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The Road to Halabja Part III - Arbil Awaits

This is the next guest post in a series by Kevin Post. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

The conversation between the driver and me on the way to Arbil was mainly in Turkish because my Kurdish at the time was very minimal.

We talked about the beautiful scenery and how much this man liked "Mr. George W. Bush".

I highly disagreed with the man regarding the former president of the United States and expressed that freely in what little Turkish and Kurdish I knew.

But as a Kurd, he saw Bush's invasion of Iraq as emancipation for the Kurds of the north.

The most exciting part of the drive was being stopped every 20 minutes or so at checkpoints while being questioned.

You have to keep in mind that I was in Iraq without the ability to speak the language adequately and no one back home knew I was there; the adrenalin rush felt so good as I embraced the uncertainty.

At the first checkpoint, the soldier asked me where my gun was as if I were a soldier. My response in English, with my intention to sound Kurdish was, "Turrist." The soldier looked confused but let me on my way.

A few minutes later we stopped in Dohuk to fill up on gas and I regret not spending some time there.

It is a beautiful town situated on the foothills of the Zagros mountain range, with stunning views in every direction. I greatly look forward to exploring this town the next time I visit.

The geography changed rapidly from mountains to plains, stunning and eerily different than anything I had seen before as we left Dohuk.

To add to the eeriness, the dust had blocked most of the sun. Experiencing a dust storm was far different than I had expected.

Being from Florida, I expected the dust to feel like sand, but it felt like a light soft powder, and managed to get into everything.

Having my scarf on hand was absolutely necessary throughout the trip to cover the mouth and eyes when dust came my way.

After seeing nothing for almost an hour, we saw a truck stop in the middle of nowhere just outside of the city of Mosul and decided to grab a bite to eat, which was very welcomed considering I hadn't eaten in almost 24 hours.

I wouldn't say that I felt hunger because the journey to Iraq occupied every aspect of my mind and there are very few moments like these when I truly put all of my attention in the present.

The food consisted of flat bread, sugary tea and soup that had flavors I have tasted before, but still to this day I have no idea what was in it; the food wasn't that memorable to be honest.

I really wanted to stop by Mosul, Iraq's second largest city, but due to security reasons at the time I couldn't visit.

Besides, there was a strong U.S. military presence in the city and at the time of this writing, it was Iraq's most dangerous city.

I was more afraid of being stopped by the U.S. military than anything else.

I could just imagine the red flags that would have been flown finding a redheaded American boy traveling in Mosul by himself.

Mosul is a city that, when it is more stable and safer to travel to, shouldn't be missed for its history and mixture of Arab and Kurdish culture.

The best and most intimidating checkpoint was near the outskirts of Arbil. The dust blocking the sun, and tall heavily armed Kurdish soldiers with checkered scarves covering their faces to block the dust was quite intimidating; what I would have done for a picture.

The soldier asked for our identifications with a serious tone, and after glancing over my passport, he and another soldier asked me to step out of the vehicle, which made me nervous.

Roughly seven soldiers stared at me without the slightest grins for what felt like several seconds, and I could hear my heart beat rapidly as the wind blew violently into my ears.

Delightedly, the soldier who asked me to step out of the car, gave me the international signal for " welcome brother!" (something like, "eyyyyyyyy!"? with a smile). Three of the soldiers hugged me and said in a thick Kurdish accent, "Amerika! Welcome Kurdistan!"?

I laughed as I gave these soldiers bro-hugs while repeating "zorspas" (thank you very much). The one thing the Kurdish soldiers had in common is that they were all confused as to why I was in their country. Surely an American would travel by plane.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

Nyungwe Forest Lodge: 5-Star Luxury In Rwanda

Amanda takes in a view of the villas, and the misty Nyungwe Forest — Amanda takes in a view of the villas and the misty Nyungwe Forest

After a long day crossing the length of Lake Kivu by speed boat, we reunited with our drivers and headed for Rwanda's newest 5-star luxury accommodation.

Upon arrival, we were immediately greeted with hot towels to clean our hands, and cold, non-alcoholic caipirinhas to refresh ourselves.

Set amidst a working tea plantation, on the edge of Nyungwe National Park, the Nyungwe Forest Lodge had just opened for business (in March 2010), and we had the privilege of being its first overnight guests.

The complex boasts 24 luxury rooms, each of which includes a private balcony overlooking the forest.

Monkey sightings are frequent, as the park is home to 13 different species of primates, including Black and White Colobus monkeys, and the feisty Chimpanzee.

This building houses 2 of the 24 villas on the property.

My room featured twin beds, while 15 others, and both suites, have king size beds.

The fresh bedding itself, including sheets, comforter, and pillows, were as comfy and cozy as a traveler could require.

The interior design, including a wood-burning fireplace, felt befitting of a central African forest lodge. The room was immaculate.

My favorite part of the villa was the bathroom, which featured a modern design, and a large bathtub overlooking the room.

On my second day, after an unsuccessful attempt at chimpanzee tracking, I filled the tub with hot water, dimmed the lights, turned on some quiet music, and sunk into the hot water with a towel over my eyes.

I wondered why it'd been years since I'd last taken a bath, but then again, I rarely encounter a bathroom that begs to be enjoyed so much.

I also tried the shower, which included a small window that could be opened to let a little fresh air filter in.

A bidet accompanied the toilet, and there were two large stone sinks atop the vanity counter.

The main lodge with restaurant, and lots of cozy fireplaces.

All of the buildings were low in profile and designed to compliment the natural environment.

The gang unwinds around a fire after a long day.

We spent most of our time together by one of several fireplaces in the main lodge.

It was the perfect setting to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail and catch up on the day's activities.

I will share the food offerings in a future post.

In the meantime, you can see additional photos from the property in the slideshow below.

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A luxury room at Nyungwe Forest Lodge will run you $400 per person. A suite costs $500 per person, and there is a single supplement of $200. Prices include breakfast, dinner with select beverages, and taxes.

A Backpacker's Mission: The Thailand-Laos Border Crossing

This is a guest post by Josh Boorman. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

I awoke from my slumber with a slight headache from the bottle of Chiang I drank the night before, however, I got packing immediately to get ready to leave Chiang Rai - it was going to be a long day.

I ate an all " American Breakfast" from the guesthouse kitchen, bacon, sausages, eggs, toast with jam and butter, fruit and orange juice--all for 120BHT.

I felt so much better after eating a proper healthy meal. I was re-energized to take on the trip to Luang Prabang, Laos.

The bus trip to Chiang Khong took much longer than the expected 4 hours.

When I arrived, I had approximately 15 minutes to get my way across the muddy yet fabulous Mekong River over to the mainland of Laos and its border check-in at Huay Xai.

Luckily, I just made it through the border crossing of Thailand, as I was intent on getting into Laos before the sun went down.

I got off the bus with a few other backpackers and I grabbed the closest tuk-tuk to take me only about 1km down the road to the actual border checkpoint.

The other backpackers didn't think that we would make the checkpoint in time so they gave in and decided to look for somewhere to spend the night in Chiang Khong - the Thai border town.

I, however, was on a mission. I wanted to sleep in Laos that night. It was all very exciting and stressful at the same time.

After getting to the checkpoint which was situated on the banks of the Mighty Mekong River, it was a delight to look only a short distance across the river to the mainland of Laos.

I got to the checkpoint as the last person to be processed, and they told me to hurry down to the banks of the river.

It appeared as though the last boat was leaving for the day to transport people over to the Laos border town of Huay Xai.

The border checkpoint and processing office were basic and undeveloped.

The boat to transport me over the Mekong River to the Laotian checkpoint was a rickety, old, skinny long boat.

I was the only foreigner amongst a group of locals who were transporting fruit, rice, and other local commodities.

I was the only backpacker who decided to cross over to Laos that night.

I guess it was just too hard and too much of a gamble for the others, but I had nothing to lose.

I got onto the boat which looked a little shaky, and as if it may struggle with me and my backpack.

Needless to say, the thought of the boat sinking halfway across the river, and me having to swim the rest of the way was an ever-present thought on my mind.

The boat did not sink, however, and I was stepping onto the shores of Laos within 5 to 10 minutes of leaving Thailand.

I then had to be processed through the Laotian border checkpoint where I was also able to exchange some of my Baht into Kip.

Mission complete, now to get on an overnight bus to Luang Prabang.

However, a major barrier appeared before me as the locals at Huay Xai kept telling me that only 2 buses left from Huay Xai each day.

Since it was about 5:30 pm, I took my Lonely Planet guide out to view its accommodation recommendations, especially since I had not planned on staying in Huay Xai for the night.

Arimid guesthouse sounded ok to me for a cool 80,000 Kip (approximately $8USD).

It's about 10,000 Kip to $1 USD, so I was walking around with millions of Kip in my pocket.

WOW, I'm finally a millionaire and I am a backpacker.

The two usually just don't go hand in hand very well, hold on, no wait, a Kip Millionaire is not quite as prosperous, unfortunately.

The Arimid guesthouse was very clean and was full of individual wooden huts just like the traditional Laotion huts that the locals live in out in the villages.

It was located about 400 meters along the main road north of the border checkpoint.

I had a wooden hut to myself with a basic bathroom, fan and double size bed however there was no electricity.

All the same, I was very content with my accommodation in the highly undeveloped town.

I settled in and left the lodge as soon as possible to search for my first Beer Lao.

I'd heard so much about the beer and my brother some years ago had even given me a Beer Lao t-shirt, a cult piece of clothing for the seasoned backpacker.

Beer Lao was not a bad drop, especially when it's 35 degrees Celsius and humid as hell.

Being in Laos, and Huay Xai in particular, I got the feeling that I was finally out of the " system."

The system in which many people back home are controlled by and the system which prevents people from venturing outside of their comfort zone, I was feeling that I was very far from home and that if something went wrong, then I could only rely on myself -- no back-ups or provisions in place to protect me.

I was definitely out of my comfort zone to have these waves of sensations and feelings coming over me.

For the first time, I was experiencing a true sense of independence, I had finally achieved exactly what I'd set out to achieve, "true freedom.'

This was one of the main reasons for taking my backpacking trip around Southeast Asia, so I definitely felt a sense of accomplishment as well.

Next priority I guess I had better eat, I was really unsure of what to think about Huay Xai especially considering it was a tiny town and electricity appeared to be quite limited to only shops and eateries.

I wanted to find a place to eat that was quite busy so that I didn't get sick for off food.

I should have probably been more worried about whether it was chicken or cat that I was about to consume.

I found a restaurant, and immediately ordered another Beer Lao--a tall one this time, and a dish of fried chicken and noodles (one of my favorite Asian dishes).

It was delicious and whilst eating and drinking, I studied my travel guide for more ideas to fill my time in the cities and towns I intended to visit in the coming days, weeks and months.

The walk from the restaurant to the Arimid guesthouse was about 300 meters and it was quite daunting as there was little to no light due to lack of electricity.

I kept walking pasts houses, well shanties actually, with feral dogs out front that were barking like crazy and tended to stalk, not follow, me about 30 meters down the road until I was past their territory.

This continued on for ages, and after a number of K9 stalkings, I was pretty glad to get back to the guest house.

All I could think about was getting bitten by one of these angry dogs and contracting RABIES. With the lack of hospitals or medical supplies around, this was more cause for concern, so I quickly scurried my way to the guesthouse and retired to bed.

I guess the best memory that I can take away from Huay Xai is the sense of true freedom that I gained from crossing the border from Thailand into the highly undeveloped country of Laos.

I was excited for my journey ahead through Laos.

About the Author: Josh Boorman hails from Australia's sunny Gold Coast. You can catch up with more of his adventures abroad at his blog, Backpacking Addictz, or on Twitter @backpackaddictz.

Friday Flashback - Addo National Elephant Park

After soaking up the surf in Jeffrey's Bay, I joined two European girls for a guided overnight trip to Addo National Elephant Park. We spent a full day in the park, where we saw tons of elephants, buffalo, warthogs, turtles, and assorted game, but no lions.

Day 1 - Road Trippin'
Day 2 -Morning Game Drive in Addo (go here for lots of elephants!)
Day 2 - Lunch and the Search for Lions

Batwa Village in Rwanda

After crossing Lake Kivu, and ending up in the southwestern corner of Rwanda, we visited a Batwa village.

The Batwas, also known as Pygmies, have been indigenous to the Great Lakes region of Eastern Africa for hundreds of years. They are a minority group in Rwanda, often impoverished, and known for the clay pots they produce.

All of the villagers were welcoming, and curious about our presence. The children were more than happy to pose for our cameras.

A woman works on several clay pots in front of her home.

The village we visited had 24 adults, and 125 children.

The women take a lot of care in creating the rounded shape by hand.

Finished product: small handmade clay pots available for purchase. ($3-5 each) — Finished product: small handmade pots available for purchase. ($3-5 each)

It is not uncommon for young children to be seen carrying babies.

To learn more about their current situation, read The Batwa: Rwanda's Forgotten Minority.

The Road to Halabja Part II - No Turning Back

This is the latest guest post in a series by Kevin Post.

