. In the morning, I got a front row seat on the double-decker bus for the first time. While the exterior was freshly painted with a Winnie the Pooh theme, the interior clearly showed the age of the vehicle.

Another reason I sat in the front with the older white guys and their Thai lady friends was to gain space from other backpackers. I wanted time to process and appreciate the past few weeks, and new friendships would accelerate, if not eliminate, that opportunity (as it has many times in the past on this trip).

After a few hours, we stopped for lunch while still in Thailand. I met Sandy and Alice from Melbourne, Australia. (Note: I'm a sucker for Australian accents.) We sat together at a dinner break too, along with Ross from Miami.

The difference in wealth and infrastructure upon crossing the border was very noticeable. My first images of Cambodia reminded me of India. The road from the border to Siem Reap was mostly dirt. Slow going. 11.5 hours of total transit time from Bangkok departure to Siem Reap arrival.

By dinner, I had decided that touring Angkor Wat was the type of activity I'd best enjoy with company, and thus Alice, Sandy, myself, and Phillip (Germany) stayed at the same hotel, and made plans to arrange tuk-tuks the next morning. So much for taking time to process recent events.

Even though a single was only $5, I took Phillip up on his offer to share a room, something I hadn't done since Steve and I first arrived on Thong Nai Pan Noi (beach) in Koh Phangan six weeks prior.

Final Thoughts: Thailand (Bangkok and Islands)

Thailand was to be a crown jewel in my round the world adventures. Coming off three months in Nepal and India, and four months since leaving the beaches of Bali, I longed for a tropical paradise where the food was divine, the people friendly, the transportation easy, and the views perfect. I experienced all I'd hoped for and more, as has often been the case in the past 10 months.

Highlights -

Comfortable, cool deluxe airport bus
Walking down Th Kho San Road for the first time, fresh off the plane
The Royal Palace complex
Completing the motorbike dare
Eating amazing Thai food - wherever, whenever, and often!
Stepping onto beautiful Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui for the first time (and my bungalow)

Chilling on Chaweng Beach: reading "Scar Tissue" and "Do Travel Writers Go To Hell," listening to Ark Bar's music at sunset, dining on the beach, lighting a traditional lantern, watching fireworks go off
Sea kayaking Ang Thong National Marine Park (and jumping off the big boat)

My bungalow's porch view of the action on Koh Phangan's full moon beach
Partying every night on Haad Rin - fire dancers, watching fire jump rope
Meeting new people including Warren from Cape Town, and an old friend (Steve - our third time in three separate countries)
Watching Family Guy at the restaurant that played it 24x7
Dancing and staying up all night for July's Full Moon Party
Getting fluorescent flames painted on my head

Escaping to the solitude of Thong Nai Pan Noi
Thai massages
Completing the unsettling ladyboy dare
Watching a few hours of Muay Thai kickboxing

Meeting Nienke and Elizabeth (Holland) and Christine and Diana (Germany)
The boat ride to and from Burma to extend my Thai visa
The boat ride to and from Koh Phayam, and being willing to follow a lead to an undeveloped island even if it was a ghost town upon arrival

Staying at the On On Hotel in Phuket Town for a few nights
Patong Beach at sunset
Firing my first gun, a 9mm
Speedboat ride to James Bond Island, and other spots of interest

The rooftop ferry ride to Koh Phi Phi Don
Getting to know Josi and Catharine (Canada) over dinner on Long Beach and a stunning sunset
Taking an early morning longboat to the Koh Phi Phi Leh, landing on an empty Maya Bay ("the beach"), and swimming in the beautiful surroundings
My air-conditioned, ultra-comfortable room in the village of Koh Phi Phi Don
Hanging out with Josi and Catharine on the Phi Phi's main beach
Meeting laid back, uber-friendly, fellow travel blogger Nate
Getting a bird's eye view of the island from a scenic viewpoint at sunset
Sleeping on the roof of the decrepit overnight ferry to Koh Tao
Full day snorkel and island tour of Koh Tao
A confident and comfortable return to Bangkok and Th Kho San Road
Getting a new AC adapter from the ASUS service center
Listening to music with Josi and Catharine on our last night together (it helped that it was all *awesome* music from my MP3 player of course)
The fast connection speeds and big monitors at internet cafes
And lastly...a few other experiences I'm not going to share!

