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Friday Flashback: Nile Cruise & Temple Tourism

Edfu Temple
Edfu Temple

Once I arrived in Luxor and joined the organized tour, I was insulated from most of the shenanigans and tourist shams (though one might argue I paid into the biggest of them all -- a prepackaged Nile cruise).

I ended up having a great time on the cruise.  My room was very nice, there was plenty of food, I hung out with some friendly Americans and Koreans, and didn't have to worry about how to get from point A to B.

The temples were often overwhelming in their grandeur and scale, while the passing Nile Valley offered wonderful scenery in between.

Soccer Around the World

2007 marked the height of my soccer fever.  At home, I went to the most DC United games that year, and I fully intended to experience the excitement during my trip around the world.

I caught 3 matches on 3 different continents, and they were all exciting.

In homage to the kickoff of the 2010 Word Cup tomorrow morning, I present my favorite soccer photos from around the world!

When you sit in the Barra Brava fanclub section, expect difficulty seeing the game, smoke bombs, and beer thrown in the air after a DC goal.
When you sit in the Barra Brava fanclub section, expect difficulty seeing the game, smoke bombs, and beer thrown in the air after a DC goal.
Sydney FC vs. Melbourne Victory at Telstra Stadium in Sydney.
Sydney FC vs. Melbourne Victory at Telstra Stadium in Sydney.
The players from FC Barcelona and Atletico Madrid shake hands before the match at Camp Nou, in Barcelona.
The players from FC Barcelona and Atletico Madrid shake hands before the match at Camp Nou, in Barcelona.
An FC Barcelona throw in. My seat was in the first row behind the VIP section and players' benches.
An FC Barcelona throw in. My seat was in the first row behind the VIP section and players' benches.
Lionel Messi (Argentina), one of the world's greatest players, prepares to enter the Atletico Madrid match in the second half.
Lionel Messi (Argentina), one of the world's greatest players, prepares to enter the Atletico Madrid match in the second half.
Colombian police on horseback help maintain order outside Medellin's soccer stadium.
Colombian police on horseback help maintain order outside Medellin's soccer stadium.

The fans of Atletico Nacional, one of Medellin's two professional teams, unfurl a massive banner before the game starts.
The fans of Atletico Nacional, one of Medellin's two professional teams, unfurl a massive banner before the game starts.

First aid workers are clearly visible at Colombian soccer matches.
First aid workers are clearly visible at Colombian soccer matches.

Mountains former a picturesque backdrop to Medellin's soccer stadium, which played host to a 2010 World Cup Qualifier (Colombia vs. Peru).
Mountains former a picturesque backdrop to Medellin's soccer stadium, which played host to a 2010 World Cup Qualifier (Colombia vs. Peru).

My Mind is On A Plane to Cartagena

Relaxing at a friend's finca (country house) in Colombia.
Relaxing at a friend's finca (country house) in Colombia.

I feel a funny sense of deja vu.

In a few weeks, I'll depart Virginia for New York City, just as I did almost two and a half years ago.

And yet again, I won't be coming back before spending extended time overseas. There are a few notable differences this time.

I'll be riding in style on the wi-fi enabled Megabus, versus the old Chinatown service.

To fulfill my technology fetish requirements, I'll be toting a 16-inch HP laptop for blogging, Blackberry Curve for tweeting, Cannon S90, and a Flip HD video camera.

Instead of going out for a low-key dinner with my best friend the night before departure, I'll be networking (ie. partying) my ass off with 300+ travel bloggers and PR reps at the Travel Blog Exchange conference.

And most notably, I not only hope my travel blog(s) will help support me financially, they ARE my financial support.

My business. My livelihood. Talk about pressure.

Maybe that's why, with three weeks still to go before I board a flight to Cartagena, I feel as though my mind has already checked itself out of my body, buckled itself into a seat, and begun to enjoy the passing view of the east coast 30,000 feet below.

Full of anticipation for adventures that lie ahead, it can almost taste the sugary sweetness of a properly mixed caipirinha. 

Feel the cooling effects of a Caribbean breeze blowing off the water. 

Appreciate the ever-present sounds of salsa, merengue, cumbia, reggaeton, and the accordion-heavy vallenato.

And with a big smile, remember the way it feels to once again be on the road.

GoLite's Tumalo Pertex Storm Jacket

Tumalo Pertex® 2.5-Layer Storm Jacket
Tumalo Pertex® 2.5-Layer Storm Jacket

A waterproof jacket is essential backpacker gear, yet it need not weigh you down.

GoLite's Tumalo Storm Jacket is seriously light at 9 ounces (245 grams). 

It includes two waterproof, zippered pockets in the front, a  fixed hood (which I prefer), and two zippers under the armpits which can be opened for ventilation.

The GoLite Storm Jacket kept my upper body dry in a terrential downpour.
The GoLite Storm Jacket kept my upper body dry in a torrential downpour.

But as nice as the jacket looks, the real test is in how dry it can keep you. 

So a few days ago, after hearing the crackle of thunder, I put on the jacket and stepped outside into a torrential downpour. 

Within 60 seconds, my shorts and shoes were soaked. 

The rain was coming down so hard, and the jacket is so thin, that I could feel the pressure of individual rain drops pelting my shoulders.

After a few minutes in the rain, I walked back inside and snapped some photos. 

Below, you can clearly see how well the jacket repels water by the way it is beading on the surface. 

Underneath, my t-shirt was perfectly dry.

Water beading on the jacket's surface.
Water beading on the jacket's surface.

The exterior of the jacket is 100% nylon, while the interior lining is a technology called Pertex Shield DS.

According to GoLite:

Pertex® Shield DS--Pertex® Shield DS combines a technically advanced face fabric with a proprietary bi-component polyurethane coating technology specifically engineered for unlined garments.

This durable and extremely lightweight fabric has exceptional stretch and provides the optimum balance of waterproofness and breathability.

The "dry touch" hydrophilic PU coating reduces internal garment condensation and eliminates the sticky, clammy feel of other coatings.

That's a bit too much tech-talk for me, however one thing I can say for sure is the jacket is as effective at repelling water as any of the past North Face jackets I've owned over the years.

Detail of the cord closures for the hood.
Detail of cord closures for the hood.

There is one feature of the jacket which I'd like to see improved. 

The cord closures for tightening the hood rely on a small piece of foam to keep the cord cinched. 

While I was standing in the heavy rain, I found myself fiddling around with them trying to get the hood tightened. 

I'd rather they sacrifice a few grams of weight and use a plastic widget, versus the foam which I found hard to get a handle on in the rain.

Otherwise, I liked everything about GoLite's Tumalo Storm Jacket - the fit, weight, and effectiveness. 

I'll be depending on it to keep me dry through Colombia's next rainy season.

GoLite gear is available at a variety of outdoor retailers, online and off, including REI.

  • Retails: $150
  • Available sizes:  S-XXL
  • Colors:  Ocean Blue, Rust, Chili Pepper, and Black.
  • GoLite Guarantee:  They will replace any gear with a manufacturing defect for the lifetime of the product, for free.

_____

Disclaimer:  I received a complimentary jacket to test and review on Go Backpacking.

Movie Review: A Map For Saturday

In 2005, Brook Silva-Braga quit his job at HBO in New York City to go backpacking around the world. 

Only Brook wasn't your typical backpacker. 

He had a background in video production and planned to create a documentary about long term travel based on his year-long experience.

I had a sneaking suspicion that watching A Map for Saturday after my own 'round the world trip would be pointless, and sure enough, there were few surprises. 

On the other hand, Brook did a great job of capturing often-overlooked downsides to long term travel, such as burnout and the concept of five-hour (or disposable) friends.

I recognized scenes and cities from many of the countries he visited, including Australia, Thailand, Nepal, India, and a variety of western European countries. 

I even stayed in the same Original Backpackers hostel in Sydney (2008) that's shown early on in the film. 

In that regard, it was like taking a stroll down memory lane.

Brook's adventures did happen to coincide with several noteworthy news stories, which made the documentary more interesting. 

He arrived on beautiful Koh Phi Phi in Thailand a few months after the tsunami, thus capturing the scenes of backpackers helping to clear debris. 

And he was in Nepal at a time when there was greater concern about travelers' safety due to the Maoist resistance.

Rent this movie on Amazon Video if you want:

  • A well-edited, honest, inside look at the modern backpacker lifestyle.
  • A way to kill time keep yourself inspired until you can take your own trip.
  • To reflect on travel experiences you've taken in the past.

Reliving Swingers at The Dresden

If during the course of my travels, I have the chance to visit locations used in movies and TV shows, I'll always do my best to take them. 

Actually, I'll even go out of my way to take them.  It makes for a novel experience, and sometimes that's all it takes.

Maya Bay (The Beach) and James Bond Island (Man With The Golden Gun) in Thailand. Schilthorn (On Her Majesty's Secret Service). Ta Prohm in Cambodia (Tomb Raider).

And on my recent trip to Los Angeles, I was excited to add The Dresden, which lays claim to the infamous Swingers scene above where Vince Vaughn gives Jon Favreau the "you're so money" pep talk.

Dresden
Dresden Restaurant

On my last night in town, after meeting some of Stephanie's friends at a tweetup in the Los Angeles Farmer's Market (where, incidentally, we spotted Fred Savage and his family looking for a late lunch), we headed over to The Dresden.

We entered through the front door and were immediately within the dark lounge where the scene had been shot. 

It was empty, but I was already visualizing Marty and Elaine singing "Staying Alive" and the guys from the movie sitting down in their regular booth. 