[U]pon entering Iraq, I was searched by boarder officer who had no idea how to open my backpack and had me try on my Colombian poncho to see what it was used for; it was awkward for both of us.

A few minutes later I was dropped off by the taxi driver outside of a currency exchange office.

While I waited outside, I was greeted by three Kurdish soldiers which was both friendly and uncomfortable.

While trying to have a conversation in broken Kurdish and English, one of the soldiers held up his cell phone playing " My Heart Will Go On"? by Celine Dion softly in the background.

Seeing a tough, Kurdish soldier armed to the teeth listening to this song was strange enough for me, but he continued to say something along the lines of, " Listen! Titanic! Don't let go!" as if James Cameron's " Titanic" had just come out in theaters a few days prior to my arrival.

I understand that he was trying to relate to United States mainstream culture but all I could think was, "You know that movie came out when I was like 10 years old right?"

After a few minutes expressing the friendship the Kurds and Americans share, I said my khwa lagal (goodbye) to the soldier and went into the currency exchange office.

There were roughly ten men chatting and laughing that hot afternoon while sipping sugary tea in the exchange office, and as I make my presence clear, all attention was on me.

I changed every cent I had from Turkish Liras (YTL) to Iraqi dinars.

Everyone laughed as I checked for counterfeit bills, because I'm sure that they knew that I had never seen Iraqi currency in my life.

After being offered incredibly sweet tea, I left with nothing but Iraqi dinars, my backpack, a notepad with important Kurdish words and phrases, and illiteracy of the modified Persian alphabet.

The graffiti on the walls was unreadable to me as I walked towards the town of Zakho, and for the first time in my life I truly felt illiterate.

I wanted to take pictures, but there were military instillations everywhere and I didn't want to take my chances.

I was a little nervous walking into Zakho because I had no idea what to expect.

I had no contacts or the linguistic capability to communicate effectively with the local population.

It was getting late, and I hadn't a place to sleep, but luckily I met several taxi drivers who spoke English and they recommended a hotel to me.

It wasn't bad for $10 US a night, and the receptionist seemed incredibly excited to have an American who wasn't a soldier in his hotel.

After a long day of traveling in 46ºC (114 ºF) degree heat from Turkey into Iraq and being overwhelmed just thinking that I was Iraq without telling my friends and family, I was exhausted and ready for bed before the sunset.

Before calling it a day, I took some time to people watch outside my window, as well as watch Kurdish television.

While surfing the channels I stumbled upon an Arab porn channel which was something I wasn't expecting to find in my hotel room.

After listening to some Kurdish music and staying informed about happenings in the world via Al jazeera, I fell into a deep sleep, and slept incredibly well that night.

I woke up around 5am to catch a ride from Zakho to the Kurdish capital of Arbil (also known as Hawler). I hugged the receptionist goodbye, not only because it's common to hug here, but because it was my way as an American to spread good vibes.

It was a four hour drive, with a stop over in Dohuk, and a short lunch break near Mosul.

Dohuk is a beautiful city that I believe will have a lot of potential for backpackers due to its mountainous terrain and cultural interests.

I didn't have the time or the money to spend more than a few minutes there; I had to get to Arbil quickly because my host that a friend of mine in Istanbul connected me with was expecting me.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

Treasures of Stockholm: Vasa Museum and Absolut Icebar

Why on earth did I visit Stockholm in January? When I stepped off the plane at 4 pm, it was as dark as midnight and -17C (1º F).

The answer: I had frequent flyer miles about to expire, and this destination was a special, low-mile rate.

However, Sweden's freezing temperatures led me to something I often overlook: visiting museums and cultural exhibitions instead of wandering a city's streets and hiking the nearby mountains.

By far, my favorite place in Stockholm was the Vasa Museum. The Vasa is a 17th-century warship that sank in the harbor a mile into her maiden voyage due to poor design.

Because of the conditions in the harbor, the wood-eating shipworms found in most of the oceans cannot survive, and the Vasa was preserved remarkably well.

Here's a 1/10 scale model of the ship:

And the current view, after being underwater for 333 years:

I spent over an hour taking pictures of the ship from different angles. Besides housing this marvelous vessel, the museum details what life was like for ship-going Swedes of that period.

Much of that knowledge was gleaned from artifacts (and skeletons!) found on the recovered Vasa herself.

After a sub-zero day spent walking between museums in beautiful Stockholm, I needed a drink. It was so cold there that frost "grew" overnight, over a centimeter of frost!

So, where did I go for a refreshing beverage? Perhaps a cafe serving the local mulled wine?

No, as a New Englander, I hitched 'em up and strolled into the Absolut Icebar in the Nordic Sea Hotel. Inside the Icebar, it was- 5C, a full 10C warmer than outside.

For the rather expensive 18 euro entry fee, I received a drink coupon and a wooly parka. Check out the stylin' bar made entirely of ice!

There's nothing quite like drinking a tasty vodka martini from a glass made of ice (resting on a bar of ice) while sitting on an ice stool.

Whether it's the right experience for your next vacation or round-the-world stop, that's up to you to decide.

If you're in Stockholm with a few good friends in the summer, I'd recommend it as a cool place to get a few drinks!

Stockholm has much more to see: I enjoyed the Nationalmuseum, a moose burger, my hostel (a ship floating in the harbor), and a cool bar called Garlic & Shots.

Let me warn you. The garlic beer is simply a light beer with two cloves of raw garlic crushed and floating on top.

Whether you go to learn about the culture, museums, original bars, or friendly residents of Stockholm, I guarantee it will be a great experience you won't soon forget.

Sweden is somewhere I plan to return to. Next time, in the summer!

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About the Author: David Douglas is a fantasy author and blogger about to embark on a 3-month trip around the world. You can read more of his travel tales at http://traveldave.com or find him on Facebook.

Fire & Ice: Visiting An Erupting Volcano in Iceland

On March 20, 2010, a volcano erupted in Iceland near the Eyjafjallajokull glacier after nearly 200 years of lying dormant.

On April 7, 2010, I got to see this magnificent force of nature from right up close.

Table of Contents

The Mission
The Obstacles
Tour Details
The Super Jeep Tour
Sunset Helicopter Ride Over Volcano
The Super Jeep Tour (Continued)
Final Words
Helicopter Tour
Land Tour

The Mission

Reach the Volcano, by air and/or by land.

The Obstacles

1) Extreme weather conditions made visiting the Volcano impossible for several days during my stay in Iceland.

My flight to London was scheduled the morning of April 7, 2010.

The night of April 6, 2010 tours announced that conditions would enable people to reach the Volcano on April 7, 2010.

I pushed back my flight by a day and booked a tour to the Volcano.

2) Find a minimum amount of people for the tour.

3) Combine an air and land tour for a cheaper price than offered.

Tour Details

At the fabulous Reykjavik Downtown Hostel, with the assistance of the receptionist Swantje, I booked a super jeep tour with Iceland Total.

Iceland Total (which offers a large variety of tours in Iceland) contracted Amazingtours.is to take us on this tour. Our driver/guide was Jon Ingi Dardi.

Tour Rating: 5 out of 5.

Tour Guide Rating: 5 out of 5.

I couldn't have imagined a better tour or tour guide.

Cost: The cost for the super jeep tour was 235 Euros which was 41,000 Krona at the time.

Other tours were offering a combined helicopter and super jeep tour for 99,000 Krona, but we worked out an arrangement with our tour to separately combine it with a helicopter ride.

Helicopter.is offers helicopter rides from the Skogafoss waterfalls, for 43,000 Krona (normally the helicopter flights are flights to and from the pad and do not drop you off near the Volcano rim, but because we had previously requested a combination of a helicopter and jeep tour we were luckily dropped off near the rim!).

Therefore, we managed to combine a Volcano land and air tour for the cheaper price of 84,000 Krona total (currently $657).

Note that a minimum fee payment for two people is needed for the super jeep ride and minimum payment for four people is needed for the helicopter ride.

The Super Jeep Tour

At 2 pm our super jeep picked us up from our Hostel. I was with my new Canadian friend Michael, and my new friend from Holland, Kim.

In total, we were 7 tourists, plus the driver in the super jeep (maximum capacity of 8 people).

Sunset Helicopter Ride Over Volcano

The helicopter seats six people. I sat with the pilot in the front, while Kim, Mike, and two other tourists sat at the back.

The helicopter ride takes about 20 minutes total and circles the Volcano from all directions (ours was less than 20 minutes as we were dropped off on location).

The helicopter set us down near the Volcano rim.

The Super Jeep Tour (Continued)

We had called our driver Jon just before take off to tell him we would be arriving in the next helicopter.

Therefore, upon landing, our driver came to get us and drove us even closer to the Volcano rim.

After "hanging out" at the Volcano rim (as close as we could get) and taking in the magnificence of it all, we drove in the jeep to another vantage point (which was further away, but also wondrous).

We had not spent too long a time at the Volcano rim (due to the fumes), but enough to feel fulfilled and exhilarated!

It took us more than an hour to drive off the glacier. The main route up the glacier was closed and Jon, our driver, said we had to make almost a full circle to get off it.

On route down the glacier, we also assisted a jeep that had gotten stuck by roping it to ours. On the drive back to Reykjavik we even got to see the Northern Lights!

We were back at the hostel by 2:30 am.

Final Words

MIND-BLOWING, ONCE IN A LIFETIME! I would definitely choose the land/air combination for the ultimate experience.

If you have to choose between a helicopter ride and the super jeep tour, consider the pros and cons of each.

Helicopter Tour

Pros

Get a bird's eye view from above (see more than one can see from land); circle the volcano (get to see the Volcano from different directions).

Cons

The experience is very limited in time (20 minutes at most); your experience depends on where you are sitting.

I sat near the pilot and had an unobstructed view and could easily take photos/video; one of my friends sat in the back of the helicopter in the middle and found it difficult to take photos and did not enjoy the experience as much as I did.

Land Tour

Pros

You get as close as one can to the lava. You feel the lava stones under your feet (I picked one up and it was still hot!).

When I was there I could feel the heat of the Volcanic eruption. The land tour definitely arouses more of one's senses.

However, note that you might not be able to get as close as I did to the Volcano as conditions at the site vary from day to day.

Also, the experience lasts much longer than the helicopter ride (but you may not want to spend the time going to/from the glacier).

Cons

Your view of the Volcano is limited to a land view and you see less of the Volcanic movement than you can see from above;

The Glacier itself is very cold (generally between -10 to -20 degrees), but warmer once you approach the Volcano and experience some of its heat.

But you can overcome the cold with warm attire (I was wearing thermal pants, pants, three thermal shirts, down jacket, wind jacket with inner fleece, scarf, and hat and did not feel cold at all).

Special thanks to Swantje from the Reykjavik Downtown Hostel who did above and beyond her duty to help coordinate this combination tour.

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About the Author: Debbie Gavish departed New York City earlier this month on a 5 ½ month, 17-country 'round the world trip. You can catch up with all of her adventures at Girls Travel Blog.

All Aboard The Lunatic Express

I cracked open The Lunatic Express the same night it arrived in the mail. The premise of "discovering the world...via its most dangerous buses, boats, trains, and planes" was right up this traveler's alley.

It'd been over a year since I'd first set foot in the streets of Medellin, Colombia - once the world's most dangerous city.

I desperately missed the rush of discovering a new country first hand, of wondering whether I was at the proper train platform in India, and devising Plan B's should my Thai or Indonesian ferry fail to reach its destination.

Carl Hoffman's new book, The Lunatic Express, satiated that thirst for gritty adventures that I'd been missing since my return home.

His 5-month around-the-world journey begins in Washington, DC, when Hoffman takes the Chinatown bus to New York City. Immediately, I felt as though I was along for the ride, having taken that same bus a dozen times before.

It doesn't take long for him to inform us that his vision for the trip was not mere survival, but to see the world from the same perspectives as those (often poor) people who have no other options for getting around. Despite this disclaimer, there is a healthy dose of morbid fascination with the deathtraps he seeks out. Each chapter, in fact, begins with a news clip citing mass deaths associated with a plane crash or a ferry sinking in the region he visits.

As much as I enjoyed reading about someone other than myself riding for long hours in cramped African trains, and filthy Asian ferries, there was another level to the book I appreciated even more. From time to time, Hoffman reflects on the motivations behind his personal drive to explore the world, and the resulting stress it places on his relationship with family members.

In what struck me as an odd gambit to spend time with his daughter, Lily, he invites her to spend five days riding the nauseating buses of Peru with him. After putting her on a plane back home, he "missed her and felt guilty for not being more normal, for pursuing a life that took me so far away, for needing to experience the intensity of loneliness and danger and discomfort."

Later in the book, Hoffman hits on another lesson I'd learned on my own 'round the world trip:

All those people I'd met on the road had made me think deeply about travel and human connection and escape. I had always prided myself on the connections I made while traveling, from the nutty Swiss guy in Mombasa to Fardus in Bangladesh to Moolchand in New Delhi. But all those interactions were fleeting, shallow--I couldn't kid myself that they had been otherwise.

