Blog - Go Backpacking

Photo Essay: Faces of Malaysia

Malaysia is home to one of the most ethnically diverse populations in all of Asia.

Its distinct population includes significant groups claiming Malay, Chinese and Indian ancestry.

The story of Malaysia is a harmonious country that is a leading example of tolerance and cooperation when it comes to religion & other social factors.

I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to visit several key destinations that included the capital city and two UNESCO heritage sites.

The following is a photo essay of the distinct faces of Malaysia from Penang, George Town, Melacca, Melaka, Kuala Lumpur & the Batu Caves:

Child feeding pigeons outside the Batu Caves, Malaysia.

Ladies sharing a laugh at the crosswalk – Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Newlyweds posing on Jonker Street – Melaka, Malaysia

A characteristically decorated rickshaw found only in Melacca, Malaysia

A girl devouring cold noodles on a hot day – George Town, Malaysia

A man enjoying a conversation on his cell phone – Penang, Malaysia

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About the Author: Samuel Jeffery is the wizard behind the curtain pulling the strings of NomadicSamuel.com, a travel blog that is miles away from ordinary...dripping with sarcasm. As a long term vagabond (6 consecutive years on the road) Samuel is sharing his photos, videos & quirky travel stories, along with photography tips, interviews, ESL tips, reviews and general travel advice as a way to vicariously experiences what it is like to backpack or to plan your own journey of a lifetime.

A False Start Aboard the Eden Yacht

Airport on Santa Cruz Island — Passengers walk the tarmac at the airport on Santa Cruz Island.

Touching down on the tarmac at Santa Cruz Island, it felt as though my Galapagos Islands adventure had finally begun.

The Eden yacht and its crew were awaiting me in a nearby harbor, but first, some paperwork had to be taken care of in the airport.

As I waited in line to show my passport and pay my $100 park entrance fee, additional planes arrived.

Sundays, it turns out, are the busiest days of the week, with up to a half dozen planes arriving in the morning.

Once the payment was made, my carry-on bag was searched, and I could collect my larger backpack.

Walking out the backside of the airport building, I saw a local holding a sign for The Eden yacht. It was Felipe who'd serve as our naturalist/guide for the whole 8-day journey.

Eden Yacht awaits its newest passengers in the harbor near the airport.

Boarding the Eden Yacht

But before we could get going, we had to wait for the rest of the boat's passengers to arrive. And that took another 45 minutes, as they were on the flight that arrived after mine.

By the time we left in the shuttle bus to the harbor, everyone else had already reached their boats.

A panga (or small dinghy) was dispatched from Eden to ferry us over. Pangas are used by all the cruise ships to take passengers back and forth between the boats and islands and for snorkeling.

Everyone was excited to reach the yacht, which would serve as our home for the next seven days and nights.

My first impressions were very positive as I explored the yacht's main deck.

The interior design was modern; there were tablecloths on the two dining room tables, a handsome bar, and even a flat-screen TV in the lounge area.

Once everyone and their luggage were aboard, we were shown to our rooms.

I wasn't surprised to learn I was bunking with Sebastian, a Canadian truck driver with a penchant for backpacking; however, neither of us expected to be given a room on the 2nd level.

Given Sebastien towered over me, I took the top bunk, which was a little narrow, but would suffice for a week.

The bathroom was small, clean, and better than I expected. In addition to a central AC system feeding the room, we had the ability to open our window and let a breeze in.

Next, we had a briefing by Felipe regarding the afternoon's itinerary. We'd have our first nature walk on nearby Bachas Beach, followed by snorkeling, but first, we'd have lunch.

For the passenger's comfort, I gather, all meals are served while the boat is stationary, so we ate while bobbing around in the now-empty harbor.

The family-style dining tables were a good icebreaker, and everyone began to get to know one another.

A heron walks along the beach at sunset. The red spots on the black lava rocks are Sally Lightfoot Crabs.

Bachas Beach on Santa Cruz Island

After lunch, we motored over to Bachas Beach. Several other yachts were already anchored offshore, and I began to wonder if we'd have time to snorkel.

It seemed like we'd been behind schedule since the airport, but I tried not to let it bother me.

We boarded the Eden Yacht's two pangas and sped toward shore.

As we got closer, a giant flock of Blue Footed Boobies could be seen. And people were snorkeling amongst them all in the clear blue waters.

By now, the sun was already fading toward the horizon, and I knew we were too short on time. I accepted that we would miss our first snorkel and reminded myself there'd be many more that week.

Felipe led us to two separate ponds where Chilean Flamingoes were busy feeding.

We quickly saw our first Marine Iguanas and red Sally Lightfoot Crabs, herons, and a few other types of birds.

After visiting the ponds, we arrived back at the main beach, which was now devoid of the Boobies and snorkelers who'd returned to their yachts already.

There was a sweet stillness to the beach at sunset. I was no longer in a hurry and could enjoy the moment.

A Marine Iguana on Bachas Beach — A Marine Iguana walks off into the sunset on Bachas Beach.

The Breakdown

As the light faded, the pangas were dispatched to pick us up, and we passed our first pelican on the way back to the Eden Yacht.

Once onboard, the captain started up the engines, but we didn't seem to go anywhere.

Then, we noticed some of the crew on the pangas next to the boat. It was already dark, so something clearly wasn't right.

The more time that passed without us moving, the more obvious it became there was a serious problem.

Felipe told us we'd eat dinner first and have our briefing for the following day afterward (normally, the briefings happen before dinner). We all knew that was a stall tactic.

Either the crew was still trying to diagnose or fix the problem, or they needed time to figure out what to do with 16 paying passengers whose yacht just broke down on the first day of a week-long cruise.

We continued to bond over our spaghetti dinner, after which we reconvened for the briefing.

Felipe, who looked young for his position as Galapagos nature guide, broke the news as we all held "welcome" cocktails.

The boat suffered a mechanical failure. And it wasn't something that could be fixed immediately.

He informed us that other 1st Class yachts were being contacted to see if they could take us.

The first boat offered up space for three of us -- an older Italian couple, and Maya, an Israeli backpacker.

Only Maya would need to bunk with a man, which was not the normal protocol when pairing up single travelers on Galapagos cruises.

As they got their stuff together to be transferred, fear of the unknown set in with the rest of us.

Would they find another comparable yacht for us?

Would the new yacht have a similar, if not the same, itinerary as the Eden?

Many of us had chosen Eden specifically for its itinerary, which included far-flung Genovesa Island.

Time passed, and anxiety increased as we awaited Eden's Sales Manager, who was due to arrive on the yacht around 9 PM'ish to further address the situation with us.

Our cruise had barely begun, and we were already being forced to abandon ship.

I would've been more pissed off if it weren't for the others on the boat, many of whom maintained a steady stream of jokes to lighten the mood.

I gave them all credit for keeping their cool. Despite the high cost of a Galapagos cruise, not including the actual cost to reach Ecuador from the USA or Italy, everyone behaved maturely.

A little before 10 PM, Maya returned. Upon seeing the other boat, and her new room, complete with an older man sleeping in it, she refused to stay there and rejoined the rest of us.

Dining room on Eden Yacht — One of two family-style dining tables on the Eden Yacht.

A Solution

A little after 10 PM, the Sales Manager arrived on the Eden, looking very flustered. She recapped the situation; the boat suffered a mechanical accident that could not have been predicted.

It was not a reflection of poor maintenance (earlier in the year, the Eden underwent a three-month maintenance overhaul).

Somehow, the metal rod that connected one of the two motors to one of the two propellers had broken.

Of course, that was the bad news we already knew.

The good news was they'd come up with the best solution we all had been hoping for -- transferring all of us to a new 1st Class yacht, Estrella del Mar, the following day.

The Estrella del Mar was a dive boat, and it wasn't scheduled with a tour, so it was undergoing routine maintenance.

I imagine Eden had to pay a pretty penny for this solution, not that we cared. But, I give them credit.

For it to work, they found an available boat of a similar class and worked out the charter with the owner, who then had to get a captain and crew together, prepare the boat, and stock it with food within about 12 to 14 hours.

There was no way around it. We had to accept the itinerary of the new yacht. The park service requires eight days to consider itinerary changes, even given extenuating circumstances.

We were losing a full day of our original itinerary, thereby missing Genovesa Island and the world's largest colony of Red Footed Boobies.

But there was nothing we could do, so humor and patience prevailed once again, and we all retired for the night.

How to Book a Last Minute Cruise to the Galapagos Islands

I will share with you how to book a last-minute cruise to the Galapagos Islands based on my experience.

Here's a dirty little travel secret: you can show up at almost any popular tourist activity worldwide and save serious cash by taking advantage of last-minute deals to book your trip.

Whether hiring a Nepali guide and porter for a trek to Everest Base Camp or going on safari in Africa, rare will be the occasion you can't get started within a few days of arrival.

Blue Footed Boobies are a beloved symbol of the Galapagos Islands. — Blue-footed boobies are a beloved symbol of the Galapagos Islands.

Before I dive into how you can visit this UNESCO World Heritage Site, I'd like to offer a disclaimer.

Results will vary significantly due to variables, from the time of year to tourism trends and the degree of desperation boat owners demonstrate at any given time to fill remaining beds before a cruise departs.

When to Go

Due to their proximity to the Equator, the weather on the Galapagos Islands remains relatively constant, making it a great year-round destination.

However, there are still a few factors to consider when deciding when to go.

Water Temperatures

While the air temperatures may remain relatively constant, there are hot and cold seasons based on ocean currents.

Warm Wet Season = Late December to June

Cold Dry Season = Late June to December

If you plan to go scuba diving or take advantage of snorkeling opportunities (as almost everyone does), the warm water season is the best time to book a cheap Galapagos cruise.

During the cold water season, you can still get in the water. However, you'll probably be more comfortable renting a wetsuit from your boat (or bringing your own).

Peak Tourism

The high season for tourism is June to August due to the summer holiday season in North America and Europe.

Expect cruise rates and, therefore, last-minute prices to be higher during this time, and you may need a little extra time to book your preferred boat.

Migratory Patterns

Some wildlife species are only present in and around the islands at certain times of the year due to their migrations.

If you have your heart set on seeing whales or a specific type of bird off the coast of Isabella Island, do your research in advance.

For example, the giant waved albatross is not typically seen from December to mid-March.

Where to Buy a Galapagos Island Tour

Backpackers in Puerto Ayora, The Galapagos — Backpackers crossing the main street in Puerto Ayora

There are three main cities where travelers are best off shopping around for and booking their last-minute cruise to the Galapagos Islands.

Quito

The Mariscal neighborhood around Plaza Foch in Quito has a high density of hostels, hotels, restaurants, bars, and tour agencies.

You can easily walk out of your hostel and spend a few hours collecting quotes and special offers from tour agencies, searching for the best price to make an informed decision.

While booking from Quito may be the easiest option, it will not necessarily offer you the best deals.

Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island

If you're serious about saving a few hundred dollars off the price of a cruise, you can arrange your flight(s) to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island (home to giant tortoises) and then shop around for very last-minute cruises.

The longer you can wait before a cruise departs, the more likely you will get a bargain basement price.

Don't sit on a quote you like too long because someone else can put down a deposit at any time, and you'll either have to wait longer or go with an otherwise second or third choice.

For example, one Australian couple I know flew to Puerto Ayora and booked their 8-day cruise there. They learned everyone had paid a different rate on their boat, from $800 to $1,200.

Unfortunately, I don't know which boat class they used; however, based on the price, it was either Economy/Tourist Class or, more likely, a 1st Class motor yacht.

Puerto Ayora is a tiny town and not particularly picturesque; however, you can make many inexpensive day trips, such as visiting the Darwin Research Center or Tortuga Bay, to kill time before your cruise departs.

Be forewarned that these two popular spots may also appear on cruise itineraries.

There are several decent Internet cafes in town. Rooms can be had for $20/night, and if you avoid tourist restaurants and eat with the locals, you can get by on $5 per meal.

Guayaquil

Located on the coast, Guayaquil is Ecuador's largest city and is considered more dangerous than Quito.

There's no central tourist area to compare with Mariscal in Quito, so shopping at different agencies to compare last-minute Galapagos cruise deals isn't as easy.

While you may save $40 on your airfare to/from the islands by flying out of Guayaquil, it's the least attractive location to book your last-minute cruise, let alone kill time before flying there.

Length of Cruises

Most (non-diving) cruises are sold for five or eight days, and the last day of the cruise is short, so you're better off thinking of them as four- and 7-day cruises.

To go a step further, the first day is only a half-day, so choosing a 5-day cruise equates to 3 full days, while an 8-day cruise equates to 6 full days.

A cruise around the Galapagos Islands is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most travelers, so I highly recommend the 8-day cruise to make the most of your visit.

The more walks you go on and the more snorkeling you do, the higher your chances of seeing all the fascinating wildlife.

Another option is to take the 5-day cruise and tack on some extra time, in the end, to explore independently or do some scuba diving through another company.

Types of Ships

Estrella del Mar - a typical 1st class motor yacht, which is a common choice for a last minute cruise to the Galapagos Islands. — Estrella del Mar - a typical 1st class motor yacht

The most significant variable in determining how much you pay for a last-minute cruise to the Galapagos Islands will be the class of boat you choose.

Finding out what others paid to their cruise operators is meaningless unless you also ask which boat they took.

In addition to the class of boat, which equates to the comfort level and quality of service, there are three main styles:

Sailboat
Motor yacht
Catamaran

Sailboats are primarily for show and are often powered by their motors more than the wind.

Motor yachts are the most common boat. And modern catamarans offer increased stability for those who are prone to seasickness.

The best options for budget travelers are the Economy and 1st Class motor yachts.

Economy / Tourist Class - Least Expensive

The economy class boats offer the Galapagos experience for those with the least money to spend.

Comfort, quality of food, and itineraries are all sacrificed to some degree when you choose these budget cruises.

Slower boats, such as the old sailboats, will not have itineraries as varied as the faster boats. These boats carry 12-16 passengers.

1st Class - Most Popular

Within the category of 1st Class are a wide variety of small yachts.

Therefore, some websites and tour operators break them out into the lower, middle, and higher levels to further delineate the quality of service and justify the pricing.

From a marketing standpoint, this makes sense -- getting on a "1st Class" boat sounds much better to customers than an "Economy" one!

The good news is even the lower-level 1st Class yachts are sufficient (if not entirely enjoyable) in terms of comfort, food, and quality of service by the crew.

For example, I experienced both Eden and Estrella del Mar and can say that while each had its pros and cons, they both met my expectations, if not exceeded them.

Common features included:

Nice interior design
Comfortable cabins and bathrooms
Good air-conditioning
Great and varied food
Friendly staff

These boats can carry a small group of 12-16 passengers.

Deluxe / Luxury Class

Queen Beatriz - a typical Deluxe catamaran (G Adventures charter this one)

Check out the Galapagos luxury cruises if you can afford to splash out on your adventure at sea.

These yachts and catamarans offer the highest quality service and the best-educated naturalists (who will also speak the best English).

And if you're looking for a jacuzzi on deck, these are the small ships for you.

Cruise Ships

Larger ships like the National Geographic Endeavour II offer luxury and stability that smaller boats can't compete with.

Larger boats also mean more passengers, which may be the preference of some visitors to the Islands.

I recommend getting quotes for all boats available when shopping around.

Don't be scared away by rates you see published online. Remember, you've got the advantage of booking at the last minute, at potentially significant savings!

You may get a great, last-minute deal on a Deluxe catamaran for the price of a typical 1st Class boat.

Itineraries

Itinerary for the visit to Espanola Island in the Galapagos. — Our Galapagos guide, Felipe, would brief us on the following day's itinerary every evening.

When I was getting quotes for my last-minute cruise to the Galapagos Islands, I found the faster, more expensive yachts often have plans focused on only encircling Isabella Island.

Isabella is the largest island on the western side of the Galapagos archipelago.

The coldest water passes along Isabella's western coast, which means it's suitable for whale watching, and there's also the chance to see dolphins, in addition to much of the same wildlife you can see on the smaller islands.

However, even some smaller, 1st Class boats have fabulous itineraries.

My Experience

I initially chose Eden, for example, because it was one of the few boats to visit the small, northern island of Genovesa on an 8-day cruise.

It's a very out-of-the-way island home to the world's largest colony of red-footed boobies, among many other birds.

Unfortunately, that yacht had a mechanical problem the first day, and we missed out on Genovesa as it wasn't on our new boat's, Estrella del Mar's, itinerary.

As a result of that experience, we learned that it takes a minimum of eight days for the park services to approve changes to cruise itineraries.

If something goes wrong, there's little chance your boat will be able to make up for it on another day.

All itineraries will ensure you have plenty of fantastic wildlife viewing opportunities. So, if you get dizzy looking at and comparing them all, don't worry too much about it.

The itinerary of any given boat is a more significant factor if you're dead set on seeing certain types of birds or wildlife, such as the whales, which are only around Isabella Island, and the red-footed boobies on Genovesa.

My Favorite Island

Of my 8-day itinerary, the best day was spent on Espanola Island, where we could snorkel with wild sea lions, see red and green "Christmas" marine iguanas, blue-footed boobies, Galapagos hawks, frigate birds, and the waved albatross.

The boat cost may be the most significant single expense if you want to book a last-minute cruise to the Galapagos Islands; however, there are additional costs to budget. Luckily, these are all well-known and easy to account for.

Required

$430 - Roundtrip Airfare to/from Islands (this is slightly less in the Low Tourist season or if you fly out of Guayaquil vs. Quito). I was informed you could try to book the airfare yourself and note you're an Ecuadorian to get about a 50% lower rate. However, if they call you out on this at the airport, you'll be required to pay the difference on the spot.
$100 - Galapagos National Park entrance fee (paid on arrival at the airport)
$10 - Airport fee (paid at the airport from which you depart the mainland)

Optional

$100+ Tip for the guide and boat crew. The rule of thumb is to tip at least $10 per day, split between the guide and boat crew. At the end of your cruise, you'll receive two envelopes for divvying up the cash. Tip more if you had a great time!
$30 - Wetsuit rental for a week. Necessary during the cold water season and a good idea any time if you're prone to sunburn. The boats carry a range of full and half-length sizes to rent.
$30 - Snorkel rental for a week. On nicer boats, this fee is included in the overall cost of the cruise, so make sure you find out when you're getting quotes. Or bring your own.
Bar Tab - On lower level 1st Class yachts, the beers were $2.50, and cocktails $4-$5.
Souvenirs - You'll have a few souvenir shopping opportunities in towns like Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island.

How to Pay

Ecuador is very much a cash-based economy, so unless you want to pay high fees to pay for your trip with a credit card, expect to make a few large withdrawals from the local ATMs. The good news is the official currency is the U.S. dollar.

I booked my trip through Sangay Tours, which was recommended to me by Uncornered Market, and I'm happy to recommend them as well.

When I booked, they charged a 10% fee for using credit cards and a 4% fee for using PayPal.

If you have a debit card that charges a lesser foreign transaction fee, such as 1%, it'll make sense to take money out via ATM and pay in cash.

Depending on your daily withdrawal limit, this may require multiple trips to the ATM and travel office, which is another reason to book your trip in Quito or Puerto Ayora.

There should be no fee for paying the airline ticket via credit or debit card.

Preparing to board the Eden our 1st day — Preparing to board the Eden on our first day

Total Cost of My 8-Day Galapagos Cruise

As soon as I'd announced my pending cruise to the Galapagos Islands, I started getting questions about how much the trip cost me, both from those who were planning to go and those who'd been.

I confirmed my spot on the last-minute Galapagos cruise four days before it departed.

Itemized List of ALL My Expenses

$1,550 - an 8-day cruise on a (lower level) 1st Class motor yacht. The first night was spent on Eden, with the remaining six on Estrella del Mar. The rate includes transport between the airport and boat on the Galapagos, snorkel equipment, 7-night onboard accommodation, and three meals daily. Paid in cash.
$428.60 - Roundtrip airfare from Quito to Santa Cruz Island via TAME Airlines. Paid on a debit card.
$10 - Quito airport departure / park-related fee. Paid in cash.
$100 - Galapagos Park fee. Paid in cash.
$30 - Wetsuit rental for the week. I paid in cash on the first day on the boat.
$3 - Souvenir stone-carved sea turtle.
$21 - Drinks and ice cream in a few towns we visited.
$9 - Yacht bar tab (I was so tired from activities that I didn't drink much alcohol).
$110 - Tips for guide and yacht staff, paid in cash.

