Blog - Go Backpacking

Paddling Phewa Lake

One of the luxuries of traveling alone for an extended time is your ability to do whatever you want, whenever. It is the feeling of absolute freedom I worked so hard to enjoy. So once the meditation course wrapped up, I decided to stick around Pokhara a little longer to spend time with some of the cool people I met. Kevin (Swiss), Steven, Marie (both English), and I hired a paddle boat for a day on Phewa Lake.

The square contraption set on two pontoons looked dodgy but performed quite well. We took turns on the pedals, steering with a metal rudder. We motored across the lake and picked up a few beers on the opposite end, then ducked into an area where some water buffalo were bathing. We took our first swim there, though I was a bit apprehensive about the state of the water near such large beasts.

We continued to cruise toward the north end of the lake, enjoying the views and each other's company. Conversations ranged from the silly to serious, personal to reflections on what we learned in our Buddhist meditation course.

We went for swims on several occasions, working on either dives or our forward flips. I think I landed 2 of my 5 flips properly, so it was no surprise I had a sore back the next day!

After about 6 hours on the lake, we came ashore and grabbed an early dinner together. Worn out by the heat and Everest beers (which continue to kick my butt), I slept a solid 11 hours.

My 3-Day Tibetan Buddhist Meditation Course

A week to the day after completing my trek, I walked to the Ganden Yiga Chozin Buddhist Meditation Center in the northern section of Pokhara's Lakeside district.

I wanted to find out about the 3-day meditation course they offered. My timing couldn't have been better, as it was a weekend course set to start in 30 minutes.

The residential course is taught by an American monk, Venerable Losang Yeshe.

Participants spend at least Friday, Saturday, and Sunday in dorms, however since the class was abnormally large (13 people), there wasn't a dorm available for me.

While Friday and Monday were half days, they followed the same schedule as our two full days.

We had a 30-minute meditation at 6:30am, followed by breakfast, Hatha yoga, a teaching, lunch, group discussion, 2nd meditation, dinner, and 3rd meditation at 7:30pm.

After our evening meditation, we were to remain silent until the completion of the following morning's meditation.

We were to refrain from listening to music and using the internet as well.

This was a bit harder for me since I had to walk back to the busier part of town each evening.

All of our meals were vegetarian...and quite tasty!

Overall, I enjoyed the meditations (it's been awhile). It felt really cool to do our evening meditation by candlelight due to the power outages.

I kept my eyes slightly open for them so I could enjoy the environment inside the gompa.

The introductory teachings were a good refresher, plus I liked watching others grapple with concepts like reincarnation and karma, and spending time with a great international crowd open to new ideas.

Switzerland, Holland, Israel, England, and the USA were represented.

On the last day, a bunch of us went out to dinner at the Boomerang restaurant (while their nightly cultural song and dance performance occurred) and drinks at the ever-popular Busy Bee (cover bands nightly).

I continued to spend time with several of the people I met through the class over the following week.

Morning Hike To The World Peace Pagoda

When I first arrived in Pokhara, I distinctly remember looking up at the World Peace Pagoda and thinking that it would be a strenuous hike to get up to it (despite the guide book stating it only takes an hour). I decided to put the climb off until after my trek.

What a difference a 10-day trek can make for your perspective. On a fairly clear morning, I stepped out for a walk along the lake around sunrise. I ended up hiring a rowboat and crossing the lake, ascending the 300 meters or so to the World Peace Pagoda. As I was plodding up the steps alone, I felt a sense of pride in having greatly expanded my personal comfort zone for outdoor adventures.

Upon reaching the pagoda, the view of the Annapurna range (and to a lesser extent, Dhaulagiri) was stunning. There was some haze, however you could clearly recognize all of the peaks. I found it amazing how much of the mountain range you could see by simply crossing to the other side of the lake, let alone climbing up a few hundred meters. On a perfectly clear morning, the view would easily rival that which we had from Poon Hill.

After poking around the pagoda, and chatting with the few other tourists up there so early, I realized I wasn't ready to go back down. I walked a few minutes along the ridge and grabbed breakfast from a small restaurant. An older Canadian woman and her guide sat at the adjacent table for a snack and we chatted for a bit. She had completed a short trek in the region and was heading to eastern India and Bhutan with an organized tour.

It was up on the ridge that I decided it would be a shame to bypass India for fear of how crazy it will be. Her advice was to go with the flow. My perspective suddenly changed, and I soon found myself wanting to take on the challenge of traveling through India (if only for a few weeks in the relatively cooler, Buddhist north of the country).

After a quick descent back to the lake, I took a leisurely row back to central Lakeside, managing to capture something of a snow-covered mountain reflection in the still waters.

I Want To Fly Like An Eagle

I allowed myself a few days to recover from the trek, despite having felt far more sore the day after a dodgeball tournament then tramping around in the mountains. I gave up my Super Deluxe room at the Snowland Hotel ($25/night, complete with balcony overlooking the lake), for a more affordable room with bath at the Yeti Guest House ($6/night).

Pokhara, Nepal is a mecca for paragliders and I'd noticed them on a daily basis since arriving. It cost $95 USD for a 30-minute flight over the valley. I signed up for a morning group, though by the time we had taken the 30-minute jeep ride up Sarangkot mountain, clouds had descended over most of the peaks behind us. Instead, we had breathtaking views of the green valley, Lake Phewa, and the city.

After reaching the pinnacle of physical fright in my life with the canyon swing in Queenstown, paragliding seemed like a walk in the park. All the pilots were of different nationalities. I was paired with a French guy. We made a little small talk, as did all the pairs, however we were soon just sitting around watching everyone take off before us. Last to launch, I received the bare minimum of instructions, and was soon running down the edge of the mountain until we took flight.

Himalayan eagles soared around us as we caught the thermals up and made swooping turns to the left and right going down. It took a few minutes to feel comfortable in the seated position, with nothing below you but the terraced farmland. At least with skydiving you know you're going straight down. Paragliding is all about staying aloft. I can't imagine a sensation closer to flying then being up there with the birds. It was fantastic.

Everyone is encouraged to take photos, so when I managed to get my camera out and start taking some, I lost track of shifting my weight with the pilot to help with the turns. He made a sarcastic remark about me not helping him out much so I apologized (given my life was in his hands) and put the camera away.

As we prepared to land I received the simple instructions for what to do - stand up and start running. And it was as easy as it sounds.

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek: A 10-Day Adventure

Never Ending Peace And Love

Perspectives from a first-time trekker on the Annapurna Sanctuary trek in the Himalaya of Nepal.

The Scenery

Hopefully, the photos I've posted speak volumes about the scenery. Words hardly do it justice, so I'm not going to try too hard.

Green forest valleys gave way to snow-covered mountains of the highest caliber.

Waking each morning to new and stunning views of the mountains with perfect blue skies in the background hardly felt real. It took me days to realize I was in the midst of such an experience.

Beautiful rhododendron flowers paint the sides of mountains in red and pink. Forests seem magical...rivers powerful...stone steps never-ending.

The smallest of flowers growing between the stone steps were as beautiful as the larger-than-life mountain views.

Watching the sunrise over the Annapurna range from Poon Hill was akin to walking into St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican City for the first time - a spiritual, awe-inspiring experience for even the non-spiritual among us.

People

The locals were warm and friendly, which continues to be a reason I enjoy spending time in Nepal.

Gela was an all-star trekking partner who indulged my desire to take silly photos all the time. The other trekkers met along the way were also cool.

Our guide, Mohan, worked out well. At any given time, he was a masseuse, singer, dancer, magician, mathematician, comedian, and doctor.

Our porter, Nima, worked hard, kept a watchful eye on me when I needed it, and made the experience extra fun (especially toward the end when he'd enter the dining room after a few drinks).

Nepali boy at Himalaya Guest House in Chomrong

Lessons Learned

Western companies and tour groups are not the way to go. Who wants to walk in such majestic places with a giant crowd of people no doubt talking to one and other all the time.

Support Nepali travel agencies, guides, and porters. It's cheaper and gives you a closer cultural connection.

It's as easy to hire a guide and porter for a trek in Nepal as it is to go skydiving in New Zealand. And there's no paperwork to sign!

Be clear about the goals of your trek when hiring a guide. If you want to be able to take your time, then stress that reaching base camp is not critical.

On the popular routes (Sanctuary, Circuit, Everest), guides and porters are not necessary. Take a book or a map; however, the maps and trails are so obvious it'd be hard to get lost.

If traveling during the high seasons, there are plenty of other trekkers to meet in advance or along the way, and guides are always around for you to ask questions (how far is it to X, what do you think the weather will be like today, etc.).

Prepare for all weather conditions. Ask, "what happens if I get caught in the rain my first day?"

At the same time, don't feel the need to bring an entire waterproof outfit, as you can usually do your walking in the mornings before it rains, and dry your wet clothes (or laundry) by the guest house stoves or heaters each night.

Layering is essential. I wore 1-4 layers at any given point in the day/night. It would be blisteringly hot under the sun at times, and cold in the evenings.

Invest in an authentic sleeping bag, and know how it performs in varying degrees of cold. I'd rather be too warm than too cold.

Gela was comfortable in her friend's real North Face -7 degree Celsius sleeping bag the whole time, even above 4,000 meters at ABC.