Lowlights -

Feeling lonely during my first week in the country (I know it comes with the territory, but it still doesn't feel good at the time!)
My laptop's AC adapter breaking on Koh Phangan
Accidentally breaking my second camera of the trip
The late July Half Moon Party
Getting sick on Phuket, not fully trusting the first doctor I saw, feeling fatigued and anxious

Eating -

Red/green/yellow/panang curry with chicken and steamed rice (medium spicy), chicken vindaloo, prawns, fresh whole snapper, pineapple, watermelon, mango, bananas, cheeseburgers, Hawaiian pizzas, fresh orange or coconut juice, coconut shakes (to die for), ice coffees (got hooked on them thanks to Steve), Cornetto's chocolate and brownie ice cream cones, lots and lots of SINGHA beer. :)

# of Days Couchsurfing -

Average Cost Per Day -

$52

Let's Eat Durian And Say Goodbye

I was glad to have my errands, grooming, and party night out of the way the day before taking the bus to Cambodia.

Being free to do nothing is right up this backpacker's alley.

In the evening, Josi, Catharine and I met up for dinner at the popular open-air restaurant next to our hotel on Soi Rambuttri. I needed to savor one last chicken curry.

I think I went with yellow, after having red for lunch. Catharine retired early, while Josi and I hung out a little longer.

On our walk down Kho San Road, I noticed a Durian vendor. I enjoyed the fleshy fruit for the first time in Singapore, so I bought some to eat on our way back to the hotel.

The street vendors in Bangkok are wonderfully clean and appealing, so it would've been a crime to not take advantage of the perfectly wrapped offerings.

Sticking my fingers into the mush that is the Durian fruit, savoring it along with two months of amazing memories, I surely had a big smile on my face.

Josi didn't get away without trying some too. She likened it to the taste of pineapple with the texture of mango.

Before parting ways, Catharine got her second wind, and the three of us listened to music until two minutes to midnight.

The girls had an early flight home in a few hours while I'd be on the long bus to Siem Reap, Cambodia!

Party Time...Excellent!

I know it might sound like my time in Thailand has been one big party...or day at the beach...but really...the country can do that to a guy (or girl)!

Once the Germans returned to Bangkok, we had a night on the town, though technically we didn't go further than Kho San Road.

Josi and Catharine were a big influence on me during my second visit to Bangkok. After watching them buy countless shirts, I gave in and bought a few too. Specifically, I was excited to buy an old school Bones Brigade shirt I'd seen upon my first walk down the road. We're each sporting some of our new attire in the photo above.

After a few drinks and dancing in a bar filled with too many of Thailand's working women, my night came to a close with a classic late night walk down Kho San stuffing chicken pad thai into my mouth. Yummy.

Back To Bangkok

For better or worse (mostly worse), I drank my share of drinks our last night on Koh Tao, leaving me extremely tired the following morning. The sunburn was sucking the life out of me too, and I was no closer to getting over the cold I'd picked up a few days earlier.

Burnt to a crisp, the fast ferry's rooftop views were sacrificed for the lightly chilled air of the main deck. The Ben Stiller movie about spending a night in a lively museum played on the plasma TV screen. Upon arrival on the mainland, we geared up for the overnight bus ride back to Bangkok. My bus buddy, as Josie called the people we sat next to, was a German stewardess from Frankfort with Lufthansa, which reminded me of Christina from Koh Phangan. She said, and is it little wonder, that Bangkok is a very popular vacation spot for airline workers because of the super cheap rates they get to such a major airline hub.

Back in Bangkok, while Josie and Catharine pillaged the city's shopping markets, I had extra pages added to my passport, a free service provided by American embassies, and finally bought a new AC adapter from the ASUS service center.

My endgame was playing out well. After two months in Thailand, I was itching to feel the rush of entering a new country, and Cambodia was in my sights.

7 Hours Of Fun, Sun, And Snorkeling

We were picked up bright and early at 8am for a full day in the sun. The taxis on Koh Tao consisted of pick-up trucks with seats. No roof, no backing to the seats to prevent you from tumbling off on curves. As we neared the snorkel shop to collect our gear, more and more pick-ups joined the caravan.

Our plan worked, and while the masses headed to a large boat at the pier, Catharine, Josi, myself, a young British couple, and three other (non-talkative) European girls boarded a longboat and zipped off in a counterclockwise direction around the island.

