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Experiencing the World Cup in South Africa

This is a guest post by Craig Zabransky. 

The World Cup has been getting interesting, very interesting, and with two options: advance or go home. Last week, for instance, the USA advanced on a dramatic injury-time goal.

Partying before a USA match (the author is wearing the hat).

Two weeks ago, the host nation, South Africa, defeated France 2-1 but even with 4 points, the same as Mexico, they found themselves in third place in the group based on goal differential, (top 2 advance).

The rainbow nation became the first host nation not to make the round of sixteen knock out stage.

It might be disappointing for some, but as someone who traveled across South Africa for a full month prior to the first match, the green and yellow of Bafana Bafana clearly lifted a nation.

Face paint

In Pretoria at the time, I decided to watch the opening match in Hatfield Square.

I thought the local square lined with bars, restaurants, and a freshly installed large viewing screen might create the ideal setting. And thankfully, it did.

Upon my arrival, the energy, excitement, and emotion of the scene nearly caused me to shed a tear of joy.  Seriously.

With a constant Vuvuzela hum, flags waving, and a vivacious crowd of friendly foreigners and locals of all backgrounds, the match began.

The hum never stopped and I believe that sound carried the nation to its result against an arguably more talented squad.

Early in the second half, the square erupted. Elation and celebration swept through when Siphiwe Tshabalala rocketed a shot past the Mexican keeper.  It is he who essentially put South Africa back on the global map. That first goal, still in contention for the goal of the tournament, a rocket, continues to send shivers down my spine when I see the replay.

The game continued, as they often do, but I am not sure anyone surrounding me even watched the next three or four minutes. T

he eruption did not cool. The square was untied, flowing with love for a tournament, and for a nation. It was beautiful.

Unfortunately, the game ended in a tie as Mexico scored a late equalizer and Bafana Bafana's next match was left disappointed before its final game.

The team came up just a little short.

But as we know, it is more than a game, and the team has everything to be proud of decisively defeating last world cup's runner up, being Africa's first host nation, and showing the world how far the country has come in just sixteen years.

The author (left) meeting friends at a pub.

But on the soil of South Africa as a fan of the game, it was magnificent to discuss just the players, plays, and match, without the politics.

And as host of the world's biggest event, the country is leaving a positive impression not just on Africa, but one that extends to all of the other football-loving (or soccer) continents and countries.

Complete Ayoba!

___

About the Author:  Craig Zabransky is a freelance travel writer who appeared of Fox News, Sirius Radio and is published on numerous internet blogs and local publications.

You can find his travel blog at http://stayadventurous.wordpress.com or follow him on twitter @StayAdventurous

 

Friday Flashback: A Very Merry Belgian Christmas

Last-minute holiday shoppers in Brussels.
Last-minute holiday shoppers in Brussels.

Traveling abroad can have its difficult moments, as I found out the first time I spent Christmas away from home....in Christchurch, New Zealand. 

The Kiwis weren't big on public holiday displays, and celebrating Christmas day in a Queenstown hostel when you're feeling anti-social doesn't help.

As my second Christmas of the 'round the world trip approached, I made it a point to be out of Egypt, and in a major European city. 

I picked Brussels because I'd never been there, and it was the cheapest flight from Cairo.

I shopped for warm clothing, and dived into the warm waffles and fries, and stocked up on rich chocolates. 

The evenings were dedicated to sampling the Belgian nightlife with a great group of American guys and Brazilian girls I met in the hostel.

  • Europe Revisited
  • Christmas Eve in Brussels
  • The Christmas Day Pub Crawl (hint: we ended up at an absinthe bar)

But all things being equal, I still prefer to spend Christmas with family.

Scenes from Medellin, Colombia

Medellin, Colombia is a city of 2 million that still feels like a village.  Situated in a valley 1,500 meters above sea level, and surrounded by green mountains, it is blessed with Spring-like weather year round.

With lots of universities, theaters, bars, clubs, and 2 professional soccer teams, there's always something going on, and there are plenty of modern malls to keep shoppers happy.

Green Andean mountains form the perfect backdrop for the San Diego mall (white building).
Green Andean mountains form the perfect backdrop for the San Diego mall (white building).
Looking down on the iconic sculptures of Botero Plaza in downtown Medellin.
Looking down on the iconic sculptures of Botero Plaza in downtown Medellin.
Fans of Independiente Medellin, one of the cities two soccer teams, go wild in the stands.
Fans of Independiente Medellin, one of the cities two soccer teams, go wild in the stands.
The Metrocable connects the main metro line with poor neighborhoods along the mountainside.
The Metrocable connects the main metro line with poor neighborhoods along the mountainside.
The oversized Bandeja Paisa is a popular dish in Antioquia, consisting of: beans, white rice, ground meat, pork rind (chicharron), fried egg, plantains, chorizo, arepa, and avocado.
The oversized Bandeja Paisa is a popular dish in Antioquia, consisting of: beans, white rice, ground meat, pork rind (chicharron), fried egg, plantains, chorizo, arepa, and avocado.
The ominous looking Biblioteca Espana was built on a mountainside to help revitalize a once dangerous neighborhood.
The ominous looking Biblioteca Espana was built on a mountainside to help revitalize a once dangerous neighborhood.
A 25-minute tandem paragliding flight can cost as little as $50 (USD) just outside Medellin.
A 25-minute tandem paragliding flight can cost as little as $50 (USD) just outside Medellin.
A high-energy capoeira performance during Brazil night at Teatro Matacandelas.
A high-energy capoeira performance during Brazil night at Teatro Matacandelas.
Sunset atop Pueblito Paisa, a replica of 20th century traditional Antioquian towns.
Sunset atop Pueblito Paisa, a replica of 20th century traditional Antioquian towns.
Medellin's biggest aquarium (foreground) as seen from the nearby metro platform.
Medellin's biggest aquarium (foreground) as seen from the nearby metro platform.

Dog Meets World: A Photo Diplomacy Project

A Rwandan boy poses with Foto, the symbol of the Dog Meets World project.
A Rwandan boy poses with Foto, the symbol of the Dog Meets World project.

I met Carolyn Lane at February's #DCTravel tweetup, before heading off to Rwanda. 

She introduced myself, and us all, to Dog Meets World, a photo diplomacy project she was developing.

Carolyn explains her vision as follows:

My dream is to establish a movement to photograph the children of the world.

To seek children in their own settings, print their image to keep for a lifetime.

We have replicated Foto, the stuffed dog, to enable scores of world travelers to participate with this intentional project.

The dream of Dog Meets World is to empower travelers to make real connections to people in other cultures, in essence to become photo-diplomats.

When Carolyn explained her vision to me, I instantly identified with it based on my personal travels through such countries as Cambodia and Nepal. 

She offered to loan me a small inkless Polaroid printer for my Rwandan adventure so I could participate. 

In addition, I bought several packets of the special Polaroid paper that must be used. I think $20 afforded me 60 prints.

A Rwandan child shows the adults a photo.
A Rwandan child shows the adults a photo.

Rwanda is full of children, so there was no shortage of opportunities to take photos and print them off right then and there. 

At times, I would be completely surrounded by 20 children, all curious about me, and the camera and printer I was holding above their heads. 

Eventually, I learned the value of crowd control or putting myself in a position that allowed enough space for the printer to work its magic.

For example, when we made stops along the road, kids would often come up to our SUV. 

I'd simply roll down the window, offer Foto, the stuffed dog for them to pose with, and take a picture. 

It took about one minute for a photo to be printed out. The kids seemed to love it.

After I gave one boy or girl a photo, he/she would often show it to the others.

The language barrier was never an issue when it came to these interactions. 

Many of the kids seemed familiar with the fact that they could see themselves in the displays of digital cameras, however, I'm fairly certain, few of the ones I photographed had ever received their own picture.

Polaroid Digital Instant Mobile Printer
Polaroid Digital Instant Mobile Printer

When I returned from the trip, I was able to upload the photos I took to the Dog Meets World website, and Carolyn featured two of them on the blog. 

Overall, I greatly enjoyed the opportunity to photograph Rwanda and it's people while being able to give something back to them in the process.

According to the Dog Meets World website, over 4,000 photos have been given to people across 4 continents.

Recipes: Affordable & Appetizing Food on the Go

Figuring out what to pack is hard enough for a backpacker, and then comes the food problem.

You always want to make sure you have enough to survive, but you don't want to pack too heavy or hard to prepare food items.

Through my hiking trips, I've found it fun to find your food along the trail.

Most often, you will come across berries, flowers, nuts, seeds, or roots that are edible.

The only problem with finding food along the trail is knowing what you are doing!

It can be hazardous if you don't have the proper knowledge.

Just in case, I decided to let you all in on my personal top three items, food items I don't go backpacking without.

These items help to keep my pack light and my wallet full.

1. Ramen Noodles

I know that sounds crazy, but they are easy to pack! Also, it does not matter if they get broken up or moved around.

They'll always be tasty, light to pack, manageable, and easy to prepare!

Pack a few dried veggies and have yourself a Top Ramen Vegetable soup! Yummy!

2. Energy Bars

As expected, these can be a quick fix when you're hungry on the trail.

They also come in a variety of brands, flavors, such as Activity, Meal replacement, Protein, and Endurance.

The only downfall with energy bars is that they can be pretty expensive. I have found this recipe helpful when preparing for a hiking trip.

Trail Bars (makes about 12)

Ingredients:

  • 1 egg
  • ½ cup brown sugar
  • 1 tsp. vanilla or almond extract
  • 1 cup granola
  • ¼ cup raisins, dried cranberries, or dried cherries
  • ¼ cup other dried fruit (any will do, but some may need to be cut into smaller pieces)
  • ½ cup of your favorite nuts
  • 1.69-oz. pkg. M&M's

Directions:

  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter or oil an 8- x 8-inch square pan.
  2. Combine Eggs, Sugar, and Vanilla and mix thoroughly before adding the rest of the ingredients.
  3. Transfer ingredients to the pan and dispense evenly over the bottom. Press down firmly to make the top as flat as possible. Bake for 25 minutes. Cool and cut into bars or squares. Wrap them up, and away you go!

3. Instant Carbs

Two other items that I love to bring along on my backpacking adventures are instant potatoes and instant rice.

