Thailand was to be a crown jewel in my round the world adventures.  Coming off three months in Nepal and India, and four months since leaving the beaches of Bali, I longed for a tropical paradise where the food was divine, the people friendly, the transportation easy, and the views perfect.  I experienced all I'd hoped for and more, as has often been the case in the past 10 months.

Highlights -

• Comfortable, cool deluxe airport bus
• Walking down Th Kho San Road for the first time, fresh off the plane
• The Royal Palace complex
• Completing the motorbike dare
• Eating amazing Thai food - wherever, whenever, and often!
• Stepping onto beautiful Chaweng Beach, Koh Samui for the first time (and my bungalow)

• Chilling on Chaweng Beach:  reading "Scar Tissue" and "Do Travel Writers Go To Hell," listening to Ark Bar's music at sunset, dining on the beach, lighting a traditional lantern, watching fireworks go off
• Sea kayaking Ang Thong National Marine Park (and jumping off the big boat)

• My bungalow's porch view of the action on Koh Phangan's full moon beach
• Partying every night on Haad Rin - fire dancers, watching fire jump rope
• Meeting new people including Warren from Cape Town, and an old friend (Steve -  our third time in three separate countries)
• Watching Family Guy at the restaurant that played it 24x7
• Dancing and staying up all night for July's Full Moon Party
• Getting fluorescent flames painted on my head

• Escaping to the solitude of Thong Nai Pan Noi
• Thai massages
• Completing the unsettling ladyboy dare
• Watching a few hours of Muay Thai kickboxing

• Meeting Nienke and Elizabeth (Holland) and Christine and Diana (Germany)
• The boat ride to and from Burma to extend my Thai visa
• The boat ride to and from Koh Phayam, and being willing to follow a lead to an undeveloped island even if it was a ghost town upon arrival

• Staying at the On On Hotel in Phuket Town for a few nights
• Patong Beach at sunset
• Firing my first gun, a 9mm
• Speedboat ride to James Bond Island, and other spots of interest

• The rooftop ferry ride to Koh Phi Phi Don
• Getting to know Josi and Catharine (Canada) over dinner on Long Beach and a stunning sunset
• Taking an early morning longboat to the Koh Phi Phi Leh, landing on an empty Maya Bay ("the beach"), and swimming in the beautiful surroundings
• My air-conditioned, ultra-comfortable room in the village of Koh Phi Phi Don
• Hanging out with Josi and Catharine on the Phi Phi's main beach
• Meeting laid back, uber-friendly, fellow travel blogger Nate
• Getting a bird's eye view of the island from a scenic viewpoint at sunset
• Sleeping on the roof of the decrepit overnight ferry to Koh Tao
• Full day snorkel and island tour of Koh Tao
• A confident and comfortable return to Bangkok and Th Kho San Road
• Getting a new AC adapter from the ASUS service center
• Listening to music with Josi and Catharine on our last night together (it helped that it was all *awesome* music from my MP3 player of course)
• The fast connection speeds and big monitors at internet cafes
• And lastly...a few other experiences I'm not going to share!

Lowlights -

• Feeling lonely during my first week in the country (I know it comes with the territory, but it still doesn't feel good at the time!)
• My laptop's AC adapter breaking on Koh Phangan
• Accidentally breaking my second camera of the trip
• The late July Half Moon Party
• Getting sick on Phuket, not fully trusting the first doctor I saw, feeling fatigued and anxious

Eating -

Red/green/yellow/panang curry with chicken and steamed rice (medium spicy), chicken vindaloo, prawns, fresh whole snapper, pineapple, watermelon, mango, bananas, cheeseburgers, Hawaiian pizzas, fresh orange or coconut juice, coconut shakes (to die for), ice coffees (got hooked on them thanks to Steve), Cornetto's chocolate and brownie ice cream cones, lots and lots of SINGHA beer.  :)

# of Days Couchsurfing - 

0

Average Cost Per Day -

$52

I know it might sound like my time in Thailand has been one big party...or day at the beach...but really...the country can do that to a guy (or girl)!

Once the Germans returned to Bangkok, we had a night on the town, though technically  we didn't go further than Kho San Road.

Josi and Catharine were a big influence on me during my second visit to Bangkok.  After watching them buy countless shirts, I gave in and bought a few too.  Specifically, I was excited to buy an old school Bones Brigade shirt I'd seen upon my first walk down the road.  We're each sporting some of our new attire in the photo above.

After a few drinks and dancing in a bar filled with too many of Thailand's working women, my night came to a close with a classic late night walk down Kho San stuffing chicken pad thai into my mouth.  Yummy.

For better or worse (mostly worse), I drank my share of drinks our last night on Koh Tao, leaving me extremely tired the following morning.  The sunburn was sucking the life out of me too, and I was no closer to getting over the cold I'd picked up a few days earlier.

Burnt to a crisp, the fast ferry's rooftop views were sacrificed for the lightly chilled air of the main deck.  The Ben Stiller movie about spending a night in a lively museum played on the plasma TV screen.  Upon arrival on the mainland, we geared up for the overnight bus ride back to Bangkok.  My bus buddy, as Josie called the people we sat next to, was a German stewardess from Frankfort with Lufthansa, which reminded me of Christina from Koh Phangan.  She said, and is it little wonder, that Bangkok is a very popular vacation spot for airline workers because of the super cheap rates they get to such a major airline hub.

Back in Bangkok, while Josie and Catharine pillaged the city's shopping markets, I had extra pages added to my passport, a free service provided by American embassies, and finally bought a new AC adapter from the ASUS service center.

My endgame was playing out well.  After two months in Thailand, I was itching to feel the rush of entering a new country, and Cambodia was in my sights.

We were picked up bright and early at 8am for a full day in the sun. The taxis on Koh Tao consisted of pick-up trucks with seats. No roof, no backing to the seats to prevent you from tumbling off on curves. As we neared the snorkel shop to collect our gear, more and more pick-ups joined the caravan.

Our plan worked, and while the masses headed to a large boat at the pier, Catharine, Josi, myself, a young British couple, and three other (non-talkative) European girls boarded a longboat and zipped off in a counterclockwise direction around the island.

We stopped at about five different snorkeling locations. The first one was the best in my opinion since it included the only sharks we'd see for the day. In fact, I saw six or seven black tip reef sharks of varying sizes scoot around the sea floor.

After the snorkeling stops, and a lunch of chicken fried rice aboard the boat, we motored to the north of the island and a secluded bay with a small sliver of a white sand beach set against large rocks. I got a bird's eye view of the scene by climbing up some very hot wooden stairs in the direction of a restaurant perched above the rocks. A resort of bungalows also sat on the hill.