This reflection reminds me of the way George Clooney's character in "Up In The Air" quietly goes about falling for the lead female character after a lifetime of casual relationships. It also reminds me of my own realization about the inevitable shallowness of (most) "connections" on the road after my first few months of continuous travel.

I was initially drawn to read The Lunatic Express because it offered me an escape--the chance to play armchair traveler until my next trip, however it surprised me by offering much more.

Carl Hoffman hits upon many of the universal feelings one experiences when traveling for long periods of time, and in that respect, I connected with the book on a deeper level than I expected. Whether you're planning your next adventure abroad, looking to reconnect with trips past, or simply curious about how the majority of the world's population travels every day, I highly recommend going for a ride on The Lunatic Express.

Watch the Trailer:

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I received a free, advanced copy of The Lunatic Express for the purpose of writing this review.

Friday Flashback: The Eastern Cape

As I headed further east along South Africa's coastline, I couldn't stop myself from spending at least a night or two in several popular resort towns, including Kysna, Plettenberg Bay, and Jeffrey's Bay. Like my experience in Australia, South Africa was starting to seem like one long beach town.

Enjoying the Island Vibe in Knysna
My Time With the Rastas (my homestay with a Rastafarian)
Plettenberg Bay
A Day In Storms River (horseback riding)
Sandboarding
The Island Vibe, Supertubes, and Surf Shops (hanging out in Jeffrey's Bay, a mecca for world class surfing)

The Lakeside Town of Gisenyi

After a full day of mountain gorilla trekking and photographing the Iby'lwacu Cultural Village, we drove to the city of Gisenyi, on the northern shores of Lake Kivu. The lake, Africa's sixth largest, forms Rwanda's natural western border with the Democratic Republic of Congo. We spent two nights at the wonderful Lake Kivu Serena Hotel, situated behind a small section of sandy beach.

One of only a handful of sandy beaches on Lake Kivu

Homes mix amongst the banana trees on the hills of Gisenyi.

A guy atop a well helps others collect water.

Hand-painted signs are common throughout Africa.

Slap an Obama tag on just about anything and we were told it'd sell well in the market.

Bralirwa, the only brewery in Rwanda, manufactures local beers including Primus and Mutzig, plus a variety of Coca-Cola products.

A child reaches for ropes hanging from a traditional fishing boat.

Photoshoot with shool kids (from left): Ben, Peter, Stefanie, Amanda, and Krista — Photoshoot with school kids (from left): Ben, Peter, Stefanie, Amanda, and Krista

The Road to Halabja Part I - Border Crossing

View from my Couchsurfing host's apartment in Batman, Turkey

The Road to Halabjah is a guest post series by Kevin Post. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

It is silly how and why we travel sometimes; it could be after seeing a dance that captivates us, a rock climbing video with breathtaking rock outcroppings or a beautiful young lady we were once infatuated with that encourages us to visit a random region of the world.

My idea of traveling the Kurdish regions of the Middle East came to mind while I was in my empty apartment in Quito, Ecuador reading ” Crescent and Star: Turkey Between Two Worlds“? by Stephen Kinzer and several chapters were dedicated to the Kurdish struggle for autonomy within Turkey’s boarders.

While reading, I became incredibly intrigued by the Kurdish people and their struggle as the largest race of people whom never had a homeland of their own.

If it weren’t for this book I had randomly found in an English book store in the Mariscal neighborhood of Quito, I probably wouldn’t have known about the Kurdish people.

Years later, I finally had the opportunity to realize my dream to visit the Kurdish regions of the Middle East with the exception of Iran. I had put countless, obsessive hours preparing for this trip to learn about the Kurdish language and culture.

I will never forget how I felt when I made the decision to visit the Kurdish Regional Government of Iraq (also known as Iraq-KRG or simply Kurdistan by the Kurds); I felt excited, exhilarated, nervous, anxious as well as a little doubtful for going to a region of the world I have been told was one of the most dangerous places on earth. Nevertheless, I thrived on all of the sentiments I had felt. After speaking to countless Kurds in Turkey I was ready with confidence.

I was on the road to Iraqi-Kurdistan.

There weren’t any buses from Batman to Silopi, so I had to catch a ride with one of my host’s friends from Hasankeyf to Cizre (along the Turkish-Syrian border), and from there I took what seemed to have been an incredibly long taxi ride to the Turkish-Iraq boarder town of Silopi.

After plenty of searches and questioning by the Turkish military with my Turkish dictionary in hand, I made it to the border only to receive more questioning by the Turkish military: ”Are you crazy? It is so dangerous.

You will be killed!” was the theme of the conversations we had.

I felt quite confident until Turkish soldiers expressing so much pessimism made me think that maybe it was a stupid idea for me to venture into a country famous for its spontaneous violence; nevertheless, a voice continued to remind me that there is “no turning back.”

I simply told the Turkish military that I was visiting an American university in As Sulaymaniyah to deter suspicion.

There wasn’t much else they could say to me, so they let me pass.

The Iraqi side of the boarder crossing on the other hand was a breeze, the boarder guards saying proudly with their thick Kurdish accents, ” Welcome to Kurdistan!” which gave me chills.

I couldn’t believe as a United States citizen that I made it to Iraq as a civilian.

...TO BE CONTINUED.

Series: The Road to Halabja

Cruising Lake Kivu by Speedboat

The active Nyiragongo Volcano In Goma, Congo

After a few nights in Gisenyi, we boarded a sleek, new speed boat to cross the length of Lake Kivu.

We donned comfortable life jackets, which were a more fashion friendly black (vs. the traditional fluorescent orange), and took off.

As we got some distance between us and land, an imposing, prehistoric-looking volcano came into view.

Mount Nyiragongo is an active volcano just across the Rwandan border, near the city of Goma in the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Our guide informed us that in the evening, you can see red lava on it.

(Go here for a wicked video of the lava lake from people who trekked to the crater's edge.)

The gang (from left): Amanda, Peter, Stef, Kristin, Ben, and Eric

As the volcano faded into the distance, we passed a natural gas structure that marks the future of Rwanda's energy needs.

According to a BBC News article from 2004, "the lake is holding enough unexploited energy to meet Rwanda's needs for 200 years" though we were told they will also be exporting the gas to other African nations.

Tracking our position on Lake Kivu by using the GPS on my BlackBerry. — Tracking our position on Lake Kivu by using the GPS on my BlackBerry

During the boat ride, I tracked our progress across the lake using Google Maps on my BlackBerry Curve.

It was incredibly accurate, and practically speaking, kept me from asking "how much longer?"

The scenery passing us by consisted of green hills, speckled with homes, and the occasional coffee plantation.

After an hour or two, we came ashore for a bathroom break at a hotel and ended up taking a light second breakfast of eggs, bread, orange juice, and locally grown coffee.

Our speed boat stops at a village on one of the lake's larger islands. — Our speed boat stops at a village on one of the lake's larger islands

The boat was fast. Very fast. Yet it felt incredibly safe.

Peter pointed out the rubber segments on each side, which when inflated, would provide the stability we were all appreciating.

Peter also used his iPhone's GPS app to clock us at 100 kph. That sounded about right.

The villagers put on a song and dance show for us. — The villagers put on a song and a dance show for us

My favorite experience from the boat ride was the village we stopped at near the end.

It required calling ahead, and it wasn't free, however, they put on a song and dance performance for us which we all enjoyed.

Kids pose in a group photo for the Dog Meets World photodiplomacy project. — Kids pose in a group photo for the Dog Meets World photo diplomacy project

I used the opportunity to take and print a few photos for the children (Dog Meets World).

After printing the first one, I soon found myself overwhelmed by kids to the point where it was getting difficult to manage.

Ben suggested we get a group photo, and then I can make multiple prints on the boat.

That approach was less stressful, though it also put me on the boat rather than interacting with the kids during our short stay.

In the end, I was glad I could leave them with a few images.

The villagers seeing us off. — The villagers seeing us off

When the boat set off, we looked back and saw what seemed to be the whole village gathered at the lake's edge to see us off.

And as we neared the southern edge of Lake Kivu, the overcast skies finally began to give way to blue skies and sunshine.

A little too late for our photographic needs, however, a pleasant way to end the trip all the same.

Disembarking the speed boat for our next adventure. — Disembarking the speed boat for our next adventure

The Underground Guide to International Volunteering

As I wrap up my senior year of college, the question, "What are you planning on doing after school?" has come up a lot.

Every one seems to be wondering about my plan, from my professors to my parents friends, even the occasional nosy classmate every now and again.

And the best part? I hardly have any idea.

What I do know is that I want to do something that will positively affect the world.

I'm not alone. According to the USA's Corporation for National and Community Service, over 441,000 more young adults volunteered in 2008 than 2007, equating 8.2 million volunteers that were all younger than 24. That same year, they found that 26.4% of the adult population contributed 8 billion hours of volunteer service. Keep in mind, that these numbers only measure volunteering within the United States, so you can only imagine how much people can give!

For the travel-minded, becoming a global volunteer is a common consideration for all ages. The tough part then, is figuring how to volunteer abroad. With all of the gimmicks and contradicting advice articles, I wouldn't begin to know where to start, and living in a foreign country making very little, if any, money is not something I would go into blind-sighted. If only there were to be an expert...

There is. Meet Kirsty, as quintessential of a travel and volunteer expert as there could be. Beginning in her home country of Canada, Kirsty has been traveling since 2002 and helping a cause while doing it. Last month she completed her 63-page ebook, The Underground Guide to International Volunteering.

It is both thorough and concise, the pages filled with information about motivations, challenges, volunteer types, volunteering opportunities, economic logistics, and legal practicalities. In her own words, the "ebook is aimed at introducing travellers to the wonders of volunteering abroad and to help them break away from the usual backpacker trail, get involved with local communities around the world and make a difference in people's lives in a variety of ways."

I, personally, could not get enough of her honest opinions and kind cultural appreciation. Beyond that, she includes other blogging travel volunteers as resources with consideration and options for poor post-grads, retired do-gooders, unemployed humanitarians, and optimistic gap-year students.

No matter how committed you are to global volunteering, I suggest you take a glance at The Underground Guide to International Volunteering.

I may not know what I'm doing after school, but some day I will travel, volunteer, and make a difference. Hopefully more than once.

Remembering the 1994 Tutsi Genocide

Flowers left on a mass grave at the Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre

On the evening of April 6, 1994, President Juvenal Habyarimana's plane was shot down on approach to Kigali's airport. Wreckage and bodies from the craft rained down on the presidential compound. That evening, extremist Hutus began to implement their "final solution" to rid Rwanda of its Tutsi population. First, they murdered the moderate Hutus of the government, to ensure they could usurp power without political debate. Lists of Tutsis nationwide had been prepared well in advance, and on April 7, 1994, the brutal massacres began in full force.

Even sadder than the fact that this situation was about to unfold, was the fact that a trustworthy informant tipped off the head of the United Nations peacekeeping mission already on the ground in Rwanda with details about what was to come.

Lieutenant General Romeo Dallaire (of Canada) wrote about his subsequent attempts to inform the powers that be at the UN headquarters in New York City, however they brushed the warnings aside, and reminded him to stick with his existing mandate. His hands were tied, despite his assessment that 5,000 troops would've been sufficient to prevent the genocide from occurring.

Reading Shaking Hands With the Devil, Dallaire's detailed account of living through this frustrating period of political ineptitude and unspeakable violence, before my trip to Rwanda, gave me a solid historical context for the 1994 genocide. It also filled my mind with the horrific scenes that he and his troops encountered on a daily basis during the 3 months it took for the Rwandese Patriotic Front (RPF), lead by now President Paul Kagame, to liberate the country.

Traveling to Rwanda, I felt unsure about how I would see the capital. Would I see it through the eyes of Dallaire, as it descended into lawlessness and chaos, the bodies of murdered Tutsis piled up at the numerous roadside checkpoints? Or would I see it through the eyes of those who had been more recently, and spoke of their love for the country and the cleanliness of the capital.

I'd like to say that upon my first glance outside the doors of the Kigali airport terminal, I'd forgotten everything I'd read about the genocide, but that would be disingenuous. On the other hand, while I did continue to reflect on what happened throughout the city, and the country, 16 years earlier, it was quickly overshadowed by my present moment experiences. And the present moment included rolling green hills set amidst beautiful blue skies, friendly people, and waving children.

Mass graves on the grounds of the Kigali Memorial Centre

The Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre opened in 2004, on the 10-year anniversary of the genocide. The main level of the centre is dedicated to the Rwandan genocide, which resulted in the immediate deaths of 800,000 people, and over the following months of many hundreds of thousands more. It provides a timeline of events in Kinyarwanda, French, and English, along with a few graphic images, however I found Dallaire's book to be far more comprehensive. The second floor of the Centre features short recaps of other genocides of the 20th century.

At the time I visited, the second floor also featured a photo exhibit of Rwandan kids who were murdered. Under each large portrait was a short description of the child, including what they liked, and the manner in which they were killed. I felt more emotionally affected by this exhibit then the whole downstairs level. To read about once vibrant, innocent children being "hacked by machete" or being blown up by a grenade while hiding in their home's shower, is deeply saddening.