I picked it out correctly from amongst them all along the wall, but before I had the chance to suggest we move over there, a group of girls snagged it.

Dave and Summer
Reuniting with Summer, a former coworker

Joining us were Joel from Freedonia Post and Melanie and her husband from Travels With Two. 

One of my former coworkers, Summer, who had made her way across the country while I was busy traveling, also stopped by. 

She was loving California living, and after a few sunny days in the area, I was starting to see the appeal as well.

Later, several of Steph's friends from the tweetup also joined us, and the whole lounge, which looked straight out of the '70s, filled up.

Around 9 pm, Marty and Elaine started to play the piano and sing. While they sound just as kitschy in person now, as they did in Swingers 15 years ago, they are serious musicians. 

In other words, if you go to The Dresden, enjoy their music, but refrain from breaking out in uncontrolled laughter. 

They took a break after their first set, and during the second, Marty gave up the mic to a few guest crooners.

At the end of the night, when I asked for the tab, after multiple Grey Goose and tonics, I was surprised to find they were cheap!  About $6 a piece. 

No wonder, after all these years, The Dresden still packs a good crowd in on a Saturday night.

________

The Dresden Restaurant - 1760 North Vermont Ave, Hollywood, CA

New and Improved: DareMe! eBook

Dare Me! eBookLast Fall, I released a compilation of the 17 crazy dares I received while traveling around the world from 2007-2009.

It started out with an easy one, picking my nose in public, and then quickly ramped up to Andrew Zimmern-style culinary adventures and cage diving with Great White sharks!

I recently enlisted the help of Aly and John (Hop & Jaunt) to give the eBook a makeover.  They did an amazing job, and I'm excited to share the new and improved version with everyone today!

Sign up for Go Backpacking's twice-monthly newsletter and you can download the eBook for free, plus you'll receive links to the best content published here.

If you are already on the mailing list, the June 10th newsletter will include the download link so you can see the updated version too.

Friday Flashback: Cairo, Camels & the Great Pyramids

The Great Pyramids
The Great Pyramids

In 2001, I had plans to visit Egypt however 9/11 disrupted them and I'd had it on the back burner ever since.

In December 2008, I flew Egypt Air from Jo'burg to Cairo.  It was my first visit to a Middle Eastern country, and I was immediately struck by the dreariness of the Nile River as it runs through polluted Cairo.  But I found a room, smoked some sheesha, and walked like an Egyptian in front of the Great Pyramids.

As Paul Theroux said, "travel is only glamorous in retrospect."

Food Wars: Fatburger v. 5 Guys

Fatburger
Fatburger

Seeing as how I started my LA trip with the trendy sushi of Katsuya and a shared bottle of champagne at dinner in Malibu, it was only a matter of time before my wallet begged for a better balance.

Cue Fatburger, a California institution with a fast-food culture all its own.

Medium Fatburger meal
Medium Fatburger meal

I ordered a medium cheeseburger meal which came with fries and a soda. 

The burger was certainly better than your typical McDonald's Quarter Pounder, but the fries were average. 

The atmosphere inside the little location we stopped at was quaint. I can't remember the last time I saw a jukebox in a fast-food restaurant.

But I couldn't help but compare my meal to that of the one I had at Five Guys before my DC to LA flight. 

I'd had their wonderful, thick-cut fries before, however, it was the first time I'd ordered a burger. 

It was just as good as Fatburger, which means in a head-to-head competition, Five Guys wins on the merit of its fries.

Fatburger's social media efforts.
Fatburger's social media efforts.

And then something has to be said about Fatburger's totally un-PC approach toward marketing.

A sign next to the menu was a call to action - they need BFFs (Big Fat Friends). 

Fatburger can say they got their start in the 1950s all they want, but the reality of today is that the United States faces an epidemic of obesity, and their messaging rubbed me the wrong way.

What do you think -- savvy marketing or sending the wrong message?

Currency, a Literary Thriller by Zoe Zolbrod

I like to think that there are degrees of travel.

The first is the vacationing kind: one takes a trip to a beautiful place to relax and unwind and enjoy the foreign scenery, then as soon as one becomes comfortable in their new surroundings, one jet-sets right on back to "reality" at home. 

Next is the adventure-seeking variety: one delves somewhat deeper into their international location, most often on an environmental level as they explore the local thrill-seeking tourist or non-tourist activities. 

Third, I believe, is nomadic: one travels by foot or public transportation across a country or continent, stopping briefly into big cities and small towns and experiencing a glimpse of local culture and people.

Backpackers, I believe, usually lie in this one.

And fourth is the expat: An expat has the opportunity to truly familiarize themselves with a faraway place that will one day become home.

They get to know the geography, customs, and form relationships with both the native people and the passers-by.

One of the main characters in Currency, is Robin, a relatable traveler that falls somewhere in between the third and the fourth degree.

She is a young American twenty-something that had gone to and graduated from college, held a few odd jobs, and then decided to venture across Eurasia in pursuit of her dreams.

While in Thailand, she meets Piv, the other main character.

Piv is an English-speaking Thai, equally as motivated and driven as she, that has carved himself somewhat of a touristy career in Bangkok, and before long, the two fall in love.

But what begins as a romantic story of a cross-cultural couple, quickly evolves into a chilling adventure of trafficking, desperation, and trust.

Tangled within a web of international crime, both Robin and Piv struggle for monetary, romantic, and vital survival. And consequences ensue.

Currency is neither a travel memoir nor travel guide, but a literary thriller with enough the seductive power to transport you to a whole new world.

As author Laura van den Berg said of the novel, "From the first page to the last, Zoe Zolbrod's Currency had me hooked.

I loved the boldness of voice, the visceral and intoxicating landscape, the gripping and masterfully woven story.

Currency is a thrilling and unforgettable debut, and Zolbrod is a brilliant new voice that is sure to be with us for many years to come."

No matter where you may be or where you may be going, I highly recommend picking up this recently-released must-read.

I've never experienced anything quite like it.

Photo Essay: Delhi Architecture

The Jama Masjid of Delhi is India's largest mosque.
The Jama Masjid of Delhi is India's largest mosque.

Delhi's architecture is a terrific reflection of India's diversity.

In two days, I crisscrossed the city with a hired driver to ensure I could catch a glimpse of as many of the sights as possible. 

The good news is you can see most of them that quickly, though I'd recommend spending more than a few days to enjoy it more fully.

A view toward the main gate of Jama Masjid from atop a minaret, with Delhi's Red Fort in the distance.
A view toward the main gate of Jama Masjid from atop a minaret, with Delhi's Red Fort in the distance.
The Lahori Gate is one of the two main entrances to Delhi's Red Fort.
The Lahori Gate is one of the two main entrances to Delhi's Red Fort.
A Sikh temple
A Sikh temple
The India Gate in Delhi is one of India's largest war memorials.
The India Gate in Delhi is one of India's largest war memorials.
The entrance to Raj Ghat, a memorial to mark the site of Mahatma Gandhi's cremation in 1948.
The entrance to Raj Ghat, a memorial to mark the site of Mahatma Gandhi's cremation in 1948.
The Bahá'í House of Worship in Delhi is known as the Lotus Temple due to its shape. It is open to people of all faiths.
The Bahá'í House of Worship in Delhi is known as the Lotus Temple due to its shape. It is open to people of all faiths.
Humayun's Tomb
Humayun's Tomb in Delhi is the architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal.
Humayun's Tomb in Delhi is the architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal.
Humayun's Tomb

 

The Griffith Observatory: Los Angeles Landmark

Griffith Observatory
Griffith Observatory

Rebel Without A Cause was required viewing for a college class I took called Music, Marketing, and Youth Culture.

When I tweeted about my trip to Los Angeles and asked for recommendations, Griffith Observatory was mentioned several times. 

I remembered it as a setting from the James Dean movie, which was reason enough for a visit.

Tribute to James Dean with Hollywood sign in distance
Tribute to James Dean with Hollywood sign in the distance

The clear blue skies and sunshine made for great views. 

Inside the observatory, there were plenty of astronomy displays to educate those interested. 

The giant telescope is free to use; however, it doesn't open until sunset. 

You can walk up on the roof, too, but it didn't occur to me at the time.

Related: The McDonald Observatory in Texas

View toward downtown Los Angeles
View toward downtown Los Angeles

The views of downtown LA are good, but the skyline certainly doesn't compare to New York City. 

As we walked around the observatory, a couple took their wedding photos. 

There are a lot of hiking trails in the area, and I imagine it would make for a fun afternoon to use them and then finish up at the observatory for sunset. 

Stargazing through the telescope is optional.

Travel Blog Success: C'est Christine

C'est Christine

Four months ago, on February 1, I launched a unique online course and community called Travel Blog Success.

My goal was to provide the resources necessary for travelers and expats to build high-quality blogs for their adventures.

In some cases, I believed those blogs might even start to pay for their adventures, as they had for mine.

Christine was one of the first to join, and I recently caught up with her to learn more about her experience.

***

Travel Blog Success: How did you hear about Travel Blog Success?

Christine Amorose: I believe that it was a combination of Dave's Twitter updates and a review on the Twenty-Something Travel site.

TBS: Why did you join (ie. what did you hope to get out of the course and community)?

Christine: I had already decided to quit my job and move to France, and I knew that I wanted to blog.

When TBS launched, it just seemed like such serendipitous timing! I hoped to learn how to make a more professional blog, one that could eventually become a money-maker.

TBS: What was your experience level with blogging before joining TBS?

Christine: I did the typical "this is what I did today" name.wordpress.com blog when I was backpacking through Europe for five weeks last summer.