We stopped at about five different snorkeling locations. The first one was the best in my opinion since it included the only sharks we'd see for the day. In fact, I saw six or seven black tip reef sharks of varying sizes scoot around the sea floor.

After the snorkeling stops, and a lunch of chicken fried rice aboard the boat, we motored to the north of the island and a secluded bay with a small sliver of a white sand beach set against large rocks. I got a bird's eye view of the scene by climbing up some very hot wooden stairs in the direction of a restaurant perched above the rocks. A resort of bungalows also sat on the hill.

Our final stop for the day was a small sand bar connecting three islands off the northwest coast. It was the postcard-perfect scene which was part of the reason I'd wanted to see Koh Tao. It took about ten minutes in the searing heat to reach the boulder-strewn top.

By then, I was out of steam. The sun, I'd learn after returning to my bungalow, had burnt my back. It seems as though the suntan spray worked fine where I was able to rub it into my shoulders, while my mid-to-lower back looked like a boiled lobster (sorry mom).

But before the discovery of a searing sunburn, I managed to enjoy a beer at the end of the tour. It was actually my second choice. The beach bar had run out of coconuts by late afternoon, if you can believe it.

Chillin' Like A Villian

By the time we arrived at Chalok Baan Kao Bay, the quiet southern beach on Koh Tao, the sun was peeking up over the island. Dead tired, we checked around the local dive shops for accommodation. The only available option was Tropicana, which was an original recommendation from Robin, one of the German guys we met en route. He had stayed there once before, and was returning with his friend to obtain open water certification.

After waiting for a few hours, we all got rooms at Tropicana which featured beautiful gardens, and a comfortable restaurant. I opted for the one available bungalow as my island life in Thailand was about to wind down.

Sunset

It was a quiet day for everyone. Sleep, internet, trips to 7-11. Josi, Catharine and I all booked a full day snorkel/island tour for the next day. We opted for the longboat, not because it was cheaper, but because we expected it to be a better experience with fewer people than the big boats.

The Overnight Ferry To Koh Tao

The plan had always been to try my hand at rock climbing in Krabi before leaving the south of Thailand.

Those plans changed when I wasn't yet ready to say goodbye to Josi and Catharine.

I knew Steve (from London...we last hung out on Koh Phangan) would understand.

He'd become a rock-climbing fiend there and was even on his way to Koh Phi Phi Don on a field trip the same day I was leaving.

Roof of ferry from Koh Phi Phi Don to Krabi

Josi, Catharine, and I sat on the ferry's roof for the two-hour ride to the mainland.

It was reminiscent of the first time we met (all four days ago, but it felt longer).

Once we arrived at the Krabi port, it was time for everyone to get their backpacks.

Given we were some of the first people on the ferry, our packs were at the bottom, though somehow the girls managed to position theirs in such a way that they were able to get them out quickly.

Mine, on the other hand, was as far lost as a backpack could be. A little patience was required, and it was eventually uncovered.

We boarded the shuttle to the travel agency, where we had a short wait for the minivan that was to drive us to the night ferry.

Note: Nowadays, it's easier than ever to book bus-ferry and ferry trips to Koh Tao. Visit Bookaway to start your search.

The drive was longer than I think we all expected. There were two Italian guys, two German guys (Robin and Martin), one unknown guy, and the three of us.

The German contingent was picked up first, and they had laid claim to the front row of seats with the most legroom.

Four to six hours later, we arrived at our sad-looking night ferry. It was probably a good thing we didn't see it in daylight.

I might not have had the confidence to board it. There were mattresses set up inside and even fans to keep things cool; however, I was drawn to the roof.

Ten years ago, on my travels through western Europe, I heard about the overnight ferries from Italy to Greece.

I had chosen to visit Ireland instead. While I had a nauseating experience on my giant car ferry from England to Ireland, it didn't match the romantic image I had developed in my mind of the one to Greece.

Catharine reacts to the sleeping conditions like a champ

We were delayed about an hour from embarking because the electronic lift to pull up the main door on the lower level of the ferry broke.

A group of Thais began to analyze the mechanical dilemma before them.

The door was too heavy to be pulled up by people alone, so it was determined that the giant yellow crane would be used.

Several of us watched the first attempt from the roof. As the tension built in the steel cable, I held my breath.

Something broke, and a heavy metal piece of the rigging flew backward past some scooters which had not been moved out of the way.

By the second attempt, I was ducking farther out of view not to be decapitated by steel.