On April 7, 2010, I attended The 16th Commemoration of the 1994 Tutsi Genocide at the AED Globe Theater in Washington, DC. Among the speakers were James Kimonyo, the Rwandan Ambassador to the United States, and Miss Valentina Iribagiza, a genocide survivor who was the subject of a PBS Frontline documentary in 1997 ("The Rwandan Girl Who Refused To Die").

Before Valentina spoke, we watched an opening clip from the documentary, which showed her at the age of 13, several weeks after having survived a church massacre. Hearing her softly speak, first hand, about the nightmarish events she witnessed was an experience I'll never forget.

Friday Flashback: Great Whites, Whales, Ostriches, and Cheetahs

Africa, more so than any other continent I've visited, offers endless opportunities to commune with nature.

In the span of a few days on South Africa's Western Cape, I spent time whale watching from land, came face to face with a Great White Shark, rode an ostrich, and petted cheetahs.

Whale Watching in Hermanus
The Waiting is the Hardest Part (1st attempt at shark cage diving)
Dare #16 - Completed - Cage Diving with Great White Sharks (adrenaline-infused underwater adventure)
Welcome to Outdshorn
Spelunking in the Cango Caves
It's All About the Ostriches (includes rare video of me riding an ostrich)
Mountain Biking and Cool Cats
Petting the Cheetahs (you gotta see this!)

The Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda

With only about 700 mountain gorillas left in the wild, the chance to spend an hour with these gentle creatures was a real once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Despite juggling my digital camera, Flip HD video camera, and BlackBerry to capture the experience, I still managed to take a few minutes to simply watch and enjoy.

A mama gorilla passes by us with a baby on her back.

Our guide ensures we keep our distance from this gorilla family gathering.

The silverbacks seemed to have an insatiable appetite.

These two little gorillas spent the whole hour we were there playing with each other.

Testing the strength of a vine before going for a swing.

A little one bares his teeth during a wrestling match on the forest floor.

These three gorillas were quietly hanging out behind us.

As imposing as these big males appear in photos, they went about their normal business while we were around.

The gorilla walking sticks offered to us on the trek. I bought the one with the ribbed handle for $10.

Where To Go Backpacking in Croatia

From April to late October, the sun settles over the Adriatic Sea. During the summer months, the days are long and warm and best enjoyed in flip-flops with a glass of something cold. This is the best time to go backpacking in Croatia in Central Europe, and if you do, here's my ultimate guide to the ten best places.

Table of Contents

Where To Go In Croatia

Where To Go In Croatia

1. Zagreb

Beautiful Zagreb Cathedral in Croatia (Getty Photo Licensed under the Unsplash+ License) — Zagreb Cathedral

The largest city in Croatia, Zagreb, is also the capital. It's a compact city with lots of landmarks, a city center, Lower Town, and the historic quarters of Gornji Grad (Old Town) and Kaptol all clustered around each other.

Once you've seen the capital city's major attractions, it's a good idea to imitate the locals by finding a cafe and spending the day people-watching.

2. Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of the best places to go backpacking in Croatia (Getty Photo Licensed under the Unsplash+ License) — Plitvice Lakes National Park

The Plitvice Lakes National Park, a short day trip from Zagreb, is a set of 16 lakes formed on a regenerative karstic basin. As stone and water interact, they create a visual spectacle: cascades and waterfalls, natural limestone barriers, pools, underground streams, and caves.

Plitvice National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is spread across two mountain ranges. It's connected by walkways and stairs, allowing nature lovers to explore one of Croatia's top national parks comfortably.

3. Rovinj

Waterfront buildings in Rovinj (Getty Photo Licensed under the Unsplash+ License) — Waterfront buildings in Rovinj

Rovinj is a sun-tanned pastel town on the Istrian peninsula. Once ruled by the Venetians, it has a definite Italian vibe with a Croatian twist. After spending some time around town, above town (in the church bell tower), and in the sea, find a summer fiesta to experience local traditions, Croatian food, and the local spirit.

4. Motovun

Motovun sits pretty on a hill above the Mirna Valley. This fairytale setting ensures the town's 12th-century walls see many activities, especially during the summer.

During the high season in August, there's the Motovun International Film Festival. Screens are set up along the town square as movie buffs gather by the thousands. Come October, foodies appear out of the woodwork to participate in the "Day of Truffles," celebrated across the valley.

5. Groznjan

Groznjan is an artists' colony a short distance from Motovun. This was a ghost town in decay when a group of artists moved in during the mid-sixties and transformed it.

Today, Groznjan is a center for art and culture known for its eclectic artists, studios, galleries, workshops, music schools, and concerts. It also has a fair share of wine bars and restaurants serving local delicacies.

Related: Croatia's Best Festivals

6. Split and Trogir

Split, Croatia (photo: Spencer Davis) — Aerial view of Split (photo: Spencer Davis)

Split is Croatia's second city and an important commercial hub. It is also home to one of the country's most significant historical sites: the 3rd-century Diocletian's Palace complex.

This historical theme extends to the museum town of Trogir, a few kilometers from Split. Trogir is packed with landmarks, many encased within the medieval town wall.

7. Hvar

Boats in Hvar (Getty Photo Licensed under the Unsplash+ License) — Boats

Hvar is known locally as "the sunny island" for the many hours of sunshine year-round. We have the Mediterranean climate to thank. It's also called the island of good living, where million-dollar yachts and celebrity sightings are common, especially near Hvar Away Villas, which offer luxury accommodations and stunning sea views.

This high-profile energy also makes Hvar Island the perfect place to party, from high-end clubs to cruises and beach parties; be sure to pack your dressy shoes.

Once you've experienced the fun this island is known for and want to explore the other Croatian islands, you can book a yacht for hassle-free travel. It's also an excellent way to experience sailing in Croatia.

8. Vis

Vis is the furthest island on Croatia's Dalmatian coast. Until the mid-nineties, it was off-limits to foreigners as a Yugoslav army base. Even in recent years, it has remained free of the summer rush typical of the rest of Croatia.

There's a decent party along the marina now and then, but if you want a quiet break, think of ripening vineyards, serene beaches, and secluded bays-Vis is worth a visit.

9. Korchula

The beautiful island of Korchula has always been a popular tourist destination, which is fitting considering a legend that claims Marco Polo was born here.

Its biggest town (and tourist attraction) is the fortified 15th-century Korchula town known as "Little Dubrovnik." But the Croatian island is more than just one town; there isn't a minute to spare between vineyards, olive groves, fishing villages, and sandy beaches.

10. Dubrovnik

The seaside city of Dubrovnik, Croatia (Getty Photo Licensed under the Unsplash+ License) — The coastal city of Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is Croatia's most famous destination, and for good reason. This 7th-century town is counted among the world's most impressive fortified cities. Within the city walls, many worlds thrive.

Ancient towers, defense posts, historic churches, museums, and modern homes stand tall along the same white-stoned streets. Beyond the walls, the blue sea beckons. Take the cable car for a birds-eye view of the Old Town and the sparkling Adriatic Sea.

While this list is limited to my picks for the ten best places to go backpacking in Croatia, there are many more beautiful islands and coastal towns to see. Wherever you decide to travel along Croatia's Adriatic Coast or interior, I hope you have a great time!

Mountain Gorilla Trekking in Volcanoes National Park

Awaking before dawn, I was amongst the first from our group to sit down at 6 AM for a hearty American-style breakfast of hot porridge, eggs, fruit, and coffee.

Considering a trek to see Rwanda's endangered mountain gorillas can take anywhere from 2-12 hours, I wanted to ensure my batteries were fully charged.

Excitement soon began to outweigh our sleepiness at the table.

Less than a week earlier, I was in suburban Virginia watching Gorillas in the Mist.

Now, I was in the heart of Africa, about to visit these critically endangered primates in person.

As we were about to get in our SUV's for the ride over to Volcanoes National Park, Kristin Luna arrived from Kigali.

The last member of our group had joined us just in time to take part in the country's number one tourist draw.

The early morning drive had us approaching the towering volcanoes that gave the park its name.

The locals were commuting by foot along the roadsides, as is commonplace throughout the country; kids welcomed us with enthusiastic waves.

Despite our best efforts, we still managed to arrive late.

Around the grounds of the visitor center, 6 other groups of 8 tourists each were receiving their briefings about the gorilla group they were assigned to see that day.

Each foreign tourist had paid $500 for their trekking permit, with the vast majority of that money used to fund the further protection of the gorillas.

We quickly learned that Kwitonda, the group we were assigned to visit, which crossed into Rwanda from the Democratic Republic of Congo about 5 years ago, was hanging out at the edge of the forest.

Our adventure would be over before lunch. While a protracted, bushwhacking endeavor might make for a few extra anecdotes over dinner, we weren't complaining.

During the 15-minute briefing, we learned a few things about mountain gorillas, but what stuck with me most was how they can be uniquely identified by their noseprints, similar to how humans have distinct fingerprints.

And then, long after all the other tour groups had departed, we were back in the SUV's, bouncing up and down rocky roads on the way to our entry point into the forest.

Upon exiting the vehicles, we were greeted with hand-carved wooden walking sticks, and our group's guard, who was equipped with an AK-47.

The firepower was needed not for the gorillas, but in case we ran into any other large beasts, such as buffalo, we were told.

Kristin and Ben at the start of the trek

The trek begins, as they so often do, by gingerly walking through farmland.

I checked the altitude at the line where the fields met the forest. At 2,350 meters, it was high enough to feel your breathing become a little labored, especially if you ran ahead to capture a photo looking back.

Our young female guide stopped us for a moment, before we climbed over a rock wall, to review the protocol around our approach and observance of the gorillas.

The tracker would alert us about 200 meters from the group, and at that point, we'd leave everything but our cameras behind.

Easier said than done for Eric and Peter, who both hired porters to carry all their gear.

Before the trip, I had picked up a long sleeve, breathable undershirt from REI, along with a synthetic short sleeve shirt from Mountain Hardwear.

The combination, along with my trusty, lightweight North Face pants, and Merrell shoes were the perfect outfit for the environment.

Soft, comfy Smartwool hiking socks completed the ensemble. I also carried a waterproof jacket in case it rained.

Trekking in the forest of Volcanoes National Park

Finally, we donned our waterskiing gloves, on loan to us from the park to protect against stinging nettles, and entered the forest.

The foliage was not as dense as I imagined, however, it still required one's attention to negotiate.

Whether you take gardening gloves from home or borrow ones from the park, their protection is worthwhile as it allows you to move through the forest with greater ease.

If you want to take photos en route, it's best to stop for a moment, as it is easy to trip over fallen logs and tangled roots hidden beneath the brush.

About 45 minutes into the trek, our guide said we were close; she could smell the gorillas.

I sniffed the air and noticed nothing unusual. And then Peter saw one.

We know this because he went to photograph it and was called back by the guide. So much for the 200-meter warning.

We left our packs with the porters. I stuffed my camera, Flip video camera, and Blackberry into a small nylon dry bag, in case it rained during the one hour we were allowed to spend with Kwitonda.

I took the lead position, right behind our male guide. We passed through a thick section of foliage and emerged into a small clearing.

He waved us through; ahead, no more than 10 meters, was a silverback gorilla munching on plants.

He didn't seem to care that we were there. Nonetheless, after a few minutes, he trotted out of sight once again.

A silverback gorilla rests upon a tree while feeding

We followed the guide further and found the silverback resting against a tree, still contently munching on plants.

It was really amazing, and of course, we were all taking photographs like crazy.

After another minute or two, we continued onward into a clearing where there were several more gorillas hanging out in the trees, and on the forest floor.

The real treat was seeing a mama gorilla pass by us with her baby on board.

As with panda bears, and all forms of cuddly wildlife, it's hard not to oooh and ahhh in such moments.

Family portrait - male silverback, mama, and baby gorillas

The mama gorilla spent a few minutes sitting by one of the two silverbacks in the group, which gave us a sense of the size difference between the male, female, and baby.

During our hour with the gorillas, the silverbacks ate, talked (our guide often interpreted for us), pounded their chest a few times (which is a way to keep warm, as well as communicate), and farted (though I didn't catch wind of that personally).

To our great amusement, two or three of the adolescents were playing the whole time.

Activities involved chasing one another around a thin tree trunk, knocking each other off a fallen tree, and swinging on vines.

Before leaving for Rwanda, I'd seen a few photos of travelers who'd captured the gorillas in the background, so it was a shot I knew I wanted.

Luckily, Ben came through with a photo that bears a striking resemblance to the infamous Crasher (aka Banff) Squirrel.

Despite our small group size, we were tripping over each other to get the best angles.

The official rule was to stay 7 meters from the gorillas but to be frank, we all managed to break it during the excitement, and were probably closer to 3-5 meters away at any given time.

As our time wound down, and we were being ushered away from Kwitonda, a young adolescent came traipsing down the thin path we were standing along.

The guides signaled for us to move away, but without knowing where to go, a few of us got a squeeze on the leg from the rambunctious teenager.

On an intellectual level, I knew it wasn't appropriate for the contact to have occurred, however in the moment that it rushed by, grabbing the cargo pocket on my left leg, I instantly knew how Dian Fossey could become so enamored with these gorillas.