It was basically a quicker, easier way to update my family and friends as to what I was doing each day instead of sending individual emails or Facebook messages.

However, I was familiar with WordPress.org through my job in high-tech social media.

My background in journalism and social media had exposed me to a lot of different types of blogs, and I was reading travel blogs regularly.

TBS: How soon before leaving for Nice did you start going through the course? Was this enough time to go through the material and put it into practice?

Christine: I went through the course a few months before leaving for Nice, so I had plenty of time to go through all the materials.

I bought the whole course at once, so I took my time and read what interested me.

TBS: Which elements (course, blog, forum, audio interviews, social media group) of the community did you find most useful?  Why?

Christine: I found the forums most useful. Even though I wasn't able to apply all of the advice, having people take the time to review and critique my site was amazing.

All your friends and family will say it looks great, but having people look at the site who didn't know me or anything about the blog was really valuable.

The outside point of view showed me what first-time users to my site were seeing, which is hard to come by when you're staring at the site for hours every day.

TBS: What was the best piece of blogging advice you read or received through TBS?

Christine: While I haven't put it into practice yet, the SEO and monetization advice convinced me to buy TBS.

I have a journalism degree, as well as experience in social media and web design, so the writing and design tips were just good reminders of things I already knew.

However, I'm clueless when it comes to creating ad space and improving SEO. While I haven't monetized my site yet--I'm focusing on building readership for the next few months--it's great to have all that information handy and to know what to look for.

TBS: Would you recommend TBS to friends?

Christine: Absolutely! I think it's especially helpful if you haven't had any experience with blogging before since it has a lot of helpful, basic information.

However, the forums are really the most valuable part for me. It's great to have a community of people who are passionate about travel and blogging available for questions, critiques or support.

TBS: Do you have any additional comments or feedback?

Christine: Nope! Money well spent :)

***

You can read about Christine's exciting life on the French Riviera at C'est Christine.

Friday Flashback: Johannesburg & Soweto

The story of Soweto's people is painted on one of the two iconic cooling towers.
The story of Soweto's people is painted on one of the two iconic cooling towers.

When visiting South Africa, it can be tempting to pass on Johannesburg altogether (aka Jo'burg, or Jozi amongst the locals).  It has a reputation of being very dangerous, and lacks the natural beauty of Cape Town.  Still, I found there was more than enough to do to keep me busy for a few days.

Most hostels are in the suburbs, as with any big city, there are legitimate reasons to be concerned about safety. I chose to hire a guide through my hostel, and went on two separate trips around the city with him.  On the second one, his young son even joined us for lunch and a trip atop Africa's tallest building.

Go Backpacking Has A New Editor

Danielle in Istanbul
Danielle in Istanbul

Last Fall, I opened the doors at Go Backpacking to guest posts for the first time, and was truly surprised by the high degree of interest from fellow travelers.

One of the first people to respond was Danielle Alvarez, a then senior studying magazine journalism at Syracuse University.

Danielle has been a regular contributor here for the last 7 months, writing book and restaurant reviews, and sharing her experiences from a year abroad in Chile, Ecuador, and France.  Hopefully you've been enjoying her stories as much as I have.

In my ongoing effort to build Go Backpacking into one of the web's top online travel blogs, I offered Danielle the opportunity to assist in an editorial capacity.  I'm excited to share that she has accepted these new responsibilities.

In addition to writing about her favorite topics, travel and food, she will now be assisting with other content such as sponsored reviews, and more importantly, taking an active role in soliciting, editing, and scheduling guest contributions, as well as helping with promotional efforts (ie. social media).

She also maintains her own blog at Danielle Abroad, and can be found on Twitter @danielleabroad.

Please join me in welcoming Danielle in her new role as Editor!

Food Wars: Sprinkles v. Famous Cupcakes

A colorful display at Famous Cupcakes.
A colorful display at Famous Cupcakes.

While I was traveling around the world, a cupcake revolution was occurring in the United States. 

I didn't become aware of the new sugary movement until I returned home last Summer. 

By then, the Washington, DC area already boasted something crazy like 30 different shops dedicated to...cupcakes. Seriously.

Don't get me wrong. I love pastry and chocolate shops. 

They played a big part in why I visited Belgium, Switzerland, and France. But I grew up eating cupcakes. They were the norm. 

Mom would buy a box of six at the supermarket for a few bucks. Simple.

When I returned home, and the DC foodies on Twitter were all abuzz about their favorite local cupcakeries, well, I had to investigate first hand. 

Before the Rwanda trip, I went to Cupcakes Actually near my local REI store in Fairfax, VA. 

I picked out two, including Actually Dipped Peanut Butter, which was described as "ultra moist devil's food cupcake topped with our creamy peanut butter icing then dipped in our decadent chocolate fudge."

One bite, and I knew these weren't the same mass-produced cupcakes I grew up with.

Chocolate coconut cupcake
Chocolate coconut cupcake

So when Stephanie (@AdventureGirl) was showing me around Beverly Hills last month and mentioned Kim Kardashian had a cupcake shop, I felt the need to compare the west coast offerings with the ones I'd had back home.

On a sunny Friday morning, just before heading to lunch, we stopped in Famous Cupcakes so I could sample the offerings. 

It was the most spacious interior I've seen yet for a cupcake shop. 

There was plenty of room for people to sit down and enjoy their cupcakes, though it was empty at the time. 

Given it wasn't even noon on a weekday, I can't hold that against them.

I opted for the Chocolate Coconut, missing the fact that there was whipped cream inside the cake portion, in addition to the frosting on the top. 

It was rich but a bit too much sugar for me. 

I realized then that I prefer a solid cake foundation in my cupcakes.  I washed it down with a cold cup of milk.

Total cost?  About $5 -- entirely reasonable for a snack in Beverly Hills.

Sprinkles cupcakes: a few chocolate variations with red velvet in the middle.
Sprinkles cupcakes: a few chocolate variations with red velvet in the middle.

After lunch, Steph wanted to introduce me to the Beverly Hills cupcake institution known as Sprinkles. 

By now, it's probably a little after 2 pm. There was a 10-minute line extending outside the shop. 

Unlike Famous, this spot was tiny, with just a few stools inside for a few customers to sit down and consume their cupcakes on the premises.

I was still very full from my pre-lunch cupcake and lunch itself, but I felt the call of duty. 

We each had a chocolate cupcake and split the Red Velvet (my first). 

I liked them better than the Famous Cupcake, but it was like comparing apples to oranges. 

If I'm going to compare cupcake shops fairly, I"ll need to establish a common denominator, such as Red Velvet which seems to be an option at every shop.

After finishing my chocolate Sprinkles cupcake, I started to feel incredibly full. I felt ill. 

Did I mention I had a slice of cake after lunch too? 

Yea, I'd reached my limit, but I managed a forkful of the Red Velvet before tapping out altogether.

I took a nap before dinner.

Mini cupcakes for your dog.
Mini cupcakes for your dog

Photo Essay: The Temples of Angkor

Visiting Angkor, a few kilometers outside Siem Reap is a highlight for most visitors to Cambodia and Southeast Asia.

The complex covers a vast area, however, there are three main temples everyone visits: Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm.

Heading to Angkor Wat? Book a top-rated hostel here

Cambodian children try their best to sell visitors their trinkets.
Cambodian children try their best to sell visitors their trinkets.

The many faces of Bayon temple.
The many faces of Bayon temple.

The mysterious Bayon smile.
The mysterious Bayon smile.

Renting a bicycle to visit the temples is a popular option for visitors.
Renting a bicycle to visit the temples is a popular option for visitors.

Amongst the ruins of Ta Prohm, where scenes from the movie Tomb Raider were filmed.
Amongst the ruins of Ta Prohm, where scenes from the movie Tomb Raider were filmed.

The growth of a large tree slowly takes its toll on the stone walls at Ta Prohm.
The growth of a large tree slowly takes its toll on the stone walls at Ta Prohm.

A pair of visitors take a break from exploring.
A pair of visitors take a break from exploring.

Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat

GoLite's Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody

The Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody by GoLite
The Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody by GoLite

Wherever I go backpacking, I take a hoody (hooded sweatshirt) with me. 

They're perfect for layering, whether you're hiking in the mountains or curled up on planes and buses whose air-conditioning is turned up too high. 

On my trip around the world, I went through 3 cotton hoodies. The downside to all of them was the material -- cotton, which weighs heavy and dries slowly.

When I was recently offered the chance to test and review the Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody by GoLite, the first thing I did was check out the company website. 

As the name implies, GoLite is dedicated to creating lightweight, high-performance apparel and products.

Their motto and contemporary values (Innovate, Sustain, Inspire) resonate with my own, as though they tore a page right out of my personal playbook:

Therefore I GoLite. This is our motto. This is what drives us. Less is more. Less is liberation. Less is our passion. But we didn't invent this philosophy. You did.

You want to get away from all the stuff, the blaring music, the gadgets, the never-ending load of work and the glut of more, more, more. So you go light. You head out on the trail, because you want to experience nature on its own terms.

You value adventure over advertising. Memories over souvenirs. You don't want to clog the planet with more stuff. You just want to have pure, simple, heart-pounding fun.

But let's get back to the hoody because it wasn't quite what I expected. 

Viewing it on their website, I thought it looked like a normal sweatshirt and didn't think much of it.

When it arrived in the mail, however, I was pleasantly surprised by its lightweight (15 ounces/426 grams), and appearance. 

It's made of 100% polyester, and the interior features a Mineraleâ„¢ lined hood.

