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Top 5 Zanzibar Beaches (and Where to Stay)

The archipelago of Zanzibar consists of two main islands: Unguja and Pemba. Unguja (aka Zanzibar Island) is the most populated and famous. This list of top Zanzibar beaches is from Zanzibar Island. Zanzibar is located in the Indian Ocean, just 15 miles (25 km) off the coast of mainland Tanzania.

A beautiful Zanzibar beach
Zanzibar beach (photo: Nici Keil from Pixabay)

It's easy to take a short plane ride or a ferry from the capital Dar Es Salaam to Zanzibar.

Best Accommodation Deals in Zanzibar

Most popular search engines (Booking.com, Agoda, etc.) have a range of accommodation options in Zanzibar. However, we recommend you start your search with Hotels Combined, which searches all the popular booking sites to find the best price. We've included some fantastic deals near each beach below.

Table of Contents

  • Zanzibar Beaches
    • 1. Ras Nungwi Beach
    • 2. Kendwa Beach
    • 3. Paje Beach
    • 4. Bwejuu Beach
    • 5. Kiwengwa Beach

Zanzibar Beaches

1. Ras Nungwi Beach

The Northern tip of Zanzibar is special. Unlike the East and West coastlines, the top island location is blessed by not having to deal with high and low tides. This makes Nungwi the perfect Zanzibar beach if you are looking to swim around the clock without having to walk far out to sea to chase the ocean.

Nungwi is known for its party atmosphere, yet it's not to be compared with party beach destinations elsewhere in the world. There are many bars and clubs, but the atmosphere remains Zanzibari style, chilled out, and low-key.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Nungwi

  • Lighthouse Guesthouse-A double room can be had for about $25. Breakfast is included. 
  • Mabwe Roots Bungalows-Get a budget double bungalow with a balcony and sea view for about $45. Breakfast is included. 

Related: Night Market in Zanzibar

2. Kendwa Beach

Kendwa Beach on Zanzibar Island
Kendwa Beach (photo: Yoni Lerner)

Adjacent to Nungwi, within walking distance, is Kendwa-probably my favorite beach on Zanzibar. It's a little more laid-back and a little less happening than Nungwi, which makes it a premier place to laze around.

The days are passed by relaxing on the beach, taking dips in the perfectly turquoise water, and catching shade under a banda (small shade hut). When the sun begins to set, there's always a friendly game of beach volleyball or football amongst whoever happens to be there at the time.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Kendwa

  • Royal Palm Kendwa-A "king room" with two king beds costs about $60 a night. If you can get some friends together, this could be a reasonably cheap option.
  • Mocco Beach Villa-Okay, so rooms here aren't super cheap but among the most affordable on this beach. Depending on the time of year, rooms can be had for $75 - $90, and breakfast is included.

Related: How To Enjoy Stone Town

3. Paje Beach

Paje, Zanzibar
Paje Beach (photo: Konstantin Zamkov)

One of the more popular Southeastern beach towns on Zanzibar is Paje. It's a great place to visit if you enjoy swimming in the ocean and interacting with other travelers. There's a good selection of bungalows, small restaurants, and beach bars.

Paje is one of the better areas on the island to go to if you want to learn to SCUBA dive or practice other water sports like windsurfing or kite surfing.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Paje

  • Summer Dream Lodge-This well-liked place has dorms starting at about $17 per bunk per night and double rooms for about $40 ($25 for a single). Breakfast is included.
  • Demani Lodge Zanzibar-Another well-liked spot, complete with a swimming pool, has bunks in dorms starting at about $20 per night. Doubles with shared baths are $44, and doubles with private bathrooms are $55. Breakfast is included.

Related: Nungwi Village in Zanzibar

4. Bwejuu Beach

Bwejuu
Bwejuu, Zanzibar

Just North of Paje is the seaweed fishing village of Bwejuu. Although it's not the most pleasant beach on the island for swimming, it has a truly unique natural beauty. If you are looking for a quiet beach town without even having to consider interacting with others, Bwejuu is a choice beach.

What I love most about Bewjuu are the swaying palm trees that look so lean they could snap off but remain limber, dancing to the Zanzibari wind.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Bwejuu

  • Helwa Zanzibar Beach Bungalows-Rooms at this small guesthouse range from $45 to $65, depending on whether you stay single or double. Breakfast is included.
  • Villa Bwejuu-This relatively new villa offers a double room with a private bath for about $60 per night.

5. Kiwengwa Beach

The Northeastern coast also has some of the best Zanzibar beaches. A few of the island's fanciest hotels have claimed spots near Kiwengwa, where simple stretches of sand seem to go on forever. Kiwengwa is a fantastic beach if you want to splurge a little and enjoy the exclusive peace of Zanzibar.

Where to Stay in Zanzibar: Kiwenga

  • Sipano Beach Lodge-This beachfront property offers a single room for $25 or a double for $30 per night. Breakfast is included, and a tiny mini-market is on site.
  • Family Beach Bungalows-Room prices range between $30 and $40 for a standard double room, based on single or double occupancy. Breakfast is included, and a car rental is available for exploring the area.

The entire island of Zanzibar is filled with natural beauty everywhere you look. No matter which beach you choose, you can be assured you'll be surrounded by that laid-back island attitude that is the spirit of Zanzibar.

***

Are you planning a trip to Tanzania? When you book a small-group tour with G Adventures, include Zanzibar in your itinerary. 

Serengeti Safari & Zanzibar is a 12-day trip from Arusha to Stone Town. Go on safaris in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater before relaxing on the white-sand beaches of Zanzibar.

Kilimanjaro - Marangu Route & Zanzibar Adventure is an 11-day tour that includes climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest peak on the African continent, followed by a relaxing stay on the beaches of Zanzibar.

East Africa Overland: Serengeti & Safari Drives is a 19-day trip from Kampala, Uganda, to Stone Town, Zanzibar. Highlights include gorilla trekking, the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, and Zanzibar beaches.

Lake Garda: Italy's Lesser Known Lake Region

View from Jetty, Malcesine, Lake Garda
View from Jetty, Malcesine, Lake Garda. (Photo: spencer77)

When asked to name a famous lake in Italy, for most, the name Lake Como springs to mind. Made famous by the Star Wars film "Attack of the Clones" as a romantic destination on another world - which the main characters run away to for a clandestine marriage - it's certainly easy to see why Lake Como is regarded by many to be Italy's most beautiful lake.

When it comes to beautiful lakeside scenery, stunning mountain backdrops and picturesque towns and villages however; the lesser known Lake Garda certainly makes a strong contender for the "most beautiful lake" title.

When I last ventured to Italy, I spent a week exploring the area around the lake, making the charming town of Malcesine my base of operations.

Here are my top 5 recommended places to visit whilst you're in the area:

Table of Contents

  • Venice
  • Monte Baldo
  • Verona
  • Ferry to Limone & Riva
  • Riva del Garda

Venice

What stay in the Lake Garda area could be complete without a trip to Venice, the city of lovers and home to some of the most beautiful architecture I've seen; I certainly fell head over heels for this amazing place and found that 1 day just wasn't enough to make the most of what it has to offer.

A coach trip from Malcesine took around 2 and a half hours to drive to the nearest point on land, after this a short boat ride across the lagoon gets you to Venice proper so you can explore to your hearts content.

Don't miss: Bridge of Sighs, St Mark's Square, Grand Canal, Rialto Bridge, Gondola Ride's & Trips around the lagoon.

Alley in Malcesine
Alley in Malcesine. (Photo: mawel)

Monte Baldo

Whilst staying in Malcesine, it was hard to miss the spectacular Monte Baldo Mountain which borders the lake on its eastern side. An excellent skiing destination in winter and the perfect place to get unmissable photo opportunities of Malcesine and Lake Garda from above.

I took a cable car up to the summit from Malcesine and wasn't disappointed with the views which were absolutely stunning. As the cars ascend the mountain they slowly rotate through 360° guaranteeing everyone gets to see the views.

Verona

What could be better than visiting the city of Verona, fictional home of Shakespeare's star crossed lovers, Romeo and Juliet? For me, one of the best highlights of the trip to Verona was seeing the well preserved Roman amphitheatre and arena which was excavated in the 1800's and restored. If you like your history then you'll love Verona as the city has a wealth of Roman architecture.

You can also visit Juliet's house (Casa di Giulietta) which can be found on Via Cappello (the balcony was added in 1936 to attract tourists). A nice old house and a good photo opportunity but beyond that I didn't find this lived up to all the hype.

Don't miss: Teatro Romano (Roman amphitheatre), Castlevecchio, Lamberti Tower, Verona Cathedral & Porta Borsari.

Ferry to Limone & Riva

I'd highly recommend taking the Ferry to Limone and Riva del Garda; I bought a ticket at the dock in Malcesine and got some beautiful views of the lakeside scenery and mountain backdrop as the ferry travelled to Riva del Garda, stopping at Limone (so called because of the lemon tree orchards dotted on the steep hills which are used to make the lovely Limoncello drink Italy is famous for).

You'll also get great view of the road tunnels hewn from the rock in the early part of the 20th century; the windows cut through to the outside at intervals make for a weird and wonderful sight as the road meanders along the west side of the lake (the road was also used for the car chase scene at the start of the James Bond film, Quantum of Solace).

Riva del Garda

After taking the ferry I had chance to explore the town of Riva del Garda which is the 2nd biggest town on Lake Garda. If you're staying in a quieter town such as Malcesine, it makes a nice change to visit the bustling and tourist focussed Riva, but you might want to wait until later on when the many tourists have departed on their coaches.

Don't miss: Torre Apponale, Rocca, Riva del Garda Beach, mountain biking & a variety of boat trips.

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About the Author: Article sponsored and supplied by Chris Rowlands from the UK price comparison website moneysupermarket.com

Capsule Hotels in Tokyo

My capsule at the Ace Inn Shinjuku
My capsule at the Ace Inn Shinjuku.

The capsule hotels in Tokyo are yet another example of the Japanese attitude toward efficient use of space.

Capsule hotels offer guests a very small space to sleep at night, along with the use of common bathrooms. The big hotels integrate onsens as well.

They are budget-friendly by Tokyo standards, and if you're wondering why a resident might subject himself to such a tight space, consider that it's the perfect solution for workers who might get drunk at a happy hour and not be in a position to return home for the night.

After my less-than-ideal experience at a Japanese onsen in Kyoto, I decided not to go to a big capsule hotel.

The reviews I read online made them seem less than desirable, though I suspect part of that had to do with the culture shock foreigners faced when experiencing their first onsen.

A room devoted to capsules
A room devoted to sleeping capsules.

Instead, I chose the Ace Inn Shinjuku, which had a whole floor devoted to glorified bunk beds encased in wood paneling, with privacy curtains and external desks.

It was actually rather fun to spend the night there, mostly because I had wi-fi access and could camp out in my little space and not be bothered by whoever else was in the room.

It reminded me of the sleepovers I'd had as a kid, where we'd build forts out of couch cushions, blankets, and whatever else we could get our hands on.

The cost was $50 per night. For $10 less per night, I'd stayed at a Lonely Planet recommended boutique hotel in the capital of Laos.

But this is Tokyo, where cheap hostel dorm beds start at $40 per night, so I chalked the difference up to a little privacy for my final night in Japan.

Taganga: Colombia's Coastal Backpacker Ghetto

It was obvious when I awoke my first morning in Taganga, a small fishing village on Colombia's Caribbean coast, that the beach would not be joining the illustrious list of other tropical paradises I've been lucky enough to visit.

The heat and humidity had me sweating from the moment I stepped off the plane, and that was after the sun had already gone down.

Welcome to Taganga
"Welcome to Taganga: land of peace and free of corruption, discrimination, drugs, and violence."

I'd spent the first night in a 6-person hostel dorm room, and by the following morning, I was ready to find myself a private room within reach of a sea breeze.

The main strip of Taganga looked downright depressing. Hungover. In the same way Koh San Road in Bangkok looks hungover every morning as the streets are cleaned of the garbage produced from the partying the night before.

I sat down in one of the few restaurants that were open for breakfast and took a look around.  

A couple of travelers were hanging out by the beach, drinking fresh tropical fruit juices. I guessed they were up early to go diving.

Backpackers in Taganga
Backpackers nurse hangovers with fresh fruit juice from street vendors in the early morning.

There were lots of dive shops, as Taganga has a well-deserved reputation for being an inexpensive place to get your PADI certification.

My friend Marcello from Wandering Trader got his certification there a month or so earlier. The cost for open water certification is about $250 - $300.

The beach itself was small.  But the surrounding mountains were not covered in the lush jungle as I imagined.

Beach at Taganga
Taganga's beach looks much more appealing when the sun is shining.

It appeared more like scrubby bushes. It felt dry and desert-like. The beach was dirty yet served its purpose of allowing visitors to sunbathe.

I wondered if this was what it was like in February 2009 when I'd met a group of Irish backpackers in Barranquilla who'd spent an entire month in Taganga. Because I didn't see the appeal.

Maybe the beaches of Thailand had spoiled me, or my expectations grew out of control over the two years it took me to finally visit.

Whatever the case, I was disappointed with what I found, though there were a few silver linings.

Dive boat in Taganga
A dive boat in Taganga prepares to take a group of scuba divers into the sea.

Reasons to Visit Taganga

Nightlife

What the village lacks in terms of daytime atmosphere, it makes up for at night with beach bars and a few discotecas.

It turns out the nightlife is better in Taganga than in Santa Marta, which doesn't say much about the latter.

I went out dancing at discoteca Sensation one night, and it was bringing in a mixed crowd of Colombians and foreigners.

Cheap diving

Go for a few days to get certified, and then get the heck out.

That said, there are plenty of other inexpensive places in the world to get certified, and they offer much prettier beaches (and I bet much clearer views underwater too).

Gili Trawangan and Koh Phi Phi come to mind if you want to go diving in Southeast Asia.

Base camp for exploring the region

Taganga may not be an idyllic beach, but for many, it will hold more appeal than staying in the nearby city of Santa Marta.

You can book the same activities from either location, including transport to Parque Tayrona, treks to Ciudad Perdida (The Lost City), and package trips to La Guajira.

Fresh seafood

Available at all the restaurants. I highly recommend the pargo (red snapper) if available.

____________

Medellin Travel Guide

My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is available for Kindle and PDF.

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How to Negotiate A Camel Ride to the Great Pyramids

Update: This story was originally written and published in 2011 based on my experience in 2008. Since then, I have become more aware of the potential for tourism-related animal abuse.

In 2023, PETA released video footage documenting mistreatment at the Birqash Camel Market. Given how hard it is for travelers to verify camels they ride are treated well, the only safe bet is not to ride a camel.

Camel tour office
The austere office of the camel tour business

The Great Pyramids of Giza are best experienced on a camel. Arguing that it's better to approach the last of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World in a minivan or massive air-conditioned bus would be futile. It may top the list of tourism cliches; however, riding a camel in Giza was one of my favorite experiences from a lifetime of travel and some of my favorite photos.

But there's one catch before you can enjoy this epic, time-honored tradition. You must bargain for your camel. And let me tell you; it won't be easy. My 11 days in Egypt quickly taught me that Egyptians are hardcore bargainers. It reminded me of my time in India, where I faced tough negotiators at every turn. The good news is that you can turn this potentially stressful situation into a game and a fun one, too.

Egyptian camel rides to the Great Pyramids are a popular draw for tourists
Approaching my trusty Egyptian camel outside the office

Table of Contents

  • Negotiating Your Camel Ride
    • 1. Do Your Homework
    • 2. Treat It Like A Game
    • 3. Be Dramatic
    • 4. Offer 50-75 Percent Less Than the Initial Rate
    • 5. Don't Be Afraid To Walk Out The Door

Negotiating Your Camel Ride

Note: I arranged a one-day tour of the Great Pyramids and Giza through the same Cairo-based tour company I booked my Nile River cruise. These companies are a dime a dozen downtown.

These tips assume that you are either prepared to hire your camel independently (i.e., go straight to Giza on your own) or that the tour you arrange leaves the camel negotiating up to you.

1. Do Your Homework

There are many hotels in Egypt, and even the most budget-oriented ones have staff willing to warn you about the potential tricks and scams guides and tour companies play on tourists.

Take advantage of the local advice to anticipate what's coming, and you should be able to maintain control of the experience and your money.

Be wary of booking your tours through the hotel itself. Doing so will increase the cost compared to doing it on your own, as they will get a commission for the sale.

2. Treat It Like A Game

The game begins when you arrive in Giza and walk into one of the little offices where the camel negotiations take place. You'll be warmly welcomed with smiles, laughter, tea, and possibly a lousy joke like me.

Don't get distracted by the transparent attempts to woo you. Be open to banter and rapport building, as it will benefit you just as much as the other guy.

You'll be offered several options. The agent will try to upsell you on the more expensive option, and it's your job to get that experience for as little as possible. Don't worry about the agent's financial well-being; he won't rent you a camel at a loss.

Whatever rate you ultimately agree on, he'll surely be making some profit from the transaction, though it might not be as much as the other suckers walking through his door who haven't read these tips!

3. Be Dramatic

As you consider the options presented, ask many questions-hem and haw. Consult your guidebook, delay, and pretend you have all the time in the world because, at that moment, you do.