The bent and broken railing on the roof (shown in the photo above) illustrates similar situations that may have been more destructive to the ferry itself!

Amazingly, the second attempt worked, and the gate was slowly cranked upwards to a near-vertical position.

Catharine and I ended up sleeping on the roof, under the stars and moon, as we motored (verrrrry slowly) toward Koh Tao.

I didn't sleep at all, using only the provided pillow and blanket as my bedding.

To sleep would've been to miss the passing squid boats along the horizon...the clouds floating eerily past the bright moon...and our approach to the small island of Koh Tao before sunrise.

Last Day on Koh Phi Phi

Before those drinks with Nathan my last night, I'd spent the day in the shade, though I did stop by a beach restaurant for lunch to take in the views. Between rooftop ferry rides and baking under an umbrella on the sand, I needed the break.

I spent a few hours on the internet doing the often mundane acts of uploading photos and creating DVD back-ups to send home.

In the late afternoon, I met up with Catharine and Josie, and along with another French Canadian, we ascended the steep stairs and path to a scenic viewpoint.

The photo opportunities were great, though the sunset itself did not beat the one we saw our first night from Long Beach.

After the sunset, we headed back to town for dinner and a delicious Cornetto ice cream cone from 7-11. I'd been eating them daily for weeks, and Josie and Catharine affinity for them lessened my guilt. :)

Meeting The Ubertramp

Nathan, author of the Ubertramp travel blog, had suggested I stop by Viking Divers once I arrived on Koh Phi Phi Don so we could meet up. Given how much I'd enjoyed meeting other travel bloggers in New Zealand and Bali, I was excited to meet him.

I know being a dive instructor entails work, but it also seemed to entail a lot of hanging out in the dive shop, being available to answer questions from potential customers. And if you love to dive, and are working and living in one of the prettiest spots on Earth, then I'd imagine life is good.

After a few chats in the shop, I stopped by my last night on the island and we headed to the beach for a beer. Inevitably, we talked about our blogs and the ability to earn money through advertising. I also took the opportunity to confirm the family that controls much of the island (as referenced in The Lonely Planet) is basically the Thai mafia. They apparently have their hands in everything from resorts to the ferries. I also confirmed, as on Koh Phayam, that the Thai police are well aware of the drugs available/brought onto the islands, and as Nathan suggested, such information would allow them to know exactly what is going on and clamp down if deemed necessary. For some reason, I find these aspects of local life on the touristy islands fascinating.

Life's A Beach

I splurged on a new pair of sunglasses and met up with the girls at the beach. We spent a few hours going for swims, reading, and just staring out into the sea. I went back to my room to get a cold shower, and fully enjoy the air-conditioning. I ended up napping for awhile. I was probably dehydrated because I was low on energy. In the back of my mind, I was hoping not to have a recurrence of the hotel-bound Phuket days.

While I was napping, the girls went off to explore the lookout point, though they arrived after the sun had gone down. Meanwhile, I roused myself out of bed to hit the beach for yet another amazing sunset. The sky was filled with pinks and blues, though I was a bit bummed to have no one to share it with.

After sunset, I went back to my room where I met up with the girls. We went to dinner at Ciao Bella, an Italian restaurant on the beach. Along the way, we met up with another French Canadian. I had no appetite for the pizza or beer I ordered due to anxiety around my lack of energy. Lots of French was being spoken. My mind drifted around as I tried to involve myself in the conversation from time to time. The Canadian guy had been living in Hong Kong for four months, and was starved to speak some French with Josie and Catharine who were happy to oblige.

Later, I learned how little English Josie and Catharine would've been speaking if I weren't around, and I decided a pinch of patience during such occasions was within myself.

We watched a bit of the fire dancing on the beach (it never gets old) and I saw women doing it for the first time. The music was a bit too loud at some of the bars though.

Before retiring for the night, we stopped in at the island's reggae disco club which has a big Muay Thai ring where tourists can fight one another for a free drink. I found it rather obscene, and wondered why anyone would want to risk their health on vacation for such a stupid reason. We watched two tourist bouts - one was a draw after 3 rounds, and the other resulted in a win by an Israeli over an Italian.