The original packaging can be big and bulky, so I would advise you to pour them into a zip lock bag and write the instructions on it with a permanent marker.

Just like Raman noodles, but more natural, they're easy to pack along and only need water to be tasty. If you want to get creative, though, try the recipes below:

Grandparent's Rice Breakfast (serves one)

Ingredients:

  • ⅓ cup dried milk
  • 1 ⅙ cup instant rice
  • ¼ cup raisins
  • ⅛ teaspoon cinnamon
  • 4 teaspoon sugar

Directions:

1. Combine all ingredients in a pan and bring to a boil with the amount of water indicated on the rice package.

Garlic Mashed Potatoes (serves two)

Ingredients:

  • 1 ½ cup potato flakes (Butter Flavored is my favorite)
  • ⅓ cup dried milk
  • 1 TBS garlic salt

Directions:

  1. Mix all ingredients in a plastic bag.
  2. Bring water to boil (according to package), dump the mixture in water, and stir.

I hope you eat well and enjoy your many backpacking adventures this summer!

______

About the Author: Marina Chernyak is a travel lover and has made it through half of Europe in the last three years. Currently, she is managing her Venetian Masks Store at 1001venetianmasks.com.

Friday Flashback: Aswan, Abu Simbel & Feluccas

Feluccas sail in front of Aswan on the Nile River.
Feluccas sail in front of Aswan on the Nile River.

Even though I chose to take a barge-like cruise ship up the Nile River, I still had plenty of time to enjoy felucca rides around Aswan.  As with everything in Egypt, the cost had to be negotiated, and it's best to bring your sense of humor.

  • Aswan, the Dams, and the Temple of Isis at Philae
  • The Sunrise Convoy to Abu Simbel
  • Felucca Rides
  • Couchsurfing Cairo
  • Final Thoughts: Egypt

Introducing Hansen: Briefcase to Backpack in Mexico

Buenos días fellow backpackers! My name is Hansen and I am the newest addition to the GoBackpacking team of contributors. I hail from... well I'm not quite sure. Currently, I am writing on some virgin beaches in Mazatlan. Born and raised in San Diego and educated in Los Angeles, I guess you can call me a Southern Californian. Here are  few points to help you get to know me better, quick:

    Photo Credit: Hansen Hunt

  • I love craft brew and haven't decided if Portland or San Diego is the best beer town; I will have to drink more.
  • I'm tempted to change my middle name to Tequila. It's the finest spirit in the world, and I can teach you all about it.
  • Football was my life for 12 years but recently converted to Ultimate Frisbee; the most international and social sport.
  • Cuban cigars complemented by Cuban mojitos in Tijuana is one of my favorites.
  • Movies really suck me in, so I apologize if I don't respond to your talking when the flick is on.
  • My girlfriend Karen and I have been together for over 5 years, since the first week of college.

The travel bug is deep inside of me, and I have let it out a few times so far. Growing up, I only ever visited Mexico. In college, I continued visiting Mexico but also took off for a semester in Denmark studying International Business. I love Denmark, but will only ever go there during summer from now on (remember, I'm from So Cal). My girlfriend and I drove across the US and up the east coast for a fun summer trip. And now, I have been in Mexico for over 3 months and my plane leaves in 2 weeks to visit San Diego and move up to Portland. Travel is in my blood, and I am just beginning my adventures around the world.

For a short time, I forced that travel bug back down and took a desk job. I know what you're thinking.... dreadful. It took me almost 2 years to realize that and another 2 months to act on it. I booked a 1 peso flight down to Guadalajara, put in my notice, and sold almost everything I owned for some travel cash. I needed to get out and meet new people, places, and cultures. The mundane day-to-day life was killing my free spirit and it was time to let the travel bug back out. Here I am 5 months later writing for one of my favorite blogs, GoBackpacking.com. Of course my family wanted to keep tabs on me, so I naturally started my own travel blog.

My next step is to start my own business creating and selling Sustainable Travel Guides. I studied socially responsible business and have always been passionate about sustainable travel. On GoBackpacking, I plan on sharing my travel stories and tips along with a few funny posts about backpacking. Please feel free to contact me or follow me on a few social networks. This is just the beginning of my adventure, thanks for coming along.

Photo Credit: Hansen Hunt

Follow me on:

Unomos Travel Blog

Twitter

Facebook

YouTube

LinkedIn

The Volcanic City of Cappadocia

Cave homes carved into the mountainside.
Cave homes carved into the mountainside.

Hardly believing what we are seeing is actually real, the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia located in the center of Turkey are an exceptional natural wonder well worth visiting. 

These unique formations were formed due to volcanic eruptions fused with rocks from the erosion of rivers and wind over thousands of years. 

The cave dwellings have been settled since the 2nd Century BC, and many inhabitants still live in cave homes.

City of Goreme
City of Goreme
Hike through Rose Valley
Hike through Rose Valley
Fresco from church carved in a cave in Goreme open air museum.
Fresco from church carved in a cave in Goreme open air museum.
Buckle Church from 10th Century
Buckle Church from 10th Century
A kitchen inside one of the underground caves.
A kitchen inside one of the underground caves.
Natural formations in the shape of a camel.
Natural formations in the shape of a camel.
Cave room at Hotel Kelebek
Cave room at Hotel Kelebek
Sunset from our hotel room in Goreme.
Sunset from our hotel room in Goreme.

____________

About the Photographer: Lauren Becker is a filmmaker turned travel writer who has been lucky enough to travel the world for work and fun.  She enjoys sharing her experiences through the written word, the still photograph, and moving image.  Read more at her personal website, my personal website is www.laurenbecker.net, or follow her on Twitter @filmlb.

#DCTravel 8: Rooftop Party Edition

View of the Capitol from the Newseum rooftop.
View of the Capitol from the Newseum rooftop (Photo by David Lee)

On a beautiful, albeit steamy spring evening in downtown Washington, DC, I exited the Federal Triangle metro station with a backpack full of cold beer. 

Walking east along Pennsylvania Ave, I bumped into Stephanie from Twenty-Something Travel, who was carrying a few bottles of sparkling wine from Trader Joe's. 

It was our last time co-hosting a DC Travel tweetup together before I head for Colombia, and she takes off on her trip around the world in September.

We signed in at the reception area of the Newseum Residences and headed up to Carolyn's (Dog Meets World) apartment. 

She had offered us the use of her building's rooftop terrace for our monthly happy hour, as it delivers perfect views of the Capitol Building.

A large group of Capitol Hill staffers had already begun to set up shop in the area with the best view of the Capitol (you can see them all in the first photo above), so we brought some extra tables and chairs over and worked around them.

DC Travel Tweetup
Back (from left): Amanda, Dave, Stephanie. Front: Carolyn, Sebastien, Julia, Sonia, Marilyn, Kelsey, and Matt. (Photo by Tara)

The photographic firepower in our group was hard to ignore - 4 DSLR's, and me still trying to figure out how to use my Canon S90.

The turnout was one of our best yet -- a mix of regulars and newbies.

  • Michael - Co-founder and co-editor of World Hum.
  • Matt - Landlopers - Keep an eye on one of the DC area's newest travel bloggers! 
  • Kesley - Drifting Focus - Freewheeling nomadic photographer, writer, sidecar motorcyclist, reenactor, and blogger.
  • Sonia - Pulpology, and DC organizer for September's Meet, Plan, Go!
  • Marilyn - Intelligent Travel Blog. Chief Researcher at National Geographic Traveler
  • Julia - All About the Pretty.  Beauty, Travel, & Lifestyle Writer as featured in The Washington Post, The Washingtonian, Texas Monthly & Glamour.
  • Amanda - Global health aficionado, interested in sustainable development solutions, and dealing with a permanent case of wanderlust.
  • Sebastien - Adventurer, Manager @ Interactive Marketing Group 4 Hotels, Travel Analyst, Writer, Blogger, TCK, multicultural, Producer, Lead Editor @ Uptake.  (yeah, he does it all)
  • Tara - superstar photographer (she took most of the photos in this post).

Chocolate cake
Carolyn's homemade chocolate cake. (Photo by Tara)

In Carolyn's infinite wisdom, she made a chocolate cake for my departure. 

If you can't tell from the photo, it was delicious. But before we could enjoy it, Steph and I were asked to give impromptu speeches. 

Though I'd already had a few drinks and may have rambled on with an overly-sentimental tone, it was a small price to pay for the cake.

Thanks again, Carolyn!

Toasting
Toasting the DC Travel community. (Photo by Tara)

Speeches, sweets, and celebrations aside, the rooftop truly was a wonderful spot from which to enjoy a sunset. 

The stark white Capitol Building slowly began to glow orange as the sun went down from behind us.

While I'll be heading for the tropical beaches of Colombia's Caribbean coast in a few weeks, Stephanie will continue to organize monthly DC Travel tweetups. 

Singapore's Top 5 Museums

The Peranakan Museum
The Peranakan Museum

Fashionistas and shopaholics have been trooping to Singapore for years, lured by its many shopping malls that offer every brand and label to fulfill the (shopaholics') hearts' desires.

But while I do enjoy shopping, I don't relish the idea of going to penury to pay for a huge credit card bill. There are other ways of enjoying Singapore.

So instead of heading to the malls, I often go to Singapore's museums.

They are the best in Asia, benefiting not only from the government's vast resources (this wealthy country is competing with Hong Kong to be Asia's art center) and the city's state fondness for organization and efficiency.

That may be boring, but it has nevertheless produced well-curated art spaces.

Singapore's museums are accessible through public transport, air-conditioned, and have wheelchair-accessible facilities, restrooms, and souvenir shops.

Best of all, given that Singapore is one of Asia's most expensive cities, you only need to pay a small amount (about 5 to 10 Singapore dollars, or roughly 4 to 7 U.S. dollars) as an admission fee.

And some days, you can even go to the museums for free!

So when you're in Singapore, try visiting the following places.

1. The Peranakan Museum

The only museum that showcases the arts and culture of a distinct ethnic group shaped and continues to influence Southeast Asia.

The Peranakan, which means "locally-born" in the Malay language, usually refers to the descendants of Chinese traders who settled in the straits Settlements of Singapore, Malacca, and Penang in the 14th century and married Malay women.

The Peranakans also included those who descended from unions between Indian merchants and local women during the 15th century.