GoLite describes Minerale as:

Our latest next-to skin fabric innovation utilizes Cocona Mineralea, which has a superior hand that's matched only by its impressive quick-dry capabilities. The natural technology uses microporous particles derived from minerals that improve fabric comfort and performance. It is permanently embedded in the fibers, so it will not wash off or wear out.

I'll admit I haven't gone for a walk in the rain it, but I can vouch for its comfort. 

I wore it on my trip to Los Angeles last month, including on both flights, and during the day I hung out with the rich and famous in Beverly Hills.

Hanging out with James Dean at the Griffith Observatory - Los Angeles, CA
Hanging out with James Dean at the Griffith Observatory - Los Angeles, CA

The hoody is wind resistant, and in addition to the two normal external pockets, there are also two small interior pockets at the bottom of the front side, on either side of the zipper.

These are perfect for carrying a key if you're jogging, passport, extra cash, etc.

It's not as thick, and therefore warm, as the cotton sweatshirts I've used in the past, however, it packs smaller, weighs half as much, and will dry a lot faster.

I'm looking forward to taking GoLite's Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody to Colombia. 

It'll be perfect for breezy nights on the Caribbean coast, and the regular Spring-like weather of Medellin.

Retails: $125

Available sizes:  S-XXL

Colors:  shale blue, dark walnut, moss green, stone, and black.

_____

Disclaimer:  I received a complimentary hoody to test and review on Go Backpacking.

Lunch in Beverly Hills (with The Governator)

Rodeo Drive
Rodeo Drive

On the third day of my Los Angeles trip, Steph and I descended on Beverly Hills. 

She had warned me in advance that Rodeo Drive was only a few blocks long, and sure enough, it all seemed less grandiose in person than what I'd conjured up in my mind over a lifetime of watching it depicted on TV and in the movies.

Posing on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills
Posing on Rodeo Drive

We parked the car and walked along the palm-lined streets; however, there's little to do if you're not there to go shopping. 

And in terms of shopping, the streets were lined with luxury brand boutiques.

One funny moment occurred when one of LA's garish, red double-decker tourist bus came roaring down the street, interrupting the otherwise peaceful, low-key neighborhood.

The Grill on the Alley
The Grill on the Alley

We ate lunch at the Grill on the Alley, which is known as the entertainment industry's restaurant of choice for power lunches. 

The entrance faces into an alley, albeit a clean one as we are in Beverly Hills, after all. We got there early; however, there were no stars to be seen. 

In an attempt to make up for my early-in-the-trip indulgences, I ordered a $20 Caesar salad with chicken. The portion size was obscene (i.e. gigantic), and I only managed to finish half of it.

As we went to exit the restaurant, in walks Bill Rancic, the first winner of The Apprentice. 

I recognized him immediately but wasn't starstruck enough to stop him from using the restroom. 

Besides, as in New York City, you're not supposed to care when you see a celebrity walking around.

Barney Greengrass mosaic
Barney Greengrass mosaic

To give ourselves another shot at spotting a significant celebrity, we walked through Barney's New York and made our way to the rooftop restaurant, Barney Greengrass.

Upon walking up to the host's desk, I looked to my left and immediately noticed The Governator, Arnold Schwarzenegger, sitting at a corner table, facing out over the entire restaurant. He had a dark tan and a commanding presence. 

View from Barney Greengrass
View from Barney Greengrass

We decided to wait for a table on the outdoor terrace, so Steph used the free time to introduce one of the Governor's security guards to Foursquare. 

Meanwhile, I continued to casually peer at him from across the room.

When our table was ready outside, we got a sweet corner spot in the shade, which allowed me to stargaze a little longer through the window. 

Strawberry banana creme chocolate cake
Strawberry banana creme chocolate cake

I ordered a glass of white wine, which seemed apropos for the environment, and a giant slice of "strawberry banana cream chocolate cake" that didn't quite live up to my expectations.

As with Grill on the Alley, I was surprised by the reasonable prices at the restaurant, given the location and stargazing potential. 

The fish options are a popular main course, and they only ran about $20. My slice of cake was $7.50.

Another Paese

 

Paese Wine
Paese Wine

Local cuisine is a perk for any traveler. Whether it was Ceviche in Ecuador, Dolma in Turkey, or Pizza in Italy, pure authenticity made each of my meal experiences that much more enjoyable, and, of course, delicious. When traveling more locally, however, these kinds of dishes are harder to come by.

North of Mexico, most areas have created their own foodie specialties from a medley of European, African, South American, and/or Asian influences.

In the United States, it is sometimes done right, like in New England Clam Chowder or Cajun Shrimp Gumbo, and other times, very wrong, as in most Tex-Mex cooking (please excuse my bias, I just know true Mexican food too well). 

Thankfully, there is also a wealth of global and fusion cuisines across both the U.S. and Canada. I discovered a certain Ontarian gem, for example, on my last visit to Toronto.

Upon entering Paese, my friend and I were treated to two exquisite glasses of wine. Although we did not know it at the time, each bottle had been chosen by their staff sommelier.

Before long, we were generously offered a taste of one of their not-yet-on-the-bar-menu appetizers, it was both familiar yet innovative, and then served a spectacular pizza.

I can say from experience that it is the lightest, and thus best, I've had outside of the Italian border.

And finally, as a thank you to our excellent hosts, my friend and I ordered a chocolate torta and were, once again, blown away by its delectability. (Read more about my serendipitous experience here.)

Of course, I must also comment on the atmosphere, which is as sophisticated and inviting as the food itself.

The main dining room and bar are modernly accented with whites and blacks. These monochromatic colors look especially beautiful against the natural wood tones of the floors and furniture.

Another interior aspect is the walls which are made up of gorgeous yet bare exposed brick that is playfully decorated with warm lights.

Paese Interiors
Paese Interiors

And finally, perhaps the most pleasant surprise of all is the Paese staff.

All were so genuinely good-intentioned and talented. During my visit, I was lucky enough to meet both the owner, Tony Loschiavo, and executive chef, Christopher Palik, along with various others, who were eager to share their creative origins, "Inspired by Italy, Made in Canada," and culinary values: whole, quality ingredients and fresh, sumptuous meals.

Paese executive chef
Paese executive chef

What is Toronto's specialty? I probably still could not tell you. What I can tell you, on the other hand, is this: if you are ever in the Toronto-area and looking for that special "kitchen away from home," Paese is most definitely, it. Enjoy.

Paese Ristorante
333 King Street West
Toronto, ON
416.599.6585

Friday Flashback: Elephants & Camping in Botswana

After two months of traveling in South Africa, from Cape Town to Kruger Park, I still wasn't ready to leave the region. South Africa is the most developed country on the continent, but it is not the best representation of it.

Ice cream truck in Maun.
Ice cream truck in Maun.

Before heading to Egypt, I booked a week-long Okavango Delta safari in Botswana. It required a lot of driving, but it was worth it once we glided through the Delta waters in our mokoros and went on game walks looking for wildlife.

Should I Gamble on Spirit Airlines?

Now that I've shared the big news that I'm heading back to Colombia at the end of June, it's time to book the airfare.

I looked around on individual carriers' sites, and again, found Kayak delivered reliable results.

For a 1-way ticket from New York City to Cartagena, it costs (tax included):

  • $235 on Spirit Airlines (if I want to depart at 6:40 am)
  • $267 on Spirit Airlines (if I want to depart in the evening, and spend a night in Fort Lauderdale airport)
  • $472 on Delta Airlines (if I want to leave at 8 am)

As you can see, the difference between Spirit Air and Delta is $200+.  The choice would seem obvious, even with the $30 international checked baggage fee I'd pay with Spirit Airlines, right?

But there's a twist.

There is a contract dispute happening right now with the Spirit Air pilots, and if it's not resolved by June 12, they're going on strike, which would leave me in limbo (camped out on my brother's couch, to be specific). The news clips indicate the airline hopes to resolve the dispute before June 12, but of course they'd say that so as not to affect ticket sales.

So this is where you, dear readers, enter the picture.

[poll id="56"]

Mokoro Rides in the Okavango Delta

Botswana's Okavango Delta is the world's largest inland delta. 

Traditional wooden canoes, called mokoros, are used as a means to travel from the mainland to the various islands within the Delta. 

They can hold 3-4 people apiece. And unless you want to go for a swim, it's best not to move around much while you're on the water.

During my 3-day camping trip in the Delta, I had the chance to play around with one. 

Pushing the mokoros by pole, and steering them through narrow, weed-free paths is not an easy task. 

Luckily, we had local guides to help, allowing us to sit back, relax, and enjoy the scenery.

Entering the Okavango Delta by mokoro (traditional canoe).
Entering the Okavango Delta by mokoro (traditional canoe).

To avoid prolonged exposure to the intense sun, some visitors use umbrellas.
To avoid prolonged exposure to the intense sun, some visitors use umbrellas.

Wooden mokoros "docked" near our campsite.
Wooden mokoros "docked" near our campsite.

Shuttling to another island in the pre-dawn light.
Shuttling to another island in the pre-dawn light.

Enjoying the quiet tranquility of the Delta.
Enjoying the quiet tranquility of the Delta.

Mokoros are pushed through the shallow water using long poles.
Mokoros are pushed through the shallow water using long poles.

Steering mokoros through thick weeds isn't always an easy affair.
Steering mokoros through thick weeds isn't always an easy affair.

Hoping to spot hippos from our mokoros as the sun sets over the Delta.
Hoping to spot hippos from our mokoros as the sun sets over the Delta.

The Home of Former President Habyarimana

Wreckage from the President's plane can be seen on the other side of the wall.
Wreckage from the President's plane can be seen on the other side of the wall.