My Total Cost = $2,261.60

This was the most I've ever paid for a single tour; however, it was a unique experience. I enjoyed learning about the Islands' history, geology, and wildlife.

I hope this information proves helpful when planning your last-minute cruise to the Galapagos Islands.

Daily Life in Yangon Burma

Naturally, awakening to the sunrise is a joy. The sounds of bird's chirping can still be heard before the roar of unmaintained trucks starts thundering through the bumpy roads.

I spent about two weeks in the city of Yangon Burma, and here are just a few things that would happen on an unplanned, but always eventful day.

Stroll Through The Morning Market

After waking up and putting on my clothes, it was time to take a stroll through the morning market.

The market was already bustling by the time I arrived.

It was filled with people selling fresh produce, recently butchered meats, ripe fruit, and a handful of already cooked delicious snacks and meals.

I stopped to grab a fantastic flatbread filled with boiled peas, combined with a few other spices.

It was reminiscent of a perfect bean burrito, but this was on the streets of Burma.

Mohinga for Breakfast

When real breakfast rolled around about an hour later, I went straight for a bowl of Mohinga.

Mohinga is one of the most popular dishes in Burmese cuisine, consisting of rice noodles in a thick fish soup.

It is often topped with crumbled up deep-fried chickpea fritters. The bowl of deliciously salty noodles makes a perfect breakfast!

Betel Nut Mouth Chew

In this part of the world, chewing various combinations of betel nut (also known as areca nut) is common.

Ancient looking wooden stands are set up all over town with men that roll herbs and tobacco into leaves and gnaw on them all day long.

I do enjoy the taste of betel nut, but the red spit that foams up your mouth and the mark it leaves on your gums makes it not so appealing.

Chinese Tea

While walking aimlessly around town, I was hollered at by an older man sitting on a 6-inch stool drinking coffee and tea.

He was being served by an elderly woman who smiled at me and invited me to sit down as well.

With no plans on the agenda, I sat down and ordered up a cup of coffee and Chinese tea as well.

In Yangon, anywhere you sit, you will be served Chinese tea, and you can drink as much of it as you want.

Some of the people I talked with were willing to talk about the political and historical situation of their country.

Thiri Mingalar Market

After a few hours of drinking tea and sitting around and chatting, I decided to whiz off to the giant distribution fresh market known as Thiri Mingalar market.

It is located about 10 kilometers out of central town, so I jumped in the back of a public transportation truck to get there.

Soon the truck was overfilled with all sorts of people carrying all kinds of random things.

The market was buzzing with business activity and the ever-present hustling of vegetables and fruits.

Along with eating, visiting local markets are another one of my favorite ways to observe the culture.

Thiri Mingalar market was an incredible glimpse into the lives and city of Yangon, and the local vendors were extremely friendly and approachable.

Shwedagon Pagoda

The most iconic and most holy religious site in Burma is Yangon's Shwedagon Pagoda.

This giant pagoda is known for its authentic golden bell-shaped stupa that rises to a height of 99 meters.

The very top of the stupa is a little chandelier like an ornament that consists of 5,448 diamonds and around 2,317 various precious gemstones. At the very very top is said to be a real 76-carat diamond.

It was indeed a fantastic site, and it was easy to spend quite a lot of time walking around the complex and gazing at the vast amount of gold everywhere.

Drinking Cold Water

As the afternoon sun pelts down, it's essential to drink as much water as possible to remain hydrated.

Luckily, I wasn't the only person thinking like that: There are cold water stations set up all over town.

The picture above will do a lot better at explaining this, but basically, you pour a cup of water over the block of ice, catch it back into the cup, and you then have cold water to drink!

You leave a tiny bit of money in the money cup - on the honor system.

Giant Curry Feast of Dinner

Burmese curry is famous, and though at times it can be a bit greasy, I'll admit that with a plate of rice, it's quite delicious!

Curry is available at many restaurants around town, from sit down to tiny street-side eateries.

Many of the curries are pre-cooked, but it's also possible to order up some stir-fried vegetables as well.

Football or Movie - and Tea

The nightly entertainment in Yangon involves sitting on the side of the street while watching a football (soccer) match or a movie.

After the sun goes down, the air is pleasant, and things settle down fast.

Of course, while chatting with a few locals and thoroughly enjoying ourselves, we sipped on a few pots of Chinese tea!

And with that, it was time to rest for the night to wake up in the morning and repeat another day in Yangon Burma!

Riding the Quito Teleferico & Climbing Pichincha Volcano

Riding the Quito Teleferico, one of the highest aerial lifts in the world, offers visitors the best views of the capital city.

If you're up for it, climbing Pichincha Volcano (4,784 meters) once you're up there is a physical challenge you can be proud to complete.

Heading to Quito? Book your hostel here

Opened in 2005, this gondola rises quickly from its base of 2,900 meters to 4,100 meters in about 10 minutes.

The cost for the roundtrip ride is $8.50, and experiencing the effects of high altitudes on your body won't get any easier than this.

Even after a few days of acclimatizing at 2,800 meters in Quito, I developed a headache within 30 minutes of walking around (at a reasonable pace) atop the Teleferico.

However, this is an entirely normal reaction for your body, and no reason not to take the trip up if you're in otherwise healthy condition.

View of Quito atop the Teleferico - 4,100 meters above sea level

Riding the Quito Teleferico

If you have the time and flexibility, it's best to wait for a relatively clear morning to make the trip up.

Weather conditions can change quickly in the mountains, and that's especially true once you reach altitudes above 4,000 meters, so go as early as possible. The Quito Teleferico operates from 9 AM to 7 PM daily.

Bring a rain jacket, as well as your camera.

The easiest way to reach the base of the Teleferico is to take a taxi.

Once you arrive, you can buy your ticket, and queue for the gondola.

When I went on a weekday afternoon, it was practically empty.

The ride is quick and smooth, and you'll be atop the mountain before you know it.

When you disembark, remember to take it slowly. Very slowly.

If you've never experienced such a high altitude, you may be surprised at how quickly your heart starts beating as you begin to walk around.

Take deep breathes, and again, go slow.

Most visitors will go for a short walk to take photos of Quito to the West, and Pichincha Volcano to the East.

There are several cafes, restaurants, and public bathrooms around the top of the Teleferico where you can rest and enjoy the city views.

If you start to get a headache, drink lots of water and get something to eat.

Chances are this won't have an immediate effect. However, it's a good idea anyways, especially if you're climbing Pichincha Volcano.

Our bodies use/lose water more quickly at high altitudes, so it's important to stay well hydrated.

As a rule of thumb, drink before you're thirsty, and eat before you're hungry.

The easiest way to alleviate a high altitude induced headache is to just take the Teleferico back down to the lower elevation.

Taking aspirin or Tylenol can also help reduce the severity.

Pichincha Volcano as seen from top of the Teleferico

Climbing Pichincha Volcano

If taking the Teleferico isn't enough, you can also try climbing Pichincha Volcano once you're up there.

A few tips to keep in mind:

Start early to ensure better views, as it's often more likely to get cloudy, foggy and rainy in the afternoons.
Allow an hour or two more time than you think you need. Trekking at high altitudes is a slower process than at sea level, especially if you haven't already acclimatized to Quito's 2,800-meter elevation.
Dress in layers, as temperatures can fluctuate quickly at altitude.
Bring a water-resistant jacket.
Bring a daypack with a few liters of water, and some high-energy snacks (ex: Snickers, protein bars, chocolate).
Hike with at least one other person, if not a group, to ensure your safety and deter potential thieves.
Remember that getting to the top is often the easy part. Don't push yourself beyond your limits, as you'll need your energy to get back down safely too.
Tell someone where you're going, and when you can be expected back.

I decided not to try and climb Pichincha for a few reasons.

First, I was still experiencing light headaches every afternoon since arriving in Quito, so I knew my body hadn't acclimatized to Quito's 2,800-meter elevation.

Second, being the sometimes-loner that I can be, I didn't have anyone to go with and didn't want to take any unnecessary risks (robbery, acute mountain sickness).

Trail map for hiking Pichincha Volcano, found at base of the Teleferico — Trail map for hiking Pichincha Volcano found at the base of the Teleferico

What You Need to Know

Hours: 9 AM to 7 PM daily

How Much: $8.50 - Quito Teleferico / Free - Climbing Pichincha Volcano

Difficulty: Easy - Quito Teleferico / Moderate to Difficult - Climbing Pichincha Volcano

How to Get There: Schedule a taxi through your hostel for a fixed price (one way or return trip), or hail one on the street and negotiate a rate.

What to Bring: Several layers of clothes, including a rain jacket, camera. To climb the volcano, also bring a daypack with 1-2 liters of water, and several snacks (candy or protein bars, fruit, etc.).

Need more itinerary ideas? Get this complete Ecuador guidebook

Mountain Biking Cotapaxi Volcano

Mountain biking Cotopaxi Volcano was the most scenic, exciting bike ride of my life (and one of my favorite day trips ever). I first learned about this high-altitude adventure from Jack and Jill in a story they wrote about activities that did NOT kill them in Ecuador.

The parking lot at Cotopaxi Volcano - 4,500 meters above sea level

Excellent. But I had a few concerns before I'd be ready to sign up. First, can I find a tour company that uses quality bikes and keeps the brakes in good condition?

Yes. After googling around, I discovered several positive referrals for the Biking Dutchman, who has been running tours to Cotopaxi for an odd 25 years, before anyone else, I'm sure. And that's just one of many trips they run throughout the country (for more serious riders).

Second, how would I feel at our drop-off point, 4,500 meters above sea level, when I was already having light headaches while acclimating to Quito's 2,800-meter elevation?

Welcome to Cotopaxi Volcano, Ecuador's second tallest at 5,897 meters.

When I visited the Biking Dutchman's office, I was met by the daughter of the company's founder. Of course, she's taken the bike ride and assured me it was no big deal.

Unlike other bike tours, theirs was more focused on bike riding and did not include the (strenuous) 300-meter walk up to the base camp used for summit attempts (aka the refuge).

In other words, we'd be driven to the parking lot at 4,500 meters and almost immediately beginning our descent. So, I paid a $10 deposit on the $59 tour (which included lunch).

My trip left the next day, a Saturday morning, which made getting a good night's sleep in the hostel near impossible.

Related: Top Things To Do in Ecuador

The 4x4 and bikes we took. — The 4x4 we took to Cotopaxi

How To Mountain Bike One of the World's Tallest Active Volcanoes

At 7 or 8 AM, I grabbed a quick breakfast at one of the few open restaurants in Plaza Foch and met up with the guides and our group for the day outside the Biking Dutchman's office.

We piled into two 4x4 trucks, with the mountain bikes on top, and drove about two hours through southern Quito to Cotopaxi National Park, stopping for snacks once along the way.

During the drive, I got to know others in my truck. Most were Americans, and there were even two older couples, one in their 40s and one easily in their 50s. I admired their sense of adventure.

Once inside the park, we stopped at a rest area, where I had the chance to drink my first cup of coca leaf tea, which is supposed to help with the effects of high altitudes. For $3 per cup, it better!

Mountain bikes — Geared up and ready to go downhill mountain biking

This was also where we were fitted with helmets and given gloves, which are as much for warmth as protecting our hands from the day's riding and in the event we should bite the dust on the rocky roads.

And then we began the ascent up the volcano to the parking lot at 4,500 meters. The altitude was a new high for me, though it lacks the sense of accomplishment when you don't get there by trekking.

Our guide matched each person individually with a bike based on our heights. Once we had our bikes, he gave us a safety briefing, including tips for how to properly go mountain biking down Cotopaxi Volcano (or anywhere, for that matter).

Tips for Mountain Biking Cotopaxi Volcano

Use the back brake 70% and the front brake 30%.
Don't mix up the brakes; if you press the front only, you'll immediately fly over the handlebars.
Stand up with the pedals parallel to the ground, your right (dominant) foot forward, and your knees bent.
Lean your weight backward, especially on the steeper terrain.
It's better to allow the bike to gain some speed than to be riding the brakes hard the whole way (let the bike's front shock absorbers do their job, and you'll have a more comfortable ride).

And then we were off and riding down one of the world's tallest active volcanoes! At first, I was riding the brakes pretty hard, however as I began to trust the bike more and more, I loosened up and did better maintaining a constant speed. The road was rutted, and keeping to the inner or outer edges often helped reduce the bumps.

Downhill mountain biking Cotopaxi — Riding down Cotopaxi

Traffic continued to go up the road in the opposite direction, but it was slow enough that you always saw them coming and could adjust your position and speed accordingly.

The main downhill portion runs eight kilometers from the parking lot to relatively flat terrain, and it's over pretty quickly, even if you stop to take pictures along the way.

The sweeping views of the valley and nearby mountains were gorgeous, and according to our guide, the partly cloudy weather offered near-perfect conditions.

Dressing in layers is essential, as you'll want to be warm at the top, while a T-shirt or long-sleeved shirt is sufficient by the bottom. Sunglasses are an absolute requirement due to the elevation and reflection of the sun off the glacier. Sunscreen is also a good idea.

One of the 4x4s was always behind our group in case someone needed a break, which was the case with the oldest woman on the downhill section. Everyone else rode down without any trouble.

Cotopaxi Volcano summit — Cotopaxi Volcano, as seen from about 3,800 meters. The parking lot is a little below the yellow "refuge" tent.

With the Biking Dutchman trips, you spend more time mountain biking Cotopaxi Volcano National Park after the downhill section, versus other trips, which spend that time hiking to the refuge and, if possible, further up to the snowline.

The valley's terrain may look flat and easy to ride, but pedaling at altitudes of 3,300-3,700 meters is still hard work. It pays to keep a slow but steady pace unless you want to be out of breath the whole time.

Lunch at Laguna Limpiopungo

We enjoyed a pasta lunch and spinach pastry overlooking Laguna Limpiopungo (3,830 meters). The chocolate brownies for dessert were the bomb. They are worth the price of the trip alone. Fresh ginger tea was served, a reminder of my time in Nepal.

Final Thoughts

Our mountain biking trip through Cotopaxi National Park concluded some 26-30 kilometers from where we started on the volcano. Toward the end, we passed wild horses grazing near the road. Some sections were more fun to ride than others.

At times, I was surprised at how fast I was moving over what appeared to be very rough terrain. Our guide was right about learning to trust our bikes-the more time I spent on them, the more relaxed I became, and the more bumps I enjoyed.

Storm clouds and lightning had begun to roll through the valley, and our guide wisely suggested we stop, whereas they usually allow riders to keep going for as long as they want.

I highly recommend mountain biking Cotopaxi Volcano to everyone, regardless of age, sex, or physical fitness. Though it helps to be in good condition, the spirit of adventure will serve you just as well.

Don't let the flat ground deceive you, it was still a lot of work to pedal as we were over 3,000 meters in elevation the whole day — Don't let the flat ground deceive you. It was still a lot of work to pedal as we were over 3,000 meters in elevation the whole day.

What You Need to Know

How Much: $59 + tip

Difficulty: Moderate

Where to Book: Most hostels and travel shops in Quito. I recommend the Biking Dutchman (La Pinta E 731 and Reina Victoria). They use Trek mountain bikes and maintain them well. Nobody in my group complained of bad brakes.

What to Bring: A daypack, a supply of snacks and water (at least one liter, preferably two), sunglasses, sunscreen, several layers, including a light jacket in case it rains, extra cash for cocoa leaf tea ($3), and tipping the guide at the end.

Mitad del Mundo: Visiting the Equator in Quito

Visiting the Equator in Quito, marked by the Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World) monument, is one of the top things to do in Ecuador's capital city.

To capitalize on this fact, a complex of gift shops, restaurants, and educational galleries (like the Insectarium) have been built around the monument.

But Type-A personalities and geoscience nerds beware, this 30-meter high monument was built in the wrong place back in 1982.

View from atop the Mitad del Mundo monument.

Based on current GPS measurements, the actual Equator is about 240 meters north of the Mitad del Mundo monument.

Luckily, it's a short walk from one to the other, so you can get credit for straddling both the false 1982-era Equatorial line (seen in the photo above), as well as the true line which is marked within the Museo de Sitio Intinan.

For the record, I enjoyed the experience of visiting the Museo de Sitio Intinan more than the Mitad del Mundo.

And here's why.

The True Equator at Museo de Sitio Intinan.

There's a series of experiments that are set up along the GPS-measured Equator line that help to demonstrate the effects of being exactly on the Equator, as well as differences between the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.

It's straight from an episode of Mr. Wizard. And I liked that educational aspect more than a simple photo-op in front of a dull monument.

Series of experiments on the true Equator — A series of experiments running along the true Equator.

For example, the Coriolis Effect is demonstrated using a tub of water and some green leaves.

When a bucket of water was poured into a tub on the Northern Hemisphere, it swirled in one direction (as indicated by the leaves floating in the water), whereas on the Southern Hemisphere side, the water swirled in the opposite direction. And the distance between the two was no more than 3-4 meters!

The most popular experiment is trying to balance a raw egg on the head of a nail. Apparently it's suppose to be easier to do along the Equator.

I saw them balanced there by others, but my attempts were in vain. Our guide said some mornings when he's feeling well balanced, he can do it easily, while other days, it's hard for him too.

In addition to the science experiments, the tour also takes you through some original, 100+ year old homes of the local indigenous people who use to live there.

Rome: From a Blind Person’s Perspective

The following is a guest post by Tony Giles, author of Seeing the World My Way.

Rome is the capital city of Italy.

Vatican City, the residence of the Pope, is a walled enclave within Rome.

Italy’s capital is an ancient area where the Roman Empire began 2,800 years ago. Notable archaeological buildings, such as the Colosseum, Pantheon and the Forum Romanum ruins bared witness to the vast civilization that existed centuries ago.

Vibrant modern day Rome is a reflection of its 14^th-16^th century Renaissance period, illustrated by the crowded Piazza Navona, Piazza Popolo, and Piazza di Spagna, plus the Piazza del Campidoglio, re-designed by Michelangelo.

The famous Trevi fountain, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and created by Nicola Salvi (1732), is another famous site for both tourists and locals.

The 18^th century Spanish Steps, by Italian architect Francisco de Sanctis, which lead to the lavishly designed French church Trinità dei Monti with magnificent views over Rome, is also another favorite meeting place.

The combination of stylish architectural extravagance, vast vociferous crowds, and an important church, conjure a vivid picture of Rome, both during the renaissance and today.

However, what is the significance to a blind person? Indeed, even to someone daring to travel with sight loss?

The answers only become apparent once people realize that blind people might wish to travel or, in my case, journey frequently.

I’ve spent the last thirteen years traveling solo around the world blind. This came from a desire to be independent and challenge myself.

My girlfriend Tatiana, who I met through my website, is from Greece and is also totally blind.

Since we both live in separate countries, we decided to meet in Rome for four days, as it is approximately half way between Greece and England.

In addition, Tatiana is studying Italian and strongly desired to visit Rome.

Arriving in Rome

On 18^th July 2011, we met up in the arrivals area of Fiumicino (Leonardo da Vinci) airport. Rome has two international airports – the other is Ciampino.

Most disabled people receive assistance when flying and are usually met at their destination.

So, despite both Tatiana and I being blind, we found each other assisted by airport staff. They even helped us catch the airport train to Rome’s center.

A single ticket currently costs 14 Euros, and the journey takes forty minutes.

We discovered later that although the bus takes over an hour from the city to Fiumicino, a single ticket only cost 8 Euros.

I’d researched Rome’s attractions and hostel accommodations on the internet previously, with the help of a screen reading software called Jaws.

Therefore, I roughly knew the directions to our reserved accommodation.