Koh Phi Phi Don - Take 2

The longboat dropped us off along the more populated isthmus of Phi Phi and we headed into town, wet with sweat and saltwater. After receiving a tip from another traveler that most of the accommodation was of equal price and value, we went with air-conditioned rooms at his place. The tipping point was free internet, though we'd later find the catch was a sole computer with a 30 minute per day rule in a separate building adjacent to a construction site. The rooms were great though. My queen bed was wonderful, with big fluffy pillows and a soft comforter. A few cable TV channels and a fridge were included in the $24/night cost.

We settled in, got some brunch, and headed to the beach. To my surprise, the view was just as amazing as Maya Bay. Around sunset, I headed to the beach and found it to be low tide. Huge swaths of sand were uncovered while boats sat impotent, awaiting the water's return.

Locals were playing a soccer game on the uncovered sand, while tourists like me enjoyed a Singha, trying to absorb the absolute beauty of what was before us.

More Photos From Phi Phi Leh

Arriving to the beach in Maya Bay early paid off with great opportunities for photos sans speedboats.

I love this photo looking back at "the beach" from the longboat.

Maya Bay.

This one is of us approaching a beachless bay surrounded by tall limestone walls. I thought it was prettier than Maya Bay to be honest. And a great place for a swim!

If only my landing was as perfect as the water!

Josie and I.

Finally....Maya Bay

After fueling up on Carnation Instant Breakfast with water (kindly provided by the Canadian contingent), we threw our packs into a longboat and motored toward Koh Phi Phi Leh at the early hour of 8am. The hope was to arrive at Maya Bay before an armada of tourist speedboats. The water was just rough enough to make the journey fun.

Our approach to the bay lead us along sheer vertical limestone walls. The anchor was thrown ashore, we hopped off, and had " the beach"? to ourselves. It was smaller than I expected, and there didn't seem to be any tall coconut palms curving out and over the sand. Despite my distorted expectations based on movie magic, Maya Bay was gorgeous. The sand was fine and white, the view out over the water amazing.

I walked off the beach on a little sandy path, and ran into a guy who had camped overnight. Apparently all the tour agencies offer it with drop off at 4pm and pick-up the next morning around 10am. I made a mental note to consider coming back in a few days to spend the night. The boatmen and girls wanted to head off again, so I took a quick swim, and we left as more boats started appearing.

The first snorkel stop was rough. I wasn't paying attention to the current, and after a few minutes in the water, I was 10-20 meters from the longboat. There was only one pair of flippers available, and I didn't have them, so my attempts to swim back were in vain. My preoccupation with not drowning meant I wasn't having much fun snorkeling. It was a short stop though, so I waved to the boat to pick me up and we continued our island tour by visiting a secluded bay enclosed in limestone walls.

We took a few leaps from the boat and swam around the turquoise waters. The second and final snorkel stop featured calmer waters and lots of little fishies.

I was a lucky guy to be sharing paradise with Josie and Katharine.

Making New Friends On The Phi Phi Ferry

There were only two people on the ferry's roof before me, and while I wouldn't have guessed it at the time, they were to be the fun company I'd keep through the end of my second month in Thailand.

I sat down under one of only two spots of small shade, and was asked where I was from by one of them. The never-fail travel icebreaker set off a casual conversation that lasted much of the hour and a half ferry ride from Phuket to Koh Phi Phi Don. As we cruised along under the intense tropical sun, passing beautiful islands set in blue waters, I got to know Josiane and Katharine from Quebec, Canada. They were on a 6-week trip which began in Malaysia where they placed 6^th in their class at the world championships of dragon boat racing. Josie was a sport nutritionist who worked with athletes, including Olympians competing in Beijing as we spoke. Katharine was a social worker. As a reminder, I'm in my 9^th month of unemployment.

The girls were headed to Long Beach, a short longboat ride from main pier on Koh Phi Phi. Far less developed than the isthmus of the island, it offers perfect views of Koh Phi Phi Leh (the island featured in The Beach movie). I'd wanted to arrive on a beach by longboat since Koh Phangan, so I decided to join them. Besides, Long Beach looked like paradise from the ferry, whereas I could only see a congested bay from the main pier.

We set aground on the beach, booked rustic bamboo bungalows, and explored our surroundings. I went for a swim, only to find a lot of rocks. The view of Koh Phi Phi Leh was perfect though. This must have been the beach from which they shot movie scenes as the characters contemplated their swim to the secret island.

We enjoyed a great dinner on the beach at sunset.

I was blown away by the amazing sunset that first night. I was taken aback by the images I saw on my camera. I can guarantee the sky was not on fire as it appears in the photo above.