My fake -5 degree bag sucked balls, and I had to depend on guest house blankets and extra clothes (not a good feeling)

Take your time. Walk slow, watch your steps - up and down. Use a walking stick for added support and balance.
Greet the locals with "namaste."
Drink water and eat snacks (chocolate, granola, etc.) at your rest stops. Drink and eat more than you think you need.
Drink herbal teas and warm water.
If you feel worried about the remoteness, the steepness of trails, the weather, the altitude, RELAX and try to stay in the moment, focusing on the scenery and people around you.
Breathe evenly and deeply.
Find food you like and eat a lot of it (stay consistent, trekking isn't the time to experiment).
Establish an eating routine - eat the same meals each day (porridge w/apple for breakfast, pizza/noodles for lunch, dal bhat for dinner).
Adding sugar to tea, water, and food is an excellent way to consume extra calories and gain quick energy.

Nancy reviews photos with another trekker in Chomrong

Trekker Nationalities (met along the way)

German
Austrian
Dutch
English
Swiss
Estonian
French
Italian
Irish
Czech
American
Polish
Malaysian
South Korean
Israeli
Canadian
Thai
Japanese

Truly Final Thoughts

The difficulty of trekking in Nepal will depend on the person, route, time allowed, season, etc.

Having practically no outdoor experience myself, I found the first few days challenging - mentally and physically.

Yes, I tend to worry a bit in life, yet there's no getting around the fact that you quickly realize how much work it takes to travel 1...2...3 days into the mountains, let alone the logistics and effort of trying to get back out if you injure yourself, or mentally lose it.

Despite having hired a guide, I quickly found you need to look out for yourself first and foremost.

Still, on those days when I was waiting for Gela, I started to miss the routine of getting up early and hitting the trails.

We never stretched our legs before setting off - we just started walking. After a few days, your body seems to adapt.

There were as many trekkers in their 40's and 50's as there were in their 20's and 30's.

Despite all my concerns around Altitude Sickness, I never reached the heights where it became a significant concern.

Still, at certain heights, I was acutely aware of the extra effort and breathing it took to do seemingly easy things like going up and down a flight of stairs.

Usually, I was fine after a night's sleep, though. Guess I'll save my Diamox for the next mountain adventure.

Day 10 - When The Night Feels My Song

I'm on the rocky road, Heading down off the mountain slope, And as my steps echo louder than before. Another day is done, Say goodbye to the setting sun, See what I found, turn back to the ground just like before. And hey hey hey, hey hey hey (hey!), Hey beautiful day.

When the night feels my song, I'll be home, I'll be home.

Into the undergrowth, Twist and turn on a lonely road, In the twilight the day turns to night and I'm alone. And when the light has left, I'm not sure of my every step, I'll follow the wind that pushes me west back to my bed. -- Bedouin Soundclash

Friday, April 11, 2008

5:56 pm - Pokhara - Elev. 827 meters

In the morning, we ate and were off by 7:30am. We had a short descent, a few river crossings, and a lot of flat ground over three hours to Nayapul.

We had a bowl of noodles at a small restaurant around 10:30am, and caught a bus back to Pokhara. When the bus pulled up, it was packed. I was about to ask about a taxi when Gela's eyes lit up, as she realized we had the opportunity to ride on the roof. Before I knew it, our crew had climbed the back ladder in preparation for the two hour ride.

Initially, we had almost the whole roof to ourselves, however as the bus made it's way down the mountain, more and more locals jumped on for the ride. At our peak, I counted 18 people on the rooftop, let alone those sitting and standing inside the bus. The views were breathtaking - clearly we had the best seats, though not the most comfortable. The guy collecting money from new passengers worse a Brittney Spears t-shirt, and mine as well have been a Hollywood stunt man by the way he casually climbed around the outside of the moving bus.

Upon arrival back in Pokhara, Gela and I took some time to unwind, say goodbye to Mohan and Nima, return our rented equipment, and adjust to civilization again. Only a few hours after saying goodbye, we ran into Mohan and Nima again, inviting them out to dinner and drinks with us. The next day I said goodbye to Gela who was heading back home to Holland.

Estimated Distance = who cares...we did it!

Day 9 - Learning To Fly

Well I started out down a dirty road. Started out all alone. And the sun went down, as I cross the hill. And the town lit up, the world got still. I'm learning to fly, but I ain't got wings. Coming down is the hardest thing. -- Tom Petty

Thursday, April 10, 2008

4:07 pm - Hile - Elev. 1,430 meters

The 45-minute walk, 300-meter climb up Poon Hill (3,193 meters / 10,500 feet) was a bit tiring however I was motivated by the view so I made some speedy spurts along the way. Once on top, we saw a good sized crowd of people preparing to take photos. And we were doing the same thing. The sun slowly crept up over the mountains in the east, casting rays from below the mountains. It was quite a spectacle.

We could see all the big mountains like Annapurna South, Macchapucchre, Hiun Chuli, and ones I hadn't seen yet - Annapurna I (8,091 meters/ 11th highest peak in world) and the mighty Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters / 7th highest peak in world). Dhaulagiri was easier to film as the sun was farther away. We took lots of photos and returned to the guest house for breakfast.

We departed for Hile which was a day of descents - first through a bit more of the rhododendron forest, then after lunch, 3,280 wide stone steps in the sweltering hot sun. It was murder on our knees, and we all felt tired by the time we reached Hile.

Thankfully we had the guest house to ourself. It was on a farm with fantastic views of the terraces and valley.

We all ate Dal Bhat (rice and lentils) for dinner, and I drank an Everest (beer). We danced for awhile which was fun and silly. Gela and I spoke for awhile before turning the lights out. I really enjoyed it.

Back to the steps. I was cursing them. Hot...manure filled...endless stone stairs. The devil's work. *expletive*

We did pass a robust patch of marijuana though.

Estimated Distance = 12km

Day 8 - Waiting For The Sun

Deurali

At first flash of eden, we race down to the sea. Standing there on freedom's shore. Waiting for the sun. Can you feel it now that spring has come. And it's time to live in the scattered sun. Waiting for the sun. Waiting...

...This is the strangest life I've ever known. -- The Doors

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

3:20 pm - Ghorepani - Elev. 2,860 meters

In the morning, the view was foggy. We left Tadapani at 8am. I felt full of energy, while Gela had tape on her blistered feet and an Ace bandage around one knee. She felt and looked quite tired. It reminded me that I made the right decision, however it's still hard to let go of my chance to reach ABC. I guess it's not the end of the world.

As we walked to Deurali, we passed through gorgeous rhododendron forests with pink and white flowers. The forest felt magical - almost like "Lord of the Rings." After we descended the valley, we walked up along a stream past some cute goats and dogs.

We ate lunch in Deurali at an elevation of 3,000 meters! And we continued upward to about 3,200 meters at the top of the Deurali Pass (which was basically a forest along a mountain ridge). We stopped at a clearing and could see the lookout tower on Poon Hill on the mountain across from us.

We walked down to Ghorepani, reaching the "big" village just before it rained. The guest house is one of many, and the hall on the second floor is padded to ease the burden of blisters and walking after long treks. I took a lot of photos again, and will need to either delete some or be more judicious the last two days and nights.

The corn bread is really good. I bought Gela a small bracelet to help lift her spirits. I'll miss being able to spend time with her. She is always smiling and laughing.

The Evening

We had another nice night at Ghorepani, though we knocked off around 9pm as we had to wake at 4:45am to ascend Poon Hill for sunrise.

Estimated Distance = 6km

Day 7 - Living For Today

And if life is going by too fast...it's time for you to slow down...time for you to make it last...before you trip and slip...and you will miss this happy little stepping stone just before eternal bliss. -- Pennywise

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

4:28 pm - Tadapani - Elev. 2,630 meters

Around 5:45pm yesterday, Nima spotted Mohan and Gela coming down the hill to Chomrong. They looked very weary after the 11-hour walk down from Machhupuchhre Base Camp (MBC).

We were reunited after three days and got caught up. After dinner, I retired to bed around 8:30pm. I slept well. It was nice to share a room again.

In the morning, Gela and I talked further about our respective experiences and took our time eating and packing. We left 30 minutes late at 8:30am.

The walk to Tadapani meant descending a valley to our west, down to a river, and then climbing up another mountain through terraces of barely and the rhododendron forest. We reached Tadapani around 2pm, and as of yet, no rain. Nima thinks it'll just be a cold and cloudy night. In the morning, we walk to Ghorepani, before a sunrise at Poon Hill and our last night at Hile.

The Evening

I was very tired for the first few hours before dinner however it felt good to be at a table full of people. We ate and talked with a pair of Israeli trekkers, and a Canadian. Nima got drunk off the local liquor though we didn't see him actually drink it. Around 8:30pm, Mohan and another guide/porter started to sing Nepali songs for us. It was a very nice moment. Gela and I knocked off around 10pm. I slept well, only waking once or twice for a short time.

Estimated distance = 8 km

Day 6 - The 59th Street Bridge Song

Got no deeds to do, No promises to keep. I'm dappled and drowsy and ready to sleep. Let the morning time drop all it's petals on me. Life, I love you. All is groovy. -- Simon & Garfunkel

Monday, April 7, 2008

12:33 pm - Chomrong - Elev. 2,155 meters

I slept pretty well last night, though I think I had gas. Once I knocked off, I only awoke once due to a slight chill. Guessing asleep at 11am, up at 5:30am. The sky was clear blue, with the sun slowly rising in the east, illuminating Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli, Annapurna III, and Machhapuchhre.