We met an Australian couple on the train, and they kindly assisted us to our hostel, as it was getting late and dark and many homeless people and thieves were loitering outside Termini train station.

Once at the hostel, a second-floor apartment up three flights of stairs and through several heavy doors, we settled in and asked directions to a nearby restaurant to sample Italy’s delicious cuisine.

Tatiana and I both use long canes to negotiate streets, stairs, and all other obstacles.

We rely on the public, other travelers, and hostel staff to help with directions to places and attractions.

Traveling is a challenge, often difficult, but most rewarding when successful.

Why do we travel?

For the sounds, smells, food, music, historical interests we both share. But mainly to meet people and experience the culture.

The next morning we asked for directions to the nearest metro for the Colosseum, Rome’s most famous building.

We exited the hostel, turned left, and walked along the uneven pavement until we found the first street on our left.

We quickly discovered that Rome’s roads and pavements are uneven and many have cobbles, which caused problems for our canes.

We asked directions for the nearest metro in both English and Italian and were eventually guided there by a local.

Once inside, we stood still with our canes until someone asked us if we required a help “companion.”

We stated our destination and were taken to a staff member. Several escalators later, we’d descended into the bowels of the metro and were helped onto the correct train.

Rome currently only has two metro lines, A and B (although line C is under construction).

We both knew that the metro and buses would be busy and provided good opportunities for robbery, a common practice in Rome.

We kept our valuables close and suffered no incidence. Tatiana counted the stations and listened to the Italian announcements.

At our stop, we pushed our way through the people and alighted.

However, as I was stepping off, I slipped, and my left leg went between the metro and the platform – a scary moment for both of us.

It’s happened to me before, and I’m used to incidences occurring having traveled for many years.

But Tatiana is relatively new to the game, and it frightened her. However, metro staff rescued me, assisted us out the station and gave us directions to the nearby Colosseum.

The Colosseum

Although I’m blind, I like taking photographs.

So after refreshments at an adjacent café, we crossed the road by listening for the quiet of traffic and followed the sound of other pedestrians.

Once across the road, we discovered a large cobbled open space, which I took for Colosseum Square.

We were in direct sunlight, which meant we were away from the shadow of buildings.

I asked a tourist for directions to Constantine’s Arch built (315 A.D.) located on Colosseum square, and another tourist helped me take a picture.

We walked forward a few meters before turning right and followed the sound of more people.

We enquired about the line for the Colosseum and were told to continue passed the people, many who’d been standing in the blazing sun for over two hours to buy tickets.

Being blind enabled us to skip the line and enter the Colosseum.

I showed my disabled bus pass, and we were allowed free admittance and received a discount on the audio guide.

It’s a hand-held device containing a tactile keypad.

We were taken to the start of the self-guided tour, physically shown the direction to go and informed to complete the audio tour in approximately two hours.

We were left beside a stone column on its side near the entrance in a corridor like the area underneath the amphitheater.

We briefly listened to the audio guide before going in search of our first location.

With our audio guide and cane in one hand and our other linked together, we followed the corridor.

I tapped the right-hand wall with my cane until I found steps on my right. With confirmation from an American tourist, we ascended the flights of large steep steps, following them until they finished.

Once up, we listened to the first commentary about the Colosseum.

I took photos of the area, using the walls and pillars as a guide.

The audio guide was somewhat confusing, as it gave no directions to each place relating to the commentary.

Initially, I was unsure if we were on the correct level, and when we asked other tourists for the numbers relating to the audio guide, nobody understood our request.

Eventually, we met a tourist with a map corresponding to the guide, and the lady helped us to the next place.

The upper gallery gave views over the Colosseum’s arena where circus animal entertainment and gladiatorial contests occurred.

The animals and gladiators were held in cages and brought into the arena through trap doors in the floor. These doors and underground tunnels are now visible.

We continued following the audio guide and feeling the walls and ruins as we went.

I showed Tatiana a colossal column, and she measured its circumference by walking around it.

We located the panoramic terrace, which gave excellent views towards the Roman forum, Constantines Arch, and the ancient Temple of Venus and Roma.

We learned about the seat sectioning according to class with the carved names of important individuals still noticeable in the marble.

The Colosseum’s Construction began in 72 A.D. under Emperor Vespasian and was completed in 80 A.D. under Emperor Titus.

It’s considered one of the most magnificent structures of Roman architecture and engineering.

We enjoyed it for its size, rough textures of various building materials, such as stone, brick, and marble, and absorbed the information, gaining an impression of the Colosseum at the height of Roman imperialism.

We briefly explored the lower level, assisted by a couple of staff members before exiting into the hot blazing sun and returning to the only café in the near vicinity.

The Trevi Fountain

Later, we visited the Trevi Fountain, one of Rome’s most famous attractions, full of atmosphere, and people. We entered the Colosseo Metro and asked about a train to Trevi Fountain.

A staff member informed us we needed a bus and took us to one outside the metro entrance.

We told the bus driver our destination and hoped he’d remember as the bus was packed!

It was early evening, around 7.00 pm. Two People gave us their seats and another local told us when to alight.

However, we were dropped a few streets from the fountain in question. Tatiana asked in Italian, and eventually, we found someone who spoke both Italian and English.

The lady helped us cross several streets and told us to continue walking straight, the most common advice we received in Rome!

We finally arrived in a pedestrian street with many restaurants and continued asking for the Trevi Fountain.

We reached a dead end, the street being blocked by a large van. A local man took us around a barrier and up to Trevi Square.

Tatiana heard the fountain, and we walked towards the noise.

We pushed through the large crowd and moments later our canes hit a barrier, and we were beside the Trevi Fountain.

We followed the voices of several tourists, descended a slight slope, carefully climbed down three irregular shaped stone steps, and approached the large rectangular fountain.

Tatiana and I sat on the small wall and dipped our fingers into the cool water.

The fountain itself was in front of us and slightly to the right. I followed the small wall towards the fountain’s sound and asked a tourist to take our picture.

An American guy described the fountain with ‘the restive sea horse,’ a statue of Neptune in a seashell chariot being pulled by two sea horses, one calm and the other restless, representing the changing moods of the sea.

We sat on the small wall and relaxed in the company of the musical Trevi Fountain.

Later, we had dinner in the pedestrian street we had walked earlier.

We shared a pizza topped with cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms and Italian sausage, washed down with lemonade, followed by the exquisite ice cream gelato in a nearby parlor.

As we finished our meal, it began to rain – some people would have a wet dinner that night!

Restaurant tables are invariably outside and usually consist of wooden tables and chairs, the tables decorated with fine linen, candles, and a rose – the Italians appear both friendly and romantic.

It was sweltering both day and night during our stay, hence dining in the open.

We returned to our hostel by bus, locating the bus stop with help from a delightful Irish couple. They were on their honeymoon and exploring Italy.

This is a brief account of the activities of two blind people exploring Rome.

An interesting city, full of history, ruins, friendly and helpful Italians, good food and wonderful piazzas and fountains.

________

About the Author: Tony Giles is the 32-year old author of Seeing the World My Way. He's visited sixty countries, all 50 US States, 10 Canadian Provinces, and every continent. You can follow his adventures at www.tonythetraveller.com, or on Facebook.

Tony lives in Teignmouth, Devon, UK and when he's not traveling, he enjoys walking by the sea, dining with Tatiana, listening to classic rock music and reading historical fiction.

Walking the Historic Center of Quito, Ecuador

A walking tour of the historic center in Quito is a relaxing way to start your sightseeing in Ecuador's high-altitude capital city.

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and considered to be one of the best preserved old towns in Latin America, the neighborhood is full of old churches, plazas, and museums.

I began my walk at the Basilica del Voto Nacional, which is the largest neo-Gothic cathedral in the Americas. A ticket to enter costs $3.

Elevators run up both towers in the front, but I declined them in favor of the stairs. After two flights, and a pounding heart, I remembered that I was 2,800 meters above sea level.

Stained glass inside Basilica del Voto Nacional

By the third or fourth floor, you can take a break and look out from a balcony down the cathedral's nave. Stained glass windows line the upper walls.

Go a few more flights up, and you'll be presented with a long, sketchy looking walkway that extends down the length of the nave, and ends with a near-vertical ladder.

Walk up the ladder, and then an even sketchier one to reach a spire in the rear of the cathedral. Just don't look down and you'll be fine.

View of Quito from atop the Basilica del Voto Nacional

The rewards of your death-defying cathedral climb are sweeping views of central Quito.

During my visit, I ran into a few other travelers in the spire. Upon asking one of the two 22-year old, blonde, blue-eyed girls to take my photo, we began chatting. One of the girls was from the USA, and the other from Norway.

As we were all starting our walk of the historic center of Quito with the Basilica del Voto Nacional, we joined forces for the remainder of the afternoon.

From the Basilica, we walked a few blocks to the Plaza de la Independencia, which was the true center of the historic center. We didn't linger too long, and there wasn't much to see.

I didn't find the central plaza to be particularly pretty, or any more well preserved than similar places I'd been in Colombian cities.

Front door of the Church of La Compañía de Jesús — The gold-painted front door of the Church of La Compañía de Jesús.

Next on my list was the 400-year old Jesuit Church of La Compania de Jesus a few blocks from the main plaza. Entrance is $2, which seems like a minor price to pay for what's deemed as one of Latin America's most beautiful churches, but the girls decided to skip it and wait for me outside.

No photography is allowed, however the front door (pictured above) is a good indication of what you'll see inside.

The entire interior of the church is painted in gold leaf. I've seen a lot of old European churches, but none like this one. It was well worth the cost of admission.

Lastly, I lead our group one block further to the Church of San Francisco, with its large plaza by the same name. By this time, we were still bearing the full strength of the sun from the West, while ominously dark storm clouds began to roll in from the South.

There are a bunch of museums in the old town as well, but I wasn't too interested in visiting them, nor were the girls. Instead we, caught a cab back to the Mariscal neighborhood where we were all staying just as the afternoon rains arrived.

AeroGal: Flying Aerolineas Galapagos

When I found a $400 flight from New York City to Quito (via Guayaquil) on Aerolineas Galapagos, or AeroGal for short, I couldn't bear to pass it up.

That I did not know this Ecuadorian airline was a secondary concern to getting the lowest price possible.

Of course, once the payment was made, I then began wondering if AeroGal was a comfortable airline to fly, let alone a safe one.

After all, it's an entire airline geared around a tourist destination in Ecuador, albeit the country's biggest and one of the world's most popular.

I even tweeted my concern, upon which I received positive feedback from fellow travel bloggers who'd also flown AeroGal en route to the Galapagos Islands.

Based in Quito, AeroGal began service to the Galapagos in 1986 and currently has domestic routes within Ecuador and international service to Lima, Bogota, and New York City.

In October 2009, it merged with Colombia's Avianca, which now owns a majority stake, though AeroGal operates under its own brand.

Passing Cotopaxi on the way to Quito. — Passing Cotopaxi volcano on the approach to Quito!

We flew out of JFK International at 12:30 AM and were promptly served an unexpected, late-night dinner. I'd already eaten at an overpriced airport bar but ate once again as it was something to do.

As the food service wound down, the cabin lights were dimmed. I'd gotten a refill on my cup of water as I didn't have a bottle on me.

(Sidenote: Airport terminals should always have at least one drink vending machine available for late-night flights. Yea, I'm looking at you, JFK Terminal 5.)

I apparently fell asleep and then knocked over the cup because the next thing I knew, the water had spilled all over my lap -- I was soaking wet.

I immediately hit the stewardess button on my armrest, hoping to get some napkins, but nobody showed up.

I always get a window seat, so I was boxed in by a sleeping passenger. Being drowsy myself, I wasn't in the mood to rowse him to get to the bathroom.

In my semi-unconscious haze, I continued to look back down the aisle behind me for help, but none arrived despite my light remaining on for at least 30 minutes, if not all night.

It's ironic one of the rare times I use the stewardess button, nobody arrived.

Eventually, I gave up and caught a few hours of sleep.

Around 7 AM'ish, we landed in Guayaquil's new international airport.

I had to pass through immigration and customs, re-check my bag, and find the gate for my connecting AeroGal flight to Quito. In all, it took about an hour, which was a pleasant surprise.

I even had a little time to grab breakfast before the 35-minute flight to Quito. And what a scenic flight it was!

The weather was clear enough that we could see multiple volcanoes, including the giant 5,897-meter Cotopaxi (which I'd later mountain bike down).

Preparing to land in Quito, Ecaudor with Cotopaxi in the distance. — Preparing to land in Quito, Ecuador, with Cotopaxi in the distance.

Quito is perched at 2,800 meters above sea level amidst the Andes Mountains, and our approach to the airport involved more than a few special banks and maneuvers.

We landed safely for the second time, and I collected my bag and headed for the taxi stand within minutes.

Overall, I was satisfied with my first experience flying AeroGal, and I am happy to recommend them.

Just try not to spill anything on yourself at 2 AM!

There's No Place Like Home

Before I jump into the wild and exciting times of travel in Ecuador, I wanted to take a moment to reflect on why there's no place like home.

And by home, I don't mean my affair with the Latin American city of Medellin, I mean New York.

The state where I was born, the small suburban town of Pelham where I spent my first 10 years on the planet, and the Big Apple, which I've returned to almost yearly as an adult.

Earlier this month I went back for a family wedding, which gave me an opportunity to not only couchsurf with my brother in Manhattan again (thanks Jon!), but to go to a Yankees game with my parents like we did when I was a kid.

And the wedding was held in Pelham, so when my brother and I arrived by train a few hours early, I suggested we walk by our old house.

Memories came back with every step: the daily walk to school, playing with friends, curfews that always seemed to early.

While I'd been growing up and traveling the world, it appeared very little had changed in the last 25 years.

The old homes on our block look just as they did when I was a kid running around having acorn-throwing fights.

Somehow, the whole neighborhood seems to have shrunken down from what I remembered.

I guess that change in perspective is normal when you're literally twice as tall as before.

Our Tudor house looks exactly the same, even down to the landscaping, and giant oak trees looming overhead.

We continued walking down to the main strip, past a plethora of pizza joints, and the store which use to be a candy shop where I'd spend my allowance every chance I'd get.

We then walked a few blocks to the church for an intimate ceremony, followed by a reception at a nearby restaurant.

As much fun as it can be to hang out with an international contingency of friends and bloggers, there was a warmth to being surrounded by family for a few days in the place where I grew up.

It reminded me that wherever I go or live in the world, there's no place like home.

And home for me will always be New York.

Day Trips to Mexico: For the Food & Camaraderie

I attended university in Phoenix, Arizona, USA, about a 3 hour drive from the border of Mexico.

Taking a day trip to Mexico was very easy, especially as I had a few friend's whose hometowns were just an hour or so across the border.

Taking day trips across the border was often a decision to accomplish something, along with a little fun in the process.

Other times it was purely an impulse journey that was decided mere moments prior to jumping in the car and heading to the petrol station to fill up.

Still other times we planned to go to Mexico in order to attend a fiesta, festival or event.

Need a tint job done for your car windows? It's so much cheaper in Mexico.

Need dental work? It's so much cheaper in Mexico.

Some of my friends were American-Mexican, while others were on student visas, or working in the Phoenix area.

I knew one Mexican friend that refused to get his haircut in the States - "I just go to Mexico when my hair gets long," he would tell me (Note: he was very particular about his haircut, and didn't want to risk getting a haircut in the States).

For myself, I would go along as an activity, a great opportunity to observe a rich Mexican culture right across the border from the United States - so close, yet so different.

Of course, getting to eat Mexican food was one of my top priorities. Even though Arizona has an impressive and authentic array of Mexican food (just like California), somehow just moments after crossing to the Mexican side, the food tasted just a little bit better.

The white Mexican cheese was a tad saltier, the tamales were stuffed with a few more spices, and the grilled carne asada (grilled beef) was juicier and more full of that natural beef flavor.

If getting something done, and visiting friends' families wasn't on the checklist for a day trip to Mexico, those flawless tacos and burritos filled with lip-licking beef, and garnished with creamy guacamole, diced onions, a handful of cilantro, and doused in salsa was an equitable justification.

Growing up around the world, one of the things that I never got used in the United States was the lack of community and the sense of a neighborhood network.

Many countries around the world take to the streets and live their lives close to others, interact and just hang out amongst themselves. It's something I really missed.

Visiting Mexico brought back that sense of community.

We would arrive in a small local town, far from tourism, yet only an hour from the border.

It was a sleepy desert town, where we could indulge in the enjoyment of simple street food, chill out in the front yard (instead of being shunned in the backyard), and greet other people who just happen to be passing by.

Spending quality (albeit short) time with family, and being genuinely delighted by the company of others was one of the true rewards of my day trips to Mexico.

Heading back to Arizona, belly stuffed with greasy awesomeness, I'd reflect, knowing how special it was to be plugged in with a network of amazing friends from Mexico, friends that are family to me.

I always had to chuckle driving back to the United States and reading the sign at the drive-thru immigration.

In Spanish, it read, "Good Trip" and in English, "Good Luck!"

Blue Door in Rwanda

In rural Rwandan villages, where homes are made of mud and wood, a little bit of paint goes a long way.

This photo is a favorite because of the juxtapositions: the rough textured mud wall with the flat wood panels, as well as the natural brown color with the manmade blue paint.

Cabo de la Vela: 24 Hours in Paradise

Cabo de la Vela will take you more time, energy, and money to reach than the beaches of Parque Tayrona, however, those who make the journey to will be rewarded with a little slice of paradise.

For visitors to Colombia's La Guajira Peninsula, the little seaside village of Cabo de la Vela is where most will spend their nights.

As I booked a package tour from Santa Marta, we ended up staying at a lodge 15 minutes from the main village.

The small distance offers guests an idyllic, private beach setting versus the village center, which is a collection of small wooden homes and businesses belonging to the indigenous Wayuu people.

Beach lodge — The dining facilities at our beach lodge

The dining room was a windowless, thatch-roofed building with gorgeous views of the sparkling turquoise waters.

Two wooden umbrellas were planted in the sand, offering guests small areas of shade from the intense Colombian sun.

12 PM

The first thing everyone wants to do upon arrival is to go for a swim. And who can blame them?

The water is perfectly warm all day long, even when it's cloudy.

Fresh warm water lobsters — Fresh, warm water lobsters.

1 PM

Imagine returning from a swim on your own deserted beach to freshly boiled lobster smothered in butter!

That's exactly what can happen, as long as the lobster is available that day, and you're willing to pay the extra 15,000 pesos ($8) for it.

Otherwise, you may end up with fresh, fried Pargo (red snapper).

2 PM

After lunch, you'll jump back in the Land Cruiser and visit some of the local sites, which hold spiritual significance for the Wayuu people.

More swimming ensues at another beach.

6 PM

Sunsets in Cabo de la Vela are a sight to behold, and because the area doesn't get much rain, you have a good chance of catching a pretty one.

Once the sun goes down, you'll have a few hours of electricity provided by generators.

7 PM

Entrees for dinner are on a rotation. However, you can be sure that whatever's on offer is a staple of the local diet. Entrees include Pargo, lobster, goat, and beef.

And if you like goats, try not to notice them grazing around the lodge, because chances are you'll end up eating one of them.

Colorful Wayuu hammock — A colorful, hand-woven Wayuu hammock.

9 PM

The 6-hour drive from Santa Marta, the heat, the swimming, and the (optional) beers tends to catch up with everyone by mid-evening.

The local Wayuu are known for their woven hammocks. Therefore guests spend the night sleeping in them under a thatched roof.

The hammocks are designed with extra flaps that hang down on the sides; however, they can be wrapped over you for warmth, and protection from bugs and mosquitoes.

Depending on your bargaining skills, the colorful hammocks go for $200 - $300 if bought directly from the Wayuu.

Prices can be double or more if purchased in other parts of Colombia, and even higher when bought from abroad.

At night, before going to sleep, or during a midnight run to the toilet, be sure to look up at the dark sky for some of the brightest stars you'll ever see.

The lack of development on La Guajira, combined with its coastal location, ensures minimal light pollution to obscure views.