Our final stop for the day was a small sand bar connecting three islands off the northwest coast. It was the postcard-perfect scene which was part of the reason I'd wanted to see Koh Tao. It took about ten minutes in the searing heat to reach the boulder-strewn top.

By then, I was out of steam. The sun, I'd learn after returning to my bungalow, had burnt my back. It seems as though the suntan spray worked fine where I was able to rub it into my shoulders, while my mid-to-lower back looked like a boiled lobster (sorry mom).

But before the discovery of a searing sunburn, I managed to enjoy a beer at the end of the tour. It was actually my second choice. The beach bar had run out of coconuts by late afternoon, if you can believe it.

By the time we arrived at Chalok Baan Kao Bay, the quiet southern beach on Koh Tao, the sun was peeking up over the island. Dead tired, we checked around the local dive shops for accommodation. The only available option was Tropicana, which was an original recommendation from Robin, one of the German guys we met en route. He had stayed there once before, and was returning with his friend to obtain open water certification.

After waiting for a few hours, we all got rooms at Tropicana which featured beautiful gardens, and a comfortable restaurant. I opted for the one available bungalow as my island life in Thailand was about to wind down.

It was a quiet day for everyone. Sleep, internet, trips to 7-11. Josi, Catharine and I all booked a full day snorkel/island tour for the next day. We opted for the longboat, not because it was cheaper, but because we expected it to be a better experience with fewer people than the big boats.

The plan had always been to try my hand at rock climbing in Krabi before leaving the south of Thailand.

Those plans changed when I wasn't yet ready to say goodbye to Josi and Catharine.

I knew Steve (from London...we last hung out on Koh Phangan) would understand.

He'd become a rock-climbing fiend there and was even on his way to Koh Phi Phi Don on a field trip the same day I was leaving.

Josi, Catharine, and I sat on the ferry's roof for the two-hour ride to the mainland.

It was reminiscent of the first time we met (all four days ago, but it felt longer).

Once we arrived at the Krabi port, it was time for everyone to get their backpacks.

Given we were some of the first people on the ferry, our packs were at the bottom, though somehow the girls managed to position theirs in such a way that they were able to get them out quickly.

Mine, on the other hand, was as far lost as a backpack could be. A little patience was required, and it was eventually uncovered.

We boarded the shuttle to the travel agency, where we had a short wait for the minivan that was to drive us to the night ferry.

Note: Nowadays, it's easier than ever to book bus-ferry and ferry trips to Koh Tao. Visit Bookaway to start your search.

The drive was longer than I think we all expected. There were two Italian guys, two German guys (Robin and Martin), one unknown guy, and the three of us.

The German contingent was picked up first, and they had laid claim to the front row of seats with the most legroom.

Four to six hours later, we arrived at our sad-looking night ferry. It was probably a good thing we didn't see it in daylight.

I might not have had the confidence to board it. There were mattresses set up inside and even fans to keep things cool; however, I was drawn to the roof.

Ten years ago, on my travels through western Europe, I heard about the overnight ferries from Italy to Greece.

I had chosen to visit Ireland instead. While I had a nauseating experience on my giant car ferry from England to Ireland, it didn't match the romantic image I had developed in my mind of the one to Greece.

We were delayed about an hour from embarking because the electronic lift to pull up the main door on the lower level of the ferry broke.

A group of Thais began to analyze the mechanical dilemma before them.

The door was too heavy to be pulled up by people alone, so it was determined that the giant yellow crane would be used.

Several of us watched the first attempt from the roof. As the tension built in the steel cable, I held my breath.

Something broke, and a heavy metal piece of the rigging flew backward past some scooters which had not been moved out of the way.

By the second attempt, I was ducking farther out of view not to be decapitated by steel.

The bent and broken railing on the roof (shown in the photo above) illustrates similar situations that may have been more destructive to the ferry itself!

Amazingly, the second attempt worked, and the gate was slowly cranked upwards to a near-vertical position.

Catharine and I ended up sleeping on the roof, under the stars and moon, as we motored (verrrrry slowly) toward Koh Tao.

I didn't sleep at all, using only the provided pillow and blanket as my bedding.

To sleep would've been to miss the passing squid boats along the horizon...the clouds floating eerily past the bright moon...and our approach to the small island of Koh Tao before sunrise.

Before those drinks with Nathan my last night, I'd spent the day in the shade, though I did stop by a beach restaurant for lunch to take in the views. Between rooftop ferry rides and baking under an umbrella on the sand, I needed the break.

I spent a few hours on the internet doing the often mundane acts of uploading photos and creating DVD back-ups to send home.

In the late afternoon, I met up with Catharine and Josie, and along with another French Canadian, we ascended the steep stairs and path to a scenic viewpoint.

The photo opportunities were great, though the sunset itself did not beat the one we saw our first night from Long Beach.

After the sunset, we headed back to town for dinner and a delicious Cornetto ice cream cone from 7-11. I'd been eating them daily for weeks, and Josie and Catharine affinity for them lessened my guilt. :)

Nathan, author of the Ubertramp travel blog, had suggested I stop by Viking Divers once I arrived on Koh Phi Phi Don so we could meet up. Given how much I'd enjoyed meeting other travel bloggers in New Zealand and Bali, I was excited to meet him.

I know being a dive instructor entails work, but it also seemed to entail a lot of hanging out in the dive shop, being available to answer questions from potential customers. And if you love to dive, and are working and living in one of the prettiest spots on Earth, then I'd imagine life is good.

After a few chats in the shop, I stopped by my last night on the island and we headed to the beach for a beer. Inevitably, we talked about our blogs and the ability to earn money through advertising. I also took the opportunity to confirm the family that controls much of the island (as referenced in The Lonely Planet) is basically the Thai mafia. They apparently have their hands in everything from resorts to the ferries. I also confirmed, as on Koh Phayam, that the Thai police are well aware of the drugs available/brought onto the islands, and as Nathan suggested, such information would allow them to know exactly what is going on and clamp down if deemed necessary. For some reason, I find these aspects of local life on the touristy islands fascinating.

I splurged on a new pair of sunglasses and met up with the girls at the beach. We spent a few hours going for swims, reading, and just staring out into the sea. I went back to my room to get a cold shower, and fully enjoy the air-conditioning. I ended up napping for awhile. I was probably dehydrated because I was low on energy. In the back of my mind, I was hoping not to have a recurrence of the hotel-bound Phuket days.

While I was napping, the girls went off to explore the lookout point, though they arrived after the sun had gone down. Meanwhile, I roused myself out of bed to hit the beach for yet another amazing sunset. The sky was filled with pinks and blues, though I was a bit bummed to have no one to share it with.