Meanwhile, the view of sunset over Phi Phi Leh was slightly less dramatic. The girls found the bungalows a little too basic, and given there was nothing to do at night, we decided to take a longboat to Koh Phi Phi Leh for an island tour in the morning, and get dropped off at the main pier to seek a more sociable scene.

The fact that a roach crawled up my stomach in the middle of the night only served to reinforce my worst nightmares, and the need for some concrete walls.

Visiting James Bond Island by Speedboat

I was nodding off at the Banana's Tacos bar while waiting for my transport to the Phuket pier for the James Bond Island tour.

Phuket offers many activities and attractions for tourists such as this.

You can even find affordable timeshare rentals in Phuket, perfect for tourists who no longer want to stay in luxury hotels and resorts.

I started to wonder whether I'd have the physical energy to enjoy the tour.

Waiting for the van to pick me up made me feel nervous.

I was thinking about whether it'd arrive too late, if I'd miss my tour, and if I'd still have time to enjoy everything Phuket has to offer.

Finally, with some phone support from the hotel staff, a taxi arrived an hour late to pick me up.

I've appreciated the hospitality of the locals on Phuket while I've been sick.

Their support has helped me ward off the nervousness I felt earlier in the trip and made me look forward to what lies ahead.

I was the last to arrive at the boat, and then we sped off in beautiful waters.

I was excited for a new adventure, zooming between the many islands around Phuket.

Sure, I've traveled to countless cities and countries before, but it's always a thrill to ride in a speedboat, and I knew it'd make my trip to Phuket more memorable.

The speedboat could hold 50 people; however, we lucked out with about half that many.

The smaller group made it easier for everyone to move around and enjoy the gorgeous views.

There were young guys from Dubai and India, an older Indian couple, some Polish and Australians, and a Saudia Arabian couple on honeymoon.

The woman was dressed from head to ankle in a black burka. Meanwhile, her husband looked like a typical westerner in shorts and a t-shirt.

Visiting Ko Ta Pu, aka James Bond Island, in Thailand — Me and James Bond Island

The efficiency of the tour amazed me. The Thai tourism industry seems to operate with military precision (save forgetting to pick me up earlier in the morning).

The knowledgable and friendly guide riding in the speedboat with us explained everything we saw and was happy to take our questions.

The highlight of the tour through Phang-Nga Bay is a visit to Ko Ta Pu, aka James Bond Island, which received its nickname after being featured in the 1974 Roger Moore movie "The Man With The Golden Gun."

Since making its Hollywood debut in the movie, this island has become popular with international tourists, myself included.

James Bond Island is about 20 meters (66 feet) tall and lies about 40 meters off shore.

Since 1998, in an effort to conserve this unique island, it has been forbidden to approach it by boat.

After our photo session at James Bond Island, we headed to lunch at Koh Panyee Island, a floating village with restaurants built over water.

Aside from the unique architecture, the restaurants on the island are also known to serve the best local dishes.

To save time, lunch was already laid out for us upon arrival. Eat, eat, talk, talk, and we're speeding off to Tham Lod for sea kayaking.

Unlike my tour of Ang Thong Marine Park, we didn't paddle our kayaks.

I paired up with an Australian, and we were guided around some islands and mangroves for an hour.

It was a different experience to have my feet up, and hands-free to take photos and accept the beer bought for me by the Australian.

As they say in Thailand, "same same but different."

By the time we got to Naka Island for a swim on a beautiful, undeveloped beach, it was pouring rain.

Getting in the water was still a more delightful way to spend the time than standing around on the wet boat, but it was a little less than idyllic.

There were a few minutes when I put my eyes at water level and watched the raindrops pelt the relatively flat surface.

It created a cool effect similar to the computer animations you can run with music.

Arriving back at Banana's Tacos, I felt good about the day's tour to James Bond Island and my health.

After spending two weeks in Patong, when my intention had been two days, I knew I had to take a leap of faith and leave at some point.

Time was running out on my second month in Thailand. It was time to see the much-lauded Koh Phi Phi Don.

A Second Opinion

Eleven days after first getting sick, and four days after my second visit to the doctor, my gut told me it was time for a second opinion. The antibiotics should've cleared up my illness within the first few days, and I'd never in my life felt such a lack of energy before. It worried me. For the first time in my trip, I checked the cost of flights home.