The Next Morning

A breakfast of arepas with eggs and cheese will be served, along with hot chocolate or coffee.

Morning swims at sunrise are popular, and then you'll have some time to kill with a book or cards before it's time to leave.

For one night trips, you'll head back to Santa Marta. For two night trips, you'll either stay another night at Cabo de la Vela (not recommended as there's nothing to do), or drive and take a boat to Punta Gallinas, the northernmost point of the peninsula, Colombia, and therefore, the South American continent (recommended).

How to Get There

Single or multi-day tours can be booked through several companies with offices in central Santa Marta and Taganga.

I booked a 2-day trip through Magic Tour Taganga, which also has an office in Santa Marta, near the Cathedral (Calle 16, 4-41. Tel: 421-5820).

The cost was $215 and included all transport, two nights accommodation in a hammock at a ranch outside Cabo de la Vela, and seven meals.

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My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is available for Kindle and PDF.

How to Enjoy Stone Town, Zanzibar

Located on the island of Unguja in the Zanzibar archipelago, Stone Town is the most important and populous town on the islands.

It's a city that is rich with history, layered with culture and the ancient stone walls have an attitude of charming character.

Zanzibar is not only about the beautiful beaches, but also about taking a walk through Stone Town and discovering the gems it has to offer.

In Stone Town, I like to start the morning off early with a cup of soothing ginger coffee at Jaws Corner. In my book, coffee and conversation don't get much better.

It's an early AM hangout for local Stone Town (mostly male) residents and a place to share daily news over cheap cups of brew.

The morning time attracts men that have just come in from the sea after a night of fishing as well as men that are about to start their daily routine.

After coffee, it's nice to head over to the Darajani Market located on the edge of the old part of Stone Town Zanzibar.

The fresh produce and catches of the sea are an interesting site to observe.

If you get there at a lucky time, you'll be able to see a fish auction and maybe even a tiger shark being chopped up and sold off by the chunk.

You can do a bit of snacking around this market and also drink a few cups of freshly squeezed sugar cane juice mixed with lime and ginger.

Stone Town is a wonderful place to walk around, explore, and ultimately get lost in.

The narrow corridor-like streets create a confusing labyrinth of passageways.

If you find yourself going in circles trying to escape the maze, there's always a friendly local that will willingly help you out and direct you to the path you need.

While you're wandering, check out a few of the sites such as the Palace Museum, the Old Fort, and a few Zanzibar Cathedrals and Mosques.

Though it's run down and not in use anymore, the former Zanzibar High Court with its Moorish architecture is among my favorite buildings to view in Stone Town.

The House of Wonders, located on the oceanfront of Stone Town, is considered the National Museum of Zanzibar.

Though it's not the most impressive museum in the world, it does offer some useful insights into the history of the island.

Lukmaan Restaurant in Stone Town arguably serves the best Zanzibari biryani and pilau in town - and that's an achievement to be proud of!

I usually go with the fish or beef biryani first and if I'm feeling up for it, I also down a plate of fish pilau.

The intricate culinary recipes of Zanzibari cuisine have been influenced by Arabs and Indians throughout the years to create an extraordinary multi-cultural food scene.

Biryani and pilau are both spiced rice dishes that are accompanied by choice of meat or fish.

In the afternoon there's time to leisurely browse the shopping district that's filled with souvenirs and exotic Zanzibar gifts to bring home.

I tend to skip this part altogether and opt for a lazy afternoon nap instead.

In the late afternoon, Mr. Babu opens shop on the wall of the Old Fort.

He serves an exquisite kahawa ya tangawizi (ginger coffee) which is the perfect way to ease into the afternoon and chat with friends.

For dinner, there's no other place to be in Stone Town other than the waterfront at the nightly food market known as Forodhani Gardens.

Makeshift tables are set up with the most attractive delicacies from the sea, all marinated, skewered, and ready to go.

All you have to do is walk up to a table, grab whatever skewers look tasty, and they'll throw them on the grill for you.

Note: Eat at the stalls that have plenty of locals eating there too, so you know the food is delicious and fresh.

That wraps up a day of fun and food in Stone Town Zanzibar!

La Guajira Peninsula: Desert Landscapes in Northern Colombia

I fully expected us to get stuck on the muddy, rutty riverbed road into the La Guajira Peninsula.

We were three hours northeast of Santa Marta and an hour or so beyond the coastal city of Riohacha.

The further north we pushed into Colombia's very own desert, the lower the green foliage stood.

Eventually, we'd see nothing more than scrubby bushes, and small brittle trees.

Maybe it goes back to the images of Romancing the Stone I grew up with, but my picture of Colombia was always the opposite: lush, wet, jungle.

But like the safety situation, the geographic diversity of this South American country has a way of breaking stereotypes.

La Guajira Peninsula is the northernmost region of Colombia and the whole South American continent.

Despite an apparent lack of life, this barren desert is home to the indigenous Wayuu people, of which there are approximately 144,000 across 4,000 square miles.

The Wayuu are renowned throughout Colombia for their weaving skills.

Mochilas are woven bags that are commonly carried by both men and women, and those made by the Wayuu can easily fetch 2-3 times the regular rate in the big cities like Medellin and Bogota.

Ornately designed, handmade hammocks are also available for several hundred dollars apiece.

Blessed with miles of empty beaches overlooking turquoise waters, La Guajira attracts tourists looking to escape the crowds of Parque Tayrona.

Potentially strong winds also attract kiteboarders.

Walking up Cerro Kamachi, a hill along the coast with sacred meaning to the local Wayuu offers 360-degree views of the surrounding landscape.

The short but steep walk can be done in flip-flops, albeit more slowly than if you bring a pair of sneakers.

There's also a nearby beach that's perfect for swimming, as it's easy to work up a sweat under the intense sun.

La Guajira Peninsula lacks infrastructure, which is part of its appeal.

There are no roads per se, but rather commonly driven routes from one destination to the next. Many are barely visible in the shifting sands.

At times, driving along the beaches may be required. At night, only a guide familiar with the region should be driving as it is easy to get disoriented.

Cell phone connections aren't dependable. Comcel tends to have better connections in rural areas. I was using Tigo and had no coverage.

Sunset walk — Watching the sunset over the Caribbean is a nightly event for new visitors.

View of Cabo de la Vela, a small village on the far side of the water.

4x4 territory — SUV's shuttle visitors back to Cabo de la Vela after watching the sunset.

How to Get There

Single or multi-day tours can be booked through several companies with offices in central Santa Marta and Taganga.

I booked a two-day trip through Magic Tour Taganga (I'm not sure, but they may have been renamed Magic Tour Colombia), which also has an office in Santa Marta, near the Cathedral (Calle 16, 4-41. Tel: 421-5820).

The cost was $215 and included all transport, two nights accommodation in a hammock at a ranch outside Cabo de la Vela, and seven meals.

Alcohol costs extra, so bring your own if you want to save a few bucks.

Fresh lobster cost an additional 15,000 pesos ($8) and was subject to availability.

When booking a 2+ night trip, ensure your second night is at Punta Gallinas, a small village at the northernmost point of La Guajira, and requiring a boat ride to reach.

Single-day trips are not recommended, as it takes at least 6 hours to reach La Guajira from Santa Marta or Taganga.

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My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is available for Kindle and PDF.

Where's Dave? A Travel Update

My last salsa class in Medellin. (photo: Troy Floyd)

Once again, my six months in Medellin, Colombia, have come to an end, and I find myself looking ahead with a mix of excitement and trepidation. I'm learning those two emotions go hand-in-hand with travel, regardless of one's experience.

Exactly two years ago last month, I wrapped up my 20-month trip around the world. Since then, I've split my time between living in the United States and Colombia, with short trips to Rwanda and Japan.

On the morning of August 8th, I packed my belongings into a beat-up Gregory backpack and flew to New York City to attend a family wedding (and a Yankees game). I've learned the US is the best place in the world to buy electronics.

I ditched my 15" HP laptop, which is built like a tank and has served me well the last two and a half years, for a lighter, sexier 13" Apple Macbook Air.

I also bought a Blackberry Bold 9700 to replace my stolen smartphone. I fully expect this Blackberry will get stolen too, which is why I didn't buy the most recent model, let alone an iPhone 4.

Tonight, restocked on gadgets and refueled on authentic Panang curry with chicken, I'm flying to Quito, Ecuador on Aero Galapagos. I scored the flight through Priceline for just $403.

Once I get my bearings in Quito, my first priority will be to book a 7-night cruise around the Galapagos Islands. After the Galapagos, I'm going to play it all by ear. The goal is to reach Brazil by early 2012, just in time for Carnival celebrations in February.

There are lots of cool things I want to do as I make my way across South America, including:

Hike in the Amazon rainforest.
Hunt for anacondas and fish for piranha.
See Machu Picchu at dawn.
Drive across the Bolivian salt flats, taking silly photos.
Ride a mountain bike down Death Road (Bolivia).
Drink Chilean wine in Santiago.
Get a photo on Easter Island.
Shake hands with the penguins in Antarctica.
Trek in Patagonia and climb a mountain.
Dance the tango in Buenos Aires.
Find out what's going on in Paraguay.
Check out the beach scene in Uruguay.
Learn to samba in Brazil.
Drink caipirinhas on the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana.
Marry a Brazilian swimsuit model....kidding....or am I?

Is there somewhere you'd like to see me go, or some activity not to be missed between Ecuador and Brazil? Leave a comment and let me know! And follow along in real time on Twitter and Facebook.

The Perfect Cup of Coffee in Vietnam

Once upon a time, coffee wasn't a part of Vietnam. The French introduced coffee to Vietnam during their colonial period.

Along with crusty loaves of bread, sweet pastries, and creamy pâté, coffee remained after the country gained independence. By then, it had begun to integrate itself into the Vietnamese culture.

Coffee plantation in Vietnam (photo: fxxu, Pixabay). — Coffee plantation in Vietnam (photo: fxxu, Pixabay)

Traveling to Vietnam, you will be immersed in a coffee culture that seems to have existed forever. The highlands of Vietnam offer an ideal climate and elevation for growing coffee.

For this reason, a diverse range of coffee species is produced, each offering a unique flavor. Nowadays, coffee is one of Vietnam's biggest exports, ranking second only to Brazil in global coffee production.

Roasting Coffee in Vietnam

After harvesting, coffee beans in Vietnam are often roasted dark. They're not quickly blackened but slowly roasted over low heat for a long time, creating a deep, robust flavor reminiscent of the rich dark roast coffee from Bones Coffee Company, which many enthusiasts love for its bold profile.

This roasting technique, as well as the way the coffee is brewed, is integral to the full-bodied flavor that Vietnamese coffee is so famous for.

Brewing Coffee in Vietnam

One of the most popular ways to brew a cup of coffee in Vietnam is using a straightforward, single-cup gravity drip system.

The device starts with a metal cup with tiny holes at the bottom. Ground coffee is placed on the bottom of the cup and pushed down with a small circular piece that fits within the cup.

The metal cup is placed over a real coffee cup, and hot water is poured into it. Most likely, when you order a cup of coffee in Vietnam, it will be served this way.

What kind of coffee should I drink in Vietnam?

Ca phe sua da - One of the most popular brews, especially when taking a break from the intense rays of the sun, is black coffee mixed with a dose of sweetened condensed milk and served on cubes of ice. The result is a rich chocolatey blend.
Ca phe sua nong - Identical to the brew mentioned above, except this variation is served hot.
Ca phe den nong - To get the real sense of Vietnamese coffee, try a cup of robust, black coffee devoid of any additives.

Ca phe chon (Weasel Coffee) - Have you heard of "poop coffee?" This gourmet coffee, similar to kopi luwak in Indonesia (though from a civet cat), is among the priciest beans in the world.

Essentially, coffee beans are fed to weasels who fail to digest them and end up depositing the whole beans in their feces.

Someone then has the pleasure of digging out the beans, and after that, they are ready to be served! OK, there's a bit more to it than that, but that's just a quick briefing.

I had a couple of cups of weasel coffee in Hanoi, and I was genuinely impressed. The coffee was brewed strong, but even though I drank it completely black, there was absolutely zero acidity and none of that sourness that might come from a regular cup of black coffee.

Vietnamese Coffee on the Streets — Vietnamese coffee on the streets

How to fully enjoy drinking a cup of Vietnamese coffee

You might remember that Vietnam takes things to the street, and coffee is among the leaders in that field.

Hanoi coffee shops are everywhere to be seen and impossible to miss.

Grab a 6-inch stool and pull yourself up to a street coffee shop in Vietnam. Order a couple of rounds, and you'll be ready to start the day. In a few hours, stop again and order another!

People don't just drink an energy-buzzing shot of java in the morning; many drink it throughout the day. A quick ca phe sua da is a battery charge that you going, fighting the traffic, working, or plugging away on whatever task may be at hand.

By the way, as I sit here writing this, I'm happily sipping on a cup of black Vietnamese coffee!

My Safari Experience in Tanzania's Selous Game Reserve

You may have already heard of Kruger National Park, Maasai Mara, and the Serengeti. Yet hidden among these popular wildlife sanctuaries is one of Africa's largest, the Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania.

Lion cub at Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania (photo: Richard Mortel). — Lion cub at Selous (photo: Richard Mortel)

Drawing less attention due to its remote location in Southern Tanzania, limited accessibility, and being far off the ordinary path of many travelers, the Selous Game Reserve attracts a small, adventurous crowd that is fully rewarded for making the extra trip.

My Experience

A couple of years ago, I had the opportunity to visit Selous with a few family members and relatives who came to Tanzania for a visit.

Throughout my eight years as a resident in Kenya, I had the opportunity to go on numerous safaris at various reserves across East Africa.

Selous was different, an environment that was less developed. It provided that feeling of truly being in the African wild.

For travelers seeking authentic Tanzania safari tours, the Selous Game Reserve offers boat safaris, walking excursions, and traditional game drives far from the crowds.

Elephants on the Selous Game Reserve. — Elephants in the Selous Game Reserve

Getting There

We started the trip in Dar es Salaam, the capital city of Tanzania, and made a five-hour bumpy journey by safari truck to the entrance of the reserve.

The drive on the dirt road to get there is only possible during the dry season (June to November), which is another reason the park is so isolated.

Visiting Selous doesn't come cheap due to its remote location and limited transportation and accommodation options.

Yet, even though it can be pricy, there are some ways to save on a safari, like driving yourself, visiting in the low season, and adventurously pitching your own tent at a campground like Beho Beho Bridge.

After arriving in the late afternoon, we settled into our tented camp, located on the banks of the mighty Rufiji River.

Rivers in Africa differ from those in other parts of the world. You don't just take a quick dip in the water. A leisurely swim in a river could make you the next snack for a hippo or crocodile.

Boat Ride

We boarded a small, metal boat that felt like it was made of tin foil and set off to view the gorgeous sunset from the middle of the Rufiji River.

In the distance, I could see air bubbles rising to the water's surface from hippos. And the guide pointed out a few crocs basking in the sun's final evening rays.

Before getting into the boat, I already knew that the roly-poly hippopotamus was one of the biggest human killers in Africa. Play it wrong, and a hippo can effortlessly capsize your boat.

While we gazed into the unadulterated sunset, the guide suddenly jumped and frantically powered up the tiny outboard motor. There was a territorial hippo bull on our trail.

I started to sweat, contemplating what we would do if a giant beast came up in the middle of our boat and tossed us to our deaths in the swirling, muddy, hippo-infested waters.

I could see the boat driver panting, but covering it up with a calm smile. He drove the boat in a zigzag, reassuring me that hippos get confused by the random motions. After escaping the adrenaline-filled hippo boat ride, I was happy to be back on solid ground.

Game Drives

We spent the next day cruising around the park, seeing an abundance of wildlife, without being surrounded by other tourists (as is the case in the Serengeti).

We had the privilege of seeing lions, giraffes, elephants, and buffalo up close and personal, with views that let us look into their eyes and even see their skin twitch.

Moments like these are what make a safari in Africa so unforgettable. For travelers planning their own Africa safari trips, having knowledgeable guides and plenty of time out in the bush can make all the difference when it comes to spotting wildlife up close in its natural habitat.

Facts About the Selous Game Reserve

It's a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Africa's largest conservation wildlife reserve, covering approximately 5% of Tanzania.
Huge populations of elephant, wild dog, hippo, lion, and buffalo.
Bird viewing sanctuary.
Incredible reserve for walking and boat safaris.

If you ever have the chance to visit Tanzania, a safari to Selous Game Reserve is an adventure worth the effort.

What The Heck Is A Working Vacation?

The following is a guest post by Professor G. Michael Schneider.

The author's wife Ruth on the Freedom Highway in Tibet.

I am a fervent evangelist for the benefits of a working vacation, but before I attempt to convert you I first need to explain exactly what this is.

Over the past 30 years I have worked overseas more than a dozen times, for periods from 5 weeks to 7 months, from Australia to Zimbabwe, Mauritius to Mongolia, never once giving up my day job and always earning enough to cover my travel expenses.

As I gained experience working overseas, friends and colleagues began asking questions about how I pulled off these exotic adventures so I would explain how they could plan their own trips to their own dream destinations, That is how my blog and travel book, On The Other Guy’s Dime: A Professional’s Guide To Traveling Without Paying was born.

Many people are unaware that skilled professionals such as doctors, nurses, lawyers, teachers, business specialists, scientists, artists, and government officials are in great demand overseas, and international institutions will happily pay you to join them.

However, while the concept of working overseas might sound attractive, many professionals enjoy what they do and like the city or town where they do it. While not averse to a temporary assignment they do not want to leave home for years at a time.

Well the nice thing is that you don’t have to. My wife and I are living proof that you can have the same professional and cultural benefits in a far shorter time, as little as one to six months, and best of all, when this temporary posting ends you return to your regular home, job, and paycheck. No bridge burning required.

When I began writing about working vacations, I mistakenly assumed I would be speaking strictly to an academic audience–after all, we are the ones who get that wonderful three-month hiatus every summer. However, while teachers are an important part of my readership, the potential audience for this travel advice is far wider than that:

Retired Professionals

Your twenty-five, thirty-five, or even forty-five years of work will have generated a thick resume and an impressive skill set, exactly the person that overseas institutions are seeking.

In addition, retirement affords you the scheduling flexibility that those still working do not always have. As long as you are healthy enough for travel and overseas work, retired professionals are superb candidates for working vacations.

The Self-Employed

The self-employed are the boss and HR director all rolled into one–if you want a break just pick up and go, no questions asked.

I understand that when you are self-employed and take a leave, your proceeds grind to a screeching halt, but remember: 1) On a working vacation you receive a salary from the overseas institution, so you will not be bereft of all income, and 2) the restorative properties of a working vacation might be more important to you than a slight decrease in personal wealth.

If work and life are becoming stale and repetitive then a short-term change of scenery may trump net income.

Those Currently "Between" Jobs

In this lousy economy no one is safe from the dreaded pink slip, including skilled professionals. For those who find themselves in this unenviable position, you might wish to consider a temporary overseas posting, enjoying the freedom and flexibility of your unplanned "vacation" before sending out the next batch of resumes.

Anyone Who Can Request and Take A Short-Term Leave

Many professionals in the public and private sector can apply for and take short-term, unpaid leaves as long as they make all necessary arrangements with customers, clients, or patients. While freeing up a one-, two- or three-month block of time will not be as easy for a lawyer or concert violinist as it is for a teacher, it is often not an unrealistic possibility.

A souvenir salesman who appeared out of nowhere in the middle of the Gobi Desert.

Right about now many of you may be asking why in the world you would schlep your family halfway around the globe for months at a time to live and work in a strange new environment? That, good friends, is the $64 question, so let me provide the $65 answer.

The first reason comes directly from the name of my blog and book: On The Other Guy's Dime. Vacations are not cheap, and vacations that include a spouse and children can be particularly pricey.

It seemed to me that books about families enjoying life overseas were always written by people who had sold their businesses for millions, were living off the largesse of parents or ex'es, or were knowingly denuding their life savings–think Eat, Pray, Love; Under the Tuscan Sun; or A Year in Provence.