Meanwhile, the agent is racing to book as many daily tours as possible. Time is money to him. Use this to your advantage. Watch for signs that he's becoming impatient because they'll mean you're in the driver's seat.

4. Offer 50-75 Percent Less Than the Initial Rate

One of the biggest mistakes tourists make when bargaining abroad is estimating the value of a product or service in terms of their home country's currency rather than the local currency.

If you think in US dollars while the seller thinks in Egyptian pounds, that leaves a wide margin for him and inadvertently inflates expectations and prices for future tourists.

For example, I was quoted $80 for the two-hour, "long" version of the camel ride around the Pyramids. After applying the techniques in this article, we ultimately settled on $40. I'm positive a more assertive negotiator than myself could've gotten it for even less.

On the plus side, I enjoyed an extra 30 minutes on the tour, much to the manager's dismay, who appeared to scold my camel guide upon our return.

5. Don't Be Afraid To Walk Out The Door

Plenty of camels hang around in the stables on the outskirts of the Pyramids. And plenty of agents are willing to rent those camels to tourists. If you're unsatisfied with the rates offered in the first office, don't hesitate to walk out the door and try another one.

If you booked the whole day through a larger tour company, that company has an agreement with the first office they bring you to and probably gets a commission for any sales they bring in. By showing that you're willing to go elsewhere, you're potentially removing a sale from both parties.

Be respectful but firm. If the guy doesn't try to stop you or offer you his best deal as you head for the exit, then at least you will have a better sense of the going rate when you go to the next office.

Egypt is hot, dusty, and crowded. It's easy to get overwhelmed by it all, and throwing in the back-and-forth negotiating of camels can turn an otherwise fun experience into a stressful occasion. Remember to treat it like a game and not take it too seriously.

Once you're riding through the desert, on your way to walk like an Egyptian in front of the Great Pyramids, you'll soon realize nothing else matters in those moments.

______________

This story is brought to you in partnership with Travel Republic Limited.

5 Safety Tips for Taking Taxis in Latin America

A Colombian taxi awaits its next customer in Cartagena.
A Colombian taxi awaits its next customer in Cartagena.

For over two years, I've chosen to highlight the positive, fun side of living in Colombia on my other blog, Medellin Living.

However, after being robbed a few weeks ago, in broad daylight on a busy street, I'm taking my personal security more seriously than ever before.

Being robbed at gunpoint will do that to any man or woman, and to not share what I've learned from the experience would be a waste of the anxiety and fright that resulted.

There are countless strategies the bad guys use in Latin America to separate targets from their wealth. 

These are a collection of tips from Colombian taxi drivers I've been given since sharing my story with them.

While I still don't think it's practical to adhere to every tip 100% of the time, I will no longer be so lackadaisical when taking taxis in foreign countries.

Table of Contents

  • 1.  Do not hail taxis from the street, call in advance.
  • 2.  Do not sit in the front passenger seat, sit in the back.
  • 3. Do not ride with the windows rolled down, keep them up or slightly cracked.
  • 4. Do not show evidence of valuables, keep your expensive phone in your pocket or purse.
  • 5.  If threatened, do not resist.

1.  Do not hail taxis from the street, call in advance.

Some taxi drivers may be working in partnership with the thieves who rob you.

Upon spotting something of value on your person, be it an expensive phone, jewelry, or camera, they call the thief to report your route.

Because the thieves know the license plate, they can easily identify in which taxi you're traveling and wait for you to reach a stoplight or turn down a deserted road so they can execute their theft.

Drivers working for taxi services are more trusted by Colombians.

If you're living abroad for a few months or more, you should build relationships with a few trusted drivers who work various hours of the day.

This allows you to have a trusted driver on demand 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.

If you rely on taxis to get around, this makes a lot more sense than taking the risk of riding with a random driver every time (even though 99.99% of the taxis rides I've taken in Colombia have been without incident).

The downside is you have to be more patient then if you hailed the next available taxi driving down the street.

Also, sometimes taxis don't show up when scheduled, resulting in time wasted while you wait for another one.

2.  Do not sit in the front passenger seat, sit in the back.

I believe the logic with this tip is that you're less visible, and less accessible since you're able to sit in the middle seat or move to the opposite side should a thief approach you.

The downside is it's harder to have a conversation with the driver, especially if your Spanish is weak.

And, the view isn't as nice as what you get from the front seat.

3. Do not ride with the windows rolled down, keep them up or slightly cracked.

Thieves are looking for easy targets.

By making little changes to the way you ride in a taxi, you signal it'd be easier for them to target someone else.

Keeping the window rolled up may seem like a small thing to do from your perspective, but think of it from the thief's angle for a moment.

He has 30 seconds, 60 seconds max to execute the robbery at a stoplight, therefore every second counts.

If he's wasting time waiting for you to roll down your window, it increases the chances that the light will turn green before he's taken everything he wants, or that someone (such as a passing police motorbike) will notice what's happening and intervene.

The obvious downside is the lack of fresh air, which is especially appreciated in a city like Medellin with its constant Spring-like temperatures.

4. Do not show evidence of valuables, keep your expensive phone in your pocket or purse.

This was a piece of advice I read a while ago but didn't take seriously.

The more taxis I took without incident, the less it seemed to matter.  

I used my Blackberry for email and messaging, so it'd often be in my lap, not held up to my ear where it could easily be snatched from a passing motorist.

That is until I became a victim of armed robbery.

It was the second Blackberry I've had stolen in the city in the last 11 months, and I'm in no rush to buy a new one.

The downside to having a nice phone, or expensive jewelry, in a developing nation is the bigger target it puts on your back. This goes for Colombians as much as it does for foreigners.

I may have been targeted simply because I was in the wrong place at the wrong time (and my skin is white), but it's also possible they saw the Blackberry in my lap and tailed us until we reached a stoplight.

5.  If threatened, do not resist.

If you do find yourself in the unfortunate situation of being robbed, whether or not a weapon is clearly visible, do not resist.

Whatever you've got on you is not worth your health and well being.

Sadly, life carries less value to many people in this world, and the bad guys may not hesitate to stab or shoot you to get what they want.  

I repeat, if being robbed, DO NOT RESIST.

To give yourself peace of mind, consider getting travel insurance before leaving your home country.

That way if you do lose material possessions of value, you have the opportunity to be compensated.

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Medellin Travel GuideMy 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

 

 

 

 

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Anatomy Of An Armed Robbery in South America

Barrio Belen
Barrio Belen

Confronted with my own mortality, in the form of a silver revolver held fifteen inches from my face, the world around me came to a quiet standstill.

Instinct took over.

There was no time to think.

There were no options to consider.

I did what I had to do, and I did it without delay.

Table of Contents

  • Warning Signs
  • Monthly Routine
  • Armed Robbery
  • Aftermath
  • Arriving at DAS
  • Belen Police Station
  • Home, Sweet Home

Warning Signs

On March 5, 2011, Freddie, a twenty-something UK man was riding in a friend's car in the Belen neighborhood of Medellin.

At a stoplight, two men tried to rob him of a gold chain. According to reports, he resisted and was shot fatally in the chest.

When I read the news on Colombia Reports earlier in the year, it sent chills down my spine.

Belen is a large, working-class neighborhood on the Western side of the city. I lived there for five weeks in 2010 and visited monthly to extend my tourist visa in Colombia.

The story reiterated my conviction that if I was ever robbed in South America, whether the assailant was visibly armed or not, I would hand over whatever was in my possession.

Monthly Routine

June 15 started like any other day. I roused myself out of bed around 9 AM and opened the blinds to expose the western mountains of Medellin, as well as my view toward barrio Belen.

I'd been back in Colombia for four months and was due to extend my tourist visa for another 30 days.

After three years in the country, the process was second nature to me.

June 15 also happens to be payday in Colombia, which means more people are visiting ATM's to withdraw cash, and more thieves are on the prowl to take advantage.

I showered, dressed, and walked out the door with 150,000 pesos ($40) cash.

Half this sum would go toward the 72,350 peso deposit required to extend my visa.

The other half would help pay for taxis to and from the Departamento Administrativo de Seguridad (DAS) office.

In addition, I was carrying my four-year-old passport, the one I'd taken around the world with me to more than 22 countries since 2007.

In my front left jean pocket was my Blackberry.

In my back, left pocket was a pack of gum, and in my back right pocket, my Virginia driver's license and a few business cards.

Aside from the passport, these were the things I normally carried around with me.

Leaving my apartment complex, I walked ten minutes north, through discoteca-laden barrio Colombia, to the Premium Plaza mall.

I stepped inside the cool, air-conditioned Banco Davivienda and waited in line for a teller.

I deposited the pesos and collected my bank receipt to take to DAS.

Outside Premium Plaza, I walked to the first yellow taxi in a long line, got in the front seat, and instructed the driver.

Both of the front windows were down, as is often the case during the day given Medellin's amicable climate.

In 2009, I spent my last night in Medellin dancing with friends at La Rumbantela, a small salsa bar on Calle 33.
In 2009, I spent my last night in Medellin dancing with friends at La Rumbantela, a small salsa bar on Calle 33.

Armed Robbery

It was 11:15 AM as we pulled into traffic. I was fiddling with my Blackberry -- checking Twitter no doubt.

In the past, I've had the occasional taxi driver warn me to keep my phone away from the open window, as to prevent theft.

Usually, that's not an issue, as I use my phone more for messaging and internet access than talking to people.

We crossed Rio Medellin, the river that bisects the city from north to south, and were heading west on Calle 33, a  thoroughfare known for its nightlife on the weekends.

The taxi came to a halt at a traffic light.

We were close to a large intersection, but there were cars in front of us, to the right, and possibly to the left as well.

From my peripheral vision, I noticed a dark shape moving up the right side of the taxi toward my window.

Thinking it was a beggar, street performer, or vendor selling something, I instinctively moved my Blackberry toward the center of the car.

There was no thought involved. I was operating on some primal intuition that a threat was approaching.

When I looked back to the right, the man had stopped in front of the window, blocking my entire view in that direction.

At eye level, I was looking straight at a dull, silver revolver being held flush against his stomach, pointing toward the front of the car.

He was holding it in his left hand, which I imagine was on purpose to leave his dominant right hand free to collect my belongings.

The gun looked cheap and old.

He was wearing a helmet, and I don't recall if he said anything, but when I saw the gun, words weren't necessary.

My number was up, I was being robbed in South America.

As quickly as I'd moved my Blackberry away from the window, I swung it back to him without hesitation.

I reached into my front right pocket and pulled out the 75,000 or so pesos ($40) still on me.

I gave that to him too, and then he reached into the car and felt my pocket to see if I was holding out on him.

It was then that I was most scared because I was acutely aware that if he perceived any resistance on my part, he could decide to shoot me.

I pulled out my passport, while at the same time saying "solo pasaporte" to in some way indicate that there would be no value of that item to him, only frustration for me should I lose it.

Either I was wrong, or at that moment he didn't care what I was giving him, so as long as it was everything.

As soon as he grabbed the passport, he was gone.

Aftermath

I sat buckled in my seat, stunned at what had just happened.

The light changed green within seconds, and traffic began to move.

The whole interaction didn't last more than 30 - 60 seconds, but it felt like an eternity.

I didn't think to look back to try and get the motorbike's license plate (an accomplice was driving it), nor did I see which direction they sped off (but I believe it was to the right of us...not in front).

The taxi driver, a middle-aged man, said and did nothing during the interaction. If ever there was a picture of calm and collected, it was this man to my left.

And while some may consider him complicit, as far as I'm concerned, when a gun is involved, it's in everyone's best interest to stay out of it.

My initial response was anger. Anger that I was holding my Blackberry out in plain view, albeit in my lap. 

"Estupido" I proclaimed, (wrongly) blaming myself for inviting the theft.

I asked, rhetorically, why he would want my passport?

Maybe he could sell it to counterfeiters, but it was just as likely to end up in a trash bin when he realized there was no immediate value to it. 

Meanwhile, I would have to take time away from work and incur the travel expenses to Bogota, and the administrative expenses of obtaining an emergency, and later regular, passport.

I felt bitter that a city I was trying to help would repay me with such a terrifying experience.

I felt sad that this experience only served to justify other people's preconceived notions about the safety of Medellin and Colombia.

The taxi driver said little, nor did he offer to call the police at any point.

But I wasn't going to let my only witness go without giving an official account.

Arriving at DAS

Upon reaching DAS, he parked his car and came to the entrance with me, where he relayed the robbery in Spanish to the female guard.

She took his name and license plate and asked that he wait for us to return.

Inside the DAS office, which was all but empty, the guard relayed the story to a man with a shiny silver badge hanging from his neck.  

He immediately called the local police. We walked back outside to the sidewalk, and within a few minutes, a motorbike arrived with two young police officers.

One of the officers immediately began to reassure me, and then we both walked over to the taxi driver who gave his best account of what happened, including a limited description of the perpetrator.

As he was wearing a helmet, and possibly sunglasses, I knew the chances of catching him were slim to none.

But I also knew it was important to get these details for an official police report.

As the taxi driver was giving his account, a police car arrived.

When he was finished, he reached into his taxi and gave me a business card. His parting words, "not all Colombians are bad."

I climbed in the back seat of the air-conditioned cop car.

Two men got in the front and drove us to the nearby Belen police station.

The one in the passenger seat made small talk, asking me where I was from and what I thought of the city.

I imagine that's something they teach in the emergency services.

A kind of redirection of thought for those who've just experienced a traumatic event. Either that or it's simply human nature.

Despite being surrounded by police, I was on edge. Hyper-sensitive to everything going on around me.

Belen Police Station

As we entered the police station, a Volkswagen minivan was filling up with police and heading out.

I wondered if VW had won a recent contract with the city's police force to supply new vehicles.

Inside the station, I was introduced to an officer who spoke a little English.

Two months worth to be exact, but I was happy to have his assistance.

I was brought to another room where I had to wait for a woman to finish her business with a large man who appeared to be a senior level officer. Jefe, he was called by the others.

The small talk continued, and the translator asked my thoughts of the police station.

I had already taken note that it was a handsome building, with exposed concrete walls giving both a sense of strength and austerity.

I asked if it was new, and he said yes. I responded that it was nice.

When the woman had completed her report with el jefe, I switched seats and recounted the story, including the items stolen from me.

The chief was annoyed with the slowness of his computer, but after ten minutes, an official one-page report was printed off.

I was given a copy, which would be required to explain my loss at the US Embassy in Bogota, as well as the DAS office when I returned to get my visa extended.

If I had travel insurance, I would've used it to file a claim as well.

Unfortunately, a lot of insurance policies do not cover Colombia because it is on the US State Department travel warning list (along with other popular destinations such as Mexico, Israel, and Kenya).

Two new police officers were tasked with driving me home in another of the new VW minivans. More small talk ensued.

What did I think of the city? Did I have a girlfriend? Aren't the women in Medellin beautiful?

Home, Sweet Home

When we reached my apartment, I climbed out of the van.

The officer in the passenger seat did as well, taking a moment to write his name and phone number on a piece of paper, should I need anything.

Later that night, I mentioned the theft to my new Colombian roommate. He asked if I would be leaving the country.

No, I responded, I would stay until early August as planned.

Travel is my life now, and I've worked too hard to give that up out of fear alone.

____________

Medellin Travel GuideMy 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

 

 

 

 

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Travel Like A Wizard: 5 ‘Harry Potter’ Magic Items We Wish Existed

Hogwarts at Universal Studios in Japan (photo: manseok Kim, Pixabay)
Hogwarts at Universal Studios, Japan (photo: manseok Kim)

Is July 15, 2011, a travel blackout date in your world?

It is in mine, as that's the release date of the final 'Harry Potter' film, the 'Deathly Hallows Part 2'.  

My wife, a self-proclaimed 'Harry Potter nerd,' has declared that all travel - in addition to any plan not related to seeing the film its opening night -  is entirely off-limits.

Admittedly, I'm not a fan (though our marriage survives regardless).

I've never participated in marathon-like cramming sessions whenever a new, phonebook-sized novel is released. I've never chimed in on any message board to resolve why so-and-so killed what's-his-name.

And if you think I'll be dressed up like a wizard while I wait with my wife in a queue on opening night for the latest film, think again.

I do, however, appreciate the cleverness of the magical items presented in the various films I've sat through, prompting me to dream of how much more pleasant travel would be if they existed. 

So whether you are hardcore about Harry or not, here's my take on five magical items from the world of 'Potter' that would prove invaluable to the avid traveler.

Table of Contents

  • Magic Items
    • 1. Liquid Luck
    • 2. Time Turner
    • 3. Sneakoscope
    • 4. Hermoine's (Expanding) Handbag
    • 5. Invisibility Cloak

Magic Items

1. Liquid Luck

How sweet would it be to drink a vial of Liquid Luck, a potion designed to bring unbelievable luck to whoever consumes it for a short period of time?

I'd down a bottle on my way to the airport, to ensure construction and accident-free travel while my cab zipped along traffic-free expressways.

At the airport itself? Even sweeter.

"Sorry, Mr. Mandra - we overbooked coach so we'll have to upgrade you to first class free of charge. Now let's hurry you along - we're actually departing on time today."

Of course, thanks to a nice tailwind, we arrive much earlier than planned, too.