On an emotional, instinctual level, it felt remarkable to have experienced physical contact with such a rare animal in its natural habitat.

Meanwhile, in what became known as "the moment" of the trip, Stefanie (aka Adventure Girl), having been touched by the gorilla as well, burst out that it had taken her BlackBerry.

Because gorillas, despite their furry exterior, and preference for living in the remote regions of central Africa, still enjoy mobile technology just as much as the rest of us primates.

___________

While numbers are slowly increasing, there are only about 700 mountain gorillas in existence.

They can be found in northwestern Rwanda's Volcanoes National Park, southwestern Uganda's Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, and along the eastern edge of the Democratic Republic of Congo in Virunga National Park, where they remain under the greatest threat from poachers.

Bond's Best Travel Moments

While mingling at a party a few weeks ago, a group of us started chatting about gender differences.

A friend loudly proclaimed, "Ha, you're more like a guy than not." Me? Possibly - this explains my taste in movies.

James Bond amply fills a checklist for male idealism.

Swanky, good-looking
Operates, and continually crashes a multitude of transport vehicles
Kill a man with his bare hands
Beds gorgeous ladies with funny-sounding names
A man of few words, but oodles of action

So, why have I watched every single Bond movie to date? He's a traveler, simple as that.

Every Spectre agent he hounds, woman he charms, and gadget sprung on his opponent is set in an exotic, scintillating locale.

As a gal who covets adventure, watching Bond makes it easy to slip myself into his shoes. Well, except the bedding ladies part. There would have to be a switcheroo.

Bond's adventures have taken him to over 60 countries, introducing him to 50 women, the guy has a solid track record.

With Bond 23 arriving at theaters in 2011, more espionage travel is on the way to reinvigorate the imagination.

Best Fight, Diamonds Are Forever, Vegas

Imagine Vegas winding down its heyday of the Rat Pack era.

The Vietnam War rages on, the disillusionment of youth culture continues, and women's liberation begins to take shape.

How fitting for Sean Connery's last turn as Bond to confront two able-bodied women.

On the hunt for his arch-nemesis Blofeld, Bond attempts to infiltrate a diamond smuggling ring, which is only a piece in Blofeld's plot to construct a giant laser satellite.

All clues lead to the Whyte House, a happening casino.

While attempting to rescue a kidnap victim, Bond encounters Bambi and Thumper, lethal bodyguards of Blofeld.

His usual effect on women falters, as both ladies double-team him with lithe acrobatics and martial arts.

Naturally, he subdues them, but not without a little sweat on the brow.

Best Chase Scene, Moonraker, Venice

M sends Bond to sniff out Hugo Drax, a wealthy industrialist suspected of stealing a space shuttle.

Drax's dastardly plan involves infecting the human race with a virus extracted from a rare South American plant and shooting the next master race into space to repopulate earth later.

With that in mind, Bond's detective skills take him to Venice.

While sizing up an attractive scientist (Dr. Holly Goodhead), he's chased through the canals of Venice by Drax's goonies.

In pure flabbergasting form, his gondola morphs into a hovercraft, allowing him to escape, giving tourists something to gawk at as he glides across the Piazza San Marco.

I could create a complicated algebra equation based on the numerous times the canals of Venice were used as a romantic setting for films or a Madonna video.

Still, Bond re-imagines a different Venice, one full of action and fantasy.

Best Foreign Girl, Quantum of Solace, Bolivia

Gone is the cheeky Bond, as Daniel Craig turns into one mean mutha.

Bolivia's landscape invokes feelings of isolation, an unsettling wave of rugged terrain.

In other words, be ready to struggle and fight. Revenge is on everyone's lips in this film, and Bond's female counterpart, Camille Montes, is no different.

In a quest to avenge Vesper Lynd's death, Bond unearths a phony environmentalist (Greene) and a corrupt Bolivian general (Medrano).

In a parallel side story, Camille also seeks revenge, but for the murder of her family at the hands of Medrano. She is the new wave of Bond girls, a woman who doesn't quit, even when circumstances seem dismal.

A hellcat able to clock a man with force. A gentle soul containing a world of pain. And you got to admit, she does it all looking damn fine.

My favorite scene is when she finally confronts Medrano alone.

A bit of trivia, she's the only Bond girl who doesn't meet him between the sheets, receiving an adrenaline-charged kiss at the end.

Best Villain, Goldeneye, St. Petersburg

After Bond's six-year hiatus, I was curious about how the creative team would reshape his character in the Post Cold War era.

Most of all, what kind of villain could add to the previous repertoire?

Pierce Brosnan's first try at Bond brings him to St. Petersburg, a city built by Peter the Great but animated by the aesthetic notes of Catherine the Great.

Crowned the "Slavic Venice" by travel aficionados, the baroque styling, majestic cathedrals, broad boulevards, and canals serve as the backdrop for Russia in the 1990s.

And that Russia has mostly reverted to the Wild West, swimming in unstable currency and gun-toting Russian Mafia enforcing cutthroat methods to build a black market empire.

A stark contrast of a breathtaking city against a criminal underbelly, but that's the tone of this film, nothing is as it seems, which is why Alec Trevelyan embodies this new stage of Bond.

A villain without the flash of sleek white cats or prosthetic hands that crush metal, what Alec exudes is cunning, sealing the betrayal of Bond when he fakes his death as 006.

Add revenge and greed to the mix, and we've got a recipe for unchecked evil. Best Alec line, "Why can't you just be a good boy and die!?"

Best Mode of Transportation - The Spy Who Loved Me, Sardinia

As Bond trots the globe, he's continuously handed vehicles or stealing one in an attempt to evade enemies.

You'll be surprised to know my favorite isn't the BMW or Aston Martin, although remarkable cars.

What turns my crank is the Lotus Esprit S1. Q personally delivers the Lotus to Bond at the Mediterranean soaked island of Sardinia, as he pursues Stromberg, a megalomaniac focused on destroying life above water to establish a colony undersea.

Jaws doggedly chases Bond and sexy Russian agent Anya Amasova in a helicopter stockpiled with weapons and a blinding hatred for 007.

The spectacular chase culminates when the Lotus dives off the shore. Come on! A car that doubles as a submarine?! Utter genius.

Could be my mermaid obsession or that time I wanted Aquaman to be my boyfriend, either way, that's the spirit of James Bond.

He symbolizes a zeal for life, openness to sensory detail, and a thirst for travel.

My name? Mark. Jeannie Mark.

__________

About the Author: Jeannie Mark is going MIA on her cubicle tour-of-duty to travel the world in 2010. Catch her adventures at Nomadic Chick or follow her on twitter: @nomadicchick.

Friday Flashback - Couchsurfing Adventures in Cape Town

After a few nights at The Backpack (hostel), I switched over to staying with Hannes, who agreed to host me via Couchsurfing. I was lucky enough to not only hang out with him a few nights, but to also have the chance to spend a few extra nights with the woman I sat next to on my Doha to Cape Town flight.

In the photo above, we're taking a sunset walk along a promenade; clouds just barely cover the top of Lion's Head mountain in the distance, which we would eventually climb together during sunrise one morning.

Couchsurfing with Hannes
Photos from Around Cape Town
Capetonian Adventures
Sunrise on Lion's Head and Table Mountain
Security Concerns - I almost got my pocket picked in broad daylight on a busy sidewalk.

Iby'Iwacu Cultural Village: Showcasing a Traditional Rwandan Way of Life

In the shadow of Volcanoes National Park, home to the endangered mountain gorillas of Rwanda sits Iby'Iwacu Cultural Village.

Here, reformed poachers have come together to showcase the traditional Rwandan way of life.

Visitors can gain entrance for $20 and are treated to song and dance performances (which can go on for 30 minutes at a time), a tour of the village, including the King's spacious abode, and various demonstrations from archery to grinding millet.

There is even an option to spend the night.

Ominous clouds gather over Volcanoes National Park

Peter captures the moment, while the locals look on

The dancers prepare for another performance

Theatrics played a role in the dance, but the storyline was lost on me

The little guy in leopard print imitates a gorilla, given away by the fact that he stuffs grass in his mouth and starts scratching himself.

To learn more about the Iby'Iwacu Cultural Village, check out this story by Rwanda Eco-Tours.

First Impressions On the Drive to Ruhengeri

The Kigali International Airport was so small that, even had I checked my backpack, it would've been no more than a few minutes before it appeared on the carousel for collection.

On the other side of the airport, blue skies and white puffy clouds floated over the capital city.

I was greeted by William, a representative of the Rwanda Development Board, who would be accompanying our group for the week.

He had a bright smile, which made for a lasting first impression.

We headed over to the LAICO Umubano Kigali Hotel to meet up with the rest of the group.

We walked straight through the hotel lobby, and onto the back patio overlooking the pool.

And thus began the introductions:

Ben - our British PR contact from Racepoint Group
Stef - Travel Expert with 1.5 million followers on Twitter / @adventuregirl / www.adventuregirl.com
Eric Lafforgue - Professional Photographer / @ericlafforgue / www.ericlafforgue.com
Peter Stuckings - Freelance Photographer / @peterstuckings / www.peterstuckings.com / www.indochinaimages.com
Amanda - Assistant Editor, Lonely Planet Magazine / @lonelyplanetmag / www.lonelyplanet.com/magazine

With little sense of shame (I swear it was the jetlag), I remember introducing myself to Peter by way of my intestinal challenges. I'm so glad he turned out to be a cool guy.

Teens put on a show for the kids in town

It wasn't long before our SUV caravan of two was heading northwest toward the city of Ruhengeri, our jumping-off point for the gorilla trek the following day.

I was in the back seat of a Suzuki SUV with Stef; our driver, Robert, was kept company by Ben in the front seat.

Everyone else was in a larger, more spacious Land Cruiser.

Rwanda is known as the "land of a thousand hills" and throughout our tour of the country, we would be following roads up, down, and around them.

Even though it's only about a two-hour drive from Kigali to Ruhengeri, we stopped for a bathroom break at a small town.

A crowd was gathered, but I had to take care of business before I could investigate.

When I emerged from the depths of the restaurant's less than pleasant facilities, I saw the rest of our group watching a song and dance performance being put on by some young men.

Their main audience was a group of 100 or more children who stood almost motionless.

Along the sides and back of the courtyard were older kids and adults looking on as well.

While we were there, four different guys performed.

For all the planned activities on our tour of the country, it was the serendipitous moments such as this one which would often make the day's highlight reel.

Curious kids swarmed us as we stopped to photograph a soccer game

The afternoon was quickly passing us by, so we jumped in the SUV's and headed off yet again.

It wasn't long before we came upon a soccer game in a wide green field.

Eric, Peter, and Amanda's SUV had already pulled over to take photos, and they were all swarmed by kids.

We stopped as well, and I jumped out to get some photos of the soccer game, only to find myself instantly surrounded by a circle 2-3 kids deep.

Before I could figure out what was happening, an older man, possibly in his early 40's, was standing before me, his hand extended for mine.

I shook it, and then he began to ask me questions in broken English.

I patiently tried to answer his questions, all the while feeling slightly off by the close proximity of so many children.

Clearly, they meant no harm, yet I'd never been in such a situation and I found it a little overwhelming that my ability to move freely was so limited.

Later, I referred to it as my first Michael Jackson moment.

Chicken, veggies, greens and rice — Chicken, veggies, greens, and rice

By dusk, we'd arrived at the Hotel Gorillas Volcanoes in Musanze.

After enjoying a brief respite in my room, which was on the first floor, overlooking the pool, I joined the others in the restaurant.

Dinner consisted of surprisingly tasty vegetable soup, chicken, veggies, greens, and rice, with an array of fresh fruit for dessert.

A trek to see endangered mountain gorillas, by far Rwanda's number one tourist attraction, awaited us at the crack of dawn.

Mammoth Lakes is Not Just For Skiing!

The view of Mammoth Lakes basin from atop Mammoth Mountain

Mammoth Lakes, a small ski resort community tucked inside Central California's Eastern Sierra Nevada mountains, is not just for skiing.

While snow sports are the #1 tourist attraction, I'd like to introduce you to the other travel opportunities that Mammoth has to offer.

At an altitude of 8,000' (2,440 meters,) Mammoth Lakes is home to five pristine lakes where you can fish, camp, hike, and kayak.

With many more lakes less than a 30-minute drive away, you won't need to fight the crowds.

If you like to golf, Mammoth has beautiful greens, including a gorgeous backdrop with sharp-edged granite mountains.

The famous Yosemite National Park is just a 45-minute drive North, and Tuolumne Meadows is not to be missed.

Driving to the end of highway 203 through Mammoth will land you at Devil's Postpile National Monument, a busy summer destination for tourists, fishers, and backcountry hikers.

Further sight-seeing opportunities include Mono Lake, California's largest natural lake with its dramatic tufa towers, and Bodie, a historic ghost town with a rich gold-mining history.

Top summer activities include hiking, mountain biking, fishing, & climbing.

As Mammoth lies in one of the largest calderas on Earth, it is geothermally active, and therefore, many natural hot springs abound.

