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The Golden Circle: Þingvellir Park, Gullfoss Waterfall, and the Geysers

The Continental Divide in Iceland

[T]he Golden Circle in Iceland comprises three noteworthy stops, all of which are related to the local geology: Þingvellir Park and the Continental Divide, Gullfoss Waterfall, and the Geysers.

In terms of popularity, driving the Golden Circle, whether on your own or as part of a group bus tour, is up there with the Blue Lagoon. One way or another, everyone does it.

Meeting point of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates
A pedestrian path splits the divide between the American and Eurasian tectonic plates

Þingvellir Park and the Continental Divide

The first stop outside of Reykjavik is Þingvellir Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which offers one of the world's best spots to view the collision of tectonic plates. Specifically, you'll see where the American and Eurasian plates meet.

Every year, these plates pull apart a few centimeters. Over time, this has resulted in a noticeable rift, with the western, American plate rising up higher than the eastern, Eurasian plate. A paved pedestrian pathway allows visitors to easily walk between the two plates.

Nearby, one can snorkel or dive the Silfra canyon, which lies between the two continental plates as well. This is typically done as a separate trip, though it can be paired up with The Golden Circle, making for a full day excursion.

The best part about this experience is the underwater visibility. The water is extremely clear, and pure, having taken 20 years to filter through the surrounding lava fields from a nearby glacier.

Visibility can stretch up to 80 meters, and while there aren't a lot of fish, you will see some algae underwater. Thick wetsuits are provided by the tour companies, but it can still be a chilly experience.

Gullfoss (Golden Falls) waterfall
Gullfoss (Golden Falls) waterfall

Gullfoss Waterfall

The next stop on the Golden Circle tour is Gullfoss waterfall, which is found along the Hvítá River, and fed by Langjökull glacier.

Iceland's largest waterfall features two sections. The upper section is a series of small steps, which then feed into a huge, 32-meter tall crevice below.

Gullfoss waterfall
Even if it's not raining, you should expect to get a little wet when visiting Gullfoss

The force of the water falling over the second section is so strong that it kicks up a thick mist, ensuring the visitors who choose to walk down the path get wet.

Bring a water-resistant jacket, even if it's sunny out.

Geysir
Geysir

The Geysers

The third major stop on the Golden Circle is a geothermal area featuring a group of geysers.

The Strokkur geyser launches a spray of water up to 30 meters in the air every ten minutes or so, ensuring most visitors have a chance to enjoy the show.

Having visited an even larger area of geysers in northern Chile (outside San Pedro de Atacama) earlier this year, I found this to be the least interesting stop on the tour.

An older, female tourist who didn't even leave the bus remarked that unless it's bigger than Yellowstone's Old Faithful, she wasn't going to check them out.

Geysir spraying water
The Strokkur geyser sprays a column of water in the air every 10 minutes

Overall, I found the Golden Circle tour worth the time and money, if only because it offers one of the most accessible places on Earth to see a continental divide.

_______

What You Need to Know

How Much:  $72 for the half day trip (6 hours)

Where to Book:  Any hostel or hotel, and most travel companies. Half day trips to the Golden Circle can be combined with other activities, like the Blue Lagoon. If you're renting a car, you can go on your own.

What to Bring:  Rain jacket

Why a Holiday Cottage Beats a Hotel Every Time

English cottage

[W]hen holidaying in Britain, I will always choose to stay in a holiday cottage over anything else.

British city-centre hotels offer you a mundane, standardised snapshot of this great region. A chain hotel-room in Glasgow will offer you the exact same experience as a room in Southampton.

To really get the feel of what makes Britain special, the only option is to stay in a holiday cottage.

A hotel in the centre of Leeds will charge you extortionate amounts to raid the mini-bar for a bottle of Evian or a Kit Kat.

Arrive at a rented cottage in North Yorkshire and you more than likely be presented with a hamper showcasing the very best local produce to help you get settled in and become connected with your new surroundings. At least that is what happened to me on my most recent cottage stay.

Luckily for you, more and more people are choosing to erect a 'to let' sign outside of their cottages, so your choice is better now than ever before. A company in Suffolk are now offering 200 properties alone to holiday-goers, whilst many companies are being set up all over the country to help owners let their holiday homes quickly and easily.

I firmly believe that the British countryside is up there with the best in the world, and it is what sets us apart from the majority of our European neighbours.

Whilst all essentially countryside breaks, a stay in the Brecon Beacons, North Yorkshire Moors or Norfolk Broads would all present you with completely different holiday experiences and memories.

If I holiday abroad, I do not want some sanitised, tourist-friendly experience. I want to experience the true essence of the country, see what really makes it tick.

Cities are densely populated areas where convenience and familiarity rule. Hence the proliferation of Tesco, Greggs and WH Smiths on every single British high street. I love the escape from this that the countryside offers.

On a recent stay near Ludlow in Herefordshire, we had a choice of not one but four high-quality farm shops within a 20-minute walk of our cottage.

Each showcased different local delicacies from the award-winning Little Hereford farmhouse cheese to the renowned Ludlow Food Centre's homemade sauces and chutneys. Each shop was clearly a labour of love for the owners and staff, which in turn leads to a rewarding and memorable experience for the customer.

A countryside break may also be easier on the wallet than a city-based equivalent. Although the initial outlay of a cottage may be higher than a hotel, the bonus is you are provided with a fully working kitchen so you are not pressured into eating out every night.

On the Ludlow trip above for example, we only ate out once as we bought so much reasonably priced, delicious produce during the day, we didn't need to eat out!

I admit I used to be skeptical about a holiday spent in a cottage in the countryside, thinking I would miss the hustle-and-bustle of the city. I am happy to admit I am a convert, and such a holiday is now the first thing that springs to mind when booking a break.

_________

This post was written by Jordan, and brought to you by Rentmycottage.com.

Marching Powder Book Review: Inside San Pedro Prison in Bolivia

With less than 24 hours to experience La Paz, the capital of Bolivia, I took to Facebook to see what my friends thought I should see and do in the city. Several were adamant I pay a visit to San Pedro Prison.

Asking follow-up questions led to ambiguous responses, though it was clear I'd have to bribe security guards to get in.

View toward the main entrance of San Pedro prison from the plaza across the street
View toward the main entrance of San Pedro Prison.

San Pedro Prison

The name rang a bell, as I'd heard it in the context of a book called Marching Powder, which had something to do with cocaine and a notorious South American jail.

But I didn't have time to read a book, and I didn't even bother to Google the prison before my plane touched down on one of the world's highest tarmacs (4,000 meters above sea level).

After checking into my hostel for the night, I located San Pedro Plaza on a map and grabbed a taxi. First, we drove up to a scenic viewpoint for a few photos, and then, I directed the driver to take me to San Pedro.

The afternoon was slipping away, and a drizzle was starting to fall from the grey clouds above the city.

I was nervous. I trusted these two friends, as both had visited San Pedro alone. Jason managed to sneak in as a visitor, while I believe Brendan paid a little money.

I was carrying about $20 in Bolivianos, which I thought would be sufficient for your average Bolivian correctional officer. I was also carrying my iPhone and camera, which, in retrospect, was not the brightest idea.

Not having read Marching Powder nor having any experience bribing my way into Latin American prisons, I stood in the plaza wondering what to do next.

The plaza across the street from the prison, by the way, is entirely typical. Aside from four empty guard towers at the corners of the prison, there was nothing immediately obvious to give it away.

San Pedro Prison
San Pedro Prison

A short line of Bolivian visitors were standing outside what appeared to be the main entrance. I didn't have the gall to stand in line with them, so I walked the prison's perimeter, biding my time.

The walls were several stories high, but they looked made of mud. The front facade featured a nice paint job, while the other three sides were unfinished.

By the time I rounded the final corner, nobody had approached me about a tour, so I became more proactive, using my Spanish to ask a guard directly.

Initially, he brushed me off, saying I should return the next day. I responded that I was leaving La Paz in the morning, and this was my only chance.

The guard said something to another one nearby. For a moment, I thought I could pull this off. But the second guard responded that no visitors were allowed after 4 PM.

If he was telling the truth, I was 30 minutes too late. I'd be boarding a bus the following morning for Lima, and I had no idea when I'd return to La Paz.

As I walked away from the prison, I noticed the street running by the front entrance had been closed to traffic. A large garbage truck had backed up to the door.

Marching Powder Book

Marching Powder book cover

A month later, I finally bought Marching Powder: A True Story of Friendship, Cocaine, and South America's Strangest Jail for Kindle. Once I began reading it, I couldn't stop.

The story starts a little slow, as Thomas McFadden, a convicted cocaine trafficker from the UK, tells of how he operated and was ultimately set up by a Bolivian official who took his money and helped ensure he was sent to jail.

And Bolivian jail is where Thomas almost died of starvation and exposure (to cold) within the first few weeks.

Related: World's Most Famous Prisons

He was then transferred to San Pedro Prison, a world unto itself. A world run by the inmates, where the purest cocaine in Bolivia was produced, and the wives and children of inmates often lived as well.

Readers follow along as McFadden learns the rules of prison life under the wings of an inmate who takes a liking to him early on.

The stories aren't too graphic, except the one in chapter 20, which details a mob of inmates killing three convicted rapists. I don't recommend anyone read that chapter.

Witnessing the event seemed to leave McFadden with a case of post-traumatic stress disorder, and because he recounts it in detail, it left me with feelings of unease for several days.

Bribery was the name of the game, and McFadden soon had the Governor of the prison, guards, and many influential people inside on his payroll. Yet, as much money as he spent lining the pockets of officials, it would take him years to get a proper court hearing.

During an outing, where he got to leave the prison under the accompaniment of a guard, he made his way to a nightclub, where he befriended an Israeli girl. Without the option to invite her to a hotel, he asked her back to his prison cell for the night.

It takes a brave girl to spend the night inside a Bolivian prison by choice, but she was soon staying there for days at a time. A romance developed between the two, and months later, she spread the news of life inside San Pedro to other backpackers.

The stories circulated by word of mouth along the South American backpacker circuit. What started with a few of her friends visiting for an informal prison tour eventually led to strangers showing up.

McFadden used the opportunity to build a prison tour business to the envy of rival inmates. As he describes it, the social companionship offered by the backpackers meant much more to him than the money it generated.

His remarkable story was captured and told in the Marching Powder book by a backpacker named Rusty Young, who learned of the prison tours McFadden was offering through a mention in his Lonely Planet guidebook.

The tours had been running long enough to be mentioned in printed guidebooks. McFadden was proud that none of his visitors were ever robbed (which, he explains, would've been the end of his business).

Thanks, in part, to bribing his judges, McFadden was eventually released on December 28, 2000. He returned to England, and the most recent information I found was that he has since been living and working in Tanzania.

Though it's a hit-or-miss proposition, tours of San Pedro are still available. With some planning and a few days of free time, you can probably get in for a visit.

But since my attempt, I've heard of at least one group of tourists who were not allowed to leave before being robbed of their possessions. In other words, bring a little cash and leave the camera and phone at the hostel.

The book Marching Powder offers a fascinating look at life inside a third-world prison, as told by McFadden over his four years and eight months there.

Oktoberfest Guide: How to Crash the World's Largest Party

Over 6 million people visit Munich, Germany, annually for Oktoberfest. This celebration of Bavarian beer and culture has been dubbed the world's largest party based on attendance alone. If you're planning to attend, this Oktoberfest guide will help you make the most of your experience.

Drinking beer at Oktoberfest

Held annually since 1810, the event is known locally as "Wiesen" after the fairgrounds where it is held. When I decided to attend the blogging conference in Costa Brava, Spain, this past September, it was a no-brainer to add a trip to Munich afterward. I began asking questions the week before I arrived. This post is a culmination of the advice I received and my observations.

Table of Contents

  • Oktoberfest Tips
    • Accommodation: Planning vs. Just Showing Up
    • How To Dress, Bavarian Style
    • Outside the Beer Tents: Park and Rides
    • Inside the Beer Tents
    • Oktoberfest Beer
  • How To Crash Oktoberfest in 10 Simple Steps

Oktoberfest Tips

Accommodation: Planning vs. Just Showing Up

There are two distinct approaches to attending Oktoberfest. You can plan everything months to a year in advance or show up and see what happens at the last minute. Both strategies have advantages and disadvantages.

Reserving accommodation at a hotel or hostel and buying tickets to the beer tents months in advance ensures you have more control over your experience. However, it also locks you into those plans because you start making financial and vacation commitments early on.

On the flip side, playing it by ear allows you greater flexibility to change your plans at the last minute should you decide to alter your visit dates or bail out altogether. Whichever approach you prefer will lead you to the same park in Munich with tens of thousands of other partygoers on any given day.

My Experience

I connected with one of my first friends from Medellin, a German couchsurfer, with whom I shared an apartment for three months in 2009. While he was still traveling, his younger brother was living in Munich. Score!

I contacted Maxi, who welcomed me to stay with him for the Oktoberfest. With free accommodation secured, I confirmed my plans and bought a $170 flight from Barcelona on Vueling.

To save money on accommodation, try to find a place to stay through Couchsurfing, or use my approach above to find a host through your network of friends. Alternatively, if you can't find a room within your budget, you can stay outside Munich and commute to the party by train.

How To Dress, Bavarian Style

Lederhosen and dirndls for sale at a Munich train station
Lederhosen and dirndls for sale at a Munich train station

To help set the mood, many Germans dress up in traditional Bavarian clothes. The men wear lederhosen, those green or tan deerskin shorts you see the Von Trapp kids wearing in The Sound of Music. Button-down shirts are either white or have a colorful checkered pattern. Brown shoes or boots are worn, along with thick wool socks.

Women wear dirndls, a cute outfit of peasant origins with a bodice, blouse, skirt, and apron. Typically worn with stockings and flat shoes, some ladies dress them by wearing high heels. An adequately fitted dirndl emphasizes a woman's waist and bust. I also heard women can get special bras to accentuate their cleavage further.

Cheap, single-use lederhosen or dirndls will cost at least $130 (100 euros), while better-quality, custom-tailored outfits can cost $500 or more.

It's common for these outfits to be passed down through the generations. I met one guy in the beer tent whose lederhosen was 70 years old, passed down to him from his grandfather. The higher quality lederhosen of yesteryear is thicker than the modern versions.

My Experience

Girls in drindls
Me and a few Bavarian women wearing dirndls

I was advised early on to invest in lederhosen lest I be the only guy dressed in civilian clothes. But upon arriving in Munich, I was too tired to bother and didn't want to spend the money on an outfit I'd only wear for a few hours.

During my first walk through Oktoberfest, I noticed many people, both men and women, German and foreign, in regular clothes. Of course, there were many people in lederhosen and dirndls, too, but if you wear regular clothes, you'll by no means be the only one.

Maxi lent me one of his white shirts the second time I went, which made me feel a little more Bavarian for the night. My advice? Invest in a dirndl or lederhosen if you want fun photos as a souvenir or a future Halloween costume.

Outside the Beer Tents: Park and Rides

Amusement park rides are a popular draw, all day and night
Amusement park rides are popular day and night.

Oktoberfest is held at Theresienwiese, a gigantic fairground 15 minutes away from the city center (Marienplatz) and easily accessible via several subway stops.

The grounds are mostly a giant amusement park, with several roller coasters, a huge Ferris wheel, and enough rides that spin you around to make anyone dizzy just from watching. You pay for the rides individually, with some costing as much as a liter of beer in the tents ($10 to $12).

Many German food shops also serve pastries, pretzels, and traditional sweets. Among the rides and chaos are 14 large beer tents, each a party unto itself.

If the weather is clear, being outside can be more fun. However, if it's overcast or raining, it can be a miserable experience unless you're sitting in one of the beer tents. Ideally, you'll stay in Munich for several days to skip the days with bad weather.

My Experience

During my first walk through the grounds on a Saturday afternoon, the crowds were thick, and walking at an average pace wasn't always possible. Then, it began to rain, and I retreated to the subway.

I wasn't interested in the rides but hoped to take more photos and enjoy the atmosphere a bit longer. To give you an idea of the food costs, five chocolate-covered strawberries cost me $5.

Inside the Beer Tents

The Hofbräu-Festzelt tent is the largest at Oktoberfest
The Hofbräu-Festzelt tent is the largest at Oktoberfest

The tents, and I use that term loosely because they're very stable, solid structures and are sponsored by various beer companies in Munich.

You don't need a reservation to enter a tent, just as you don't need a ticket to enter the fairgrounds; however, it can be challenging to find a seat during peak days and hours (evenings and weekends).

If you want to plan ahead, you can reserve tickets through the individual tents' websites. As a bonus, reserving tickets in advance may earn you discount coupons for beer and food.

I was happy to find the tents are smoke-free, allowing everyone to breathe easily and leave without smelling like an ashtray at night's end.

A half chicken costs about $12
A half chicken costs about $12

The rotisserie chicken came highly recommended, and when I got my paws on it, I found out why. It's lives up to the hype!

Of course, each tent has its own menu and beers. However, based on its interior decor, live band, and the type of people it attracts, each tent also has its own personality.

For example, the Käfer's Wiesn-Schänke tent attracts a wealthy and famous clientele, while Hofbräu-Festzelt, the largest tent, draws many Americans.

Fun Fact: The Hofbräu-Festzelt can hold about 10,000 people and serves 550,000 liters of beer and 70,000 half-chickens during the 16-day Oktoberfest.

Atmosphere inside the Hofbräu-Festzelt tent on a Sunday evening
The atmosphere inside the Hofbräu-Festzelt tent on a Sunday evening

My Experience

Speaking of Hofbräu-Festzelt, this is the tent where Maxi and I met members of his orchestra, who had reserved a few tables for the night. We walked right in around 6 PM on a Sunday and found them in a numbered room almost immediately.

Squeezing into the middle of a table, I was soon amongst a large group of musically talented Bavarians. I could chat a bit with Maxi and the conductor, who also spoke a little English.

Because getting in and out of the tables required climbing on the benches, I made it a point not to use the bathroom until we returned to his apartment. Maxi later told me the restrooms were on the exact opposite end of the tent from us. Thankfully, I didn't have to bother trekking there.

The servers were friendly. However, they may not return to serve you if you don't tip them. Tips are usually about a dollar, and the beers are rounded to the nearest euro.

Fun Fact: According to Maxi, a waitress in a good location can earn $25,800 (or 20,000 euros) during the festival. They make money from tips and beer sales.

I noticed other working women in dirndls walking the aisles, selling giant pretzels and even roses (there's always someone selling roses, isn't there?).

The live band switched from playing traditional Bavarian tunes to rock, pop, and Top 40 songs as the evening wore on. I distinctly recall "YMCA" by the Village People going over well with the crowd. The rock and pop music, in English, for the most part, got the crowd standing up on their benches dancing.

Oktoberfest Beer

Oktoberfest beer
Beer is served in 1-liter glass mugs.

Oktoberfest is all about beer, and not just any beer can carry the Oktoberfest label. Bavarians take this topic seriously. Only the large breweries based in Munich that brew beer during the Oktoberfest season can call it Oktoberfest beer.

At around 6% alcohol, it's twice as potent as the average American beer. And because it's served in 1-liter glass mugs, you're getting about 33 ounces per serving (or close to three times the volume of a typical 12-ounce American beer). Do the math, and you'll see it's no surprise why the beer has a reputation for being exceptionally strong.

That said, the Bavarians grow up drinking beer from a young age. The minimum age for beer and wine is just 16 in Germany (and 18 for liquor). While festive, the whole scene inside the tent was not nearly as messy as your typical college frat party. Prost (cheers in German) to that!

My Experience

Another tip I received before arriving in Munich was to drink the beer slowly. I followed this one, consuming just two mugs of Oktoberfest beer over about five hours. Each beer cost 9.35 euros, or about $12, which we rounded to 10 euros with tip (or close to $13).