And did I mention the flight itself is entirely free of screaming babies, armrest hogs, and chatterboxes?

2. Time Turner

The Time Turner, a slick little device allowing for short travels forward in time, might be best used to avoid those inevitable 'dud' tourist attractions we sometimes all fall prey to.

If I had the Time Turner with me in London, I would have dialed it up before visiting a specific museum, to prepare myself for the comical disappointment I would soon experience.

The disappointment?

This museum, dedicated to a prominent English literary figure, proudly presented a 'special' exhibit - an entire room, no less - dedicated to 'Beards Throughout History' (since this literary giant wore a beard at one point in his life, of course….).

Think it's impossible to fill four museum walls with nothing but photos of our hairy heroes? 

Not when you include, alongside photos of actual persons, images of completely unrelated fictional television and movie characters.

Bearded images of everyone from professional wrestler Randy 'Macho Man' Savage to 'Star Wars' character Obi-Wan Kenobi to ape characters from the 'Planet of the Apes' films inexplicably hung prominently from the museum walls, alongside former heads of state and other noted historical stalwarts.

I'd be willing to risk altering the fragile Time-Space Continuum to avoid that mess again.

See also: 9 Places Every Harry Potter Fan Needs to Visit

3. Sneakoscope

A naïve woman I traveled with as part of a group once - I'll call her 'Anne' - would have benefited from using a Sneakoscope, a spinning top that lights up, spins, and whistles if someone is doing something untrustworthy nearby.

First, after arriving in Zimbabwe, she trusted her cab driver enough to exchange her US dollars into local currency (he ripped her off, of course).

Later, 'Anne' swaps her wristwatch (working) with one offered by a street vendor (not working).

Good thing the vendor just happened to have an over-priced watch battery on hand he could sell her!

For 'Anne,' I'd recommend a heavy-duty Sneakoscope because that poor, overworked top would eventually spin itself right into the ground.

4. Hermoine's (Expanding) Handbag

Duct tape. I'm convinced I could earn a small fortune selling nothing but rolls of duct tape near airport check-in, typically the last line of defense for bloated, broken-down luggage. 

One beaten-up suitcase I noticed on its way from Chicago for Amsterdam appeared so bandaged together and wrapped with silver it resembled a round football.

A better solution for those travelers - as well as the rest of us - would be a suitcase with the expandable characteristics of Hermoine's Handbag, allowing you to carry a ton more inside it than outwardly appears.

Maybe that single, magical suitcase (carry-on size, naturally) would be large enough to fit everything - shoes, clothes, and souvenirs.

Of course, even though you could fit everything inside a single bag, the challenge would then be lugging all that weight around with you.

Sounds like we'll get to hear a lot of entertaining airport bickering among couples to me.

5. Invisibility Cloak

The Invisibility Cloak is a no-brainer, handy for any situation where you might want to slip away without a trace.

I would have loved possessing that Cloak one particular time in Scotland, where a plan to share a drink with my wife in a small-town pub got a little uncomfortable thanks to a gregarious (at first) but over-served local man.

He seemed friendly at first ("Pete from Seattle - how are ya, man?"), soon shifted to mean ("My wife's got a face like a wheelbarrow!"), then depressing ("I'm not bein' served!"), before ending on downright weird/creepy/nonsensical ("Jessica Rabbit! Jessica Rabbit!").

Note to the drunk guy: whenever a pub - a pub in Scotland, no less - refuses to serve you liquor, you probably should have stopped consuming a while ago.

Regardless, the Invisibility Cloak would've helped us escape that scene earlier, while also being useful for anyone needing to slip away from awkward situations, boring tour groups and the like.

La Cueva del Esplendor: Horseback Riding in Jardin

Horseback riding in the mountains above Jardin, Colombia.
Horseback riding in the mountains above Jardin, Colombia.

La Cueva del Esplendor ("The Cave of Splendor") is a unique cave with a river running through it in the mountains above Jardin, a small pueblo in Antioquia, Colombia.  

Several friends of mine had recommended Jardin in the past, so I recently took it upon myself to escape the big city for a weekend in the country.

I booked my horseback riding trip to La Cueva through a local guide, Jaime.

I'd been horseback riding in Colombia once before, in La Valle de Cocora, and while it turned out to be a more adventurous ride than I anticipated, it was also a lot of fun.

I was excited to mount up again, though I still approach riding with a lot of caution.

It always reminds me of the Christopher Reeve accident.

For beginner riders, you never know what kind of horse you'll be given, though the sign of a good guide will be the proper matching of a horse's temperament with a rider's experience.

My horse's name was Leonardo, and he turned out to be a real sweetheart.

He followed directions well, and never gave any signs of wanting to gallop down the trail at full speed.

Additional companions for the trip included two Swiss girls who had been living and working in Colombia for several months.

La Cueva del Esplendor
La Cueva del Esplendor

Together, the three of us, plus our guide and a random assortment of locals headed out of Jardin in the back of a share jeep.

You can choose to start your horseback riding within the town, but it's not so scenic and will add several hours to the whole adventure, thus increasing the chances that you'll get rained on in the afternoon.

Once we reached our guide's finca in the mountains above Jardin, we were paired with our horses and set off on the trails leading to La Cueva del Esplendor.

The weather was cool, the sky overcast.

Our ride lasted little more than an hour, which was enough time to appreciate the raw beauty of the landscape, without risking sore bums for the next few days.

With the horses tied up at another finca, we walked about twenty minutes downhill to the cave.

Water rushed furiously through the hole in the ceiling, kicking up a cloud of mist within the cave. We had the option to go for a swim, but the water was far too cold.

The cave itself was interesting, however, I knew all along that it was just an excuse to go horseback riding for a day.

Crossing the river above La Cueva
Crossing the river above La Cueva.

We were given the option of abseiling down into the cave, however, it appealed to none of us, so we hiked back uphill along a river. Literally. 

I've learned there's always an unexpected twist to tours in Colombia.

In this case, it involved leaping over rushing water onto slippery rocks in our loaned rubber boots.

Jaime helped us along, and it turned out to be fun.

It even appeared that the river held some prospects for canyoning, though I only saw a small section.

Heading back to Jardin
Heading back to Jardin.

Back at the second finca, we all took a moment to relax and eat some snacks before mounting our horses for the one hour ride back to Jaime's place.

Once we arrived, and the horses had been sent on their way (up the road to wherever it is they called home), we were treated to fresh maracuya while awaiting the share jeep back to town.

After two horseback riding trips in Colombia, I'm hungry for more.

It's by far the best way to experience the countryside, while at the same time, getting a taste for the rural way of life.

____________

Medellin Travel GuideMy 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

 

 

 

 

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Krabi, Thailand: A Nature Lover's Paradise

Wat Tham Seua - Tiger Temple (Tiger Temple) in Krabi Thailand
Wat Tham Seua - Tiger Temple (Tiger Temple)

There are few places in this world that are as charming as the province of Krabi Thailand.

The province, located in the South of the country is blessed by an array of world-class natural attractions that range from hot waterfalls to limestone cliffs that rise high above pristine island beaches.

A trip to the province of Krabi is both rewarding, entertaining, and outright beautiful!

Here are a few of what I think are the most incredible natural sites to visit in Krabi.

Table of Contents

  • Wat Tham Seua - Tiger Temple 
  • Sa Marakot (Emerald and Blue Pools)
  • Railay Bay
  • Island Hopping in Krabi
  • Khlong Tom - Hot Spring Waterfall
  • Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam - Nature Walk

Wat Tham Seua - Tiger Temple 

What was once a cave hideout for tigers, is now a series of mystifying limestone caves and jungle cliffs that are filled with temples and shrines.

Though tigers have long left the area, there's always that imagination at the back of your mind that a tiger might just leap out of the bushes at any moment and attack you.

A highlight of visiting the temple is climbing the 1,237 strenuous staircase steps to the top of the cliff for a view over the entire region.

Sa Marakot (Emerald and Blue Pools)
Sa Marakot (Emerald and Blue Pools)

Sa Marakot (Emerald and Blue Pools)

They label it as an "Unseen Thailand" attraction, so when I visited, in the back of my head I was expecting no one else to be there.

Though a few others did show up, it was definitely not overrun by people to take away from the serenity and overall beauty of the place.

The Blue Pool was absolutely stunning, an opening in the thick tangled mangroves to unveil a hidden pure turquoise pool.

I wanted to swim in the crystal water, but unfortunately, there was a warning that the minerals could be harmful.

Railay Bay
Railay Bay, Thailand

Railay Bay

Located in a bay that is secluded from the mainland by giant limestone cliffs, Railay Bay remains a picture perfect beach.

The jagged cliff walls and surrounding environment makes Railay a world class destination to rock climb or just an ideal place to relax, enjoy the beauty, and absorb the sunshine.

Island Hopping in Krabi
Island Hopping in Krabi

Island Hopping in Krabi

For many, it's the private islands and the pillars of limestone that emerge from the turquoise water that make Krabi a favorite destination in Thailand.

Hiring a longtail boat for the day, cruising from island to island, stopping on stretches of white sand and taking dips in the warm ocean is an experience fit for royalty.

Khlong Tom - Hot Spring Waterfall
Khlong Tom - Hot Spring Waterfall

Khlong Tom - Hot Spring Waterfall

Take an already glorious hot spring of natural water, flow it down a shelf of rocks, and let the hot water pool up into compartments, and you have a hot spring waterfall jacuzzi wonder.

The hot water perfectly arranged into naturally created jacuzzi tubs is truly soothing on the body and I found it next to impossible to leave.

Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam - Nature Walk
Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam - Nature Walk

Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam - Nature Walk

Located in a swamp on the edge of the ocean, the brackish water at Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam turns a series of different colors and levels of clearness depending on the ocean tide.

Catch the tide at the correct time and the entire area turns into an outdoor aquarium of crystal clear water.

The elevated wooden plank platform provides an incredible nature walk and opportunity to view this natural phenomenon from above.

These are just an introduction to the incredible natural sites around Krabi that make it one of the most captivating places to visit in Southeast Asia.

As the province of Krabi remains one of the more premiere jump off points for island hopping in Southern Thailand, sticking to the mainland also provides natural attractions that are equal to paradise.

If you are a nature lover, taking the time to visit Krabi will surely be an inspiration!

Top 5 Budget-Friendly Things To Do In Hong Kong

View of Hong Kong
View of Hong Kong

Taking a trip to Hong Kong can come as a serious shock from a traveler that originates from Southeast Asia.

A brief 3 day visit to one of the most famous cities in the world can easily cost as much as a month of frugal living expenses in Thailand.

That to say, when I visited Hong Kong, I didn't exactly have the budget to post up in a sky rise hotel (or even a nice hostel), party at a renowned night club, or go on a legendary Hong Kong shopping spree. Nevertheless, the fascinating dense metropolis that makes Bangkok feel like the country-side, has plenty of other attractions that won't bankrupt your trip. Without further adieu, here are 5 picks for budget-friendly things to do in Hong Kong.

Table of Contents

  • 1. Hike to the Top of Victoria Peak
  • 2. Visit the Chungking Mansions
  • 3. Watch a Hong Kong Horse Race
  • 4. Eat Dim Sum
  • 5. Watch the Hong Kong Skyline Lights Show

1. Hike to the Top of Victoria Peak

Taking a cable car to the top of Hong Kong Peak for spectacular views over the entire bay is one of the city's biggest draws. Riding the cable car comes at the cost of 33 HKD round trip.

The good thing is, it's possible to hike it - for FREE. Though it is steep at times, the trail is easy to follow and is well worth the exercise and awesome views of the city while gaining elevation. The hike to the Peak should take around 45 minutes or so. There are also plenty more hiking opportunities in Hong Kong, just moments away from the concrete jungle itself.

Chungking Mansions
Chungking Mansions

2. Visit the Chungking Mansions

In terms of world culture, there are few places in the entire world that are as interesting as the Chungking Mansions. When the Hong Kong bureau of tourism nicknamed their city as "Asia's World City," I wouldn't be surprised if they were walking around these notorious all-purpose structures.

Imagine the entire world coming together in a single building - all with business on their minds. You can almost feel transactions and deals floating from culture to culture through the musty air.

The bottom floor is crammed with everything from fragrant Bangladeshi curry restaurants to outdated mobile phone traders. The higher levels are congested with low budget guest houses, condos, and an assortment of undetermined halls and passageways.

Right next to the Chungking Mansions is another complex known for international business and cheap accommodation, the Mirador Mansions.

Horse Race in Hong Kong
Horse Race in Hong Kong

3. Watch a Hong Kong Horse Race

There's an electrifying atmosphere on a horse race night at the Happy Valley Race Course in central Hong Kong. The bright lights from the race course blind out the sky scrapers lingering in the background creating a spotlight effect on the stadium.

For just 10 HKD entrance and another 10 HKD for a chance to bid on a winning horse, it's possible to have an entertaining evening in Hong Kong. You don't even need to bet on a horse, but you just might win some extra survival money for Hong Kong!

Dim Sum in Hong Kong
Dim Sum in Hong Kong

4. Eat Dim Sum

Eating Hong Kong's most world renowned delicacy doesn't usually come free of charge (unless you organize some kind of hook-up), but it would definitely be a shame to visit the city without at least a couple brunches worth of dim sum!

The dainty bamboo steamers filled with all sorts of dumplings, little petit plates of scrumptious looking things, and edible artful creations are what make dim sum such a wonderful culinary experience. Last time I was in Hong Kong, I enjoyed eating at Lin Heung dim sum for fantastic dim sum and a somewhat traditional dining environment.

Lights of Hong Kong
Lights of Hong Kong

5. Watch the Hong Kong Skyline Lights Show

It's a bit cliche and obvious, but nevertheless there's never been a single person who has visited Hong Kong as a tourist and didn't stop for a moment to view the skyline. The officials didn't give out the "world's best skyline," award to a few low key shacks. Looking over the bay at Hong Kong's skyline at day or night is definitely a sight that will make anyone skip a few breaths in awe.

The magical Hong Kong light show begins as 8 pm daily.

So although it's easy to rack up a massive bill in Hong Kong, there are still plenty of things to do that won't bankrupt your trip!

Medellin Living 2011: The First 3 Months in Review

Copacabana, a small pueblo north of Medellin
Copacabana, a small pueblo north of Medellin.

It's been three and a half months since I returned to Medellin, so being a little past the halfway mark, I wanted to get everyone up to speed on what I've been up to.

For the new readers, I've been spending six months per year in Medellin, Colombia since 2009.  

Within my first week in the city, I'd already started a new blog, Medellin Living, to share my adventures as an expat.

This year I've had the chance to meet quite a few other travel bloggers either passing through town or living here for a few months.  

They include Marcello (Wandering Trader), Brendan (Brendan's Adventures), Gareth (Tourist 2 Townie), Ryan (Ryan Goes Abroad), Jeff (Maverick Traveler), and Jack and Jill Travel.  

Here, in no particular order, are my favorite posts and adventures from the last three months in Colombia:

Poblado Apartment -- description and photos of the apartment I've been living in since September 2010.

Finca in Copacabana (+ Part 2) -- a Colombian friend invites me to his family's weekend home outside the city.

Medellin Women -- a guest post by Marcello of WanderingTrader.com.

Dulce Jesus Mio -- translated as "my sweet Jesus" this is one of my favorite clubs in Medellin!

El Cielo Restaurant - my first experience at a restaurant known for molecular gastronomy.  Lots of photos of the food in this post.

Mondongo -- the traditional tripe soup of Antioquia.

Me Late Chocolate Cafe -- a new Western-style chocolate cafe. Yum!

Salsa in Colombia -- video of Benny the Irish Polyglot's experience learning salsa dancing in Medellin and Cali.

Love Motels - when Colombians want to get intimate, they head for the city's love motels.

Medellin Drinking Guide - the most popular liquors, beers, and drinks in Medellin.

For everyone who asked for a video of me salsa dancing, check out the clip below where I'm dancing with Jessica, who joined Medellin Living as a contributor this year.

The next three months are going to be fun too.  

I'm exploring the pueblos of Jardin and Santa Fe de Antioquia, as well as a popular section of the Caribbean coast, including Santa Marta, Taganga, and Parque Nacional Tayrona.

And back in Medellin, July and August promise to be busy with the annual Colombia Salsa Congress, Colombiamoda (fashion week), La Feria de las Flores (Flower Festival) and FIFA Under-20 World Cup soccer tournament.

____________

Medellin Travel Guide

My 138-page, all-original Medellín Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

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From Baksheesh to Sheesha - A Few Unexpected Memories of Egypt

Temple of Hatshepsut
Temple of Hatshepsut

I had my ticket to Egypt, I was thrilled.

My mind started racing through images like mentally flipping through the pages of an Egypt Google image search. The Great Pyramids of Giza, the Valley of the Kings, the Temple of Karnak, Ramses the Great, Tutankhamen, Akhenaten, Nefertiti, - I couldn't believe I finally had the chance to see these ancient places of the Pharaohs, things I had studied and heard about for so long in my life.

I traveled to Egypt.

The sites were breathtaking masterpieces of architectures and human genius. I was dumbfounded by the ancient stone carvings and Pharaonic reliefs that were etched deep into the stones. It was truly remarkable to see such ancient Egyptian sites.