This intermarriage produced a fusion of cultures and is reflected in the colorful cuisine, architecture, and fashion that form the multicultural mix of Singapore and Malaysia.

Address: 39 Armenian Street
Opening Hours: Monday - 1 pm to 7 pm/ Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30 am to 7 pm (to 9 pm on Fridays).
Admission Fee: 6 Singapore dollars. On Friday, 3 Singapore dollars.

Terracota sculpture of Mariang Banahaw, a goddess in Philippine folklore, and was made by Filipino artist Lorenzo Soriano. The sculpture is part of the permanent collection of Singapore Art Museum.
Terracotta sculpture of Mariang Banahaw, a goddess in Philippine folklore, by Filipino artist Lorenzo Soriano. 

2. Singapore Art Museum (SAM)

With over 7,000 Southeast Asian pieces of artwork in its permanent collection, SAM stands as the region's repository of visual art.

The collection includes paintings, sculptures, multimedia installations, drawings, prints, and photographs - eye candy for those who can't get enough of modern and contemporary art.

Address: 71 Bras Basah Road
Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday - 10 am to 7 pm / Friday - 10 am to 9 pm.
Admission Fee: 10 Singapore dollars. Free admission on Friday, 6 pm to 9 pm.

3. National Museum of Singapore

This is the custodian of the 11 National Treasures - the most important artifacts in Singapore's history.

It includes the Last Will and Testament of Munshi Abdullah, the Father of Modern Malay literature, the 1930's era Chinese glove puppet theater stage, and a collection of watercolor paintings of local floral and fauna commissioned by William Farquhar, the First Resident of colonial Singapore.

Visitors interested in Singapore's history should also go to the museum's Four Living Galleries, a showcase of artifacts, replicas, pictures, costumes, and even old films documenting Singapore's history of fashion, performing arts, and photography and cuisine.

Address: 93 Stamford Road
Opening Hours: 10 am to 8 pm, daily.
Admission Fee: 10 Singapore dollars.  Free admission from 6 pm to 8 pm, daily.

4. Asian Civilisations Museum (ACM)

This is a must-see for those who want to backpack around Asia.

A visit to the ACM is like going through a crash course on Asian studies.

It is the only museum dedicated to presenting artifacts and collections representing different regions of Asia, including China and the Middle East.

Address: 1 Empress Place
Opening Hours: Monday, 1 pm to 7 pm / Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 7 pm (up to 9 pm on Fridays).
Admission Fee: 8 Singapore dollars.

5. Singapore Philatelic Museum

The museum that appeals to the child in us, as who after all didn't have a stamp collection when they were kids?

The museum's collection includes stamps and archival philatelic material of Singapore from the 1830s to the present day.

The museum also encourages philately in Singapore, with its permanent galleries dedicated to the global history of stamps, and organizes workshops and talks on how stamps chronicle Singapore's history.

Address: 23-B Coleman Street
Opening Hours: Monday, 1 pm to 7 pm/ Tuesday to Sunday - 9 am to 7 pm.
Admission Fee: 5 Singapore dollars. Free admission on New Year's Day, the second day of Chinese New Year, National Day, Hari Raya Puasa, Deepavali, and Christmas Day.

______________

Prime

About the Author:

Prime is a journalist, blogger, and a genuine blue gypsy gal who's into art and food tripping. She blogs at www.gypsygalstales.com, where she offers stories and tips for independent women travelers.  Find her on Twitter @prime_sarmiento

Friday Flashback: Nile Cruise & Temple Tourism

Edfu Temple
Edfu Temple

Once I arrived in Luxor and joined the organized tour, I was insulated from most of the shenanigans and tourist shams (though one might argue I paid into the biggest of them all -- a prepackaged Nile cruise).

I ended up having a great time on the cruise.  My room was very nice, there was plenty of food, I hung out with some friendly Americans and Koreans, and didn't have to worry about how to get from point A to B.

The temples were often overwhelming in their grandeur and scale, while the passing Nile Valley offered wonderful scenery in between.

  • The Valley of the Kings and Luxor Temple
  • Edfu Temple and an Afternoon on the Nile
  • Sunset Cruise to Kom Ombo

Soccer Around the World

2007 marked the height of my soccer fever.  At home, I went to the most DC United games that year, and I fully intended to experience the excitement during my trip around the world.

I caught 3 matches on 3 different continents, and they were all exciting.

In homage to the kickoff of the 2010 Word Cup tomorrow morning, I present my favorite soccer photos from around the world!

When you sit in the Barra Brava fanclub section, expect difficulty seeing the game, smoke bombs, and beer thrown in the air after a DC goal.
When you sit in the Barra Brava fanclub section, expect difficulty seeing the game, smoke bombs, and beer thrown in the air after a DC goal.

Sydney FC vs. Melbourne Victory at Telstra Stadium in Sydney.
Sydney FC vs. Melbourne Victory at Telstra Stadium in Sydney.

The players from FC Barcelona and Atletico Madrid shake hands before the match at Camp Nou, in Barcelona.
The players from FC Barcelona and Atletico Madrid shake hands before the match at Camp Nou, in Barcelona.

An FC Barcelona throw in. My seat was in the first row behind the VIP section and players' benches.
An FC Barcelona throw in. My seat was in the first row behind the VIP section and players' benches.

Lionel Messi (Argentina), one of the world's greatest players, prepares to enter the Atletico Madrid match in the second half.
Lionel Messi (Argentina), one of the world's greatest players, prepares to enter the Atletico Madrid match in the second half.

Colombian police on horseback help maintain order outside Medellin's soccer stadium.
Colombian police on horseback help maintain order outside Medellin's soccer stadium.

The fans of Atletico Nacional, one of Medellin's two professional teams, unfurl a massive banner before the game starts.
The fans of Atletico Nacional, one of Medellin's two professional teams, unfurl a massive banner before the game starts.

First aid workers are clearly visible at Colombian soccer matches.
First aid workers are clearly visible at Colombian soccer matches.

Mountains former a picturesque backdrop to Medellin's soccer stadium, which played host to a 2010 World Cup Qualifier (Colombia vs. Peru).
Mountains former a picturesque backdrop to Medellin's soccer stadium, which played host to a 2010 World Cup Qualifier (Colombia vs. Peru).

My Mind is On A Plane to Cartagena

Relaxing at a friend's finca (country house) in Colombia.
Relaxing at a friend's finca (country house) in Colombia.

I feel a funny sense of deja vu.

In a few weeks, I'll depart Virginia for New York City, just as I did almost two and a half years ago.

And yet again, I won't be coming back before spending extended time overseas. There are a few notable differences this time.

I'll be riding in style on the wi-fi enabled Megabus, versus the old Chinatown service.

To fulfill my technology fetish requirements, I'll be toting a 16-inch HP laptop for blogging, Blackberry Curve for tweeting, Cannon S90, and a Flip HD video camera.

Instead of going out for a low-key dinner with my best friend the night before departure, I'll be networking (ie. partying) my ass off with 300+ travel bloggers and PR reps at the Travel Blog Exchange conference.

And most notably, I not only hope my travel blog(s) will help support me financially, they ARE my financial support.

My business. My livelihood. Talk about pressure.

Maybe that's why, with three weeks still to go before I board a flight to Cartagena, I feel as though my mind has already checked itself out of my body, buckled itself into a seat, and begun to enjoy the passing view of the east coast 30,000 feet below.

Full of anticipation for adventures that lie ahead, it can almost taste the sugary sweetness of a properly mixed caipirinha. 

Feel the cooling effects of a Caribbean breeze blowing off the water. 

Appreciate the ever-present sounds of salsa, merengue, cumbia, reggaeton, and the accordion-heavy vallenato.

And with a big smile, remember the way it feels to once again be on the road.

GoLite's Tumalo Pertex Storm Jacket

Tumalo Pertex® 2.5-Layer Storm Jacket
Tumalo Pertex® 2.5-Layer Storm Jacket

A waterproof jacket is essential backpacker gear, yet it need not weigh you down.

GoLite's Tumalo Storm Jacket is seriously light at 9 ounces (245 grams). 

It includes two waterproof, zippered pockets in the front, a  fixed hood (which I prefer), and two zippers under the armpits which can be opened for ventilation.

The GoLite Storm Jacket kept my upper body dry in a terrential downpour.
The GoLite Storm Jacket kept my upper body dry in a torrential downpour.

But as nice as the jacket looks, the real test is in how dry it can keep you. 

So a few days ago, after hearing the crackle of thunder, I put on the jacket and stepped outside into a torrential downpour. 

Within 60 seconds, my shorts and shoes were soaked. 

The rain was coming down so hard, and the jacket is so thin, that I could feel the pressure of individual rain drops pelting my shoulders.

After a few minutes in the rain, I walked back inside and snapped some photos. 

Below, you can clearly see how well the jacket repels water by the way it is beading on the surface. 

Underneath, my t-shirt was perfectly dry.

Water beading on the jacket's surface.
Water beading on the jacket's surface.

The exterior of the jacket is 100% nylon, while the interior lining is a technology called Pertex Shield DS.

According to GoLite:

Pertex® Shield DS--Pertex® Shield DS combines a technically advanced face fabric with a proprietary bi-component polyurethane coating technology specifically engineered for unlined garments.

This durable and extremely lightweight fabric has exceptional stretch and provides the optimum balance of waterproofness and breathability.

The "dry touch" hydrophilic PU coating reduces internal garment condensation and eliminates the sticky, clammy feel of other coatings.

That's a bit too much tech-talk for me, however one thing I can say for sure is the jacket is as effective at repelling water as any of the past North Face jackets I've owned over the years.

Detail of the cord closures for the hood.
Detail of cord closures for the hood.

There is one feature of the jacket which I'd like to see improved. 

The cord closures for tightening the hood rely on a small piece of foam to keep the cord cinched. 

While I was standing in the heavy rain, I found myself fiddling around with them trying to get the hood tightened. 

I'd rather they sacrifice a few grams of weight and use a plastic widget, versus the foam which I found hard to get a handle on in the rain.

Otherwise, I liked everything about GoLite's Tumalo Storm Jacket - the fit, weight, and effectiveness. 

I'll be depending on it to keep me dry through Colombia's next rainy season.

GoLite gear is available at a variety of outdoor retailers, online and off, including REI.