The last call was around 10 PM, as the band played its last songs for the night. The staff began cleaning up by 10:30 PM. I felt good as we exited the tent, but it wasn't until we got back to Maxi's apartment and I lay down that I realized how much of an effect the beer was having on me.

The Löwenbräu tent
The Löwenbräu tent

How To Crash Oktoberfest in 10 Simple Steps

1. Decide you want to go.

2. Book a hotel or hostel months in advance, or ask your friends and extended network for a person you can stay with in Munich.

3. Book your flight(s).

4. As the date draws near, begin putting the word out via social media of your attendance. See who responds, and refine your plans accordingly.

5. Arrive in Munich and settle into your accommodation.

6. (Optional) Buy your traditional Bavarian outfit: lederhosen for men and dirndls for women.

7. Withdraw cash from the ATM per your appetite for beer, chicken, and roller coasters (not necessarily in that order).

8. Take the subway to one of the stops near Theresienwiese or walk from Marienplatz if you stay downtown.

9. Ride the rides and eat the food. Try not to puke on anyone.

10. Bust into a tent, with or without a reservation, and DRINK THE BEER!

For more information, check out the official Oktoberfest website, which offers information in English. 

Coming Soon: The Indonesia Trip

Bali Hotel

On October 4, I'm boarding an Air Qatar flight from Berlin to Jakarta.

The flight, which takes me halfway around the world, marks the beginning of a two-week blogger trip  sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy of the Republic of Indonesia.

The goal of our trip is simple: highlight the amazing experiences available to visitors of this island nation.

I first visited Indonesia in 2008, during my trip around the world.

At the time, I focused on Bali, because so many people painted it as the picture of paradise.

But Bali features a predominantly Hindu population and culture, which is not at all indicative of the world's largest Muslim nation.

I always knew there was more to Indonesia then Bali, and this will be my chance to discover it.

 

Our itinerary focuses on 5 of the country's top attractions (in this order):

1. Tanjung Puting National Park - An ecotourism destination in Borneo, with orangutans!

2. Yogyakarta and Borobudur - Yogyakarta is the center of Javanese fine art and culture, and Borobudur is the world's largest Buddhist temple.

3. Mount Bromo - This 2,300 meter tall volcano is one of the most popular destinations in the country. We'll be leaving the hotel at the painfully early hour of 3 AM to catch the sunrise.

4. Komodo Island - I turned down a friend's invitation to join him on the trip from Gili Trawangan to Komodo Island to see the endangered dragons in 2008, so I'm looking forward to getting there this time. I did see a few at the Bali Zoo, but it's not the same as seeing them in the wild.

5. Bali - Our trip wraps up with a few days in Bali, where I hope to squeeze in a little rest and relaxation, or at least a one hour aromatherapy massage, before flying back to Berlin.

Throughout the trip, I'll be providing live updates via social media. I hope you'll follow along, whichever way you choose!

  • Facebook
  • Twitter (follow us at #Travel2Indonesia)
  • Pinterest
  • Instagram 

I'll also be shooting video, which will be edited into two short movies and put out in November, along with the regular array of written stories and photos.

We've got an exciting group of international bloggers coming together for this trip. Amazingly, I already met five of them at the TBEX conference in Costa Brava last month.

The Blue Lagoon in Iceland

Entrance to The Blue Lagoon

If ever there were a symbol of tourism, it's The Blue Lagoon in Iceland.

When I asked people for sightseeing recommendations in advance of my trip, The Blue Lagoon was always mentioned.

A visit is all but compulsory for every tourist to step off the plane, and I had no plan to be the exception.

The tourism industry in Iceland is so efficient, they've even made it possible to visit the lagoon en route to/from the airport.

This allows you to save money on transportation, though you'll also have to wheel your luggage around (large lockers are available for storage).

Watch the promo video above, and you might get the impression The Blue Lagoon is a relaxing, almost mythical place, with beautiful bikini-clad women drifting through the misty waters.

In reality, the experience is far from a swim in the grotto of the Playboy Mansion.

Upon paying a 35 Euro ($45) entrance fee, you're given a towel and plastic bracelet, which is used to control the lockers and track your food and drink tab.

The men's locker room was clean and well-designed.

There were shower stalls both with and without doors, depending on your tolerance for nudity.

Everyone must wash before entering the lagoon. Soap and shampoo are provided.

According to Adventurous Kate, none of the women's showers have doors (sorry ladies).

Once you leave the locker room, you pass through a small cafe before stepping outside to the lagoon.

The lagoon features a swim up bar (right) serving beers and smoothies
The lagoon features a swim-up bar (right) serving beers and smoothies

My visit occurred on an early September afternoon. The first thing I noticed was the people; there were tons of them.

It was a diverse crowd, too, with people of all ages, races, and sexual orientations.

There were visitors on their own like me, romantic couples, and tour groups as well.

The second thing I noticed was the water, which is a milky blue, and unlike anything I've seen before.

I hung up my towel on the number coinciding with my locker and stepped into the water.

The temperatures vary, with some areas being hotter than others.

Overall, I found it comfortable, especially given the cooler Autumn air, and lack of sun.

I waded around the lagoon, eventually smearing my face with the silica mud, available from buckets placed around the perimeter. The mud is supposed to act as a natural exfoliant.

It's wet when you first put it on, but after a few minutes, it dries. A few minutes after that, you wash it off with the lagoon water.

The water is heated by excess energy from the nearby geothermal power plant
The water is heated by excess energy from the nearby geothermal power plant

One section of the lagoon (pictured above) is dedicated to in-water massages, which take place on foam rafts or wooden benches.

I don't see how that could be any more relaxing than a massage table in a private room, but there were plenty of people getting them done.

Before going to the lagoon, I'd read that the water is heated not from the ground, but the excess energy from a nearby geothermal power plant.

Judging by the number of people there, nobody cares, but the looming plant does remove any pretense that you're in a naturally occurring, hot water lagoon.

The Blue Lagoon in Iceland
The Blue Lagoon

After 20 to 30 minutes in the water, I was feeling a little woozy, so I grabbed a bite to eat in the cafe, along with a free cup of cold Icelandic spring water.

Checking out was as easy as approaching the cashier's counter, and paying my tab.

Before leaving, I highly recommend visiting the observation decks on the second and third floors of the main building.

Doing so gives you the best view of the lagoon and surrounding scenery.

If you want to learn more about hot springs in Iceland, check out this guide by Hekla.com.

_______

What You Need to Know

How Much:  $45 to enter

Website:  http://www.bluelagoon.com

Where to Book:  Any hostel or hotel, and most travel companies. Half-day trips to the Blue Lagoon can be combined with other activities, like the Golden Circle. If you're renting a car, you can go on your own. Otherwise, roundtrip transport on a bus costs about $18.

What to Bring:  A bathing suit, sunglasses, flip-flops. Bring waterproof sunscreen if it's sunny, and you plan to spend an extended time in the lagoon.

Review: TBEX in Costa Brava

Girona

Two weeks ago, travel bloggers from around the world began to congregate in Girona, Spain for the 2012 European TBEX conference.

Here's my review of TBEX in Costa Brava, for those who couldn't make it, and are debating whether to attend in the future.

Table of Contents

  • Location, Location, Location
  • Opening Night Party
  • Keynote #1 - Peter Shankman
  • The Food and Facilities
  • Keynote #2 - Amy Porterfield
  • The Nights:  Hanging Out with Friends
  • The Partying
  • Keynote #3 - Chris Guillebeau
  • Cannonfire, and the Closing Travel Massive Party
  • Final Thoughts

Location, Location, Location

Girona turned out to be the perfect backdrop for a travel blogging conference.

Everyone seemed to agree on at least that much after spending a few days there.

A city of just 100,000, it offered a much more relaxed atmosphere than if the conference were to have been held in nearby Barcelona.

You were also more likely to bump into other bloggers on the street because the historic downtown area is so small.

I hope Blogworld, the new owners of TBEX, take this approach for future conferences as well.

Castle
This castle was the setting for the opening night party, sponsored by Costa Brava tourism

Opening Night Party

The opening night party was held in an f'ing castle! And it was as cool a setting as it sounds.

It didn't hurt that the event was catered by the #2 ranked restaurant in the world. 

I only wish I'd circulated a bit more to try the food. I completely missed the ham room, and the desserts, both of which received rave reviews.

Without trying, I began meeting PR people randomly, including reps for Austria, Germany, and Stockholm.

Only one of these destinations had a speed dating table (Austria, which was a TBEX sponsor), showing me early on that one had to constantly be networking, and not rely on the organized speed dating alone.

Peter Shankman giving his keynote on Friday morning
Peter Shankman giving his keynote on Friday morning

Keynote #1 - Peter Shankman

I've been following Peter Shankman for a few years on Twitter, having previously used the HARO service he started.

CEO, angel investor, skydiver, and adventurer, his speech was heavy on the American pop-culture references, but it also included some practical advice I could relate to on my entrepreneurial journey.

Whether you liked his talk or not, it was clear Blogworld's involvement in TBEX meant higher profile speakers were involved then past conferences.

The last conference I attended was the 2010 TBEX in New York, where the speaking highlight for me was Gary Arndt of Everything Everywhere.

It was a nice change of pace to have speakers outside the travel blogging niche to share their perspectives and lessons learned.

Lunch on the outdoor terrace
Lunch on the outdoor terrace

The Food and Facilities

The catered lunches, each provided by a different restaurant, offered a taste of the local Catalonian cuisine.

Tables were organized around sponsors, and offered the chance to chat with people in smaller groups.

For my first lunch, I sat at the WordPress table and got to be a geek by professing my love for WordPress to some of the mobile app developers.

The conference facilities were spacious and modern.

All the sound equipment worked fine, and there was working Wi-Fi throughout.

The large auditorium was a comfortable venue for the keynote speeches.

There were clear, easy to follow signs throughout the building, making it was easy to find the various panel discussions as well.

The second evening's party was hosted by Expedia, at a restaurant by the beach. Because we arrived after nightfall (via bus), I couldn't see the beach, nor the water.

We mine as well have saved the commuting time, and stayed around Girona.

Amy Porterfield
Amy Porterfield presenting on how to use Facebook

Keynote #2 - Amy Porterfield

The second keynote, on Friday afternoon, was delivered by Amy Porterfield.

She presented a ton of practical tips on how to better leverage Facebook to build a brand and audience.

All of the tips may not have been groundbreaking, but I think everyone who attended learned at least one new way to use Facebook.

Plus, she was an excellent speaker, and clearly comfortable on the big stage.

Hanging out with Kim Mance (left) and Jodi Ettenberg (right)
Hanging out with Kim Mance (left) and Jodi Ettenberg (right) at the River Cafe

The Nights:  Hanging Out with Friends

My main takeaway from attending TBEX in New York City was the ability to connect with people I'd been following online.

This time around, I had a more balanced experience overall, however, I still had a blast hanging out with old friends, and getting to know a new generation of travel bloggers.

I even met several members of Travel Blog Success who said that community was the reason they were attending TBEX! Meeting people is still my #1 reason for attending TBEX.

I think Colm from Hostelworld put it best. To paraphrase, he commented that attending the conference is like hanging out with your mates (friends).

Relationship-building happens a lot faster, and is a lot more fun, in person. I missed these times the last few years I've been in South America.

Bloggers on the prowl
Bloggers on the prowl

The Partying

Another takeaway from TBEX in New York was the bloggers' appetite for booze and partying.

Girona, nor the attendees, didn't disappoint in 2012.

Every evening after dinner, bloggers would congregate at The River Cafe for drinks.

Around midnight to 1 AM, whoever was still awake would roll down the cobblestoned streets to a club for more drinks and dancing.

I only made it to a club one of three nights. It was good fun being out with friends and peers until the wee hours.

Chris Guillebeau talking at TBEX in Costa Brava
Chris Guillebeau talking at TBEX in Costa Brava

Keynote #3 - Chris Guillebeau

The third and final keynote was given by Chris Guillebeau of Art of Non-Conformity late Saturday afternoon.

More of an inspirational talk than the others, I enjoyed hearing him speak for the first time.

He also gave us hardcover copies of his new New York Times Bestseller, The $100 Startup.

I just finished reading it, and it's a good mix of practical business advice and inspirational case studies.

I use the term "studies" loosely, as he doesn't drill down into the nuts and bolts of each story, but rather uses them to highlight his key points.

The re-enactment
Approaching the heart of the re-enactment

Cannonfire, and the Closing Travel Massive Party

Because Chris's keynote unexpectedly happened at the end of Saturday instead of the start, the whole conference ran a little late.

As we dispersed, walking toward the city cathedral for a final ham and beer party thrown by Travel Massive, we ran into a Spanish-French war re-enactment.

This was partly planned, but most of us had no idea what we were in for.

Guns and cannons were going off right next to us, and it was deafening at times.

I heard so many explosions, I was starting to shake. In retrospect, I wish I'd distanced myself from the commotion a lot sooner.

The confusion around this time, as bloggers mixed with the locals there for the show, meant a lot of people didn't make it to the farewell party.

I, for one, ended up at a dinner with about a dozen other bloggers, including Dave and Deb from The Planet D, Matt Long of Landlopers (who now works for TBEX), and Peter Shankman.

Final Thoughts

My 2012 TBEX experience was a vast departure from the party and gossip atmosphere that consumed my 2010 TBEX experience.

It was a more balanced mix of networking opportunities, learning, and hanging out with friends.

The entire conference was well organized, with the minor exception of running us through the re-enactment gauntlet to try and reach the closing party.

I'm excited about Blogworld's committment to TBEX going forward, especially after speaking with the co-founders, Rick and Dave, one on one.

They are super-friendly guys who are clearly committed to growing the pre-eminent conference for travel bloggers.

To my blogging friends, we're in good hands, and I'll see you in Toronto next June!

Play Agent-UK for the Chance to Win A Trip to London

To celebrate the opening of the latest Bond movie, Skyfall, Britain is launching a new online game called Agent-UK.

Click "play" on the video above to help set the mood (the music alone is awesome).

In the game, you're an international spy given 4 missions across Britain. Each mission includes 4 tasks.

To be eligible for the Grand Prize, you must complete all 4 missions (all 16 tasks).

The Grand Prize really is the trip of a lifetime, including:

  • Roundtrip airfare for two people on British Airways
  • 3 nights accommodation at a luxury hotel in London
  • An Aston Martin for the weekend (I'd enter for the chance to win this alone!)
  • Upscale Globe-Trotter luggage
  • Tickets to several sights in London

The game and contest run from October 5, 2012, until 5 PM (GMT) November 2, 2012. The winner will be notified by email within 14 days of the contest's final day.

As always, read the Terms and Conditions, which can be found on the registration form. For example, you must be at least 25 to be eligible to drive the Aston Martin, though the minimum age to enter the contest is just 18.

Registration is quick and easy. Have you got what it takes?

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This article was written by Dave and brought to you by Visit Britain.

Returning to Great Britain

 

Tower Bridge London
Tower Bridge London (photo: Håkan Dahlström)

In less than five weeks, my travels will take me back to Great Britain for the first time in 14 years.

It feels like yesterday that I first approached the white Cliffs of Dover on a hovercraft from Calais, France.

(I may have been a clueless backpacker back then, but at least I knew you don't get to ride a hovercraft very often.)

The next day I took the train to London, where something possessed me to try and see as many musicals as possible in a 4-day span.

Buying restricted view seats, I saved a ton of money and doubled up with matinee showings of Rent and Oklahoma, and evening shows of Les Miserable and Chicago. In between, I hung out in Leicester Square.

On the way back from Ireland, I also took the time to visit Canterbury, which no doubt would've made one of my college English Literature professors quite happy.

Five years earlier, I'd visited Britain for the first time.

It was a two-week family trip that led me there, and along with visits to Bath, Oxford, and Stonehenge, we'd done the touristy things in London. Maybe that's why I felt no pressure to sightsee my second time around.

Returning to London for my third time, I once again have a new set of goals.

On the business end, I will be attending the annual World Travel Market, hosted in London, the first week of November.

On the personal end, I'm excited to catch up with some of my favorite British and Colombian friends I've met traveling the last five years.

And with a little luck, I'll manage to squeeze in another musical for old time's sake.

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This article was brought to you by Visit Britain.

Sagada: An Unbelivable Place in the Philippines

Beautiful Sagada
Beautiful Sagada

[W]hen I got to Sagada, I just couldn't believe I was still in the Philippines.

To get there I took a public jeep, and since I had arrived to the bus station as one of the last few customers, I had to take a seat on the top roof rack. The air and view from the top of the jeep was impressive, but the hard bars on my butt weren't so comfortable.

The jeep wound its way up the steep mountain road that was virtually empty of traffic.

Every now and then we'd pull over on the side of the road to drop someone off, pick up a new customer (who would then join myself and another five or so other guys on the top), and we'd zoom off again.

The higher in elevation we got, the cooler and fresher the air became. Trees changed from tropical low elevation shrubs to pine trees and evergreens sprouting from the side of the steep rocky mountains.

The Big Falls
The Big Falls

Nestled in a small basin surrounded by mountains and beautiful greenery was the gorgeous town of Sagada.

Just from the drive up, I already knew it was going to be one of the most enjoyable places I had ever been.

Even the homes and guest houses were so much different from the rest of the Philippines - built to handle cold weather and each home was stocked with fire wood. I checked into a nice family guest house that was built of wood and gave me that homely feeling of a log cabin.

I still couldn’t believe where I was, the atmosphere was about as opposite of Manila as possible. I felt like I was in the middle of the mountains of North America, but instead I was in the middle of a Pacific island.

One day I hiked to what’s known as the Big Falls. The trail led through a number of beautiful rice farms (similar, but much cooler than Batad), up and down small hills, and through rock passages until the valley opened up and I could feel the spray of the water.

Despite the cold water, there was no way to miss out on a refreshing swim.

Inside the Cave
Inside the Cave

Sagada's cave system is another attractive reason to visit.

Unlike some caves that are specifically set up for tourists with neatly organized walking platforms and permanent lighting fixtures, Sagada's caves were the real deal.

You hire a guide who proceeds to fire up a lantern, and off you go into the breathtaking cave. The gushing water over the sandpaper textured rocks was an unbelievable sight.

Hanging Coffins
Hanging Coffins

Yet another interesting part of visiting Sagada was witnessing the traditional way of dealing with the deceased, in coffins which are hung on the walls of the rocks.

I don't begin to know all the burial customs and practices, but I did notice that many of the coffins were tiny - possibly 4 - 5 feet in length - some even smaller.

My cave guide mentioned that limbs were either bent or broken in order to fit a body in the coffin.

Lemon Meringue Pie
Lemon Meringue Pie

Even the food was completely different in Sagada.

There were cafés that served fresh hot coffee and famous lemon meringue pie. Things I had never imagined eating in the Philippines like blueberry pancakes were also available, and pretty good too.

But perhaps the best thing about Sagada is that is was extremely quiet. There were literally only a handful of other visitors when I was there (maybe it’s become more popular now).

It was the ultimate place to take a breath of fresh air, take quiet walks around town, and read my book with a piece of pie and a cup of coffee in hand.

8 Reasons to Ride the Trans-Siberian Railway

Train from Tomsk to Moscow
Train from Tomsk to Moscow

The idea of traveling to Russia is sweeping across more travelers' itineraries these days, and it seems they either make their major destinations St. Petersburg and Moscow, or they traverse the entire country by riding on the Trans-Siberian or Trans-Mongolian railway.

On my recent Russian adventures, my group took the latter as their trip of choice, and we couldn't have been happier about that decision.

I actually would recommend a train trip of this nature to just about anyone, and here are my reasons why:

Table of Contents

  • 1. Russia is one big expanse of land
  • 2. Trains are comfortable forms of transport
  • 3. The train itself is an experience
  • 4. Purchasing tickets can help the visa process
  • 5. Take the road less traveled
  • 6. Be forced to practice your Russian
  • 7. Bypass the Soviet airplane system
  • 8. The journey is customizable

1. Russia is one big expanse of land

I thought that taking the Indian Pacific across Australia was a long ride, but the Trans-Siberian has that trip doubled.