For most of us these options are unacceptable. The goal of a working vacation is not to dive into your own wallet to support a travel habit, but to have the other guy dive into his.

However, it isn’t only money that might motivate you to consider a short-term overseas stay.

I don't care how much you love your work–and many of us do–when you do the same things day in/day out, year after year, a sense of repetitiveness sets in, and there is a "staleness" to your daily routine.

A working vacation, in which you use your professional skills in a new and different way and in a new and different place, can refresh the soul and bring a renewed sense of pleasure to your workplace.

When you work at a local institution you have time to interact with neighbors and coworkers, to meet locals, and participate in social, cultural, and religious activities. You learn about a culture not by observing it from your hotel or bus window but by becoming an integral part of it.

In summary, then, a working vacation is a wonderful way for the entire family to combine the relaxation of a holiday with the intellectual, cultural, and professional growth that comes from working with and learning from others. And all this on the other guy’s dime!

__________

About the Author: Currently a Visiting Professor at Columbia University, Professor G. Michael Schneider has lived and worked overseas more than a dozen times, including receiving four Fulbright Scholarships to teach in Mauritius, Malaysia, Nepal and Mongolia. In addition, Prof. Schneider and his wife have lived and worked in countries from Australia to Zimbabwe, Turkey and even Tibet.

Prof. Schneider has written for several national travel magazines and has been a contributor to the Sunday Travel sections of the Miami Herald and the StarTribune. You can read more about Prof. Schneiders adventures on his blog at OtherGuysDime.wordpress.com

Prof. Schneider received his M.Sc and Ph.D. degrees from the University of Wisconsin. He taught computer science for 8 years at the University of Minnesota and 25 years at Macalester College in St. Paul prior to his retirement in 2007.

Photos courtesy of G. Michael Schneider.

Introduction to Ethiopian Food: Dishes and Customs

In my opinion, Ethiopia is one of the top contenders for the best food in the world.

Not only are the stews and sauces powerfully rich and delicious, but the style of communal eating and sharing also encourages a strong culinary bond.

After you've read this brief introduction to Ethiopian food, you'll know everything needed to appreciate and enjoy this exotic African cuisine.

Traditional Ethiopian Foods

Injera

The foundation of Ethiopian food is injera, the staple, and main filler.

It's made from the little-known grain of teff, that comes from a grass that is exclusively grown in the Ethiopian highlands, and parts of Northern Africa.

Teff flour is mixed into a batter, fermented for a few days and then cooked in the shape of a massive pancake.

It has a spongy texture and a slightly sour taste, reminiscent of sourdough bread.

The flatbread is then rolled into pieces and eaten with various curries and vegetables.

Serving Ethiopian Food

Ethiopian meals are commonly served off a communal platter.

The standard procedure is to lay out an entire circular round of injera on a metal plate and then scoop the colorful array of dishes on top of the initial blanket of injera.

Everyone then hovers around the plate with their roll of injera, breaking off bite-size pieces and dipping them into the delicious sauces and stews.

When the food off the top is finished, it's fair game to start eating the base (that first piece of injera) that has sopped up all the tasty flavor.

Berbere

Berbere is the Ethiopian version of curry paste.

It's made from a combination of fragrant ingredients that usually includes onions, garlic, ginger, chili, salt, paprika, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamon, pepper and sometimes fenugreek.

The result is a thick paste that forms the underlying base of flavor for many Ethiopian dishes.

A few of my favorite Ethiopian dishes

Shiro Wat

Chickpeas are mashed into a paste and mixed with a heavy dose of berbere sauce and Ethiopian clarified butter to form a paste that's just packed with flavor.

Key Wat

Cubes of tender beef are marinated and made into a thick stew with a lovely spice to it.

A bit of key wat with a handful of injera is the ultimate bite to cherish.

Kitfo

Ethiopia's version of steak tartare is a combination of raw beef, seasoning spices, and a splash of Ethiopian butter.

The thinly sliced meat melts in your mouth.

Derek Tibs

I think every country in the world has a version of roasted meat.

Ethiopia's is charbroiled with peppers, onions, and oil to make it sizzle on the edges.

Gomen

This vegetable dish is made from collard greens and onions that are simmered until soft, mixed with a few mild spices, and served alongside the more flavorful stews.

Traditional Ethiopian Drinks

Honey Wine - Tej

It has a sweet bite, and the times I've had it, it reminds me of a fruity cocktail, but much better.

A homemade bottle of Tej goes incredibly well with an Ethiopian meal.

Ethiopian Coffee

As the birthplace of coffee, Ethiopia takes its brew seriously. You won't be drinking that weak instant stuff.

They roast the beans black, brew in a small clay pot, and serve the coffee thick and chocolatey.

If you have the chance, an Ethiopian coffee ceremony is a great experience.

In the middle of roasting the coffee beans, the server will bring the pan around to allow you to take a sniff.

After the coffee beans are finished roasting and the coffee is brewed, the server will pour it into small cups on your table.

As you sip on your fantastic Ethiopian coffee, your nose will be graced by the aromatic scent of burning frankincense that often accompanies a coffee ceremony.

Of course, the country of Ethiopia is the best place to eat Ethiopian food, but restaurants are starting to sprout up around the world.

I know in the United States the cuisine is available in every major city.

The next time you see an Ethiopian restaurant, go check it out and let me know what you think!

Review: The Blogger's Guide to Travel PR

As travel blogging continues to gain credibility as a profession, the number of opportunities opening up continues to increase.

Once the domain of freelancers and print travel writers, working with PR companies and tourism boards is starting to become the norm.

Since most bloggers don't have a clue about the PR world, conferences such as TBEX have helped to educate them and bridge the gap. Last week, a new resource became available, and out of curiosity, I picked up a virtual copy.

Written by Angie Orth, The Blogger's Guide to Travel PR is the perfect primer for blogger's looking to capitalize on their growing audiences and influence in the online world.

Angie's professional background is in travel PR, and before leaving on her current trip around the world, she spent 4 years working at Weber Shandwick, the world's biggest public relations agency.

This makes her uniquely qualified to share the in's and outs of working with PR companies and tourism boards to try and arrange reduced cost, or even free, trips and tours.

Topics Covered

Intro to PR
Intro to press trips (ie. free, or sponsored travel) and what to expect
What publicists look for in a travel blogger
Ethics of press trips
How to pitch PR companies
Proper behavior on press trips
Lots of funny anecdotes

What I Liked

Trust -- Given Angie's PR background, I feel completely comfortable acting on her guidance.
Length & Format -- It's quick and easy to read. I got through the 63 pages in about 30 minutes.
PR Agency Contacts -- In the Appendix, Angie includes the names and contacts for top travel PR agencies.
Humor -- Angie's personality comes through, making for a fun read.
Price -- it's only $12.

Areas for Improvement

Depth -- It's like a good first date -- you learn the basics, but you're left wanting to know more.
Details -- I was hoping to find a template, or real world example of a successful pitch made by a blogger to a PR agency for a free or subsidized trip or tour. I think that would go a long way in helping travel blogger's approach PR contacts more confidently.

Bottom Line

At just $12, The Blogger's Guide to Travel PR is the perfect primer for new travel bloggers, or those without prior knowledge of the public relations world.

Experienced bloggers should buy the guide for the PR agency names and contacts in the Appendix.

4 Advantages of Traveling with Technology In the Middle East

The Middle East is a gray spot on the map for many travelers. People who've never been often conjure up images of sand, camels, and rustic surroundings.

There are also ideas of widespread repression and censorship amid waves of violent chaos. You may be frightened to visit and be convinced that your connection to the outside world will be cut, making Facebook a mere memory.

Alexandria library in Egypt — Alexandria Library in Egypt

Yet, finding the Internet in places like Egypt, Oman, or Qatar isn't like looking for water in the desert, and getting around online censorship is easier than governments would like you to know.

The truth is that the Middle East is a young region, with 65% of the population under 30 and online users jumping by more than 1,800% in the last 10 years.

Many of those users are from places you might not expect. For example, there are more people online in Iran than in Egypt, Jordan, or Israel…combined. Nearby Turkey also has the world's 4th largest Facebook penetration (right behind the UK).

Most hotels, guesthouses, and cafes have wireless Internet access for one simple reason. There's a demand for it.

Cafe Culture with Wireless Signals and Shisha Clouds

In general, the Arab world is a cafe culture. The pace of life is a step or two slower than in the West, and social bonds are scented with tea leaves, water pipes, and good conversation.

Free wireless access is also abundant - expanding these watering holes from physical to digitally social meeting places.

You'll also get to see where the blood of Arab culture pumps from, while at the same time updating your friends about it on Twitter.

Low Crime and Gadget Friendly

Most Middle East nations have relatively low rates of street crime. Popping open a laptop while sipping Turkish coffee in Doha isn't going to make you a target for theft.

Walking the streets of Cairo, chatting away on your iPhone, is probably going to make you look more like a local than anything else.

Censorship is a Joke

Even when Egypt completely pulled the plug on its Internet Service Providers (ISPs) this past January in an attempt to cut off online access, the masses still found ways to connect. (Using satellite phone and dial-up connections mostly.)

That was, of course, an extreme condition, but most of your run-of-the-mill site and Skype blocking is incredibly easy to get around, especially with the free tech support included with the Ultimate Tech Guide for Travelers.

Middle Eastern Digital Delight

From every single mall in Dubai to Doha's International Airport and the cafes of Cairo, the Middle East is under a nice blanket of wireless Internet. Free, of course, which is the best kind for any traveler.

Hopefully, these realities will help dispel some of your digital preconceptions about the cultures in the Middle East - I can assure you once you go, many others will delightfully prove you wrong as well.

_________

About the Author: Anil Polat is a former computer hacker now blogging his way around the world on his site, foXnoMad.

Review: Eating Thai Food Guide

I love Thai food. I spent 10 weeks in Thailand during my trip around the world, and I'll never forget that first Panang Curry with Chicken I enjoyed on Chaweng Beach in Koh Samui (yep, that's a photo of it above).

During my time there, I had a regular rotation of four curries: green, red, panang, and mossaman, but despite taking a cooking class in Chiang Mai, I never really expanded my knowledge of Thai cuisine.

The good news is Mark Wiens, the blogger behind Migrationology.com and a regular contributor here at Go Backpacking, wants to help people like you and me learn more about the rich and varied cuisine of Thailand.

He recently published the Eating Thai Food Guide, which he put together based on his own experience living in Thailand.

I had the chance to preview the guide before it was released, and I was blown away by the amount of information he included. Not only does he cover a wide range of topics, he includes photos of every dish mentioned!

This 88-page guide includes:

Tips for ordering Thai food
Bangkok restaurant recommendations (with addresses, hours and prices)
Most common Thai dishes, including street food
Etiquette
Food encyclopedia of 140+ dishes
39+ healthy / vegetarian options
Thai drinks and desserts

Did I mention he includes photos of everything?

He even went so far as to list the names of dishes in the Thai language as well as English.

If you're a Thai food lover and want to expand your knowledge on this beloved Asian cuisine, you can now pick up your copy of the Eating Thai Food Guide for just $7.

El Cabo San Juan: The Best Beach in Parque Tayrona

El Cabo San Juan Beach in Parque Tayrona, Colombia — El Cabo San Juan Beach in Parque Tayrona.

El Cabo San Juan beach is an undeveloped tropical paradise in Parque Tayrona. Situated along the northeast Caribbean coast, it's easy to access and deserving of its reputation as one of Colombia's, if not South America's, prettiest beaches.

To get there requires a little bit of effort, but it'll be worth it. Santa Marta is the main jumping off point for visits to Parque Tayrona. You can book a cheap flight, or take a bus if you're already within Colombia.

Want to stay in Santa Marta? Book your hostel here

Once in Santa Marta, or the nearby fishing village of Tanganga, the most popular way to reach the entrance of Parque Tayrona is to book a shuttle service from your hostel or hotel. I booked my trip at La Casa de Felipe in Tanganga, which you can do whether or not you're staying there.

The cost was about 15,000 pesos ($8.50), and it turned out to be the not-so-quick and comfortable way to go. They squashed as many people as possible into the minivan, and when the last few travelers who booked the shuttle saw their only comfortable option would be the roof, they took a more costly taxi instead.

And I bet they got there a lot faster than us, as we stopped several times for people to get money from ATM's, as well as snacks and water.

After an easy 30-minute walk through the jungle, Arrecifes Beach will be your first view of the Parque Tayrona coastline.

Once on our way, it wasn't more than an hour's drive up the coast to the park entrance. Foreigners pay 34,000 pesos ($19) to enter, while most Colombians pay 13,000 ($7.50).

The shuttle will drive you further into the park. If you've arranged your own transport, such as a taxi, make sure it drives you to the start of the trail as well. If you make the mistake of being let off at the park entrance, you'll have a minimum 1-hour walk along a paved road that looked very boring. Don't waste your energy to save a few dollars.

At the start of the trail, you'll see some horses for rent. The cost is about 16,000 pesos ($9). If you choose to walk, as most do, it's an easy 30 minutes through the jungle, on a clearly marked trail. It can get muddy in places, so you'll be more comfortable in shoes. If you only bring flip flops, it's still possible, but will be faster (if not more painful) barefoot.

After a half hour, you'll start hearing the crashing waves, at which point you'll emerge from the jungle on a rocky outcropping. The way down isn't clearly marked, so if you find yourself at a dead end requiring rock climbing skills, you're going the wrong way. Back up and look for the trail down to Arrecifes beach.

This first beach has dangerous riptides, and it's not advised that you swim there. Several hundred visitors have died along these beaches, so don't become a statistic. That said, I did the initial jungle walk with a rowdy group of six Chileans, and upon seeing this first beach, they immediately went for a swim in the shallows, despite a clearly heavy surf.

Arrecifes beach is the first of three. It's about a 50-minute walk to the second, named La Piscina. Both of these beaches have fincas where you can stay, however both are more popular with Colombians than foreigners, who prefer the more picturesque El Cabo San Juan.

It takes about an hour and a half walking at a leisurely rate to reach El Cabo San Juan, which features a single finca with restaurant, hammocks, and camping ground. A short walk beyond El Cabo is a nude beach, however this is generally only visited by sun worshipers staying at El Cabo.

2011 prices for accommodations at Finca Cabo San Juan are:

Cabin: 50,000 pesos ($28)
Hammock on rocks: 25,000 pesos ($14)
Hammock by beach: 20,000 pesos ($11)
Tents: 25,000 pesos ($14)
Own hammock or tent: 15,000 pesos ($8.50)

Prices are per person. Checkout is 2 PM. Electricity runs from 6 PM to 10 PM, though sometimes the generator is on during the day too. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Prices range from 8,000 to 20,000 pesos ($5 - $11) per meal.

Bring snacks, but there's no point bringing all your own food and water. It's heavy to carry, you need to supply your own pots/utensils, and no fires are allowed.

The best place to spend the night is a hammock in the bungalow on the rocks. It offers 360-degree views of the sea and coastline.

In addition to better views, you'll only hear the crashing waves below, whereas guests staying at the campground are exposed to the noise from the generator every night. Plus, the campground is set back from the water (and therefore sea breeze), so mosquitoes are a potentially bigger problem. Rented hammocks include mosquito nets.

El Cabo San Juan — Two girls cross the small stream that splits the two beaches of El Cabo.

But there are a few downsides to staying in the hammocks on the rocks as well. Due to your exposure to the wind, it can get chilly at night. Definitely bring a change of warm clothes for the nights, such as a hoodie and pants. A light sleeping bag would also work well. The finca rents blankets for a small fee.

I had a base layer, t-shirt, and thin hoodie, along with board shorts, and was still cold enough to shiver. It took me an hour or two to fall asleep, but once I did, I slept pretty well and there were no issues with mosquitoes.

Another downside to staying high up on the rocks is your ability to access them. Namely, it requires crossing a small stream that cuts through the sandy split between beaches. At low tide, it's only a foot or two deep, with a gentle current -- no big deal. At high tide, it's a different story. The water can be chest-high, and the current out to sea is much stronger.

The sandy split of El Cabo at high tide — At high tide, the stream between beaches became much deeper, giving beachgoers a greater reason to pause.

Unfortunately, as I found out during my stay, the tide comes in during the early evening.

Picture this, you enjoy a nice dinner with new friends, maybe a few beers, and then are walking back to the cabin with just a head torch to light your way.

What was once an easy-to-cross stream has become a torrent of muddy water. You have no choice but to wade through the water, and climb up on the exposed rock that acts as a partial bridge. From the rock, you have to make a short leap onto a wet wooden plank held in place by a few sandbags. Oh, and it might be raining too.

So I think part of why I was shivering before falling asleep was the fact that I had to get soaking wet to return to the hammocks. They don't warn you about this when you choose where to stay.

While I only had a beer or two, several girls got properly drunk, and I could hear their screams as they waded through the cold water to get back to their hammock later in the evening.

View of the popular bungalow with hammocks — The bungalow atop the rocks features about 15 hammocks on the main level, and 2-3 private bedrooms on the second floor.

When the sun is out, the main beach at El Cabo San Juan is the hub of activity. It could easily be a beach in the South Pacific. Guys love climbing on the big rocks, while most of the girls are happy to work on their tans.

Speedboat service — A speedboat service shuttles travelers once a day between El Cabo San Juan and Taganga for about $20 (one way).

There are several ways to exit El Cabo San Juan.

You can walk back the way you came, which can take about two hours, and then catch a bus or taxi back to Santa Marta. You can rent a horse to speed up the experience. Or my personal preference, pay 40,000 pesos ($25) for a seat on the daily speedboat back to Taganga.

The boat ride lasts 45 minutes to an hour, depending on the seas. One Aussie girl I spoke with who took the boat to El Cabo San Juan said it was the worst boating experience of her life, and she'd spent time working on cruise ships. Apparently the sea was rough, and the boat bounced up and down violently, causing her to get doused with water the whole trip.

My ride back to Taganga was perfect, and a fun way to see a section of the coast that isn't otherwise accessible.

____________

My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

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Phra Pradaeng District: A Breath of Fresh Air in Bangkok

Looking towards Bangkok form Prah Pradaeng — Looking towards Bangkok form Phra Pradaeng

Phra Pradaeng District is known as Bangkok's green lung.

On the edge of Bangkok's cloud of smog and wall of skyrise buildings is a green refuge, a suburb that has been set aside as a quiet residential neighborhood.

Canals haven't been filled in to make way for roads and plots of trees and overgrown shrubs still exist in full bloom next to businesses and markets.

Everything is just more relaxed in Phra Pradaeng. It's a place to remove yourself from the stress of Bangkok, while remaining within the city.

Quiet street in Prah Pradaeng — Quiet street in Phra Pradaeng

Though just moments from the chaotic side of hustle and bustle, Phra Pradaeng is still an area where it's possible to enjoy a peaceful bowl of noodles, take a calm walk next to a canal, or just breath fresh air.

People still ride their bicycles in harmony, not having to worry about getting hit by roaring streams of traffic or inhaling lungs full of putrid truck fumes.

It's the one place in Bangkok where man powered bicycle rickshaw taxis are one of the most popular ways to get around, not obnoxious tuk tuks.

Prah Pradaeng Market — Phra Pradaeng Market

There's a real feeling of community, a sense that everyone knows each other and people genuinely take the time to chit chat, be friendly and help each other out.

Market vendors smile, beg you to purchase or sample their products, and are honestly excited to see you visit!

Even the central Phra Pradaeng market is calm in comparison to most market scenes in Bangkok.

The fruit and vegetables look to be just slightly fresher than elsewhere, and because time seems to move slower, people arrange their vegetables in an artistic fashion.

Vegetable and Spice Arrangements — Vegetables and spices neatly arranged

Seeing the brightly colored variety of fresh produce and the selection of Thai herbs and spices offers a glimpse into the reason Thai food is so delicious.

I couldn't help but marvel at the museum-worthy market displays of Thai chilies, limes, onions, and tomatoes.