After another breakfast of apple porridge, Nima and I headed down the mountain to the hot springs by the river below Jhinu danda which I skipped on the way up. It was relaxing with just the sound of the roaring river, and a sliver of Annapurna South to the north. We had the pool to ourself for 45 minutes.

The walk back up to Chomrong was tough. I took many breaks and went slow....slow. We basically climbed about 2,000 vertical feet in 1-1.5 hours. I've got a similar altitude to cover tomorrow over 5-6 hours. Gela is due back around 4-5pm I think. Hope she's good.

Estimated distance = 4 km

Day 5 - Beautiful Day

It's a beautiful day...The sky falls...And you feel like it's a beautiful day...Don't let it get away. -- U2

Sunday, April 6, 2008

8:18 am - Chomrong - Elev. 2,155 meters

I awoke around 1am last night, slightly chilly. I added my thin fleece and donned the warm wool mittens I had bought in Jhinu danda. I used the toilet, and unable to return to a slumber, began to hear a storm approach. Thunder roared through the valley, and with the electricity out, flashes of lightning were all that illuminated the landscape. Looking off the balcony - it was the darkest black I'd ever seen.

Stepping out of my room to try and record the sound meant ducking as a large bat spent the night flapping around up there. I tried to record the thunder on my camera. After the video session, I returned to bed, fell asleep and only awoke briefly at 5am. At 7:30am, I rose to continued rains - the first time we haven't had a crystal-clear blue sky to greet us.

It was nice to sleep in although Nima said it'll probably rain all day and the hot springs are too far a walk (3 hours return). That's OK, it feels warm and comfortable at the Himalayan View Guest House. I look up the valley from time to time and wonder how Gela is getting along - must be snowy at base camp.

After eating apple porridge and drinking a rich, tasty cup of milky hot chocolate, I feel good, stronger, more in the moment. I am looking forward to the second half of the trek at a slower pace.

8:05 pm

Potato curry and onion soup for dinner - a Twix for dessert. The storm clouds fully cleared out at sunset, exposing Annapurna South, Hiun Chuli, and at the very end of the light, Machhapuchhre. I knew this also meant a good night for stargazing. I clearly saw the Big Dipper over the valley to the northeast. Nima pointed out a shooting star to me. Amazing! Mohan and Gela are due back tomorrow afternoon. :)

Estimated Distance = 0km

Day 4 - Silent In The Morning

Silent in the morning...Suspended in the trees...Lunchtime comes you've found your voice...It brings me to my knees...The volume just increases...The resounding echoes grow...Till once again I bask in morning stillness, I love so. -- Phish

Saturday, April 5, 2008

1:33 pm - Chomrong - Elev. 2,155 meters

Storm clouds are rolling in even earlier today. Just heard the first crack of thunder. I'm at the Himalaya View Guest House and Restaurant for the next three days. Nima set a good slow pace for me and we reached Chomrong in a little over 1.5 hours. Plenty of photo/rest stops. I enjoyed it quite a bit.

I just looked at a bunch of photos from a Polish couples trip to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). It looked awesome, yet I think I always saw such a destination as a bragging right, not necessarily a personal goal. I'll have no shortage of great photos either.

Just ate about 5 pieces of tomato/onion/cheese pizza for lunch. Very good - Nima waited until after I was done to take me up on my offer to help me finish it.

The Evening

The rest of the day was spent in a relaxed way. Around 6pm I went down to the restaurant and had chicken curry with rice and mint tea for dinner. A small group was there - 2 South Africans and a Canadian (Nancy) whose voice I'd heard in the room next to me earlier. I enjoyed their company and didn't read much of "The Snow Leopard," a book Nancy also had with her. They had completed the Circuit trek and were on there way to ABC. I think time constraints create a greater challenge as you have less flexibility with regard to weather, feeling unwell, and just taking your time to enjoy the scenery.

On this fifth day, I am now much more comfortable with the rhythm of trekking, and am confident I could make it to ABC on my own schedule/pace.

Estimated Distance = 3km

Day 3 - Snow (Hey Oh)

The more I see the less I know...The more I like to let it go...hey oh...whoaaa. Deep beneath the cover of another perfect wonder...Where it's so white as snow. Privately divided by a world so undecided...And there's nowhere to go. -- Red Hot Chili Peppers

Friday, April 4, 2008

2:09 pm - Sinuwa - Elev. 2,360 meters

Gela and Mohan had told me out in the sun that worrying in my mind can translate into trouble with my body. I knew they were right but it would've been hard to explain how much I felt I had already overcome in just making it to Sinuwa. I tried anyways and I think they understood. As 1:30 pm rolled around, Mohan came to my room.

I was very direct in how I felt. Revitalized...though no longer concerned with reaching Annapurna Base Camp (ABC, Elev. 4,000 meters). I would require more time than Gela could afford. As it turns out, 10 days is too quick for me. Later, Nima said I could make it in 12-13 days and I felt reassured by his confidence in me. And the same can be said for Gela who said I was no less athletic than any of the other trekkers around me (young and old). I took her words to heart yet as I lay in bed talking to Mohan, knew my mind was made up. If I continued, I'd risk further slowdowns in more remote elevations, and likely keep Gela from a chance to reach ABC. And for me and her, I made the right decision to stay put. I wanted to have fun on the trek, and instead I felt as though I kept learning hard lessons. And the Himalaya - highest mountain range in the world - is not the place to learn these lessons.

Practically speaking, I would've been better off with a shorter trek (as my first). Still, I was reminded of a saying I once read:

Aim for the stars because if you fall...You still land in the clouds.

So an alternative plan was established. Mohan and Gela would head further ahead to Doban for the night as planned - or stop early if caught in the rain, while continuing on to Annapurna Base Camp Saturday. They'd meet up with Nima and I in Chomrong on Monday afternoon. Once reunited, we'd head west to Ghorepani (Elev. 2,874 meters) - a village Mohan confidently said I could reach. Then, we would take in a sunrise from Poon Hill amidst some of the highest mountains in the world, before heading back to Pokhara over another few days.

On My Own

I spent the rest of the day taking it easy. Nima Sherapa (our porter) kept a watchful eye on me and I soon found he spoke quite good English so we had no difficulty communicating. I introduced myself to 5 young English guys in the room next door as they were playing some fun music. They also had a small wooden chess board from India and cards. They were quite funny - Dan (got drunk), Jake, Mark, and two others. They were heading to ABC but on their own schedule, taking care to avoid the afternoon rain/hail (as none of them had waterproof shoes). In fact, they were mostly accumulating souvenirs and warm wool clothes as they went. They made me laugh and feel comfortable so I spent most of my time with them. I found it hard to take the trek, or myself, too seriously thereafter.

For dinner, I ate garlic soup again (it's suppose to help with the altitude) and some spaghetti, though I should've forced myself to eat more of it. In bed later, my stomach gurgling for sustenance, I ate most of a rock-hard granola bar and Snickers. I only got about three hours of sleep - from about 2-5 am'ish. During what felt like a long night, I used the toilet twice, refilled my water bottle, listened to some music, listened to the English guy in the room next to me rustle about and fart (he couldn't sleep either). I was warm though - too warm - so I took off the long johns which were too tight around the waist anyways, and my heavy fleece. I tried my best to keep the thinking to a minimum - it was hard.

Estimated Distance = 5km

Day 3 - Wasn't Born To Follow

Oh I'd rather go and journey...Where the diamond crescent's glowing and...Run across the valley...Beneath the sacred mountain...And wander through the forest...Where the trees have leaves of prisms...And break the light in colors...That no-one knows the names of. -- The Byrds

Friday, April 4, 2008

2:09 pm - Sinuwa - Elev. 2,360 meters

At 1 am I awoke with uncontrollable shaking throughout my body. I felt cold but when I felt my skin it seemed warm and clammy. I changed into my thick fleece, put on socks, beanie, and gloves. And I turned around on the bed so my head was away from the window. After zipping up my sleeping bag all the way, I began to feel better, and the shaking/shivering ceased. During this time, I contemplated waking Gela, and trying to find our guide Mohan. The problem was I didn't know what room he was in to try and get a blanket. In the end, it was an experience in self-reliance and simple survival.

This morning I awoke at 5:45 am when Gela rose and said "wow" upon looking out the room's window. She didn't realize how close the mountains were to us. I managed myself out of bed to breakfast after a massive misfire on the first squat toilet I've needed to use in 10 years. Washing it down and cleaning up was surprisingly easy.

I had porridge and hot water again for breakfast. I still didn't have much of an appetite but it was tasty. I knew it was to be a tough day, and set off with the group in high spirits.

We ascended the steep section from Jhinu danda to Chomrong in about an hour's time. It was exasperating. It felt amazing to hike up to a point that seemed to simply tower over us the day before. We then headed down the mountain to cross the river and head back up more steep stone stairs to Sinuwa. Clouds were upon us and rain had begun to sprinkle down. It was cool.