The Trans-Siberian, from Moscow to Vladivostok, lasts for around six days, and if you choose to go the Trans-Mongolian, you're looking at seven days.

To get around the country and to some of the cities along the way, the train makes it easier and maybe even cheaper.

Pat relaxing on his train bed.
Pat relaxing on his train bed

2. Trains are comfortable forms of transport

As opposed to bus and plane, you are easily able to walk around on trains, have a flat-bed on trains, and even be ready to pop off for fresh air from time to time.

You can read books, watch movies on your laptop, listen to music, socialize, and, best of all: you don't have to deal with checking bags or going through airport security. Win!

3. The train itself is an experience

You've all heard the expression that the journey is half the adventure. For train travel, nothing speaks truer.

On the Trans-Siberian, it's a place where you can ride in former Soviet surroundings, sleep for hours to the soft sounds of Russian conversations, or meet the locals.

Every train is a new adventure story composed of the whole of the characters that occupy your carriage.

From the smell of dried fish to a lingering waft of vodka and cigarettes, Russian trains never bore the foreign tourist.

Watching the scenery pass, either through white birch forests or small and rustic villages, isn't bad either.

train scenery
Watching the train scenery go by

4. Purchasing tickets can help the visa process

One of the daunting obstacles to making the Russian train experience reality is the Russian visa process.

No, it's not the cheapest visa on the market, and it doesn't help that you need to have an itinerary and letter of invitation beforehand.

But, going through a reservation company for the train tickets in advance can secure you a place on the train, and it can get you the information you need to speed along the visa process.

We went through Real Russia for our tickets (disclosure: they provided a discount), and they provided us with free letters of invitation to boot. Easy.

5. Take the road less traveled

The interest in traveling through Russia has indeed increased, but it is still not like a simple trip to Western Europe.

By riding the rails through Russia and beyond, you take the road less traveled, and that is exciting news worth writing home about.

Practice Russian with your cabin mates.
Practice Russian with your cabin mates

6. Be forced to practice your Russian

It all depends on the train you ride, and whether or not you get on and off at different destinations, but the chances are high that you will encounter a few parts of the ride where you can't communicate in English.

This issue became apparent for us when our carriage attendants didn't speak English, and also when the cook in the food carriage didn't speak English.

In these cases, you get the fun challenge of communicating in Russian!

On the bright side, it's like free practice - something that would cost you several dollars per hour in a classroom environment.

7. Bypass the Soviet airplane system

I'm sure statistics are a bit better these days, but it is no lie that the Russian air transport system was riddled with bad experiences some years ago.

Though this may not be the case today, I'm still glad that we were able to go across the country overland instead of by air!

Irkutsk Station through the train window.
Irkutsk Station through the train window

8. The journey is customizable

Many travelers think that a trip on the Trans-Siberian, Trans-Mongolian or the like must be taken in one go.

The idea of 5 to 7 days just sitting on a train is not exactly everyone's version of a holiday, but it doesn't have to be that way.

We used our train ticket booking service to plan a 3-week adventure from Beijing up to St. Petersburg with several stops along the way (like to Olkhon Island) and in various classes of service.

Our group took a very hands-on approach to book these tickets, but it is also possible to hire a company to plan a more luxury adventure with every step thoroughly planned out for you.

The choice and trip are yours to make!

Hiking and Ice Climbing Sólheimajökull Glacier

Arctic Adventures van

[W]alking on crampons, across crackling glacial ice, mine as well be walking on the Moon or Mars.

You may not be weightless, but the scenery is other-worldly.

Ten percent of Iceland is covered by glaciers, with Sólheimajökull Glacier being one of the most frequently visited as a day trip from Reykjavik.

During my recent visit to Iceland, I teamed up with Arctic Adventures for their Blue Ice tour, which promised three solid hours on the glacier.

Glacier parking lot
View of the glacier from the area where we parked

Weather-wise, I'd lucked out with my visits to Franz Joseph Glacier in New Zealand, and Perito Moreno earlier this year, but Iceland decided to present a challenge.

Grey skies were hovering over Reykjavik when Oskar, our glacier guide, picked me up from Kex hostel at 8:30 AM.

Along with a British woman, and a Qatari student living in London, we commenced the two and a half hour drive to the edge of Sólheimajökull Glacier.

Halfway there, we stopped to grab some snacks at a gas station. A packed lunch was provided as part of the tour.

We also made a quick stop at a viewpoint for Eyjafjallajökull volcano, which erupted in 2010, forcing airlines to cancel their flights due to the resulting ash cloud. 

Due to the low visibility, we couldn't see the volcano beyond the farm that stands between it and the road.

A light rain was falling much of the time, and as you can see in the photo above, the views were a bit misty upon our arrival. In the shelter of the van, I donned water-resistant pants and boots that I rented for the day (at the cost of $13 each).

I knew my jacket was good, but the alpaca gloves from Peru weren't going to last long if the rain kept up. 

In Patagonia, I'd paid $50 for waterproof gloves I wore no more than twice, so I decided I could suffer a little on this occasion.

Glacial stream
A stream of water rushes down the glacier

Once we were suited up, Oskar handed out crampons and ice axes, and we began walking across the rocky moraine. 

In 2000, just twelve years earlier, the glacier reached as far as the parking lot. It'd retreated a few hundred meters in that time.

As we stepped onto the glacier, the sound of rushing water could be heard. This wasn't a trickling stream; it was a raging torrent.

And all that water, in liquid form, was a constant reminder of how the ice underneath us was in a continual state of flux.

Volcanic ash darkens Sólheimajökull Glacier
Volcanic ash darkens Sólheimajökull Glacier

Sólheimajökull Glacier is covered in black volcanic ash, which collects in little black pools across the pockmarked surface. 

Looking down at the ice, it's as though one is walking across a landscape of inkwells.

When I first saw pictures of the glacier, I wrote it off on account of how dirty it looked.

Most glaciers are marketed for their pristine white landscapes. Therefore that's the image tourists have in mind when they finally have the opportunity to visit one in person.

The wall on the left is where we did the ice climbing
The wall on the left is where we did the ice climbing

But the more time I spent on Sólheimajökull, the more I began to appreciate its unique landscape.

The ash was a constant reminder of the geologic forces that created our planet, and continue to shape it to this day.

During the Winter, fresh snow covers much of it.

Oskar informed us that the coarser, pebble-sized ash was due to an eruption in the early 20th century, while the finer, silt-like ash was due to the more recent, 2010 explosion of Eyjafjallajökull.

Ice climbing
One of the girls takes to the wall

An hour into our glacier hike, Oskar led us to an icy wall where we'd each have the opportunity to rope up and try our hand at ice climbing. 

I was excited by the prospect of holding ice axes again, which is part of why I chose the Blue Ice tour.

Being the only one with prior ice climbing experience, I volunteered to go first.

I began plunging the curved, technical ice axes into the wall, stepping up one leg at a time.

It didn't take long to reach the carabiner at the top, and signal Oskar that I was ready to come back down.

The others then took their turns, including a British man who joined our tour once we'd reached the glacier parking area.

Misty view from the glacier
Misty view from the glacier

On the way down the glacier, which was a more precarious affair than going up it, we had semi-clear views of the meltwater lagoon.

The rain had let up a little during our ice climbing, but it wasn't long before it was raining harder than when we arrived.

My gloves were so wet and heavy. I had to stop wearing them if I wanted to keep taking photos.

We were all happy to reach the van again, where layers were stripped off, and we could sit back and eat our boxed lunches.

Skógafoss watefall
Skógafoss waterfall

On the return trip to Reykjavik, we stopped at Skógafoss waterfall.

There was a pathway leading to the top of it, which I would've walked if I weren't so waterlogged by that point.

The weather is unpredictable in Iceland, and despite the rain, I had a wonderful time on the glacier.

I'd encourage anyone visiting Iceland to book a glacier hike.

Alternative options include snowmobile trips and super jeep rides if hiking and ice climbing aren't your thing.

__________

Disclosure: My Blue Ice tour was in partnership with Arctic Adventures.

Escaping to Sri Lanka and Meet, Plan, Go

Swimming with Dolphins
Swimming with Dolphins (photo: Dave Rudie)

[I] didn’t plan on going to Sri Lanka.

We’d escaped the chill of our home in the rain forests of Juneau, Alaska and got as far as London before realizing it was nearly as cold and wet there in February.

A friend had suggested checking out ‘bucket shops’, the discount airline ticket agencies in the back pages of Time Out magazine.

At the agency we selected all matter of seats were available over the next two days. We wanted a warm tropical setting and to help us acclimate to this start of 6 months of back-packing, an English-speaking land. The spice islands of Madagascar were rumbling with a revolution so Sri Lanka it was.

At the time flying across the world on a Russian airline seemed thrilling. Dealing with the 24 hour journey was less so. We’d left our winter woolens with friends in London to lighten our packs.

The author (Elaine) boarding a small airplane
The author (Elaine) boarding a small airplane

It didn’t seem like such a good idea when we had to deplane in St. Petersburg via a frozen stairway to a tarmac shuttle and wait in the concourse for hours.

Had we known about Meet, Plan, Go all this would’ve been so much easier.

Being a bit impulsive is fine most of the time, but with more preparation we’d have saved ourselves a lot of angst, expense and perhaps met a few fellow travelers to share their experiences with jet lag and budgeting for a long trip.

That community didn’t exist until Meet, Plan, Go was founded about 5 years ago.

Sherry Ott, one of the co-founders of MPG, was a dissatisfied cubicle dweller when she hatched the plan to escape New York City and explore the world.

During her first year on the road she realized there was no place like home and she didn’t want to be there.

The lure of living on the go was inspiring and she discovered many like-minded nomads but few Americans.

In the intervening six years she’s set up her blog, Otts World and then co-created Meet, Plan, Go in an effort to get more North Americans to take career breaks and enjoy long-term travel.

Today there are over ten cities sharing that mission, all planning a big event on October 16th. Each city is featuring travel experts, authors, bloggers and photographers – all experienced long-term travelers.

There’s inspiration for everyone with panel discussions, opportunities to dig deeper at round table dialogues and other resources.

Several companies are sponsoring gifts and free trips. Hosteling International, Intrepid Travel and TEFL, the ESL academy, will be there. It’s going to be a one-stop shop to help travel dreams come true.

Last year’s attendees have shown that they’re more likely to actually take a big trip once they have the MPG guidelines and community spurring them on.

On my big journey, I could’ve learned about our wintry, Russian layover if I’d asked the right questions, but not about the unscheduled stop in Karachi, Pakistan where I surreptitiously shot pictures of machine gunners cruising the tarmac.

We might have discovered how much easier, cleaner and cheaper it was to stay in guest houses than hotels outside the capital of Colombo. Once we’d found the heat and realized how our blood, thickened from years in chilly climes, would make us comatose in the tropical villages, we ventured up into the mountains and temples of Kandy to acclimate.

With a bit more preparation that transition would’ve been so much easier. There’s no way you can prepare for every eventuality when you travel and I wouldn’t want to try. If the road beckons, you can go, you can make it happen or turn back to the everyday routine.

It’s one of the reasons I’ve taken on hosting the big Meet, Plan, Go night on October 16th in San Diego.

If I can’t be traveling, I love trading stories with adventurers. America needs its lay ambassadors to counter the world’s assumptions based on TV network models, media headlines and to temper our global, military entanglements.

Perhaps your boss will see it that way if you lay it out for them. Meet, Plan, Go can help you with that dialogue too.

_________

Elaine at Seward Glacier, Alaska
Elaine at Seward Glacier, Alaska

About the Author:  Elaine J. Masters is a travel writer, speaker, scuba diver, yoga teacher and the award-winning author of Drivetime Yoga and Flytime Yoga.

She also brings travelers together with three meetups in San Diego: Travel-Well, Meet-Plan-Go-San-Diego, and Travel-Massive-SD.

Blog: http://www.TripWellness.com

Podcast: The Gathering Road on WRN

Au Pair Abroad: 4 Stories of Travel and Cultural Immersion

Live-in nanny
An au pair is a live-in nanny. (photo by Ed Yourdon)

A while ago, I wrote an article that listed 7 alternative travel methods. On that list, I could have also included the idea of working abroad as an Au Pair, which means working as a live-in nanny.

I figured now would be an excellent time to investigate the job prospect a bit more.

In doing so, I have reached out to a couple of traveling ladies that have spent time working in this field to interview them on their experiences relating to their job, cultural immersion, and travel opportunities.

Undoubtedly, working as an Au Pair provides a cultural immersion of sorts, but how does it fare compared to working in other fields abroad, and does it allow for travel opportunities while overseas?

The four ladies who responded to my questions provided more information than I could have imagined, so I chose to feature essential bits below.

Stacey Kuyf
Stacey Kuyf

Stacey Kuyf

Chicago and San Diego, USA - two years

Find Stacey on Twitter and Facebook.

Stacey's Au Pair job, besides looking after two children (boy and girl age 4 and 5), seems pretty laid-back.

Her duties included dropping the children off at school, having daytime hours off, picking the children up at 2:30 pm, and working until 6:30 pm.

In the middle of that, she had to clean, provide snacks, and do laundry a few times a week, but she never really had to work weekends.

Stacey felt very lucky when it came to travel, especially since the rules entail that Au Pairs only need one entire weekend off every month.

Her freedom on the weekends meant she could road trip to new places and even take advantage of US public holidays for long weekend breaks.

Over her two years working in the US, she was able to visit 16 states, take a day trip to Mexico, and spend ten days in Florida in the middle of winter.

Stacey added, "My focus was on travel though, and a lot of Au Pairs will spend all their money on clothes and clubbing and only have seen the city they live in when they leave."

In terms of cultural immersion, Stacey explained:

"I definitely feel that I gained a far deeper insight into the United States by living with Americans as well as working there.

My host dad's a hard core Republican from New York, and I'm very liberal and from New Zealand, so we would have political debates that opened my eyes, and taught me more about the issues that everyday Americans face.

I'm also very thankful that I got to experience Halloween, Thanksgiving and the 4th of July twice while I was there, in two different cities.

These are such "American" holidays, and I'm so lucky to have had the opportunity to celebrate them in the United States."

Jessica Walters
Jessica Walters

Jessica Walters

Aerdenhout, the Netherlands - eight months

You can find Jessica on her Au Pair Cooking Channel.

Jessica Walters currently works about 20 minutes outside of Amsterdam, in a town called Aerdenhout, where she has been working for the past eight months.

Here she cares for a 12-year-old girl, taking care of all the ironing, cooking for four days a week, cleaning the kitchen daily, and taking the girl to her various activities and lessons.

Jessica adds, "She is a dream though, and it's like having a younger sister. . ."

Jessica is also lucky in that she gets to travel a lot. That doesn't happen easily on an Au Pair's salary, but the time is plentiful for her.

"I save all my money (well, most of it) from each month and take a weekend trip, or if it's a holiday from school, then a week-long [trip] somewhere once a month every month."

In terms of cultural immersion, Jessica explains:

"It's the best way because you are living with the people you work with so you have the culture and language around you 24/7. I have worked in Bulgaria as a housekeeper before, and I didn't live with the couple I worked for.

It was a wonderful country but a completely different experience because all I did was work and on my time off I walked around and did more tourist things. . . it got lonely sometimes."

Amanda Slavinsky
Amanda Slavinsky

Amanda Slavinsky

Rome, Italy - four months

Find Amanda on Twitter.

Amanda Slavinsky lived the typical Italian life while working as an Au Pair in Rome for four months. Her duties involved caring for two girls (age 8 and 10) that started with breakfast and getting them to school.

Her daytime hours were free, and she resumed work duties when picking up the girls from school, helping them with homework, and taking them to their afterschool activities.

Dinner was eaten every day as a family around 8 pm in true Italian supper fashion.

Amanda did find travel a bit challenging given her work schedule but did manage to take either day or weekend trips around Italy by train. Exploring other countries was much more difficult.

In terms of cultural immersion, Amanda explained:

"I celebrated birthdays with my family (complete with a sheet of tiramisu in lieu of a birthday cake), watched a lot of Italian television that I would've never been exposed to without them, celebrated my host mom's feast day, ate home cooked Italian meals every night, and learned about how things are dealt with on a familial level in Italy.

I've worked in Korea for 18 months and can say without a doubt that working as an au pair provides valuable insight into another culture, much more than just teaching English."

Jessica Barney
Jessica Barney

Jessica Barney

Paris, France - two weeks

Jessica Barney had a different experience while working for two weeks in a suburb of Paris.

She cared for two children (a boy and girl, ages 7 and 10), but their communication was the big issue.

In terms of travel, Jessica said she could sometimes travel into Paris city, but she worked long hours during the week and had little time for herself.

However, she only stayed for two weeks, so perhaps she could have achieved more travel if the situation had been different.

In terms of cultural immersion, Jessica added:

"I feel like I would have gained a better insight at another job. Interacting with one family, it may create a stereotype."

As you can see, the Au Pair experience can vary significantly given the family, country, and expectations presented.

For the most part, the girls above had good experiences with plenty of travel (if they made it a priority) and a great deal of cultural immersion.

The Exquisite Kota Kinabalu Night Market

Visiting markets, especially local food markets, is one of the most insightful activities one can do when traveling. You can do it while staying at one of the cheap Kota Kinabalu hotels. It reveals the local side of a culture, the way people eat, and the many flavors and cooking styles.

Kota Kinabalu Night Market
Kota Kinabalu Night Market

Markets are the lifeblood of a city. While clothing markets are interesting, too, the necessity of eating as an everyday event makes food markets busier and more important.

Fresh fish in Kota Kinabalu
Fresh fish in Kota Kinabalu

The city of Kota Kinabalu is located on the majestic island of Borneo in the state of Sabah, Malaysia. After traveling Southeast Asia for years, I still think Borneo is one of the world's most fertile and naturally blessed places. Everything looks fresher, bigger, and more luscious there.

Bananas are plump, vegetables are powerfully colorful, the fruit is intensely sweet, and the seafood is on the next level of beauty. Walking through the markets filled with fresh ingredients (nothing even cooked) made my mouth water.

Kota Kinabalu
Kota Kinabalu

The night market in Kota Kinabalu, which opens around 5 p.m. or so in the evening adjacent to the Filipino Market, is easily one of the best markets I've ever visited. It's similar to the Zanzibar night market but more extensive and offers even more food. It was such a fantastic place that I would wait around in my guest house all day, doing little but waiting for the late afternoon to arrive.

The atmosphere was incredible, and though the market was buzzing with activity, it was island-style action-not the aggressive kind of market action you experience in big cities.

Speed boats would zoom to the edge of the market, dropping off a boat full of people while energetic kids would strip down to their undies to take a dip. The sunsets over the calm ocean of Kota Kinabalu were breathtaking.

Fried bananas and sweet pancakes
Fried bananas and sweet pancakes

Though I had visited Kota Kinabalu as an access city to climb Mount Kinabalu, I had a memorable time there, mainly due to the exquisite night market.

Starting in the late afternoon, an abundance of snacks began to emerge. Fried bananas, sweet donuts, and pancakes filled with nutty peanut butter (bottom left) were among the tasty tidbits. Chicken wings (pictured top) were also a popular late-afternoon snack.

After arriving at the market each evening at about 5 p.m., I would purchase snacks, watch the sunset, and observe the market until dark.

A beautiful mess of grilled seafood
A beautiful mess of grilled seafood

When the sun had dispersed, I would browse and contemplate my dinner options. There's a wide range of Southeast Asian foods available at the Kota Kinabalu night market.

Malaysian food, Filipino and Indonesian-inspired dishes, local Bornean cuisine, and an irresistible selection of fresh grilled seafood filled the market. Rather than handle the near-impossible task of choosing just one thing, I ate several meals each night.

An extremely tasty fish
A delicious fish

This fish was the definition of delicious, so good that I ate the same fish from the same smiling lady three nights in a row. Marinated in a tangy sauce and grilled to perfection, the white flesh was flaky, moist, and flavorful.