Restaurant in Prah Pradaeng — Restaurant in Phra Pradaeng

There's not the endless supply of street food like in central Bangkok, but there are still many eating options to choose from and a selection of restaurants that are surrounded by lush scenery overlooking the Chao Praya river.

The last time I visited Phra Pradaeng, I stumbled into a restaurant that I found irresistible to pass.

After being lured in by the attractive smell of pork balls and steamed noodles, I was directed to a tranquil loft on the second floor, surrounded by banana and mango trees.

The restaurant was famous for a certain bowl of noodles known as Kuay Teow Tom Yum Sukhothai (Sukhothai style noodles in spicy Thai soup).

The dish started out with a choice of noodles that were flash boiled in scorching water and tossed into the bowl.

A variety of pork balls, fish cake, barbecued pork, string beans, and toasted garlic were all added to the noodles before the spicy soup was ladled on top.

Lastly, a handful of garnishing herbs, a few deep-fried chips, and a little piece of shredded deep fried papaya completed the masterful mixture.

As I slurped down the perfect bowl of noodles in the most ideal of environments, I couldn't have been much happier or more relaxed.

If you are looking to find a breath of fresh air in Bangkok, Phra Pradaeng makes the perfect day trip getaway.

Bicycles are available for rent in the area if you are interested, but sometimes it's also just nice to take a walk, forget about the giant city, and enjoy one of most pleasant districts in Bangkok!

Tahiti v. Fiji: Incorporating South Pacific Islands In A RTW Trip

Moorea, French Polynesia — Hanging out on Moorea, a small island west of Tahiti.

My Mom took more than a few solo trips in her twenties, before meeting my Dad. One such trip was to Australia, by way of Fiji. A black wooden spear, and a picture of a traditionally dressed Fijian man, were two of her souvenirs that adorned our house when I was growing up.

When it came time to plan my own visit to New Zealand and Australia, as part of my trip around the world, I came very close to booking a direct flight over the entire South Pacific.

I naively assumed the cost of Fiji holidays, or touching down on any island nation, would be too high -- they were the domain of the rich and famous, not budget travelers.

Luckily, I came to my senses, thinking how much of a waste it'd be to fly over the entire Pacific Ocean and not stop on at least one remote island paradise.

Upon doing further research, I discovered there were two popular destinations for backpackers on 'round the world trips: Tahiti (French Polynesia) and Fiji.

Tahiti & French Polynesia

Tahiti. The name of French Polynesia's most populated island just sounded exotic. And when it comes to making travel decisions, sometimes that's all I need. But it also sounded expensive.

To find out if I could afford a brief stop in French Polynesia en route to New Zealand, I searched the BootsnAll message boards. A few travelers had taken the time to share their experiences, including the cost of staying at a campground called Chez Nelson on the island of Moorea, a one hour ferry ride west of Tahiti.

About $20 per night afforded a roof over your head in a small (and I mean closet-sized) room. But that was enough for me to consider the option further.

Next, I looked up flights, and found that it would actually be about $100 cheaper to fly to New Zealand on Air Tahiti Nui, including a stopover in French Polynesia, then if I were to fly straight to Auckland on Air New Zealand. After giving it a lot of consideration, I booked the Air Tahiti flight, with a 5-night stopover in the middle of the South Pacific.

During my stay, I couchsurfed with a French doctor, watched the sun set from a black sand beach, partied under the crystal clear stars, and snorkeled with sharks.

While I didn't go on any organized adventure tours, I did help my new doctor friend drive his Volkswagen down a steep and treacherous mountain, at night, in the rain. I was so anxious, I had images of plunging off the mountain into the abyss below. Thankfully, it was an automatic.

I averaged $66 per day, which ironically, was 33% less than I'd end up spending per day in New Zealand and Australia. In retrospect, travel in the South Pacific had the potential to be much cheaper than I ever imagined. And I wish I'd given myself more time there.

Fiji

Fiji was far and away the more popular destination for backpackers when I was researching where to go. And I still believe that's the case today.

The cost of traveling there is less, and there are plenty of Fiji holiday packages available to suit anyone's needs. Both Fiji and Tahiti are popular diving destinations, and I know Nomadic Matt, for one, learned to dive in Fiji a year or two ago with Gary Arndt of Everything-Everywhere.com.

Given my Mom had been to Fiji in her youth, the idea of visiting it as well held an added appeal. Combined with the lower costs, I was tempted. Ultimately, I decided to go with Tahiti and French Polynesia because it seemed like fewer backpackers were going there.

But I don't think you can go wrong when it comes to picking island destinations in the South Pacific.

The only mistake you can make when planning a trip around the world is to pass over an entire ocean and not make the effort to touch down at lease once.

7 Links: Top Stories from Go Backpacking's Archive

Five years ago, as I was just getting started with travel blogging, there were only a handful of people who were actively connecting with one another.

Back then, before the rise of social media, it was mostly done via reading each other's blogs and commenting on them.

In addition, one way to get another blogger's attention was to tag him or her in a new post.

Certain topics or themes would naturally crop up on several blogs at once, and at the end of the post, we'd link to a friend's blog to engage them in the discussion.

In 2011, that approach seems antiquated, however, the folks at Tripbase have resurrected the idea, in an effort to bring travel bloggers together.

Stephanie at Twenty-Something Travel tagged me, and thus I present seven articles of the more than 1,500 published here since 2007.

Most Beautiful Post

Photo Essay: Sexy Colombian Models

In 2010, my friend Troy and I went to Colombiamoda, Colombia's annual fashion week, to take photos.

I had a hunch beautiful lingerie and bikini models would be a hit, but I didn't expect it to become one of this blog's top posts for the year.

Most Popular Post

Cost of A Trip Around the World

For 15 months, I counted almost every penny I spent on my trip around the world.

In the end, I shared my costs with the world. This post has been the blog's most popular for 3 years and counting.

Most Controversial Post

An Open Letter to My Blogging Brethren

I don't tend to take on controversial topics or write highly opinionated pieces, however, I do get worked up from time to time.

In this post, at the conclusion of my trip around the world, I vent about some of the challenges of blogging consistently from the road.

Most Helpful Post

Fear of Travel: Don't Let it Stop You From Seeing the World

In this post, I recount some of the roadblocks I faced before, during, and after traveling the world.

This post received a lot of positive feedback. Ironically, a few weeks later, I was robbed at gunpoint and reflected on my own advice to try and calm my nerves.

Surprise, This Post Was More Successful Than I Expected

Top 10 Movies to Get You Going in 2010

Compiled by Troy, a regular contributor from 2009-2010, this post immediately became the blog's second most popular thanks to a #1 ranking in Google for the "travel movies" keyword.

Hopefully, it has introduced travelers to plenty of interesting movies they wouldn't have otherwise known about.

Most Underrated Post

Cage Diving with Great White Sharks

Cage diving with great white sharks off the coast of Gansbaai, South Africa was truly one of the greatest travel adventures of my life.

I first learned of the activity from a pair of American girls who were finishing up their own RTW trip on the island of Moorea in French Polynesia. 9 months later, I was coming face to face with Jaws!

Post I'm Most Proud Of

Remembering the 1994 Tutsi Genocide

Flowers at Rwanda's genocide memorial in Kigali.

In advance of my trip to Rwanda last year, I read Shaking Hands With the Devil about the 1994 genocide in Rwanda.

It was a huge book, but I devoured it quickly, and it greatly enriched my knowledge of the country once I was on the ground, and walking through the genocide museum in Kigali.

And now it's my turn to tag a few bloggers. I'd like to see 7 links from:

Mike at Vagabondish
Troy at FOGG Odyssey
Mark at Migrationology

Top 5 Zanzibar Beaches (and Where to Stay)

The archipelago of Zanzibar consists of two main islands: Unguja and Pemba. Unguja (aka Zanzibar Island) is the most populated and famous. This list of top Zanzibar beaches is from Zanzibar Island. Zanzibar is located in the Indian Ocean, just 15 miles (25 km) off the coast of mainland Tanzania.

A beautiful Zanzibar beach — Zanzibar beach (photo: Nici Keil from Pixabay)

It's easy to take a short plane ride or a ferry from the capital Dar Es Salaam to Zanzibar.

Best Accommodation Deals in Zanzibar

Most popular search engines (Booking.com, Agoda, etc.) have a range of accommodation options in Zanzibar. However, we recommend you start your search with Hotels Combined, which searches all the popular booking sites to find the best price. We've included some fantastic deals near each beach below.

Zanzibar Beaches

1. Ras Nungwi Beach

The Northern tip of Zanzibar is special. Unlike the East and West coastlines, the top island location is blessed by not having to deal with high and low tides. This makes Nungwi the perfect Zanzibar beach if you are looking to swim around the clock without having to walk far out to sea to chase the ocean.

Nungwi is known for its party atmosphere, yet it's not to be compared with party beach destinations elsewhere in the world. There are many bars and clubs, but the atmosphere remains Zanzibari style, chilled out, and low-key.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Nungwi

Lighthouse Guesthouse-A double room can be had for about $25. Breakfast is included.
Mabwe Roots Bungalows-Get a budget double bungalow with a balcony and sea view for about $45. Breakfast is included.

Related: Night Market in Zanzibar

2. Kendwa Beach

Kendwa Beach on Zanzibar Island — Kendwa Beach (photo: Yoni Lerner)

Adjacent to Nungwi, within walking distance, is Kendwa-probably my favorite beach on Zanzibar. It's a little more laid-back and a little less happening than Nungwi, which makes it a premier place to laze around.

The days are passed by relaxing on the beach, taking dips in the perfectly turquoise water, and catching shade under a banda (small shade hut). When the sun begins to set, there's always a friendly game of beach volleyball or football amongst whoever happens to be there at the time.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Kendwa

Royal Palm Kendwa-A "king room" with two king beds costs about $60 a night. If you can get some friends together, this could be a reasonably cheap option.
Mocco Beach Villa-Okay, so rooms here aren't super cheap but among the most affordable on this beach. Depending on the time of year, rooms can be had for $75 - $90, and breakfast is included.

Related: How To Enjoy Stone Town

3. Paje Beach

Paje, Zanzibar — Paje Beach (photo: Konstantin Zamkov)

One of the more popular Southeastern beach towns on Zanzibar is Paje. It's a great place to visit if you enjoy swimming in the ocean and interacting with other travelers. There's a good selection of bungalows, small restaurants, and beach bars.

Paje is one of the better areas on the island to go to if you want to learn to SCUBA dive or practice other water sports like windsurfing or kite surfing.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Paje

Summer Dream Lodge-This well-liked place has dorms starting at about $17 per bunk per night and double rooms for about $40 ($25 for a single). Breakfast is included.
Demani Lodge Zanzibar-Another well-liked spot, complete with a swimming pool, has bunks in dorms starting at about $20 per night. Doubles with shared baths are $44, and doubles with private bathrooms are $55. Breakfast is included.

Related: Nungwi Village in Zanzibar

4. Bwejuu Beach

Just North of Paje is the seaweed fishing village of Bwejuu. Although it's not the most pleasant beach on the island for swimming, it has a truly unique natural beauty. If you are looking for a quiet beach town without even having to consider interacting with others, Bwejuu is a choice beach.

What I love most about Bewjuu are the swaying palm trees that look so lean they could snap off but remain limber, dancing to the Zanzibari wind.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Bwejuu

Helwa Zanzibar Beach Bungalows-Rooms at this small guesthouse range from $45 to $65, depending on whether you stay single or double. Breakfast is included.
Villa Bwejuu-This relatively new villa offers a double room with a private bath for about $60 per night.

5. Kiwengwa Beach

The Northeastern coast also has some of the best Zanzibar beaches. A few of the island's fanciest hotels have claimed spots near Kiwengwa, where simple stretches of sand seem to go on forever. Kiwengwa is a fantastic beach if you want to splurge a little and enjoy the exclusive peace of Zanzibar.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Kiwenga

Sipano Beach Lodge-This beachfront property offers a single room for $25 or a double for $30 per night. Breakfast is included, and a tiny mini-market is on site.
Family Beach Bungalows-Room prices range between $30 and $40 for a standard double room, based on single or double occupancy. Breakfast is included, and a car rental is available for exploring the area.

The entire island of Zanzibar is filled with natural beauty everywhere you look. No matter which beach you choose, you can be assured you'll be surrounded by that laid-back island attitude that is the spirit of Zanzibar.

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Serengeti Safari & Zanzibar is a 12-day trip from Arusha to Stone Town. Go on safaris in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater before relaxing on the white-sand beaches of Zanzibar.

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East Africa Overland: Serengeti & Safari Drives is a 19-day trip from Kampala, Uganda, to Stone Town, Zanzibar. Highlights include gorilla trekking, the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, and Zanzibar beaches.

Lake Garda: Italy's Lesser Known Lake Region

View from Jetty, Malcesine, Lake Garda. (Photo: spencer77)

When asked to name a famous lake in Italy, for most, the name Lake Como springs to mind. Made famous by the Star Wars film "Attack of the Clones" as a romantic destination on another world - which the main characters run away to for a clandestine marriage - it's certainly easy to see why Lake Como is regarded by many to be Italy's most beautiful lake.

When it comes to beautiful lakeside scenery, stunning mountain backdrops and picturesque towns and villages however; the lesser known Lake Garda certainly makes a strong contender for the "most beautiful lake" title.

When I last ventured to Italy, I spent a week exploring the area around the lake, making the charming town of Malcesine my base of operations.

Here are my top 5 recommended places to visit whilst you're in the area:

Venice

What stay in the Lake Garda area could be complete without a trip to Venice, the city of lovers and home to some of the most beautiful architecture I've seen; I certainly fell head over heels for this amazing place and found that 1 day just wasn't enough to make the most of what it has to offer.

A coach trip from Malcesine took around 2 and a half hours to drive to the nearest point on land, after this a short boat ride across the lagoon gets you to Venice proper so you can explore to your hearts content.

Don't miss: Bridge of Sighs, St Mark's Square, Grand Canal, Rialto Bridge, Gondola Ride's & Trips around the lagoon.

Monte Baldo

Whilst staying in Malcesine, it was hard to miss the spectacular Monte Baldo Mountain which borders the lake on its eastern side. An excellent skiing destination in winter and the perfect place to get unmissable photo opportunities of Malcesine and Lake Garda from above.

I took a cable car up to the summit from Malcesine and wasn't disappointed with the views which were absolutely stunning. As the cars ascend the mountain they slowly rotate through 360° guaranteeing everyone gets to see the views.

Verona

What could be better than visiting the city of Verona, fictional home of Shakespeare's star crossed lovers, Romeo and Juliet? For me, one of the best highlights of the trip to Verona was seeing the well preserved Roman amphitheatre and arena which was excavated in the 1800's and restored. If you like your history then you'll love Verona as the city has a wealth of Roman architecture.

You can also visit Juliet's house (Casa di Giulietta) which can be found on Via Cappello (the balcony was added in 1936 to attract tourists). A nice old house and a good photo opportunity but beyond that I didn't find this lived up to all the hype.

Don't miss: Teatro Romano (Roman amphitheatre), Castlevecchio, Lamberti Tower, Verona Cathedral & Porta Borsari.

Ferry to Limone & Riva

I'd highly recommend taking the Ferry to Limone and Riva del Garda; I bought a ticket at the dock in Malcesine and got some beautiful views of the lakeside scenery and mountain backdrop as the ferry travelled to Riva del Garda, stopping at Limone (so called because of the lemon tree orchards dotted on the steep hills which are used to make the lovely Limoncello drink Italy is famous for).

You'll also get great view of the road tunnels hewn from the rock in the early part of the 20th century; the windows cut through to the outside at intervals make for a weird and wonderful sight as the road meanders along the west side of the lake (the road was also used for the car chase scene at the start of the James Bond film, Quantum of Solace).

Riva del Garda

After taking the ferry I had chance to explore the town of Riva del Garda which is the 2nd biggest town on Lake Garda. If you're staying in a quieter town such as Malcesine, it makes a nice change to visit the bustling and tourist focussed Riva, but you might want to wait until later on when the many tourists have departed on their coaches.

Don't miss: Torre Apponale, Rocca, Riva del Garda Beach, mountain biking & a variety of boat trips.

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About the Author: Article sponsored and supplied by Chris Rowlands from the UK price comparison website moneysupermarket.com

Capsule Hotels in Tokyo

The capsule hotels in Tokyo are yet another example of the Japanese attitude toward efficient use of space.

Capsule hotels offer guests a very small space to sleep at night, along with the use of common bathrooms. The big hotels integrate onsens as well.

They are budget-friendly by Tokyo standards, and if you're wondering why a resident might subject himself to such a tight space, consider that it's the perfect solution for workers who might get drunk at a happy hour and not be in a position to return home for the night.

After my less-than-ideal experience at a Japanese onsen in Kyoto, I decided not to go to a big capsule hotel.

The reviews I read online made them seem less than desirable, though I suspect part of that had to do with the culture shock foreigners faced when experiencing their first onsen.

A room devoted to capsules — A room devoted to sleeping capsules.

Instead, I chose the Ace Inn Shinjuku, which had a whole floor devoted to glorified bunk beds encased in wood paneling, with privacy curtains and external desks.

It was actually rather fun to spend the night there, mostly because I had wi-fi access and could camp out in my little space and not be bothered by whoever else was in the room.

It reminded me of the sleepovers I'd had as a kid, where we'd build forts out of couch cushions, blankets, and whatever else we could get our hands on.

The cost was $50 per night. For $10 less per night, I'd stayed at a Lonely Planet recommended boutique hotel in the capital of Laos.

But this is Tokyo, where cheap hostel dorm beds start at $40 per night, so I chalked the difference up to a little privacy for my final night in Japan.

Taganga: Colombia's Coastal Backpacker Ghetto

It was obvious when I awoke my first morning in Taganga, a small fishing village on Colombia's Caribbean coast, that the beach would not be joining the illustrious list of other tropical paradises I've been lucky enough to visit.

The heat and humidity had me sweating from the moment I stepped off the plane, and that was after the sun had already gone down.

"Welcome to Taganga: land of peace and free of corruption, discrimination, drugs, and violence."

I'd spent the first night in a 6-person hostel dorm room, and by the following morning, I was ready to find myself a private room within reach of a sea breeze.

The main strip of Taganga looked downright depressing. Hungover. In the same way Koh San Road in Bangkok looks hungover every morning as the streets are cleaned of the garbage produced from the partying the night before.

I sat down in one of the few restaurants that were open for breakfast and took a look around.

A couple of travelers were hanging out by the beach, drinking fresh tropical fruit juices. I guessed they were up early to go diving.

Backpackers in Taganga — Backpackers nurse hangovers with fresh fruit juice from street vendors in the early morning.

There were lots of dive shops, as Taganga has a well-deserved reputation for being an inexpensive place to get your PADI certification.

My friend Marcello from Wandering Trader got his certification there a month or so earlier. The cost for open water certification is about $250 - $300.

The beach itself was small. But the surrounding mountains were not covered in the lush jungle as I imagined.

Beach at Taganga — Taganga's beach looks much more appealing when the sun is shining.

It appeared more like scrubby bushes. It felt dry and desert-like. The beach was dirty yet served its purpose of allowing visitors to sunbathe.

I wondered if this was what it was like in February 2009 when I'd met a group of Irish backpackers in Barranquilla who'd spent an entire month in Taganga. Because I didn't see the appeal.

Maybe the beaches of Thailand had spoiled me, or my expectations grew out of control over the two years it took me to finally visit.

Whatever the case, I was disappointed with what I found, though there were a few silver linings.

Dive boat in Taganga — A dive boat in Taganga prepares to take a group of scuba divers into the sea.

Reasons to Visit Taganga

Nightlife

What the village lacks in terms of daytime atmosphere, it makes up for at night with beach bars and a few discotecas.

It turns out the nightlife is better in Taganga than in Santa Marta, which doesn't say much about the latter.

I went out dancing at discoteca Sensation one night, and it was bringing in a mixed crowd of Colombians and foreigners.

Cheap diving

Go for a few days to get certified, and then get the heck out.