After sunset, I went back to my room where I met up with the girls. We went to dinner at Ciao Bella, an Italian restaurant on the beach. Along the way, we met up with another French Canadian. I had no appetite for the pizza or beer I ordered due to anxiety around my lack of energy.  Lots of French was being spoken. My mind drifted around as I tried to involve myself in the conversation from time to time. The Canadian guy had been living in Hong Kong for four months, and was starved to speak some French with Josie and Catharine who were happy to oblige.

Later, I learned how little English Josie and Catharine would've been speaking if I weren't around, and I decided a pinch of patience during such occasions was within myself.

We watched a bit of the fire dancing on the beach (it never gets old) and I saw women doing it for the first time. The music was a bit too loud at some of the bars though.

Before retiring for the night, we stopped in at the island's reggae disco club which has a big Muay Thai ring where tourists can fight one another for a free drink. I found it rather obscene, and wondered why anyone would want to risk their health on vacation for such a stupid reason. We watched two tourist bouts - one was a draw after 3 rounds, and the other resulted in a win by an Israeli over an Italian.

The longboat dropped us off along the more populated isthmus of Phi Phi and we headed into town, wet with sweat and saltwater. After receiving a tip from another traveler that most of the accommodation was of equal price and value, we went with air-conditioned rooms at his place. The tipping point was free internet, though we'd later find the catch was a sole computer with a 30 minute per day rule in a separate building adjacent to a construction site. The rooms were great though. My queen bed was wonderful, with big fluffy pillows and a soft comforter. A few cable TV channels and a fridge were included in the $24/night cost.

We settled in, got some brunch, and headed to the beach. To my surprise, the view was just as amazing as Maya Bay. Around sunset, I headed to the beach and found it to be low tide. Huge swaths of sand were uncovered while boats sat impotent, awaiting the water's return.

Locals were playing a soccer game on the uncovered sand, while tourists like me enjoyed a Singha, trying to absorb the absolute beauty of what was before us.

Arriving to the beach in Maya Bay early paid off with great opportunities for photos sans speedboats.

I love this photo looking back at "the beach" from the longboat.

Maya Bay.

This one is of us approaching a beachless bay surrounded by tall limestone walls. I thought it was prettier than Maya Bay to be honest. And a great place for a swim!

If only my landing was as perfect as the water!

Josie and I.

After fueling up on Carnation Instant Breakfast with water (kindly provided by the Canadian contingent), we threw our packs into a longboat and motored toward Koh Phi Phi Leh at the early hour of 8am. The hope was to arrive at Maya Bay before an armada of tourist speedboats. The water was just rough enough to make the journey fun.

Our approach to the bay lead us along sheer vertical limestone walls. The anchor was thrown ashore, we hopped off, and had " the beach"? to ourselves. It was smaller than I expected, and there didn't seem to be any tall coconut palms curving out and over the sand. Despite my distorted expectations based on movie magic, Maya Bay was gorgeous. The sand was fine and white, the view out over the water amazing.

I walked off the beach on a little sandy path, and ran into a guy who had camped overnight. Apparently all the tour agencies offer it with drop off at 4pm and pick-up the next morning around 10am. I made a mental note to consider coming back in a few days to spend the night. The boatmen and girls wanted to head off again, so I took a quick swim, and we left as more boats started appearing.

The first snorkel stop was rough. I wasn't paying attention to the current, and after a few minutes in the water, I was 10-20 meters from the longboat. There was only one pair of flippers available, and I didn't have them, so my attempts to swim back were in vain. My preoccupation with not drowning meant I wasn't having much fun snorkeling. It was a short stop though, so I waved to the boat to pick me up and we continued our island tour by visiting a secluded bay enclosed in limestone walls.

We took a few leaps from the boat and swam around the turquoise waters. The second and final snorkel stop featured calmer waters and lots of little fishies.

I was a lucky guy to be sharing paradise with Josie and Katharine.

There were only two people on the ferry's roof before me, and while I wouldn't have guessed it at the time, they were to be the fun company I'd keep through the end of my second month in Thailand.

I sat down under one of only two spots of small shade, and was asked where I was from by one of them. The never-fail travel icebreaker set off a casual conversation that lasted much of the hour and a half ferry ride from Phuket to Koh Phi Phi Don. As we cruised along under the intense tropical sun, passing beautiful islands set in blue waters, I got to know Josiane and Katharine from Quebec, Canada. They were on a 6-week trip which began in Malaysia where they placed 6^th in their class at the world championships of dragon boat racing. Josie was a sport nutritionist who worked with athletes, including Olympians competing in Beijing as we spoke. Katharine was a social worker. As a reminder, I'm in my 9^th month of unemployment.

The girls were headed to Long Beach, a short longboat ride from main pier on Koh Phi Phi. Far less developed than the isthmus of the island, it offers perfect views of Koh Phi Phi Leh (the island featured in The Beach movie). I'd wanted to arrive on a beach by longboat since Koh Phangan, so I decided to join them. Besides, Long Beach looked like paradise from the ferry, whereas I could only see a congested bay from the main pier.

We set aground on the beach, booked rustic bamboo bungalows, and explored our surroundings. I went for a swim, only to find a lot of rocks. The view of Koh Phi Phi Leh was perfect though. This must have been the beach from which they shot movie scenes as the characters contemplated their swim to the secret island.

We enjoyed a great dinner on the beach at sunset.

I was blown away by the amazing sunset that first night. I was taken aback by the images I saw on my camera. I can guarantee the sky was not on fire as it appears in the photo above.

Meanwhile, the view of sunset over Phi Phi Leh was slightly less dramatic. The girls found the bungalows a little too basic, and given there was nothing to do at night, we decided to take a longboat to Koh Phi Phi Leh for an island tour in the morning, and get dropped off at the main pier to seek a more sociable scene.

The fact that a roach crawled up my stomach in the middle of the night only served to reinforce my worst nightmares, and the need for some concrete walls.

Eleven days after first getting sick, and four days after my second visit to the doctor, my gut told me it was time for a second opinion. The antibiotics should've cleared up my illness within the first few days, and I'd never in my life felt such a lack of energy before. It worried me. For the first time in my trip, I checked the cost of flights home.

I got the name for the second medical clinic off of a tourist map. It was even closer to my hotel than the first one. When I stopped by, I was told the doctor was at the gym, and to come back in an hour. Later, I walked up and was greeted by a shirtless Thai doctor in his bathing suit. I believe it was his child and wife who sat with him on the patio table. He shook my hand, welcomed me by name, and ushered me inside.

I was shown to a room, and the doctor joined me after putting on a 20^th anniversary Reggae Pub t-shirt. I knew the place as it was across from Chaweng Beach on Koh Samui. The doctor leaned back in his chair, exuding confidence I desperately needed to feel by that point. His English was far better than the first doctor, and as I described my experience over the past two weeks, I began to feel better.