The Turning Point

I was panting heavily by the time we stopped in the Sherpa Guest House in Sinuwa. I started to notice I remained winded, breathing heavily, well after everyone else was fine. I layed on a bench and my breathing relaxed a bit, but my arms and hands began to tingle (in a way I've never felt before). At first, I thought they fell asleep, however Mohan and Nima started to check my pulse, recognizing something was right. This action drew the attention of others in the restaurant. A group of older French women were also relaxing (on their way down from Annapurna Base Camp) and one of them called her friend Isabelle over, as she was a doctor.

Isabelle didn't speak fluent English, however she asked questions like how much I'd had to eat/drink, how I slept the prior night, if I had a headache. We took my temperature (with the thermometer I brought) and there was no fever. It didn't seem to be the altitude as I had no headache. Basically, she diagnosed me with exhaustion and not eating/drinking enough. Upon reflection, I ate far too little for the physical activity I was enduring, however this was much in part due to my Giardia/stomach problems. And what I was ordering - plain rice/potato curry/tomato soup - I wasn't eating a lot of.

Isabelle had me eat a recently bought Snickers and I started to consume garlic soup ordered earlier by Mohan. I slowly lost the tingling feeling in my arms and hands. Isabelle suggested I sit outside as the sun was shining after the short rain. The view was much better and the warm heat felt good. I stared south down the valley, trying to eat more plain rice and toast with jam (doctor's orders). Mohan poured out my water which I had messed with earlier by adding rehydration salts. I hadn't been drinking as much since it tasted so awful. One of the French women brought to my attention that the third day of a trek is notoriously hard, given the first day or two are often driven by adrenaline and a fresh body. She also said I was looking better than when she first saw me. Apparently my face and hands were pale white twenty minutes prior.

As I felt my energy return (especially after drinking a liter of boiled/filtered water), my thoughts turned to what would happen next. I deserved a piss. I followed Isabelle's instructions by taking a rest in one of the guest house beds for 30 minutes - a bit longer than suggested but it felt comfortable and safe.

Estimated distance = 5 km

___________________

Nurse Amy - I'm curious to hear if you have any thoughts on what might have been happing. I'm guessing low blood sugar and high blood pressure?

Day 2 - Ballad Of Easy Rider

Morning view of Annapurna South (left) and Hiun Chuli (right)

The river flows...It flows to the sea...Wherever that river goes...That's where I want to be...Flow river flow...Let your waters wash down...Take me from this road...To some other town. -- Roger McGuinn

Thursday, April 3, 2008

2:44 pm - Jhinu danda - Elev. 1, 745 meters

Typical trekking map along the route (in villages)

We awoke around 6 am to beautiful, clear views of Annapurna South (7,219 meters) and Hiun Chuli (6,441 meters).

It was chilly. Gela said she was coughing during the night however I was fast asleep.

I had porridge for breakfast with some hot water to drink. It was quite good. We left at 7:45 am.

From Tolka, we headed down to Landruk. We passed through Himalpani, arriving at Jhinu danda 30 minutes early at 11:30 am.

We passed over a few small bridges and two larger ones. The mighty Modi Khola roared below.

Despite starting and ending at about the same elevation, we went up and down quite a bit.

I went slower than the first day, taking special care on the descents to take smaller steps.

I was often at the tail end of our four-person crew. They were never far from sight though.

Despite walking along steep cliffs and up endless stone stairs, I found my rhythm.

The final ascent was exasperating. Aiming for Tibetan prayer flags that signaled rest kept me going.

Rain, hail, thunder, lightning, a rainbow. I feel like we've had a lot of time today to relax and recover. I need as much as possible.

Tomorrow is suppose to be a tough day. 6-7 hours of trekking some very steep mountain terrain.

And it is all the more important to start early to reach shelter before the weather turns bad.

The power just came back on!

That Evening

After the rain, Gela and I headed to the restaurant room where there was a large tour group taking up most of the space.

It reaffirmed for me that hiring a guide/porter was the right decision.

For many reasons: less costly, more flexible, more control (or so we thought on the last two points).

We chatted, read, ate, and drank ginger tea. Gela retired first. When I left for the room, I looked up and saw the most amazing stars.

Beautiful and clear like my first night in Tahiti.

I craned my neck skywards and slowly turned to take it all in.

The surrounding mountains were so high it was hard to tell where people's homes ended and the stars began.

After listening to some music, I knocked off as Gela did earlier.

Estimated distance = 7 km

Day 1 - Shelter From The Storm

'Twas in another lifetime, one of toil and blood...When blackness was a virtue and the road was full of mud...I came in from the wilderness, a creature void of form. "Come in," she said, "I'll give you shelter from the storm." -- Bob Dylan

Wednesday, April 2, 2008 9:43 am

We were dropped off at 1,220 meters and immediately climbed 320 meters in the first half hour.

10:07 am - Dhampus - Elev. 1,700 meters

Sun is intense. Sweating all down back. Beautiful.

11:48 am - Pothana - Elev. 2,000 meters

We have stopped for lunch in Pothana - Hotel Fishtail and Restaurant. Sounds include children playing, birds crowing, our food cooking, and the trickle of water from a tap by the hotel shower. A few Nepalis are playing a dice game nearby. Prayers fly off flags in the light breeze.

The morning hike was a rude awakening. Endless stone steps brought us past terraced farmland. Locals greeted us with "namaste" often. Red flowers of rhododendrons appeared. It is very pretty.

1:48 pm - Deurali - Elev. 2,150 meters

We have reached the high elevation of our trekking today. Large birds of prey circle the valley. A cool wind blows. A large prayer flag flutters. Rain and sun at the same time.

7 pm - Tolka - Elev. 1,785 meters

We sought shelter from rain at a Nepali home turned guest house. Sitting on the porch, damp and cool, rain turned to hail. Ox, chicken, dog, puppy, people, kids. All affected. On the next walk after a break in the weather, we got caught in another set of showers and hail, soaking my pants, socks, and sneakers. My rain jacket performed admirably, as did the North Fake short and long sleeve shirts, and my North Face fleece from China.

At about 1,900 meters, I surpassed my highest elevation to-date. I turned my right ankle though there was no pain. As the day drew long, I also felt some pain in my left knee. I slowed down my pace and held the (walking) stick in my left hand. After we reached our guest house, Mohan applied some Tiger Balm and massaged my leg. I didn't have an appetite - plain rice and tomato soup for dinner. I feel unbelievably tired. I want to sleep forever.

Most all of our clothes dried within a few hours by the wood stove. It is dark and peaceful.

Estimated distance = 11 km

Ready, Steady, Abort

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

6:43 am

We depart on our trek at 8am. For the fourth morning, I awoke at dawn to birds chirping, a cow or ox moo'ing, and other charming sounds outside my windows.

Pokhara is lovely, peaceful, and laid back - at least in Lakeside. I feel excited. My stomach cramps have gotten better. This trek is 90% mental, 10% physical, and I'm up for the challenge!

12:55 pm

I was picked up by scooter at 8am, zipped to The Mountain House, and learned Gela had a fever the night before. The decision to postpone our departure for a day was easy.

Instead, we toured a local Buddhist monastery, walked through the back alleys of a Tibetan refugee settlement, and toured a private monastic school. The half-day of sightseeing ended at a Hindu temple. Our trekking guide Mohan, and porter Nima, lead the way. An Australian, Dan, who was also delaying his travels due to illness joined us.

Final Trekking Preparations

The morning after deciding on which guide/porter to hire, Gela informed the manager at her guest house, and we met up for lunch at Boomerang, a restaurant with an idyllic outdoor patio overlooking the lake. The warm sun was beaming down on us, birds were chirping, prayer flags were fluttering, and the locals were going about their daily routines by the waterfront. I felt full of anticipation and excitement for what lay ahead. Trekking in Nepal's Himalaya was the #1 thing I wanted to do on my trip around the world, and the moment had arrived to make it a reality.

We made lists of the last-minute items we needed to pack, and went about buying granola bars, chocolate, iodine pills, toilet paper, etc. In the afternoon we met our guide, Mohan, and porter, Nima Sherpa. They seemed very quiet during our first meeting so I couldn't get a good feel for how well they spoke English. I was tickled that we would be spending time with a sherpa though. This ethnic group from the Khumbu (Everest) region of Nepal is highly spoken of by mountaineers (both in the books I've read and the TV shows I've seen) for their strength and loyalty on high-altitude expeditions.

The meeting was short, and to Gela's surprise, I had run out of questions. I did have the guest house manager (also a guide, of course) go through my pack so I could get a definitive answer to what I was missing. In the evening, we rented a large backpack for our porter, and I picked out a regular canvas daypack. I also bought a cheap double-sided fleece, and thin gloves and a beanie. Gela hired what we thought was a waterproof jacket (and later turned out to be crap).

I was still suffering from abdominal cramps. I had self-diagnosed myself with Giardia and picked up some antibiotics from one of the local pharmacies. I was hoping they'd kick in and I'd feel better for the first day of our trek. As if cramps weren't enough, I developed a blister between two toes on my right foot. I drained it a night ago but it still felt awkward and uncomfortable. I put a band aid on, but it hurt so I took it off for the night.

___________________________

As my time in Chengdu wound down, I reached deep into by backpack and pulled out a crumpled pair of Merrell hiking boots. After 4 months at the bottom of my pack, and only one day's use (Dec, New Zealand), they didn't feel right. They felt too tight, especially with wool trekking socks, so I didn't think they'd be comfortable. At the same time, I wasn't sure if I was better off using my non-waterproof New Balance cross-trainers or buying a new pair of knock-off boots in Nepal. I ended up using my boots for their trade-in value, and receiving enough feedback to feel confident using my broken-in sneakers which were well-fitted with my orthotics.