But these ancient Egyptian creations were what I came to Egypt in search of, they were what I was expecting and what I had dreamed about prior to visiting.

What truly made a dent in my mind was a few things about Egypt that I wasn't expecting...

Table of Contents

  • Baksheesh
  • Hospitality
  • Sheesha
  • Jellabiya
  • Ful (pronounced "fool") - It's Beans!
  • Final Thought

Baksheesh

Baksheesh is about money. There are 3 forms of baksheesh in Egypt: begging, tipping, and giving for special permission of favors. From using a public toilet to being granted permission to see a secret set of hieroglyphics that a guard personally shows you (without you asking), there's a few Egyptian Pounds that will inevitably leave your wallet as baksheesh money.

It's so much a part of the tourism industry, that there's not a soul who has visited Egypt without encountering some form of baksheesh. Know how to calmly handle it, and it can be an interesting part of Egyptian culture.

Hospitality

From the moment I set foot in Cairo, I noticed the hospitality and kindness of the local Egyptians. Though things get a bit out of control behind wheels (driving ), catch an Egyptian in a calm setting and he or she will customarily be welcoming and gracious.

From making friends through Couchsurfing in Cairo to chatting with a random street food vendor, throughout my time in Egypt I was shown genuine hospitality from Egyptians time and time again.

Sheesha in Egypt
Sheesha in Egypt

Sheesha

The smoking of flavored tobacco through water pipes is an in-demand and ancient past time that extends from Turkey to Lebanon to Egypt. Cafe's around the country host people (usually men) who choose to take a break, sip a tea, and puff the relaxing dragon.

It's also very acceptable to just sit at the cafe and down cups of wonderful tea (without smoking sheehsa).

Wearing the Jellabiya!
Wearing the Jellabiya!

Jellabiya

Forget about sweats, gym shorts, tank tops, or even pajamas. No Western style garment even compares to the ultimate comfort of an Egyptian Jellabiya. It can basically be described as a gigantic baggy round tube of cloth with sleeves and a head opening at the top.

It took me almost 2 weeks in Egypt until I had the guts to rock a Jellabiya full-time, but once I made switch, I immediately reaped the benefits of this extreme lounge-wear. One of my favorite aspects of a Jellabiya is that there's no need to worry about eating a huge buffet meal - because 1 size fits all!

Ful - Egyptian Beans
Ful - Egyptian Beans

Ful (pronounced "fool") - It's Beans!

I'm a lover of food. Eating for me is deeper than a necessity, it's a passion, something I get excited about doing every meal everyday! Egypt was no exception, and though I was grateful to sample loads of outstanding Egyptian cuisine, it was the ful that I just couldn't get enough of!

Ful can be described as a similar bean creation as forms of Mexican re-fried beans, except usually a little less mashed. The beans are often eaten as an Egyptian sandwich, loaded into Arabic bread and garnished with pickled vegetables, a squirt of olive oil, and a dabble of special sauce.

Cheap, filling, and nutritious, I got into an enjoyable habit of downing as much ful as I possibly could!

Final Thought

So though I immensely enjoyed the ancient Egyptian historical sites and attractions, it was a few of the little (and unexpected) things that made my trip to Egypt so memorable.

The things I couldn't mentally picture from a Google search or from that Egyptology class I took in University, are what made my time in Egypt truly spectacular.

Photo Favorite: Nepali Breakfast

On my first morning in Kathmandu, I was greeted with a typical Nepali breakfast of vegetable and potato soup, roti (fried, unleavened bread), fruit salad, and the most delicious milk tea I'd ever (and perhaps will ever) taste.

The Nepali breakfast is clearly very different from what I was used to in the US, but it was delicious and filling.

Nepali breakfast
Nepali breakfast

Fear of Travel - Don't Let It Stop You From Seeing the World

Waiting to get a bed at Bob's Youth Hostel in Amsterdam
Waiting to get a bed at Bob's Youth Hostel in Amsterdam.

A few of my fellow bloggers have recently written about overcoming one's fear of travel, so I thought it an appropriate time to share my experiences through 34 years and 34 countries.

Let's go back in time to the very beginning.

Table of Contents

  • 1998 - Backpacking in Europe
    • Fear of Travel #1 - Telling My Parents
    • Fear of Travel #2 - Traveling Solo
  • 2001 - Egypt and the 9/11 Attacks
    • Fear of Travel #3 - Terrorism and Civil Unrest
  • 2007 - Around the World Trip
    • Fear of Travel #4 - I'll Run Out of Money Before My Trip is Over
    • Fear of Travel #5 - Rare Tropical Diseases & Falling Ill on the Road
  • 2009 - Travel and Living in Colombia
    • Fear of Travel #6 - Going Off the Beaten Track

1998 - Backpacking in Europe

It wasn't even my idea at the time. Three of my best friends and college roommates were going to spend two months in Europe after graduation.

I started to feel like the odd man out and decided I wanted to go too.

Fear of Travel #1 - Telling My Parents

The biggest fear of this trip was breaking the news to my parents that their newly-minted college graduate was about to run around Europe with his friends instead of looking for work.

I knew this was an age-old tradition, and hoped my Mom would appreciate where I was coming from as she'd traveled a fair bit in her 20's as well.  

I broke the news to them, and while I can't recall the details, it all worked out fine.

Within a few months of returning home, I started working at a company I'd continue to be with for the next three and a half years.

Fear of Travel #2 - Traveling Solo

While I was having the time of my life visiting the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam, and sipping red wine in Venice, my friends were talking of home within the first seven days.  

I could hardly believe it. Two of them missed their girlfriends, and one was worried about money.

Neither was an issue for me, so I resolved to continue traveling as planned for the full seven weeks.  

Until then, we'd been together almost 24/7, but it was clear we had different priorities.  

I would suggest the Medici Palace in Florence, and my friends preferred to read in the hostel.

Our time together gave me a chance to learn the backpacking ropes, and when it came time to say goodbye, I remained in Florence as everyone else started to make their way back to Paris for flights home.

Standing in the hostel dorm room, I was alone for only a few minutes before I remember striking up a conversation with another traveler about punk music.

And then before I knew it, I was out to dinner with a huge group of backpackers from the hostel.

And ever since then, I've known traveling solo doesn't have to mean you do everything by yourself (actually, it's quite the opposite).

Related: Why Confronting Fears While Traveling Makes You a Better Person

Great Pyramids in Giza
In 2008, I finally made it to Egypt, seven years after I initially planned to go.

2001 - Egypt and the 9/11 Attacks

I'd been working hard, but not earning a lot at that first job. Travel took a back seat to buy a shiny new Volkswagen Jetta.

Before I knew it, I was in my mid-twenties without another international trip (beyond a snowboarding vacation in British Columbia).  

Through the internet, I booked a cheap package trip to Egypt for early October 2011.

Fear of Travel #3 - Terrorism and Civil Unrest

Then the 9/11 attacks happened. I had to decide if I should continue on my trip to the Middle East, or cancel.

I knew at the time to cancel out of fear alone would be silly. I knew it.

But with daily images on the news of the Twin Towers burning, and my parents advising against it, I canceled anyways.

The decision was aided by the fact that Delta canceled their service to Cairo, at least for a short time, and therefore I got a full refund on the airfare.

I lost a few hundred dollars after canceling the tour.

Trip cancellation coverage, such as you get with Good2Go, might've prevented that too.

What bothered me for years to follow was the knowledge that I let my fears govern my behavior.

It's a slippery slope once you start allowing that to happen, and I've tried hard not to let it happen since.

Hotel room on Phuket
The small hotel room where I spent ten days in bed

2007 - Around the World Trip

In my mid-twenties, I decided to make up for lost time with an epic, 12+ month trip around the world.

Fear of Travel #4 - I'll Run Out of Money Before My Trip is Over

I spent five and a half years paying off credit card debts and saving enough money to the point where I felt I could last 12 months or more, without having to work overseas.

Ultimately, there's no way around the fear that you'll run out of money too soon.

You have to set a savings goal based on your best estimations and online research, and then go when you reach it.

Otherwise, it's too easy to keep saving, and never actually do the difficult things required to take off on a long term trip (tell your family, quit your job, sell/store your stuff).

As it turned out, I had enough money to travel for 15 months through 21 countries.

I didn't get to go everywhere I wanted, but show me a traveler whoever does.

Fear of Travel #5 - Rare Tropical Diseases & Falling Ill on the Road

I'm a recovering hypochondriac.

I use to (and still sometimes do) blow symptoms out of proportion, and as a result, get myself worked up over nothing.

Planning a trip to exotic locations around the world, from the comfort of home, makes this all the easier to do.

Who hasn't read the story of the guy who contracted weird tropical worms while living in the jungles of Borneo?

Fear of illness or injury is one fear I know many others share as well.

During my trip around the world, I had an occasional cold or aches and pains from a trek, but luckily, serious health issues were not a problem.

The exception was my stay in Phuket, which was meant to only last a few days but turned into a two-week ordeal.

The short version is I had a medium-strength headache and fever, and after numerous trips to pharmacies and doctors, I never really knew the cause-some kind of infection.

Meanwhile, I was bedridden with what I can best describe as an extreme case of lethargy. I simply had no energy.

Toward the end, I started to suspect mononucleosis and considered flying halfway around the world to be back home in the US until I felt better.

But I was stubborn. I got a second opinion from a different doctor who spoke better English.

Within a few days of his treatment (which involved a shot of cortisone to my behind), I was on the move again.

It was one of the scariest moments of my trip, being alone and bedridden, wondering what was wrong with me.

Ultimately, I'm proud I didn't let my fear drive me to do something extreme, like booking a flight home.

This is not to say under different circumstances, it wouldn't have been the right course of action (and potentially covered by international travel insurance).

Overcoming the fear of travel in Medellin, Colombia
Paragliding in the mountains above Medellin, Colombia

2009 - Travel and Living in Colombia

I received more than a few cocaine and kidnapping jokes when I shared my plans to visit Colombia with friends and family.

I'd wanted to go since talking to a Swiss backpacker in Costa Rica way back in 2005.

He said it was safe (at least as safe as any other Latin country) and beautiful.

I wanted to go because nobody else was talking about it, let alone thinking of the country as a "must-see" destination in South America.

Fear of Travel #6 - Going Off the Beaten Track

Admittedly, I was a bit apprehensive about traveling to cities I'd only heard of in the context of car bombings and Hollywood movies about narco-trafficking.

Still, I purposefully wanted to face that fear head-on.

In early 2009, I touched down in Bogota and took a taxi from the airport to a university student's apartment where I'd be Couchsurfing my first week.

Walking into her apartment, I immediately saw The Simpsons on TV, and the two girls using their laptops with Wi-Fi internet.

My too-embarrassing-to-mention stereotypes of life in Colombia shattered in an instant.

And when I got to Medellin, it was all over for me.

The city was one of the most beautiful I'd seen in all my travels, the climate was perfect, and the streets were full of life.

I pushed through my fear, and the concerns of many others on my behalf, and found them to be paper-thin.

Now, in my thirties and looking back, I've learned pushing through one's fear of travel is like exercising a muscle.

The more you do it, the stronger you become.

______________

This story is brought to you in partnership with Good2Go.

Mount Kinabalu - A Failed Mission to Climb SE Asia's Most Famous Peak

Mount Kinabalu
Mount Kinabalu, So Clear in the Morning!

Mount Kinabalu's location is on the tropical island of Borneo, positioned in the Malaysian state of Sabah. I arrived to Kota Kinabalu, the nearest major city to the mountain, eager to summit the peak and in the end proclaim that I had defeated one of SE Asia's highest (4,095 meters) and most captivating wonders!

Normally the trek works like this:

  • Start hiking day 1 to the main base camp at Laban Rata
  • Relax and spend the night on the mountain
  • Wake up early in the morning on day 2 and ascend to the top for the summit view of the rising sun
  • Lastly, climb all the way down the mountain on day 2.

Unfortunately, there's only one place to spend the night on the mountain, and it cames at the unaffordable price of about $100 USD per night!

I had to consider a different option.

My friend and I decided to avoid the normal hiking routine and attempt to accomplish the entire trek in a single day.

Mount Kinabalu
The Start of the Trail

We awoke at about 4 am, knowing we would need to push ourselves to the top in order to make it down before nighttime darkness would fall. Though the trail is well used and very marked out, the park requires all hikers to hire a guide.

The guides took their time to arrive at the base of the mountain, assuring us there was no hurry to begin climbing and that the weather looked good for the day. We breathed a sigh of relief (they were the experts, right?).

Pitcher Plant
Pitcher Plant

We began the grueling hike at about 7 am, a virtual 45 degree thigh burning staircase. The diverse botany of Borneo was a true pleasure to see, and the spectacular scenery changed every hour with our gain of elevation.

As we continued, the breeze transformed from a musty tropical humidity to a stiff wall of coldness, the previous sweat on our shirts sending chills through our bodies.

View from Laban Rata
View from Laban Rata

We arrived at the Laban Rata camp (where most people spend the night) with ample time to make it to the top and back before darkness.

We stuffed ourselves with some carbohydrates, indulged in a few energy enlifting snacks and set off for the final 2 hours to the summit. Though the weather was still adequate, there was an evil chill in the air, the kind that tosses signals of poor conditions to come.

Mount Kinabalu
Climbing the Rocks

The final bit of the hike is a steep rock climbing scramble, making it necessary to hold on to ropes in order to reach the top. The threatening weather negatively barked on us as we approached the home stretch of the top of Mount Kinabalu.

Electrifying bolts of lightning followed by sonic booms of thunder seemed to erupt from nowhere. The rain that followed was like a bucket being dumped from the heavens. The jagged rocks weren't so accommodating, creating sheets of runoff water and making it next to impossible to continue.

Rain and Fog on Mount Kinabalu
Rain and Fog on Mount Kinabalu

Our guide received a call from the park headquarters, a message we had already assumed was inevitable. We were told that we could not possibly continue, due to the torrential rain.

Just 30 minutes from the top, and our hearts sank.

Through our disappointment, we had NO choice but to turn around, leaving the top of Mount Kinabalu a mystery blanketed in threatening clouds.

As we descended, once again the shift of weather hit us hard, except now we were throwing off the layers of clothing and feeling the rays of the tropical sunshine. We made it off Mount Kinabalu, sweaty and fatigued, the thought of freezing coldness and torrential rain just a memory.

Though because of the weather conditions we failed to make it to the top of Mount Kinabalu, the excitement and beauty of climbing one of SE Asia's highest peaks and being surrounded by tropical beauty was undoubtedly worth all the time and energy exerted.

Here's how much it costs to climb Mount Kinabalu in 1 day:

223.50 MYR ($74.82) that included park entry fees, guide (split by 2), mandatory insurance and a short shuttle ride. I guess the only way one could save a little more money is by getting 2 more people to use the same guide.

Tag on an extra 100 bucks or so for spending the night at the shivering Laban Rata base camp.

I would still recommend attempting to climb Mount Kinabalu in 1 day, just beware that nature is much more powerful than any weather man!

Snow Monkeys - The Japanese Macaque of Nagano

Snow monkeys.

Those two words were all it took to get me on a bullet train out of Tokyo.

Destination: Nagano. The city name was familiar....ah yes, the 1998 Winter Olympics. 13 years ago.

A silver lining to all the cold weather I endured in Japan during Winter was the chance to see snow monkeys, or Japanese macaque as they're formally known, in actual snow. Playing, digging for food, and hanging out in a custom built snow monkey onsen.

One of the adult snow monkeys hanging around the onsen.
One of the adult snow monkeys, hanging around the onsen, looking serious.

A baby snow monkey playing on the ropes.
A baby snow monkey playing on the ropes.

Snow monkeys bathing in and drinking from a natural hot spring.
Snow monkeys drink from and bathe in the same hot spring.

Snow monkey eyes
Several photographers had tripods set up with DSLR's just a foot or two away from the bathing snow monkeys. Their goal was to capture the eyes of the snow monkey, preferably this pose where its head is down drinking, but the eyes roll up to see what's going on.

Snow monkey in Nagano
It's a little out of the way, but I highly recommend a visit to Nagano to see the snow monkeys in their natural environment.

If you liked these photos, be sure to check out additional posts about Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda and Orangutan Trekking in Sumatra.

Top 5 Things To Do In Sydney

A little over two years ago, I landed in Australia with a backpack, a budget, and very little time. I gave myself a mere five days for Australia's most famous city and was thus forced to prioritize the top things to do in Sydney.

For travelers yet to see the city, there are a ton of cool sights to see, and neighborhoods to check out, so by no means is this list comprehensive.

Without further ado, I present my top five things to do in Sydney, Australia.

Table of Contents

  • Sydney Attractions
    • 5. Darling Harbour
    • 4. The Rocks
    • 3. Queen Victoria Building
    • 2. Bondi Beach
    • 1. The Sydney Opera House

Sydney Attractions

5. Darling Harbour

Darling Harbour offers something for everyone. Whether you're a backpacker looking to enjoy a few beers with new friends, a couple seeking a romantic seafood dinner (complete with fireworks depending on the night), or a family with a fondness for IMAX movies, chances are you'll find it in the harbor.

View of Sydney's skyline from Darling Harbour
View of Sydney's skyline from Darling Harbour

For visiting families, check out the best things to do in Sydney with kids, including Taronga Zoo, SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium, and the Darling Quarter playground.