The second opinion was the infection was viral versus bacterial, which explains why the antibiotics weren't helping me. He said my throat looked fine (though in retrospect, perhaps it is possible that the medicine had already cleared up the problem by then if it really had been bacterial). He noted my blood pressure was abnormally low, not a problem I've had before. His suggested treatment was a shot of Cortisone (an anti-inflammatory) in the butt, along with a few days of anti-inflammatory pills and electrolyte powders for use with water.

I was not keen to accept an injection, but I was so tired of being tired, I yielded. To my surprise, a few hours later, I felt more energetic as he advised I would. The next day, I continued to feel the same way, so I booked a half-day speed boat trip to some nearby islands. If it went well, the plan was to head straight for the much smaller, idyllic Koh Phi Phi Don.

After taking the antibiotics given to me by the pharmacist for a few days, my fever had dissipated, and my headache improved, however I still felt tired and unwell. I decided to kick up my care a notch by visiting a local medical clinic. I got a referral from the reception at a big hotel, The Holiday Inn.

The doctor didn't speak much English, but we seemed to manage an exchange of the essential information. He, like me, figured the antibiotics from the pharmacy weren't working, so he gave me a 5-day course of Amoxicillin. The diagnosis was a throat infection after a quick peer down my gullet with a big, yellow plastic flashlight and metal tongue depressor. The visit ran me about $18, with the drugs another $30 or so.

I began taking the new antibiotics, and my headache cleared up completely, though I was still left with an overwhelming sense of exhaustion. Aside from meals, water/snack runs to 7-11, and a check of the internet, I spent my days in bed watching TV, reading or sleeping.

Five days passed, and I still felt stuck in a vicious cycle of sleep and exhaustion. I returned to the same doctor complaining of my lack of energy. He said my throat looked better, but had not completely improved yet. He gave me five more days of Amoxicillin, along with some vitamins and pills the pharmacy marked as " energy."?

By now, I was too tired to even wait around in a restaurant for food. I'd begun to get sandwiches from a local deli and Starbucks and bring them back to my room for consumption. One day I fell asleep at 3pm and didn't wake up until 8am the next morning. I'm no doctor, but 17 hours of sleep, and still waking up tired isn't normal.

I watched a nauseating amount of Fox News, developing a crush on spunky anchor Megyn Kelly. The movie channel offered needed respites with Failure to Launch, The Beach, Gladiator, and The Road to Guantanamo.

I decided to go out for a beer or two on my second night in Patong.

Banana's Tacos was situated on a street right across from Bangla Road, giving me instant access to the epicenter of nightlife on the island.

I walked up the road and along the strip across from the beach, eventually returning to an Irish pub on Bangla Road for a proper pint of Guinness on tap.

I was enticed by the live band playing an Irish tune, but after I got my drink, they went straight to cover songs like "Hotel California" and sadly, I felt the need to finish my precious draft beer quickly and get out of there.

I bought a Singha at a bar across the street from one of the many sections of go-go bars which were starting to attract crowds as midnight approached. It was a great spot from which to people watch.

Bangla Road is closed to traffic after 6 pm, and like everywhere else in Thailand, you can walk around with a beer in public (a nice freedom that is fun to appreciate from time to time).

After taking in the scene for a few songs on the bar stereo, I ordered another beer and started to walk again.

I felt unwell all of a sudden, so I chucked the half-empty beer at a 7-11, bought some water, and went back to my room.

I managed to develop a mild fever and a moderate headache that night.

Knowing a fever is a potential indicator of malaria, I sought some help the next morning by talking to the hotel staff.

One woman, in particular, suggested I start with a specific pharmacy. I went there and was given antibiotics for a suspected infection.

Phuket, Thailand's biggest island, was my best hope for finding a deal on a new digital camera and acquiring an AC adapter for my laptop. I scoured Phuket Town's main road and found one Canon 860 IXUS for sale in a Kodak shop. The price was ridiculous - about $60 more than what I saw it for in little Rangon. I brought this to the manager's attention and he immediately agreed to the lower price (about $390). I had a hard time with this figure as it was $90 higher than what I paid just 3 months earlier in Kathmandu, Nepal (and $140 more than I could get it for via the internet). I decided to see if Patong, Phuket's most touristy beach, could help save me a few bucks.

I took the public bus to Patong some time before 10am. I got off at the big, modern mall Jungceylon, adjacent to infamous Bangla Road. I found my camera model in several stores for the Rangon price, however none of the salespeople had the power to negotiate so I decided to try my luck with the independent Kodak shop back in the capital.

I walked down Bangla Road toward the beach. Bars and discos lined the way. Hundreds of stools stood empty, waiting for the sun to go down, the neon to light up, and the throngs of package tourists, couples, old white men, go-go dancers, ladyboys, and prostitutes to arrive.

For some reason, I started to take photos of the bars. It was a painful scene. Bangla Road is not pretty in the least by day. I felt hungover just looking around.

It was high tide so there was little of the beach to walk along. Surfers were out, but the current was too strong for swimming.

I caught the bus back to Phuket Town, and after following a series of leads regarding the best place to find a laptop adapter, finally came across an ASUS service center.  They could order the adapter but it'd take 5 days to reach me and cost $10-20 more than I might be able to get it for in Bangkok.  I didn't want to be constricted to Phuket for 5 days, so I decided to go another month without the use of my little eeePC.

I did suck it up and buy my third digital camera by day's end though.  I only got a few dollars knocked off the going rate by just taking the camera and CDROM (not the battery, charger, etc.), but the saleswoman threw in a 1gb memory card.

The On On Hotel is Phuket Town's oldest.  Staying there, I felt like I could've been Richard.  It was uncanny, and silly to be making such comparisons with a work of fiction.

My room had a broken window, and you could see the light of the lobby through the floorboards which creaked noisily.  I thought it added character.

The hallways without windows looked dark, though there were no women washing the floors while sparks flew from a light outlet.

I'm glad I stayed at the hotel for a few nights.  It was a nice change from bungalows, however no one named after a cartoon character left me a map to a secret island before slitting his wrists.  Luckily, it's no mystery how to find the beach (Maya Bay) these days.

Awoke at 7:30am, got on the back of a scooter at 8am, in the pouring rain, and sped off toward the pier. The ride was even scarier than the day before - wet concrete, sand, mud, leaves. I tipped the guy $1 on top of the $2 charge for an even $3. Happy to be alive.

I hopped right on the ferry and we took off. The rain let up after awhile and the side tarps were rolled up. The 360 degree views were beautiful, with clouds rolling off the jungle-covered hills and islands. The water looked green and wasn't too rough given the weather.

I spoke to a Canadian girl - she'd come to Thailand at 15 with her family on vacation, met a local guy in the north, got pregnant, and has been here the past 3 years. I couldn't imagine the reaction of the parents. The girl just moved to Koh Phayam where they're living with her sister in a bungalow for $120 per month. She's planning to marry the father.