Meeting Gela

Around the time I was in Hong Kong, I had updated my TravBuddy.com profile to reflect my plans to trek in Nepal in April.

It was the first time I've tried to arrange to meet up with someone for the purpose of traveling together.

I didn't have to try too hard because I soon received a message from Gela (pronounced "gay-lah"), a Dutch woman planning to visit Nepal at the same time as me.

Over the next month or so, we exchanged emails every few days. She would be arriving in Nepal before me to volunteer in a village outside of Pokhara.

On my flight to Kathmandu, one of the Kiwis sitting next to me made a joke about the idea of planning a trek around someone you've never met.

I responded that it felt like an adventure within an adventure.

For some reason, the idea that Gela and I would not get along never occurred to me.

I just assumed that we were both the kind of person who liked the idea of having someone to meet up with in advance.

Through e-mail, we had also ensured our interests and priorities surrounding the trek were similar.

We bumped into each other on the sidewalk in Pokhara a few hours before we were due to rendezvous at the Moonlight restaurant for dinner.

It felt great to finally connect with the person I'd be trekking with for 10 days.

We walked down to the lake's edge as she hadn't yet seen the view yet. Once there, we sat on the concrete steps and began to get to know each other.

After our butts began to tire, we spoke to three travel agencies about hiring a guide and porter.

The prices for an 11-day Annapurna Sanctuary trek were all about the same.

I was happy we ran into Rob and Rosie at Moondance, though they left soon after for their night bus back to Kathmandu.

Gela and I discussed our options for the trek, and settled on hiring the guide/porter through The Mountain Guest House where she was staying.

It would cost me about $32/day, which included the cost of accommodation, 3 meals/day, and transportation to/from Pokhara.

Holding Pattern

7:38 am

I went to Moondance Restaurant with Rob and Rosie and two other kayakers joined us - Mike (France, 36) and Vasiili (Siberia, Russia, 32). I was surprised to hear Rosie is only 23 - she's kayaked since 11 or 12. Quite adventurous! She was cute - and I got a good vibe - not even sure she's with Rob, but they're off on their last river-run today so that's that. I had chicken tikka with rice and naan which was very good. I ordered an Everest beer, 5.5% alcohol in a big bottle. A good deal for $3 but I'm done with alcohol till the end of the trek - I need all the energy I can muster.

12:22 pm

First stop - internet - no response from Gela. Second stop - Busy Bee Cafe with lake view, prayer flags, and few customers. Haze does obscure the distant mountains but it doesn't matter. It's beautiful here.

I Google'd Rob and Rosie - I couldn't help it. Indeed they're pro's, or close to it! I love meeting cool, down to Earth people doing fantastic things. I wonder if anyone says that after meeting me?

Internet too slow to deal with photos now...or ever in mass.

Charlie said a new Asus AC Adapter will run $50 including shipping costs (from Chengdu). That's enough for me to think twice. Lug my impotent laptop around until India, or suck it up and buy the adapter?

4:52 pm

An hour ago I noticed winds rustling the leaves on trees. Now I just heard rumbles of thunder. Dark clouds are coming. I have a corner room with windows facing East and South.

6:25pm

I walked to the lake shore - very scenic. Sun was setting over mountain top - very bright. Abdominal cramps are stifling my desire to explore. I just realized ordering curry and beer last night wasn't a good idea, nor the veggie curry I had for lunch. If I get dinner, it'll be pasta or plain rice. I may just snack tonight, lay in bed, and read "Annapurna" - the story of the first ascent (of a peak over 8,000 meters) in 1950. The power is back on but via generators so the cable still doesn't work.

____________________

Surprise! On my first night in Nepal I learned that 4-hour power outages are scheduled in Kathmandu, and twice that time is scheduled in Pokhara (though split between the morning and evening). Most business, especially those catering to tourists, use generators when there is no electricity. Still, you're not always be able to get that fresh fruit drink at a restaurant.

I find the experience adds to the charm of Nepal. There is something uniquely romantic about the atmosphere once the electricity goes off. Maybe it's all the warm light from the candles.

The Road To Pokhara

7:55 am

Stuck in traffic on the bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara. I'm 1 of 4 Westerners (all notably in the back seats except one old large white guy). Local music playing at a low background volume. We have not gone far. Dirt, rock, and trash line road. I feel like I could be on TV or in a movie. I truly feel like I'm at the start of an expedition. It is exciting. Except for the traffic which sucks. Nirvana's "Unplugged" is now playing with the bus driver occasionally singing along. Probably driven 100 meters in past 45 minutes.

9:50 am

Stopped again, though outside Kathmandu at least. Steep mountain pass, descending into valley. Traffic stops are passenger times to take pisses off cliffs. A ** STRIKE** has stopped traffic on this occasion. Just talking with two couples in back of bus - English/Columbian and English. We don't know when we'll move again. I already took my turn pissing off a cliff. Drinking Coke and eating biscuits.

2:50 pm

Hot on bus - 1 hour to go. Hot...sweaty...tired.

5:31 pm

The bus arrived at 4:45pm (9 hours) and I shared a cab with kayakers Rob (Ireland) and Rosie (Whales) to the Snowland Hotel. Single room with private bath, TV, phone for $10/night - very nice. Resting.

_______________________

Despite the long, dusty drive I wrote about in my journal, the scenery was fantastic as we drove along a river and through terraced valleys. The buses and trucks were all decorated with hand-painted designs, stickers, and ornaments. Communication was heavily dependent on the use of horns, and they often had a really funny tone to them. I got quite a kick out of them.

Cultural Acclimatization

Finished reading "The Beach" this morning after not being able to fall asleep until 2am last night. Power was out when I awoke - I can tell by the hum of a nearby generator. I still can't get a charge on my laptop - very bothering. I was about to get up from the Kathmandu Guest House restaurant to find an electronics store when I realized I'd be better off sitting still and eating. I have to slow down - definitely focus on the trek now, alternative sightseeing later. Since arriving in Nepal, it feels like I have a constant rush of adrenalin pouring through my veins, and not having a computer as an outlet is stifling. I should plop down at an internet cafe if I don't have luck on my own.

Jasmine tea and an egg omelet for breakfast. This place - popular Kathmandu Guest House - feels too nice....too touristy....no edge. I think it'll be nice to stay here *after* returning from the trek. I saw the South African girl from last night at Pilgrim's internet space - she's flying back home to Dubai where she works for the airline. I like how they give you strainers with the jasmine tea. Nepali tea is really tasty - milky with cinnamon.

Trekking Stores And Permits

Thamel is the tourist neighborhood of Kathmandu, meaning there are a plethora of outdoor stores selling fake supplies most notably North Face (err, "North Fake") and Mountain Hard Wear clothing and sleeping bags. Just about everyone says they are a guide, and it feels very hard to get a straight answer when you try to find out what equipment you will need for your trek.

I really wanted to wait until I was in Pokhara with the guidance of a hired guide before buying any additional stuff, yet I could only spend so much time surrounded by shops before I caved in and wanted to spend a little money. I bought a -5 degree Celsius rated sleeping bag, an aluminum "Annapurna" walking stick, a short-sleeve shirt, a water bottle, waterproof gloves and pants. The latter two I didn't even take on my trek after talking to a few more straightforward guides in Pokhara. As I continue to learn, people will often play on your fears and ignorance to get you to buy just a little more. I'm proud to say I resisted most of what was pushed on me. Progress!

For anyone planning to trek in the Annapurna region, you'll most likely spend a night or two in Pokhara first. Do yourself a favor and wait until you get there to buy any necessary supplies. Everything the Kathmandu shops sell can be found in Pokhara, and it is a much more peaceful atmosphere to do your shopping.

Also, if you intend to trek through the Annapurna Conservation Area, you'll need to buy a permit. These can be obtained in Pokhara, which was not the answer I got when I bought one in Kathmandu through a travel agent. Lastly, all trekkers need to get a separate registration pass which is free. Again, these are available in Pokhara, often through the guide you hire. Despite the clear-as-day print on the pass which indicated it was free, I still agreed to pay a "service" fee of $10 in Kathmandu because the agent said it was a hassle to obtain them yourself. And he gave me the wrong type of pass to boot. Often such salesman get away with this tripe because customers don't care enough to return and cause a stink after the fact, myself included.

Touchdown In Kathmandu

Touchdown was perfect. Kathmandu is big and sprawling - colorful buildings surrounded by mountains. I wrote up the Visa application, got two passport photos taken, changed my Chinese yuen and paid the $35 fee in US dollars. Got my pack and was picked out by a few guys. My ATM card didn't work at the first machine. Went with guys through traffic and crazy narrow streets to Thamel - tourist district - and got a single room at Pilgrim's Guest House. Just ate a pepper steak over black tea...by candlelight in the hotel's garden courtyard. The electricity went off 10 minutes ago. I should carry my headlamp in the evenings going forward.