Mammoth sees many international travelers year-round. As a resident of Mammoth Lakes, I have met many visitors from Europe, Canada, Australia, & Japan.

I've even met travelers from Brazil & India. If you love mountains, fresh air, and the outdoors, you'll love Mammoth Lakes.

Just one note of caution. Take it easy your first day or two at altitude.

We see many visitors with varying degrees of altitude sickness. Drink plenty of fluids & give yourself time to adjust to the lower oxygen levels.

_________

The 3-Day Journey to Rwanda on Ethiopian Airlines

Fish or steak?

My midnight dinner options at the Pacific Hotel were a far cry from the country's traditional cuisine I'd enjoyed in Washington, DC. I chose the steak, already having suspected one of the two servings of fish on my flights for being the cause of digestive disruptions. (It had taken every ounce of willpower for me to withstand the long immigration line, customs line, wait for a taxi, and ensuing ride to the hotel.)

Two large, thin, well done pieces of meat arrived with french fries; washed down by a bottle of Coca-Cola which had me burping as well. It was all too clear that my unplanned night in this exotic country would yield little in the way of new experiences. Adding insult to intestinal agony, any faint hope of a good night's sleep was scratched when I retired to my room and heard the chorus of stray dogs barking outside the hotel.

It was 1 AM in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.

Two days earlier, I received a text message moments before getting into a taxi to Dulles International Airport for my 10:30 AM flight. There was a 10-hour delay and I was suddenly leaving at 9 PM instead. Excitement about the start of my Rwandan adventure immediately gave way to anxiety about my late arrival. After confirming with the airline that mechanical problems with the aircraft in Rome were at fault, I returned to bed. Text messages continued to arrive; each one bumping my flight later and later, and my anxiety higher and higher.

At 7 PM, after driving the taxi dispatcher crazy all afternoon, I hopped in a cab and sped off to the airport. Eight months earlier, almost to the day, I had arrived at the same airport having completed a 20-month trip around the world.

Dulles was eerily quiet; only one man was ahead of me at the Ethiopian Airlines counter for check in. For a reason still unbeknown to me, I was unable to check my main backpack. I knew this would lead to a reckoning at the security checkpoint. As expected, my backpack was flagged by the x-ray screener for a hand search. The end result was the confiscation of my Swiss Army knife, which I took on a whim for no particular reason, and a full bottle of my favorite spray sunscreen.

To pass the time, I took a table at Moe's Grill and Bar in Terminal D, near Gate 23. I ate a quickly prepared order of chicken tenders, and in an uncharacteristic move, drank two cups of coffee. The caffeine, mixed with adrenaline, made me feel far too hyper for that time of night.

Around 11: 30 PM, my flight finally departed for the 8 ½ hour trans-Atlantic journey to Rome. Seated directly over the right wing, and seemingly the last to receive dinner, I was relegated to eating fish. On the plus side, the in-flight movie was "Up In the Air" which I enjoyed for the second time. Sleep happened in one hour bursts.

After refueling in Rome, we took to the air for another 5 ½ hours en route to Addis Ababa. It wasn't until we were about to land that I fully accepted the fact that there would be no connecting flight to Uganda that night. The staff of Ethiopian Airlines greeted each passenger as they disembarked with a rose; a small consolation for an enormous schedule disruption.

In the corridor leading to the transit lounge, I received a revised boarding pass for the morning's flight, and a voucher for a free night's hotel stay. To the airline's credit, I didn't have to pay a dime for the inconvenience.

Waiting for my flight to Entebbe, Uganda

The next morning, I was back at the Addis airport having benefited from a briefing on Rwanda over breakfast by Stuart, a Yale grad spending a gap year volunteering in the country.

The 1 ½ hour flight to Uganda went according to plan, as did the shorter 30-minute one past Lake Victoria to Kigali.

Jetlagged and incontinent, with a full day ahead, my adventures in Rwanda had just begun.

The diminutive Kigali International Airport

Friday Flashback - 5 Fun Activities in Cape Town

Cape Town and Table Mountain as viewed from Robben Island

I flew from Bangkok to Cape Town by way of Doha, on Air Qatar.

It was a long flight, and I have vivid memories of how boring it was to have a long layover at Doha airport. Not much going on there at night, I assure you.

After swinging through Johannesburg's airport as well, I finally touched down in Cape Town, and almost wasn't allowed into South Africa. Luckily, it was nothing a bit of money couldn't resolve, and then I was on my way.

Cape Town and the surrounding area is packed with fun opportunities to get out and experience the unique geography, stunning vistas, varied wildlife, and unique cultural heritage of South Africa.

Looking back, I packed a lot into my first few days, starting with a deliciously intoxicating wine tour.

The Air Qatar Flights
My South Africa Snafu - aka the time when Immigration wouldn't let me into the country!
The Western Cape Winelands
Daytripping the Cape Peninsula
District Six and The Townships
Touring Robben Island

Views of Cape Town

A big part of Cape Town's exotic appeal rests in the natural geography upon which the city developed.

Situated along the southwestern tip of the African continent, it has ocean views, beaches, and stunning mountains which can be climbed in dozens of different ways.

Downtown Cape Town as seen from the water

Real estate along the coast is very expensive

From left: Lion's Head, Table Mountain, and the 12 Apostles

Table Mountain as seen from the V&A Waterfront

Looking down on Lion's Head from atop the taller Table Mountain

Camp's Bay and the 12 Apostles (mountains)

Construction of a new soccer stadium for the 2010 World Cup

Daily Life in Ng'iresi Village, Tanzania

A cacophony inundates the streets of Arusha, Tanzania, and two uninvited teenage boys leech onto Harriet and me. They are now our "unofficial" tour guides.

They trail us from place to place, through the food market to the airplane ticket office, and even wait outside a restaurant while we eat. They are persistent in showing us their artwork and want us to give them money, as after all, they are our tour guides.

The aggression is overwhelming, and with our annoyance levels blood red, we seek solace at the Tanzania Tourist Board.

Electing for a half-day tour to Ng'iresi village, a lanky, soft-spoken man introduces himself as Emmanuelle. His gentle voice is music to our ears.

We happily endure the bumpy ride on dusty mud roads to his village, 7 km out of town. It is scattered along the steep, lush slopes of Mt. Meru and includes a 3km precipitous hike up the mountain.

The Wa-arusha, an offshoot of the Maasai, has shifted from semi-nomadic to stable agriculture. Eating only what they grow and using all parts of the plants, they use every living thing.

Instead of using animals as meat, cows are used for milk, and chickens for eggs. People barter for sugar, salt, rice, and meat, which is eaten only on special occasions.

Families still live in traditional bombas, and all homes are similarly constructed. The roof is thatched from banana trees, and a concoction of plaster, cow dung, and ashes forms the walls.

The smoky kitchen is in the middle of the small round hut. The black fumes replace the air, making breathing difficult.

Cows occupy the right side, as traditionally they sleep in the hut. The women sleep on the left, and the boys sleep up front so they can protect the family.

Our hosts have no personal possessions except for some bowls and plates, a few clothes, and some shoes. Harriet remarks, "We took more on our three-week trip than these people own."

It's incredibly true. It's amazing how much stuff we own and don't need. And this simple life exists just down the road from the bustling, dangerous, and consumer-driven town of Arusha. Our society is based on now, and more; theirs is based on basics and essentials.

The roofs need replacing before every rainy season, and the walls need re-plastering every six months. The village pitches in to help build houses, plant crops, and care for the animals. Emmanuelle notes, "If someone is sick, the people in the village carry him down the mountain's steep slopes."

With this dynamic sense of community, the village is one family, and traditions hold integrity. We have lost so much since the industrial age: culture, tradition, a tight community, and the idea of helping your neighbor without ulterior motives.

Emptiness in our lives is filled with stuff instead of loving and caring human relationships. We have lost this connection with the past, while they struggle to keep it alive.

____________

About the Author: Lauren Becker is a filmmaker turned travel writer lucky enough to travel the world for work and fun. She enjoys sharing her experiences through the written word, the still photograph, and the moving image. Read more at her website, laurenbecker.net, or follow her on Twitter @filmlb.

Friday Flashback - Cooking, Tigers, & Trekking in Chiang Mai

As I was running low on time before my flight to South Africa, I opted to fly from Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai, rather than take the slow (and noisy) river boat.

Chiang Mai felt like Bangkok transplanted in the north.

All the tourist-oriented businesses were present: tourist agents ready to book every activity in the region, internet cafes, hostels, and lots of cooking schools.

Plus, I was back in the land of 7-11's.

I spent a week in Chiang Mai, and that included a 3-day, 2-night hill tribe trek which was a mixed bag.

For me, hanging out with tigers, learning to cook authentic Thai food, and shooting a machine gun were more fun.

I now recommend that people go on a hill tribe trek in northern Laos for a more authentic, less developed experience.

Landing in Chiang Mai
Thai Cookery School
Dare #15 - Completed - The Art of Muay Thai Boxing
Befriending Tigers
Soldier of Fortune - shooting my first machine gun
Day 1 - Hill Tribe Trek
Day 2 - Elephant Rides
Day 3 - Whitewater Rafting
Thailand - It's a Wrap

Next week, we leave Asia behind for South Africa!

Gorillas In the Mist: The Story of Dian Fossey

A chance to see endangered mountain gorillas in the wild is the primary reason I'm heading to Rwanda this weekend. And it's probably the primary reason most other travelers would put the tiny, central African nation on their itinerary as well. To prepare for this once-in-a-lifetime experience, I watched the 1988 film "Gorillas in the Mist."

The movie, featuring Sigourney Weaver, recounts the story of American zoologist Dian Fossey, who traveled to the Congo in 1966 to take a census of the gorillas. The Congolese soon kicked her out, and she went to Rwanda, where she began her work anew.

It was fascinating to watch how she learned to mirror the gorillas' body language, behavior, and sounds. By doing so, she was able to interact with them in a close and personal way.

Her attachment to them sometimes resembled an obsession, and even her love interest, a National Geographic photographer named Bob Campbell, described her as "weird and wonderful."

The man who kills the animals today is the man who kills the people who get in his way tomorrow. -- Dian Fossey

Watching footage of the mountain gorillas was equally fascinating. It was easy to see how Fossey became so enamored with them.

The knowledge that I will soon be crouched in the jungle, observing mountain gorilla behavior just as she had done, is still hard to believe.

Ironically, Fossey was opposed to tourism and the region being turned into a "zoo," fearing that humans would spread disease to the gorillas and disrupt their natural habitat.

As human populations increase, however, it seems that we must take those risks; otherwise, there is no economic incentive for local people to protect indigenous wildlife populations.

The depiction of poaching in the movie was saddening, as these majestic gorillas would have their heads, hands, and feet chopped off for a pittance in US dollars.

Fossey's demise was equally violent and remains a mystery to this day. She was buried in the same cemetery where she laid gorillas to rest.

Dian Fossey dedicated 18 years of her life to the protection of mountain gorillas in Rwanda, and she is credited with helping to save them from the edge of extinction.

My Favorite Cups of Coffee from Around the World

At home, I tend to enjoy a cappuccino when being social or after a delicious meal.

On the road, I drink coffee regularly, often as a way to stake my claim to a table in a cafe or restaurant so I can take a break, people watch, read, and write in my journal.

And once I hit Colombia, where I felt the necessity to enjoy top export regularly, I went so far as to make a cup of coffee for myself each morning for several months.

Cutest presentation - Hervey Bay, Australia

Bungalow restaurant - Thong Nai Pan Noi (beach), Koh Phangan, Thailand

Cafe gelado and banana muffin - Cape Town, South Africa — Cafe gelado and a banana muffin - Cape Town, South Africa

Thick, dark Turkish coffee - Cairo, Egypt

Staying with a friend - Tilburg, Holland

Nescafe on the train from Bordeaux to Barcelona

The First Pan American Couchsurfing Collective

A group of Couchsurfers gathered to watch the sunrise over Copacabana Beach on New Year's day.

Many people incorrectly assume that Couchsurfing is solely about opening up your couch to strangers, or in turn sleeping on a stranger's couch. This could not be further from the truth and a perfect example of one of the many ways Couchsurfing can be used to better your life and your travels was an experience that I recently had in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

I booked my trip to Brazil before discovering that there was going to be the first ever Pan American Collective held during the exact time I would be there. Normally when I travel solo, if I am not Couchsurfing to begin with, I make sure to meet up with local Couchsurfers in order to 1) get a insider's perspective on the city that I am in, and 2) to have some company.

The Pan American Collective was a week of events, ranging from parties to sightseeing to sports activities, all centered around the main event, which was New Year's Eve. When the organizers of the Collective began this project I do not believe they realized just how many people would be interested in participating. It ended up drawing around 1,000 Couchsurfers from all over the world, and while it was more people than they had originally planned for, the Collective was nothing short of a success.

Since I already had friends in Brazil that I had promised to spend time with, I was unable to attend all of the events. I did attend several though, and of course I attended the New Year's Eve celebration on Copacabana Beach.

Me with some new friends from Europe and South America.