I was able to get a nice bus to Phuket within 30 minutes of being dropped off at the bus terminal. The ride was longer than I expected - about 5 hours. We got into Phuket Town (capital of the island/province) with some daylight left though. I was beat. I decided to stay in the On On Hotel which was where the Bangkok hotel scenes were shot from "The Beach." I figured why not!?

My mission the following day was to see if I could buy a new camera and AC adapter for my laptop.

The ferry ride from Rangon to Koh Phayam was very scenic. Clouds hung so low it felt like you could reach up and grab them.

There were two European couples on the boat, and me. Everyone else was Thai, including the guy next to me who worked on the island helping sea gypsies.

The Lonely Planet dedicates about two pages to Koh Phayam (not much), but it does mention there are no cars - only motorbike taxis and a little "highway" that runs across the island.

I was hoping the taxis would have a little side cart for me to sit in but no such luck.

Thankfully, Dan's dare had given me some experience on the back of a motorbike, however riding around on the smooth asphalt of Bangkok felt far safer than holding on to a petite Thai girl who doesn't speak English as she drives over crumbling concrete, sand, and puddles.

It reminded me why it's not a good idea to take up scooter-riding on the islands.

Before I left Koh Phangan, I saw an older woman with road rash from her right shoulder to her right ankle. It looked horrifically painful.

The scooter ride through the quiet, undeveloped interior of Koh Phayam had me feeling a little bit of adrenaline, and a lot of anticipation about the beach I was about to arrive at.

Bamboo Bungalows had a great write-up in the guidebook, so given it was the low season, if backpackers were to be found, it'd be there.

I arrived to find the place almost empty. Most of the restaurant's tables and chairs were piled up in a corner, reflecting little business this time of year.

I had my pick of bungalows, so I took the one with the best beach view. Unfortunately, due to higher winds, they put up a fabric fence to block blowing sand from the beach.

Still, I could hear the thundering waves just perfectly. They were LOUD.

My bungalow was as rustic as they come. The spaces between the floorboards were clearly big enough for large cockroaches to invade the room, yet the reality of such an experience didn't occur to me.

I was too excited. I enjoyed a post-arrival Singha with my feet up.

And then it sunk in that I was alone. Too alone. There was an older Aussie expat staying next to me.

He was helping two Thai sisters who were friends of his (Thai) wife to find bungalows to rent out on the island.

I arrived at low tide so I explored the 3 kilometer beach in both directions. There wasn't much. Most of the bungalow operations were closed for the low season.

No 7-11's. No boardwalks. No go-go bars. In fact, there was only 4 hours of power at my bungalow per day (6:30pm-10:30pm).

After my walk on the beach, I got some dinner with the Aussie guy and Thai sisters.

The guy had been living in Thailand the past 20+ years or so, and would take breaks from talking Thai to keep me somewhat entertained with his perspectives on the development of Thailand over the last 30 years.

He also clued me into the fact that the business owners on Koh Phayam were cutthroat, and apparently, the undercurrents of life on the island were akin to a soap opera, complete with violence, drugs, intimidation, gossip, etc.

Funny how ignorant tourists can be to such things. There was even a yellow drug boat that encircled the island, from which you could buy anything you wanted.

There were police, but they were being paid off so the tourists that wanted to get high in paradise were free to do so.

Inebriated tourists on scooters and large snakes were reason enough to stay at one's bungalow once the sun went down. Not that there was anywhere else to go!

My taxi driver picked me up in the morning and took me to the pier from which I'd take a longboat to Burma (aka Myanmar).  When we stepped out on the pier around 8am, I got my exit stamp at the Thai immigration window, and then negotiated the cost of a longboat to Burma and back.  The more the driver and boatman tried to rush me, the more power I realized I had to negotiate.  I'd seen a couple of white girls on the way over, complete with color-coded stickers on their shirts (from the travel agent that arranged their Visa runs), so I knew there had to be a cheaper way to cross the border than chartering my own boat.

After cutting the price down by 30% (or $5), I boarded my first traditional longboat for the 30-minute ride to Burma.  The views were beautiful.  As we approached the Burmese side, golden pagoda's came in to view along various hilltops.  I suddenly found myself wanting to explore the country, despite having previously written it off due to the recent cyclone catastrophe.  I then realized my plan to spend 2-3 months in Thailand meant I'd already accounted for my two exit/re-entries within a 6-month period.  I could go to Burma, but it would mean I couldn't leave Asia via Bangkok (which I hope will bring me the cheapest airfare possible).

I was in Burma for just a few minutes, and it was back on the boat to Rangon.  Thai immigration updated my passport, allowing me free reign in the country for another 30 days.  My driver brought me back to my hotel where I picked up my backpack and went to the nearby pier for the ferry to Koh Phayam.  Murphy's Law struck in the form of low tide.  Of course there was a motorbike taxi cruising around picking up people like me who were at the wrong pier.  I tried to negotiate the rate but failed.  Several Thais also joined me in the little side carriage, and after we were delivered to the right place, I was happy to see we all paid the same price (not what you'd see in India).

The time had come to see if Koh Phayam was really just "a bunch of bamboo bungalows on the beach" like the expat on Koh Phangan told me.

_________________________

PS - Should I claim credit on travel maps for having visited Burma simply for the purpose of renewing my Thai Visa?  And for that matter, Malaysia which I only visited for a few hours while staying in Singapore?  Leave a comment and let me know!

I was the last of our Dutch/German/American/English posse to leave Thong Nai Pan Noi. My first month in Thailand was running out and it was time to launch a Visa run via the Burmese border. The adventure began with a nearly missed boat ride from Koh Phangan to Surat Thani on the mainland. I had to wake up my taxi driver at sunrise. Thankfully she sleeps right in the back of the her restaurant. The boat ride was bittersweet, though I was excited to be heading toward the islands of The Andaman Sea.

Once off the boat, we were all shuffled onto a big bus for the hour's ride to Surat Thani. Everyone was then placed in the back of a pick-up and brought to their respective tour operator. If I haven't mentioned it before, this whole process is made easy by color-coded stickers all the tourists are given before departure on the ferries.

Once at the travel office, a staging ground/restaurant with a Samsung LCD screening a Brangelina movie, it was a matter of waiting my turn. Half the crowd left for Phuket, and the other half left for Koh Phi Phi Don. Apparently I was the only one headed to the wonderful border town of Ranong.

The bus dropped me off and I took off with a local "taxi" driver. I went with the flow, taking a room at a resort he recommended, which was geared completely around people spending one night in Rangon to arrange for a new Visa. After settling into my room, I walked through a local market, got a bite to eat, a quick haircut while a Burmese guy flirted with me incessantly, my first taste of Thai whiskey mixed with pink Tang from some friendly locals who offered to take me out on the town for a few hours (they were drunk, I declined), and a few solid hours of cheap internet time before crashing.