And there's something special about being by the water that turns a regular nightlife district into a unique environment.

There are plenty of hotels near Darling Harbour, so it's an ideal area to base yourself when visiting Sydney.

4. The Rocks

I wouldn't have known about The Rocks if it weren't for a local Aussie friend, who, in a prior line of work, was a tour guide.  

When she suggested we spend an afternoon exploring this historic, cobblestoned neighborhood, I took her up on it without knowing what awaited us.

Puppet shop
Puppet shop we discovered while exploring The Rocks.

In the late 18th century, European settlers first set foot in Australia in the area now known as The Rocks.

Much development occurred during the 19th century, and those buildings have since been turned into a wide array of restaurants, bars, shops, and museums.

If you don't luck out like me and end up befriending a former guide, you can still get a lay of the land by joining a historic walking tour or an organized pub crawl. You can even sign up for a ghost tour!

3. Queen Victoria Building

While shopping may not be your forte, everyone who visits Sydney should at least take a walk through the Queen Victoria Building.  

The Queen Victoria Building
The Queen Victoria Building

Unlike any other shopping mall I've visited, the historic building was completed in 1898, and it shows from the facade's design to the mosaic floors throughout the interior.

Situated in the Central Business District and taking up an entire square block, it's a hard building to miss if you're walking around downtown.  

Designer stores may be beyond your budget; however, they're terrific places to grab a cup of coffee and indulge in a little people-watching.

Tea aficionados should head to Level 3 for the upscale Tea Room, which offers a variety of morning and afternoon teas, as well as à la carte lunches for those with an appetite.

2. Bondi Beach

Bondi Beach is one of the most well-known surf spots in Australia, if not the world.

Surfers at Bondi Beach
Surfers at Bondi Beach

Large waves and strong riptides mean it's not the best place to learn to surf; however, the wide expanse of beach, coupled with pretty views, ensures visitors can enjoy the atmosphere whether or not they get in the water.

If lying out in the sun and working on your tan isn't a priority, then you can get some exercise walking the popular coastal route from Bondi Beach to Coogee Beach.  

Along the way, you'll pass a series of secluded beaches and surf spots. Bring sun protection, as you'll be exposed to the sun for at least an hour or two.

If you're a beach bum at heart, consider basing yourself at one of the hotels in Bondi Junction.

1. The Sydney Opera House

The Opera House is a symbol of Sydney and Australia as a whole, and therefore continues to rank at the top of every visitor's "must see" list.

The Sydney Opera House
The Sydney Opera House

And with good reason, too. The architecture is unique, and the setting is gorgeous.

In Sydney, you'd be hard-pressed to find a better location to sit back and enjoy a glass of wine with friends, new or old.

After taking a drink at one of the surrounding restaurants, get up close and personal with the iconic building.

There's no need to feel self-conscious as you look for cool angles and play with different poses. I assure you, there will be tourists from around the world doing the same thing!

There you have it, my top five things to do in Sydney, as I would recommend to any friend.

5 Things We Can Learn from The Amazing Race

The following is a guest post by Pete Mandra, author of Overland.

Hectic streets of Delhi, India
The hectic streets of Delhi, India.

Berating lost cab drivers, rushing through exotic landscapes most of us have only dreamed of visiting, and more tears, bickering and overall bad behavior than a liquor-infused holiday get-together.

At its worst, I’ve just described an episode of the popular reality television program The Amazing Race, where pairs of travelers compete against other teams in a race around the world to win $1 million US.

Personally, I have a ‘love-hate’ relationship with The Amazing Race. When I curl up with my wife, Jessica, on Sunday nights to tune it in, the program serves as the perfect kindling to fuel dreams of our next exotic trip, whether it's Morocco, India or the Seychelles Islands.

So what do I hate? ‘Ugly American’ behavior (which, as an American, I am skilled at identifying). Pseudo celebrity contestants, like reality show ‘stars’, athletes, and beauty pageant winners.

Mostly, though, I think it’s the fact that I haven’t been asked to be a contestant yet…

So, aside from brushing up on my geography, what have I learned from watching The Amazing Race? Plenty, which, when combined with my own travel experiences, may assist you in navigating your next journey through an exotic land.

Table of Contents

  • Play To Your Strengths
  • Pack Lightly
  • Expect To Get Lost At Some Point
  • Tread Lightly
  • Live In The Moment

Play To Your Strengths

When an Amazing Race team is assigned a task to perform as part of the contest, they must decide what team member is best suited to perform that task, without any assistance by their teammate, and hope for the best.

Many otherwise strong teams finish last and are eliminated after they mistakenly select the team member who can’t perform the assigned task in timely fashion, like dance the Samba in Brazil or excel in an Indian tea tasting.

Are you one of those people who can be dropped anywhere yet orient themselves instantly? Lucky you – I can get lost in a hall closet.

So when my wife and I drove our rental car through the winding, narrow roads of a seaside town in Italy, I resigned myself to map duty while she somehow instinctively guided us to our intended destination successfully. But when we negotiated the price on that exotic, Jordanian vase?  I handled that. Know what you excel at and know when you’re overmatched.

Pack Lightly

The Amazing Race is all about flying from Point A to Point B as quickly as possible, meaning saving time by carrying on all luggage is a must (just once, I’d love to see a team mistakenly check luggage and wait, exasperated, for it to finally roll off the carousel).

One past season, a team even lost their carry-on luggage and had to make do exclusively with only the clothes on their backs (until afforded the opportunity to buy additional clothes at the next travel stop).

With charges levied for checking bags on airlines, it’s in your best interest to pack lightly, or forgo checking bags altogether if possible. Just don’t be one of those people who hog all the overhead space, or frantically push and grab their bag the very second the plane lands (we aren’t going anywhere until they open the doors!).

At the other extreme, don’t be compelled to travel without luggage at all, choosing instead to wear layer upon layer upon layer of clothes onto the plane. I’ve seen it. It’s a little weird.

Expect To Get Lost At Some Point

Without fail, it seems that during every Amazing Race season finale, when the three remaining teams are on the journey’s last leg for the million dollar prize, victory comes down to being lucky enough to find a cab driver who knows the area.

This past season played out like most others – two teams were both fortunate to work with speedy and knowledgeable cab drivers, while the third team lost valuable time after their driver had steered them well off course.

Personally, I’ve had the particularly mind-numbing experience of spending three hours(!) in smoggy and suffocating bumper-to-bumper Cairo traffic, trying in vain to translate a hotel map written in English to a cab driver who didn’t read the language.

Next time, I think I’ll take a page from The Amazing Race playbook and insist we stop at a hotel to ask for directions. It won’t prevent you from getting lost, but most hotels have English-speaking staff able to help bridge your communication gap. Of course, as viewers of The Amazing Race have witnessed, not all cab drivers are humble enough to ask for directions……

Approaching The Great Pyramids of Giza
Approaching The Great Pyramids of Giza by camel.

Tread Lightly

Though it may make for interesting television, it’s hard to watch Amazing Race contestants become rude and obnoxious towards the locals. As stressful as racing for $1  million must be, it makes me cringe each time I see contestants yell directions in English to non-speakers (‘If I scream it loud enough, they’ll understand!’) or discount cultural differences out of sheer frustration (‘This is completely stupid! I hate this country!’). Not exactly the ambassadors you would hope for……

‘Bashish.’ ‘Bashish.’ When an Egyptian local first shared that word with me, I forgot the few terms I memorized prior to my trip and mistakenly interpreted it as a greeting. “Wow!”, I told my wife. “These people are really friendly!”

Only then did she (thankfully) remind me that ‘bashish’ is a request/expectation of a monetary tip for services rendered, whether it’s uttered by a smiling uniformed police officer snapping your photo in front of the Giza pyramids or by the shopkeeper’s son who tosses your water bottle purchases into a plastic sack.

I’m not going to deny that getting hit up for tips at every turn doesn’t get a little frustrating, because it absolutely, truly does. But if you try to accept it as strictly a difference in culture, no different than how we Americans seemingly wrap ourselves in our country’s Flag, it’s a little more tolerable.

Live In The Moment

Ironically enough, due to the frantic pacing of The Amazing Race, contestants seem to only appreciate their international experience when their own journey concludes, usually when they discover they’re in last place and will likely be eliminated from the $1 million competition as a result.

It’s at that moment, after reflecting on all of their shared, special moments, does the magnitude of what they’ve been lucky enough to experience – visiting scores of exotic places around the world - sink in.

Don’t wait until your journey’s end to appreciate and enjoy your travel experience, whether you find yourself in a city a few hours away from home or in some exotic stretch of South American jungle.

Find some quiet time to experience life around you. Pause to the intoxicating aroma of freshly baked croissants from a humble Paris café. Observe children at play in a schoolyard in Africa and delight in their laughter. Embrace the haunting, spiritual sound of the Mecca Call to Prayer, its echoes amplified further as it bounces across a stone clad, Jordanian town square.

Remember: travelling somewhere – anywhere – isn’t about marking it off your checklist just to say you’ve been there. No matter where you journey takes you, experience it. Live it.

________

About the Author: Pete Mandra is the author of Overland, a humorous travel narrative (‘Bill Bryson meets Generation X’) chronicling his budget, six-week ‘overland’ tour through Africa with his wife and a truckload of strangers. To learn more about Pete and his novel, check out the Facebook page for Overland.

Photo Credit:  David Lee

How Volunteering Can Lead to Extraordinary Travel Experiences

Gawad Kalinga Houses
Tita Silver's New Village

What is the definition of volunteering?

To help build a house for a few months, slaving away, grumbling through the work, but doing it for a good cause?

Could it be staying at an orphanage for a while, taking care of kids with no families, and being a friend?

Does it mean sacrificing a few of those "must-do" attractions while you travel?

While in Manila, Philippines, I got in touch with a group called Gawad Kalinga through a Couchsurfing host and friend.

They aim to build homes for the poor in the Philippines, creating a safe environment and teaching about sustainable lifestyles.

Payatas, Manila, Philippines
Tita Silver's Old Village

I decided to get involved for a few weeks, not fully knowing what to expect but aiming to learn about the reality of life in Manila and hoping to learn just a bit about Filipino culture.

I headed to the Payatas area of Manila and was welcomed into the house of Tita Silver, an owner of a home previously built with the help of Gawad Kalinga.

Her family lived in an area that was shunned, frowned upon by people's subconscious reactions.

I helped a few Filipino men mix concrete, carry sand, and helped the carpenter with tasks during the daytime.

In this Payatas area of Manila that is so neglected, people were smiling at me, acknowledging the fact that I was out there with real people, not locked away in a hotel room.

I received comments like "I never seen a foreigner here before," and "Thank you for visiting the Philippines!"

Tita Silver had kids who were thrilled that I was staying with them and being a guest in their home.

The daughters enjoyed the fact that I was so passionate about all forms of food, gigantically smiling when I expressed my love of their cooking.

The sons showed me around, took me to a few nooks and crannies of Manila that I would never have seen if I was by myself (or probably couldn't have gone by myself).

Within a few days of being in Payatas, I could walk down the muddy street, and people would raise their hand to wave or even say, "hello, how are you?"

Butchering a Pig in Payatas
The neighborhood of Payatas, Manila, Philippines

Did I miss the tourist attractions by enjoying a flavor of the authentic Filipino culture in Manila?

For me, not at all. Quite the opposite. After a few days of helping out with Tita Silver, I received an experience that would last forever.

Here are just a few ways (among many) volunteering can lead to extraordinary travel experiences:

  • First-hand experience of the culture of the country
  • A chance to observe the real side of the destination
  • Discover local traditions and customs
  • Sample typical day to day food
  • Be able to ask locals questions about their lifestyles
  • A chance to help others
  • Sometimes an opportunity to live for free
Orphanage, Bali, Indonesia
Orphanage in Indonesia

Sure, as travelers, we could aim to visit all the touristic sites, pushing our way from place to place with haste.

How about the people that live in a country? Are they not the foundation behind the attractions?

Volunteering is one of the best ways to experience another country, a way to gain a perspective outside of regular tourist routines.

How Can You Get Started Volunteering?

Do an online search for "volunteering," and you will receive a mixed bag of options, many volunteer placement programs that are priced way above a long-term travelers budget.

So how can you avoid the high prices of fee-based official volunteer programs?

While traveling around the world, there are countless free opportunities to make a difference in the lives of others - without a high fee.

Every time I have volunteered, I have shown up somewhere, asked around for opportunities, and gone from there. I have never been part of a fee-based volunteer program.

I usually have either just paid for my expenses or have been taken care of altogether by the hospitality of someone like Tita Silver. 

The results have been several unparalleled insights into a culture, lots of exciting and educating conversations, some great local meals, and hopefully a few lasting memories in the lives of others.

Football in Indonesia
Playing Football in Indonesia

When I was in Bali, a friend and I were walking on the side of a road, heading towards a beach, when we noticed a sign for an orphanage.

With no set plans, we entered the gate. The kids were doing chores, and when they saw us, their eyes lit up gleefully.

I played football with the boys, watched the girls practice traditional Balinese dance, and went into the kitchen to help with food preparation.

At night we sang songs, read some stories, and hung out. Eleven hours later, we left the orphanage, an experience that was a bit more valuable to me than another sunny beach day in Bali.

There's no single way to get started as a volunteer, nor is there a particular contract dictating the amount of time one must volunteer.

If you are concerned with the high fee-based volunteer programs while you travel, keep your eyes peeled for the many free opportunities out there!

There are many, and you don't need to sign up to participate.

Suppose you are interested in more information on volunteering and the difference between fee-based and non-fee-based volunteer options. In that case, you might want to check out the Underground Guide to International Volunteering.

Kaiseki in Kyoto, Japan

In Kyoto, beyond enjoying the best sushi of my life, I was also discovering new cuisines like Kushikatsu.

Kaiseki was another discovery. It's a Japanese form of haute cuisine with a special emphasis on multiple courses, local seasonal ingredients, and presentation.  As you'll see in the photos below, presentation plays an important role through the 9-course meal I enjoyed one evening.

In keeping with traditional Japanese etiquette, I had removed my shoes at the restaurant's entrance, and sat Indian style on the floor at a low table where I awaited each course with great anticipation (mostly because I couldn't read the Japanese menu).

If you've tried Kaiseki in Kyoto, I'd like to hear about your experience in the Comments section.

Course #1 includes a variety of small dishes.
Course #1 includes a variety of small dishes (from left): jellyfish, tofu, unidentifiable gelatin cube, ?, chicken, ?

Course #2: prawn, tuna, white fish sashimi
Course #2: prawn, tuna, white fish sashimi

Course #3: vegetable soup
Course #3: vegetable soup

Course #4:  unknown
Course #4: unknown

Course #5: spring roll
Course #5: spring roll

Course #6: fresh peeled tomato (I think)
Course #6: fresh peeled tomato (I think)

Course #7: a protein, possibly chicken, with vegetables
Course #7: a protein, possibly chicken, with vegetables

Course #8: unidentified
Course #8: unidentified

Course #9: green tea pudding
Course #9: green tea pudding

Recreating Scenes from Lost in Translation

Warning sign
A sign warns visitors to be careful when walking across the stone walkway.

There are a lot of hidden benefits to visiting Japan in the off season, but visiting the gardens is not one of them. I soon discovered most, if not all, of the shrines and temples I visited featured meticulously cared for gardens, only in Winter, they all lack flowers (and color).

In Kyoto, I visited the popular Heian Shrine with the express purpose of finding the location where a scene from Lost in Translation was shot. Specifically speaking, Scarlett Johansson's character is seen skipping across a stone walkway over a pond.

Earlier in Tokyo, I'd already enjoyed a Suntory whisky at the Park Hyatt a la Bill Murray's character.

Running across the stone steps
Take 1: running across the stone steps.

To access the shrine was free, if I recall correctly, however you needed to buy a ticket to visit the gardens. And guess how many people pay to visit Japanese gardens in Winter?

Answer - not many, so I had the whole garden to myself.

When I happened across the stone walkway from the movie, I recognized it instantly, and used the opportunity to have a little fun with my camera.

I balanced it on a sign post, set the auto-timer, and then began to recreate scenes from Lost in Translation.

Walking across the path was boring in the photos, so I jogged.  Then, since I was absolutely alone, I also took a moment to meditate...well, at least long enough to snap the photo which makes it look like I'm meditating.

Meditating in the gardens of Heian Shrine
A moment of meditation in the gardens of Heian Shrine.

The impromptu photo session was worth the price of admission (which was in the area of $5), though I don't recommend paying for Japanese gardens in Winter.

An Unforgettable Day in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei

Brunei is a small nation located between Malaysia and Indonesia, occupying a small portion of the vast island of Borneo in Southeast Asia. This off-the-travel-radar nation is famous for its Sultan and head of state, General Haji Sir Hassanal Bolkiah Mu'izzaddin Waddaulah.

Ship and mosque in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei (photo: vyngor, Pixabay).
Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei (photo: vyngor from Pixabay)

Although anyone would consider the entire island of Borneo to be rich with natural resources and abounding with fresh fruits of the earth, Brunei received an even more valuable worldwide resource: crude oil and natural gas.