It was such an extraordinary feeling to be surrounded by hundreds of people who shared my same passion for exploration in such a gorgeous location. I made so many new life-long friends that night!

Since the Collective was well-received, there are more in the works now. I highly recommended attending one if the opportunity presents itself.

As previously mentioned, this is just one example of how to utilize Couchsurfing. In several weeks, I will be traveling to India and I will report back with more examples.

A Praying Statue, Not Buddha

This is a guest post by Michael Lynch. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

The weather not being especially great for landscape photography the past few months convinced my shooting partner, Doc and I that we ought to drive around and find some interesting things to take pictures of indoors. I'm an outdoors type person and not really thrilled about going to museums or shopping centers to use my camera. I'd rather be using my digital film on the beach or in the jungles.

We live on the island of Okinawa, in Japan. Sunday is the day, once a week we get a chance to pack up all our camera gear and drive to remote locations, get pictures of wildlife, castles, or scenery and get off the beaten path. Most importantly, we get to speak our native language, English with someone who understands every word we say. I guess the talking without teaching is just as important as the time spent with the camera. Our wives are Japanese and so is everyone else we see all week long.

So, Doc shows up at my house one morning in December (He lives 40 miles north of me) and asks, " Where should we go today?"? My usual response is " Anywhere, just follow the sun."? But, as it turned out, there was no sun; it was a windy, cloudy day.

Doc asked me if I'd ever seen the biggest Buddha statue on the island; it's indoors. So, I said, " Sounds like a plan to me. Let's go."?

Located about half an hour's drive south of Naha International Airport, is Peace Memorial Park. Located on Mabuni hill and cliffs are several stone monuments and shrines dedicated to peace. Many people, during the Battle of Okinawa, during World War II were either killed or committed suicide during the war in and around this location, civilians and military alike.

On previous visits, I had seen all the stone monuments and the black walls inscribed with over 200,000 names of those who died during the battle. I didn't want to see them again. The visit and chance to photograph the humongous statue of Buddha, indoors, was what I came to do. Doc had been there before on a guided tour. This time, however, he was going to get a chance to use his camera skills he'd developed over the past 10 years and get some professional photos.

The statue is located inside what looks like a white tower. It reminds me of a New England Lighthouse, only as you get close to it, you see it's not round. It has seven columns. They represent the seven seas of the world.

Inside, at the entrance, you pay 450 yen (about $5.00) and are handed a pamphlet which describes what you are about to see. This was quickly stuffed in my camera bag while I started setting up equipment to compose my photos. The place was nearly deserted and I wanted to use my tripod before a busload of tourists arrived.

Over 36 feet tall and 24 feet in diameter, the statue appears to be bronze and it is illuminated by spotlights from above. As I tried to move around composing the picture and focusing on the face, something dawned on me. This didn't look like any Buddha I'd ever seen before.

That's when I decided I'd better check the literature they gave me at the door. It wasn't Buddha. The artist who created this statue was a man named Shinzan Yamada. During the war, he lost two sons in the battle. He wanted to create a statue dedicated to peace, world peace.

The materials used in creating this monument, were imported from China, three and a half tons of lacquer ware. The artist was 72 years old when he started the project. He worked by himself. Twice, during the construction of his masterpiece, he fell from the scaffolding, injuring himself. The project took 18 years; Shinzan was 90 years old when he put the final touches on it.

The Peace Prayer Statue is simply a symbol of an Okinawan man praying for world peace. A single photo of it from one angle cannot do justice to this work of art, nor can my words accurately describe it. It radiates the artist's determination and hopes for a better world to live in. Not just for the people of this Pacific island. It's for everyone around the world. It'd be worth your while to come and see.

__________

About the Author: Michael Lynch is a wildlife photographer and travel writer living in Okinawa, Japan. He has been published in several online magazines and writes Camera Talk for In The Know Traveler.

More of his work may be seen at http://www.mikesryukyugalley.com

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro: Conquering the Summit and Myself

"It's not a hike at all; it's a personal journey," Brennan says as we sit clutching hot cocoa in our mess tent with two pairs of gloves on, teeth still chattering. It's 11 p.m. and -4 degrees Fahrenheit outside the tent, and we're on the verge of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.

We wear everything we own, five layers of pants, six layers of shirts and jackets, to the "Last Supper" before beginning the summit push at midnight.

Twelve of us had come this far, hiking four days to 15,500 feet to Kibu Hut. Now, it was time to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro, and at 19,330 feet, not all of us would make it.

Tonight. Tonight is where you feel the mountain. Tonight, it is you against the mountain. Everyone wants to reach the top for personal reasons, having their odyssey.

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro has been a trek to self-awareness, climaxing tonight, the push to the summit. You versus the mountain, and who is going to win?

It was only yesterday that I sat on the edge of the Earth, on top of brownish-red volcanic rocks, staring at the jagged peaks that form Mawenzi Peak (16,890 feet), one of Kilimanjaro's three dormant pinnacles.

The saw tooth crests, which started so far away as a tiny apex just three days ago in the distance, are now upon me, and I have walked to see them up close and personal.

A few people have tried to summit Mawenzi Peak, but they have all failed or died trying, as the volcanic rocks crumble easily.

Turning around and dangling my legs over the rocks, I look down onto the endless ocean of white fluffy clouds and watch the ever-changing, endless cloud formations under my feet.

The Buddhists say, "Clouds are like thoughts." I see the truth in this; some thoughts are thick and heavy, some are light and fluffy, some are quick to form and ever-changing.

They are real and imaginary all at the same time, and both are fields of energy. From here, it looks like you could float on top of the billows, as they seem to have matter to them, substance, and depth.

But they don't, just like thoughts. Heaven must look like a barren valley landscape with clouds drifting to infinity, and these are the gates to paradise.

Looking around from the vast white sea with sparse vegetation, the dry landscape should be covered with snow this high up at 13,800 feet, but man's actions have deprived the peaks of moisture.

Soon, Kilimanjaro will not have snow on it, and the glaciers will have all melted. This is a clear representation of global warming and our direct effect on this planet.

Mt. Kilimanjaro is the most accessible of the seven summits for tourists to climb, offering several different routes, accommodations, and trip lengths.

I chose to do the Rongai Route, a 6-day hike, on the easier end of the spectrum, with camping in tents.

Although it's the highest, most walkable mountain in the world, with its gently sloping topography until the last day, where the trek to Gillman's Point is a steep climb to a plateau of Kibu Summit, fitness is critical, and walking 6-8 hours a day is not uncommon.

My guide company, Africa Travel Resource, subcontracts out to The African Walking Company, which is highly regarded for its skillful guides, excellent service, and high success rate of clients reaching the summit.

AWC led the Red Nose Climb, a trip of British celebrities that climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro for charity. Matthew, a 22-year-old Brit in our group, even slept in Cheryl Cole's sleeping bag!

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania — Hiking above the clouds

To reach this magical place above the ocean of white, we scrambled upwards for three hours and watched the landscape reshape before our eyes from vegetation to volcanic rocks, flowers, and birds to nothing except the everlasting flower.

True to its name, the everlasting flower can withstand all conditions. Hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro is unique because it involves passing through four different microclimates: rainforest, savannah, glacial, and high desert.

Samuel, our 55-year-old guide, who has been leading treks (and consequently smokes cigarettes during breaks as we are panting and struggling for breath) for over 20 years, sets the pace.

The local mantra is "pole pole," which means "slowly, slowly." Altitude acclimatization is essential. However, it is too pole-pole for me as one of the strongest in the group, along with Henry, a professional trekker and medical student.

We converse with the guide to see if we can proceed just a little bit so we won't trip over the rest of the group, and he obliges.

I understand the purpose of going slow and know I must stay with the group, but frustration can get the best of me. However, "pole-pole" is a good life lesson.

Not everything in this world needs to happen now or quickly. Everything happens in its own due time, and I must respect that.

As Americans, we are accustomed to our fast-paced society, and everything is now, now, now, but the rest of the world does not work on our schedule.

It's good to slow down and look left and right as I'm hiking. Since I am going so slowly, I can appreciate the views, breathe everything in, lift my head to see the world around me, feel what's in the air, and see the horizon.

Camp - Day 5 on Mt. Kilimanjaro — Camp - Day 5

It's midnight, and we all queue up, frost hanging on every visible breath, headlights spotted to emulate a small circle in front of us, walking sticks in hand, as we start the six-hour pilgrimage to the top.

With the sky bearing down on us, the darkness surrounding us, and the stars illuminating the sky, our group trudges upward, scree underneath our feet.

There was utter silence except for the guides singing melodious African songs, which kept us focused and aligned with them and the universe.

Following the stars, I think about being one with nature and observing the natural forces of things. I also realize that events are not random and situations shouldn't be judged as good or bad.

On that mountain, nothing else matters except putting one foot in front of the other. If nothing else matters, then I should concentrate on living in the present, in what is happening right now, opening myself up to feeling every experience rather than just having it.

The star-filled night was cold, and my feet and fingers tingled from numbness, but I had on too many layers and began feeling warm.

The altitude sickness hit, and the weight of the mountain was revealed. I felt dizzy, couldn't walk straight, was very lightheaded, and my mind started to lose focus.

I was hot and didn't like the Balaclava (a ski mask-like item of clothing). My legs turned to jelly and mush. But I could view the immense beauty creating the night and began concentrating on the stars.

I followed the outline of the Kibu Summit against the glow of the backdrop of the universe, and as I continued upwards, the outline and the curvature of the Earth would change. I knew time was passing, and I was gaining altitude.

The magnificence of the night sky engulfed us along the mountain. Some people in the group didn't even notice the stars or the sky; all they did was look down at their feet, counting steps.

I don't want to live that way anymore. I don't want to look down all the time and not see anything happening around me.

I want to open my eyes, look around, and see the outline of mountains in the darkness, the brightness of the stars, and the tiny pebbles slogging underneath my feet.

The mental game in climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro begins, trudging along for hours uphill in silence.

Can I zig-zag up a mountain, not even on a path, just sludging through loose gravel for six hours in the middle of the night at -4 degrees Fahrenheit, with the altitude affecting me in many different ways?

It was a mental game against myself, and I was sometimes losing. I envisioned turning around, as Martin and Fiona had, feeling so sick and wanting to vomit anytime I ate anything, but I had to keep up the energy. Failure was not an option.

About two hours into the hike, I couldn't imagine doing this for another four hours, but after three hours, I thought, " Well, I can't go back, as it's just as far to go back as it is to finish it up. "

Sunrise from the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro

And so I dragged on, this lunar landscape, scree underneath my feet. Suddenly, Henry halted in front of me, pointing to the night sky: "Look, a shooting star!"

A big white ball of illumination flew across the heavens. I knew then that the universe was taking care of me, giving me the strength to carry on.

Finally, less than two hours were left, and I knew I would reach the top. Around 5:30 a.m., the sky was getting a bit brighter, and the first light was close.

My energy shifted, adrenaline kicked in, and I had a second wind, with actual spring to my step as we scrambled over thick boulders.

Paulo Coelho best sums it up in The Valkeries: "I died, and I was reborn again."

The mountain kicks your ass, drags you down, beats you and sucks every ounce of life and energy out of you, and leaves you for dead, and then the light comes and revitalizes your heart, mind, and soul.

Out of the darkness, the sun started to rise about 20-25 minutes before we reached the pinnacle, the orange and red peaking out of the black to outline the Mawenzi Peak.

As Brennan said the day before, "I better see God up there," and I believe we did. Looking towards Mawenzi Peak, lit in golden light and peering down onto infinite white clouds, tears flowed out of me like a faucet.

After overcoming such obstacles and conquering the mountain, I stood on the top and looked around. I had reached the roof of Africa.

See also: Climbing Mount Meru in Tanzania

David, Harriet, and Lauren (the author) at summit, after climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro — David, Harriet, and Lauren (the author) at the summit

Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro is a very humbling experience. It essentially strips the roles in which we identify: husband, wife, mother, father, profession, class, social status, the city you live in, etc.

It peels away your ego and forces you to look inside yourself, see what you are made of, and find out who you are. All that's left is YOU and the mountain.

As Hassan, the psychotherapist on the trip, said, "You climb the mountain from the outside and the inside."

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About the Author: Lauren Becker is a filmmaker turned travel writer who is lucky enough to travel the world for work and fun. She enjoys sharing her experiences through the written word, still photographs, and moving images. Watch her videos on Vimeo or follow her on X @filmlb.

Friday Flashback: Vang Vieng & Luang Prabang

Tubing in Vang Vieng was the driving force behind my visit to Laos. It turned out to be as good a reason as any, and I was glad to make it to the little backpacker haven for my 32nd birthday as well. I celebrated with rock climbing by day, and Korean BBQ and beers by night.

Then it was on to Luang Prabang, and a little culture (ie. more temples), before I jetted over the border to northern Thailand.

An iPhone App for Travel Health

There is a new addition to iTunes' line-up of travel apps. The app, called Travel Health, is based on the book "Travelling Well" by Dr. Deborah Mills, a travel medicine specialist in Australia.