The day after the bar crawl, it was Elizabeth's turn to feel unwell. Aside from a few hours of dice with Nienke, it was a low key day and night. In the morning, I joined them both for breakfast on the beach and we said goodbye.

I decided to walk along a rickety old boardwalk that leads to a fancy resort between the north and south beaches. The hotel grounds were stunning. It was clearly the type of place that attracts couples and families instead of us cheapskate backpackers. The pool was gorgeous, as were the views from the restaurant's patio, so I decided to indulge in a tasty lunch of yellow curry with chicken. The splurge came when I decided to order the coconut dessert. Soooo creamy and delicious. Desserts have been real hit or miss affairs in Thailand and this petite one really hit the spot.

After lunch, I walked back along the boardwalk and decided to take some photos from one of the adjacent boulders. As I lept off the wooden walkway, I heard the board under my foot bend. I could tell it was literally pulling the old nail up from the vertical support beam. Thankfully, momentum was on my side and I landed safely on the rock.

I took a bunch of pictures, and as I was putting my camera back in the case, I heard a crunch. If you've ever heard the sound of your own bones cracking, the sound which instantly sets off pulses of adrenaline, then you know what it sounded like when those little camera gears which control the zoom lens snapped and popped.

I immediately assessed the damage. I could manually zoom out slightly to get a clear shot, however going any further, it was all out of focus and if I went all the way, then I was forced to restart the camera. The lens was no longer able to fully retract either. I knew it was a total loss. I would need to buy a new camera just 3 months after coughing up $300 in Kathmandu.

Surprisingly, I wasn't too pissed off about the situation. I knew I could and would get a new one once I arrived on Phuket, it was just going to be a matter of how much I'd have to shell out. My mind was already piecing together how I would be able to cover some of the cost with the month's advertising revenue and money earned from completed dares.

I spent the afternoon after the Half Moon Party playing card and dice games with Elizabeth and Nienke (who was feeling better) at the Beach Club restaurant. Steve and the American girl eventually joined us, and happy hour drinks turned into a beach bar crawl for the evening's entertainment.

Our second destination was the Flip Flop Pharmacy which was situated in the middle of the beach. The music there was a noticeable improvement.

Our third and final destination was the bar and restaurant at the opposite end of the beach. There, we ordered a little bit of food. I tried the calamari which tasted far fresher than any I'd had back in Virginia.

We finished off the evening with a night swim before retiring. I once again had to say goodbye to Steve who was leaving in the morning for an island in the Andaman Sea.

I had high expectations for the Half Moon party. However it turned out to be a letdown.

I know some people enjoyed it more than the Full Moon party because they told me as much, but I couldn't see the appeal.

Chrissy, Diana, Steve, myself, and an American girl arrived early via taxi.

Images of a rustic setup in the jungle were quickly dispelled when we walked up the access road to see a ticket booth.

We all seemed to have missed the detail of a cover charge, perhaps because it wasn't mentioned on the flyers. It was about $9, which included one drink.

On top of the return taxi fare, the night was already shaping up to be more costly than the Full Moon Party.

And then I saw the drink prices, which were about 30% higher than what you could get on Haad Rin.

The venue was not jungle-like at all. There were buildings, concrete, infrastructure!

After a loop around the premises, it was clear there was little escape from the music if psy-trance wasn't your thing.

I often enjoyed it at the beach, but I wasn't digging it at the Half Moon party.

Thankfully, they had a few fire dancers who provided much needed entertainment. It was probably the highlight of the night for me.

Steve and the American girl left at 1 am, and I knew I had to decide whether to go with them or at 4 am with Chrissy and Diana (who were trying to stay up all night as they had to leave Koh Phangan early that morning).

I decided to stay longer, and almost immediately regretted it.

During those painful three hours, I saw the bloody results of a guy who got hit in the head with a bottle.

I saw Chrissy needing to take care of Diana who accidentally had too much to drink.

I had to stay under the roof of a bar due to pouring rain.

I witnessed some girl seemingly start to bleed spontaneously (after a few minutes, a guy carried her down the access road as blood and tears ran down her face).

And on top of it all, when 4 am rolled around, we didn't immediately connect with our taxi.

She was waiting for us at the gate but didn't see us leave, so we waited around for 30 minutes thinking we'd have to pay for a new taxi to get back (which would've been VERY expensive given we were on a remote beach).

While we were cursing taxis, I spotted the cool fire dancer and had my photo taken with him.

I asked him how long he'd been twirling fire, and he responded a year and a half. He practices about three hours a day, every day.

My advice:  Do not go out of your way to attend the Half Moon Party.

Note: It's been 10+ years since I wrote this so things may have changed. You can find more info on the Half Moon Festival here.

Steve had trained in Thailand's national sport, Muay Thai, for three years back in England so he was excited to see his first match, and myself, Chrissy, and Diana joined him for a night out on Koh Phangan.

The ride there was about 30 minutes, with the first half spent twisting, turning, and bumping around on the dirt roads in the back of the modified pick-up.

The "stadium" felt more like someone's backyard. There was a small bar, a few bleachers, and tables/chairs around the ring for those who paid extra.

I was glad to attend the fights with Steve because he was able to appreciate some of the technique and answer questions.

The format was similar to what we'd have seen anywhere else.

The whole event lasted about three hours and started out with tiny little kids fighting.

We'd heard about this so it wasn't a surprise, yet it was mildly disturbing. In this case, the tots were girls.

At first it was novel to have the small kids fighting intermittently as the night progressed, however, it then seemed to become more of a filler between bouts with increasingly older guys.

In fact, the two best fights of the night, which came at the end (of course), resulted in KO's within the first round.

Before one of the fights started, I picked a guy in red trunks to win. He was short, tan, with well-defined muscles, and a good game face.

His opponent was a beanpole by comparison, and while taller, seemed to lack muscle mass and any sense that he was going to come out of it a winner.

Earlier in the evening, the audience was almost all tourists, however as the fighters got older, more Thais filtered in to give the experience a better sense of authenticity.

Steve was disappointed that his first fights in Thailand were not so fantastic, and resolved to watch some matches at Lumbini, the big stadium in Bangkok.

When it was all over, we rumbled our way back to Thong Nai Pan Noi for late-night cheeseburgers.

I was looking forward to the next night's entertainment, the biweekly Half Moon Party.

Paradise does have it's challenges, such as finding/keeping a bungalow you're satisfied with for more than 2 nights.