  • Retails: $150
  • Available sizes:  S-XXL
  • Colors:  Ocean Blue, Rust, Chili Pepper, and Black.
  • GoLite Guarantee:  They will replace any gear with a manufacturing defect for the lifetime of the product, for free.

_____

Disclaimer:  I received a complimentary jacket to test and review on Go Backpacking.

Movie Review: A Map For Saturday

In 2005, Brook Silva-Braga quit his job at HBO in New York City to go backpacking around the world. 

Only Brook wasn't your typical backpacker. 

He had a background in video production and planned to create a documentary about long term travel based on his year-long experience.

I had a sneaking suspicion that watching A Map for Saturday after my own 'round the world trip would be pointless, and sure enough, there were few surprises. 

On the other hand, Brook did a great job of capturing often-overlooked downsides to long term travel, such as burnout and the concept of five-hour (or disposable) friends.

I recognized scenes and cities from many of the countries he visited, including Australia, Thailand, Nepal, India, and a variety of western European countries. 

I even stayed in the same Original Backpackers hostel in Sydney (2008) that's shown early on in the film. 

In that regard, it was like taking a stroll down memory lane.

Brook's adventures did happen to coincide with several noteworthy news stories, which made the documentary more interesting. 

He arrived on beautiful Koh Phi Phi in Thailand a few months after the tsunami, thus capturing the scenes of backpackers helping to clear debris. 

And he was in Nepal at a time when there was greater concern about travelers' safety due to the Maoist resistance.

Rent this movie on Amazon Video if you want:

  • A well-edited, honest, inside look at the modern backpacker lifestyle.
  • A way to kill time keep yourself inspired until you can take your own trip.
  • To reflect on travel experiences you've taken in the past.

Reliving Swingers at The Dresden

If during the course of my travels, I have the chance to visit locations used in movies and TV shows, I'll always do my best to take them. 

Actually, I'll even go out of my way to take them.  It makes for a novel experience, and sometimes that's all it takes.

Maya Bay (The Beach) and James Bond Island (Man With The Golden Gun) in Thailand. Schilthorn (On Her Majesty's Secret Service). Ta Prohm in Cambodia (Tomb Raider).

And on my recent trip to Los Angeles, I was excited to add The Dresden, which lays claim to the infamous Swingers scene above where Vince Vaughn gives Jon Favreau the "you're so money" pep talk.

Dresden
Dresden Restaurant

On my last night in town, after meeting some of Stephanie's friends at a tweetup in the Los Angeles Farmer's Market (where, incidentally, we spotted Fred Savage and his family looking for a late lunch), we headed over to The Dresden.

We entered through the front door and were immediately within the dark lounge where the scene had been shot. 

It was empty, but I was already visualizing Marty and Elaine singing "Staying Alive" and the guys from the movie sitting down in their regular booth. 

I picked it out correctly from amongst them all along the wall, but before I had the chance to suggest we move over there, a group of girls snagged it.

Dave and Summer
Reuniting with Summer, a former coworker

Joining us were Joel from Freedonia Post and Melanie and her husband from Travels With Two. 

One of my former coworkers, Summer, who had made her way across the country while I was busy traveling, also stopped by. 

She was loving California living, and after a few sunny days in the area, I was starting to see the appeal as well.

Later, several of Steph's friends from the tweetup also joined us, and the whole lounge, which looked straight out of the '70s, filled up.

Around 9 pm, Marty and Elaine started to play the piano and sing. While they sound just as kitschy in person now, as they did in Swingers 15 years ago, they are serious musicians. 

In other words, if you go to The Dresden, enjoy their music, but refrain from breaking out in uncontrolled laughter. 

They took a break after their first set, and during the second, Marty gave up the mic to a few guest crooners.

At the end of the night, when I asked for the tab, after multiple Grey Goose and tonics, I was surprised to find they were cheap!  About $6 a piece. 

No wonder, after all these years, The Dresden still packs a good crowd in on a Saturday night.

________

The Dresden Restaurant - 1760 North Vermont Ave, Hollywood, CA

New and Improved: DareMe! eBook

Dare Me! eBookLast Fall, I released a compilation of the 17 crazy dares I received while traveling around the world from 2007-2009.

It started out with an easy one, picking my nose in public, and then quickly ramped up to Andrew Zimmern-style culinary adventures and cage diving with Great White sharks!

I recently enlisted the help of Aly and John (Hop & Jaunt) to give the eBook a makeover.  They did an amazing job, and I'm excited to share the new and improved version with everyone today!

Sign up for Go Backpacking's twice-monthly newsletter and you can download the eBook for free, plus you'll receive links to the best content published here.

If you are already on the mailing list, the June 10th newsletter will include the download link so you can see the updated version too.

Friday Flashback: Cairo, Camels & the Great Pyramids

The Great Pyramids
The Great Pyramids

In 2001, I had plans to visit Egypt however 9/11 disrupted them and I'd had it on the back burner ever since.

In December 2008, I flew Egypt Air from Jo'burg to Cairo.  It was my first visit to a Middle Eastern country, and I was immediately struck by the dreariness of the Nile River as it runs through polluted Cairo.  But I found a room, smoked some sheesha, and walked like an Egyptian in front of the Great Pyramids.

As Paul Theroux said, "travel is only glamorous in retrospect."

  • From Dawn Till Dusk In Cairo (first impressions, and the Antiquities museum)
  • The Great Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza (includes tactics for negotiating a camel ride)
  • The Night Train to Luxor

Food Wars: Fatburger v. 5 Guys

Fatburger
Fatburger

Seeing as how I started my LA trip with the trendy sushi of Katsuya and a shared bottle of champagne at dinner in Malibu, it was only a matter of time before my wallet begged for a better balance.

Cue Fatburger, a California institution with a fast-food culture all its own.

Medium Fatburger meal
Medium Fatburger meal

I ordered a medium cheeseburger meal which came with fries and a soda. 

The burger was certainly better than your typical McDonald's Quarter Pounder, but the fries were average. 

The atmosphere inside the little location we stopped at was quaint. I can't remember the last time I saw a jukebox in a fast-food restaurant.

But I couldn't help but compare my meal to that of the one I had at Five Guys before my DC to LA flight. 

I'd had their wonderful, thick-cut fries before, however, it was the first time I'd ordered a burger. 

It was just as good as Fatburger, which means in a head-to-head competition, Five Guys wins on the merit of its fries.

Fatburger's social media efforts.
Fatburger's social media efforts.

And then something has to be said about Fatburger's totally un-PC approach toward marketing.

A sign next to the menu was a call to action - they need BFFs (Big Fat Friends). 

Fatburger can say they got their start in the 1950s all they want, but the reality of today is that the United States faces an epidemic of obesity, and their messaging rubbed me the wrong way.

What do you think -- savvy marketing or sending the wrong message?

Currency, a Literary Thriller by Zoe Zolbrod

I like to think that there are degrees of travel.

The first is the vacationing kind: one takes a trip to a beautiful place to relax and unwind and enjoy the foreign scenery, then as soon as one becomes comfortable in their new surroundings, one jet-sets right on back to "reality" at home. 

Next is the adventure-seeking variety: one delves somewhat deeper into their international location, most often on an environmental level as they explore the local thrill-seeking tourist or non-tourist activities. 

Third, I believe, is nomadic: one travels by foot or public transportation across a country or continent, stopping briefly into big cities and small towns and experiencing a glimpse of local culture and people.

Backpackers, I believe, usually lie in this one.

And fourth is the expat: An expat has the opportunity to truly familiarize themselves with a faraway place that will one day become home.

They get to know the geography, customs, and form relationships with both the native people and the passers-by.

One of the main characters in Currency, is Robin, a relatable traveler that falls somewhere in between the third and the fourth degree.

She is a young American twenty-something that had gone to and graduated from college, held a few odd jobs, and then decided to venture across Eurasia in pursuit of her dreams.

While in Thailand, she meets Piv, the other main character.

Piv is an English-speaking Thai, equally as motivated and driven as she, that has carved himself somewhat of a touristy career in Bangkok, and before long, the two fall in love.

But what begins as a romantic story of a cross-cultural couple, quickly evolves into a chilling adventure of trafficking, desperation, and trust.

Tangled within a web of international crime, both Robin and Piv struggle for monetary, romantic, and vital survival. And consequences ensue.

Currency is neither a travel memoir nor travel guide, but a literary thriller with enough the seductive power to transport you to a whole new world.

As author Laura van den Berg said of the novel, "From the first page to the last, Zoe Zolbrod's Currency had me hooked.

I loved the boldness of voice, the visceral and intoxicating landscape, the gripping and masterfully woven story.

Currency is a thrilling and unforgettable debut, and Zolbrod is a brilliant new voice that is sure to be with us for many years to come."

No matter where you may be or where you may be going, I highly recommend picking up this recently-released must-read.

I've never experienced anything quite like it.

Photo Essay: Delhi Architecture

The Jama Masjid of Delhi is India's largest mosque.
The Jama Masjid of Delhi is India's largest mosque.

Delhi's architecture is a terrific reflection of India's diversity.

In two days, I crisscrossed the city with a hired driver to ensure I could catch a glimpse of as many of the sights as possible. 

The good news is you can see most of them that quickly, though I'd recommend spending more than a few days to enjoy it more fully.

A view toward the main gate of Jama Masjid from atop a minaret, with Delhi's Red Fort in the distance.
A view toward the main gate of Jama Masjid from atop a minaret, with Delhi's Red Fort in the distance.

The Lahori Gate is one of the two main entrances to Delhi's Red Fort.
The Lahori Gate is one of the two main entrances to Delhi's Red Fort.

A Sikh temple
A Sikh temple

The India Gate in Delhi is one of India's largest war memorials.
The India Gate in Delhi is one of India's largest war memorials.

The entrance to Raj Ghat, a memorial to mark the site of Mahatma Gandhi's cremation in 1948.
The entrance to Raj Ghat, a memorial to mark the site of Mahatma Gandhi's cremation in 1948.

The Bahá'í House of Worship in Delhi is known as the Lotus Temple due to its shape. It is open to people of all faiths.
The Bahá'í House of Worship in Delhi is known as the Lotus Temple due to its shape. It is open to people of all faiths.

Humayun's Tomb
Humayun's Tomb in Delhi is the architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal.