On the morning of my last day in Rwanda, I visited the old home of former President Juvenal Hayarimana.  When his plane was shot down over the compound in 1994, killing him and the president of Burundi, it was the spark needed to usher in the genocide.

It was both eery and interesting to walk through a former president's home, especially one who had been assassinated so recently. Photos were not allowed.

While the walls were bare, there were still quite a few large pieces of furniture, including the master bedroom set.  When I walked into the master bathroom, it was spacious with a large jacuzzi tub in one corner, and a toilet on an elevated platform.  Because it was elevated, the toilet had the aire of a throne.  Naturally, I assumed it belonged to the president, however the guide said the space was actually for the first lady, and that the narrow, closet-sized space which adjoined it was for the President.  I'm not kidding, it was just wide enough to fit a toilet on one end and a standard shower/bath on the other, with a sink in the middle!

After touring the interior of the home, we walked out back through the gardens, which included an empty pool, and a tennis court.  I'd heard it was possible to see actual wreckage from the plane, and while again I could not take photos, I was able to see it in person from a small guard tower situated atop one of the compound's walls.

The tour cost no more than a few dollars, and I'd highly recommend it if you have a few hours to spare in Kigali.

The Road to Halabja Part VI - Should I Stay or Should I Go?

This is the next guest post in a series by Kevin Post. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

I went back to what I called the “compound” incredibly stressed about my situation: I couldn’t leave or stay in Iraq.

I was so incredibly hungry, but I wanted to prove to my gracious hosts that I was independent and low-maintenance.

Whenever they asked me if I needed anything, I said to them rather embarrassingly, as if I were hiding something dear to them, that I was fine. The last thing I wanted to do was be an inconvenience to my hosts.

I walked into the living room and watched Al-Jazeera with a group of engineers whom had disgusted looks on their faces because of the horrific incident that took place in Austria.

At first I didn’t understand the Arabic, but the images spoke clearer than words as the pictures explained that a father kept his daughter as a prisoner in the basement, raped, and raised six of her incest children.

I don’t need to go into detail because I believe that all of us remember where we were that day when we heard that disturbing story.

Within a few minutes the topic changed from disturbing news to politics because of the opportunity to speak with the American in the room.

We discussed Sunni-Shi’a tensions, Arab-Kurdish tensions, U.S.-Iraqi tensions, why the U.S. supports Zionism and so on.

This is the first time I have ever had a political discussion with Turks, Kurds, and Iraqi-Arabs all in the same room and it was rather passionate to say the least.

I learned more in that 30-minute conversation than I ever learned inside of a classroom back home. I should have written a thesis.

An Arab civil engineer who participated with the political discussions seemed impressed by my points of view and invited me to his home in Baghdad, which was so tempting that to this day I ask myself if I made the right decision by not going with him.

Traveling to Baghdad by invitation would have been significant but I painfully declined.

He traveled back and forth from Arbil to Baghdad only once a week, and I only had a 10-day visa.

Even if I extended the visa, Baghdad was extremely dangerous for me considering I didn’t have permission to be there, no one back home would have known I was there, and my travel insurance wouldn’t have covered me if something happened.

Out of all the reasons not to go, the primary reason for not venturing into a hot zone was my fear of encountering my country’s military; to be completely honest, it is what I feared the most.

I had recurring thoughts of interrogation and weeks being detained without the ability to communicate with my parents.

Besides all of the reasons above, what could I have done while in Baghdad?

Spend the entire week indoors because of the dangers presented outside?

The man who most interested me was Mahmed, not only because he owned the engineering firm, had interesting political viewpoints and spoke fluent Arabic, Kurdish, Turkish and English, but because he was incredibly kind to me and seemed to know exactly how I felt just by looking at me.

He asked me if I wasokay, as if he knew something was bothering me, so I decided to be honest with him.

I paraphrased everything that the Turkish employee had told me about Iraqi-Kurdistan and told him that I hadn’t eaten very well in several days.

Everyone in the room laughed enthusiastically. ” Why would you listen to a crazy old man like Faruk!?”

They said as the laughs grew in volume. "He’s paranoid! Why didn’t you tell us you haven’t eaten?”

In an instant I felt my stress evaporate. I still didn’t have a penny on me, but I knew that the universe was going to help me achieve what I came to achieve in this part of the world.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

Glimpses of Hollywood, Santa Monica, & Malibu

Sunset Boulevard
Sunset Boulevard

My first full day in Los Angeles began with a ride down Sunset Boulevard. 

I didn't have a burning desire to walk on the Hollywood Walk of Fame before getting to LA, but it was a beautiful day and as good a reason as any to get out of the car and enjoy it.

Stef and I exited an underground parking garage via an escalator, leading us right past an entrance to the Kodak Theatre, where the Academy Awards are held each year. 

Our first view upon walking out of the building was that of Jimmy Kimmel's studio.

Goofing around with Charlie Chaplin and Nacho Libre
Goofing around with Charlie Chaplin and Nacho Libre

Street performers were dressed up as a variety of famous movie and comic characters, and Stef insisted on a photo. I tipped Chaplin and Libre a buck each for their efforts. 

At the time, I resisted having my photo taken like an embarrassed kid with his parents, but now that I'm back on the East Coast, it serves as the perfect reminder of Hollyweird.

Tom Hanks
Tom Hanks on the Hollywood Walk of Fame

Under a bright warm sun, we walked around Grauman's Chinese Theater, looking at the various foot and handprints of the stars on the sidewalk.

My hand was a perfect match with Tom Hanks.

A half-block away was the historic Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, which we took a quick walk through before grabbing coffee in their small bar, 25 Degrees.

Hollywood Hills as seen from Mulholland Drive
Hollywood Hills as seen from Mulholland Drive

Back in the car, we cruised up to Mulholland Drive, which I'll always associate with the David Lynch movie by the same name, though I've never managed to watch the whole thing. 

A small parking area associated with a scenic outlook was packed with tour vans.

We walked up a few stairs, and then down along a dirt trail on the ridge. 

To the right, downtown LA, and the left, my first view of the Hollywood sign. 

That simple white sign on a green hill symbolized not only LA and California but the entire entertainment industry. 

I imagine the sign has served as inspiration for countless struggling actors, models, musicians, and comics who come to LA to make it big.

A lot of the places we visited in the Los Angeles area seemed smaller in person than I'd made them out to be in my mind after a lifetime of television and movie consumption. 

The Hollywood sign was the exception.

See also: Reliving Swingers at The Dresden

Santa Monica Pier
The colorful Santa Monica Pier

Despite the sunshine, when we drove down to Santa Monica in the afternoon, it was downright chilly due to the wind. 

The beaches were bare, save for a few runners. 

The amusement park rides on the Santa Monica pier were closed due to the weather, and any hot lifeguards must have been off duty as well.

Barcelona, Arcachon Bay in France, and now Santa Monica -- I've developed a real knack for visiting famous beaches when they're too cold to be fully appreciated.

After getting our fortunes told by Zoltan on the pier, we sought shelter in the luxurious Casa del Mar hotel lounge. 

Large windows allowed us to continue enjoying the beach views in comfort, and we were soon joined by Maja, who does PR for Swiss Tourism.

Taverna Tony in Malibu
Taverna Tony in Malibu

In the early evening, the three of us motored up the Pacific Coast Highway to meet up with Kristin Luna and Steph's husband for a Greek dinner at Taverna Tony in Malibu. 

We sat outside on a vine and flower-covered patio, but despite being situated near the entrance, no celebs were hanging out that night.

But that was fine because back in Hollywood, I'd experienced my first West Coast celebrity sighting -- the beautiful Jessica Biel.

Why I'm Moving Back to Medellin

Medellin, Colombia
Medellin, Colombia

In a clear sign the American economy is improving, my parents found a buyer for their house. 

It is a moment I've been contemplating since before I'd left for my trip around the world in late 2007.

What would I do if the option of living with them was suddenly off the table?

As much as they wanted to see me get another office job, I stubbornly stuck to a very narrow set of criteria (editorial work for travel websites, based in NYC or Washington, DC). 

After five and a half years of planning my great escape from the corporate world, and another 20 months of traveling and living abroad, the prospect of going back to cubicles, three weeks of vacation per year, office politics, and waking up before 9 am seems ludicrous.

If you're thinking "just grow up and get a job," I understand. 

I've been living an unconventional life for several years, and it'd be natural to suggest it's just a phase or needs to come to a tidy conclusion. 

But, this is where my stubbornness (or naivete) comes into play.

I believe I've reached the tipping point where I can support myself through a personal passion -- travel blogging. 

The only caveat is that I'm not yet able to do so while living in a major US city such as NYC or DC. 

And maybe that's a good thing, as it gives me the perfect opportunity to return to Colombia for the remainder of 2010.

The change in scenery will be bittersweet.

As much as I didn't want to leave Medellin behind last year, I've since settled into daily routines, developed a yoga practice, made new friends, caught up with old ones, and been able to go on dates without an English-Spanish dictionary. 

I will especially miss going out every weekend to my favorite club, The Salsa Room.

After the TBEX (travel blogger) conference from June 26-27 in New York City, I'll board a flight to Cartagena. 

For the first few weeks of July, I'll be soaking up the sun on the tropical beaches of Colombia's Caribbean coast. 

Then, I'll head back to the mountains of Medellin to further grow Go Backpacking, Medellin Living, and Travel Blog Success.

____________

Medellin Travel GuideMy 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

 

 

 

 

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Friday Flashback - Kruger Park Safari

Young male lions
Young male lions

After spending some time in the mountains, I finally made it to Johannesburg, where I promptly booked a tour to Kruger Park for early the next morning.