I got the name for the second medical clinic off of a tourist map. It was even closer to my hotel than the first one. When I stopped by, I was told the doctor was at the gym, and to come back in an hour. Later, I walked up and was greeted by a shirtless Thai doctor in his bathing suit. I believe it was his child and wife who sat with him on the patio table. He shook my hand, welcomed me by name, and ushered me inside.

I was shown to a room, and the doctor joined me after putting on a 20^th anniversary Reggae Pub t-shirt. I knew the place as it was across from Chaweng Beach on Koh Samui. The doctor leaned back in his chair, exuding confidence I desperately needed to feel by that point. His English was far better than the first doctor, and as I described my experience over the past two weeks, I began to feel better.

The second opinion was the infection was viral versus bacterial, which explains why the antibiotics weren't helping me. He said my throat looked fine (though in retrospect, perhaps it is possible that the medicine had already cleared up the problem by then if it really had been bacterial). He noted my blood pressure was abnormally low, not a problem I've had before. His suggested treatment was a shot of Cortisone (an anti-inflammatory) in the butt, along with a few days of anti-inflammatory pills and electrolyte powders for use with water.

I was not keen to accept an injection, but I was so tired of being tired, I yielded. To my surprise, a few hours later, I felt more energetic as he advised I would. The next day, I continued to feel the same way, so I booked a half-day speed boat trip to some nearby islands. If it went well, the plan was to head straight for the much smaller, idyllic Koh Phi Phi Don.

Adventures In Thai Medical Care

After taking the antibiotics given to me by the pharmacist for a few days, my fever had dissipated, and my headache improved, however I still felt tired and unwell. I decided to kick up my care a notch by visiting a local medical clinic. I got a referral from the reception at a big hotel, The Holiday Inn.

The doctor didn't speak much English, but we seemed to manage an exchange of the essential information. He, like me, figured the antibiotics from the pharmacy weren't working, so he gave me a 5-day course of Amoxicillin. The diagnosis was a throat infection after a quick peer down my gullet with a big, yellow plastic flashlight and metal tongue depressor. The visit ran me about $18, with the drugs another $30 or so.

I began taking the new antibiotics, and my headache cleared up completely, though I was still left with an overwhelming sense of exhaustion. Aside from meals, water/snack runs to 7-11, and a check of the internet, I spent my days in bed watching TV, reading or sleeping.

Five days passed, and I still felt stuck in a vicious cycle of sleep and exhaustion. I returned to the same doctor complaining of my lack of energy. He said my throat looked better, but had not completely improved yet. He gave me five more days of Amoxicillin, along with some vitamins and pills the pharmacy marked as " energy."?

By now, I was too tired to even wait around in a restaurant for food. I'd begun to get sandwiches from a local deli and Starbucks and bring them back to my room for consumption. One day I fell asleep at 3pm and didn't wake up until 8am the next morning. I'm no doctor, but 17 hours of sleep, and still waking up tired isn't normal.

I watched a nauseating amount of Fox News, developing a crush on spunky anchor Megyn Kelly. The movie channel offered needed respites with Failure to Launch, The Beach, Gladiator, and The Road to Guantanamo.

Falling Ill On Phuket

I decided to go out for a beer or two on my second night in Patong.

Banana's Tacos was situated on a street right across from Bangla Road, giving me instant access to the epicenter of nightlife on the island.

I walked up the road and along the strip across from the beach, eventually returning to an Irish pub on Bangla Road for a proper pint of Guinness on tap.

I was enticed by the live band playing an Irish tune, but after I got my drink, they went straight to cover songs like "Hotel California" and sadly, I felt the need to finish my precious draft beer quickly and get out of there.

I bought a Singha at a bar across the street from one of the many sections of go-go bars which were starting to attract crowds as midnight approached. It was a great spot from which to people watch.

Bangla Road is closed to traffic after 6 pm, and like everywhere else in Thailand, you can walk around with a beer in public (a nice freedom that is fun to appreciate from time to time).

After taking in the scene for a few songs on the bar stereo, I ordered another beer and started to walk again.

I felt unwell all of a sudden, so I chucked the half-empty beer at a 7-11, bought some water, and went back to my room.

I managed to develop a mild fever and a moderate headache that night.

Knowing a fever is a potential indicator of malaria, I sought some help the next morning by talking to the hotel staff.

One woman, in particular, suggested I start with a specific pharmacy. I went there and was given antibiotics for a suspected infection.

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