Humayun's Tomb in Delhi is the architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal.
Humayun's Tomb

 

The Griffith Observatory: Los Angeles Landmark

Griffith Observatory
Griffith Observatory

Rebel Without A Cause was required viewing for a college class I took called Music, Marketing, and Youth Culture.

When I tweeted about my trip to Los Angeles and asked for recommendations, Griffith Observatory was mentioned several times. 

I remembered it as a setting from the James Dean movie, which was reason enough for a visit.

Tribute to James Dean with Hollywood sign in distance
Tribute to James Dean with Hollywood sign in the distance

The clear blue skies and sunshine made for great views. 

Inside the observatory, there were plenty of astronomy displays to educate those interested. 

The giant telescope is free to use; however, it doesn't open until sunset. 

You can walk up on the roof, too, but it didn't occur to me at the time.

Related: The McDonald Observatory in Texas

View toward downtown Los Angeles
View toward downtown Los Angeles

The views of downtown LA are good, but the skyline certainly doesn't compare to New York City. 

As we walked around the observatory, a couple took their wedding photos. 

There are a lot of hiking trails in the area, and I imagine it would make for a fun afternoon to use them and then finish up at the observatory for sunset. 

Stargazing through the telescope is optional.

Travel Blog Success: C'est Christine

C'est Christine

Four months ago, on February 1, I launched a unique online course and community called Travel Blog Success.

My goal was to provide the resources necessary for travelers and expats to build high-quality blogs for their adventures.

In some cases, I believed those blogs might even start to pay for their adventures, as they had for mine.

Christine was one of the first to join, and I recently caught up with her to learn more about her experience.

***

Travel Blog Success: How did you hear about Travel Blog Success?

Christine Amorose: I believe that it was a combination of Dave's Twitter updates and a review on the Twenty-Something Travel site.

TBS: Why did you join (ie. what did you hope to get out of the course and community)?

Christine: I had already decided to quit my job and move to France, and I knew that I wanted to blog.

When TBS launched, it just seemed like such serendipitous timing! I hoped to learn how to make a more professional blog, one that could eventually become a money-maker.

TBS: What was your experience level with blogging before joining TBS?

Christine: I did the typical "this is what I did today" name.wordpress.com blog when I was backpacking through Europe for five weeks last summer.

It was basically a quicker, easier way to update my family and friends as to what I was doing each day instead of sending individual emails or Facebook messages.

However, I was familiar with WordPress.org through my job in high-tech social media.

My background in journalism and social media had exposed me to a lot of different types of blogs, and I was reading travel blogs regularly.

TBS: How soon before leaving for Nice did you start going through the course? Was this enough time to go through the material and put it into practice?

Christine: I went through the course a few months before leaving for Nice, so I had plenty of time to go through all the materials.

I bought the whole course at once, so I took my time and read what interested me.

TBS: Which elements (course, blog, forum, audio interviews, social media group) of the community did you find most useful?  Why?

Christine: I found the forums most useful. Even though I wasn't able to apply all of the advice, having people take the time to review and critique my site was amazing.

All your friends and family will say it looks great, but having people look at the site who didn't know me or anything about the blog was really valuable.

The outside point of view showed me what first-time users to my site were seeing, which is hard to come by when you're staring at the site for hours every day.

TBS: What was the best piece of blogging advice you read or received through TBS?

Christine: While I haven't put it into practice yet, the SEO and monetization advice convinced me to buy TBS.

I have a journalism degree, as well as experience in social media and web design, so the writing and design tips were just good reminders of things I already knew.

However, I'm clueless when it comes to creating ad space and improving SEO. While I haven't monetized my site yet--I'm focusing on building readership for the next few months--it's great to have all that information handy and to know what to look for.

TBS: Would you recommend TBS to friends?

Christine: Absolutely! I think it's especially helpful if you haven't had any experience with blogging before since it has a lot of helpful, basic information.

However, the forums are really the most valuable part for me. It's great to have a community of people who are passionate about travel and blogging available for questions, critiques or support.

TBS: Do you have any additional comments or feedback?

Christine: Nope! Money well spent :)

***

You can read about Christine's exciting life on the French Riviera at C'est Christine.

Friday Flashback: Johannesburg & Soweto

The story of Soweto's people is painted on one of the two iconic cooling towers.
The story of Soweto's people is painted on one of the two iconic cooling towers.

When visiting South Africa, it can be tempting to pass on Johannesburg altogether (aka Jo'burg, or Jozi amongst the locals).  It has a reputation of being very dangerous, and lacks the natural beauty of Cape Town.  Still, I found there was more than enough to do to keep me busy for a few days.

Most hostels are in the suburbs, as with any big city, there are legitimate reasons to be concerned about safety. I chose to hire a guide through my hostel, and went on two separate trips around the city with him.  On the second one, his young son even joined us for lunch and a trip atop Africa's tallest building.

  • Touring Soweto and the Apartheid Museum
  • Dare #17 - Completed - Sunday Smiley
  • Johannesburg City Tour
  • Final Thoughts: South Africa and Botswana

Go Backpacking Has A New Editor

Danielle in Istanbul
Danielle in Istanbul

Last Fall, I opened the doors at Go Backpacking to guest posts for the first time, and was truly surprised by the high degree of interest from fellow travelers.

One of the first people to respond was Danielle Alvarez, a then senior studying magazine journalism at Syracuse University.

Danielle has been a regular contributor here for the last 7 months, writing book and restaurant reviews, and sharing her experiences from a year abroad in Chile, Ecuador, and France.  Hopefully you've been enjoying her stories as much as I have.

In my ongoing effort to build Go Backpacking into one of the web's top online travel blogs, I offered Danielle the opportunity to assist in an editorial capacity.  I'm excited to share that she has accepted these new responsibilities.

In addition to writing about her favorite topics, travel and food, she will now be assisting with other content such as sponsored reviews, and more importantly, taking an active role in soliciting, editing, and scheduling guest contributions, as well as helping with promotional efforts (ie. social media).

She also maintains her own blog at Danielle Abroad, and can be found on Twitter @danielleabroad.

Please join me in welcoming Danielle in her new role as Editor!

Food Wars: Sprinkles v. Famous Cupcakes

A colorful display at Famous Cupcakes.
A colorful display at Famous Cupcakes.

While I was traveling around the world, a cupcake revolution was occurring in the United States. 

I didn't become aware of the new sugary movement until I returned home last Summer. 

By then, the Washington, DC area already boasted something crazy like 30 different shops dedicated to...cupcakes. Seriously.

Don't get me wrong. I love pastry and chocolate shops. 

They played a big part in why I visited Belgium, Switzerland, and France. But I grew up eating cupcakes. They were the norm. 

Mom would buy a box of six at the supermarket for a few bucks. Simple.

When I returned home, and the DC foodies on Twitter were all abuzz about their favorite local cupcakeries, well, I had to investigate first hand. 

Before the Rwanda trip, I went to Cupcakes Actually near my local REI store in Fairfax, VA. 

I picked out two, including Actually Dipped Peanut Butter, which was described as "ultra moist devil's food cupcake topped with our creamy peanut butter icing then dipped in our decadent chocolate fudge."

One bite, and I knew these weren't the same mass-produced cupcakes I grew up with.

Chocolate coconut cupcake
Chocolate coconut cupcake

So when Stephanie (@AdventureGirl) was showing me around Beverly Hills last month and mentioned Kim Kardashian had a cupcake shop, I felt the need to compare the west coast offerings with the ones I'd had back home.

On a sunny Friday morning, just before heading to lunch, we stopped in Famous Cupcakes so I could sample the offerings. 

It was the most spacious interior I've seen yet for a cupcake shop. 

There was plenty of room for people to sit down and enjoy their cupcakes, though it was empty at the time. 

Given it wasn't even noon on a weekday, I can't hold that against them.

I opted for the Chocolate Coconut, missing the fact that there was whipped cream inside the cake portion, in addition to the frosting on the top. 

It was rich but a bit too much sugar for me. 

I realized then that I prefer a solid cake foundation in my cupcakes.  I washed it down with a cold cup of milk.

Total cost?  About $5 -- entirely reasonable for a snack in Beverly Hills.

Sprinkles cupcakes: a few chocolate variations with red velvet in the middle.
Sprinkles cupcakes: a few chocolate variations with red velvet in the middle.

After lunch, Steph wanted to introduce me to the Beverly Hills cupcake institution known as Sprinkles. 

By now, it's probably a little after 2 pm. There was a 10-minute line extending outside the shop. 

Unlike Famous, this spot was tiny, with just a few stools inside for a few customers to sit down and consume their cupcakes on the premises.

I was still very full from my pre-lunch cupcake and lunch itself, but I felt the call of duty. 

We each had a chocolate cupcake and split the Red Velvet (my first). 

I liked them better than the Famous Cupcake, but it was like comparing apples to oranges. 

If I'm going to compare cupcake shops fairly, I"ll need to establish a common denominator, such as Red Velvet which seems to be an option at every shop.

After finishing my chocolate Sprinkles cupcake, I started to feel incredibly full. I felt ill. 

Did I mention I had a slice of cake after lunch too? 

Yea, I'd reached my limit, but I managed a forkful of the Red Velvet before tapping out altogether.

I took a nap before dinner.

Mini cupcakes for your dog.
Mini cupcakes for your dog

Photo Essay: The Temples of Angkor

Visiting Angkor, a few kilometers outside Siem Reap is a highlight for most visitors to Cambodia and Southeast Asia.

The complex covers a vast area, however, there are three main temples everyone visits: Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm.

Heading to Angkor Wat? Book a top-rated hostel here

Cambodian children try their best to sell visitors their trinkets.
Cambodian children try their best to sell visitors their trinkets.

The many faces of Bayon temple.
The many faces of Bayon temple.

The mysterious Bayon smile.
The mysterious Bayon smile.

Renting a bicycle to visit the temples is a popular option for visitors.
Renting a bicycle to visit the temples is a popular option for visitors.

Amongst the ruins of Ta Prohm, where scenes from the movie Tomb Raider were filmed.
Amongst the ruins of Ta Prohm, where scenes from the movie Tomb Raider were filmed.

The growth of a large tree slowly takes its toll on the stone walls at Ta Prohm.
The growth of a large tree slowly takes its toll on the stone walls at Ta Prohm.