It was just several days after attempting to climb Mount Kinabalu, in the Malaysian state of Sabah (on the Malaysian side of Borneo), that I decided to take the ferry to Brunei.

I was eager to observe a country that had been blessed with oil, and for once, the proceeds of the resource had been used to build the country and transform it into a wealthy economic nation.

Brunei Entrance Card.
Brunei Entrance Card

It took about half a day to travel from Kota Kinabalu to Brunei, a journey that involved a series of two ferries with a layover on the small Malaysian island of Labuan.

Before arriving at the ferry, I filled in the information on my entrance card, signing an intimidating red capital letter statement at the end reading, "DEATH FOR DRUG TRAFFICKERS UNDER BRUNEI LAW."

I was surprised as soon as I exited the ferry, expecting a typical Southeast Asian greeting with crowds of people and touts hustling to sell a ride in their cab, but hearing none of that.

Instead, a few taxi drivers were waiting around; none were pushy in attempting to persuade anyone, but they waited calmly for someone to ask for their services. I choose to wait for the bus to get to the center of Bandar Seri Begawan.

Streets of Brunei.
Streets of Brunei

The drive passed through ordinary Bruneian homes, and everything I observed seemed to be on an economic level many steps above the surrounding Southeast Asian countries.

Homes looked like they were Gardens of Eden, surrounded by neatly manicured tropical trees all blooming with fresh fruit.

The town was an interesting mix of people, with the majority of the population comprising ethnic Malays, Indians, and Chinese.

Although Bandar Seri Begawan is the capital and largest city of Brunei, it has a unique atmosphere, possibly the quietest and most peaceful capital in Asia.

The city was quite the opposite of a typical Asian city, lacking the roaring traffic, masses of humanity, and clouds of pollution. Instead, it was marked by pleasant greenery and quiet neighborhoods.

Drivers even halted out of nowhere to let humans cross the street (something considered sacrilegious in most of the world).

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque

One of the most iconic symbols of the city is the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, a truly magnificent structure covered in an Islamic dome of gold.

During the daylight sun, the gold blindingly shimmered, but as the sun began to set, the dome reflected an amazing display of color and set an Aladdin-like mood.

The awe-inspiring sunset scene would have been a prime atmosphere for gently floating through the air on a Persian carpet!

Kampong Ayer, Brunei
Kampong Ayer Water Village

For 20 Bruneian Dollars (1 Brunei Dollar = USD 0.80) we hired a boat for a tour of Kampong Ayer, a stilted water village that almost 40,000 Bruneians call home.

Many of the stilted homes above water were equipped with electricity, satellite dishes, internet, and our skipper even mentioned that many dwellers owned cars parked on land.

We sped through the neighborhood, passing by water schools, police stations, a fire station, medical clinics, and even an above-water Shell petrol station.

Related: National Dishes in Southeast Asia

Ambuyat
Ambuyat sago palm starch

A highlight of my visit to Brunei was the opportunity to try a traditional Bruneian dish called ambuyat, made from sago palm starch. The sticky substance is wrapped around a stick, and apparently, one is supposed to eat it without chewing (this was learned afterward).

Although I spent only a single day in Bandar Seri Begawan, the calm atmosphere, friendly people, unique ambiance, and serenity made my stay truly unforgettable.

5 Critical Questions to Ask Before Choosing a Volunteer Organization

Volunteering abroad

Are you interested in volunteering abroad? Bombarded with lots of different organizations claiming they offer the best deals?

It is not always best to rely on a cool name, and a brand new website may not necessarily guarantee an organization's credibility.

Whether you are going away for four weeks, four months, or even a whole year - here are five important questions to ask before choosing a volunteer organization and taking the trip of a lifetime.

Table of Contents

  • 1. How long has the organization been running?
  • 2. How long has the project been running?
  • 3. Has the organization been independently assessed, and do they have a responsible tourism policy?
  • 4. How do you make sure that the program is suitable for you?
  • 5. How will I contact my friends and family if I have an emergency during my program?

1. How long has the organization been running?

Taking a gap year or volunteering abroad has become increasingly popular.

All the cool kids are doing it, and there are a growing number of people taking trips in between jobs or as a total career break.

Due to this high demand, more and more organizations are becoming established in promoting volunteer abroad trips and eco-travel.

This is reflected in the seemingly endless organizations vying for your attention.  

However, one of the critical aspects of knowing if an organization is well run is finding out how long have they been running for.

When parting with your hard-earned cash, you want to be confident that the organization is reliable and in it for the long haul; they're not going to go bust and leave you out of pocket.

Scuba diving
PADI training may be included in some marine conservation programs

2. How long has the project been running?

If the project has been running for a while, the chances of them having a good working relationship with the locals is high.

Additionally, if a project is well established, it will have a much better chance of everything running smoothly, from the airport pickup to the accommodation you stay in; it should all be in place.

A good way of finding out if a project has been running for a while is by looking for feedback from past volunteers.

As well as feedback on independent travel websites, it's also worth looking at organizations' own Facebook page, where you can have a look at pictures uploaded by previous volunteers, which should give you a good idea of what it would be like out on the project you are interested in.

Other things to think about are nice freebies, such as will there be a complimentary airport pickup?

Are meals and accommodation included in the price?

Are there any other freebies thrown in, such as PADI training on marine conservation projects or a TEFL qualification in the teaching projects?

A fun day with elephants
A fun day with elephants

3. Has the organization been independently assessed, and do they have a responsible tourism policy?

You want to be traveling with an accredited and professional organization while you are in a country or countries you are not familiar with. 

Therefore, making sure the organization you choose has independent accreditation is crucial.

In the UK, the British Standard 8848 is given to organizations by the Young Explorers Trust and pulls together the expertise and good practice into a national standard for the safe management of overseas ventures.

Additionally, you also want to know that your organization is helping the local communities they work within.

There are many different types of volunteering organizations, and you want to ask questions such as are they a non-government organization (NGO)?

Are they non-profit organizations? Make sure you do your homework.

Travel is about giving something back, leaving a destination and host community in a better condition than when you found it, even if it simply means giving a smile to everyone you encounter.

By volunteering abroad, you should be able to make a real contribution to the lives of the communities you have visited via sustainable community development projects, teaching children, health care, or the conservation of wildlife, both terrestrial and marine.

4. How do you make sure that the program is suitable for you?

Choosing the appropriate project for you is another necessity. Will you be gaining qualifications to strengthen your CV? Will it give you relevant experience for a future job?

At Frontier you can choose a project that will give you a qualification when finishing your time abroad.

5. How will I contact my friends and family if I have an emergency during my program?

Not being in contact with your family for an extended period may seem like bliss to most of us.

No nagging parents telling you what to do or managers are giving you yet another deadline.

However, if an emergency arises, you want to ensure the volunteering organization has a 24-hour support line.

For example, with Frontier, no matter what the time difference is, an allocated staff member will be on standby to answer the emergency phone and ring you back if needed.

The next thing to decide is which country to visit?

I'll leave this one up to you. Good luck and happy traveling!

Oysters and Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima

Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima
Okonomiyaki in Hiroshima

Okonomiyaki is a savory Japanese pancake that's especially popular in Hiroshima.  

As I was already planning to visit the city's A-Bomb Dome and memorial peace park, tacking on a foodie adventure to try okonomiyaki in Hiroshima was a snap.

Using my Japan Rail Pass, I took a two and a half-hour bullet train ride from Kyoto, and arrived just in time for lunch.

I took one of the city's trams to an area of okonomiyaki restaurants recommended to me by some bloggers on Twitter.

I walked into the first restaurant I saw and took a seat at the counter facing the kitchen.

Traveling solo in Japan is especially fun for foodies because so many of the restaurants seem to have open kitchens.

Instead of playing on my Blackberry or trying not to seem bored, I can spend my time observing the chefs at work.

Sitting at the counter, I ate my okonomiyaki right off the griddle.
Sitting at the counter, I ate my okonomiyaki right off the grill.

A griddle ran the whole length of the counter, or maybe it was the customer counter that ran the entire length of the grill.  

Several line cooks were working in the kitchen, and each had responsibility for a specific stage in the assembly of the giant Japanese pancakes.

For 750 Yen (or $9), I ordered a standard preparation with noodles (like spaghetti), pork, egg, cabbage, and bean sprouts.

I love bean sprouts! The only other time I usually eat them is with Pad Thai.

My photos don't seem to capture the monumental size of okonomiyaki appropriately.

The finished product is served to customers at the counter, right on the grill, keeping the whole thing warm while you cut chunks off to eat.

Eventually, I did consume my entire serving, which was the fuel I needed to explore Hiroshima's peace park on a cold Winter's day.

A pair of massive Hiroshima oysters
A pair of massive Hiroshima oysters

A few hours later, after lots of photos and reflection, I returned to the same restaurant to try the oysters, another popular Hiroshima delicacy.

I became a fan of oysters in Arcachon Bay, France, a few years ago, but the ones I had then were small enough to slide down my throat in a single gulp.

The Hiroshima oysters were gigantic...far too big to swallow without chewing first.

I hesitated, but then squeezed some lemon juice on one and scooped it off the shell with a fork.  

Each oyster required several bites, and I was surprised to enjoy them despite the extra time they spent in my mouth (versus the smaller oysters you can easily swallow).

Hiroshima gets points for size, however fresh French oysters dripping with the saltwater win on flavor.

Exterior of the okonomiyaki restaurant
Exterior of the restaurant where I first tried okonomiyaki.

5 Keys to Maintaining Your Inner Peace on a Group Tour

The following is a guest post by Pete Mandra. If you’d like to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read our submission guidelines.

Male African lions in Kruger Park, South Africa.
Male African lions in Kruger Park, South Africa.

When I returned from my recent extended tour of southern Africa, friends and family pressed me to know what aspect of my trip brought on the most stress:

Was it tenting in the African bush, surrounded by wild animals? The risk of contracting a deadly, exotic disease? All that time away from home, separated from loved ones and all things familiar?

Nope, I told them. Not even close. Because I couldn’t think of a single, hungry African carnivore, a mysterious diseases whose symptoms still stumped brilliant scientists, or any amount of solitude that compared, at least to me, to the sometimes challenging dynamics of group travel.

Don’t get me wrong - signing on with a group travel tour, just as I had to visit southern Africa (and later Egypt and Jordan), is an effective way to navigate across a country while taking in its highlights. You not only eliminate the hassle of getting from Point A to Point B, but it’s generally much more cost effective than if you were to attempt it by yourself.

The challenge, though, arrives when your tour takes you through a less-developed country, where personal safety, and few diversions like museums and shopping, dictates the group spending time together for seemingly every waking moment. It is then that a strange, almost magical transformation occurs – you stop acting like a group and start acting more like a dysfunctional, slightly manic family, filled with just enough underlying tension to drive one another crazy. In Africa, we fought over food, relaxed every ambition imaginable a little too much for comfort, and almost purposefully got on each other’s nerves. Though I can’t share all of the sordid details here, suffice to say I did start to wonder, after that whole experience, how any of us could once again function in normal, everyday society.

Camping in Botswana
Camping in Botswana

OK – so I exaggerate a bit. Then why, you’re probably asking yourself, after my trying experience traveling with a group through Africa, did I participate in another such trip shortly afterwards through Egypt and Jordan?

Because Africa taught me what I refer to as essential ‘mental survival strategies’ for group travel, essential to enjoying your trip and dealing with the sometimes difficult group mentality.

The following, then, are my 5 tips for mentally ‘surviving’ a group travel tour:

Table of Contents

  • 1. Stay connected with family and friends back home.
  • 2. Grab alone time (when you can get it!).
  • 3. Zone out.
  • 4. Protect that personal space!
  • 5. Go with the flow.

1. Stay connected with family and friends back home.

Receiving an email, video chat, or just hearing the voice of a loved one has a way of bringing you back to reality, especially when you need a break from present company. And best of all, you can find an Internet café in even the most remote places in the world (though you may have to deal with a dial-up connection).

2. Grab alone time (when you can get it!).

There’s nothing wrong with retreating to your tent or room for a little bit if you need a break. Don’t think that just because others always hang out that you are required to, also.

3. Zone out.

Bring that music-loaded Ipod for those long road trips when you don’t want to spend another 4 hours (again) talking to your seat mate. Or be really devious and only pretend you’ve fallen asleep.

4. Protect that personal space!

In Africa, the seat you grabbed on the truck that first day was yours for the next six weeks. It sounds crazy, but on group tours, your instinct is to protect all space in that immediate vicinity as your own, so you don’t feel too crowded and have room for your gear. Only remove gear from the truck that you need for that particular moment, using the rest as a personal space holder.

5. Go with the flow.

Will the group annoy you at times? Absolutely! So expect that you may not get along with everyone, and accept that you’re personal freedom may seem compromised from the outset as you (often) follow rigid schedules and full days to take in all the sites. A mantra may help, too. Whenever I wanted to strangle someone, I took a deep breath and repeated to myself you’re on vacation…you’re on vacation. It usually did the trick.

Hopefully, after reading this you aren’t scared off if you were considering signing on with a group tour in a less-developed part of the world. Following my own advice on my Egypt and Jordan trip proved extremely helpful, so I’m confident, if you have any such concerns, these same strategies can work for you, too.

Group experience aside, I wouldn’t trade the enjoyable experience I had traveling through Africa for anything. We slept under star-filled skies in the middle of the desert, navigated through the hippos and crocodiles of the Zambezi River in canoes, and joined an armed military convoy in Zambia through a patch of land contested by rebel fighters– if that’s not living life, I don’t know what is!

________

About the Author: Pete Mandra is the author of Overland, a humorous travel narrative (‘Bill Bryson meets Generation X’) chronicling his budget, six-week ‘overland’ tour through Africa with his wife and a truckload of strangers.

Photos Credit: David Lee

Cost of Travel: Manila & The Philippines

Streets of Manila, Philippines
Streets of Manila, Philippines

The cost of travel in the Philippines is relatively cheap, with average South East Asian prices.

The most expensive part about traveling to the Philippines is the initial flight to get there, given its location, a chain of islands off the coast of the Asian subcontinent.

If you plan on visiting many destinations throughout the Philippines, fees can add up due to island hopping and plane flights.

If you wish to stay put and not try to hop around to too many islands, the price of daily living can be very affordable.

The Philippines uses the Philippine Peso: 1 USD = 51.15 Philippine Pesos (PHP) as of July 2019.

Table of Contents

  • Accommodation
  • Food
  • Nightlife / Drinking
  • Transportation
  • Sample Costs of Sites and Attractions

Accommodation

To be honest, I Couchsurfed and stayed at local Filipino homes for the majority of my 2-month stay in the Philippines.

That being said, there are plenty of options.

  • Dorm Beds: If you aim to save money, search for dorm beds which can be found from $2 - $5 (100-250 PHP) but are not always available.
  • Private Double Rooms:  More common than dorm beds are private rooms with a few beds in them; lowest private double rooms go for $5 - $10 (250-500 PHP)
  • Step Up (Mid-Range): $15 - $30 will get you a nice hotel room (750-1,500 PHP)
  • I stayed in small guesthouses and bungalows in Banaue, Batad, and Mayoyao rice terraces for $5 - $7 (250 - 350 PHP) per night by myself
  • I splurged for a very nice guest house dorm bed in Sagada and paid $6 (300 PHP) per night

Accommodation can get more expensive on islands popular with tourists, like Boracay.

Seafood Dampa in Manila
Seafood Dampa in Manila

Food

There are plenty of street snacks and edibles that are super cheap. 

However, most meals, which include rice and side dishes run from about $1 - $3 (50 - 150 PHP) on the street.

  • Manila street dining - Jolly Jeep street food: $1 - $3 (50 - 150 PHP)
  • Meals at fast food chains: $2 - $5 (100 - 250 PHP)
  • Sitting down for nicer meals at restaurants can cost anywhere from $5 - $14 (250 - 716 PHP) per meal.  I splurged on a wonderful Korean meat barbecue dinner that came out to be $12 (615 PHP) per person after we were all overly stuffed.
  • Giant seafood extravaganza is known as seafood dampa (order fresh seafood and they cook it right then and there): about $7 (300 PHP) per person

Nightlife / Drinking

As the home of San Miguel beer, the Philippines (just like Vietnam) has some super cheap beer.

  • Beers from convenience stores / local bars: $0.50 - $1 (25 - 50 PHP)
  • San Miguel beer from bars: $0.75 - $1.25 (35 - 65 PHP), often a deal of 6 for $5 (250 PHP)
  • Tanduay is the most common local liquor: 1 liter for $1.25 - $2 (65 - 100 PHP)
  • Drinks at fancier clubs and bars: $2 - $5 (100 - 250 PHP)
  • Some nicer nightclubs charge a cover: $5 - $12 (250 - 600 PHP)

Jeepney in the Philippines
Jeepney in the Philippines

Transportation

Within Manila

  • Metro: $0.25 - $0.50 (10 - 25 PHP) per ride
  • Bus: $0.25 - $0.50 (10 - 25 PHP) per ride
  • Jeepneys: Usually $0.25 - $0.50 (15 - 25 PHP) depending on where you are going
  • Taxi: $0.70 (35 PHP) startup fare and then increases from there.  Make sure to confirm the driver uses the meter.
  • Tricycle: Small motorcycle constructed vehicles that run around the neighborhoods of Manila and small towns, should cost $0.25 - $0.50 (15 - 25 PHP) depending on the distance.