The accompanying sauce was a communal bucket on the table packed full of red onions, chopped chilies, and squeezed calamansi juice (a cross between a lime and an orange).

Malaysian ABC
Malaysian ABC

Dessert was also a must in such a food paradise. Though the photo doesn't do this bowl of sweet, soupy shaved ice justice, I can assure you that it was refreshing and soothing.

"Ais kacang" (ABC for short) is an oddly wonderful combination of shaved ice, coconut milk, and random toppings. This particular bowl included sweet corn and macaroni!

With friendly vendors, a perfect atmosphere, and a variety of great food, the Kota Kinabalu night market is one of Asia's most incredible eating destinations.

How To Have a Relaxing Weekend in Madrid

Madrid is well-known for its party credentials. You'll find no end of bars, neighborhoods, and streets that come alive after dark and stay open beyond sunrise. But sometimes, sampling the nightlife and going wild for a weekend isn't on the agenda. Occasionally, you might just be looking for a few days in a place where you can relax and unwind. So here are some suggestions if you're looking for a chilled-out time in Madrid.

Lounge In the Park

Parque del Retiro in Madrid.
Parque del Retiro (photo: David Lee)

Another thing that Madrid has in droves - aside from the bars - is a fair amount of open space. On one side of the city, in particular, you've got the Parque del Retiro. You'll find 320 acres of space here, encompassing a boating lake and monuments such as the imposing Alfonso XII Monument and the regal Palacio de Cristal.

However, these well-known areas can get busy, so head away from the crowds, entertainers, and fake sunglasses and explore the wooded paths and rose gardens dotted around the periphery. Wandering around the park's outskirts, you'll also find benches, shady spots, and even some outdoor exercise equipment to help you wind down should the mood take you.

Stay In a Quiet Part of Town

While the party animals tend to congregate around the lively streets of Gran Via, Malasaña, and Chueca, those of you seeking a quieter night might find solace in the Salamanca and Retiro neighborhoods. If you're staying near the latter, you'll find Calle Ibiza full of small tapas bars and restaurants where you can have a quiet bite to eat alongside the locals.

Another option is La Latina, situated in the old city, parts of which are quieter than the main streets but still close enough to the Rastro flea market and numerous tapas bars to get a taste of the evening atmosphere.

Stroll Around the Museums

Museo del Prado
Museo del Prado (photo: David Lee)

During the day, Madrid's temperature can soar - and that's where the city's many museums come into their own. While you won't want to miss the Golden Triangle of Art, home to three top-class art museums: the Prado, the Reina Sofia, and the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, there are other museums worth a shout, too.

For example, there's the art academy where Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali once studied-the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando. This grand building houses a museum and gallery collection of fine art from the 15th to the 20th century.

Sightseeing from up high

One way to see all the main tourist spots without battling the crowds is from the air. Madrid is lucky enough to have El Teleférico, a cable car that scoops you up from its base near La Rosaleda Park and takes you above the parkland to Casa de Campo.

You can see the Royal Palace of Madrid and La Almudena Cathedral in the distance. Still, and best of all, you can enjoy five minutes of peace and take in the city from above before strolling around the parkland at the other end or having a cheeky glass of Sangria in the restaurant before hopping back on again.

48 Hours in Miami, Capital of Latin Culture

After discovering and immersing myself in Colombia's Latin culture, I began thinking more about Miami. Spending just 48 hours in Miami can offer a taste of that culture. Some say it's the capital of Latin America, and if I decide to settle back in the United States, living in Miami would make a lot of sense.

A three-hour flight takes you to most of Central America, the Caribbean, and the northern countries of South America, which are a confluence of Latin and Caribbean cultures.

Art deco buildings on South Beach
Art Deco buildings on South Beach

Like New York City, Miami draws many people, from wealthy transplants to immigrants seeking a better life. Its cultural scene and diverse food options, including everything from street food to healthy meals, make it even more appealing to newcomers.

I incorporated a quick visit between my time in South America and Europe. Here's a recap of my first 48 hours in Miami.

Table of Contents

    • 1:30 pm, Thursday - Couchsurfing and Lincoln Road
    • Ocean Drive
    • South Beach
    • South Pointe Park
    • Beers at Abbey Brewery
    • 1 pm, Friday - Puerto Rican Food at Jimmy'z Kitchen
  • Dessert at Serendipity 3
  • Viernes Culturales in Little Havana
  • Cuban Food at Versailles Restaurant

1:30 pm, Thursday - Couchsurfing and Lincoln Road

Lincoln Road
Lincoln Road is a pedestrian walkway lined with shops and restaurants

Like many tourists, I decided to base myself in South Beach. It's the East Coast's Beverly Hills. There's so much money walking around; you can smell it.

If you're planning a similar trip and want a bit more space than a hotel, there are plenty of options for luxury rentals in Miami, especially around South Beach and Brickell, where you can stay close to the action while still having room to spread out.

I took a $2 bus from Aventura to Lincoln Road, the epicenter of South Beach, after staying with Danny and Jillian from I Should Log Off further north. Along the way, I spotted my first (of two) orange Lamborghini.

I got off the bus at Lincoln Road, an 8-block outdoor mall between Alton Road and Washington Avenue, with dozens of shops, bars, and restaurants. I could tell right away this was my kind of neighborhood.

As I rolled my new luggage down the pedestrian walkway, I noticed plenty of pretty people and a lot of skin-much more than I used to see in South American cities, even in the summer. Reverse culture shock strikes again.

While exploring Lincoln Road, I couldn't help but notice how busy the area was. It's no wonder so many people seek restaurant jobs in Miami to be a part of the thriving culinary scene.

I was psyched to find that Briana's (my Couchsurfing host's) apartment was a block off Lincoln Road. It was a cute studio, which reminded me of my old apartment in Virginia. After getting to know each other, she headed to work, and I explored Miami Beach.

Lunch at Sushi Samba. Roll in the foreground: bigeye tuna, tempura flake, aji panca. Roll in back: king crab, avocado, Asian pear, soy paper, wasabi-avocado crema
Lunch at Sushi Samba

First, I had to replace my MacBook's AC adapter, which was easy enough, as there was an Apple store on Lincoln Road.

Next, it was time for a late lunch. The heat and humidity were oppressive in mid-afternoon, yet I still decided to grab a table outside Sushi Samba for a bit of people-watching.

I ordered two rolls, each containing six to eight small pieces. The quality was excellent, but the quantity for the money left me in disbelief.

Briana had warned me about the high prices on Lincoln Road before I stepped out. I made a mental note not to spend $35 on another meal in Miami unless I knew it'd fill me up.

Ocean Drive

Ocean Drive
Ocean Drive runs north/south, parallel to South Beach

Lunch was over quickly, so I began walking south along Ocean Drive, which practically intersects with Lincoln Road. The right side of the street was lined with restaurants and bars, one after the other, for a good ten blocks.

All of them had outdoor seating along the sidewalk, where people kicked off happy hour with giant margaritas. These cocktails were so big that they often had one or two inverted Corona bottles sticking out of them.

Seafood was a popular choice, and after seeing so many King Crab legs being served, I began to crave them myself.

South Beach

The turquoise waters along South Beach
The turquoise waters (and seaweed) along South Beach

Eventually, I hooked a left and walked along South Beach. The water was warm, and for a Thursday afternoon, there were plenty of people enjoying it.

Before arriving in South Beach, I thought it was an exclusive area. But, as it turns out, it's more like Venice Beach, California, or the Atlantic City boardwalk, attracting an eclectic mix of vacationers and locals.

South Pointe Park

South Pointe Park
The trail at South Pointe Park

South Pointe Park is at the south end of Miami Beach, which is actually an island connected to the mainland by several causeways.

Several luxury high-rises are built here; however, when I walked through the area, it was dead. After the restaurants on Ocean Drive come to an end around 5th Street, it's a ghost town.

Like much of the expensive real estate in southern Florida, it's possible that many property owners aren't living in these buildings, but just using the space as a way to store their wealth and lower their tax liabilities.

South Pointe Park, however, was filled with joggers and people walking their dogs. After walking 18 blocks to South Pointe, I turned around and made it all of one block back toward the north before waving the white flag of exhaustion and hailing a taxi.

Beers at Abbey Brewery

To make up for my pricey lunch, I grabbed a sandwich from 7-11 and returned to the apartment, where I met Briana's boyfriend, Tim. We talked for a while, and then he offered me a beer. We walked a few blocks to Abbey Brewery, where I had the chance to sample the house beers.

Abbey Brewery was a dive bar as you'd find in NYC. I liked it immediately, even though Miami had not yet banned smoking in bars and restaurants.

1 pm, Friday - Puerto Rican Food at Jimmy'z Kitchen

Mofongo at Jimmy'z Kitchen
Mofongo

I checked my email Friday morning and then TripAdvisor to see if there were any exciting restaurants nearby. Jimmy'z Kitchen caught my attention with rave reviews about the mofongo, a Puerto Rican dish. It was only a few blocks from the apartment, so I went to investigate.

As I approached the address, I was surprised to find it resembled a typical strip-mall restaurant. Inside, there were only about six tables, and all were full. It was a tiny place, but I decided to wait for a table and eat there for the complete experience.

Mofongo: Mashed fried green plantains, garlic, olive oil, and crunchy pork rinds, soaked in a rich tomato sauce with a kick.

-- Jimmy'z Kitchen

I got lucky-mofongo is only available on Fridays and Saturdays. I ordered it with chicken; honestly, it was unlike anything I've ever tasted.

The tomato sauce was rich and slightly spicy, and the mashed plantains were more than enough to fill me up. If I were to order the dish again, I'd skip the chicken. And best of all, it was only about a third of the cost of my sushi lunch the day before.

Dessert at Serendipity 3

Frozen hot chocolate
Frozen hot chocolate at Serendipity 3

During my first pass through Lincoln Road, I'd noticed Serendipity 3. I'd wanted to try the original Serendipity in New York City since I saw the movie by the same name (with John Cusack and Kate Beckinsale).

Despite being full of mofongo, I walked into Serendipity 3 and promptly ordered their famous frozen hot chocolate.

Made from the grounds of 17 different types of cacao, it's simply a cold chocolate drink. What I didn't expect was the mountain of whipped cream they added. Because it's made with ice instead of ice cream, it's not as heavy as a milkshake, though the cacao ensures it's just as rich.

Hopped up on sugar, I picked up a new pair of Oakleys at The Sunglass Hut. I'd bought my last pair almost four years earlier in Cape Town.

Viernes Culturales in Little Havana

REAL Cuban music in Little Havana
REAL Cuban music performed in a cigar shop during the monthly "Viernes Culturales" in Little Havana

Along with South Beach, Little Havana was on my shortlist of must-see places in Miami. Luckily, my visit coincided with the monthly Viernes Culturales (Cultural Fridays) block party in Little Havana.

While my host, Briana, couldn't join me, a Couchsurfing meetup was happening for the event, with no fewer than two dozen couchsurfers in attendance.

The block party was light on people, which might be due to the low season, as this event seemed to draw primarily tourists. I was expecting streets to be closed off, as you might see in Medellin. Instead, we dodged traffic as we crossed back and forth across Calle Ocho.

People followed the live entertainment as it moved from one venue to the next: a restaurant and a Cuban cigar shop. Still, standing in a smoke-filled cigar shop with a $5 mojito in hand, listening to real Cuban music was just the experience I was looking for in Little Havana.

See also: Affordable Things To Do in Miami

Cuban Food at Versailles Restaurant

Classic Cuban food at Versailles: white rice, black beans,
Classic Cuban food at Versailles

While hanging out in Little Havana, chatting with couchsurfers, I remembered Versailles restaurant. I'd already paid $30 for a taxi to Little Havana, so what's a little more for a chance to eat at the best Cuban restaurant in Miami (or anywhere outside of Cuba, for that matter).

A short, $10 taxi ride later, I'm sitting in a packed restaurant. It's midnight on a Friday, and I knew there was a reason I hadn't eaten dinner yet.

I ordered a Cuban espresso (which turned out to be way too strong for me) and the Classic platter, which included twice as much food as I could eat. Aside from a few Cuban sandwiches in NYC, I'd not been exposed to Cuban food.

This was my introduction, and it was tasty. I was especially fond of the roast pork, "picadillo" ground beef, and ham croquette. Afterward, I caught a taxi back to South Beach for about $37. Unlike NYC, if I do move to Miami one day, I'll have to get a car.

Driving in Miami? Stay Alert. 

Miami moves fast. One moment you're soaking up sunshine on South Beach, and the next you're sprinting for cover from a surprise downpour. Summer storms can make the roads slick, and winter brings a surge of visitors that slows everything to a crawl. If you do find yourself in a fender bender, Miami car accident lawyers can help you navigate the insurance side of things so you're not stuck sorting it out alone.

In the meantime, take it easy on I-95 and the Dolphin Expressway, keep an eye out for impatient drivers, and don't trust your GPS unquestioningly when traffic gets messy. Stay safe out there and enjoy the ride.

Hostel Living 101

Dorm bed in a Reykjavik hostel
Big, fluffy duvets are a nice touch at this hostel in Reykjavik, Iceland

[F]ourteen years after I spent my first night sleeping in a youth hostel in Amsterdam, I continue to spend a good portion of my year staying in them.

I've experienced hostel living as a bright-eyed, bushy-tailed college grad, and a persnickety 35-year old with lower back pain.

As normal as living out of a backpack, and sharing dorm rooms has become for me, I'm regularly reminded of the younger kids who are just getting started with a life of travel. This article is for them.

When To Make A Reservation

By and large, you can walk into most hostels of the world, at any time of year, and get a bed to rest your head.

Rarely does a backpacker need to sleep on a park bench because there's no space at the local hostel. There are a few exceptions to this rule of thumb, of course.

These are the times I consider making an advance reservation at a hostel:

  • To ensure a stay at a hostel that got rave reviews from my friends, or someone I trust.
  • During a popular holiday, sports event, or festival, such as Christmas, the World Cup, or Oktoberfest.
  • In expensive destinations, such as Iceland, when I want to lock in a cheaper bed rate for a larger dorm.
The rest of the time, I pick out a first choice hostel, and one or two back-ups, and just show up.

Save Money With a Membership Card

If you're planning to go backpacking for an extended time, such as a month or more, than it often makes sense to pick up a hostel membership card, like those offered by Youth Hostel Association.

You can usually make your money back within 3-5 stays at a participating youth hostel, and we all know backpackers appreciate a bargain.

I've personally used discount cards in Europe, and more recently, South America.

Exercise Good Etiquette

Living in a communal situation necessitates good etiquette.

The hostels I've enjoyed staying at the most manage to create a fun atmosphere, while ensuring guests remain respectful of one another.

Here are my three biggest tips to keep it copacetic:

  • Stay tidy and organized. Ensure your stuff is on, around, or under your bed, for example. You're less likely to lose things, and others are less likely to trample over your clothes when the lights are off.
  • If you want to drink heavily, and stay out until the early morning, stay at a party hostel. Most hostels have a communal area or bar for hanging out, and sharing a beer at the end of a long day. But if you want to drink heavily, and stay up all night partying, do us a favor and stay at a known party hostel where you're less likely to piss other people off.
  • Don't have sex when other people are in the room. This is a common pet peeve by anyone whose had the experience. It's just awkward for those around you, no matter how quiet you think you're being. Use a communal bathroom in the hall, pay for a private room, or find an hourly hotel instead.
What's one piece of hostel advice you'd offer future backpackers of the world?

__________

This post was written by Dave, and brought to you by Youth Hostel Association (YHA).

5 Fun Ways To Explore Sydney

When compared to some of Australia's more naturally spectacular and scenic locations, Sydney has a tough time keeping the attention of time-strapped travelers. To many, it's just another big city.

Sydney Opera House
Sydney Opera House as seen from the harbor (photo by xiquinho)

Even though I might be a bit biased - I do call Sydney home - I can attest to the city's random and interesting nature. You have to know where to look.

And when you find those quirky and fun bits, you'll be swept away and wondering why you'd ever want to leave. Here are some of the more fun ways to explore Sydney.

Table of Contents

  • Sydney Activities
    • 1. Take a Gourmet Safari
    • 2. Arribaa Local Tours
    • 3. Harley Trike Tours
    • 4. Take the Ferry
    • 5. Explore Sydney at Night

Sydney Activities

1. Take a Gourmet Safari

Gourmet safari
Presentation at a South American deli on our Gourmet Safari

Locals in Sydney are familiar with the SBS TV show Food Safari, hosted by Maeve O'Meara. Maeve started showing family and friends around to some of her favorite authentic restaurants across many Sydney suburbs.

This evolved into a food tour company called Gourmet Safari, and boy, are they a lot of fun! My boyfriend and I were given a voucher for a Gourmet Safari for Christmas and booked in for a long Saturday of food from around the world.

The best part? We were introduced to several small shops from lesser-visited suburbs, serving some spectacular cuisine inspired by the cultures of their home countries.

These were places I would never have known without the tour! It's also just a great way to see Sydney and learn more about the different cultures that populate the suburbs.

2. Arribaa Local Tours

Go on a local's tour of Newtown
Go on a local's tour of Newtown (photo by LWY)

Arribaa is a new online venture that was introduced to me through Sydney Travel Massive. The premise of the site is to allow locals to offer tours on whatever they specialize in.

So, if a local girl in Newtown knows a lot about the best coffee shops and cafes, and also likes to knit, you could pay a fee to go on her "tour", creating a scarf along the way. One thing Arribaa is good for - getting a proper local's perspective on their neighborhoods.

3. Harley Trike Tours

Harley trike
Looking cool on the back of a Harley trike.

If you have a "need for speed," a love of leather, and an affinity for feeling the breeze in your hair (or in your helmet), then I suggest signing up for a Harley-Davidson Trike tour.

I know, it sounds silly, and it is, but I had fun on mine. You arrive at the tour booth, and the leather-clad guide will help you into your bad-to-the-bone jacket and top it off with a protective helmet.

Two people can fit on the back of the trike, so bring a friend and prepare for the watching eyes of everyone around you. They're completely jealous.

There are different tour lengths. An hour-long tour might take you around Sydney's Rocks district and across the bridge to North Sydney parklands. A several-hour ride might buy you a trip to the Sea Cliff Bridge just south of the Royal National Park, and a lunch.

4. Take the Ferry

Sydney ferry
A Sydney ferry (photo by dicktay2000)

Being a harbor city, Sydney's ferries are a viable form of public transportation to get you from place to place amongst its sprawling suburbs. Instead of forking out for an actual Sydney Harbor cruise, why not just enjoy the ferry?

You can take a 30-minute ferry ride to Manly in the Northern Beaches - great on a sunny summer day, or you can take a short ferry across the harbor to Mosman and the home of the Taronga Zoo (also home to some of the best city views).

And please, whenever you are on the beach or outdoors, be mindful of the harsh Australian sun. Always put on plenty of sunscreen. Sunsuit is a good alternative to sunscreen for children.

Cockatoo Island, right in the middle of Sydney Harbor and host to the Island Bar, is just asking for a ferry ride. There, you can kick back a Fat Yak or two with perfect city views.

5. Explore Sydney at Night

Explore sydney at night
Sydney at night (photo by kyletaylor)

Sydney loves its nightlife, and you can easily head out for a night on the town at Oxford Street or, if you're brave, Kings Cross. What once looks mild in daylight comes alive at dusk.

Other ways to get into exploring Sydney outside of hitting up a pub crawl at night include:

  • Climbing the Sydney Harbor Bridge at dusk.
  • Going on a Rocks Ghost Tour.
  • Taking a Twilight Discovery tour with Understand Down Under.
  • Taking a Manly 2.5-hour Q-Station Ghost Tour.

As you can see, Sydney may not have mountains or rainforests, but it certainly knows how to showcase itself.