While the medical information in the app is accurate, easy to read, and understand, there is much room for improvement in three key areas.

1. Design

I would like to see the categories organized alphabetically or in a "head to toe" fashion. Searching to find the desired topic would be easier this way.

When some of the categories are opened, a pop-up STOP window opens and alerts the reader of potential emergencies. I found this to be irritating.

The information is important, but I'd rather see it highlighted at the beginning of the description. I also didn't care for the arrows to open/close the topics of the category.

2. Search function

This is lacking, and many symptoms cannot be found using search.

For instance, CPR (Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation) cannot be found in the search box, but it is listed under Collapse in the Emergencies category. Searching "yeast" will also not appear, but yeast infections are covered under the topic of "Thrush."

Being an international application, I think it's important to include additional names for problems to find them using search. It would also be nice to be able to search for drugs using the search function.

3. Important missing symptoms

Under Chest Problems, there is no mention whatsoever of chest pain or heart palpitations, an important oversight.

Since 16.7 million people globally die of cardiac disease, it is vital to include its signs and symptoms.

What I Liked

The feature I really like is the drug reference table. Its design is easy to use, and it gives pertinent relevant information.

The layperson can easily look up a drug name and view other names for the drug, which is helpful for the international traveler.

The dosing information is convenient also. The information on Altitude Sickness is excellent, and I also like the bookmark function to save favorite topics.

As an emergency department registered nurse, I believe this app has a good start.

The developers need to work on the design issues a bit, especially the search function, and it is imperative to add cardiac symptoms to its Chest Problems category.

The app is currently on sale for $2.99 with a regular price of $7.99. I rated the app a 3 out of 5 stars.

Signs of South Africa

The signs of South Africa reflect two realities coexisting within the country hosting 2010's World Cup: the diversity of wildlife, and the high crime rate.

Food options at The Backpack (hostel) - Cape Town

Caution: Western Leopard Toads - near Cape Town

The Great White Shark Festival - Hermanus

Riding of Ostriches at Own Risk - Outdshorn

Super Tubes - Jeffrey's Bay — Super Tubes (popular wave in surfing) - Jeffrey's Bay

Mugging Beyond this Point - Jeffrey's Bay

Dung Beetles Have Right of Way - Addo National Elephant Park

Dazu: An Under-Visited Treasure of Sichuan

Most people who come to Sichuan either do so because they are about to head to Tibet on a trek, or to visit Chengdu and its surrounding tourist attractions, especially the pandas and Lei Shan and Emei Shan, two large standing Buddhas. Few ever go see Dazu Rock Carvings, which is convenient from both Chengdu and Chongqing.

To be honest, I wouldn't have ever gone to Dazu if it weren't for my art historian father. But still, at his imploring and the advice of a guidebook, I figured why not? Plus, I usually figure things were named UNESCO World Heritage sites for a reason. That's been a good rule of thumb for me in the past.

In this case, my rule held true- Dazu is absolutely worth a visit. It's a beautiful site with carvings dating back to the 7^th century, though the vast majority of them were made from the 9^th to 12^th centuries. Dazu rock carvings are actually at five separate sites, but Baoding shan (or Mount Baoding) is the most famous one, and the one you are most likely to go to, especially on a tour.

While the vast majority of the carvings are typical Buddhist scenes, such as Buddha entering nirvana, what's particularly neat about Dazu is the scenes where Confucianism and Buddhism seem to mix. For example, the stories of Buddha offering his eye to his father, when his father needed nutrition, and other such tales are very influenced by Chinese filial piety. There were also many " Boschian"? images of gruesome tortures in hell. There are even special kinds of hell like knife-stabbing hell. Yeah, that'll teach you.

So, if you do decide to go (and you should), you can do so easily from either Chongqing or Chengdu. I went from Chongqing, opting for a day package trip rather than personally arranging the public bus, though either is possible and guidebooks or Wiki can tell you more. Any of the multitude of travel agencies in Chongqing that offer river cruises will also have a trip to Dazu, usually starting at about 300 RMB but you should be able to get them down to 150 RMB or so.

Dazu is one of the best places in Sichuan you've never heard of. Look into it.

#Rwanda Trip: Vaccinations & Preventing Malaria

For such an exotic, far-flung trip to central Africa, there isn't a whole lot I need to do in terms of preparing for my Rwandan adventure.

After backpacking for 15 straight months, and always being on the go, the process has become like second nature to me. I know what I will pack, and how I will pack it. I know there are a few toiletries and miscellaneous items I'll want to pick up, but there's no rush, and none of it is critical. I could be asked to leave tomorrow morning and I'd chuck my stuff in the 'ole backpack and know I'd have a great time of it.

After buying the cheapest plane ticket I could find, ensuring my immunizations were up-to-date for that region was the next most important thing I could come up with. I Google'd "CDC Rwanda" and the first result was the recommendations by the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Recommended Immunizations

Routine (includes Measles, Mumps, & Rubella, Diptheria, Pertussis & Tetanus, Polio)
Yellow Fever
Hepatitis A & B
Typhoid
Rabies

As a result of all the shots I got before my 'round the world trip back in Fall 2007, I only needed to re-up my Typhoid. The oral vaccine lasts 5 years, and I had gotten it the first time for my trip to Costa Rica in 2005.

The Rabies vaccine is expensive, and even if you're bitten by a rabid animal, you still need to get shots. Instead, I intend to keep a safe distance from all primates, bats, and miscellaneous mammals I come across.

Malaria Prevention

According to the CDC:

All of the following antimalarial drugs are equal options for preventing malaria in Rwanda: Atovaquone/proguanil, doxycycline, or mefloquine.

Thankfully, my drug of choice, doxycycline, is an option for Rwanda. No side effects to-date, and since I don't have prescription drug coverage, the inexpensive cost is also a factor for me.

The Appointment

I made an appointment with a county-run travel clinic, and when I met the nurse who took my info, and said I was going to Rwanda, she responded "where is that?" I got up and pointed to what seemed like the tiniest country in Africa on the same National Geographic map that I use to have hanging on my apartment wall for years. Her response was something along the lines of that being a region of the world where all the diseases come from.

Her chat about food and water safety was all a formality, nothing I wasn't already aware of, though I suppose it's good to have a reminder from time to time - keep oneself in check and all.

Then the doctor came in and gave me the little box of live Typhoid vaccine, which requires refrigeration, and a doxy prescription.

Cost

Office visit = $42
Typhoid (oral) = $60
Malaria (40 pills) = $30

Total = $132

Lunch at Blue Ribbon Sushi (Manhattan)

In April 2007, I wrote about one of the best late-night dining experiences of my life, courtesy of Blue Ribbon Manhattan. Ever since I've wanted to go back.

When I won a Sosauce postcard contest recently and a $50 gift certificate to the New York City restaurant of my choice, I felt like the time was right to try Blue Ribbon Sushi.

I invited Michaela from Briefcase to Backpack to lunch, and as the snow was starting to accumulate on the city streets, we met outside the signless entrance to a little culinary slice of Japan.

Sashimi: O toro (blue fin tunabelly), jellyfish, and blue crab — Sashimi: O toro (bluefin tuna belly), jellyfish, and blue crab

The intimate restaurant featured a sushi bar, a few small tables, and 6 booths (where we were seated).

Further back beyond the booths was a narrow hallway leading to restrooms, a table in an alcove perfect for giving a small dinner party that exclusive feel, and then extra tables in the far back.

I was excited to push my sushi boundaries and try some new things.

My first course included a single o toro, the highest quality piece of tuna you can get, jellyfish, which I'd never tried before, and some blue crab for good measure.

The $15 piece of tuna melted in my mouth, however, it wasn't an Earth-shattering experience, and now that I've tasted the tender belly of a tuna, I'll be happy to return to the more moderately priced regions.

The jellyfish was dipped in something, possibly soy sauce, to give it color and flavor, as I don't think it has much of either on its own.

I liked it because it had the consistency and shape of gummy worms.

Trust me, nothing to be afraid of with jellyfish (at least not the kind I ate). And the crab was crab.

I enjoyed having it nicely presented to me, sans claws and shell.

Of course, three pieces of sashimi are hardly enough to fill one's stomach, so Michaela was kind enough to share her California and tuna rolls with me as we talked about the business of blogging.

Meanwhile, I ordered a few more items and drank about a dozen cups of green tea (they were very on-point about refilling my cup, which was a nice way to keep warm given the snow and cold weather outside).

My next dish was an appetizer of salmon tartare with a quail egg, scallions, and soy sauce.

I mixed it all with the chopsticks, and it turned out to be quite a lot more than it seemed at first.

I was starting to feel full, but there was still room for more.

I believe I ordered the tuna with avocado, but when smoked salmon and shiso (a green leafy herb) arrived, I didn't feel the need to send it back.

The shiso was nicely tucked inside the rice, and it provided a freshness in each bite, kind of like eating a breath mint.

Our lunch easily lasted two hours, and I never felt rushed, which earns the restaurant bonus points in my book.

The quality of food was excellent, the service was solid, and the atmosphere was perfect.

Blue Ribbon restaurants are two for two in my book.

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Blue Ribbon Sushi - 119 Sullivan Street (between Prince and Spring Streets), New York City

#Rwanda Trip: The 6-Day Itinerary

In less than two weeks, I'll be exploring the Rwandan countryside in the heart of Africa.

Yeah, I still can't get over that, and probably won't until I'm actually there, and then I'll still feel like I'm in a surreal dream.

I'm a big believer in dropping oneself in another country with a guidebook and without a plan, but when time is limited, and countries are on the less developed side of the spectrum, an organized tour can be a welcome thing.

I learned that first hand when I took package trips to Kruger Park in South Africa, the Okavango Delta in Botswana, and on a cruise ship down the Nile River in Egypt.

Here's what my schedule looks like, minus all the airplane rides.

Day 1 - March 20th

Arrival in Kigali

Day 2 - March 21st (Kigali - Ruhengeri)

Kigali City tour (4-hour tour around historical sites of Kigali, view latest developments, visit the Kigali Genocide memoriam)

Day 3 - March 22nd (Ruhengeri - Gisenyi)

Trek to see Mountain Gorillas
Afternoon visit to Iby'Iwacu Village

Day 3 - March 23rd

Tour of Gisenyi (L.Kivu, Paradis Malahide, Akeza Island, Bralirwa, Amashyuza)

Day 4 - March 24th

Boat Ride to Nyungwe stopping at Cyangugu
Visit Interpretation Center/ Trek to see Colobus monkeys

Day 5 - March 25th (Nyungwe)

At 4am - Track Chimpanzees at Cyamudongo Forest
Canopy Walk, Visit Dubai World Hotel /waterfalls

Day 6 - March 26th

Drive to Kigali, Visit National Museum

I have a 7th day and night in Kigali to do whatever I want before I head home.

Rwanda is a small country, however I still have a feeling the days will be long, especially when we're waking up early to track gorillas and chimps in the forests.

Is there any aspect of the trip you'd like to see covered more than another?

Food, wildlife, local people, safety situation, genocide, political climate, etc?

Dogs & Beers: DC Travel Happy Hour #4

DC Travel happy hours are starting to gain traction in the best way possible.

A mix of regulars and newbies show up at each one, and whether the people have been around the world, or just around a city block, makes no difference.

March's venue, as chosen by Stephanie of Twenty-Something Travel, was The Big Hunt, a perennial favorite in Dupont Circle.

I arrived early and met up with Carolyn, who I was initially e-introduced to by Sherry Ott.

Carolyn started a non-profit called Dog Meets World, which aims to bring people together through photography.

The idea is for travelers to carry a little stuffed dog, and a portable photo printer, wherever they go.

Then, when they inevitably want to take a local's photograph, they can share the dog, take the photo, and print a copy for them on the spot.

I liked the idea the moment I heard about it, and I am planning to try it for myself in Rwanda later this month.

Steven (@travelojos) was the next to arrive. He's currently planning a trip to Guatemala.

Diana from The Adventures of D rolled up soon after. She recently quit her PR job to travel through Europe and northern Africa....starting today!

Chelsey (@chelseydc), a relatively recent transplant from Iowa, joined us, as did my friend Todd.

And then I lost track of the order, as usual. I swear it wasn't the hearty porter I was drinking.

Molly (@travelwithcurls), one of our regulars, congratulated me on the launch of Travel Blog Success last month and confirmed her intent to sign up soon.

Sonia (@pulpologist) and her husband Mark arrived as well, though Marilyn from National Geographic couldn't make it (so the saga of their inability to meet in person goes on)

Lauren had previously contacted me through Medellin Living as she was interested in moving to Colombia to teach English in the city of the eternal Spring.

On a random note, our waiter was cool, gave Diana a free beer at the end of the night, and mentioned he'd done a Peace Corps stint in Malawi.

There were a few people I didn't get the chance to meet, and a few whose company were missed altogether.

Thankfully, warmer weather and longer days are just around the corner, as is April's DC Travel Happy Hour!

_______

Special thanks to Melanie at Sisarina for the Twitter name tags, and Kelsey for photographing the event. All of the photos in this post are hers, except the exterior shot of the bar, which I took.

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