Once we got in the swing of going on game drives every day, I was having so much fun I extended my trip by an extra day for something silly like an extra $60.

DCTravel Happy Hour Meets GAP Adventures

Clockwise from bottom left: Carolyn, Bruce, Dave, Stephanie, and Sebastien
Clockwise from bottom left: Carolyn, Bruce, Dave, Stephanie, and Sebastien

May 10, 2010 marked the 6-month anniversary of the DCtravel happy hours which continue to bring together dozens of travelers, bloggers, tweeters, and curious Washington, DC-area residents.

This past Monday's event was held once again at The Big Hunt in Dupont Circle. 

We camped out on the rooftop deck, enjoying a few beers.  As usual, conversation revolved around travel, blogging, and social media.

I speak for everyone when I saw we were excited to have Bruce Poon Tip, founder of GAP Adventures, join us this time. 

As Carolyn later said, he was very generous with his time. 

And, I'd like to add very down to Earth and sincere, which is exactly the impression he gives us on Twitter every day.

Attendees

And once again a special thanks to Melanie @sisarina for the Twitter name tags we continue to enjoy.

Welcome to Hotel Rwanda

In 1994, during the 3-month campaign of genocide in Rwanda, tens of thousands of people sought refuge in churches and hotels around the country.  In the capital city of Kigali, up to a thousand of those people were at the Hotel Des Mille Collines.

The story of the hotel, and the manager at that time, Paul Rusesabagina, formed the basis for the popular movie "Hotel Rwanda" starring Don Cheadle.

Hotel Des Mille Collines (Hotel of a Thousand Hills)
Hotel Des Mille Collines (Hotel of a Thousand Hills)

The hotel lobby.
The hotel lobby.

Inside one of the guest rooms.
Inside one of the guest rooms.

The poolside dining area. Kristin Luna and William, our driver, are sitting to the left.
The poolside dining area. Kristin Luna and William, our driver, are sitting to the left.

Avocados are a popular starter (appetizer) in Rwanda.
Avocados are a popular starter (appetizer) in Rwanda.

Post-lunch tweeting on my BlackBerry Curve.
Post-lunch tweeting on my BlackBerry Curve.

The Rwandan Franc features images of the endangered mountain gorilla.
The Rwandan Franc features images of the endangered mountain gorilla.

The outdoor bar is a popular happy hour spot for tourists and expats in Kigali.
The outdoor bar is a popular happy hour spot for tourists and expats in Kigali.

Katsuya: Los Angeles Sushi To Remember

The infamous crispy rice with spicy tuna.
The infamous crispy rice with spicy tuna.

Before traveling to Los Angeles, I hit up Twitter for recommendations of what to see, do, and eat. 

I received a variety of responses, including several mentions of the crispy rice with spicy tuna. 

In particular, Abby Tegnelia (aka The Jungle Princess) was emphatic that this sushi dish was best enjoyed at Katsuya.

With a 6:20 pm arrival at LAX, I was in the perfect position to make the trendy sushi restaurant my first stop in town.

Creamy rock shrimp
Creamy rock shrimp

Stefanie (aka Adventure Girl) and I rolled up to the Brentwood location around 8 pm. 

While we waited a moment for the hostess to seat us, a Bentley pulled up to the valet. 

I couldn't help but notice there was already one Bentley parked at the curb.  Clearly, we weren't in Virginia anymore.

We were seated at a counter that wrapped around a cooking station in the middle of the restaurant. 

Normally, I wouldn't hesitate to take a photo of the interior, at least on the way out, however, the place was packed and I was suddenly feeling image-conscious. 

I could barely take photos of the food knowing the two women nearest to us smirked at one point. 

Luckily, Stef wasn't one to be embarrassed by my foodie flash photography.

The colorful rainbow roll.
The colorful rainbow roll.

We ordered a bottle of hot sake and crispy rice and spicy tuna, of course. 

The rice had been packed together and then fried until golden brown on the exterior. 

The cool minced tuna sat atop the warm crispy rice, topped with a slice of jalapeno. 

I'd never had sushi quite like it, though one sumptuous bite was enough for me to understand why it'd become so popular in southern California.

Next, Stef ordered the creamy rock shrimp. There's nothing not to like about shrimp doused in seasoned cream.

Our third dish was the rainbow roll, which included pieces of tuna, salmon, shrimp and some kind of white fish. 

Again, it was delicious.  Beyond being beautifully presented, it simply tasted a cut above similar rolls I've had before.

Salmon sashimi with caviar, served on a cucumber crisp.
Salmon sashimi with caviar, served on a cucumber crisp.

We continued to order each plate one by one, which allowed for ample time to catch up since our adventures in Rwanda the month before.

Already having gone over the sushi deep end, I went a step further and ordered the salmon sashimi with caviar.  

It was a challenge to pick up the cucumber slices along with the salmon, so it became a two-part process for each piece. 

And once you've gobbled up the good part, the cucumber slice seemed unnecessary.  But they did make for a nice presentation.

Hot chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream.
Hot chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream.

When it comes to the final course at Asian restaurants, I don't expect much, so it was a surprise to hear the waiter mention hot chocolate cake.

Of all the dishes, this is the one I'm glad we shared the most. 

The molten center makes this dessert a chocolate lover's dream.  You've been warned.

_____________

Katsuya has locations in Brentwood, Glendale, Hollywood, and downtown Los Angeles.  To save a few bucks, check out their happy hour specials.

The Road to Halabja Part V - Penniless in Iraq

This is the next guest post in a series by Kevin Post. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

I ran out of money and hadn’t eaten regularly the past few days, and when I did eat, it was very little in 24 hour intervals.

Due to the excitement of traveling to a very foreign destination, I didn’t feel hungry, but I did feel that my body lacked proteins, sugars, carbohydrates, and electrolytes, and it goes without saying that I didn’t have a lot of energy or relief from occasional headaches.

Sometimes when I get excited I completely forget about ‘what-ifs’. In Southeastern Turkey I was having such a phenomenal experience and spent very little money; therefore it didn’t occur to me that I should have withdrawn money before crossing the boarder into Iraq.

I was in the house alone with a Turkish engineer while I used the computer to send some e-mails to my friends back in Turkey. According to the Turkish engineer, it was too dangerous for me to leave the house so I spent the entire day in the house hungry and uneventfully wasting time on Couchsurfing and sending e-mails.

The following morning I was incredibly hungry and decided that Iraq wasn’t a safe place for me to be.

I gave the Turk my Colombian poncho as a gift though I’m not sure why, and excused myself to take a shower. I took my time in the shower because there is noting better than a nice cold shower in a hot, arid climate.

When I got out of the shower I was greeted by several of the Turk’s co-workers, all of whom were Kurds.

They seemed happy to meet me and excited to see an American visiting their homeland. A Kurd that I particularly got along with was Ahmed, who I later found out was the owner of the engineering firm.

I asked them if there was an ATM nearby, and they looked at me as if I were crazy for asking such a question.

Ahmed was nice enough to have his chauffeur take me to the nearest ATM.

None of the ATMs worked, but I enjoyed seeing the majority of the city with my own private driver. I was in Iraq with no money, at a very frightening time with full-on war just kilometers away.

I had to somehow get to the Turkish boarder without a single penny in my pocket.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

My Inaugural Flight on Virgin America

The dim purple and blue cabin lights are easy on the eyes.
The dim purple and blue cabin lights are easy on the eyes.

On the recommendation of my friend Stefanie, and as the result of a nice sale, I took my inaugural flight on Virgin America. 

For $280, taxes included, I flew round trip from Dulles, VA to Los Angeles, CA.

Purchasing the ticket and picking my seats online was a breeze. 

I signed up for e-mail and text alerts in case there were any delays, and even handled the check-in over the internet the morning of my flights. 

Being able to print out my boarding pass from home meant that I could save time (and one potential line) at the airport by heading straight to security.  It worked like a charm in both directions.

Animated safety presentation.
Animated safety presentation.

My last series of flights was on Ethiopian Airlines, and it was often disorganized when it came time to board the planes. 

There was no such problem with Virgin America -- I cannot recall a more orderly boarding process. 

As an aside, apparently Stevie Wonder walked off the plane I boarded in Dulles, but I missed him despite sitting very close to the walkway.

Upon boarding the plane, my eyes were treated to a cabin dimly lit with purple and blue lights. 

It was a refreshing change from the harsh fluorescent lights that are standard on most carriers. 

I took my window seat near the front left of the plane and started playing around with the touch screen display in front of me. 

It was much easier to use than the (typical) remote in the armrest.

As we taxied to the runway, a humorous animated video reminded us of the safety information.

The $9 tapas plate includes avocado hummus, chips, and an assortment of cheeses, fruits, and veggies.
The $9 tapas plate includes avocado hummus, chips, and an assortment of cheeses, fruits, and veggies.

It wasn't until I started flipping through the flight's service brochure that I remembered you don't get free food on domestic flights. 

If you can believe it, I hadn't flown a domestic route within the USA in about 5 years! 

I had become so accustomed to free meals on planes, it didn't occur to me that I should be bringing snacks on board the 5 ½ hour flight.

I used my hunger as an opportunity to try out the food ordering process, which involves picking your meal via the touch screen display and paying right there at your seat by swiping a credit card. 

It worked perfectly, and it didn't take long for my tapas plate to arrive. 

I'm not normally one to order fruits and veggies over a nice sandwich, however, the selection of cheeses and avocado hummus sounded delicious at the time.  And it was.