A pair of visitors take a break from exploring.
A pair of visitors take a break from exploring.

Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat

GoLite's Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody

The Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody by GoLite
The Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody by GoLite

Wherever I go backpacking, I take a hoody (hooded sweatshirt) with me. 

They're perfect for layering, whether you're hiking in the mountains or curled up on planes and buses whose air-conditioning is turned up too high. 

On my trip around the world, I went through 3 cotton hoodies. The downside to all of them was the material -- cotton, which weighs heavy and dries slowly.

When I was recently offered the chance to test and review the Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody by GoLite, the first thing I did was check out the company website. 

As the name implies, GoLite is dedicated to creating lightweight, high-performance apparel and products.

Their motto and contemporary values (Innovate, Sustain, Inspire) resonate with my own, as though they tore a page right out of my personal playbook:

Therefore I GoLite. This is our motto. This is what drives us. Less is more. Less is liberation. Less is our passion. But we didn't invent this philosophy. You did.

You want to get away from all the stuff, the blaring music, the gadgets, the never-ending load of work and the glut of more, more, more. So you go light. You head out on the trail, because you want to experience nature on its own terms.

You value adventure over advertising. Memories over souvenirs. You don't want to clog the planet with more stuff. You just want to have pure, simple, heart-pounding fun.

But let's get back to the hoody because it wasn't quite what I expected. 

Viewing it on their website, I thought it looked like a normal sweatshirt and didn't think much of it.

When it arrived in the mail, however, I was pleasantly surprised by its lightweight (15 ounces/426 grams), and appearance. 

It's made of 100% polyester, and the interior features a Mineraleâ„¢ lined hood.

GoLite describes Minerale as:

Our latest next-to skin fabric innovation utilizes Cocona Mineralea, which has a superior hand that's matched only by its impressive quick-dry capabilities. The natural technology uses microporous particles derived from minerals that improve fabric comfort and performance. It is permanently embedded in the fibers, so it will not wash off or wear out.

I'll admit I haven't gone for a walk in the rain it, but I can vouch for its comfort. 

I wore it on my trip to Los Angeles last month, including on both flights, and during the day I hung out with the rich and famous in Beverly Hills.

Hanging out with James Dean at the Griffith Observatory - Los Angeles, CA
Hanging out with James Dean at the Griffith Observatory - Los Angeles, CA

The hoody is wind resistant, and in addition to the two normal external pockets, there are also two small interior pockets at the bottom of the front side, on either side of the zipper.

These are perfect for carrying a key if you're jogging, passport, extra cash, etc.

It's not as thick, and therefore warm, as the cotton sweatshirts I've used in the past, however, it packs smaller, weighs half as much, and will dry a lot faster.

I'm looking forward to taking GoLite's Sarek Softshell Travel Hoody to Colombia. 

It'll be perfect for breezy nights on the Caribbean coast, and the regular Spring-like weather of Medellin.

Retails: $125

Available sizes:  S-XXL

Colors:  shale blue, dark walnut, moss green, stone, and black.

_____

Disclaimer:  I received a complimentary hoody to test and review on Go Backpacking.

Lunch in Beverly Hills (with The Governator)

Rodeo Drive
Rodeo Drive

On the third day of my Los Angeles trip, Steph and I descended on Beverly Hills. 

She had warned me in advance that Rodeo Drive was only a few blocks long, and sure enough, it all seemed less grandiose in person than what I'd conjured up in my mind over a lifetime of watching it depicted on TV and in the movies.

Posing on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills
Posing on Rodeo Drive

We parked the car and walked along the palm-lined streets; however, there's little to do if you're not there to go shopping. 

And in terms of shopping, the streets were lined with luxury brand boutiques.

One funny moment occurred when one of LA's garish, red double-decker tourist bus came roaring down the street, interrupting the otherwise peaceful, low-key neighborhood.

The Grill on the Alley
The Grill on the Alley

We ate lunch at the Grill on the Alley, which is known as the entertainment industry's restaurant of choice for power lunches. 

The entrance faces into an alley, albeit a clean one as we are in Beverly Hills, after all. We got there early; however, there were no stars to be seen. 

In an attempt to make up for my early-in-the-trip indulgences, I ordered a $20 Caesar salad with chicken. The portion size was obscene (i.e. gigantic), and I only managed to finish half of it.

As we went to exit the restaurant, in walks Bill Rancic, the first winner of The Apprentice. 

I recognized him immediately but wasn't starstruck enough to stop him from using the restroom. 

Besides, as in New York City, you're not supposed to care when you see a celebrity walking around.

Barney Greengrass mosaic
Barney Greengrass mosaic

To give ourselves another shot at spotting a significant celebrity, we walked through Barney's New York and made our way to the rooftop restaurant, Barney Greengrass.

Upon walking up to the host's desk, I looked to my left and immediately noticed The Governator, Arnold Schwarzenegger, sitting at a corner table, facing out over the entire restaurant. He had a dark tan and a commanding presence. 

View from Barney Greengrass
View from Barney Greengrass

We decided to wait for a table on the outdoor terrace, so Steph used the free time to introduce one of the Governor's security guards to Foursquare. 

Meanwhile, I continued to casually peer at him from across the room.

When our table was ready outside, we got a sweet corner spot in the shade, which allowed me to stargaze a little longer through the window. 

Strawberry banana creme chocolate cake
Strawberry banana creme chocolate cake

I ordered a glass of white wine, which seemed apropos for the environment, and a giant slice of "strawberry banana cream chocolate cake" that didn't quite live up to my expectations.

As with Grill on the Alley, I was surprised by the reasonable prices at the restaurant, given the location and stargazing potential. 

The fish options are a popular main course, and they only ran about $20. My slice of cake was $7.50.

Another Paese

 

Paese Wine
Paese Wine

Local cuisine is a perk for any traveler. Whether it was Ceviche in Ecuador, Dolma in Turkey, or Pizza in Italy, pure authenticity made each of my meal experiences that much more enjoyable, and, of course, delicious. When traveling more locally, however, these kinds of dishes are harder to come by.

North of Mexico, most areas have created their own foodie specialties from a medley of European, African, South American, and/or Asian influences.

In the United States, it is sometimes done right, like in New England Clam Chowder or Cajun Shrimp Gumbo, and other times, very wrong, as in most Tex-Mex cooking (please excuse my bias, I just know true Mexican food too well). 

Thankfully, there is also a wealth of global and fusion cuisines across both the U.S. and Canada. I discovered a certain Ontarian gem, for example, on my last visit to Toronto.

Upon entering Paese, my friend and I were treated to two exquisite glasses of wine. Although we did not know it at the time, each bottle had been chosen by their staff sommelier.

Before long, we were generously offered a taste of one of their not-yet-on-the-bar-menu appetizers, it was both familiar yet innovative, and then served a spectacular pizza.

I can say from experience that it is the lightest, and thus best, I've had outside of the Italian border.

And finally, as a thank you to our excellent hosts, my friend and I ordered a chocolate torta and were, once again, blown away by its delectability. (Read more about my serendipitous experience here.)

Of course, I must also comment on the atmosphere, which is as sophisticated and inviting as the food itself.

The main dining room and bar are modernly accented with whites and blacks. These monochromatic colors look especially beautiful against the natural wood tones of the floors and furniture.

Another interior aspect is the walls which are made up of gorgeous yet bare exposed brick that is playfully decorated with warm lights.

Paese Interiors
Paese Interiors

And finally, perhaps the most pleasant surprise of all is the Paese staff.

All were so genuinely good-intentioned and talented. During my visit, I was lucky enough to meet both the owner, Tony Loschiavo, and executive chef, Christopher Palik, along with various others, who were eager to share their creative origins, "Inspired by Italy, Made in Canada," and culinary values: whole, quality ingredients and fresh, sumptuous meals.

Paese executive chef
Paese executive chef

What is Toronto's specialty? I probably still could not tell you. What I can tell you, on the other hand, is this: if you are ever in the Toronto-area and looking for that special "kitchen away from home," Paese is most definitely, it. Enjoy.

Paese Ristorante
333 King Street West
Toronto, ON
416.599.6585

Friday Flashback: Elephants & Camping in Botswana

After two months of traveling in South Africa, from Cape Town to Kruger Park, I still wasn't ready to leave the region. South Africa is the most developed country on the continent, but it is not the best representation of it.

Ice cream truck in Maun.
Ice cream truck in Maun.

Before heading to Egypt, I booked a week-long Okavango Delta safari in Botswana. It required a lot of driving, but it was worth it once we glided through the Delta waters in our mokoros and went on game walks looking for wildlife.

  • Day 1 - Botswana or Bust
  • Day 2 - Reaching Maun
  • Day 3 - Mokoro Rides, A Sunset Game Walk, And Delta Camping
  • Day 4 - The Okavango Delta From Sunrise to Sunset
  • Day 5 - Departing the Delta and My Scenic Flight
  • Day 6 - Elephant Encounters at Elephant Sands

Should I Gamble on Spirit Airlines?

Now that I've shared the big news that I'm heading back to Colombia at the end of June, it's time to book the airfare.

I looked around on individual carriers' sites, and again, found Kayak delivered reliable results.

For a 1-way ticket from New York City to Cartagena, it costs (tax included):

  • $235 on Spirit Airlines (if I want to depart at 6:40 am)
  • $267 on Spirit Airlines (if I want to depart in the evening, and spend a night in Fort Lauderdale airport)
  • $472 on Delta Airlines (if I want to leave at 8 am)

As you can see, the difference between Spirit Air and Delta is $200+.  The choice would seem obvious, even with the $30 international checked baggage fee I'd pay with Spirit Airlines, right?

But there's a twist.

There is a contract dispute happening right now with the Spirit Air pilots, and if it's not resolved by June 12, they're going on strike, which would leave me in limbo (camped out on my brother's couch, to be specific). The news clips indicate the airline hopes to resolve the dispute before June 12, but of course they'd say that so as not to affect ticket sales.

So this is where you, dear readers, enter the picture.

[poll id="56"]

Mokoro Rides in the Okavango Delta

Botswana's Okavango Delta is the world's largest inland delta. 

Traditional wooden canoes, called mokoros, are used as a means to travel from the mainland to the various islands within the Delta. 