That said, there are plenty of other inexpensive places in the world to get certified, and they offer much prettier beaches (and I bet much clearer views underwater too).

Gili Trawangan and Koh Phi Phi come to mind if you want to go diving in Southeast Asia.

Base camp for exploring the region

Taganga may not be an idyllic beach, but for many, it will hold more appeal than staying in the nearby city of Santa Marta.

You can book the same activities from either location, including transport to Parque Tayrona, treks to Ciudad Perdida (The Lost City), and package trips to La Guajira.

Fresh seafood

Available at all the restaurants. I highly recommend the pargo (red snapper) if available.

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My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is available for Kindle and PDF.

How to Negotiate A Camel Ride to the Great Pyramids

Update: This story was originally written and published in 2011 based on my experience in 2008. Since then, I have become more aware of the potential for tourism-related animal abuse.

In 2023, PETA released video footage documenting mistreatment at the Birqash Camel Market. Given how hard it is for travelers to verify camels they ride are treated well, the only safe bet is not to ride a camel.

Camel tour office — The austere office of the camel tour business

The Great Pyramids of Giza are best experienced on a camel. Arguing that it's better to approach the last of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World in a minivan or massive air-conditioned bus would be futile. It may top the list of tourism cliches; however, riding a camel in Giza was one of my favorite experiences from a lifetime of travel and some of my favorite photos.

But there's one catch before you can enjoy this epic, time-honored tradition. You must bargain for your camel. And let me tell you; it won't be easy. My 11 days in Egypt quickly taught me that Egyptians are hardcore bargainers. It reminded me of my time in India, where I faced tough negotiators at every turn. The good news is that you can turn this potentially stressful situation into a game and a fun one, too.

Egyptian camel rides to the Great Pyramids are a popular draw for tourists — Approaching my trusty Egyptian camel outside the office

Negotiating Your Camel Ride

Note: I arranged a one-day tour of the Great Pyramids and Giza through the same Cairo-based tour company I booked my Nile River cruise. These companies are a dime a dozen downtown.

These tips assume that you are either prepared to hire your camel independently (i.e., go straight to Giza on your own) or that the tour you arrange leaves the camel negotiating up to you.

1. Do Your Homework

There are many hotels in Egypt, and even the most budget-oriented ones have staff willing to warn you about the potential tricks and scams guides and tour companies play on tourists.

Take advantage of the local advice to anticipate what's coming, and you should be able to maintain control of the experience and your money.

Be wary of booking your tours through the hotel itself. Doing so will increase the cost compared to doing it on your own, as they will get a commission for the sale.

2. Treat It Like A Game

The game begins when you arrive in Giza and walk into one of the little offices where the camel negotiations take place. You'll be warmly welcomed with smiles, laughter, tea, and possibly a lousy joke like me.

Don't get distracted by the transparent attempts to woo you. Be open to banter and rapport building, as it will benefit you just as much as the other guy.

You'll be offered several options. The agent will try to upsell you on the more expensive option, and it's your job to get that experience for as little as possible. Don't worry about the agent's financial well-being; he won't rent you a camel at a loss.

Whatever rate you ultimately agree on, he'll surely be making some profit from the transaction, though it might not be as much as the other suckers walking through his door who haven't read these tips!

3. Be Dramatic

As you consider the options presented, ask many questions-hem and haw. Consult your guidebook, delay, and pretend you have all the time in the world because, at that moment, you do.

Meanwhile, the agent is racing to book as many daily tours as possible. Time is money to him. Use this to your advantage. Watch for signs that he's becoming impatient because they'll mean you're in the driver's seat.

4. Offer 50-75 Percent Less Than the Initial Rate

One of the biggest mistakes tourists make when bargaining abroad is estimating the value of a product or service in terms of their home country's currency rather than the local currency.

If you think in US dollars while the seller thinks in Egyptian pounds, that leaves a wide margin for him and inadvertently inflates expectations and prices for future tourists.

For example, I was quoted $80 for the two-hour, "long" version of the camel ride around the Pyramids. After applying the techniques in this article, we ultimately settled on $40. I'm positive a more assertive negotiator than myself could've gotten it for even less.

On the plus side, I enjoyed an extra 30 minutes on the tour, much to the manager's dismay, who appeared to scold my camel guide upon our return.

5. Don't Be Afraid To Walk Out The Door

Plenty of camels hang around in the stables on the outskirts of the Pyramids. And plenty of agents are willing to rent those camels to tourists. If you're unsatisfied with the rates offered in the first office, don't hesitate to walk out the door and try another one.

If you booked the whole day through a larger tour company, that company has an agreement with the first office they bring you to and probably gets a commission for any sales they bring in. By showing that you're willing to go elsewhere, you're potentially removing a sale from both parties.

Be respectful but firm. If the guy doesn't try to stop you or offer you his best deal as you head for the exit, then at least you will have a better sense of the going rate when you go to the next office.

Egypt is hot, dusty, and crowded. It's easy to get overwhelmed by it all, and throwing in the back-and-forth negotiating of camels can turn an otherwise fun experience into a stressful occasion. Remember to treat it like a game and not take it too seriously.

Once you're riding through the desert, on your way to walk like an Egyptian in front of the Great Pyramids, you'll soon realize nothing else matters in those moments.

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This story is brought to you in partnership with Travel Republic Limited.

5 Safety Tips for Taking Taxis in Latin America

A Colombian taxi awaits its next customer in Cartagena.

For over two years, I've chosen to highlight the positive, fun side of living in Colombia on my other blog, Medellin Living.

However, after being robbed a few weeks ago, in broad daylight on a busy street, I'm taking my personal security more seriously than ever before.

Being robbed at gunpoint will do that to any man or woman, and to not share what I've learned from the experience would be a waste of the anxiety and fright that resulted.

There are countless strategies the bad guys use in Latin America to separate targets from their wealth.

These are a collection of tips from Colombian taxi drivers I've been given since sharing my story with them.

While I still don't think it's practical to adhere to every tip 100% of the time, I will no longer be so lackadaisical when taking taxis in foreign countries.

1. Do not hail taxis from the street, call in advance.

Some taxi drivers may be working in partnership with the thieves who rob you.

Upon spotting something of value on your person, be it an expensive phone, jewelry, or camera, they call the thief to report your route.

Because the thieves know the license plate, they can easily identify in which taxi you're traveling and wait for you to reach a stoplight or turn down a deserted road so they can execute their theft.

Drivers working for taxi services are more trusted by Colombians.

If you're living abroad for a few months or more, you should build relationships with a few trusted drivers who work various hours of the day.

This allows you to have a trusted driver on demand 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

If you rely on taxis to get around, this makes a lot more sense than taking the risk of riding with a random driver every time (even though 99.99% of the taxis rides I've taken in Colombia have been without incident).

The downside is you have to be more patient then if you hailed the next available taxi driving down the street.

Also, sometimes taxis don't show up when scheduled, resulting in time wasted while you wait for another one.

2. Do not sit in the front passenger seat, sit in the back.

I believe the logic with this tip is that you're less visible, and less accessible since you're able to sit in the middle seat or move to the opposite side should a thief approach you.

The downside is it's harder to have a conversation with the driver, especially if your Spanish is weak.

And, the view isn't as nice as what you get from the front seat.

3. Do not ride with the windows rolled down, keep them up or slightly cracked.

Thieves are looking for easy targets.

By making little changes to the way you ride in a taxi, you signal it'd be easier for them to target someone else.

Keeping the window rolled up may seem like a small thing to do from your perspective, but think of it from the thief's angle for a moment.

He has 30 seconds, 60 seconds max to execute the robbery at a stoplight, therefore every second counts.

If he's wasting time waiting for you to roll down your window, it increases the chances that the light will turn green before he's taken everything he wants, or that someone (such as a passing police motorbike) will notice what's happening and intervene.

The obvious downside is the lack of fresh air, which is especially appreciated in a city like Medellin with its constant Spring-like temperatures.

4. Do not show evidence of valuables, keep your expensive phone in your pocket or purse.

This was a piece of advice I read a while ago but didn't take seriously.

The more taxis I took without incident, the less it seemed to matter.

I used my Blackberry for email and messaging, so it'd often be in my lap, not held up to my ear where it could easily be snatched from a passing motorist.

That is until I became a victim of armed robbery.

It was the second Blackberry I've had stolen in the city in the last 11 months, and I'm in no rush to buy a new one.

The downside to having a nice phone, or expensive jewelry, in a developing nation is the bigger target it puts on your back. This goes for Colombians as much as it does for foreigners.

I may have been targeted simply because I was in the wrong place at the wrong time (and my skin is white), but it's also possible they saw the Blackberry in my lap and tailed us until we reached a stoplight.

5. If threatened, do not resist.

If you do find yourself in the unfortunate situation of being robbed, whether or not a weapon is clearly visible, do not resist.

Whatever you've got on you is not worth your health and well being.

Sadly, life carries less value to many people in this world, and the bad guys may not hesitate to stab or shoot you to get what they want.

I repeat, if being robbed, DO NOT RESIST.

To give yourself peace of mind, consider getting travel insurance before leaving your home country.

That way if you do lose material possessions of value, you have the opportunity to be compensated.

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My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

Anatomy Of An Armed Robbery in South America

Confronted with my own mortality, in the form of a silver revolver held fifteen inches from my face, the world around me came to a quiet standstill.

Instinct took over.

There was no time to think.

There were no options to consider.

I did what I had to do, and I did it without delay.

Warning Signs

On March 5, 2011, Freddie, a twenty-something UK man was riding in a friend's car in the Belen neighborhood of Medellin.

At a stoplight, two men tried to rob him of a gold chain. According to reports, he resisted and was shot fatally in the chest.

When I read the news on Colombia Reports earlier in the year, it sent chills down my spine.

Belen is a large, working-class neighborhood on the Western side of the city. I lived there for five weeks in 2010 and visited monthly to extend my tourist visa in Colombia.

The story reiterated my conviction that if I was ever robbed in South America, whether the assailant was visibly armed or not, I would hand over whatever was in my possession.

Monthly Routine

June 15 started like any other day. I roused myself out of bed around 9 AM and opened the blinds to expose the western mountains of Medellin, as well as my view toward barrio Belen.

I'd been back in Colombia for four months and was due to extend my tourist visa for another 30 days.

After three years in the country, the process was second nature to me.

June 15 also happens to be payday in Colombia, which means more people are visiting ATM's to withdraw cash, and more thieves are on the prowl to take advantage.

I showered, dressed, and walked out the door with 150,000 pesos ($40) cash.

Half this sum would go toward the 72,350 peso deposit required to extend my visa.

The other half would help pay for taxis to and from the Departamento Administrativo de Seguridad (DAS) office.

In addition, I was carrying my four-year-old passport, the one I'd taken around the world with me to more than 22 countries since 2007.

In my front left jean pocket was my Blackberry.

In my back, left pocket was a pack of gum, and in my back right pocket, my Virginia driver's license and a few business cards.

Aside from the passport, these were the things I normally carried around with me.

Leaving my apartment complex, I walked ten minutes north, through discoteca-laden barrio Colombia, to the Premium Plaza mall.

I stepped inside the cool, air-conditioned Banco Davivienda and waited in line for a teller.

I deposited the pesos and collected my bank receipt to take to DAS.

Outside Premium Plaza, I walked to the first yellow taxi in a long line, got in the front seat, and instructed the driver.

Both of the front windows were down, as is often the case during the day given Medellin's amicable climate.

In 2009, I spent my last night in Medellin dancing with friends at La Rumbantela, a small salsa bar on Calle 33.

Armed Robbery

It was 11:15 AM as we pulled into traffic. I was fiddling with my Blackberry -- checking Twitter no doubt.

In the past, I've had the occasional taxi driver warn me to keep my phone away from the open window, as to prevent theft.

Usually, that's not an issue, as I use my phone more for messaging and internet access than talking to people.

We crossed Rio Medellin, the river that bisects the city from north to south, and were heading west on Calle 33, a thoroughfare known for its nightlife on the weekends.

The taxi came to a halt at a traffic light.

We were close to a large intersection, but there were cars in front of us, to the right, and possibly to the left as well.

From my peripheral vision, I noticed a dark shape moving up the right side of the taxi toward my window.

Thinking it was a beggar, street performer, or vendor selling something, I instinctively moved my Blackberry toward the center of the car.

There was no thought involved. I was operating on some primal intuition that a threat was approaching.

When I looked back to the right, the man had stopped in front of the window, blocking my entire view in that direction.

At eye level, I was looking straight at a dull, silver revolver being held flush against his stomach, pointing toward the front of the car.

He was holding it in his left hand, which I imagine was on purpose to leave his dominant right hand free to collect my belongings.

The gun looked cheap and old.

He was wearing a helmet, and I don't recall if he said anything, but when I saw the gun, words weren't necessary.

My number was up, I was being robbed in South America.

As quickly as I'd moved my Blackberry away from the window, I swung it back to him without hesitation.

I reached into my front right pocket and pulled out the 75,000 or so pesos ($40) still on me.

I gave that to him too, and then he reached into the car and felt my pocket to see if I was holding out on him.

It was then that I was most scared because I was acutely aware that if he perceived any resistance on my part, he could decide to shoot me.

I pulled out my passport, while at the same time saying "solo pasaporte" to in some way indicate that there would be no value of that item to him, only frustration for me should I lose it.

Either I was wrong, or at that moment he didn't care what I was giving him, so as long as it was everything.

As soon as he grabbed the passport, he was gone.

Aftermath

I sat buckled in my seat, stunned at what had just happened.

The light changed green within seconds, and traffic began to move.

The whole interaction didn't last more than 30 - 60 seconds, but it felt like an eternity.

I didn't think to look back to try and get the motorbike's license plate (an accomplice was driving it), nor did I see which direction they sped off (but I believe it was to the right of us...not in front).

The taxi driver, a middle-aged man, said and did nothing during the interaction. If ever there was a picture of calm and collected, it was this man to my left.

And while some may consider him complicit, as far as I'm concerned, when a gun is involved, it's in everyone's best interest to stay out of it.

My initial response was anger. Anger that I was holding my Blackberry out in plain view, albeit in my lap.

"Estupido" I proclaimed, (wrongly) blaming myself for inviting the theft.

I asked, rhetorically, why he would want my passport?

Maybe he could sell it to counterfeiters, but it was just as likely to end up in a trash bin when he realized there was no immediate value to it.

Meanwhile, I would have to take time away from work and incur the travel expenses to Bogota, and the administrative expenses of obtaining an emergency, and later regular, passport.

I felt bitter that a city I was trying to help would repay me with such a terrifying experience.

I felt sad that this experience only served to justify other people's preconceived notions about the safety of Medellin and Colombia.

The taxi driver said little, nor did he offer to call the police at any point.

But I wasn't going to let my only witness go without giving an official account.

Arriving at DAS

Upon reaching DAS, he parked his car and came to the entrance with me, where he relayed the robbery in Spanish to the female guard.

She took his name and license plate and asked that he wait for us to return.

Inside the DAS office, which was all but empty, the guard relayed the story to a man with a shiny silver badge hanging from his neck.

He immediately called the local police. We walked back outside to the sidewalk, and within a few minutes, a motorbike arrived with two young police officers.

One of the officers immediately began to reassure me, and then we both walked over to the taxi driver who gave his best account of what happened, including a limited description of the perpetrator.

As he was wearing a helmet, and possibly sunglasses, I knew the chances of catching him were slim to none.

But I also knew it was important to get these details for an official police report.

As the taxi driver was giving his account, a police car arrived.

When he was finished, he reached into his taxi and gave me a business card. His parting words, "not all Colombians are bad."

I climbed in the back seat of the air-conditioned cop car.

Two men got in the front and drove us to the nearby Belen police station.

The one in the passenger seat made small talk, asking me where I was from and what I thought of the city.

I imagine that's something they teach in the emergency services.

A kind of redirection of thought for those who've just experienced a traumatic event. Either that or it's simply human nature.

Despite being surrounded by police, I was on edge. Hyper-sensitive to everything going on around me.

Belen Police Station

As we entered the police station, a Volkswagen minivan was filling up with police and heading out.

I wondered if VW had won a recent contract with the city's police force to supply new vehicles.

Inside the station, I was introduced to an officer who spoke a little English.

Two months worth to be exact, but I was happy to have his assistance.

I was brought to another room where I had to wait for a woman to finish her business with a large man who appeared to be a senior level officer. Jefe, he was called by the others.

The small talk continued, and the translator asked my thoughts of the police station.

I had already taken note that it was a handsome building, with exposed concrete walls giving both a sense of strength and austerity.

I asked if it was new, and he said yes. I responded that it was nice.

When the woman had completed her report with el jefe, I switched seats and recounted the story, including the items stolen from me.

The chief was annoyed with the slowness of his computer, but after ten minutes, an official one-page report was printed off.

I was given a copy, which would be required to explain my loss at the US Embassy in Bogota, as well as the DAS office when I returned to get my visa extended.

If I had travel insurance, I would've used it to file a claim as well.

Unfortunately, a lot of insurance policies do not cover Colombia because it is on the US State Department travel warning list (along with other popular destinations such as Mexico, Israel, and Kenya).

Two new police officers were tasked with driving me home in another of the new VW minivans. More small talk ensued.

What did I think of the city? Did I have a girlfriend? Aren't the women in Medellin beautiful?

Home, Sweet Home

When we reached my apartment, I climbed out of the van.

The officer in the passenger seat did as well, taking a moment to write his name and phone number on a piece of paper, should I need anything.

Later that night, I mentioned the theft to my new Colombian roommate. He asked if I would be leaving the country.

No, I responded, I would stay until early August as planned.

Travel is my life now, and I've worked too hard to give that up out of fear alone.

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My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

Travel Like A Wizard: 5 ‘Harry Potter’ Magic Items We Wish Existed

Hogwarts at Universal Studios in Japan (photo: manseok Kim, Pixabay) — Hogwarts at Universal Studios, Japan (photo: manseok Kim)

Is July 15, 2011, a travel blackout date in your world?

It is in mine, as that's the release date of the final 'Harry Potter' film, the 'Deathly Hallows Part 2'.

My wife, a self-proclaimed 'Harry Potter nerd,' has declared that all travel - in addition to any plan not related to seeing the film its opening night - is entirely off-limits.

Admittedly, I'm not a fan (though our marriage survives regardless).

I've never participated in marathon-like cramming sessions whenever a new, phonebook-sized novel is released. I've never chimed in on any message board to resolve why so-and-so killed what's-his-name.

And if you think I'll be dressed up like a wizard while I wait with my wife in a queue on opening night for the latest film, think again.

I do, however, appreciate the cleverness of the magical items presented in the various films I've sat through, prompting me to dream of how much more pleasant travel would be if they existed.

So whether you are hardcore about Harry or not, here's my take on five magical items from the world of 'Potter' that would prove invaluable to the avid traveler.

Magic Items

1. Liquid Luck

How sweet would it be to drink a vial of Liquid Luck, a potion designed to bring unbelievable luck to whoever consumes it for a short period of time?

I'd down a bottle on my way to the airport, to ensure construction and accident-free travel while my cab zipped along traffic-free expressways.

At the airport itself? Even sweeter.

"Sorry, Mr. Mandra - we overbooked coach so we'll have to upgrade you to first class free of charge. Now let's hurry you along - we're actually departing on time today."

Of course, thanks to a nice tailwind, we arrive much earlier than planned, too.

And did I mention the flight itself is entirely free of screaming babies, armrest hogs, and chatterboxes?

2. Time Turner

The Time Turner, a slick little device allowing for short travels forward in time, might be best used to avoid those inevitable 'dud' tourist attractions we sometimes all fall prey to.

If I had the Time Turner with me in London, I would have dialed it up before visiting a specific museum, to prepare myself for the comical disappointment I would soon experience.

The disappointment?

This museum, dedicated to a prominent English literary figure, proudly presented a 'special' exhibit - an entire room, no less - dedicated to 'Beards Throughout History' (since this literary giant wore a beard at one point in his life, of course….).

Think it's impossible to fill four museum walls with nothing but photos of our hairy heroes?