Outside of Manila

  • Flight: I took a very cheap one-way flight with Zest Airlines from Manila to the island of Palawan for $11 (550 PHP), coming back to Manila I purchased a flight 1 day ahead of departure for $30 (1,500 PHP). Other airlines to check out for flights to other island are Cebu Pacific, Air Philippines, or SE Air.
  • Bus: A very decent overnight bus from Manila to a city called Naga City in the region of Bicol cost $20 (1,000 PHP). I also took an overnight bus from Manila to the rice terrace town of Banaue for $10 (500 PHP).
  • 2-hour bus ride from Manila to Tagaytay to see the world's smallest active volcano: $3 (150 PHP)
  • 6-hour bus ride from Manila to Baguio City: $8 (400 PHP)

Sample Costs of Sites and Attractions

Manila

  • Manila Ocean Park: $9 (450 PHP)
  • Walking around old colonial town Intramuros: Free
  • Fort Santiago: $1.75 (88 PHP)
  • Ayala Museum: $8 (400 PHP)
  • Night of Karaoke: $7 (350 PHP)

Coron Island, Palawan, Philippines
Coron Island, Palawan, Philippines

Outside of Manila

  • Hot Spring in Bicol - $5 (250 PHP)
  • All day and night personal guide hiking through the mountains of Ifugao region of the Philippines (I was by myself) - $8 (400 PHP)
  • Guide for hiking through a cave in Sagada: $5 - $9 (250 - 450 PHP) per person
  • Round trip from Manila to the top of Mount Taal - the world's smallest active volcano: around $16 (800 PHP)
  • Renting a boat and crew to cruise around Coron island (above): $12 - $23 (600 - 1,150 PHP) per person depending on how many people are with you

Traveling and attractions around the islands of the Philippines often cater to groups and for this reason, it's normally cheaper to have a few friends to split costs with.

When taking into account the cost of travel in the Philippines, don't forget about the $17 (850 PHP) tax when leaving the country!

Top 9 Malaysian Foods To Die For

Roti Canai
Roti Canai

Malaysia is hands down one of the finest destinations in the world to satisfy any culinary yearning.

The dynamic mixture of Malay, Chinese, and Indian cuisines are just a few of the popular influencing flavors. 

Throughout my stay in Malaysia and several recurring visits to Kuala Lumpur, I developed an acute addiction to the powerful tastes of Malaysian foods.

Table of Contents

  • 1. Roti Canai
  • 2. Chili Pan Mee
  • 3. Malaysian Satay
  • 4. Grilled Stingray
  • 5. Char Kuay Teow
  • 6. Nasi Campur
  • 7. Nasi Kandar
  • 8. Nasi Lemak
  • 9. Curry Laksa

1. Roti Canai

A roti canai is made from thin dough, cooked into a pasty-like bread, and dipped into a fragrant curry sauce for a burst of tastiness.

A roti canai makes a delicious treat any time of the day, but it is commonly eaten for breakfast along with a cup of milky tea (teh tarik).

Chili Pan Mee
Chili Pan Mee

2. Chili Pan Mee

It all begins with a foundation of freshly cooked noodles followed by a handful of ingredients like minced pork, fried garlic, a runny half-poached egg, and a sprinkle of green onions.

The signature dried flaky chili sauce is what truly makes chili pan mee one of the great Malaysian dishes, a flavor so delectable that it's impossible not to boast about. 

Super Kitchen chili pan mee is one of the best Kuala Lumpur restaurants to eat the dish!

Satay is a common Malaysian food
Satay (photo: rim moto, Pixabay)

3. Malaysian Satay

Usually made with beef or chicken, Malay satays are mildly marinated and lightly barbecued.

They are enjoyed best with a tangy peanut sauce that melts in your mouth.

Be careful. Before you know it, you will have eaten countless skewers without even noticing!

Malaysian Grilled Stingray
Grilled Stingray

4. Grilled Stingray

It's a fish that can be fatal in the waters but is nothing short of pure pleasure when it reaches the grill.

Wrapped in a banana leaf with a combination of spices, the stingray sops up all of its fish juices and retains the brilliant taste of the marinade.

5. Char Kuay Teow

Char kuay teow is a wonderful mixture of stir-fried rice noodles and a choice of meat or seafood and is flavored with dark soy sauce.

Often an egg is added to the dish, coating the noodles with an even more brilliant taste!

Nasi Campur
Nasi Campur

6. Nasi Campur

There are a few things that I get more excited about in life than Nasi Campur.

It's an all-out feasting competition involving a few of the most powerfully flavorful dishes in the Malay food repertoire.

You are given a plate of plain rice and instructed to pile on whatever pre-made dish suits your liking.

I tend to go straight for the chili fish, spiced eggplant, jack fruit coconut curry, and fried okra!

Nasi Kandar
Nasi Kandar

7. Nasi Kandar

Especially famous in Penang, Malaysia, Nasi Kandar is a dish consisting of rice and different fried meats or Indian-style curries.

There's usually an option to order other Malay-Indian delicacies like daal, naan, biryani, or tandoori chicken to accompany a nasi kandar feast!

8. Nasi Lemak

Known as one of the national dishes of Malaysia, nasi lemak is comfort food and a dish to truly look forward to.

The dish has several variations: the traditional triangle of rice wrapped in a banana leaf (kind of as a snack) and a meal version served on a plate.

The plate begins with a scoop of fragrant coconut rice and is accompanied by sides such as dried anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, fried chicken, roasted peanuts, and another Malaysian chili sauce to die for!

Malaysian Laksa
Curry Laksa

9. Curry Laksa

All the flavors one could dream of are represented in a single bowl of luscious Malaysian curry laksa.

The version I love the most starts with thin rice noodles covered in rich coconut cream curry.

The list of ambrosial toppings includes shredded chicken, shrimp, fried tofu, a handful of cilantro, and finally, a juicy squeeze of lime!

This is merely a sample of the meals within the staggering array of Malaysian cuisine. 

There's so much food to explore in Malaysia from Penang to Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur to Malacca!

Pin for Later

malaysian foods

Japanese Onsen: A Cultural Experience

Along with visiting the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, spending time at a Japanese onsen (public bath, hot spring) was a popular recommendation when I asked for advice on Twitter and Facebook before my trip.

I quickly discovered through this feedback that the Japanese traditionally do not wear bathing suits when using the onsens.  

Finding this out in advance gave me time to mentally prepare for my first public bathing experience.

Onsen in Kyoto
The entrance to a popular onsen in Kyoto.

While Couchsurfing in Tokyo, I met an Australian who had spent time snowboarding in the northern mountains, and he talked fondly of his visits to the onsens, painting a picture of hanging out in the hot springs as snow gently fell from the sky, and having snowball fights.  

He said you get used to the nudity fast. I chose to believe him.

Onsens are everywhere. However, Tokyo seemed too urban an environment for the experience, and while Nagano had a better feel, my day trip to see the snow monkeys there was so rushed I decided to hold off.

As in the United States, early February is still the middle of winter in Japan, and the temps in Kyoto during my stay were hovering around the freezing mark, if not colder at night.  

I asked for an onsen recommendation at my hostel and was given a map (as usual, because whenever you ask for directions in Japan, you're also given a map).

I picked my second afternoon in Kyoto to take a break from sightseeing and delve into the Japanese tradition of public bathing.

After an exhausting journey across the city, I arrived at the doorstep of the suggested Japanese onsen, which I was told was a popular one.  

Because if I'm going to have this cultural experience, I want it to at least be at a happening place.

Inside the reception area, I removed my shoes and put on the provided sandals.

The woman behind the counter looked at me as if I knew what I was doing, but I didn't, and she eventually guided me toward the entrance of the men's locker room.

I was previously informed by my Couchsurfing hosts that onsens in urban areas are usually segregated by gender.

At the same time, in the countryside, both men and women are more likely to share the same baths.

The locker room featured plenty of lockers (duh!) and a camera crew, to my surprise.  

I felt a bit concerned as I scoped out the two female crew members and the massive video camera.

It appeared they were breaking down the equipment after getting whatever footage they needed.

The women seemed to avoid eye contact with me purposefully, so I decided they were doing their best not to pay attention.

I removed my three layers of shirts, hoody, jeans, socks, and boxers.

I swiftly walked into a small hallway connecting the locker room with the bathing area. There were a few sinks, but I couldn't figure out what you'd do in there.  

I passed through the second door and entered the bathing room.

It was 2 or 3 pm on a weekday afternoon, and there were at least a half dozen men in there, sans clothes. I was too, but I tried not to think about that.

Since I bought a small bar of soap from the receptionist, I sat on one of the little (and I mean it was no more than 12 inches tall) plastic stools positioned under shower heads that were no more than four feet high.

If I felt awkward standing, I felt ridiculous sitting on that little stool, trying to wash under a tiny shower. Nobody warned me about this part.

As I washed, I tried to scope out what the other guys were doing to figure out the protocol.

Some of the Japanese men seemed to spend ten minutes under the shower.

I cut that step short and then moved to one of the pools of water, which was too hot.  

I then tried a larger pool, which was still hot but more bearable; a few older men were hanging out.

Slipping into the water, I read a sign posted on the wall that indicated the water was electrically heated (i.e., not supplied from a natural thermal spring).

It turns out I'm going through the whole routine without the payoff provided by naturally-occurring spring water. Was this all for nothing?

I tried to make the best of the jacuzzi-like environment, but I found it hard to relax.  

After a few minutes in the pool, I got out and showered awkwardly again before making my exit back to the locker room.

The camera crew was long gone, and I quickly dressed as it was cold once you stepped outside the steamy room.

Walking outside, I felt surprisingly refreshed. But I surely would've felt the same way had I taken a private shower at my hostel.

I couldn't help but feel my first Japanese onsen experience was lacking, and with so little time in Japan, I'd be leaving the country before I'd have a second chance.

Photo Favorite: Chameleon Crossing

Why did the chameleon cross the road?

To give all the tourists on a Kruger Park safari a great photo-op!

Chameleon
A chameleon crossing the road in Kruger Park, South Africa.

How to Stay Beautiful While Traveling

Pre-trip Me
Pre-trip Me

I never imagined that on my first backpacking trip, I would come face to face with ‘the uglies’.

While I’m not particularly vain, my beauty style is that of Audrey Hepburn, simple and classic. Traveling around the world for a year and living out of a backpack, I threw my beauty style out the window.

I cut my hair too short (I’m Colombian and have unruly hair), dyed my hair bleach blond (it turned orange first), and tortured my skin with my sporadic traveling routine.

Plus I was traveling with guys who could care less about their image. I found myself plagued with the dichotomy of not caring and feeling pretty. What I learned is that with a few adjustments, I can have the best of both two worlds.

It’s important to explore the clear and yet unclear difference between not caring and feeling beautiful on the road.

On the one side, the nomadic lifestyle lends itself to a carefree mentality about everything. That makes it easy to disregard taking care of yourself and your image.

At the core though, putting your best foot forward everyday helps you to stay centered and true to the person you were before you went on the backpacking adventure.

Case in Point

For some reason, I decided that having short hair would be so much easier to manage on the road. I went from long, voluptuous brown hair to a short boy cut. It also didn’t help meeting hairstylists in every hostel.

All of them wanted to ‘help’ me and my unruly hair. I let them cut, butcher and dye my hair all sorts of crazy colors. I used gel to keep it in control, bobby pins to style it and hats to hide the crazy volume.

After 6 months of this self-inflicted torture, I decided that I would never let another person touch my hair to ‘fix’ it. I look at the pictures from the first 6 months and can’t tell if I’m looking at an Einstein look alike sometimes. I hated taking pictures because my hair was so crazy. I learned that for me, my hair is the centerpiece of my persona.

When I travel now for extended periods, I take care of my hair and treat it with respect. My pictures are 10 times better because of the lessons I learned on my backpacking trip.

No matter how much maintenance you put into your beauty routine, everyone loves to feel confident with their own looks. The best way to think about staying beautiful while traveling is by knowing your three most important categories: skin, hair and style.

Remember that beauty extends beyond gender. These tips on how to stay beautiful while traveling are applicable to both men and women.

Skin

Late nights drinking, skimping on showers, sleeping in hostels, eating whatever you can. Sound familiar?

All these things compound and show up on your skin. Your skin may loose its natural glow; you may get acne; you may have dark undereye circles. Regardless of what manifests, treating your skin like a ragdoll is a surefire way to destroy your skin confidence.

These are some of the best ways to help your skin radiant on the road:

  • Drink water. Think of your skin like a plant. Watering your plant will keep it growing and healthy.
  • Wash your face at night. You may not think that you're dirty, but your face is a dirt sponge. Our skin regenerates itself at night. If you feel too lazy to wash your face (it will happen), use baby wipes.
  • If you start to break out, resist the urge to play with it. Your face is not a science experiment. Let the break out take its course.
  • Wear sunscreen. This applies to your face and your body. Your older self will be eternally grateful if you protect it.

Hair

Learn from my experience. Don’t let random people tell you about your hair!

Here are some tricks of the trade:

  • Bobby pins, gel, mousse, hats, bandanas. All these tools will help keep your hair looking nice and well groomed.
  • Dry shampoo or baby powder are your best friends. If you don't have enough time to wash your hair, both of these are lifesavers. They soak up the oil in your hair so it doesn't look dirty.
  • The upkeep of experimenting is difficult while backpacking. Traveling opens up your eyes to new hairdos. The temptation to try one of them is huge. Just remember that because you're traveling, you won't be able to maintain the style like you would at home. Experiment wisely.

Style

Your style is representative of you. It’s easy to forget that while you’re traveling. It’s as if your style mindset shifts from being authentic to being practical. The great news is that you can marry the two.

Here are some tips to keep your style rocking:

  • Wear things that make you feel confident. You will radiate with confidence if you take care of yourself. You're clothes are a tangible indication of how you feel.
  • Try a 'practical with accessories' style. There are some cases where you have to wear certain clothes that won't necessarily be flattering or your signature pieces. In that instance, add one piece of clothing or accessory that demonstrates your authentic style. That is your reminder of confidence.

Beauty is a way of thinking. While these tips and tools are superficial, remember that your beauty will always start on the inside.

It’s also important to embrace your ‘uglies’ as well. Sometimes you won’t be able to help how you look because of your circumstances. That’s ok. What matters is how you present yourself to yourself everyday.

So go ahead…impress that person in the mirror.

Kushikatsu in Kyoto

Kushikatsu
Kushikatsu

Kushikatsu is a popular and traditional Japanese dish comprised of battered and deep fried foods ("katsu") served on skewers ("kushi").

I stumbled across a restaurant, Copain, that specializes in Kushikatsu in Kyoto while I was walking along the same alley where I enjoyed the best sushi of my life the night before.

Inside the restaurant
Inside the restaurant, with the near chef searing something delicious no doubt.

After taking a peek inside to make sure there were other people dining there, I walked in and took a seat at the counter facing the kitchen.

I was becoming accustomed to sitting in front of the chefs while they work in their open kitchens, and I kind of liked it, especially since I was mostly eating alone during my time in Japan.

I ordered the 12-piece omakase course (chef's selection).

The total cost for this option was 3,150 Yen ($38), and I had a feeling it'd be money well spent to discover a new style of Japanese cuisine.  

Before we got started, I also ordered a Suntory draft beer.

Dipping sauces
Dipping sauces (from left): fish and seaweed soup, Worcester sauce, Himalayan rock salt, fresh lemon juice.

The chef nearest to me presented a plate with chopsticks and four dipping sauces. 

Each time a course would be given, the chef would advise me which sauce would compliment it best.

[Editor's Note: Unfortunately, I lost my detailed notes of the ingredients comprising each course, so I can only offer a general recollection.]

Simple salad
Course 3 was a simple salad.

The first course was a glass of tea, which was followed by a giant prawn, and a simple yet colorful salad of cabbage and tomatoes.  

This was followed by 5 Kushikatsu featuring various ingredients.

The central element was deep-fried, however, there was almost always a sauce or secondary element on top as well, plus the various dipping sauces.

Tofu soup was course number 9, followed by three more breaded delights.  

You might think a 12-course meal of deep fried food bits is a little unhealthy, however, the sign outside the restaurant explaining the cuisine also indicated that they have a healthier house batter in use.  

I remember it tasting light, for whatever that was worth to my cardio system at the time.

Foie gras
Course 13 included a small piece of foie gras.

Upon finishing my last course, I noticed a guy across the counter from me was being served up an exceptionally good-looking course.  

I asked the chef about it, and he said it was a [blank] topped with foie gras.  

I knew I had to have it, and ordered one for myself.  

It turned out to be one of the most picturesque courses, as well as one of my favorites from a flavor perspective.

To see photos of every course, watch the slideshow below. Bon appetite!

6 Thrilling Adventure Activities in Las Vegas

When it comes to having fun, there's no shortage of things to do in and around Las Vegas. If you're an adrenaline junkie at heart, consider the following adventure activities in Las Vegas when planning your next trip.