Night 1 - Shared bungalow with Steve in middle of beach

Night 2 - We got our own bungalows at the resort with The Beach Club restaurant where we first had dinner. I was in #5, though I had been told I'd have to move the next day due to a previous reservation for that one (from which you could see the water from the porch's hemp hammock).

Night 3 - #35, though electricity failed (spent the night with no fan because I couldn't be bothered to move so late)

Night 4- #34, the bungalow next door which I used after the previous one's power failure

Nights ⅚ - #27, a bungalow a little farther away from the stereo alarm in the form of radial saws (working on a yet-to-be opened resort of luxury villas...literally a few feet away)

Nights ⅞ - #5, persistence paid off and when this baby opened up again, after initially declining, I moved one last time to get get that swinging on a porch's hemp hammock views of the water

Meanwhile, Nienke (Holland) had become ill just the day after we met her. I let them my digital thermometer which confirmed a fever. She'd be in bed for the next few days. Later in the week, her friend Elizabeth seemed to come down with a similar illness. And as I write, I'm convinced I'm suffering the consequences of it too.

Steve kept vacillating on what he wanted to do...where he wanted to go...how long he could handle power saws waking him in the mornings. I didn't mind them too much. I considered it a small price to pay for such a beautiful, secluded beach. With the 44 luxury villas set to come on line by year's end, the beach accommodations were clearly heading upscale. Hopefully I'd be able to return there someday without breaking the bank.

After a nice 30-minute massage at a local place, I struck up a conversation with an expat who just happened to be the co-owner, along with his Thai wife.  In hopes of getting off the tourist trail, and seeking a bit of adventure, I took the opportunity to ask him for an island recommendation. They had recently vacationed on an island called Koh Phayam near the Thai-Burmese border. I filed this information away, already sure I'd be making the effort to visit when the time came to go on a visa run (a quick exit from Thailand to gain another 30 days in the country).

It was on Thong Nai Pan Noi that I concluded my personal paradises are qualified by one shared characteristic: they are island beaches, specifically tropical islands (sorry Ireland).  There must be time spent amidst a blue sky with wispy (or puffy) white clouds, varying shades of turquoise water, fine white sand, and a background of green palm trees and jungle.

I've come to this conclusion after extensive research - Hawaii, Belize, French Polynesia, Indonesia, and now Thailand.

An Australian couple, Steve, and I shared a pick-up ride to Thong Nai Pan Noi, a quieter beach on Kho Phangan's northeast coast. The concrete road gave way to rutted dirt half way there.  The interior of the island was thick with jungle cover.  As we approached our destination, I was surprised and excited by just low little development was present for a beach long known to be one of the most beautiful on the island.

Steve and I trudged across the sand under the intense mid-afternoon sun in search of affordable bungalows. For those few minutes, sweat pouring off of us, it felt like we were walking across a desert. It was too early to comprehend and appreciate the beauty of our new environment. We ended up sharing a room for the first night. It was nice to have a roommate again, even for just one night.

Once settled, I bought a sarong for hanging out on the beach, started reading Nasty Bits, and naming the friendly beach dogs.

The atmosphere of the small beach reminded me of the vibe on Gili Trawangan. Excited by the opportunities a new place always presents, I took the lead on our walk down the beach in search of dinner companions. The Beach Club looked like the most popular place, and I didn't hesitate to find out if Steve and I could join two girls sitting at a table on the sand. Initially, they indicated we could have their table as they were about to leave, however we were then invited to sit with them.

Nienke and Elizabeth were from Holland, and Steve and I got to know them as we dined on delicious whole white snappers. A large group lit lanterns all at once on the beach, and I finally had my camera with me to get some shots. These were the first I'd seen with fireworks attached to the bottom. They looked like little rockets as they shot up faster than normal.

Around 10:30pm, the girls departed, and Steve indicated he was ready for bed. I, on the other hand, was happy to be sipping a second screwdriver after a few earlier Singhas. Once Steve left, I sat for a moment, and then introduced myself to two German girls who were laying on the restaurant's beach mats a little closer to the water.

Chrissy and Diana were from Frankfurt. I spoke with Chrissy for the most part (it took me far too many days to realize that it was only because Diana didn't speak much English). As we chatted, a group of guys dropped their shorts and went skinny dipping nearby. Thankfully, I could only see a bunch of white asses running into the water. The girls were going to stop by the Jungle Bar in "town" for the weekly sunrise party. When they left to freshen up at their bungalow, I lay back on the mat, eyes peering into the black sky above, for a few minutes to reflect on the present moment.

As I headed to the Jungle Bar, I passed the girls' bungalow and we walked over together (it was all of a 2-minute walk). Chrissy found a 500 Baht ($15) note at the door, and offered to buy the first round. The bar was full with people talking, drinking, and dancing under the black lights. The music was decidedly pop and rock, but I went with the flow. I even spotted a few ladyboys who I thought could help me win an outstanding $50 dare.

I bought a round as well, and we retired around 2am. During my walk back along the dark, desolate beach, I thought if there was ever a beach that called out for skinny dipping, this was the one.

Needless to say, Steve and I took it easy following the Full Moon Party.  I shared my intention to visit a quieter beach on the northeast coast of Kho Phangan called Thang Nai Pan Noi.  I'd been unsure of whether he'd want to join me, but to my surprise, he was already up for escaping the party scene.

The beach was littered with beer bottles and trash, yet a small contingent of dedicated sunbathers lay out amongst it all in the afternoon.  I knew the community would ensure the beach would be cleaned up in due time, however there was clearly no rush (unlike Time Square after New Year's Eve).

I exchanged Anthony Kiedis' autobiography, Scar Tissue, for Anthony Bourdain's Nasty Bits, a collection of previously published material about food and travel.

We watched more of The Family Guy, dined on giant butterflied and barbecued Tiger prawns, and called it an early night.

Steve arrived just in time to join me for the July 2008 Full Moon Party on Kho Phagnan's Haad Rin Beach.

I was beyond happy to spot him slugging his way through the sand at 5pm after an overnight bus ride from Bangkok.

I greeted him with good news too. I had paid for a bungalow that had opened up that morning so he'd have his own place.

As he settled into his new pad, I used the time to try and freshen up.

Having awoken at noon, I was still trying to shake off my hangover from the prior night, concerned I had peaked too soon with the partying.

No one told me every night is party night on Haad Rin, and it's a hard place to exercise restraint.

We met at the Mountain Bar for a beer. I was humored by the culture shock Steve was in the midst of experiencing.

Unlike me, he barely spent a day in Bangkok before heading straight to party island Kho Phangan.

Where were the cows? It's so clean! Why are the women all barely dressed!? I could relate to it all.

Food vendors set up stalls along the beach's perimeter in anticipation of the hungry, drunken hordes.

The bucket (liquor) vendors lit up and music began to boom from a few of the clubs.