Hwaseong Fortress in South Korea

Hwaseong Fortress, Suwon, South Korea
Hwaseong Fortress, Suwon, South Korea

[W]hen I was visiting Seoul, I decided to take a day trip to the city of Suwon to visit the Hwaseong Fortress.

Built in the late 1700's by King Jeongjo, the fortress is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and attracts a stream of tourists, students, and many local residents as well.

Inside the palace of the Hwaseong Fortress
Inside the palace of the Hwaseong Fortress

The palace itself, located on the ground level within the walls of the fortress, is a beautifully preserved complex.

The neatly laid out design showed all the components of the king's living quarters.

Top view of the palace
Top view of the palace

Climbing up the hill, I got a nice aerial view of the palace compound.

Hiking the wall
Hiking the wall

Surrounded by thick fortress walls and a few hills on the side, makes Hwaseong an ideal place to get a little exercise.

The climb to the highest point took me about 15 minutes and I was huffing and puffing the entire way.

View of Suwon
View of Suwon

The view of Suwan city from the top of the wall was beautiful, a real contrast between the modern buildings of the city and the ancient stone walls of the fortress.

A pagoda at the top of the fortress walls
A pagoda at the top of the fortress walls

The pagoda at the top offered the perfect place to take seat, enjoy the breeze, and catch my breath from the hike up.

Top lookout post
Top lookout post

With great stone walls, look-out towers, and castle-like gates, some call the Hwaseong Fortress South Korea's mini version of the Great China Wall.

Hwaseong Fortress
Hwaseong Fortress

Though set up as a tourist attraction (with an entrance fee, nicely maintained, signs explaining the history of everything, etc.), I was delighted that local Suwon residents still use the fortress a gathering area - a place where old men sat and drank tea and played cards and others walked and jogged for exercise.

Just like an ancient Chinese village, times and technology are rapidly changing, but hopefully the Hwaseong Fortress will remain a place that's preserved, yet still utilized by its residents.

One of the main gates
One of the main gates

The Hwaseong Fortress includes four main gates which were formerly heavily guarded.

Now at each of the gates you can walk around, explore, or just sit on a stone bench to relax and enjoy it all.

Canon at Hwaseong Fortress
Canon at Hwaseong Fortress

Just outside the cannons and walls is a bustling modern city of electronics, restaurants and businesses, but inside the fortress is a peaceful escape from the thrills of modern South Korea.

Suwon's Hwaseong Fortress makes a wonderful day trip!

5 Alternatives to the Parillas in Palermo

Caesar salad with chicken at bBlue
Caesar salad with chicken, and fresh fruit juice at bBlue

By all accounts, Buenos Aires is one of the best cities in the world to grab a steak, but a man (or woman) cannot live on steak alone.

At least not this man.

During the month I spent in the upscale Palermo Soho neighborhood, I sought out alternative dining options to enjoy between my visits to the best parrillas in Buenos Aires.

Below are five of my favorite restaurants, if you're ever looking for alternatives to the parillas in Palermo.

Table of Contents

  • 1. bBlue (Deli & Natural Bar)
  • 2. La Salamandra (Dulce de Leche & Mozzarella Bar)
  • 3. Phuket (Thai)
  • 4. Little Rose (Sushi)
  • 5. Sarkis (Armenian)

1. bBlue (Deli & Natural Bar)

I happened across bBlue soon after I moved into my Palermo apartment.

It was a lovely Saturday afternoon, and the locals were out in force to shop, eat, and enjoy the weather.

bBlue was busy, but after waiting for a few minutes, a two-person table opened up inside.

I was immediately given complimentary carrots, with a purple (radish?) dip.

The first thing that caught my attention on the menu was the array of fresh fruit shakes they offered.

I went with a mango, ginger, and orange juice shake ($5.39).

For lunch, I chose to go light, with a chicken wrap.

It wasn't until it arrived that I realized just how light a portion size it was. At least there were some boiled potatoes on the side.

When I returned to bBlue for another healthy lunch, I opted for the Caesar salad with chicken, and another mango shake.

Despite the small portions, I enjoyed the overall atmosphere and healthy-eating mission of bBlue.

bBlue Deli & Natural Bar

Address:  Armenia 1692, Buenos Aires

Caprese salad at La Salamandra
An $8 Caprese salad with fresh mozzarella, tomato, and basil at La Salamandra

2. La Salamandra (Dulce de Leche & Mozzarella Bar)

Once again, I was walking around Palermo with no particular destination in mind when I discovered La Salamandra.

The sidewalk tables looked too inviting to pass up, and I grabbed a seat under the awning.

Like bBlue, the menu inspired me to eat healthily. I ordered a Caprese salad, which was wonderfully presented.

All the ingredients were fresh. I can't remember the last time I'd eaten fresh mozzarella. It was a treat.

The salad was made up of a variety of leafy greens, which I prefer over the standard lettuce.

During my second visit, I sat inside, and a friendly guy next to me struck up a conversation.

That time, I also made sure to try their freshly baked dulce de leche alfajores.

La Salamandra

Address: El Salvador 4761, Buenos Aires

Spicy panang curry with chicken
Spicy Panang curry with chicken

3. Phuket (Thai)

Phuket was located around the corner from my apartment, but because it didn't open until 9 pm each night, it took me a while to get there.

Eating dinner late is a cultural norm in Argentina, and not one I was easily able to get used to.

I resisted, though if I were ever to live there, I'd have to try to adapt.

I decided to check out Phuket on a weeknight, and I'm glad I did.

Authentic Thai food is not easy to come by in South America, and though I know it exists in Lima, I hadn't bothered to seek it out.

All the classic dishes were on the menu and even written in Thai, as well as Spanish. The spiciness was indicated with between one to three Thai chiles.

I ordered my favorite, spicy Panang curry with chicken and rice. At $13.60, it wasn't cheap, but it also turned out to be the spiciest dish I'd eaten in South America until that point (a good thing).

Phuket

Address: Honduras 4169, Buenos Aires

Sushi, plus salmon nigiri and sashimi
Sushi, plus salmon nigiri and sashimi

4. Little Rose (Sushi)

The Little Rose was a sushi recommendation I received via Twitter.

Located in the heart of Palermo Soho, it's easy to find thanks to an awning with the restaurant's name.

Walk up a flight of stairs, and you'll find yourself in what appears to be a former residence. The restaurant's decor is intimate and comfortable.

I stopped by for lunch one afternoon and ordered one of their set menus, which included a soup, and sushi/nigiri/sashimi combo, heavy on the salmon.

During the time I was in Buenos Aires, I'd heard rumors of a salmon shortage.

Chile supplies Argentina with its salmon, and for whatever reason, it was in short supply.

It was so bad some Japanese restaurants weren't even serving salmon, which is hard to swallow given tuna isn't on a lot of menus as it is.

Thankfully, the Little Rose came through, and I got my salmon nigiri fix. The fish was fresh and nicely presented. The price was $14.65.

Little Rose

Address: Armenia 1672, Buenos Aires

Fresh hummus
Fresh hummus

5. Sarkis (Armenian)

Sarkis may very well have been the first time I've eaten Armenian food. 

The restaurant was a recommendation of Amy, an expat blogger, and editor living in Buenos Aires.

We met one afternoon for lunch, and I let her take the lead on ordering. The servings were family-style.

Our first entrée was chicken on pita bread, which was then smothered with yogurt.

The second was a platter of meatballs in a rich and flavorful tomato sauce.

By the time we were ready to go, I could barely move.

Sarkis

Address: 11oo Thames, Buenos Aires

Partnering with Eurail.com

Eurail Global Pass
Eurail Global Pass

Today I'm excited to share a new partnership with Eurail.com, a website specializing in the sales of Eurail train passes for travel through Europe.

Fourteen years ago, in 1998, I went backpacking around Europe for the first time.

Paris / Amsterdam / Prague / Venice / Florence / Como / Rome / The French Riviera / Ireland

My 10-day Eurail Youth Flexipass gave me the freedom and flexibility to move around the continent on a whim.

And it was that first experience traveling on my own that would later inspire me to think bigger, and take a 20-month trip around the world.

This September marks my return to Europe for the first time since the end of my RTW trip, and I'll once again be riding the rails.

This time, with a Eurail Global Pass.

High speed train in Paris
High speed train in Paris

The Global Pass is good in 23 countries, and my goal is to visit as many new ones as possible while I'm in the region.

I don't have a concrete itinerary in mind, which is exactly why a rail pass suits travelers like me so well.

I'm still trying to decide between heading north to Scandinavia, or heading south through Eastern Europe toward Greece.

The pass is valid for 15 days within a two-month period, and because I'm now well over the age of 26, I'll be riding in 1st Class.

The 1st class compartments are more spacious and comfortable, and I'll still have access to the 2nd class compartments if I want to relive my youth.

The trains in Europe are a backpacker's best friend
The trains in Europe are a backpacker's best friend

For those unfamiliar with Eurail passes, the first step toward obtaining one is to decide which type of pass best fits your trip.

Eurail.com offers four categories of passes:

  • Global Pass
  • Select Pass
  • Regional Pass
  • One Country Pass

The Global Pass is ideal for the travelers who don't want a set itinerary. It gives you access to 23 countries, and there are a variety of passes to choose from based on your age, and the length of your trip.

The Select Pass offer access to three to five neighboring countries of your choice, while the Regional Pass is even more specific, offering access to one or two neighboring countries.

One of the best parts about using a Eurail pass is the ease with which you can travel.

Unless you're taking a high speed or overnight train, you usually don't have to reserve a seat in advance.

You just show up and board the train of your choice, and write the day and month in one of the spaces provided on the pass. Then, when the conductor comes by, he/she will stamp that date.

The Global Pass allows you to travel as much as you want on a single day, so I could make a trip that requires several transfers, but as long as they all occur on the same day, I'm only using up one of my 15 days.

My 10-day Eurail Youth Flexipass from 1998
My 10-day Eurail Youth Flexipass from 1998

My goal during the two-month travel period is to showcase the ease with which you can get around Europe by rail, and the savings foreigners can experience by buying a pass in advance, versus individual tickets as you go.

At the end of my trip, I'll compare costs, and share the results here.

___________

Disclosure:  Eurail.com provided me with a complimentary rail pass. As always, any opinions expressed are my own.

5 of the Best Countries for Vegetarians

Vegetarian in Thailand? Look for the yellow signs and flags
Vegetarian in Thailand? Look for the yellow signs and flags

[L]ast month I wrote about some of the best countries in the world if you're a meat lover.

So it's only right to follow-up the previous carnivorous article with a post about some countries where eating non-meat meals is especially enjoyable.

Though I'm not vegetarian, as much as I love meat, I love fruits and vegetables equally.

Table of Contents

  • 1. India
  • 2. Thailand
  • 3. Egypt
  • 4. Lebanon
  • 5. United States

1. India

As a country with the world's largest amount of vegetarians, India has developed some seriously tasty recipes for pure-veg cuisine. It is estimated that over 30% of the population doesn't eat meat, and with a population the size of India, that's a massive statistic.

Beans, lentils, chickpeas, and paneer cottage cheese, are just a few of the wonderful ingredients that can make a vegetarian meal in India so delicious. But it's the abundance of spices that really add excitement and vibrancy to Indian vegetarian cuisine.

I've personally never traveled to India, but I have had quite a few Indian vegetarian meals at restaurants in other countries that were superb. If I needed to become a vegetarian, I would be quick to move to India!

2. Thailand

Thailand is a country that has it all when it comes to cuisine - everything from meat packed dishes to fresh herbaceous vegetable dishes.

If you are a strict vegetarian though, be careful as sometimes the so-called Thai vegetarian food uses fish sauce and meat broth (depends on your strictness). That being said, there are many designated vegetarian restaurants catering mainly to those that eat vegetarian for religious and cultural purposes.

Thailand is also a country that produces a glorious array of fresh fruits and vegetables. Sliced tropical fruit is available year round and pieces of pineapple, watermelon, mangoes, and papaya can all be purchased pre-sliced from street vendors throughout the country.

The annual Thai vegetarian festival is a paradise on earth for vegetarian eaters. Though the main festival takes place in Phuket, just about every city in Thailand has a crowd that cooks and eats vegetarian during this period. Vegetarian friendly stalls are marked by yellow flags.

Egyptian sandwiches
Egyptian sandwiches

3. Egypt

Some of the most famous dishes in Egypt are vegetarian. While I was traveling in Egypt, in order to eat cheap and local, I ended up eating vegetarian by default quite frequently.

Ful medames, a fava bean mash that's similar to Mexican refried beans, is one of the staples of an Egyptian diet. Not only does it taste good, it's filling and nutritious.

Everyday I would stop by a local Egyptian sandwich stall and grab a bag full of pita wrapped sandwiches filled with ful, falafel, or  fried eggplant, and garnished with pickled vegetables. They were delicious!

Lebanese food
Lebanese food

4. Lebanon

Cuisines form around the Mediterranean have been perfecting a variety of vegetarian dishes for centuries.

Okra, cauliflower, lentils, all sorts of beans, tomatoes, and many types of pickled vegetables and olives are important in a Lebanese diet. Hummus, which is a staple in many Middle Eastern cuisines, is one of the world's finest dips - a smooth blend of mashed chickpeas, lemon juice, olive oil and varying garnishes.

Eggplant, which happens to be one of my all-time favorite vegetables on the planet, is a major component in a number of wonderful Lebanese dishes as well.

5. United States

As a country that includes a growing percentage of health conscious individuals and is composed of cultures from around the world, the United States has an ever-expanding supply of vegetarian restaurants.

When I went back for a visit in the US, I noticed plenty of restaurants ranging from pure-vegetarian Indian eateries to trendy looking fusion vegetarian restaurants.

Along with places to eat, there's a rising number of supermarkets and farmers' markets that supply a great selection of ingredients to cater to a healthy vegetarian kitchen.

So while it's possible by making the effort to eat vegetarian or mostly vegetarian in whatever country you travel to, these countries make vegetarian food into meals to look forward to!

Top Attractions in Canakkale, Turkey

A quiet street in Canakkale.
A quiet street in Canakkale.

Chances are you may never have heard of the city in Turkey named Canakkale. Nope.

Before I traveled to Turkey, I didn't know much about the country either, but when I started scoping out some major attractions, I learned that I had to travel to one place to do a few of them.

Say it with me.... Canakkale.

Canakkale became our base for a couple of days to explore these important attractions while taking in the vibe of a smaller sea-side city in Turkey.

Anzac tour statues
One of the battle memorials on our Anzac tour.

Gallipoli and ANZAC Cove

Before moving to Australia, I had no idea about ANZAC Day or even the battle that took so many lives in such a short time.

Quickly I learned, and I learned what the Aussies told me about this important day, especially that it marks the landing of the ANZAC troops to a part of Turkey known as Gallipoli.

Since my boyfriend is Australian, we had to go.

We ventured to Canakkale and signed up for a half-day tour with TJ's Tours that took us across the strait on a ferry and further on a van tour of the entire peninsula.

Scenery around Gallipoli
Scenery around Gallipoli -- so beautiful that it was hard to associate with such a gruesome past.

Our tour involved visiting several memorial cemeteries in one of the most beautiful locations, making it that much more tragic for those soldiers stuck in battles for months on end.

Although a popular attraction on actual ANZAC Day (April 25th), I wouldn't recommend going at this time unless the place is of significant importance to you or your family.

We went a week beforehand and were happy to have a relatively easy time getting around, which is not the case when thousands of people flock to the tiny area.

trojan horse in Troy
The Trojan Horse at Ancient Troy Site

The Ancient City of Troy

History buffs and Classics nerds (like myself) will jump at the chance to visit the ancient city of Troy - the site of the Trojan War and the focus of many great epics, such as the Iliad and the Aeneid.

The ruins of this once mythical location were uncovered and, after many studies, researchers concluded this was the site that Homer used as his inspiration for stories.

In fact, the excavation of the ruins shows several layers of cities, which would coincide with the idea of Troy being demolished and rebuilt over the course of hundreds of years.

To explore Troy, located a 45-minute drive away from Canakkale, we again signed up for a half-day tour with TJ's Tours, who provided the transport there and back, along with a guide at the site.

troy scenery
The beautiful Turkish landscape around Troy.

I was thrilled that we had the guide as, even for a history lover like myself, I would not have had a clue what I was looking at otherwise.

Troy was little more than a pile of rubble and rocks under the ground to the untrained eye, and our guide helped to bring it to life.

The real treasure -- what was left -- has been stowed away at the Çanakkale Archaeology Museum in Canakkale city.

Trojan Horse in Canakkale
Trojan Horse in Canakkale from the movie, Troy (photo by QuartierLatin1968)

The Movie-Famous Trojan Horse

One of the biggest attractions to the actual site of Troy is the ability to take a photo with the Trojan Horse. Now, you don't even have to go that far.

After the filming of the movie Troy, the one with Brad Pitt, the wooden horse used as a prop, was donated to the city of Canakkale.

It sits right in the heart of the city, along the boardwalk, and you can easily grab a shot or two with it.

The funny part is how different this Trojan Horse looks from the one at Troy's actual site.

canakkale archaeology museum
Ruins outside the Canakkale Archaeology Museum

Canakkale Archaeology Museum

The Canakkale Archaeology Museum might be small, but the contents combined with a meager 5 lire entrance fees make it a worthwhile stop.

Most of the artifacts inside - amphora, statues, and small tools - come from nearby excavations, such as Troy and Assos.

I also really enjoyed the museum's outdoor garden, which was littered with big bits and pieces of ruins, such as broken marble columns and giant amphorae.

5 Key Health and Safety Travel Tips

Falling ill at the best of times isn't easy, but when you are traveling in far-flung places with only your guidebook and rucksack for company, it can get a whole lot harder.

Things can be even more complicated if you have any pre-existing medical conditions, but with a bit of planning and common sense, things can still go smoothly.

Bolivian Altiplano
Crossing the Bolivian Altiplano (photo: David Lee)

We've put together a few tips to help you prepare for a trip abroad, whether it's backpacking through the Andes or cruising the Med on a yacht.

Table of Contents

  • 1. Vaccinations
  • 2. Insurance
  • 3. Language
  • 4. Medication
  • 5. Emergency numbers

1. Vaccinations

First, make sure you are aware of the vaccinations required for your destination(s) and when you need to receive them, as some can take several weeks to become effective.

As a general guideline, eight weeks is typically sufficient advance notice for most vaccinations. Some vaccinations are available on the NHS, while others require payment.

For more detailed information, visit the NHS Travel Vaccination Planner or the NHS Fit for Travel website, which provides vaccination information for every country in the world.

2. Insurance

Some form of pre-existing medical travel insurance is essential if you are planning a trip, even if you are heading out on a backpacking trip to EU countries.

Healthcare and its associated costs vary hugely across the world, and taking time to find a good insurance plan will give you peace of mind and be invaluable if the worst should happen. You can quickly compare travel insurance plans at Singsaver to determine which one best fits your needs.

There are various types and levels of coverage, ranging from activity-based to pre-existing medical travel insurance. Take time to research the most relevant one for you and your travels.

3. Language

Learn a few key phrases that may be helpful in a medical emergency in the language of each country you will be visiting.

If you have an existing medical condition, obtain the key information translated into each relevant language before you leave, and always carry the relevant notes with you.

4. Medication

Pharmaceutical drugs can be expensive abroad, and in some cases, you may not be sure what you are being given, so it is worthwhile getting a prescription that will cover you for your whole trip, plus some emergency supplies in case you stay away a bit longer.

Although you can obtain the usual painkillers and other medications in all countries, they may be more expensive compared to the UK, so it's worth taking your preferred brand with you, just in case.

5. Emergency numbers

Always have emergency numbers with you and at your accommodation, if possible. Your next of kin's contact details, your insurance telephone number, and policy numbers should be easily accessible in case of illness or accident.

Ensure that your emergency contact at home also has access to all your insurance details and itinerary. If possible, try to let someone at home know you are ill so they can handle insurance matters if needed.