Track your flight's progress in real time with Google Maps.
Track your flight's progress in real time with Google Maps.

I had a lot of fun tracking our flights' progress with the touch screen.  I also made a playlist from the wide selection of music that's available and listened to that instead of my MP3 player. 

Sidenote to Richard Branson -- be sure and add the Red Hot Chili Peppers to your library.

I also caught up with a few episodes of Bravo's Top Chef thanks to the free satellite TV service. 

Premium movies were $8 which was tempting, but too steep for a medium length flight.  Foreign flicks were $5 each.

On my flight home, with the two seats next to me empty, I splurged on Wi-Fi ($12.95 for 3+ hour flight). 

The connection was fast, though the cost was again higher than I would pay on an ongoing basis.  If I had work to do, or the flight was longer, I might consider paying for it again. 

The Wi-Fi is available through Gogo Inflight Internet, which offers a monthly rate as well.

The American flag on the Virgin wingtip is a nice touch.
The American flag on the Virgin wingtip is a nice touch.

And last, but not least, the service from the actual humans still involved in the experience was wonderful. 

The self-service approach to ordering food on the flight meant that the aisles were clear most of the time, and it was easy to visit the bathrooms (which were clean and smelled pleasant...I think there was even music playing back there).

Overall, Virgin America feels like a more contemporary airline than any other I've flown. 

I'm already looking forward to my next chance to fly with them.

Portugal's Peneda-Geres National Park

More than 400 miles north of the sun-drenched beaches of Portugal's Algarve region stands one of the world's few temperate rainforests and Portugal's only national park: the darkly beautiful Peneda-Geres.

The park, part of Portugal's Minho region, curls around a large section of the border with Spain. Its peaks and valleys are drowned in thick woods and slashed by the icy violence of white water rivers.

A bridge in Peneda-Geres National Park in Portugal.
A bridge in the Peneda-Geres

Humankind has made only shallow forays into this wild and extreme landscape, though there's no shortage of aorta-bursting, pants-wetting roads.

Peneda-Geres extracts a physical toll from those who seek its wonders. And it hates cars with a passion.

Last June, my wife Sarah and I spent three weeks traveling Portugal from tip to tail.

I remember our time in the Peneda-Geres National Park as sparkling moments: ragged shreds of clouds drifting past our hilltop pousada...drizzle rolling off leaves into engorged streamlets-the view of Albufeira da Canicada's calm waters from the precariously perched patio.

Scenic view
Scenic view

You get the feeling that Portuguese civil engineers looked at this vast wilderness and sheepishly declared it'd make a great green space.

Nevertheless, there are roads, and you'd be doing yourself a disservice if you didn't make at least a cursory tour.

The joy I felt upon surviving the near-vertical ascents and winding switchbacks is truly indescribable.

We felt joy and sweat, expecting the sound of a shorn driveshaft or the shrieking of tortured engine belts.

And yet, the wind at the crest of each hill and peak always greeted our shaken selves, and the beauty of verdant vistas falling away through clouds proceeded to surprise us a little more.

The park harbors countless viewpoints like the Miradouro Velho (altitude 824m) with its ledge that juts into space.

Here, the car was a godsend for us, though many people prefer to make the hike.

The infrastructure within the park is pleasantly minimalist; in many places, I was a spartan handrail away from plunging off the slick rocks of miradouros to an ignominious death far below.

This seemingly half-finished handiwork increased the sense of our trespassing upon nature.

We spent one wet day driving through the park to Portela do Homen, a little outpost on the Portugal-Spain border, so we could briefly set foot in Galicia.

The empty guard station at the border looked threatening, but it didn't interfere with our border-hopping. The drive was gorgeous despite the weather.

The road runs beneath a canopy of old-growth tree boughs, crosses gushing streams, and skirts the edges of cliffs hundreds of feet high.

Our maps, hiding their filthy lying selves, showed this as a straight shot from the main town of Caldas do Geres.

The road was, in reality, positively intestinal. Friends, if you're prone to motion or car sickness, take a side order of Dramamine with your breakfast.

It seemed that time, like man, struggled to penetrate this wilderness as we passed through the antiquated towns of Ermina and Fafio.

We parked the car and continued on foot to Pedra Bela, which gifted us with expansive views of the mountains in Peneda-Geres National Park.

Nearby, a rutted dirt road led us to the Arado Falls, where, after a short hike, we were assaulted by a deafening roar. Boulders lay strewn along the hillside like the ragged edges of some massive earthen wound.

The author
The author

On the way back to the car, we saw a daub of red paint that denoted one of the many trails crisscrossing the park like the lattice-work topping of some giant pie.

Campsites punctuate the trails, and with sufficient planning, you could spend days hiking around the park's 400 square miles.

After a brief stay, we headed south to Port country, away from Portugal's beguiling temperate rainforest.

Days earlier, the proprietor of our guest house in Porto gushed excitedly when I told her our plans to visit the park.

Too many visitors skip it, but it's where many Portuguese go to get away from it all.

Peneda-Geres will test your resolve and reward your perseverance: wild tranquility captured as an ember in the clouds of your memory.

_____

About the Author: You can follow Keith at Traveling Savage as he writes his way out of the office and around the world. Soon, Keith will split time between experiential travel and his wife and home in Wisconsin.

Friday Flashback - Drakensberg Mountains & Kingdom of Lesotho

Hiking in the Drakensberg Mountains
Hiking in the Drakensberg Mountains

Leaving the Wild Coast, I spent a few nights in Durban to catch up on my blogging before heading onward to a lodge in the southern Drakensberg Mountains.

From there I did a day hike to see some old San rock art, and a morning hike in Lesotho, which was dampened by clouds and rain before we could reach the peak we'd set out for.

Quintessential Barcelona

Words that come to mind when I think of Barcelona:  football (soccer), the beach, tapas, wine, Picasso, partying, Gaudi, skateboarding, warm weather, and backpackers.

Tapas and wine at Quimet and Quimet.
Tapas and wine at Quimet and Quimet.

La Sagrada Familia
La Sagrada Familia

Spanish street performer.
Spanish street performer.

Sailboats in the marina.
Sailboats in the marina.

Sculpture by Roy Lichtenstein.
Sculpture by Roy Lichtenstein.

A beautiful day for a photo shoot.
A beautiful day for a photo shoot.

Winter surfing
Winter surfing

Casa Mila by Antoni Gaudi
Casa Mila by Antoni Gaudi

Lionel Messi prepares to enter the match for FC Barcelona.
Lionel Messi prepares to enter the match for FC Barcelona.

Meat for sale at Boqueria Market on La Rambla
Meat for sale at Boqueria Market on La Rambla

SteriPEN: Ultraviolet Water Purification

Way back in 1998, when I took my first backpacking trip to Europe during the peak of summer, I quickly developed a love affair with the large 1.5-liter bottles of water.

One or two of them per day was sufficient to keep me hydrated while getting lost in Rome or Paris.

And because the tap water was by and large safe to consume, I was also able to refill them.

Fast forward 10 years, and I'm visiting one of the poorest countries on the planet, Nepal, and feeling guilty within the first few hours of arriving due to the amount of crumpled plastic bottles piling up in my hotel room.

Recycling efforts cost money and remain the domain of more industrialized countries.

The alternatives, as I knew them, were steady ingestion of iodine to purify the definitely-not-fit-to-consume tap water, or filtration systems that looked too confusing to bother with.

Recently, however, I learned about another option.

A local stream
A local stream

SteriPEN is a portable water purification device that uses shortwave germicidal UV light to disinfect water. Sounds cool, right?

This type of light disrupts the DNA of microbes in water within seconds, ensuring they cannot reproduce, which saves you the hassle of getting ill.

Collecting water to purify.
Collecting water to purify

To try the device, I walked to a small stream near my home and filled a 0.5-liter bottle (16 fluid ounces) with water to zap. 

The maximum amount of water that can be treated at once using the SteriPEN Traveler, which is the model I was testing, is 1 liter (32 fluid ounces). 

The instructions indicate that the device should only be used with clear water. 

If the water is brown coming out of the faucet (as I've sometimes encountered abroad) or muddy, then it needs to be pre-filtered using a more traditional method (like a coffee filter or t-shirt) first.

The SteriPEN Traveler is about the length of a toothbrush.
The SteriPEN Traveler is about the length of a toothbrush

Once I got the water sample home, I loaded up the SteriPEN with four AA alkaline Duracell batteries. 

It's worth noting that the instructions strongly emphasize the use of Lithium or NiMH batteries, as they last longer, and can yield up to 200 one-half liter treatments.

I pressed the button on the handle once, and a red light started flashing. 

The batteries I'd put in weren't giving the device enough juice.  I switched them out for newer Duracell batteries and clicked the button again. 

This time it flashed green, which was the "go" signal to insert the device in water.

The SteriPEN at work on a ½ liter of water.
The SteriPEN at work on a ½ liter of water

I plunged the SteriPEN Traveler into the bottle of stream water and the UV lamp turned on almost immediately after the metal water sensing pins made contact. 

Next, I swirled the lamp around in the water bottle in a clockwise motion so as to ensure the water gets mixed up and is equally treated.

This step is in accordance with the instructions. 

After about 30 seconds, the lamp turned off and the LED indicator light on the handle turned green. 

This indicated the treatment was complete.

I removed the SteriPEN, dried off the lamp, and put its plastic cover back on. I took a sip of the treated water.

It tasted of soil, but that was to be expected.

You might be wondering how I know the water is safe to drink. 

At the end of the day, I know it's safe because of the science behind it, which is the same way I know dropping iodine in my water bottle while trekking in the Himalaya is safe.