They can hold 3-4 people apiece. And unless you want to go for a swim, it's best not to move around much while you're on the water.

During my 3-day camping trip in the Delta, I had the chance to play around with one. 

Pushing the mokoros by pole, and steering them through narrow, weed-free paths is not an easy task. 

Luckily, we had local guides to help, allowing us to sit back, relax, and enjoy the scenery.

Entering the Okavango Delta by mokoro (traditional canoe).
Entering the Okavango Delta by mokoro (traditional canoe).

To avoid prolonged exposure to the intense sun, some visitors use umbrellas.
To avoid prolonged exposure to the intense sun, some visitors use umbrellas.

Wooden mokoros "docked" near our campsite.
Wooden mokoros "docked" near our campsite.

Shuttling to another island in the pre-dawn light.
Shuttling to another island in the pre-dawn light.

Enjoying the quiet tranquility of the Delta.
Enjoying the quiet tranquility of the Delta.

Mokoros are pushed through the shallow water using long poles.
Mokoros are pushed through the shallow water using long poles.

Steering mokoros through thick weeds isn't always an easy affair.
Steering mokoros through thick weeds isn't always an easy affair.

Hoping to spot hippos from our mokoros as the sun sets over the Delta.
Hoping to spot hippos from our mokoros as the sun sets over the Delta.

The Home of Former President Habyarimana

Wreckage from the President's plane can be seen on the other side of the wall.
Wreckage from the President's plane can be seen on the other side of the wall.

On the morning of my last day in Rwanda, I visited the old home of former President Juvenal Hayarimana.  When his plane was shot down over the compound in 1994, killing him and the president of Burundi, it was the spark needed to usher in the genocide.

It was both eery and interesting to walk through a former president's home, especially one who had been assassinated so recently. Photos were not allowed.

While the walls were bare, there were still quite a few large pieces of furniture, including the master bedroom set.  When I walked into the master bathroom, it was spacious with a large jacuzzi tub in one corner, and a toilet on an elevated platform.  Because it was elevated, the toilet had the aire of a throne.  Naturally, I assumed it belonged to the president, however the guide said the space was actually for the first lady, and that the narrow, closet-sized space which adjoined it was for the President.  I'm not kidding, it was just wide enough to fit a toilet on one end and a standard shower/bath on the other, with a sink in the middle!

After touring the interior of the home, we walked out back through the gardens, which included an empty pool, and a tennis court.  I'd heard it was possible to see actual wreckage from the plane, and while again I could not take photos, I was able to see it in person from a small guard tower situated atop one of the compound's walls.

The tour cost no more than a few dollars, and I'd highly recommend it if you have a few hours to spare in Kigali.

The Road to Halabja Part VI - Should I Stay or Should I Go?

This is the next guest post in a series by Kevin Post. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

I went back to what I called the “compound” incredibly stressed about my situation: I couldn’t leave or stay in Iraq.

I was so incredibly hungry, but I wanted to prove to my gracious hosts that I was independent and low-maintenance.

Whenever they asked me if I needed anything, I said to them rather embarrassingly, as if I were hiding something dear to them, that I was fine. The last thing I wanted to do was be an inconvenience to my hosts.

I walked into the living room and watched Al-Jazeera with a group of engineers whom had disgusted looks on their faces because of the horrific incident that took place in Austria.

At first I didn’t understand the Arabic, but the images spoke clearer than words as the pictures explained that a father kept his daughter as a prisoner in the basement, raped, and raised six of her incest children.

I don’t need to go into detail because I believe that all of us remember where we were that day when we heard that disturbing story.

Within a few minutes the topic changed from disturbing news to politics because of the opportunity to speak with the American in the room.

We discussed Sunni-Shi’a tensions, Arab-Kurdish tensions, U.S.-Iraqi tensions, why the U.S. supports Zionism and so on.

This is the first time I have ever had a political discussion with Turks, Kurds, and Iraqi-Arabs all in the same room and it was rather passionate to say the least.

I learned more in that 30-minute conversation than I ever learned inside of a classroom back home. I should have written a thesis.

An Arab civil engineer who participated with the political discussions seemed impressed by my points of view and invited me to his home in Baghdad, which was so tempting that to this day I ask myself if I made the right decision by not going with him.

Traveling to Baghdad by invitation would have been significant but I painfully declined.

He traveled back and forth from Arbil to Baghdad only once a week, and I only had a 10-day visa.

Even if I extended the visa, Baghdad was extremely dangerous for me considering I didn’t have permission to be there, no one back home would have known I was there, and my travel insurance wouldn’t have covered me if something happened.

Out of all the reasons not to go, the primary reason for not venturing into a hot zone was my fear of encountering my country’s military; to be completely honest, it is what I feared the most.

I had recurring thoughts of interrogation and weeks being detained without the ability to communicate with my parents.

Besides all of the reasons above, what could I have done while in Baghdad?

Spend the entire week indoors because of the dangers presented outside?

The man who most interested me was Mahmed, not only because he owned the engineering firm, had interesting political viewpoints and spoke fluent Arabic, Kurdish, Turkish and English, but because he was incredibly kind to me and seemed to know exactly how I felt just by looking at me.

He asked me if I wasokay, as if he knew something was bothering me, so I decided to be honest with him.

I paraphrased everything that the Turkish employee had told me about Iraqi-Kurdistan and told him that I hadn’t eaten very well in several days.

Everyone in the room laughed enthusiastically. ” Why would you listen to a crazy old man like Faruk!?”

They said as the laughs grew in volume. "He’s paranoid! Why didn’t you tell us you haven’t eaten?”

In an instant I felt my stress evaporate. I still didn’t have a penny on me, but I knew that the universe was going to help me achieve what I came to achieve in this part of the world.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

  • Part I - Border Crossing
  • Part II - No Turning Back
  • Part III - Arbil Awaits
  • Part IV - A Bad Time to Arrive
  • Part V - Penniless in Iraq
  • Part VI - Should I Stay or Should I Go
  • Part VII - A True Muslim
  • Part VIII - Iraqi Road Trip
  • Part IX - Iraqi Hitchhikers & A Life of Prayers
  • Part X - Kurdish Farewell
  • Part XI - Smuggler's & Turkey's Loving Embrace

Glimpses of Hollywood, Santa Monica, & Malibu

Sunset Boulevard
Sunset Boulevard

My first full day in Los Angeles began with a ride down Sunset Boulevard. 

I didn't have a burning desire to walk on the Hollywood Walk of Fame before getting to LA, but it was a beautiful day and as good a reason as any to get out of the car and enjoy it.

Stef and I exited an underground parking garage via an escalator, leading us right past an entrance to the Kodak Theatre, where the Academy Awards are held each year. 

Our first view upon walking out of the building was that of Jimmy Kimmel's studio.

Goofing around with Charlie Chaplin and Nacho Libre
Goofing around with Charlie Chaplin and Nacho Libre

Street performers were dressed up as a variety of famous movie and comic characters, and Stef insisted on a photo. I tipped Chaplin and Libre a buck each for their efforts. 

At the time, I resisted having my photo taken like an embarrassed kid with his parents, but now that I'm back on the East Coast, it serves as the perfect reminder of Hollyweird.

Tom Hanks
Tom Hanks on the Hollywood Walk of Fame

Under a bright warm sun, we walked around Grauman's Chinese Theater, looking at the various foot and handprints of the stars on the sidewalk.

My hand was a perfect match with Tom Hanks.

A half-block away was the historic Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, which we took a quick walk through before grabbing coffee in their small bar, 25 Degrees.

Hollywood Hills as seen from Mulholland Drive
Hollywood Hills as seen from Mulholland Drive

Back in the car, we cruised up to Mulholland Drive, which I'll always associate with the David Lynch movie by the same name, though I've never managed to watch the whole thing. 

A small parking area associated with a scenic outlook was packed with tour vans.

We walked up a few stairs, and then down along a dirt trail on the ridge. 

To the right, downtown LA, and the left, my first view of the Hollywood sign. 

That simple white sign on a green hill symbolized not only LA and California but the entire entertainment industry. 

I imagine the sign has served as inspiration for countless struggling actors, models, musicians, and comics who come to LA to make it big.

A lot of the places we visited in the Los Angeles area seemed smaller in person than I'd made them out to be in my mind after a lifetime of television and movie consumption. 

The Hollywood sign was the exception.

See also: Reliving Swingers at The Dresden

Santa Monica Pier
The colorful Santa Monica Pier

Despite the sunshine, when we drove down to Santa Monica in the afternoon, it was downright chilly due to the wind. 

The beaches were bare, save for a few runners. 

The amusement park rides on the Santa Monica pier were closed due to the weather, and any hot lifeguards must have been off duty as well.

Barcelona, Arcachon Bay in France, and now Santa Monica -- I've developed a real knack for visiting famous beaches when they're too cold to be fully appreciated.

After getting our fortunes told by Zoltan on the pier, we sought shelter in the luxurious Casa del Mar hotel lounge. 

Large windows allowed us to continue enjoying the beach views in comfort, and we were soon joined by Maja, who does PR for Swiss Tourism.

Taverna Tony in Malibu
Taverna Tony in Malibu

In the early evening, the three of us motored up the Pacific Coast Highway to meet up with Kristin Luna and Steph's husband for a Greek dinner at Taverna Tony in Malibu. 

We sat outside on a vine and flower-covered patio, but despite being situated near the entrance, no celebs were hanging out that night.

But that was fine because back in Hollywood, I'd experienced my first West Coast celebrity sighting -- the beautiful Jessica Biel.

Why I'm Moving Back to Medellin

Medellin, Colombia
Medellin, Colombia

In a clear sign the American economy is improving, my parents found a buyer for their house. 

It is a moment I've been contemplating since before I'd left for my trip around the world in late 2007.

What would I do if the option of living with them was suddenly off the table?

As much as they wanted to see me get another office job, I stubbornly stuck to a very narrow set of criteria (editorial work for travel websites, based in NYC or Washington, DC). 

After five and a half years of planning my great escape from the corporate world, and another 20 months of traveling and living abroad, the prospect of going back to cubicles, three weeks of vacation per year, office politics, and waking up before 9 am seems ludicrous.

If you're thinking "just grow up and get a job," I understand. 