It's also worth making a note of the emergency numbers for the countries you are staying in - the equivalent of the UK's 999 emergency number.

Those are our top five tips to help give you some peace of mind when it comes to falling ill on your travels. Of course, we hope you won't get sick or have any accidents.

Your trip will be a total blast from beginning to end, and you'll come back fitter and more relaxed than ever before.

The 5 Best, Little-Known Places to Visit in Bali

What springs to mind when you think of Bali?

  • Great surfing, heavy drinking binges, and wild dance clubs?
  • Over-crowded souvenir-laden sprawl?
  • Or perhaps luxurious vacation beach resorts?

That world does exist in a small region of south Bali. But if that's all you know about Bali, then you're missing Bali.

places to visit in Bali- Balinese temple - Bali - Indonesia
Typical Balinese temple entrance

The rest of Bali, the real Bali, is blessed with volcanoes, crater lakes, mountains, hot springs, cold springs, gushing rivers, waterfalls, terraced rice fields, quiet beaches, coral reefs, and rural villages.

Central Bali offers scenic mountains with hiking to terraced rice fields, waterfalls, and centuries-old trees.

Rural coasts are lined with gorgeous coral reefs, empty beaches, and stunning views.

terraced rice fields - Bali
Terraced rice fields in central Bali

Tiny traditional villages are scattered all over the island, with residents going about their daily lives as they have for centuries. Hindu festivals, ceremonies, and daily ritual offerings fill people's lives.

If you're the kind of traveler who likes to experience nature and authentic culture or if you get fed up with 'tourist-trap Bali' down south, head out around the island. Find out how amazing the real Bali is.

To that end, here are ten beautiful places to get you started, beginning from Bali's northeast coast and traveling westward.

You'll need your own transportation to reach most of these places easily, so rent a motorbike or tour the island by bicycle.

Table of Contents

  • 1. Amed
  • 2. Hot Springs in a Jungle
  • 3. Munduk
  • 4. Crater Rim Overlooking Lake Buyan and Lake Tamblingan
  • 5. Rice Fields South of Negara City

Amed coast - Bali - Indonesia

1. Amed

Amed is a charming coastal region of steep headlands and small beach-lined coves situated on Bali's far northeast coast.

The area is dotted with traditional fishing/farming villages.

In the mid-1980s, a few low-key resorts began springing up. Since then, dozens of small boutique resorts have arrived.

Fortunately, the resorts all blend into Amed's traditional villages rather than taking over.

Amed still looks, feels, and acts like a region of traditional Balinese villages.

Amed is best suited for relaxing and enjoying nature. Just offshore are superb coral reefs for snorkeling and diving.

Visitors can go sailing and fishing on traditional Balinese outriggers; suntan on quiet beaches.

Hike the many trails that meander through Amed's hills. Get a massage on the beach or poolside from village women.

Location: Bali's far northeast coast

Main attractions: traditional fishing villages, boutique resorts, beaches, coral reefs, hiking, sailing

Cost: lowest priced rooms start at 150,000 ñ 200.000 rp ($16-22 US)

Natural Hot Springs at Banjar- Bali
Lash enjoying natural hot springs at Banjar village- north Bali

2. Hot Springs in a Jungle

Have you ever lounged in a hot spring in a forest or jungle?

If so, you already know how wonderful it is. If not, Bali has a great hot spring to get you started.

The hot springs are set on a mountainside in the dense tropical forest near the tiny village of Banjar, 10 km west of Lovina on Bali's north coast.

Several large stone pools have been built in landscaped gardens under the forest.

In the evenings, the pools are extremely popular with locals who arrive in hordes with their families.

Children run, play, jump, scream, and generally turn it into a playground. If you prefer a more solitary, relaxing experience, visit in the mornings or midday.

Alternatively, there's a private pool area that few people know about, where you can relax in a hot jacuzzi under trees in complete solitude.

After entering the hot springs, follow signs for 'spa and massage' across a wooden bridge. You'll suddenly leave all the noise and commotion behind.

Location: Banjar village, turn-off about 10 km west of Lovina, then about 2 km south of Banjar.

Main attractions: hot springs set in a mountainside jungle

Cost: 5000 rp / additional 10,000 rp to enter the private 'spa' pools. ( $0.50 / $1 US)

Munduk - north central Bali
Munduk - north-central Bali

3. Munduk

If you like hiking in the mountains and admiring sweeping views of ridges, valleys, and terraced rice fields, then head to Munduk in north-central Bali.

Munduk is a typical Balinese mountain village that has opened a few homestays and hotels for tourists.

Munduk caught on first with French tourists and is now a thriving mountain 'retreat' for visitors who want to escape crowds, enjoy Munduk's cooler air, and hike.

July-September can get a bit crowded, but during other months Munduk is practically empty, save for local inhabitants.

Munduk still retains its traditional village vibe. It's primarily comprised of residents, their homes, several little shops, and local eateries set on top of a steep ridgeline.

Sprinkled in between are various small hotels and guest houses catering to Western visitors.

The Munduk region offers many hiking options- to terraced rice fields, along steep ridges, to waterfalls, and even to a huge banyan tree. Hotels provide guests with a basic hand-drawn map showing trails, roads, and attractions.

Visitors can either venture out on their own, map in hand or hire a guide to lead them.

Location: Munduk is located about 15 up a winding mountain road from Seririt city on Bali's north coast. Seririt is about 10 km west of Lovina and 20 km west of Singaraja city.

Main attractions: mountain scenery, cool air, hiking, waterfalls, terraced rice fields, Banyan tree

Costs: budget rooms start from 100,000 rp ($11 US)

Lake Buyan- Bali - Indonesia
Lake Buyan from the crater rim in Bali's central volcanic mountains

4. Crater Rim Overlooking Lake Buyan and Lake Tamblingan

The most popular volcano and crater rim in Bali is Mt. Batur.

Quite unfortunately, most of the crater rim is lined with unattractive houses, shops, tourist restaurants, and hotels.

Tourists who arrive on the main routes will be stopped and charged an admission fee to enter the area.

Also, the local inhabitants are notoriously pushy, even among Balinese. Mt. Batur has become a tourist trap.

A much quieter, undeveloped lesser-known crater rim nearby offers even more spectacular views than Batur and without the hassles. It's located west of Mt. Batur at the volcanic region containing Lake Bratan and Bedugul town.

Lake Bratan and Bedugul are also swamped with tourists.

However, just a few km northwest of Lake Bratan, across the floor of that vast crater, a road switchbacks up onto the crater rim's north side.

From there, the main road heads steeply downhill to Bali's north coast.

But another road turns west and undulates along the top for over 10 km, offering astounding views of Lake Buyan and Lake Tamblingan, located way down below.

Scattered along that crater rim drive are many superb lookout points.

A few shops and restaurants have set up tables on the edge of the crater. Visitors can stop to admire the views or drink Balinese coffee or get a meal.

Incidentally, the crater rim is about 5 km north of Munduk village.

Location: central Bali. It can be accessed from either south or north Bali. ~ 25 km south of Singaraja and Seririt, ~5 km from Munduk, ~ 3-hour drive from south Bali

Main attractions: stunning crater lake views

Cost: free

rice fields - Negara- Bali
Rice fields near Negara- southwest Bali

5. Rice Fields South of Negara City

Negara is a small city in southwest Bali. Very few Western tourists visit.

Negara city itself has few charms, but just outside of town, a vast, fertile rice-growing region runs south from Negara to the sea.

Vast tracts of flat rice fields spread out for several km in every direction.

Inland, they're backed by Bali Barat Mountains. Several paved country roads and unpaved dirt tracks weave around the rice fields.

Depending on which season you visit, you might observe field workers plowing with water buffalo, planting young rice shoots by hand in long rows, cutting rice with machetes, or bundling stalks up in huge bales.

The area is so beautiful and filled with unusual sights that it's worth a few days of exploration.

Just take any road leading south from Negara and simply wind your way through rice fields and small villages by bicycle or scooter until you eventually reach the sea.

Negara city has many small hotels catering mostly to passing Indonesian businesspeople and truck drivers.

Westerners are also welcome to stay. Try it out. Staying in a predominantly Indonesian hotel, as opposed to a tourist hotel, is a unique experience in itself.

Location: Negara city is located in far southwest Bali, about 3 hour's drive from Denpasar / Kuta / Sanur

Main attractions: gorgeous rice fields and other 'surprises' in the area

Costs: Hotels range from 100,000 rp and up. Explorations on your own are free, of course.

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You might enjoy reading Dave's impressions of Kuta, Bali's main tourist trap, and his explorations inland when he visited Bali a few years back.

________

About the Author:  Lash, an expat American who's been traveling the world solo since 1998, immerses herself in nature, culture, and the arts of countries she visits. She aims to inspire others to follow their dreams by sharing her cultural insights, narrative adventure tales, travel tips, and photos at LashWorldTour.

Lash is the author of two adventuring guidebooks to Bali, which are available in three eBook formats on LashWorldTour and in print on Amazon: Hiking in Bali / Cycling Bali

Catch up with Lash on Facebook or Twitter

Wat Arun - A Visit to Bangkok's Temple of Dawn

Wat Arun
Wat Arun from across the river

[P]roudly pointing towards the sky on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is Wat Arun, one of the most iconic structures in all of Bangkok.

Also known as The Temple of Dawn or The Temple of the Rising Sun, this majestic Buddhist temple is named in recognition of the Hindu and Buddhist deity that governs the early morning.

As the sun makes its morning appearance over the waters of the river, an impressive shimmering light reflects from the temple like a shining cut diamond and ushers in another day in Bangkok.

From across the river, Wat Arun looks so small, yet its magnitude becomes so much grander when you reach the base.

Bangkok is one of the must see destinations in Southeast Asia and Wat Arun shouldn't be missed when you're there!

At the base of Wat Arun
At the base of Wat Arun

Since the majority of Bangkok's central attractions and city life are located on the Eastern side of the river, it's often necessary to catch a ferry across the river to visit the temple.

Adjacent to Wat Pho, you can easily board a ferry that costs just 3 Thai Baht ($0.10) and drops you off at a dock right at the door step of Wat Arun.

The design of the temple is Khmer style with features that resemble the temples of Angkor Wat.

The main tower rises 70 - 80 meters in height (there really is some confusion and argument as to the real height of the main stupa) and there are four surrounding stupas which together make up the main part of the temple.

A few details of Wat Arun
A few details of Wat Arun

As with many temples in Southeast Asia (or around the world for that matter), the construction and architecture are amazing, but taking the time to pay attention to the intricate details also makes it fascinating.

The entirety of the temple is layered with ancient Thai sculptures and patterns and decorated with a mosaic of brightly colored ceramics. The impressive details are evidence of countless hours of meticulous work and amazing craftsmanship.

Climbing the staircase to the top level
Climbing the staircase to the top level

For me the highlight of visiting Wat Arun is climbing the vertical staircase to the top level.

If you are afraid of heights (I am slightly), the ascent to the top can be a little nerve-racking, though you'll be glad you took on the challenge.

The staircase, which is more of a ladder made from steps about 5 inches wide, first leads to the middle level and then goes further up to the lookout deck.

View from Wat Arun
View from Wat Arun

The view from the top (which is really only at about the middle of the temple's overall height) offers a spectacular glimpse of the Chao Phraya River and the surrounding landmarks of Bangkok.

The cool breeze (as in relative comparison to the muggy humidity of ground level Bangkok), the crackle of speed boats zooming along the river, and the noticeable diversity of ancient Bangkok in the backdrop of the modern city, all add to the view.

No matter how packed ones Bangkok travel itinerary is, making time for Wat Arun and climbing the ancient steps for the magnificent view of the city is a must.

Basic Tips for the First Time Traveler to China

Chinese sunset
A beautiful Chinese sunset.

China, for me, was a little overwhelming. More overwhelming than the first time I traveled to Kyrgyzstan by myself and moved in with a local family.

More overwhelming probably for a number of reasons: the language, the size, the highly populated cities.

It was, however, my first time visiting, and I think China might take some people a little bit more time to get accustomed to.

Here are the basic tips and insight for the first time traveler that I picked up on my first trip.

Chinese words
Chinese words, or gibberish? (photo: ivanwalsh)

Table of Contents

  • Language
  • Counting
  • Toilets
  • Hygiene
  • Food
  • Comfort

Language

It's difficult. Unlike romance languages that use the same alphabet as English or even Russian that uses a few of the same letters as English, the Chinese symbols are basically indecipherable to the untrained eye.

Unless you happen to run into an English speaker on the streets, then getting around is extremely hard - especially when taxi drivers just decide to leave you in the dust instead of trying to put up with charades.

Tips

Learn some simple Mandarin or Cantonese (depending on where you're going in advance).

Learn the words for hotel, food, drink, how much, and thank you. Numbers, thankfully, you can do by hands gestures (see below), but for everything else, you might want to invest in a language learning or translation app for your iPhone.

Whenever the opportunity presents itself, always have your hotel or hostel write down the name for things in Chinese as it will help you heaps!

Chinese number gestures
Chinese number gestures (images by Ningling on Wikimedia Commons)

Counting

Chinese people have a simple way of showing numbers using one hand.

When an American girl in our hostel let us in on this little tip, taxis became so much easier!

Tips

Get the gestures down before arriving. Know that when a taxi driver flashes the symbol for 6, they most likely mean the fare is 60, and so on.

public squat toilets
Squat toilets with no doors (photo: robbenals)

Toilets

Toilets are probably the one single place where I would really, really enjoy both privacy and the ability to sit down.

Unfortunately, you don't get much of either in China.

Get used to the ways of the squat toilet, as they are everywhere. Also, you might want to get used to the idea of walking in on someone else in the loo.

I had my first encounter with what one might call a "trough" toilet with no walls or doors as soon as I crossed the border, and sure enough, other people taking care of business next to you is only a cause for alarm for you, and you alone.

Tips

You might want to read my guide to mastering squat toilets for females and then start building up your leg muscles in advance.

If you need some privacy or a place to sit, I suggest heading to a Western establishment for a toilet.

no spitting
No spitting sign - there should be more of these (photo: philliecasablanca)

Hygiene

The hygiene aspect of China, since I'm a little bit of a germaphobe, was extremely hard to deal with.

Everywhere I looked people were hocking loogies - even indoors, at supermarkets, next to fresh fruit and veggies.

The sound alone makes me cringe.

Coughing and sneezing seemed to usually be free-flowing, so if you see someone about to sneeze, keep your distance.

Perhaps you'll be luckier than when a guard coughed directly on my hand as I gave him my passport.

Tips

Always carry extra tissues and hand sanitizer when traveling in China - especially for the toilet situation.

Food in China
Food in China (photo: ullrich)

Food

The Chinese palette varies quite extensively from that of the Western world.

A big emphasis is on textures, eating strange parts of an animal (chicken feet, intestines, and fat), and eating strange things in general (think starfish or scorpions on a stick).

Chinese food is often sitting in an entire pool of oil when served.

Even though you use chopsticks and are not spooning large amounts of oil onto your rice, Western stomachs still might have a hard time adjusting.

Sichuan pepper is popular in certain parts of the country, and I personally find it tasty in very small amounts.

These peppers actually provide a numbing or tingling sensation to your mouth, so when the food is swimming in peppercorns and oil, it is often too overpowering.

Be aware and avoid if necessary.

Tips

Hit it up with an adventurous spirit!

Order white rice with your meals as it both soaks up the oil of the dish and acts as a filler if you happen to come across food you don't quite enjoy.

Tea is also a must for drinking with oily meals.

If there is ever a dish or ingredient you discover you don't enjoy, learn the word for it so you can avoid it in the future.

Comfort

Western hotels will cater to Western customers, but smaller establishments and hostels are more likely to provide the Chinese standard of rice pillows and hardwood mattresses.

Some people say this stiff setup is good for your back, but I beg to differ.

Tips

Sometimes it might be better to make your own pillow out of a shirt stuffed with other soft clothes.

Otherwise, you can try packing a travel pillow for your time in China.

Why I Traded My Backpack for Wheeled Luggage

I type this post with a heavy heart. After 14 years and 40 countries, I've given away my trusty Gregory Chaos backpack. This was the first and only one I bought as I began traveling the world on my own.

Gregory Chaos backpack.
Gregory Chaos backpack

It has been beaten up, kicked across countless bus station and airport floors, thrown atop buses, and tossed in and out of many a boat. Yes, it's a bit dirty, but it's still fully functional. I have no doubt it'll last longer on Earth than me.

I donated it to a hostel, which will give it to the local community. Why did the guy who had been blogging about backpacking for six years give it away?

Lower back pain. It struck a few days after I arrived in Lima, following an arduous 26-hour bus ride from La Paz, Bolivia. It started as mild discomfort, but when it didn't go away after a few weeks, I went to see a doctor. He ordered X-rays and proceeded to point out the areas where the bones in my lower back didn't quite come together like normal.

It's a congenital variation I was born with and will have to live with for the rest of my life. It's neither serious nor is there anything that can be done about it. I'm left with the knowledge that it makes me prone to bouts of lower back pain.

Instead of surgery or drugs, I need to focus on:

  • Improving my posture.
  • Strengthening and stretching the right muscles.
  • Reducing the amount of time I spend sitting at any one time.
  • Taking a protective approach toward lifting and carrying heavy things.
The North Face Overhead wheeled luggage.
The North Face Overhead

As much as I wanted to switch to a daypack and travel super light, ANY weight on my shoulders was aggravating my lower back pain. So I switched to the dark side and bought the Overhead by The North Face.

Although it was more expensive than the other options, it appears sturdy, durable, and a bit more stylish. The red and black are the same colors as my Gregory backpack.

The North Face Overhead
I wanted travel luggage that could be used as a carry-on, though I would still prefer to check this bag rather than roll it around the airport.

There's less space in the Overhead than in my backpack, so this change still forces me to get rid of some clothes I've been toting around South America for the last year.

One of the things I like about this product is the second, smaller pouch into which I can slip my 13" MacBook Air laptop if I want to take the bag as carry-on luggage. I prefer this option, even if I don't always use it.

Never Stop Exploring
The handle features The North Face Logo, "Never Stop Exploring," a friendly reminder as I travel the world.

The rubber handle offers a good grip, and a red plastic button on the side allows you to extend and compress the handle. It works very smoothly, at least for now.

It might seem like a small detail, but including The North Face's motto on the handle won big points with me. If I can't be toting around a well-worn backpack to broadcast my adventures, at least these words will help instead. Unless The North Face has become so utterly commercial by this point, it means diddly-squat. Either way, it makes me happy.

Are you visiting my blog for a backpack, not wheeled luggage? Read this review and see the benefits of getting a versatile one.

North Face wheeled luggage.
The handle extends to a comfortable height, and there's also a midway position.

After taking it on a test run from Lima to Medellin, I noticed several pros and cons to using wheeled luggage.

Pro's

  • Less stress on shoulders, neck, and back in most travel circumstances.
  • I feel like a grown-up.
  • Looks more professional.
  • Easier to find stuff, pack, and unpack.

Con's

  • You can't move as quickly and easily as you can with a backpack. For example, it's harder to bypass pedestrians on a crowded sidewalk.
  • Rolling the luggage on a smooth airport floor is nice, but it can be bumpy on rough and cracked sidewalks.
  • You still have to lift it and put it in taxis or overhead luggage bins, so it's not a complete savior for my lower back.
  • You can't easily walk down a beach, forest, or jungle trail. You'd have to carry it, which would be way more stressful than a backpack.
  • The zippers in the main compartment do not curve to the bottom of the bag, so you can't fully flip the cover 180 degrees. This makes packing and unpacking the bag a little more cumbersome than necessary.

As you can tell, it's still a toss-up for me regarding which is better. But until my back is pain-free again, and possibly from here on out, I don't have a choice. If I'm going Ieling, I want it to be pain-free.

Top 5 Countries for Meat Lovers

Meat is not only tasty, but it's a significant source of protein in human diets around the world.