If that's not enough for you, then take heart in the testing and certification the product has undergone:

SteriPEN products have been tested by the Water Quality Association (WQA) against the US EPA Microbiological Water Purifier Standard. SteriPEN has received the WQA's Gold Seal, certifying that SteriPEN purifies water safely and effectively.

Still doubtful? 

How about a long list of testimonials from people not just drinking stream water from their neighborhood, but from taking SteriPEN on expeditions to Mt. Everest and thru-hikes of the Appalachian Trail.

In the dark, the UV light glows brightly as it destroys the DNA of illness-causing microbes.
In the dark, the UV light glows brightly as it destroys the DNA of illness-causing microbes

There are 13 different ways the LED indicator light on the handle can blink, each of which signifies something different, such as battery and lamp warnings, so it may be necessary to carry the instructions with you. 

It's worth noting that battery performance may be adversely affected at temperatures below 32F/0C. 

A back-up solution (such as iodine tablets) if you are hiking or camping for extended periods of time, or in especially cold weather, would also be a good idea.

The device itself is lightweight, but the addition of four batteries does give it some heft. 

If I were to take one on an extended trip, I would choose the Traveler mini which only takes two batteries, and purifies up to 100 liters of water.

Overall, I found the SteriPEN extremely easy to use, and I look forward to taking it on my next trip abroad where I can put it to greater use. 

In the process, I'll be saving money, and reducing the amount of plastic waste I leave behind.

_____________

SteriPEN is a current sponsor of Go Backpacking, and I received a complimentary device for the purpose of writing this review.  The opinions are mine.

The Road to Halabja Part IV - A Bad Time to Arrive

This is the next guest post in a series by Kevin Post.  If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

Downtown Irbil (Hawler)
Downtown Arbil (Hawler)

Upon arriving in Arbil, the dust cleared and gave way to an incredibly strong sun.

It must have been roughly 42ºC (107ºF) that Spring morning in Arbil, but it felt hotter due to the power of the sun beaming down on my black long-sleeved shirt.

I called my host from the driver’s cell phone and he seemed happy that I had arrived.

I hugged my driver goodbye, thanked him for the conversation and began walking.  It was a mere five or six blocks from were the driver dropped me off to my host’s house in the north of Arbil

After walking a few blocks, my host’s brother accompanied me to the house.

He didn’t speak a word of English, knew no Turkish and spoke a dialect of Kurdish I wasn’t familiar with called Soranî. “All of that Kurmancî Kurdish for nothing,” I thought slightly joking.

As we arrived to the front door the brother gave me the international ” I don’t have the keys” gesture.

Waiting by the front door with my host’s brother was the best Soranî Kurdish lesson I could ask for. I learned a lot about the alphabet, basic Soranî phrases and how to read the numbers.

After spending nearly a half hour in blazing midday heat practicing Soranî Kurdish, my host finally arrived.

It was strange meeting my host because on the phone he seemed happy that I arrived but meeting him in person he was expressionless as he shook my hand, as if I were causing him a great inconvenience. He let us in the house and offered me some water and left because he had to work outside of town. I greatly appreciated receiving shelter.

The house was three stories and had at least six bedrooms. It turns out that it was a house for an engineering company where they housed their workers.

I unpacked what little I had, and spoke with a Turkish engineer who lived there six months each year.

He greeted me with the friendliness that Turks are famous for, and came off as a very nice older gentleman.

However, he was about to significantly change the way I viewed the Kurdish region of Iraq for the worse.

You see, I arrived in Iraq at a bad time, as Turkey had recently invaded Northern Iraq to attack PKK (Kurdistan Workers’ Party) guerrillas fighting for an autonomous region in Turkey.

This created an atmosphere of fear throughout the region as Turkish special forces bombarded the Quandil Mountains near the boarders of Iran and Turkey.

I spent about an hour listening to him explain how horrible and dangerous Arbil and the rest of Iraqi-Kurdistan was.

He even told me that taking photos of the city could get me jailed. Foolishly, I took his advice, and as a result, I have very few photos to show of my trip to Arbil.

Just like the Turkish soldiers on the Turkish side of the border, he told me that I have a high risk of being killed.

The way he spoke, and the stories he told me, made me fear venturing further into Northeastern Iraq. Shortly afterward, things seemed to go from bad to worse.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

Eating Cobra in Vietnam, Bourdain Style

Check out this video to see Brock (from Backpack With Brock) slurp a beating cobra heart and then proceed to eat other delicious bits and pieces of the snake (including penis wine--I kid you not).

I had bet him $50 to do this while in Vietnam to make up for missing the experience myself. 

I got the idea after seeing Anthony Bourdain do it on his old Food Network TV show and book, A Cook's Tour.

The only question is.....whether Brock can get through the whole meal without losing his lunch!

Tracking the Elusive Chimpanzees of Nyungwe

Starting point for our hike in Nyungwe Forest
Starting point for our hike in Nyungwe Forest

A few years ago, during my visit to the temples of Tikal in eastern Guatemala, a Brit with whom I was sharing a room convinced me to wake up before daybreak to catch the sunrise from atop Temple IV.  Earlier that day, it had been cloudy, and there was no reason to believe the sky would clear up on account of us.

Despite my preference for sleep, I woke up around four in the morning, and hiked in the darkness with a small group of backpackers.  We ascended the old, rickety wooden staircase and took a seat on a stone platform facing East.  We talked travel to pass the time, and as the jungle slowly awoke with the sounds of tropical birds and howler monkeys, the sky lightened to reveal a blanket of grey cloud cover .

Any small hope of a spectacular sunrise that morning was dashed, but that's not why I'd agreed to join them.  I'd woken up early to share a unique experience with my fellow travelers.  Whether we saw the sun rise up from the Guatemalan jungle as the ancient Mayans would've seen it mattered not.

William poses with his walking stick, while Eric (left) and Ben (right) chat.
William poses with his walking stick, while Eric (left) and Ben (right) chat.

So when we were up before dawn, and hiking through Rwanda's Nyungwe Forest at an elevation high enough to have our hearts pounding, without a chimpanzee in sight, I didn't mind.  We did a fairly good job of sticking to the scheduled departure time, and we hit the trail with enthusiasm.  It just so happened, after 30 minutes, that when our tracker went ahead to scout for them, they were deep in the jungle, off the well maintained, if slippery, trail.

Crossing a little wooden bridge.
Crossing a little wooden bridge.

We pressed on, socks pulled over our pants to protect against the legions of red (fire) ants patrolling the jungle floor.

Orchid
Orchid

Instead of focusing on what I wasn't going to see (the chimps), I began to appreciate our surroundings for what they could offer: orchids, waterfalls, butterflies, a well-camouflaged frog, and steep inclines that ensured I was working off all the desserts I'd been eating.

A frog, unfortunately, was the closest thing we saw to a chimpanzee!
A frog, unfortunately, was the closest thing we saw to a chimpanzee

Chimpanzees, unlike other primates, are always on the move.  This was in stark contrast to the mountain gorilla group we visited, which was chilling on the forest floor and in low-lying limbs for the full hour we were in their presence.  No, it turns out chimps keep moving, which necessitates the "tracking" and early-morning start.

While we didn't see any chimps, we did learn that they are feisty buggers.  Working in small teams, it's common for one to run up a tree containing peaceful monkeys, and shake them off.  When the monkeys fall to the ground, the remainder of team chimpanzee is lying in wait to attack and eat them.

On second thought, maybe it's better we didn't find the chimps.

Friday Flashback - South Africa's Wild Coast

Bulungula
Bulungula

I spent an uneventful night in Port Elizabeth, and was off the next morning to Buccaneers, a hostel on the western edge of the Wild Coast.  The wine volleyball game that greeted me that first afternoon quickly ensured the hostel would become one of my favorites to-date.

While Buccaneers was good for a party, my next stop was an eco-lodge/hostel called Bulungula.  Also set on the coast, and within a Xhosa village, it was well worth the effort it took to get there (and then back out again).

Fine Dining At Nyungwe Forest Lodge

While staying at my first 5-star accommodation, the Nyungwe Forest Lodge in southwestern Rwanda, I was treated to wonderful cooking.  The chef hailed from Rwanda, which made the experience all the better.

A refreshing (non-alcoholic) caipirinha awaited each of us upon arrival.
A refreshing (non-alcoholic) caipirinha awaited each of us upon arrival.

Warm tomato soup was a welcome treat on a cool and cloudy afternoon.
Warm tomato soup was a welcome treat on a cool and cloudy afternoon.

A cheese plate completed our first lunch.
A cheese plate completed our first lunch.

Nile Perch topped with tomato, onion, & fresh herbs, served with fragrant rice, seasonal vegetables, and Beurre Blanc sauce
Nile Perch topped with tomato, onion, & fresh herbs, served with fragrant rice, seasonal vegetables, and Beurre Blanc sauce

The malva pudding was decadent.
The malva pudding was decadent.

A little finger food before dinner.
A little finger food before dinner.

Smoked salmon & avocado salad, with a balsamic vinaigrette.
Smoked salmon & avocado salad, with a balsamic vinaigrette.

Beef fillet with a red wine gravy and sweet potato mash.
Beef fillet with a red wine gravy and sweet potato mash.

A rich, yet light chocolate mousse that received the thumbs-up from Eric (France).
A rich, yet light chocolate mousse that received the thumbs-up from Eric (France).

Our last breakfast: scrambled eggs on bread with salmon, tomato, and potatoes.
Our last breakfast: scrambled eggs on bread with salmon, tomato, and potatoes.