After settling in, I went to a nearby ATM, meeting a couple of shopkeepers along the way. They invited me in for tea and we chatted. Thamel is like Kuta, Bali except they try to sell you treks and outdoor gear instead of massages and transport. At least I'm a bit hardened to it now. And I'm somewhat comfortable navigating the crazy narrow streets. Lots of motorbikes, bicycles, people, cars, honking. I already can't wait to get out on a trekking trail! I'm excited to meet Gela as well.

Everyone greets you with "Namaste" here.

Come Fly With Me (Over The Himalaya)

The flight from Chengdu to Lhasa was cool - crossing over the Tibetan Plateau - the snow-capped, glacier-ridden mountains slowly coming into view through the cloud cover. Getting to the airport early had paid off - I was able to secure a window seat (13A) for both legs. Next to me were two Kiwis living and working in Scotland/Wales. They were quite friendly and I enjoyed talking with them. One of the guys relayed his experiences with an overland tour in Africa. In front of us were an American girl (Rose from California) and two Spaniards who were traveling by bicycle. Like me, they had to skip past Tibet for Nepal due to the recent turmoil. I admired their sense of adventure.

Even if just at the airport, I was glad to have touched down in Lhasa, Tibet - rooftop of the world - 12,000 feet! I think adrenaline and a hangover outmatched any immediate feelings from the altitude. I bought a small square thangka (painting) made in a Tibetan monastery and a turquoise/silver necklace at the gift shop. And then we boarded the second flight to Kathmandu.

We passed over the Himalaya and had a fantastically clear view of Mt. Everest out of the right side of the plane. It felt so near - it was massive. I took tons of photos as did most of the passengers.

Combined, the two flights were no more than about four hours, yet they inspired more awe in me than all the rest I've taken combined. I did my best to suck it all in, not knowing when I'd have such an opportunity again.

Final Thoughts: China

In planning my trip around the world, I always thought of China as my gateway to Tibet, rather than a destination unto itself.

The language barrier concerned me, it was a huge country, and I didn't feel too curious about it.

Since I couldn't travel to Tibet, it allowed me the second week in Chengdu to explore and experience the culture.

I savored the spicy food, enjoyed the endless cups of tea, and found myself growing to appreciate the people more and more.

That's not to say I didn't find the government propaganda resulting from the Tibetan protests to be far out of line.

Highlights -

crossing the border from Hong Kong to Shenzhen (mainland China)
meeting and eating with Michelle and David
beating Adam in my first game of snooker
Couchsurfing with Charlie in Chengdu
arranging my train ticket and permit to Tibet (despite not being able to go)
visiting the Tibetan neighborhood in Chengdu
touring the panda bear research base
exploring DuFu's cottage and several monasteries
drinking lots of tea in the parks
visiting tea shops
picking up daily snacks (specifically ice cream cones) at the convenience store adjacent to Charlie's apartment
visiting People's Park
hanging out with Charlie's girlfriend Jody, and other friends Jovian and Sascha (Fodor's writer, aspiring Lonely Planet writer and super vagabond)
going out to clubs and bars - The Hemp House, Nanuna, Fair Club, 88, Cafe Panam(e)
visiting Chinese and Tibetan spas (despite the Ba Guan treatment)
playing Guitar Hero on Playstation 2 (a lot)
video arcades
Sichuan Opera

Eating -

Eating a different dish for almost every meal of my 2.5 weeks in the country (and enjoying them all).

My favorite was spicy pork dumplings. Most exotic included pig's tail, chicken gizzards, and pig's brain.

Authentic Chinese food is nothing like what I used to in America. It was far more flavorful and spicy (at least in Sichuan).

# of Nights Couchsurfing -

Average Daily Budget -

$55

A Late Last Night In China

I called Charlie after the opera and made my way across town to his apartment. Wu, his roommate, wanted to check out a popular bar/club called 88, and while being in a loud club was not high on my preferred activities, I was more interested in spending a little more time with a friend from home than where that time was spent.

My initial plan was to have a drink or two, and then go back to the hostel for some sleep before taking an early shuttle to the Chengdu airport. In reality, I'm a man of the moment and once we got into the club, and I started to get a kick out of the experience, there was no turning back.

For a Monday night, 88 was packed solid. Charlie said the setup of the club was typical for China. People sat and stood around tables, often having ordered a bottle of liquor and associated mixers. For our table, it was Jack Daniels and Coke. The staff do everything from delivering ornate fruit plates and popcorn to mixing and pouring your drinks. It's almost a bit too much customer service.

Meanwhile, DJ's alternate with live singers. The music being played was truly bad. MC Hammer and Vanilla Ice remixes were heard, and all Charlie and I could do to bear it was continue to drain our glasses. We also started to play a popular Chinese drinking game he had taught me a few nights ago. Each player has 5 dice that he shakes up under a cup. You then guess the number of numbers between the two players, bluffing if you want. Loser drinks. I lost a lot.

Upon returning from the toilets, Charlie told me to bring my camera. Photos weren't allowed inside, but being the rebel that I am, I took them anyways. Charlie pointed to a bunch of anti-Japanese posters on the walls leading to the restrooms. They were clearly racist, and a Chinese guy nearby was quite up front about letting us know the Japanese weren't welcome there. Charlie said these blatant sentiments go back to Japan's invasion during WWII.

After we had our fill of bad music and whiskey drinks, we went to a popular late-night restaurant for noodles before returning to Charlie's apartment. By this time, I had decided to stay up all night since I had to catch a 6am shuttle to the airport anyways. We played Guitar Hero, a video game I had become fascinated with while staying with him. And then we said goodbye, and I caught a taxi back to Sim's in the early morning.

Nepal was awaiting my arrival.

The Sichuan Opera

Among the many activities Charlie was excited to share with me, the Sichuan Opera always seemed to be at the top of the list. It therefore seemed fitting that I would attend a performance on my last night in China.

I had decided to stay at Sim's Cozy Guest House my last two nights as I had gotten to know the place well while arranging my onward transportation. Sim was the personable kind of owner who you'd see walking around all the time. I booked the opera show through the travel desk, and headed off in a shuttle with a group of fellow hostelers.

It turned out to be a Chinese variety show. Performers took turns dancing, singing, using puppets, playing instruments, performing a comedy skit (complete with English subtitles), doing acrobatics, fire breathing, and face changing.

The face changing was part of the finale. People in traditional costumes danced around, flicking their heads up/down or back/forth in an instant, changing the thin painted masks over their face. They did it so quickly, and so frequently, you were left amazed at how they could control the masks so skillfully.

Little Tibet Revisited

On the afternoon of March 22, I decided to revisit the Tibetan neighborhood in Chengdu. I was overdue for a Tibetan meal with butter tea, and was wondering what the scene was like in that area given the escalation of violent protests which had occurred in Tibet and western China.

I was immediately struck by the heavy police presence, yet despite police cars with flashing lights every 50 meters and motorcycle cops buzzing back and forth, it seemed quiet. A giant police bus was parked across the street from the Tibetan restaurant where I ate. On the surface, it seemed like business as usual.

Butter tea is very salty. If I had made it to Tibet, I would've made an effort to acquire a taste for it. Instead, I focused on my yak dumplings and yak meat and green pepper stir fry - what turned out to be far too much food for me. Then again, how often does one get to eat yak?

Hot Pot Adventures

After a fun day at People's Park, I returned back to Charlie's apartment. In the evening, I joined him and his girlfriend for some errands. We went to Nanuna again. One of the owners was at a table and invited us to join him for vodka with chocolate-flavored tea. It was a tasty combination, and we drank quite a bit of it while lounging in the comfortable couches. We ended up sticking around until 2:30 am when they closed the place down.

We'd been meaning to organize a Hot Pot experience for me since I arrived, and the opportunity to get some friends together had finally arrived. Hot Pot is a popular approach to dining in Chengdu (and perhaps all of China?). You sit at a table with a circle cut in the middle and a gas burner. You order regular or spicy oil, and a giant bowl of it is brought out and heated up at your table. You then select the veggies and meats you want to cook in the oil. After you cook the food, you dip it in a small bowl of cooler oil and consume.

Watching the vat of spicy reddish oil heat up was quite a sight. It slowly began to gurgle and bubble. Charlie began to order items from the menu, picking out pig brains for the guest of honor (me). So thoughtful! And I was up for the challenge.

As plates of raw beef, liver, lotus root, cabbage and potato began to arrive, they were dumped into the oil. We decided to leave the pig brain out of the mix in the beginning, as another guy at the table was uneasy at the thought of it cooking in the same oil as his food. The oil was VERY spicy. After a few minutes, it started to feel like my lips were more than just tingling or on fire, they were dancing with heat. It was intense.

As everyone got their fill, I was instructed to put half of the pig brain on a slotted spoon and hold it under the oil for a few minutes. The raw brain looked exactly like what you'd expect, and cooking it did little to change the appearance. When I was told it was done, I plopped it into the small bowl of oil in front of me. Several people took photos with their cell phones as my camera battery had died. If they're out there reading...please send me the photos!!!

So imagine a brain the size of your fist, half sunk in a bowl of oil, sitting in front of you at 3am. Your only tools for consumption are a pair of chopsticks. I began to clip off small pieces of the whitish cerebrum. The consistency was very soft and mushy, and it lacked a distinct flavor. After a few bites, my curiosity was satiated and I threw in the proverbial towel.