Here are five countries for meat lovers where carnivores can rejoice!

Meat lovers would love this dish in Uruguay.
Meat platter in Uruguay

Table of Contents

  • 1. Argentina and Uruguay
  • 2. The Philippines
  • 3. South Korea
  • 4. Kenya
  • 5. United States

1. Argentina and Uruguay

After graduating from university, I headed to Argentina to enroll in a TESOL course.

Still, instead of becoming an English teacher, I discovered beef and parillas.

Yes, I've always loved beef, but the meat in Argentina was so much more natural tasting, and it was incredibly cheap compared to American prices.

Due to my excitement, I put my body to the test, heading to the market each evening after class, purchasing a 1-kilo slab and pan-frying it.

The beef was so good, and my patience was short; I often seared the outside and ate the interior raw.

Then I took a short trip to Uruguay to discover an almost identical carnivorous culture.

The platter pictured above, eaten at Montevideo's Mercado del Puerto, was one of my all-time most memorable meat-filled meals.

Note: Included together as meat is prepared very similarly in both countries.

Filipino sisig (photo: Shubert Ciencia)
Filipino sisig (photo: Shubert Ciencia)

2. The Philippines

While nearly all meats and forms of seafood are present in Filipino cuisine, the pig still takes the prized position on the plate.

When it comes to food in the Philippines, if the dish's main ingredient isn't pork, bits of pork or pork fat are likely used to flavor it.

Sisig, a sizzling platter of chopped-up pig's face and pork parts, is so prevalent in the Philippines it has become a national culinary treasure.

The chewy fat becomes crunchy on the skillet and is flavored with salt and a squeeze of calamansi juice (a cross between an orange and lime).

Meat lovers will find many such heavenly dishes in the Phillippines. 

Korean barbecue
Korean barbecue

3. South Korea

There's nothing more entertaining and delicious at the same time as a Korean barbecue.

The all-important grill is in the center of the table, and it's your task to cook the meat right before your nose.

Many types of meat are available (mostly beef and pork), marinated in tasty flavors and of various cuts and qualities.

I was particularly fond of pork bulgogi, but samgyeopsal pork belly is one of the country's most popular pieces of meat.

Korean meat is often eaten with lettuce leaves, chilies, and garlic and washed down with soju.

Kenyan roasted meat, a meat lover's dream.
Kenyan roasted meat

4. Kenya

While beef is consumed widely, goat is the East African standard. Nyama choma, or roasted meat, is one of the highlights of a visit to Kenya.

In Kenya, patience is a virtue, and at many of the most popular meat joints, you select raw meat from the butcher, who will then throw it on the grill as you wait for it to roast slowly.

Sometimes it can take over an hour or longer, but the wait is well worth the final product.

Nyama choma is prepared plain, sliced on a chopping board, and served alongside a pile of salt and sliced chilies.

Steak sandwich
Steak sandwich

5. United States

Whether loaded into a sandwich, placed between buns, or grilled with a T-bone intact, meat is never far from any meal in the United States.

American meat lovers can't get enough of cows; still, lamb, pork, and chicken are all available and extremely popular.

Steaks, ribs, burgers, and hot dogs are among the more famous carnivorous dishes on a carnivore diet, but with the country's cultural diversity, there are no limits on meat-filled dining options in the United States.

Cool in Cambodia

Meta House in Phnom Penh
Meta House in Phnom Penh (photo: epidemiks)

[C]ambodia is famous for its shrines, temples, the magnificent Angkor Wat and of course the tragic rule of the Khmer Rouge that decimated the country’s population.

Travel to Phnom Penh, the capital, today and you’ll find a city that is in a state of transition and making its own mark on 21st century culture.

Current Chic

Phnom Penh is undergoing something of a transformation with the opening of new art galleries, nightclubs and a resurging interest in film, and anyone looking for a more authentic escape in Cambodia should head for this city.

Before the war the capital always did have a reputation, as a ‘happening’ place and it’s good to see that this tradition has reasserted itself.

An Australian musician is currently advertising on the net of his proposal to move to the city and set up a new music venue with the possible collaboration of ‘Tiny Toones’ – the Cambodian NGO that uses ‘break dancing and hip hop to engage and inspire’ the youth of Cambodia’.

Look out for the September opening of the organisation’s ‘Dance School Challenge.’

Art

Another example of the growth of contemporary culture is the newly opened ‘La Galleria’ that displays the work of emerging Cambodian artists. The gallery is run by 34 year old internationally shown Cambodian artist Em Riem.

The current emphasis among Cambodian artists is of the future and melding the history of the country to create a more optimistic present.

Previously and understandably Cambodian artists tended to dwell on the legacy and the horrors of the Pol Pot regime.

Meta Art

In the centre of Phnom Penh, on Boulevard Sothearos, is an intriguing development between the Berlin’s Free University and a Cambodian team.

The ‘Meta House’ is a cultural centre featuring a cinema, art gallery and a restaurant.

The primary aim of this centre is to promote Cambodia’s cultural activities under one roof and this September it will host a short season of films, entitled, ‘Freedom to Express Yourself.’

Music

Many of those who visit Cambodia on a backpacking trip often tend to stay and put down roots in the capital.

The collaboration between Western and Eastern music was made popular in the film ‘City of Ghosts’ where the music was provided by Khmer musicians of the 1960s who were killed during the war.

The new generation of musicians in Phnom Penh are finding their feet and one of the most exciting places to hang out and hear Cambodian contemporary music is at ‘Equinox’ or you could head down to the Waterfront and spend some time at the amusingly entitled ‘Mao’s Pub, ‘ a rapidly growing Mecca for cool sounds.

Recently Tiger Translate put on a sell out show at Phnom Penh’s Central Railway station. Artists as diverse as local star Preap Sovath shared the stage with Australian hip-hop act ‘Astronomy Class.’

This developing scene in Cambodia is constantly evolving, every month yet another art gallery or club is opening in downtown Phnom Penh, if all this activity proves rather hectic, just pop into ‘Chinese House’ on Sisowath Quay and enjoy a relaxing Mojito.

_________

About the Author: Kian is part of the team at Travel Indochina and has travelled extensively throughout Asia. Next on this list is India and he recently returned from Vietnam. Top Asia travel tip: find one of those plastic street-side chairs; order a beer then, sit, watch and listen! Check out Kian's Google+ profile

Fall Travel Update

El Castillo in Poblado
A paisa celebrates her 15th birthday with photos taken outside El Castillo, a castle in Medellin

I feel as though I've come full circle. I left Medellin, Colombia last August to see the rest of South America.

Highlights from my time away include:

  • Ecuador and an 8-day cruise in the Galapagos Islands
  • Peru and the 5-day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu
  • Living in Lima for 5 months
  • Two weeks traveling Patagonia with G Adventures
  • Ice climbing on a glacier for the first time
  • Living in Buenos Aires for 6 weeks, and taking tango lessons
  • Traveling the coast of Uruguay
  • Chile and sandboarding in the Atacama Desert
  • Bolivia and the Salt Flats of Uyuni

I'm way behind in writing about my time in Argentina, Uruguay, Chile, and Bolivia. To catch up, I'll have to be much more selective about the stories I write, though I may do a few shorter posts to fill in the gaps.

As exciting as the last 12 months have been, I've got epic travel plans ahead of me to finish out 2012.

Table of Contents

  • Medellin, Colombia
  • Miami, Florida
  • Iceland
  • Costa Brava, Spain
  • Oktoberfest in Munich, and Germany
  • Mystery Trip
  • London, England
  • Other Possible Destinations

Medellin, Colombia

I'm currently catching up with friends and work in Medellin. The lush, semi-tropical climate is a far cry from the greyness and cooler temps of Lima this time of year.

I had my reasons for spending so much time in Lima, but the scenery wasn't one of them.

In addition to seeing friends, I'm trying lots of new restaurants, and am excited to see progress in the Medellin food scene since I left last year.

Miami, Florida

After Medellin, it's off to Miami, where I'll actually be stepping out of the airport for the first time (ever).

I'm excited to be couchsurfing with Danny and Jillian from I Should Log Off. Ironically, we first met in Bogota a few years ago.

I'm also super excited to finally meet Jason and Aracely from 2 Backpackers. I've been following them for years.

In Miami, I'm specifically interested in seeing South Beach and Little Havana.

If I ever do settle back in the USA, Miami would be a top contender given the easy and direct access it offers to Latin America and the Caribbean.

From Miami, I'll head west to visit my parents for a few days outside Tampa Bay.

Reykjavik, Iceland
View of Reykjavik from atop Hallgrímskirkja, the largest church in Iceland

Iceland

I've heard so many good things about Iceland over the last few years, I can't resist stopping over for 10 days on my way to mainland Europe in September.

The unique geothermal activity and scenery should make for lots of good photos. And I'm hoping to catch the Aurora Borealis if it's not too early in the Winter season.

If my lower back is feeling better, I'd like to go ice climbing again too.

Costa Brava, Spain

I left Spain almost four years ago, as my trip around the world was winding to a close.

I'm going back this year for the annual (European) Travel Blog Exchange conference, which is being held in Girona, just north of Barcelona.

Spending so much time in South America in the last few years has meant missing travel writing and blogging conferences, which are mainly held in North America and Europe.

I'm looking forward to catching up with old friends and making some new ones.

Drinking Oktoberfest beer
Drinking Oktoberfest beer

Oktoberfest in Munich, and Germany

It just so happens that the end of TBEX coincides with the start of Oktoberfest, that annual drunken beer festival, in Munich, Germany.

I skipped Germany on my previous visits to Europe, therefore I'm overdue and this seems like the perfect occasion.

I've already found a place to stay, thanks to Martin, my old German roommate from Medellin.

From Munich, I'll do a little sightseeing, and head up to Berlin for a few days.

Mystery Trip

I can't share the details yet, but I've got a tentative trip lined up for a destination far, far away.

London, England

In early November, I'll head to London for the annual World Travel Market exhibition.

This is all business, as I'll be looking to make contact with travel companies and destinations from around the world.

Plus, I have a few friends from my travels that I'd love to catch up with in person.

Other Possible Destinations

I'll be heading back to Tampa, Florida for Christmas, so that means I've still got lots of time to fill in my itinerary.

If you'd like to make a suggestion, let me know where I should go in the comments below!

The MBK Shopping Mall in Bangkok: Long Layover Heaven

MBK
MBK Shopping Mall (photo by laikt8)

There's a place in the heart of Bangkok that every woman should know about. Heck – every man should know about it, too!

It's called MBK, and it is the easiest and most exciting place to buy bags of cheap clothes in Thailand, and doing so on a long layover is even better!

I got word of MBK from Adventurous Kate. On my last trip to study Russian in Kyrgyzstan in November 2011, I had a day to get to know Bangkok on the way home.

Definitely not a lot of time to get acquainted with the huge, bustling city, I asked for recommendations from other travelers on Facebook to which Kate suggested I do some shopping at MBK.

After getting settled at my hostel, I hopped a ride to MBK and immediately discovered what the fuss was all about!

MBK was so much fun, I took my boyfriend there on our overnight layover in Bangkok just a couple of weeks ago.

MBK

MBK, or Mah Boon Krong in long Thai form, presents itself as the shopping mall of shopping malls.

That's 8 floors of bags, clothes, shoes, electronics, and food – over 2000 stalls all in one place and ready for the eager eyes of foreigners with money to spend.

No, it's not designer quality merchandise, but with so much to offer, it serves its purpose well.

MBK opened in 1986 and covers over 89,000 square meters of shopping goodness.

It consists of:

  • Clothes and handbags predominantly on the bottom levels
  • Electronics and mobile phones on the 4th floor
  • Fifth Food Avenue and international food court on the 5th floor
  • Tokyu Department Store which covers 4 floors

It seemed that many of the shops go off a sticker price, but bargaining is still fair game at MBK.

Perks of shopping at MBK:

  • Air conditioned facilities. The extremely humid climate of Thailand can be overwhelming, so the fact there is a giant, free air conditioned building to hang out in all day is a big plus.
  • Everything is in one building. Want shoes, shirts, make-up, bags, food, electronics and furniture? It's all right there in MBK!
  • Discounts and bargains. Not only are the prices right at MBK, but bargaining can get you even better deals!

Inside MBK shopping center
Inside MBK shopping center (photo by jetalone)

Attacking MBK

Time disappears in MBK. One minute you'll be lost trying on shoes and the next minute, you'll look at your watch and see that an hour has passed and you've only just moved to the next stall filled with leather handbags.

If you're on a long layover in Bangkok, and therefore have limited shopping time, be prepared:

Have an idea of what you want to buy in advance.

Need a new handbag? Make that the priority.

Shopping for souvenirs? Make a list and stick to it.

I mean it when I say that time disappears in that mall!

Don't spend too much time considering a single purchase.

If you're not sure if the item is right for you, just take note (a quick iPhone photo of the shop/product will do) and move on to the next.

There are dozens of every kind of shop in MBK; you'll find something else!

Bring some water.

You don't want to get dehydrated shopping (yes, I'm serious) and not be able to focus on the task at hand.

Even if you don't bring one, there are several fast food restaurants and shops that will sell beverages.

MBK food court
Food from the MBK food court (photo by jetalone)

Enjoy a Meal at MBK

As mentioned above, the 5th floor of MBK holds a food court, and regardless of it being a food court in a shopping mall, you can get some pretty decent international and local food there.

My boyfriend and I had but an evening to enjoy Bangkok and fill our bags with as many pieces of bargain clothing as possible, so we dined at MBK, too.

Greek, Mexican, Chinese, and vegetarian were all at our fingertips, but we decided to go with Indonesian and Thai – about enough for 5 people in fact – and were not disappointed in the least.

Even better was the fact that we got to enjoy our fresh cooked food to live music from a Thai band, singing mostly in English.

One the main shopping levels of MBK, one can find Auntie Anne's pretzels, Pizza Hut, Dairy Queen, McDonald's, and much more.

Final Tip

If you only have a layover to enjoy the shopping bliss of MBK, I suggest doing your best to leave that for your trip home.

We loved being able to shop without having to worry about carrying the goods around with us from country to country.

The Wireless Generation

I'm super excited to be a part of this documentary. Christine and Drew are in the final stretch of editing and releasing it, but they need our support.

I've already made my pledge. Now it's your turn!

5 Must-Visit Museums in Bruges

Anyone interested in fun and fascinating museums should look no further than Bruges. The city is jam-packed with some of the world's finest and most unusual museums, from contemporary art to chocolate.

Visit Hotels4U for a range of accommodations in Bruges that allows visitors to wander around some of the top museums in the city. Here are some of the most exciting museums in Bruges that you must visit.

Table of Contents

  • Bruges Museums
    • Groeninge Museum
    • Gruuthuse Museum
    • Choco-Story Museum
    • Diamond Museum
    • Friet Museum

Bruges Museums

Groeninge Museum

Groeninge Museum
Groeninge Museum (photo: Zooey_)

With paintings from the 15th and 19th centuries, the Groeninge Museum is a place for art lovers. It covers works by Belgian and Flemish artists, including Jan van Eyck and Marcel Broodthaers.

Works cover a variety of art eras, such as the Renaissance, neo-classical, and realist periods.

One particular highlight is Jan van Eyck's "The Madonna with Canon Joris van der Paele" from the early 15th century, which should not be missed.

Related: Best Things to Do in Ghent

Gruuthuse Museum

Gruuthuse Museum
Gruuthuse Museum (photo: Fhwrdh)

It's not all about art museums and galleries in Bruges, though. Although it does contain various paintings, the Gruuthuse Museum is home to a range of silverware, textiles, ceramics, and much more.

The museum was once an impressive mansion that belonged to a wealthy family in the city and can be found behind the Church of Our Lady.

Click here for affordable hotels in the area, which make the perfect base for visiting the Gruuthuse Museum.

Choco-Story Museum

Choco-Story Museum
Choco-Story Museum (photo: Hans Splinter)

No visit to Belgium is complete without sampling some of the country's delicious chocolate.

It may be a bit of a stereotype, but chocolate is one of Belgium's finest exports, and the Choco-Story Museum in Bruges celebrates this.

Visitors can follow the story and development of their favorite treat, including its properties, processes, and chocolate-making equipment, as well as facts about Belgian chocolate. It must contain at least 35% pure cocoa to be called chocolate!

Diamond Museum

Diamonds
Diamond Museum (photo: James Whatley)

As one of the only five-diamond museums globally, this fantastic museum celebrates the art of diamond polishing, invented in the city during the 15th century.

The museum boasts many rare objects, including a replica of the crown of Margaret of York, which was handmade in Bruges.

The best thing about the diamond museum (diamondmuseum.be) is the thousands of genuine diamonds dotted around (behind locked cabinets, obviously) and the polishing demonstration that takes place every day at around midday.

Friet Museum

Portion of Chips
A portion of chips (photo: avlxyz)

As well as chocolate, Bruges celebrates all the food we love most, as it also has its Chip Museum!

As the famous chip is said to have originated in Belgium, the Friet Museum is the only museum in the world dedicated to our favorite fast food snack.

A portion of chips and mayo is also included in the entrance fee, making this unusual museum a great place to cheer you up when the chips are down.

___________

This post was written and brought to you by Hotels4U.

Adventure Capitalist Book Review

Adventure CapitalistAdventure Capitalist is the story of Jim Rogers, a Wall Street investor who made a gazillion dollars, retired at 37, and then proceeded to spend three years driving  around the world with his soon-to-be wife.

It wasn't his first long term trip.

That one came in the early 90's when he rode a motorcycle around the world, a journey documented in his first book, Investment Biker: Around the World with Jim Rogers.

Getting back to Adventure Capitalist, I first heard about the book a few months ago, when my day trading friend, Marcello, passed through Lima.

My curiosity piqued, I bought a Kindle copy, and dug in.

Jim kicks off his tale with some brief biographical info, as well as the story of how he met his wife, Paige, and invited her along on his upcoming trip.

He also details, in great length, why he wanted to drive a Mercedes, and how he was gifted a custom model by the company.

I didn't think much of the car, until I saw some of the photos later in the book, at which point it looked silly. It was a hardtop convertible on a monster truck's suspension.

But it was clearly a hit with the locals wherever he went, and it managed to get them through blizzards in Iceland, as well as the desert sands of Africa.

The trip begins with a circumnavigation of Iceland (where I'll be heading in September), and continues on through Europe.

It gets more interesting as he crosses into Africa, and proceeds down the west coast, through the south, and then up the east coast. Their time in Africa reminded me of one of my favorite books, Dark Star Safari, by Paul Theroux.

After Africa, they drove into the Middle East, having managed against all odds to get a visa for Saudi Arabia, among other countries.

From there, it's through central Asia and China, and down to Australia. The journey ends with a classic drive across the USA.

Throughout Adventure Capitalist, which covers more than 100 countries, Jim shares his perspectives and observations on each destination as both a tourist, and a potential investor.

The book cover has a tagline that states "profitable lessons from a record-setting drive around the world" but I think that's more marketing than reality.

He offered high level observations, and a few pieces of practical advice from time to time, but this is hardly a practical guide to foreign investment.

I'm not much of a finance guy, so I was glad he didn't go into too much detail in that regard. The only part of the book where I found the financial talk overbearing was at the end, once he'd arrived back in the USA, and felt the need to provide a history lesson.

Adventure Capitalist offers readers the chance to join Jim and Paige on an epic journey, through some of the most dangerous, worn-torn parts of the world. Whether you're an armchair traveler, or a serious investor, it's an entertaining read.

Adventure Capitalist is available in Kindle and paperback on Amazon.com.

A Day Tour of Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam, is an ancient city that surges with energy, and there are more than enough attractions to warrant a day-long tour.

Local tradition is a big part of the culture, yet the rise of modernization and the boom of industrialization has transformed Hanoi into a city that never seems to slow down or take a break.

View of Hanoi, Vietnam
View of Hanoi, Vietnam

The historical attractions, the continuous markets, and the stunning array of cuisine make Hanoi a perfect place to let yourself loose and explore.