I've been living an unconventional life for several years, and it'd be natural to suggest it's just a phase or needs to come to a tidy conclusion. 

But, this is where my stubbornness (or naivete) comes into play.

I believe I've reached the tipping point where I can support myself through a personal passion -- travel blogging. 

The only caveat is that I'm not yet able to do so while living in a major US city such as NYC or DC. 

And maybe that's a good thing, as it gives me the perfect opportunity to return to Colombia for the remainder of 2010.

The change in scenery will be bittersweet.

As much as I didn't want to leave Medellin behind last year, I've since settled into daily routines, developed a yoga practice, made new friends, caught up with old ones, and been able to go on dates without an English-Spanish dictionary. 

I will especially miss going out every weekend to my favorite club, The Salsa Room.

After the TBEX (travel blogger) conference from June 26-27 in New York City, I'll board a flight to Cartagena. 

For the first few weeks of July, I'll be soaking up the sun on the tropical beaches of Colombia's Caribbean coast. 

Then, I'll head back to the mountains of Medellin to further grow Go Backpacking, Medellin Living, and Travel Blog Success.

____________

Medellin Travel GuideMy 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

 

 

 

 

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Friday Flashback - Kruger Park Safari

Young male lions
Young male lions

After spending some time in the mountains, I finally made it to Johannesburg, where I promptly booked a tour to Kruger Park for early the next morning.

Once we got in the swing of going on game drives every day, I was having so much fun I extended my trip by an extra day for something silly like an extra $60.

  • How to Spend Less Than 24 Hours In Johannesburg
  • Day 1 - The Long Way to Timbavati Safari Lodge
  • Day 2 - Game Drives in Kruger Park (lots of Lion shots and a Hippo yawning)
  • Day 3 - More Animals and a Night Drive (Chameleon and injured Buffalo)
  • Day 4 - Searching for Lions, Rhinos, and Leopards (my only glimpse of a Black Rhino)
  • Day 5 - Close Encounters of the Buffalo Kind (facing off on foot with an unpredictable bachelor Cape Buffalo)

DCTravel Happy Hour Meets GAP Adventures

Clockwise from bottom left: Carolyn, Bruce, Dave, Stephanie, and Sebastien
Clockwise from bottom left: Carolyn, Bruce, Dave, Stephanie, and Sebastien

May 10, 2010 marked the 6-month anniversary of the DCtravel happy hours which continue to bring together dozens of travelers, bloggers, tweeters, and curious Washington, DC-area residents.

This past Monday's event was held once again at The Big Hunt in Dupont Circle. 

We camped out on the rooftop deck, enjoying a few beers.  As usual, conversation revolved around travel, blogging, and social media.

I speak for everyone when I saw we were excited to have Bruce Poon Tip, founder of GAP Adventures, join us this time. 

As Carolyn later said, he was very generous with his time. 

And, I'd like to add very down to Earth and sincere, which is exactly the impression he gives us on Twitter every day.

Attendees

  • Dave - @rtwdave -- https://gobackpacking.com
  • Stephanie 
  • Bruce Poon Tip - @brucepoontip -- https://www.gadventures.com
  • Carolyn - @dogmeetsworld -- http://www.dogmeetsworld.org
  • Sebastien - @traveladdict 
  • Hunter - @McIntoshTBC -- http://www.theboatcompany.com
  • Matt - @landlopers -- http://www.landlopers.com
  • Daphra 

And once again a special thanks to Melanie @sisarina for the Twitter name tags we continue to enjoy.

Welcome to Hotel Rwanda

In 1994, during the 3-month campaign of genocide in Rwanda, tens of thousands of people sought refuge in churches and hotels around the country.  In the capital city of Kigali, up to a thousand of those people were at the Hotel Des Mille Collines.

The story of the hotel, and the manager at that time, Paul Rusesabagina, formed the basis for the popular movie "Hotel Rwanda" starring Don Cheadle.

Hotel Des Mille Collines (Hotel of a Thousand Hills)
Hotel Des Mille Collines (Hotel of a Thousand Hills)

The hotel lobby.
The hotel lobby.

Inside one of the guest rooms.
Inside one of the guest rooms.

The poolside dining area. Kristin Luna and William, our driver, are sitting to the left.
The poolside dining area. Kristin Luna and William, our driver, are sitting to the left.

Avocados are a popular starter (appetizer) in Rwanda.
Avocados are a popular starter (appetizer) in Rwanda.

Post-lunch tweeting on my BlackBerry Curve.
Post-lunch tweeting on my BlackBerry Curve.

The Rwandan Franc features images of the endangered mountain gorilla.
The Rwandan Franc features images of the endangered mountain gorilla.

The outdoor bar is a popular happy hour spot for tourists and expats in Kigali.
The outdoor bar is a popular happy hour spot for tourists and expats in Kigali.

Katsuya: Los Angeles Sushi To Remember

The infamous crispy rice with spicy tuna.
The infamous crispy rice with spicy tuna.

Before traveling to Los Angeles, I hit up Twitter for recommendations of what to see, do, and eat. 

I received a variety of responses, including several mentions of the crispy rice with spicy tuna. 

In particular, Abby Tegnelia (aka The Jungle Princess) was emphatic that this sushi dish was best enjoyed at Katsuya.

With a 6:20 pm arrival at LAX, I was in the perfect position to make the trendy sushi restaurant my first stop in town.

Creamy rock shrimp
Creamy rock shrimp

Stefanie (aka Adventure Girl) and I rolled up to the Brentwood location around 8 pm. 

While we waited a moment for the hostess to seat us, a Bentley pulled up to the valet. 

I couldn't help but notice there was already one Bentley parked at the curb.  Clearly, we weren't in Virginia anymore.

We were seated at a counter that wrapped around a cooking station in the middle of the restaurant. 

Normally, I wouldn't hesitate to take a photo of the interior, at least on the way out, however, the place was packed and I was suddenly feeling image-conscious. 

I could barely take photos of the food knowing the two women nearest to us smirked at one point. 

Luckily, Stef wasn't one to be embarrassed by my foodie flash photography.

The colorful rainbow roll.
The colorful rainbow roll.

We ordered a bottle of hot sake and crispy rice and spicy tuna, of course. 

The rice had been packed together and then fried until golden brown on the exterior. 

The cool minced tuna sat atop the warm crispy rice, topped with a slice of jalapeno. 

I'd never had sushi quite like it, though one sumptuous bite was enough for me to understand why it'd become so popular in southern California.

Next, Stef ordered the creamy rock shrimp. There's nothing not to like about shrimp doused in seasoned cream.

Our third dish was the rainbow roll, which included pieces of tuna, salmon, shrimp and some kind of white fish. 

Again, it was delicious.  Beyond being beautifully presented, it simply tasted a cut above similar rolls I've had before.

Salmon sashimi with caviar, served on a cucumber crisp.
Salmon sashimi with caviar, served on a cucumber crisp.

We continued to order each plate one by one, which allowed for ample time to catch up since our adventures in Rwanda the month before.

Already having gone over the sushi deep end, I went a step further and ordered the salmon sashimi with caviar.  

It was a challenge to pick up the cucumber slices along with the salmon, so it became a two-part process for each piece. 

And once you've gobbled up the good part, the cucumber slice seemed unnecessary.  But they did make for a nice presentation.

Hot chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream.
Hot chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream.

When it comes to the final course at Asian restaurants, I don't expect much, so it was a surprise to hear the waiter mention hot chocolate cake.

Of all the dishes, this is the one I'm glad we shared the most. 

The molten center makes this dessert a chocolate lover's dream.  You've been warned.

_____________

Katsuya has locations in Brentwood, Glendale, Hollywood, and downtown Los Angeles.  To save a few bucks, check out their happy hour specials.

The Road to Halabja Part V - Penniless in Iraq

This is the next guest post in a series by Kevin Post. If you want to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read more here.

I ran out of money and hadn’t eaten regularly the past few days, and when I did eat, it was very little in 24 hour intervals.

Due to the excitement of traveling to a very foreign destination, I didn’t feel hungry, but I did feel that my body lacked proteins, sugars, carbohydrates, and electrolytes, and it goes without saying that I didn’t have a lot of energy or relief from occasional headaches.

Sometimes when I get excited I completely forget about ‘what-ifs’. In Southeastern Turkey I was having such a phenomenal experience and spent very little money; therefore it didn’t occur to me that I should have withdrawn money before crossing the boarder into Iraq.

I was in the house alone with a Turkish engineer while I used the computer to send some e-mails to my friends back in Turkey. According to the Turkish engineer, it was too dangerous for me to leave the house so I spent the entire day in the house hungry and uneventfully wasting time on Couchsurfing and sending e-mails.

The following morning I was incredibly hungry and decided that Iraq wasn’t a safe place for me to be.

I gave the Turk my Colombian poncho as a gift though I’m not sure why, and excused myself to take a shower. I took my time in the shower because there is noting better than a nice cold shower in a hot, arid climate.

When I got out of the shower I was greeted by several of the Turk’s co-workers, all of whom were Kurds.

They seemed happy to meet me and excited to see an American visiting their homeland. A Kurd that I particularly got along with was Ahmed, who I later found out was the owner of the engineering firm.

I asked them if there was an ATM nearby, and they looked at me as if I were crazy for asking such a question.

Ahmed was nice enough to have his chauffeur take me to the nearest ATM.

None of the ATMs worked, but I enjoyed seeing the majority of the city with my own private driver. I was in Iraq with no money, at a very frightening time with full-on war just kilometers away.

I had to somehow get to the Turkish boarder without a single penny in my pocket.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

  • Part I - Border Crossing
  • Part II - No Turning Back
  • Part III - Arbil Awaits
  • Part IV - A Bad Time to Arrive
  • Part V - Penniless in Iraq
  • Part VI - Should I Stay or Should I Go
  • Part VII - A True Muslim
  • Part VIII - Iraqi Road Trip
  • Part IX - Iraqi Hitchhikers & A Life of Prayers
  • Part X - Kurdish Farewell
  • Part XI - Smuggler's & Turkey's Loving Embrace
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Dave at Ahu Ko Te Riku on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile.

Hi, I'm Dave

Editor in Chief

I've been writing about adventure travel on Go Backpacking since 2007. I've visited 68 countries.

Read more about Dave.

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