The People's Park

I picked up my e-ticket to Kathmandu at Sim's Guest House travel desk and grabbed a taxi to the People's Park in central Chengdu. The Lonely Planet spoke highly of it, and I was surprised by what I found.

For a Thursday afternoon, the park seemed quite crowded. As I started to take photos of some flowers near the entrance gate, a Chinese woman asked for a photo of me. I was happy to oblige, though it still felt funny. Soon after, a 70-year old Chinese man came up to me and confirmed his hunch that I was American. We walked around together for a bit, as I was thankful to speak with a local who knew enough English to carry on a regular conversation. He indicated a lot of the people in the park were retired. He asked for a few photos with me, and I'm embarrassed to admit that I was suspicious of the idea. As he lead me toward a photo vendor, I imagined the photos would be taken, and I'd be expected to pay for them. In reality, he wanted them for himself, and asked for my home address so he could send me one too.

Large groups of men and women were dancing, people were singing full-on karaoke with mics and speakers, performance artists were putting on dancing and singing shows with large audiences gathered around, and of course people were drinking tea and playing card and board games. I found the atmosphere fascinating.

Eventually, I sat down by a pond and ordered "Snow on Green Lake Jasmine Tea." When it arrived, there were white flower petals floating on top of the green tea with the leaves resting at the bottom of the cup. It was quite a sight, and a more apt name could not have been given to it. I continuously refilled the tea cup with the hot water from the provided thermos. A little Chinese girl at the adjacent table befriended me, offering an endless supply of sesame seeds and drool.

It didn't take long for a guy to come over and offer to clean the wax out of my ears. I tried to bargain with him but he wouldn't budge on the price. I caved because I was curious to give it a go. Having a strange man stick metal and small pipe-cleaner type brushes into your ears in public is an odd experience at best. As he was poking around, I realized I was letting this random guy mess with my hearing. One slip and I'd have a punctured eardrum, but it was too late. He used what seemed to be a tuning fork at the end of each ear cleaning.

I'm going to stick with Q-Tips.

My First And Last Ba Guan Treatment

After an afternoon sightseeing at DuFu's cottage, prior home of a famous Chinese poet, I decided to check out a Chinese Tibetan spa near Charlie's apartment building. I only knew it was a spa because I had asked him about the prayer flags over the front entrance a few days earlier.

I took the elevator up to the top floor, and was happy to see a well-decorated, warm and welcoming reception area. The language barrier was a big issue, however having been to a spa previously with Charlie, I had a sense of the routine.

First, they showed me to a locker where I put away all my clothes. I was standing there buck-naked for a moment until the attendant was kind enough to hand me a towel. I spent about 30 minutes soaking in a wooden tub of hot water and Tibetan medicine. The medicine was red, which gave the water a similar tint. Next, I showered and changed into the supplied pajamas. The attendant brought me to a dark room with lounge chairs, each equipped with a remote and small flat screen TV. I flipped around the channels until boredom set in, and then asked for a massage.

I was lead to a room where a Chinese masseuse eventually entered. She pointed at a poster on the wall which was written in Chinese. After a minute or two of being completely confused, I pointed to what I thought was the cheapest option (there were numbers like 30, 60 and 90 listed, but I had no sense of whether it was related to cost or time). The initial massage lasted about an hour. And then....

A cart of round glass jars was wheeled into the room. I'd seen what was about to happen on TV once, so I knew what was coming. First, I received Gua Sha, a treatment whereby a piece of metal is scraped across my back. It didn't hurt, but it did make me wonder what the hell was being done to me. Then, the woman lit cotton balls on fire under the jars, creating smoke which allowed for a vacuum effect when the jar was pressed against my back. My entire back was filled with the jars, and I was left to bear them alone for 10 minutes. It felt strange, like an octopus was slapped on my back, in no hurry to release itself. I decided to grin and bear it.

Eventually the jars were slowly peeled off of me, and when they were all gone, I sat upright. The woman pointed at my left shoulder, and I was horrified to see a giant purple circle. When I got back to my locker to change, I looked in the mirror and was aghast at the results of what was suppose to be a relaxing massage!

Once I got back to Charlie's apartment, I found out that the ancient Chinese medical treatment I had just unknowingly requested was called Ba Guan (aka fire-cupping). It is meant to cleanse the body of toxins and treat certain ailments. And it would take up to a week for the bruising to disappear. In actuality, as I write this more than 3 weeks later, I can still see the outlines of circles on my back and shoulders, making me wonder if I'll never see them completely fade.

You can see a few more photos of the actual process on Ben's Blog.

I'm Back

I've come down from the mountains in the Annapurna region of Nepal after a 10-day trek. It was by far the hardest physical experience of my life, and required quite a bit of mental stamina too. I accomplished my goal of having a fun time trekking around the highest mountain range in the world, though all did not go according to plan.

Over the coming days, I will share my final experiences in China, my flight to Katmandu via Lhasa and Mt. Everest, my rendezvous with trekking buddy Gela in Pokhara, preparing for the trek, and one GIANT outdoor adventure!

I hope you'll continue to join me.

You Can't Always Get What You Want

Through the travel desk at Sim's Guest House, I received a 90% refund on my airfare from Lasa to Katmandu from Air China, though I later read the airline was offering 100% refunds given China closed Tibet to foreigners as a result of the violent protests. Seeking a refund on the train ticket meant heading to the northern train station. I deemed this a job I could manage on my own, though as the taxi sped northward to the outskirts of the city, I started to wonder if I should've asked Charlie to join me.

At one stop, I saw a little girl take a pee just outside a restaurant as her mother watched. Later, Charlie told me about how babies have holes in their bottoms as diapers are not widely used. Sure enough, I saw such a bottom-baring baby a day later.

The square in front of the train station was massive and crowded. There was a sign with "Information" in English yet the woman only laughed toward her coworker when I tried to speak in English. I then tried to go into the terminal, through a security check of tickets, but was turned away as my train didn't depart that day. I looked around in a daze, and eventually saw an English sign posted on another building to the right, the ticketing counters.

Thankfully, it was clearly indicated which counters were for refunds as the lines were massive. I walked around to the appropriate area, and though I was getting into a really, really long line. People were holding out their tickets, and others were checking destinations. It was quite a marketplace for train tickets. When one guy laughed after looking at my ticket, I realized it was probably the least desirable one in the line - most expensive soft sleeper to Lasa leaving the next day. I was content to get an 80% refund off the face value though, so I waited.

After a minute, the same guy who laughed motioned me forward to the real, much shorter line. I had been standing in a mass of people going nowhere. People continued to check my ticket, and as I was 2 people from the refund counter, a woman held out 900 yuen, roughly the amount of my refund. A gentleman speaking a little English in front of me confirmed she wanted to buy it. I was concerned about getting counterfeit money that would be useless. As the line pushed me forward, I took the money and walked off, thanking the girl, who had handed the ticket to a young Chinese guy (perhaps her friend?). They seemed happy.

I returned to Sim's Guest House, ran the money through their counter, sighed when I realized it was legitimate, and booked my direct flight from Chengdu to Katmandu via a short stopover in Lasa (again on Air China). The cost was $457 through the travel desk, which was far cheaper than any other option I found on the airline websites.

Are You A True Playa?

On our way home from the foot massage place, Charlie got a phone call from his friend Eli who was at the Playa Club. He said it was the opening/closing party for the venue which had only be around a few weeks. We had previously talked about the place (and not in a good way), so we headed on over. The extra draw of free drinks didn't hurt! Having read an interview with the owner of the club, we knew it was destined to fail. A white American ex-Republican staffer was trying to bring true hip-hop to Chengdu.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by a virtually empty club, with the exception of Eli, a few Americans (from Washington, DC no less), and a few locals. We drank what felt like tons of Jim Beam and cokes, however I think it was so watered down by ice and Coke that it didn't amount to much. Bottle service at club tables is much more common in Chengdu than in the US where from my perspective, it's reserved for ostentatious people in VIP areas.

Eventually Eli was given the mic and he jumped on stage to rap to the hip-hop being spun (on CD's). Charlie grabbed my camera for a few classic shots of the moment, such as the one above.

Peace out Playa Club!

The Art Of Foot Massages In China

Signs advertising foot massages were all over the streets in Hong Kong, and I remember the Austrian man telling me they were cheaper in China, a hint to hold off at the time. Charlie suggested we get one so we made our way through the rain, across the campus of Sichuan University, to a big building with the look and feel of a hotel. We were lead up a staircase to a waiting room where a couple of plasma TV's were broadcasting German soccer and Hart's War.

As we waited for an open room, I brought up the fact that the waiting room was filled with young guys. Jody responded that the clientÃ¨le is typically men. I still couldn't get over it. In the USA, guys just do not go out for foot massages together, and there were far too many for them all to be getting the other type of massage (if that was on the menu).

We were lead to a room with a small TV and four adjustable beds. We took off our socks and shoes, Charlie grabbed the remote, and soon there were two girls and a guy cleaning and massaging our feet in wooden tubs of water. I was the only person in the room unable to speak Chinese, not that it was necessary. After the water part, we got comfortable under blankets (if we weren't already), and received body massages over our clothes. The whole experience lasted 1.5 hours and cost $6.50. Not a bad way to kill some time.

Street Food And The Hemp House

Charlie makes his living as a DJ which allows him to have a more flexible schedule than your average suit. As a result, he's a big time night owl, staying up until 3...4...5am and not rising the next day until around 4pm. I tend to adapt the habits of the people I'm staying with so it wasn't long before I was on his night-oriented schedule.