Mornings, or even afternoons and evenings, should always begin with a few cups of Vietnamese coffee.

Morning coffee stop on a day tour of Hanoi, Vietnam
Morning coffee stop

Introduced by the French during colonization, Vietnam became addicted to dark roasts and strong brews.

While I usually enjoy hot, plain black, unsweetened coffee, Vietnamese iced "ca phe sua da," which includes a ton of sweetened condensed milk, hits the spot on a warm day.

Always busy streets of Hanoi
Always busy streets of Hanoi

The Old Quarter of Hanoi is one of the town's original and most congested sections. Motorbikes zoom through the narrow roads and lanes while stores and restaurants line the streets and sprawl onto the road.

Each building in the Old Quarter is unique, and I was amazed at the architecture and construction.  Delicious restaurants, stores selling everything imaginable, hotels, and bars are all ubiquitous throughout the Old Quarter.

Hoan Kiem Lake
Hoan Kiem Lake

Located adjacent to the Old Quarter is Hoan Kiem Lake, a landmark and popular gathering place in Hanoi for tourists and locals alike. The water is famous for its deep green color.

The Ngoc Son Temple, located on a small island within the lake, is reached by crossing the red-painted Huc Bridge. The distinguishable bridge is a favorite place to stop and take photos.

Hoan Kiem Lake is a place that invites anyone on a tour of Hanoi to eat an ice cream cone while taking a meandering stroll that strictly focuses on relaxation.

Travel Tip: Search and book bus, ferry, train, and private transfers in Hanoi and throughout Vietnam with Bookaway.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Ho Chi Minh was a revolutionary leader and one of Vietnam's most influential founding fathers. Often referred to as Uncle Ho, he remains embalmed and displayed at his mausoleum in Hanoi.

Every day, the mausoleum is open to visitors from 9 a.m. to 12 p.m., and thousands come to show their honor and respect. If you go, adhere to the strict dress code and visiting guidelines.

As one of the most important Buddhist temples in Hanoi, I wasn't all that impressed just by the outward appearance of the One Pillar Pagoda.

One Pillar Pagoda
One Pillar Pagoda

I developed an appreciation of the temple after reading about its historical significance and what it represents.

The emperor in the 11th century had no offspring, and one night, he had a dream where a Bodhisattva presented him with a child sitting on a lotus plant. He built the one-pillar pagoda to honor this vision, and its legend lives on.

The Temple of Literature, devoted to Confucius, is one of the most famous attractions in Hanoi.

The Temple of Literature is a must-see landmark during a tour of Hanoi
The Temple of Literature

The ancient temple was home to Vietnam's first national university and houses art, stelae, statues, engravings, and shrines.

Observing the layout and surrounding courtyards is also a highlight of visiting the temple, which was constructed in a similar design to the place where Confucius was born.

Vietnamese food is tasty, fresh, and often supplemented by many vibrant herbs. Throughout the day and night, people take to the streets for some of the city's most satisfying meals.

Though pho (chicken or beef noodle soup) is the most iconic dish of Vietnam, it was something known as bun cha that satisfied my taste buds.

Bun Cha
Bun Cha

The combination of chopped grilled pork tossed into a sweet and sour soup, accompanied by rice noodles and herbs, and garnished with chilies and minced garlic is a flavor I'll cherish forever.

The greatest thing about Hanoi is that you can never know precisely what you'll discover. Each day is new and allows you to see, eat, or experience something you've never done before.

Exciting, fascinating, and always entertaining characterizes a tour of Hanoi.

Wildlife in the Tambopata National Reserve

A Jaguar in Tambopata
A Jaguar in Tambopata (photo: Thomas Marrent)

This photo essay features the beautiful and varied wildlife of the Tambopata National Reserve in southeastern Peru.

During my week in the Amazon, the shortcomings of my compact Canon S100 became abundantly clear.

This post includes a few of my photos but is predominantly the work of Jeff Cremer, who runs photography tours and workshops through Rainforest Expeditions.

I saw everything in these photos, and much more. The one exception is the Giant River Otter, which was too cute to leave out on such a minor technicality.

Squirrel Monkey
Squirrel Monkey (photo: Jeff Cremer)

Saddle Back Tamarin
Saddle Back Tamarin (photo: Jeff Cremer)

Howler Monkey
Howler Monkeys are currently the loudest animals on Earth (photo: Jeff Cremer)

Dusky Titi Monkey
Dusky Titi Monkey (photo: Dominique and Christine Bailliez)

Capybara, the world's largest rodents
Capybara, the world's largest rodents, are seen feeding along the Tambopata River

River Otters are increasingly rare in Tambopata
A rare spotting of a Giant River Otter (photo: Jeff Cremer)

Bats at Oxbow Lake
Bats are well camouflaged against the underside of this tree at Oxbow Lake

Caiman
Caiman (photo: Jeff Cremer)

Skink
A Skink hanging out beside a dead tree trunk

Scarlet Macaws in flight
A pair of Scarlet Macaws in flight (photo: Jeff Cremer)

A variety of parrots feeding at a clay lick
A variety of colorful Parrots feeding at a clay lick (photo: Jeff Cremer)

A pair of blue and yellow Macaws
A pair of Blue and Yellow Macaws in flight (photo: Jeff Cremer)

Roadside Hawk
Roadside Hawk (photo: Jeff Cremer)

Amazon Kingfisher
Amazon Kingfisher (photo: Jeff Cremer)

 

Disclosure: This tour was in partnership with Rainforest Expeditions. As always, any opinions expressed are entirely my own.

____________

Lima Travel GuideDave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.

The Truth About Deadly Animals in Australia

Jellyfish warning sign on a Queensland beach.
Jellyfish warning sign on a Queensland beach.

I moved to Australia in March of 2009. As hard as it is to believe, I've been here for about 3.5 years, and guess what - I'm still alive!

With all the hype on Australia having one of the harshest climates and being home to the world's deadliest creatures, you know... not very many people have actually died from them.

Still, it is one of the first things I hear about from family and friends back home.

"Oh, I couldn't go there! They have so many snakes and spiders that can kill you!"

True. There are plenty of things that could kill you (and it's probably a good idea to have comprehensive travel insurance), but the facts point to driving and even horseback riding to being deadlier in nature.

Here are the facts about Australia's deadly animals!

Funnelweb spider
The funnel-web spider is not a pretty sight (photo: Brenda-Starr)

Table of Contents

  • Spiders
  • Sharks
  • Snakes
  • Crocodiles
  • Box Jellyfish
  • Pin for Later

Spiders

In the past 3.5 years, I've been face-to-face with several arachnids - most of them being simple orb spiders or the ugly, ugly huntsman.

Those, luckily, are not dangerous to humans in the least.

On the dangerous end of the scale, I've heard of a friend finding a Sydney funnel-web in his basement (not too far from my home) and my flatmates finding a Redback Spider out on our front porch.

Yes, both of these spiders are considered to be some of the deadliest in the world because of their potential, but the fact is they rarely kill.

The Redback Spider, a relation to the black widow, bite actually only affects about 10% of people who have an adverse reaction to the venom.

You'll be happy to know that no person has died from a spider-related bite since 1979, as antivenom is now available for all native species.

Great White Shark
Great White shark (photo: Dave Lee)

Sharks

Australia is an island country, with close to 60,000 kilometers of coastline and deep ocean in its surrounds.

These oceans are home to Great White sharks, Tiger sharks, and Bull sharks.

Okay, so it's been a bad year for shark attacks, especially off the coast of Western Australia, but hear me out.

According to an article from Australian Geographic, of the 877 shark attacks in Australia since 1791, that's over 221 years, only 216 have been fatal.

That works out to be about one fatality per year.

Since 2000, the number has been a little more at just two fatalities per year.

Eastern Brown Snake
The eastern brown snake - deadly. (photo by Justin Otter)

Snakes

The world's deadliest land snake, the taipan, calls Western Australia home.

Besides that, you can find the brown snake, the death adder, and the tiger snake - all of which are considered the world's deadliest.

Sure, snakes are a scary business in Australia, but how scary?

It turns out that up to 3000 Australians get bit by snakes each year, but just an average of two a year are fatal.

Of those, the majority are caused by the brown snake.

Crocodiles
Crocodiles (photo by HooLengSiong)

Crocodiles

I must admit, it is a little off-putting when you reach the most spectacular and gorgeous beach in the tropical north of Australia just to be met with a sign that reminds you that there may be crocodiles in the vicinity.

Recent studies that point to the crocs being able to travel long distances by "catching waves" are also a little disturbing.

The last thing you want to see while catching some rays is a crocodile rocking up on the beach next to a surfer!

Still, those pesky crocs actually cause fewer than two fatalities per year in Australia.

Jellyfish
Jellyfish - but not box jellyfish; couldn't find a CC photo. (photo by NBphotostream)

Box Jellyfish

The Box Jellyfish is tiny but deadly.

I remember seeing one on display in a jar at a caravan park in the tropical north of Queensland to warn visitors, and to think that little thing - almost clear in color - could be so ruthless was shocking.

With the box jellyfish, a person can go into cardiac arrest within minutes.

This depends on the amount of tentacle that touches the body.

To deactivate the tentacles' stinging cells, vinegar has to be poured over them for at least 30 seconds.

Luckily, these jellyfish only populate the tropical north's waters from October through April.

Another plus is that these little jellyfish don't cause more than 1 death per year on average.

Pin for Later

Inside Refugio Amazonas and the Tambopata Research Center

Tambopata Research Center
Returning to the Tambopata Research Center after a nature hike

[A]s excited as I am to share the wildlife we saw in the Peruvian Amazon, including jaguars and monkeys, I also want to show you what it was like to stay in the eco-lodges.

Refugio Amazonas is the largest of the three lodges operated by Rainforest Expeditions, and it's where I spent the first and last night of the trip.

Here, you can book extra activities like mountain biking, kayaking, or massages. I opted to conclude my adventure with a 40-minute jungle massage (highly recommended).

The Tambopata Research Center (TRC) is nestled deeper in the Tambopata National Reserve. The design is very similar, and the bedrooms are equally comfortable, though guests have shared bathrooms as opposed to the private ones at Refugio Amazonas.

Refugio Amazonas

The bar at Refugio Amazonas
The bar at Refugio Amazonas is a popular place to hang out and exchange stories at the end of every day

The dining room at Refugio Amazonas
The open-air dining area at Refugio Amazonas

The bedroom doors are actually pieces of cloth which can be slid closed for privacy
Kerosene lamps are used to light common areas at night. Bedroom "doors" are actually pieces of cloth which can be drawn closed for privacy.

Candles are available in each bedroom
Candles are available in each bedroom, and provide a softer, warmer light than that of flashlights and headlamps. Mosquito nets are provided for everyone.

Private bathroom at Refugio Amazonas
At Refugio Amazonas, all the rooms feature private bathrooms

The semi-outdoor shower
The semi-outdoor shower

Tambopata Research Center

The Tambopata Research Center on a rainy morning
The Tambopata Research Center on a rainy morning

The building which houses the shared bathrooms at TRC
The building which houses the shared bathrooms at TRC

Recharging batteries and gadgets at Tambopata Research Center
Recharging batteries and gadgets at Tambopata Research Center

The Food

Pancakes and fresh fruit for breakfast
Pancakes and fresh fruit for breakfast

Aji de gallina (chicken with a creamy sauce over rice and potatoes) is a Peruvian classic
Aji de gallina (chicken with a creamy sauce over rice and potatoes) is a Peruvian classic

An Asia-inspired steak and noodle dish
An Asia-inspired steak and noodle dish with yuca and salad

Arroz con pollo with potatoes Huancaina (the name of the yellow sauce)
Arroz con pollo with potatoes Huancaina (the name of the yellow sauce)

Rice and chicken packaged in a green leaf so we could eat during a boat ride
Rice and chicken packaged in a green leaf so we could eat during a boat ride

The food on this trip was way beyond my expectations. I routinely went up for seconds, and there was always enough for many others to do the same.

____________

Disclosure: This tour is in partnership with Rainforest Expeditions. As always, any opinions expressed are entirely my own.

 

Lima Travel GuideDave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

Exploring Olkhon Island on Lake Baikal

Lake Baikal
Lake Baikal

Stopping at Lake Baikal is on the top of most travelers' lists when planning a trek across Russia by rail.

The Trans-Siberian train line passes just on the southern border of the lake, making it enticing not only because of the convenience factor but also because Lake Baikal is just such a strange and unique lake in general.

When I was planning my recent trip on the Trans-Mongolian railway, Lake Baikal was an absolute must – hands down.

This post is going to outline that recent adventure, including what makes Lake Baikal so interesting and where to stay on Olkhon Island – an island right out in the middle.

Another view of Lake Baikal in June
Another view of Lake Baikal in June

Lake Baikal - Facts and Things to Do

Did you know that Lake Baikal is the deepest lake in the world?

Fact. This lake reaches depths of around 1,632 meters.

Other interesting facts include:

  • Lake Baikal contains ⅕ of the world's freshwater. One-fifth!
  • It's 20 to 25 million years old - the world's oldest freshwater lake!
  • There are times when visibility in the lake can reach depths of 40 meters. That's some crystal clear water!
  • 336 rivers are flowing into the lake, and only one is flowing out.
  • There are 26 islands on the lake, the largest being Olkhon Island.
  • Lake Baikal grows by 2 cm each year, and it is believed that one day, it will turn into another ocean.
  • About half of the species that call Lake Baikal home, like the famous Baikal seal, are unique to this area.
  • In the winter, the place completely freezes over, which means there are no lake ferries. Instead, you can drive across the ice!

In the summertime, the area around the lake is an excellent place for hiking, camping, and biking, and in wintertime, you can try your hand at dog sledding.

We couldn't help but be shocked by how much it felt like we were at sea instead of at a lake, and so it only makes sense that fishing is another great potential activity for visitors to Baikal.

I was drawn into visiting Lake Baikal because of its strange facts and unique wildlife claims; my boyfriend was pulled because of the potential for fishing.

But, at our train stop just before Lake Baikal, we still really had no idea where we wanted to base our Baikal adventures: Slyudyanka, Listvyanka, or Severobaikalsk on the shores.

Walking through a forest on Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal
Walking through a forest on Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal

Choosing to Visit Olkhon Island

Since our time on our stop at Baikal was limited, we had to pick and choose our lake activities carefully.

At a hostel in Ulaan Bator, our stop before Lake Baikal, we heard countless people recount their stories and longing for Nikita's Homestead – a hostel community of sorts on Olkhon Island.

At the time, we hadn't even considered going to the islands, but when word of mouth is so strong, it's hard to convince yourself to go elsewhere.

As mentioned before, Olkhon Island is the largest of the 26 islands at Lake Baikal, and to get there, one must take a ferry from Sakhyurta.

Even then, you will need transport when you arrive on the other side, as Nikita's (if Khuzhir is your destination village) is still a drive away. It is best to organize a transfer with Nikita's in advance.

I remember feeling miles away from anything at that moment, much like in Mongolia from a couple of days before.

If you enjoy the feel of nature and being away from the hustle and bustle, then island life is probably a good option for you, too.

Nikita's homestead
Nikita's Homestead on Olkhon Island

Nikita's Homestead - Accommodation on Olkhon Island

The number one reason we loved Olkhon Island so much and decided to stay for three nights instead of two is Nikita's Homestead.

This little community – a collection of several charming Russian wood-carved buildings – served the tourist perfectly.

Three sufficient and sufficiently Russian meals every day are included in the price!

It was straightforward to book a day tour of the island through Nikita's, bicycle rentals, transport to our next destination, and all without ever needing to worry about planning our next meal.

Where not much else exists, Nikita's has filled a significant gap and provided the island with even more tourism.

Nikita's Dining Room
Nikita's Dining Room

The one bad part about visiting Olkhon Island is the fact that it takes a good chunk of time (and money) if you want to backtrack and visit a shore village, like Listvyanka, afterward.

On our limited schedule, we decided to stay an extra night in Olkhon Island and then head straight to Irkutsk for a night before hopping back on the train.

How to Bargain for Souvenirs in 6 Easy Steps

Tips on Bargaining
Tips on Bargaining

[B]argaining is the task of getting the best price for an item that doesn’t have a fixed price tag.

Some love taking on the challenge while others hate the hassle. Whatever your preference, sometimes throughout your travels, bargaining will be a necessary and even expected task.

So here are 6 tips for bargaining and saving some money when you shop.

Table of Contents

  • 1. Know the Ballpark Range of What Something Should Cost
  • 2. Don't Start Bargaining, Unless You're Actually Interested
  • 3. Pay Attention to What Others Pay
  • 4. Bargain with a Smile and a Positive Attitude
  • 5. Begin Low and Work Your Way Up (Compromise)
  • 6. Say Thank You... and Walk Away

1. Know the Ballpark Range of What Something Should Cost

Before you ever go shopping, or before you ever purchase anything, it’s your responsibility to know a ballpark figure of how much something should cost. In other words, it’s wise to know what average prices are for what you want to buy in the country you’re in.

Guidebooks, blog articles, and even Wikitravel, are all good places to do a little shopping research to see about how much a silk shirt should cost in Thailand or to see the going price is for a carpet at the Kashgar bazaar.

2. Don't Start Bargaining, Unless You're Actually Interested

If you have no intention of actually making a purchase, it’s not worth it, or even fair to the vendor if you act interested (unless you really do want to buy, but the offering price is ridiculously high).

There are times when someone will walk up to you with a product that you really don’t need or want, and they will push to try to make a sale. If you're not really interested just smile and say, “thank you, but I really don’t need it.”

3. Pay Attention to What Others Pay

This is not always possible, but if there happens to be someone who purchases something ahead of you or if you just observe someone purchasing something at another stall (roughly the same thing), pay attention to how much they pay.

This not only goes for souvenirs, but also for food and non-negotiable items as well, especially when there's no written price anywhere.

Be positive when bargaining
Be positive when bargaining

4. Bargain with a Smile and a Positive Attitude

In general, vendors around the world, though sometimes pushy or aggressive, underneath it all are friendly, talkative, and kind (after all, their lives may depend on making a few sales a day - and unfriendly owners don’t normally sell too well).

Always approach bargaining with a smile on your face and a positive attitude. Not only will you be more respectful to the vendor, but in my experience you’re likely to get a better deal too!

I’ve seen plenty of people get annoyed when haggling with a vendor, and that simply doesn’t make the price lower nor does it help either side in coming to a price agreement.

5. Begin Low and Work Your Way Up (Compromise)

In your head, come up with a price that you would be willing to pay, and then state about 40 - 60 percent (can vary by country) of that as your initial offer. The seller will counter with their offer, then you’ll have to raise your offer, then the seller will slightly lower their offer again, and so on.

If you reach the price you had in your head, that’s great, buy it!

If the vendor won’t go that low, you either have to determine if the vendor honestly looks as though they won’t be able to make enough profit (in which case you may have to change your initial price thought), or if they’re trying a sales technique.

One thing I discourage is bargaining until it really looks like the vendor is not receiving any profit - it's their business and means of income so they really do need to make profit.

6. Say Thank You... and Walk Away

If the vendor doesn’t agree to sell, you can either bump up the amount you’re willing to pay, or you can express thanks and continue walking.

In this case the vendor will either wait a few seconds and then call you back to take your money, or if not, you can probably assume your price was just too low.

In the end when we bargain we have to remember the most important thing: Is what I’m paying worth it for me? Is that shirt worth $5 to me (even if someone else may have paid $4 for it)?

Is haggling over a minuscule discount going to hurt you more, or the vendor?

Armed with a little bit of local purchasing knowledge and a positive mentality, bargaining can be a fun way to score great deals and maybe even build some relationships while you travel and shop.

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Dave at Ahu Ko Te Riku on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile.

Hi, I'm Dave

Editor in Chief

I've been writing about adventure travel on Go Backpacking since 2007. I've visited 68 countries.

Read more about Dave.

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