Not when you include, alongside photos of actual persons, images of completely unrelated fictional television and movie characters.

Bearded images of everyone from professional wrestler Randy 'Macho Man' Savage to 'Star Wars' character Obi-Wan Kenobi to ape characters from the 'Planet of the Apes' films inexplicably hung prominently from the museum walls, alongside former heads of state and other noted historical stalwarts.

I'd be willing to risk altering the fragile Time-Space Continuum to avoid that mess again.

3. Sneakoscope

A naïve woman I traveled with as part of a group once - I'll call her 'Anne' - would have benefited from using a Sneakoscope, a spinning top that lights up, spins, and whistles if someone is doing something untrustworthy nearby.

First, after arriving in Zimbabwe, she trusted her cab driver enough to exchange her US dollars into local currency (he ripped her off, of course).

Later, 'Anne' swaps her wristwatch (working) with one offered by a street vendor (not working).

Good thing the vendor just happened to have an over-priced watch battery on hand he could sell her!

For 'Anne,' I'd recommend a heavy-duty Sneakoscope because that poor, overworked top would eventually spin itself right into the ground.

4. Hermoine's (Expanding) Handbag

Duct tape. I'm convinced I could earn a small fortune selling nothing but rolls of duct tape near airport check-in, typically the last line of defense for bloated, broken-down luggage.

One beaten-up suitcase I noticed on its way from Chicago for Amsterdam appeared so bandaged together and wrapped with silver it resembled a round football.

A better solution for those travelers - as well as the rest of us - would be a suitcase with the expandable characteristics of Hermoine's Handbag, allowing you to carry a ton more inside it than outwardly appears.

Maybe that single, magical suitcase (carry-on size, naturally) would be large enough to fit everything - shoes, clothes, and souvenirs.

Of course, even though you could fit everything inside a single bag, the challenge would then be lugging all that weight around with you.

Sounds like we'll get to hear a lot of entertaining airport bickering among couples to me.

5. Invisibility Cloak

The Invisibility Cloak is a no-brainer, handy for any situation where you might want to slip away without a trace.

I would have loved possessing that Cloak one particular time in Scotland, where a plan to share a drink with my wife in a small-town pub got a little uncomfortable thanks to a gregarious (at first) but over-served local man.

He seemed friendly at first ("Pete from Seattle - how are ya, man?"), soon shifted to mean ("My wife's got a face like a wheelbarrow!"), then depressing ("I'm not bein' served!"), before ending on downright weird/creepy/nonsensical ("Jessica Rabbit! Jessica Rabbit!").

Note to the drunk guy: whenever a pub - a pub in Scotland, no less - refuses to serve you liquor, you probably should have stopped consuming a while ago.

Regardless, the Invisibility Cloak would've helped us escape that scene earlier, while also being useful for anyone needing to slip away from awkward situations, boring tour groups and the like.

La Cueva del Esplendor: Horseback Riding in Jardin

Horseback riding in the mountains above Jardin, Colombia.

La Cueva del Esplendor ("The Cave of Splendor") is a unique cave with a river running through it in the mountains above Jardin, a small pueblo in Antioquia, Colombia.

Several friends of mine had recommended Jardin in the past, so I recently took it upon myself to escape the big city for a weekend in the country.

I booked my horseback riding trip to La Cueva through a local guide, Jaime.

I'd been horseback riding in Colombia once before, in La Valle de Cocora, and while it turned out to be a more adventurous ride than I anticipated, it was also a lot of fun.

I was excited to mount up again, though I still approach riding with a lot of caution.

It always reminds me of the Christopher Reeve accident.

For beginner riders, you never know what kind of horse you'll be given, though the sign of a good guide will be the proper matching of a horse's temperament with a rider's experience.

My horse's name was Leonardo, and he turned out to be a real sweetheart.

He followed directions well, and never gave any signs of wanting to gallop down the trail at full speed.

Additional companions for the trip included two Swiss girls who had been living and working in Colombia for several months.

Together, the three of us, plus our guide and a random assortment of locals headed out of Jardin in the back of a share jeep.

You can choose to start your horseback riding within the town, but it's not so scenic and will add several hours to the whole adventure, thus increasing the chances that you'll get rained on in the afternoon.

Once we reached our guide's finca in the mountains above Jardin, we were paired with our horses and set off on the trails leading to La Cueva del Esplendor.

The weather was cool, the sky overcast.

Our ride lasted little more than an hour, which was enough time to appreciate the raw beauty of the landscape, without risking sore bums for the next few days.

With the horses tied up at another finca, we walked about twenty minutes downhill to the cave.

Water rushed furiously through the hole in the ceiling, kicking up a cloud of mist within the cave. We had the option to go for a swim, but the water was far too cold.

The cave itself was interesting, however, I knew all along that it was just an excuse to go horseback riding for a day.

We were given the option of abseiling down into the cave, however, it appealed to none of us, so we hiked back uphill along a river. Literally.

I've learned there's always an unexpected twist to tours in Colombia.

In this case, it involved leaping over rushing water onto slippery rocks in our loaned rubber boots.

Jaime helped us along, and it turned out to be fun.

It even appeared that the river held some prospects for canyoning, though I only saw a small section.

Back at the second finca, we all took a moment to relax and eat some snacks before mounting our horses for the one hour ride back to Jaime's place.

Once we arrived, and the horses had been sent on their way (up the road to wherever it is they called home), we were treated to fresh maracuya while awaiting the share jeep back to town.

After two horseback riding trips in Colombia, I'm hungry for more.

It's by far the best way to experience the countryside, while at the same time, getting a taste for the rural way of life.

____________

My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

Krabi, Thailand: A Nature Lover's Paradise

Wat Tham Seua - Tiger Temple (Tiger Temple) in Krabi Thailand — Wat Tham Seua - Tiger Temple (Tiger Temple)

There are few places in this world that are as charming as the province of Krabi Thailand.

The province, located in the South of the country is blessed by an array of world-class natural attractions that range from hot waterfalls to limestone cliffs that rise high above pristine island beaches.

A trip to the province of Krabi is both rewarding, entertaining, and outright beautiful!

Here are a few of what I think are the most incredible natural sites to visit in Krabi.

Wat Tham Seua - Tiger Temple

What was once a cave hideout for tigers, is now a series of mystifying limestone caves and jungle cliffs that are filled with temples and shrines.

Though tigers have long left the area, there's always that imagination at the back of your mind that a tiger might just leap out of the bushes at any moment and attack you.

A highlight of visiting the temple is climbing the 1,237 strenuous staircase steps to the top of the cliff for a view over the entire region.

Sa Marakot (Emerald and Blue Pools)

They label it as an "Unseen Thailand" attraction, so when I visited, in the back of my head I was expecting no one else to be there.

Though a few others did show up, it was definitely not overrun by people to take away from the serenity and overall beauty of the place.

The Blue Pool was absolutely stunning, an opening in the thick tangled mangroves to unveil a hidden pure turquoise pool.

I wanted to swim in the crystal water, but unfortunately, there was a warning that the minerals could be harmful.

Railay Bay

Located in a bay that is secluded from the mainland by giant limestone cliffs, Railay Bay remains a picture perfect beach.

The jagged cliff walls and surrounding environment makes Railay a world class destination to rock climb or just an ideal place to relax, enjoy the beauty, and absorb the sunshine.

Island Hopping in Krabi

For many, it's the private islands and the pillars of limestone that emerge from the turquoise water that make Krabi a favorite destination in Thailand.

Hiring a longtail boat for the day, cruising from island to island, stopping on stretches of white sand and taking dips in the warm ocean is an experience fit for royalty.

Khlong Tom - Hot Spring Waterfall

Take an already glorious hot spring of natural water, flow it down a shelf of rocks, and let the hot water pool up into compartments, and you have a hot spring waterfall jacuzzi wonder.

The hot water perfectly arranged into naturally created jacuzzi tubs is truly soothing on the body and I found it next to impossible to leave.

Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam - Nature Walk

Located in a swamp on the edge of the ocean, the brackish water at Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam turns a series of different colors and levels of clearness depending on the ocean tide.

Catch the tide at the correct time and the entire area turns into an outdoor aquarium of crystal clear water.

The elevated wooden plank platform provides an incredible nature walk and opportunity to view this natural phenomenon from above.

These are just an introduction to the incredible natural sites around Krabi that make it one of the most captivating places to visit in Southeast Asia.

As the province of Krabi remains one of the more premiere jump off points for island hopping in Southern Thailand, sticking to the mainland also provides natural attractions that are equal to paradise.

If you are a nature lover, taking the time to visit Krabi will surely be an inspiration!

Top 5 Budget-Friendly Things To Do In Hong Kong

Taking a trip to Hong Kong can come as a serious shock from a traveler that originates from Southeast Asia.

A brief 3 day visit to one of the most famous cities in the world can easily cost as much as a month of frugal living expenses in Thailand.

That to say, when I visited Hong Kong, I didn't exactly have the budget to post up in a sky rise hotel (or even a nice hostel), party at a renowned night club, or go on a legendary Hong Kong shopping spree. Nevertheless, the fascinating dense metropolis that makes Bangkok feel like the country-side, has plenty of other attractions that won't bankrupt your trip. Without further adieu, here are 5 picks for budget-friendly things to do in Hong Kong.

1. Hike to the Top of Victoria Peak

Taking a cable car to the top of Hong Kong Peak for spectacular views over the entire bay is one of the city's biggest draws. Riding the cable car comes at the cost of 33 HKD round trip.

The good thing is, it's possible to hike it - for FREE. Though it is steep at times, the trail is easy to follow and is well worth the exercise and awesome views of the city while gaining elevation. The hike to the Peak should take around 45 minutes or so. There are also plenty more hiking opportunities in Hong Kong, just moments away from the concrete jungle itself.

2. Visit the Chungking Mansions

In terms of world culture, there are few places in the entire world that are as interesting as the Chungking Mansions. When the Hong Kong bureau of tourism nicknamed their city as "Asia's World City," I wouldn't be surprised if they were walking around these notorious all-purpose structures.

Imagine the entire world coming together in a single building - all with business on their minds. You can almost feel transactions and deals floating from culture to culture through the musty air.

The bottom floor is crammed with everything from fragrant Bangladeshi curry restaurants to outdated mobile phone traders. The higher levels are congested with low budget guest houses, condos, and an assortment of undetermined halls and passageways.

Right next to the Chungking Mansions is another complex known for international business and cheap accommodation, the Mirador Mansions.

3. Watch a Hong Kong Horse Race

There's an electrifying atmosphere on a horse race night at the Happy Valley Race Course in central Hong Kong. The bright lights from the race course blind out the sky scrapers lingering in the background creating a spotlight effect on the stadium.

For just 10 HKD entrance and another 10 HKD for a chance to bid on a winning horse, it's possible to have an entertaining evening in Hong Kong. You don't even need to bet on a horse, but you just might win some extra survival money for Hong Kong!

4. Eat Dim Sum

Eating Hong Kong's most world renowned delicacy doesn't usually come free of charge (unless you organize some kind of hook-up), but it would definitely be a shame to visit the city without at least a couple brunches worth of dim sum!

The dainty bamboo steamers filled with all sorts of dumplings, little petit plates of scrumptious looking things, and edible artful creations are what make dim sum such a wonderful culinary experience. Last time I was in Hong Kong, I enjoyed eating at Lin Heung dim sum for fantastic dim sum and a somewhat traditional dining environment.

5. Watch the Hong Kong Skyline Lights Show

It's a bit cliche and obvious, but nevertheless there's never been a single person who has visited Hong Kong as a tourist and didn't stop for a moment to view the skyline. The officials didn't give out the "world's best skyline," award to a few low key shacks. Looking over the bay at Hong Kong's skyline at day or night is definitely a sight that will make anyone skip a few breaths in awe.

The magical Hong Kong light show begins as 8 pm daily.

So although it's easy to rack up a massive bill in Hong Kong, there are still plenty of things to do that won't bankrupt your trip!

Medellin Living 2011: The First 3 Months in Review

Copacabana, a small pueblo north of Medellin.

It's been three and a half months since I returned to Medellin, so being a little past the halfway mark, I wanted to get everyone up to speed on what I've been up to.

For the new readers, I've been spending six months per year in Medellin, Colombia since 2009.

Within my first week in the city, I'd already started a new blog, Medellin Living, to share my adventures as an expat.

This year I've had the chance to meet quite a few other travel bloggers either passing through town or living here for a few months.

They include Marcello (Wandering Trader), Brendan (Brendan's Adventures), Gareth (Tourist 2 Townie), Ryan (Ryan Goes Abroad), Jeff (Maverick Traveler), and Jack and Jill Travel.

Here, in no particular order, are my favorite posts and adventures from the last three months in Colombia:

Poblado Apartment -- description and photos of the apartment I've been living in since September 2010.

Finca in Copacabana (+ Part 2) -- a Colombian friend invites me to his family's weekend home outside the city.

Medellin Women -- a guest post by Marcello of WanderingTrader.com.

Dulce Jesus Mio -- translated as "my sweet Jesus" this is one of my favorite clubs in Medellin!

El Cielo Restaurant - my first experience at a restaurant known for molecular gastronomy. Lots of photos of the food in this post.

Mondongo -- the traditional tripe soup of Antioquia.

Me Late Chocolate Cafe -- a new Western-style chocolate cafe. Yum!

Salsa in Colombia -- video of Benny the Irish Polyglot's experience learning salsa dancing in Medellin and Cali.

Love Motels - when Colombians want to get intimate, they head for the city's love motels.

Medellin Drinking Guide - the most popular liquors, beers, and drinks in Medellin.

For everyone who asked for a video of me salsa dancing, check out the clip below where I'm dancing with Jessica, who joined Medellin Living as a contributor this year.

The next three months are going to be fun too.

I'm exploring the pueblos of Jardin and Santa Fe de Antioquia, as well as a popular section of the Caribbean coast, including Santa Marta, Taganga, and Parque Nacional Tayrona.

And back in Medellin, July and August promise to be busy with the annual Colombia Salsa Congress, Colombiamoda (fashion week), La Feria de las Flores (Flower Festival) and FIFA Under-20 World Cup soccer tournament.

____________

My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

From Baksheesh to Sheesha - A Few Unexpected Memories of Egypt

I had my ticket to Egypt, I was thrilled.

My mind started racing through images like mentally flipping through the pages of an Egypt Google image search. The Great Pyramids of Giza, the Valley of the Kings, the Temple of Karnak, Ramses the Great, Tutankhamen, Akhenaten, Nefertiti, - I couldn't believe I finally had the chance to see these ancient places of the Pharaohs, things I had studied and heard about for so long in my life.

I traveled to Egypt.

The sites were breathtaking masterpieces of architectures and human genius. I was dumbfounded by the ancient stone carvings and Pharaonic reliefs that were etched deep into the stones. It was truly remarkable to see such ancient Egyptian sites.

But these ancient Egyptian creations were what I came to Egypt in search of, they were what I was expecting and what I had dreamed about prior to visiting.

What truly made a dent in my mind was a few things about Egypt that I wasn't expecting...

Baksheesh

Baksheesh is about money. There are 3 forms of baksheesh in Egypt: begging, tipping, and giving for special permission of favors. From using a public toilet to being granted permission to see a secret set of hieroglyphics that a guard personally shows you (without you asking), there's a few Egyptian Pounds that will inevitably leave your wallet as baksheesh money.

It's so much a part of the tourism industry, that there's not a soul who has visited Egypt without encountering some form of baksheesh. Know how to calmly handle it, and it can be an interesting part of Egyptian culture.

Hospitality

From the moment I set foot in Cairo, I noticed the hospitality and kindness of the local Egyptians. Though things get a bit out of control behind wheels (driving ), catch an Egyptian in a calm setting and he or she will customarily be welcoming and gracious.

From making friends through Couchsurfing in Cairo to chatting with a random street food vendor, throughout my time in Egypt I was shown genuine hospitality from Egyptians time and time again.

Sheesha

The smoking of flavored tobacco through water pipes is an in-demand and ancient past time that extends from Turkey to Lebanon to Egypt. Cafe's around the country host people (usually men) who choose to take a break, sip a tea, and puff the relaxing dragon.

It's also very acceptable to just sit at the cafe and down cups of wonderful tea (without smoking sheehsa).

Jellabiya

Forget about sweats, gym shorts, tank tops, or even pajamas. No Western style garment even compares to the ultimate comfort of an Egyptian Jellabiya. It can basically be described as a gigantic baggy round tube of cloth with sleeves and a head opening at the top.

It took me almost 2 weeks in Egypt until I had the guts to rock a Jellabiya full-time, but once I made switch, I immediately reaped the benefits of this extreme lounge-wear. One of my favorite aspects of a Jellabiya is that there's no need to worry about eating a huge buffet meal - because 1 size fits all!

Ful (pronounced "fool") - It's Beans!

I'm a lover of food. Eating for me is deeper than a necessity, it's a passion, something I get excited about doing every meal everyday! Egypt was no exception, and though I was grateful to sample loads of outstanding Egyptian cuisine, it was the ful that I just couldn't get enough of!

Ful can be described as a similar bean creation as forms of Mexican re-fried beans, except usually a little less mashed. The beans are often eaten as an Egyptian sandwich, loaded into Arabic bread and garnished with pickled vegetables, a squirt of olive oil, and a dabble of special sauce.

Cheap, filling, and nutritious, I got into an enjoyable habit of downing as much ful as I possibly could!

Final Thought

So though I immensely enjoyed the ancient Egyptian historical sites and attractions, it was a few of the little (and unexpected) things that made my trip to Egypt so memorable.

The things I couldn't mentally picture from a Google search or from that Egyptology class I took in University, are what made my time in Egypt truly spectacular.

Photo Favorite: Nepali Breakfast

On my first morning in Kathmandu, I was greeted with a typical Nepali breakfast of vegetable and potato soup, roti (fried, unleavened bread), fruit salad, and the most delicious milk tea I'd ever (and perhaps will ever) taste.

The Nepali breakfast is clearly very different from what I was used to in the US, but it was delicious and filling.

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Boarding the Eden Yacht

Bachas Beach on Santa Cruz Island

The Breakdown

A Solution

When to Go

Water Temperatures

Peak Tourism

Migratory Patterns

Where to Buy a Galapagos Island Tour

Quito

Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island

Guayaquil

Length of Cruises

Types of Ships

Economy / Tourist Class - Least Expensive

1st Class - Most Popular

Deluxe / Luxury Class

Cruise Ships

Itineraries

My Experience

Related Expenses

Required

Optional

How to Pay

Total Cost of My 8-Day Galapagos Cruise

Itemized List of ALL My Expenses

Stroll Through The Morning Market

Mohinga for Breakfast

Betel Nut Mouth Chew

Chinese Tea

Thiri Mingalar Market

Shwedagon Pagoda

Drinking Cold Water

Giant Curry Feast of Dinner

Football or Movie - and Tea

Riding the Quito Teleferico

Climbing Pichincha Volcano

What You Need to Know

How To Mountain Bike One of the World's Tallest Active Volcanoes

Tips for Mountain Biking Cotopaxi Volcano

Lunch at Laguna Limpiopungo

Final Thoughts

What You Need to Know

Arriving in Rome

The Colosseum

The Trevi Fountain

12 PM

1 PM

2 PM

6 PM

7 PM

9 PM

The Next Morning

How to Get There

How to Get There

Roasting Coffee in Vietnam

Brewing Coffee in Vietnam

What kind of coffee should I drink in Vietnam?

How to fully enjoy drinking a cup of Vietnamese coffee

My Experience

Getting There

Boat Ride

Game Drives

Facts About the Selous Game Reserve

Traditional Ethiopian Foods

Injera

Serving Ethiopian Food

Berbere

A few of my favorite Ethiopian dishes

Traditional Ethiopian Drinks

Honey Wine - Tej

Ethiopian Coffee

Topics Covered

What I Liked

Areas for Improvement

Bottom Line

Cafe Culture with Wireless Signals and Shisha Clouds

Low Crime and Gadget Friendly

Censorship is a Joke

Middle Eastern Digital Delight