A little before midnight on the evening I had consumed gizzards for the first time, he suggested we dine on some food from the street vendors outside his apartment complex. These guys often have their whole setup running on the back of a modified tricycle. It's quite amazing, and Charlie said they can earn A LOT of money given there isn't the kind of overhead restaurants assume. Besides our late night feast, it's common to see locals walking down the street with a variety of food items on a skewer, meats, pineapple, etc. (but still no scorpions).

So we picked out a variety of skewers from one vendor, ordered fried rice from another, and sat down at a make shift table to eat it all. As anyone to Asia can attest, little plastic stools are part of the restaurant and street culture. I know us Westerners can be taller on average than Asians, however I saw what had to be the tiniest plastic stool ever! I snapped the photo with it near a teapot to help give you a sense of scale.

After our meal, we headed to The Hemp House which was quiet given they yield to Cafe Panam(e) (aka the French cafe) on Friday nights. Charlie's old roommate (" coffee"?) bartends there, and he was friendly with the owners (a nice Chinese couple). We hung out there for a bit, and eventually Eli and " Softy"? arrived with a few other English guys. Eli is another American living in Chengdu, trying to earn a living as a Hip Hop artist. He had a paid gig with Softy earlier in the night, and apparently it went quite well. All of the guys were English teachers, a more common vocation for Westerners in China.

Eating Pig's Tail And Chicken Gizzards in Chengdu

I walked down Jinli Lu, which was lined with souvenir and tea shops, restaurants and bars.

Despite the tourist trap feel of the new construction and design, the street's history dated back to the Han Dynasty.

I came across Carol's Restaurant "where East meets West" and grabbed a seat facing the street through an open window.

My stomach wanted a cheeseburger, so I made a compromise with myself by ordering a few Chinese treats to go with it.

The pig's tail arrived as an appetizer, and looked just like a damn pig's tail!

There is no getting around the fact that when you order these exotic items, little is done to dress them up.

A small pile of crushed red peppers accompanied them. I picked up my chopsticks and went to town.

The meaty part of the tail was tender and juicy. It soon became a fun process to manage the meat off the cartilage in the center, which you spit out.

Dipping the tail in the red pepper took the dish to the next level, adding the ubiquitous Sichuan spice and flavor to the experience.

At one point I looked up to see two Chinese girls across the street in front of another restaurant giggling at my culinary adventures. I waved to ensure they knew I saw them.

My burger (always well done) arrived with a skewer of barbecued chicken gizzards.

They looked harmless enough in the low light, and my success with the pig's tail emboldened me (as did the Carlsberg I drank).

After a few bites of burger, I gnawed off a gizzard. It was tough and almost leathery, with a beef-like taste (though distinctly not as tasty as beef).

I didn't like the texture at all, so the other two pieces were left to waste.

A Program Note

Dear readers,

You may have picked up that I schedule posts (about a week) ahead of time. This allows me to enter a new country and get acclimated (financially, physically, emotionally, etc.) before sitting down at a computer.

I've fallen a bit behind, and am a few days from leaving on a 10-14 day trek in the Annapurna Sanctuary of Nepal, amongst the mighty Himalayas. Kathmandu is a trip, with daily power outages at any time, lasting an average of 4 hours. Tomorrow I take the bus west to Pokhara where I'll organize the trek. I've been told Pohkara is far quieter with scenic mountain and lake views. It also has about 8 hours of no electricity per day, and far more expensive internet access. I am currently unable to use my laptop due to some kind of problem I can't figure out with the AC connection.

So, to everyone out there who has been with me since the start, or just joined up recently, I am in a mad rush to write down all my thoughts from China AND capture the initial ones from arriving in Nepal. WOW....would be a good start for Nepal.

Please excuse any inconsistencies with layout, regularity of posts, and lack of imagery in the next few weeks.

Your travel bud,

Dave

Little Tibet

Chengdu's Tibetan neighborhood is located near WuHou Temple, southwest of the city's center. Despite my plans to head toward Tibet itself, I felt a neighborhood visit would serve as a nice appetizer for the main course.

After the taxi dropped me off, and I got my bearings, I began to explore the stores which lined both sides of the street. I found everything fascinating. Buddhist paintings called thangkas were more numerous than I'd ever seen, though the vast majority were cheap prints (I'm holding out for the real thing). Jewelery and prayer beads of varying quality were everywhere. Prayer wheels, tea cups, Buddha statues of all sizes, incense, and reams of prayer flags were the status quo all of a sudden.

My curiosity about what I was seeing lead me to move from store to store at a snail's pace. It felt weird to be browsing the same items as maroon-robed Buddhist monks. Every few stores someone would speak English well enough for me to gather a little bit more information. I had to resist buying everything I saw. Much of it seemed to be made in Nepal, and since I would be going there too, I figured it'd all be cheaper if I waited.

As a break from window shopping, I ducked into a Chinese barber shop where I managed to arrange a shaved head for $1.50 (on par with the cost in Bali). By the time I headed to WuHou Temple, it was closing time. I noticed Jinli Lu, a narrow pedestrian mall adjacent to the temple complex, and headed down it as day gave way to dusk, and red lanterns began to light up overhead.

Spa Life, Giant Pandas, And Movie Night

Chinese Spa

Around 1 am Charlie, Jody and I arrived at a 24-hour spa.

We spent the next four hours swimming around in four pools of varying sizes and temperatures, playing ping-pong in the provided pajamas (which gave us the distinct look we were in an insane asylum), and sweating out the toxins in steam and dry saunas.

A few funny moments occurred. First, as we put our stuff in lockers, Charlie explained to me how Western-style bathing suits were often mistaken for shorts by the Chinese.

A moment after we walked into the pool area, an exchange occurred in Chinese.

Charlie told me they had asked whether we were going to change into bathing suits which cracked us up.

Secondly, before the sauna, Charlie got a cup of water and after a big gulp immediately spit it out, saying it tasted like pool water.

I tried it as well and thought it was more akin to sweat. Once we were in the dry sauna enough to work up a nice sweat, Jody left and went to get a cup of water.

I motioned to Charlie that she was about to drink the bad water as we watched through the glass, expecting her to spit it out too.

To our surprise, she gulped it down, and even refilled her cup!

When we emerged with quizzical looks, she explained the health benefits of drinking saltwater. I'll stick to lemon-lime Gatorade.

Giant Panda Research Base

I had booked a half-day tour to the Giant Panda Research Base through Sim's, and since it left the guest house across town at 8:30 am, I didn't go to sleep after the spa.

The adult pandas were cute while eating their morning bamboo, while the baby pandas playing around were about as adorable as an animal can get.

I paid $7 to hold a Nepalese Red Panda, though he was too busy eating his fruit to look at the camera. It was worth it to feel it's tiny heart beating.

Movie Night

After being up 27 hours, and catching up on a little sleep during the afternoon, I ordered a Sichuan-style pizza from The Mutts Nutts, a fairly new Western-owned pizza place in the area.

It came with tons of peppers and ham, very good!

Charlie has a lot of movies, concerts, and shows on a server, so I picked out Chungking Express since it was set in Hong Kong.

I really enjoyed it, and only afterward found out how well regarded the 1994 movie is among critics.

Wenshu Monastery and Tibet Preparations

With my train arrangements in order, I joined a couple of British girls at the restaurant in Sim's for lunch. They were in the first week of a 6-month trip. Meeting people at the start of their trip always reminds me of how I felt at that time, now almost 4 months ago! Hard to believe I'm racking up the months so quickly. One of my favorite aspects of travel has always been the feeling that each day abroad felt like a week at home. On this trip, the longer I'm gone, the quicker the days seem to go by.

After my lunch of fried rice, I headed toward nearby Wenshu Monastery. The maps I use for navigating the city do not appear to scale, and thus what seems like a short distance is inevitably longer, especially when you factor in wrong turns and backtracking. In the case of finding the monastery, I was glad to take a wrong turn because it lead me along a small park by one of the rivers. Flowers were starting to bloom as winter gave way to spring.

Eventually, I figured out where to go and was surprised to see the Buddhist monastery is actually quite a large compound. I was low on energy and it was getting late in the day so I only managed to duck in a few shops. Of course it only takes a few minutes to buy a nice silk-scroll painting. I also bought a small, cheap thangka despite the obvious signs of poor workmanship. I used my newly acquired negotiating skills on both occasions. I also sat down in a tea shop for a tasting of black and green tea. It was quite a show!

The next day I picked up my tiny train ticket. For all the effort and cost, I expected it to be bigger, but I was told it looked like any other train ticket in China.

I spent the afternoon shopping for warm-weather gear at one of the better outdoor stores I could find (there are tons in Chengdu, though not many carry popular western brands like The North Face and Mountain Hardwear). I picked up a lightweight North Face fleece ($70), a set of Chinese long johns ($35), and a pair of medium weight Smart Wool socks ($25). I probably paid a mark-up of $10 over the price at home for the same socks but my feet deserve the best and the Smart Wool brand has served me well so far.

The girl at the store was very patient and helpful, though it is weird how closely the staff in stores can follow you here. When I would go to put my day pack on the floor to try something on, she'd wave me off and offer to hold it instead.

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