Workers were still erecting the dance platform in front of Tommy Resort.

Following our stomachs, we went down to the beach and found ourselves ducking into The Cactus Bar when it started to rain.

Beneath the black lights, people were applying fluorescent paints on one and other.

Steve found it hilarious that a guy was painting abs on another guy.

He couldn't get over the vanity involved in such an act! I, on the other hand, was contemplating flames on my freshly shaven head.

Once the rain let up, we headed up the street in search of dinner. I had written off The Family Guy years ago after it first came out, however Steve was a fan so we ate in that restaurant.

After less than an episode, I was a convert. I vastly underestimated the mature (in a sophomoric kind of way) humor of the show.

We drank delicious coconut shakes, entranced by the cartoon, as party people continued to stream toward the beach on the street behind us.

Despite the continued rain, we left the shelter of the restaurant behind and braved the beach.

It was crowded...much more crowded than the prior night. Ferries were adrift offshore while people were being dropped off by the speedboat load.

The serene beach I arrived at by day had become the epicenter of Thailand's biggest party of the month.

Large lightning bolts flashed across the sky over the water, and judging by the masses, most people were unaffected by the rain. It was a bit chilly, however Steve and I were all too happy to take in the sights of a platform filled with dancing girls.

One in particular, clearly in search of attention (she was wearing quite a bathing suit), climbed to a very small, higher (say 15-foot) section.

There was just enough room for her, and she didn't last long before losing her balance and toppling over.

We stood there in the rain, aghast at this woman's violent fall from grace. Images of compound fractures filled my mind, while Steve figured someone should be told.

We turned around after a minute or two to see the girl (seemingly OK) by the road.

We moved on...somewhere. At this point, it may have been a pit stop back at the bungalows followed by another drink at The Mountain Bar.

Back on the beach, we ran into a couple Steve met in Nepal or India.

We joined forces and danced to some house music at the south end of the beach.

By now, the rain was again pouring. It was 1 or 2 am, and it felt great.

As usual, guys were using the shoreline as their personal urinals, though in a new twist on previous nights, women could be seen doing the same.

The gross truth is that by the time people are using the water as a toilet, people are also swimming and playing around in all too close a proximity.

Around 3 am, Steve was all but ready to head back to his bungalow for sleep.

We parted ways and I went back to the house music on the south end of the beach. I ended up dancing with an Irish girl in front of a big stack of speakers for an hour or so.

Despite the blaring music, we were able to talk a bit.

Meanwhile, Steve was witnessing a couple having sex on the beach, and an English guy beating up 3 other guys by making use of some Muay Thai boxing techniques.

As the Irish girl had to remain stationary so her friend could find her, and they could depart the island by boat at 7 am, I ventured up the beach to find a spot to watch the sunrise.

I rolled up to the drum 'n bass area and the music was booming. I loved the feeling that the music's energy could drive me into the gulf. 

It was exactly how I wanted to feel at a dance club when I arrived in Bangkok. 

I grabbed a seat and peered out over the water, occasionally taking in the sights of drunk people passed out (often face down) in the sand, and people going for swims.

I started talking to a Dutch girl who was much more lively at this early hour than her friend who was clearly in need of sleep.

The sun rose over the horizon, lighting up the hundreds, if not thousands of people, still dancing and mingling on the beach.

Sometime around 7 am, I waded through the water, took a quick shower, and amazingly drifted off to sleep despite the still-blaring trance music which always seemed to overpower all other noise.

Earlier in the week, I realized that if the party was begun by a bunch of drug-friendly ravers/backpackers/hippies back in the 90's, then its popularity combined with stricter Thai drug policy has long since morphed it into an alcohol-fueled Spring Break for an international contingent of 18-25-year-olds. That said, I found the overall vibe friendliest on Full Moon night.

Maybe it was all the compliments I received for those fluorescent flames on my head. 

The weather continued to be absolutely gorgeous. The day before the big event was the last day of a beach soccer tournament that I watched very little of.

Instead, I opted to use my time more wisely, such as getting a foot massage. As you can see in the above photo, I had some company. The little guy jumped on my lap and made himself comfortable the whole time. When it came time for me to leave, I lateraled him to the girl next to me so he could continue to live the life of luxury as a spa dog.

As sundown arrived, the club/bar/bucket vendor lights turned on. Trance began to boom from the Zoom club like clockwork. I ran into Maura and Laura on the beach and hung out with them for a bit at the Drop In bar. They had befriended a spunky Thai woman from Chiang Mai, a former sex worker, who was here on vacation. She was bisexual and a pretty blonde Swedish girl we had all just met started making out with her in front of me. The funny thing is I think she asked permission from a guy (possibly a boyfriend) also standing nearby.

The music at Drop In sucked. Remixes of modern pop hits is not for me, so I left Maura and Laura, and stumbled all over, dancing to trance and drum and bass. Every now and then, the sky would light up with fireworks and traditional Thai lanterns.

A girl stopped me at one point, wanting to paint a heart on my forehead. I allowed it, but then visions of embarrassing artwork entered my mind (like a lot of what I saw painted on guys' backs). I approached a guy to find out what was there, and he looked mortified, so I didn't get answer from him. I assumed the worst and used some tissue to wipe the paint.

I stopped back at my bungalow to fully wash it off.

I don't know how I managed to stay awake, but I had a cheeseburger at 5am while watching Friends. I returned to my bungalow at sunrise to get my camera and snap a few photos. If I was spending a week on "Sunrise Beach" I couldn't justify leaving without at least one shot of the sun coming up.

All in all, not a bad way to warm up for one last night of partying (at least on this beach)!

July's Full Moon Party was scheduled two days after the true full moon due do a Buddhist holiday. It wasn't until sunset, when I was enjoying my first beer of the day at The Mountain Bar, that I learned there would be no music on Haad Rin's beach that night.

Earlier, I grabbed a tasty lunch of panang curry with chicken and rice at a restaurant overlooking the beach. Every day, more and more people were arriving in hedonistic anticipation of the legendary party.

Being a vampire, I spent little of my afternoons in direct sunlight. The heat gave me the perfect excuse to spend too much money at internet cafes which were air-conditioned. As a blogger, I continue to appreciate the Thai's investment in large, quality monitors for their patrons.

A WiFi card I had bought for use with my laptop became worthless after a power surge shot electric sparks from my AC adapter. At least this second time it has broken, I know the problem and am in a country where I should be able to get a replacement. Unfortunately, I don't expect to be back in Bangkok for another 4-5 weeks, so the laptop has become 1kg of dead weight (like my whole time in Nepal).

I made good use of the rare quiet night on Haad Rin by getting a front row seat for a screening of The Beach at dinner. Ideally, I wanted to wait until I was on Ko Phi Phi, but then again, I read the book in Kathmandu of all places.