Stratosphere Hotel and Casino
Stratosphere Hotel and Casino (photo courtesy of the hotel)

Table of Contents

  • Vegas Adventures
    • 1. Roller Coasters and Other Amusement Park Rides
    • 2. Adult-Only Roller Skating
    • 3. Trampoline Fun
    • 4. Skydiving
    • 5. Paintball
    • 6. Adrenaline for Charity

Vegas Adventures

1. Roller Coasters and Other Amusement Park Rides

We're not talking about the highest drop or the fastest ride in America, but the novelty of Las Vegas' amusement park rides appeals to many people.

At the Adventuredome Theme Park in Circus Circus, you'll find the world's only indoor double-loop, double-corkscrew roller coaster, which reaches speeds up to 55 MPH.

The roller coaster at New York, New York, drops passengers 144 feet and hits 67 MPH while flying by the Vegas version of the Statue of Liberty and Empire State Building.

The Stratosphere offers four rides on top of its freestanding observation tower, which is the tallest of its kind in the United States.

Its three primary attractions are Big Shot, which shoots passengers 160 feet into the air at 45 MPH; Insanity, which spins riders over open air at up to three Gs; and X-Scream, which drops riders 27 feet over the edge of the hotel.

Stratosphere's latest attraction addition is the SkyJump, the highest controlled free fall in the world, high above the Las Vegas Strip.

2. Adult-Only Roller Skating

Though not held on any specific schedule, you can occasionally find adult-only roller skating parties at Las Vegas nightclubs. Rain Nightclub is the most common venue for retro roller skating, though some of the city's roller skating centers also hold adult-only nights.

3. Trampoline Fun

Get your jump on at one of the trampoline parks in Las Vegas. This is one of the few thrill activities that is friendly for both kids and adults, so it is particularly popular with families.

At these trampoline centers, everyone can have their little piece of Cirque du Soleil fun. The centers feature floors and walls that allow people to bounce freely. Check schedules in advance for special events such as dodgeball games.

4. Skydiving

Many people want to live the thrill in Sin City, and for that reason, several skydiving operators in Las Vegas specialize in first-time jumpers.

No experience is necessary to get your heart pumping as you leap from a plane and enjoy the awesome views of the Hoover Dam, Lake Mead, the Colorado River, and the Valley of Fire.

If you're not ready to jump from a plane, consider indoor skydiving instead. This simulated version of the real thing is similar to skydiving, with the addition of a mesh trampoline floor and foam-padded walls.

5. Paintball

The ideal weather conditions in Las Vegas mean that people can play all year long, and that means paintball is a 12-month activity.

Several paintball centers are located around Sin City, many of which offer lots of fields, obstacles, and scenarios. And, because there are so many options, playing paintball in Las Vegas won't set you back a ton of money.

6. Adrenaline for Charity

Though you'll pay for a thrill in Las Vegas, there are a few charitable adventures that ensure your money goes toward a good cause.

For example, the Special Olympics raised well more than $100,000 in 2010 when people collected contributions to rappel off of the Rio Hotel (a minimum of $1,000 in contributions was required to participate).

The SkyJump at the Stratosphere, which people can pay for as a thrill ride now, has been used as a charity event for children's hospitals in the past, and there are also philanthropic events that allow people to walk or run up the 1,455 stairs in the hotel as well.

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About the Author: JoAnna Haugen lives and plays in Las Vegas. She writes the popular Las Vegas travel guide, WhyGo Las Vegas, which offers information on where to stay and what to do in Sin City. Follow her on Twitter for updates about Las Vegas.

Exploring the Historic Temples of Yogyakarta, Indonesia

Borobudur Temple, Java, Indonesia
Borobudur Temple, Java, Indonesia

Yogyakarta (pronounced Jogjakarta and nicknamed Jogja) is a pleasant city located centrally on Indonesia's most populous island of Java.

From the smog-choked megalopolis of Jakarta, Jogja was a literal breath of fresh air. 

The town had an entirely different feel to it, a charm that seemed to make anyone smile as a result of the attractive atmosphere.

I set out to Yogyakarta, not exactly knowing what to expect but eager to explore and looking forward to the wealth of historical and adventurous sites in the region.

 

It was dawn when our train pulled into the station; there was a crowd awaiting the train's arrival. 

Despite the touts and bicycle taxis that were there to hustle customers to their particular guest house, they were unobtrusive and not nearly as pushy as their counterparts in Jakarta.

I avoided the interaction, knowing that it was just a short distance to a selection of decent guesthouses just down the road. 

Along the walk, I decided it would be a great idea to grab a bite to eat.  

I settled for what I later found out was a delicacy in Yogyakarta: Soto Ayam (chicken and noodles in a soup).

Yogyakarta makes a great jump-off city to several staggering historical attractions in the area.

Borobudur at Night
Borobudur at Night

The two largest and most significant temple complexes located near Jogja are Borobudur and Prambanan.

The entire scene of Borobudur was breathtaking, an ancient historical site with intricate details and marked by acute construction. 

I visited the temple twice, the first time at night. 

Amidst the dark surroundings, Borobudur was illuminated with bright lights reminiscent of an ancient fortress.

Borobudur Temple
Borobudur Temple, Java, Indonesia

I returned the following day to see Borobudur in the daylight. 

The temple complex consists of a series of levels and platforms stacked on top of each other with stone reliefs carved into the outer walls.  

In theory, a Buddhist pilgrim is supposed to walk around each temple level to follow all the narrative relief panels. 

Completing this spiritual walk is symbolic of the path of enlightenment.

Prambanan Temple
Prambanan Temple

The temple complex of Prambanan looked like a series of rockets from a distance, waiting to blast off from the ground like space shuttles. 

As I walked closer, I could see the fine details, the jagged ancient stones that were placed thoughtfully throughout the entirety of the temple structure, similar to the complex of Angkor Wat. 

Walking around Prambanan, I was stunned by this architectural wonder, a picturesque masterpiece of human construction.

Prambanan Temple
Prambanan Temple

Constructed in the 9th century, Prambanan was built in honor of the most important trinity of Hindu deities: Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. 

The tallest and most impressive steeple within the complex is the Shiva temple.

Borobodur and Prambanan are the two most grandeur and most visited sites near Jogja.

Still, there are a host of other temples and ancient buildings spread all around the outskirts of the city that are also very impressive.

Indonesia Temple
Plaosan Temple

Along with a few local Indonesian friends and aboard a trusty motorbike, we were able to visit several other temples, including Candi Mendut, Candi Pawon, Sambisari Temple, and the highly impressive Plaosan Temple.

The charming, warm atmosphere paired with world-renowned historical temples makes Yogyakarta one of the most interesting cities to visit in Indonesia. 

Even the least known temples were impressively constructed and incredible to see!

How To Survive a 12-Hour Journey

I love traveling. I love meeting new people, seeing new places, and exploring new cultures. The bad thing about traveling is...well, the traveling part. I've had more than my fair share of 12-hour, 24-hour, and 36-hour journeys. They are usually a mixture of buses, coaches, ferries, trains, taxis, and planes, and every time, I pick up a few extra tips to make it slightly more bearable. What follows are my tips for surviving a long journey.

Table of Contents

  • 10 Travel Tips
    • 1. Make Friends With Your Fellow Passengers
    • 2. Sit At the Front
    • 3. Entertainment Options
    • 4. Be Productive
    • 5. Buy an Inflatable Cushion
    • 6. Take a Jumper or Sarong
    • 7. Take Healthy Snacks
    • 8. Exercise
    • 9. Safety
    • 10. Take Baby Wipes

10 Travel Tips

A Malaysian Airlines jumbo jet
A Malaysian Airlines jumbo jet.

1. Make Friends With Your Fellow Passengers

If anything makes time go faster, it's chatting with fellow travelers and swapping travel tales and tips. Or even better, find a local who can offer some local advice.

2. Sit At the Front

I still have a teenage instinct that kicks in whenever I get on a bus, and it pulls me towards the back seat like a magnet. The 'cool kids' may have sat on the back seat in school, but during a long journey, you're much better off at the front. There's nearly always more legroom, there's less chance you'll get travel sick, you get a better view, and you'll be first off the bus and first in the queue for the toilet. Check out Seat Guru for the best seat on a plane.

3. Entertainment Options

Having a laptop expands your options massively. As long as you have a decent battery life you can watch movies and play games (with headphones!) for more than half your journey. If you don't have a laptop, stick to a good old fashioned book, crosswords, puzzles, papers, magazines.

A pack of cards can keep you entertained for hours and attract other travelers (see point 1). If you're the trusting type, swap iPods with other travelers for some new tunes. And I don't care how old you are; Eye Spy never fails to entertain for at least half an hour. You can play this with anyone of any age, and it can be a fun way to learn the language.

4. Be Productive

A long journey can often feel like a waste of a day unless you use your time wisely and do some of those tasks you've been putting off. Write some postcards or letters, learn some local phrases, organize your photos and delete the rubbish ones, write in your journal, and if you write a blog, take the chance to write some posts in advance. You can also grab a guidebook and plan what you want to do in your new destination.

Overnight train in Vietnam
An overnight train through Vietnam.

5. Buy an Inflatable Cushion

If you plan to catch up on some sleep during the journey, a cushion is a must, not only for comfort but also to avoid resting your head on the random person next to you. Those U-shaped cushions are great for stopping your head from lolling around like a puppet, but I prefer a rectangular one, as it doubles as a bum cushion during those long journeys on bumpy roads!

6. Take a Jumper or Sarong

If it's hot outside, you may be lucky enough to have an air-conditioned vehicle, which can get chilly after a few hours. If not, you can roll it up and use it as a cushion.

7. Take Healthy Snacks

You'll want a goodie bag full of snacks for your trip, but try to avoid sweet or salty snacks. They may be tasty and convenient, but they'll leave you dehydrated, and a sugar rush is the last thing you need whilst in a cramped space. Dried fruit, fresh fruit, and water are your best bets.

8. Exercise

Yes, do those exercises they always tell you to do on an airplane and take a little walk as often as possible. You'll avoid DVT (Deep Vein Thrombosis), and it'll perk you up a little bit.

9. Safety

Keep your valuables close and beware that theft on buses is common. If your bag is small enough, use it as a pillow while you sleep and keep your passport and money in a money belt around your waist.

10. Take Baby Wipes

Whenever I pull out a pack of baby wipes, I always hand them out to all the other travelers on the bus. They'll quickly freshen you up and make you feel more human.

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About the Author: Monica Stott caught the travel bug when she was just ten years old and wrote this while on a two-year trip around the world.

The Cost of Travel in Hanoi, Vietnam

It's a city that will entice your every sense, overwhelm you with amusing and exciting sites, and stuff you with fabulous cuisine. Hanoi, Vietnam, has a wealth of entertainment; luckily, most things are affordable for a budget traveler.  

Hanoi Vietnam
Hanoi, Vietnam

The currency in Vietnam is the Vietnamese Dong (VND), which is equivalent to 1 USD at 23.3 VND. Based on my experience, here is the cost of travel in Vietnam.

Table of Contents

  • Travel Costs
    • Accommodation
    • Food
    • Drinking Alcohol
    • Transportation
    • Sites and Attractions
    • Halong Bay

Travel Costs

Accommodation

The range of accommodation options in Hanoi is nearly limitless. Many people stay somewhere within the Old Quarter portion of the city, close to many famous sites and jammed with traffic, people, and street food. 

There is no shortage of hotels, guest houses, and hostels in the Old Quarter. As with much of Asia, guest houses are usually arranged in double rooms, making it most affordable to room up with a partner. 

The cheapest room with two beds in Hanoi costs about $6-$10 per night (140,000-233,000 VND).

Dorm beds can be found for around $5 (117,000 VND) per night. If you increase the budget, you can use any decent room with air conditioning (for the summer) for about $12-$15 per night for two. 

One more baby step up the budget, and you stay in near-luxury hotels for $20 (465,000 VND) per night.

Food

Those who derive tremendous excitement from food (like me) will be thrilled by the variety and affordability of Hanoi street food. 

Most street stall meals average $1-$2 (23,000 - 46,000 VND) per dish, though portions aren't overly large. 

Hanoi Street Food
Street Food in Hanoi

If you are a big eater, you might need 2 or 3 street meals to fill up, but that might only cost $2-$3.

For Vietnamese sit-down restaurants (off the street side), expect to pay anywhere from $3 - $8 (69,000 - 186,000) per person. 

One night in Hanoi, I indulged at one of the town's fancier, more fashionable Italian restaurants and spent about $8 (186,000 VND).

One of the pleasures of visiting Vietnam is enjoying its incredible coffee. A standard cup of coffee at any typical coffee shop costs much less than $1 (23,000 VND) and is traditionally served with a pot of tea!

A big bottle of water - $0.50 (12,000 VND)

Beer Ha Noi
Beer Ha Noi

Drinking Alcohol

Those who enjoy beer will rejoice in Vietnam for several reasons.

  • The price for a single bottle/can of beer is about $0.50 - $1 (12,000 - 23,000 VND)
  • Draft beer by the cup is super cheap - Most of the time, no more than $0.40 (10,000 VND) per cup.
  • Locals enjoy drinking on the side of the streets of Hanoi and will frequently invite you for a few drinks with them - free of charge.
  • Drinking at bars/clubs may cost anywhere from $1 to $2 (20,000 - 50,000 VND) per drink. Some clubs charge a cover on certain nights.

Transportation

Taxis in Hanoi are notorious for ripping customers off and making threats to get more money; everyone seems to have a story. When I was in Hanoi, I avoided taxis. 

Buses are incredibly affordable, costing less than $0.25 (4,000 VND) per ride, and they go all around the city.

For those who join Hanoi's motorcycle madness, motorbikes can be rented for about $5 (120,000 VND) daily, though long-term backpackers may prefer to buy a motorbike in Hanoi before heading south.

Buses usually cost about $1.50 (37,000 VND) per hour for traveling throughout Vietnam, depending on where you are headed. 

Examples: 10-hour bus ride = $15. It's a popular way to travel in Vietnam. The trip from Hanoi to the town of Hue (central Vietnam) costs around $22 (512,000 VND).

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Sites and Attractions

  • Famous Water Puppet Show - $3 (70,000 VND)
  • Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum - Free
  • Ho Chi Minh Museum - $0.75 (17,000 VND)
  • Temple of Literature - $0.50 (12,000 VND)
  • Ngoc Son Temple - $0.50 (12,000 VND)
  • Museum of Fine Art - $1 (23,000 VND)
  • Long Bien Market - Free

Halong Bay

It will seem like everyone in Hanoi is trying to sell you a Halong Bay tour. There are so many tour agencies, and I don't think anyone knows precisely how the complex outsourcing system works. 

It's often easiest to see what your hotel/guest house offers and pay a tiny commission for them to book it for you. 

The most popular Halong Bay trip is all-inclusive for two days and one night and usually costs around $30 - $40 (700,000 - 1 million VND) per person; however, there are all sorts of price ranges.

From a traveler's standpoint, spending time in Hanoi or elsewhere in Vietnam is quite affordable. 

After visiting a few attractions, relax and enjoy the bustle of the city by sitting on the street and sipping coffee and tea (or beer) like the locals!

I'm Moving to Chiang Mai

Muay Thai training
Before there was salsa dancing in Medellin, there was muay-thai training in Chiang Mai.

I've had a great run in Medellin, Colombia the last few years, but truth be told, I miss a lot of things about Thailand.

The flavorful curries, the Buddhism, the preponderance of coconuts.

Thailand has long been a good choice for digital nomads, such as Cody McKibben of Thrilling Heroics, who I recently interviewed for Travel Blog Success.

Reliable internet access, delicious food, and gorgeous islands and beaches to hang out at in the south make its appeal all but universal.

Machine gun
I shot my first machine gun, a modified M-16, in Chiang Mai.

Over the last few months, travel bloggers have set up shop in the northern city of Chiang Mai, which I visited for a week back in 2008.

Jodi from Legal Nomads is there, and she's rooming with Shannon from A Little Adrift. Those two alone would be worth the trip. Add Wes Nations of Johnny Vagabond, and the many others stopping through town, and well, it seems like the place to be right now for travel bloggers.

So in August, when it comes time to leave Medellin yet again, instead of traveling the rest of South America as originally planned, I'm going to fly to Bangkok (probably stopping on an exotic, South Pacific island or two along the way) and head for Chiang Mai.

Being based in Southeast Asia, I'll be able to visit Burma which I purposefully skipped the first time around, as well as see more of Malaysia, Indonesia, and maybe I'll even get over to the Philippines for some island hopping.

As always, I hope you'll join me for these new adventures.

__________

Editor's Note:  Happy April Fool's Day!

Tsukiji Fish Market

Map of Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo
Map of Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo

[B]efore visiting Tokyo last month, I asked for ideas about where to go and what to do on Twitter and Facebook.

Visiting and taking photos of the Tsukiji Fish Market, the world's largest, was the most frequently mentioned activity.

Luckily, my Couchsurfing hosts were up for visiting with me, otherwise, getting up at 5 am and trekking across Tokyo would've been a challenge given I was still suffering from jetlag.

By the time we were exiting the metro near the market, other tourists were already leaving.  They'd gotten up especially early to catch the tuna auction that happens every morning.

The market was a flurry of activity as fish was being prepped, sold, processed, and moved around to delivery trucks.

As a result, we moved through the actual wholesale area of the market very quickly, and therefore I didn't get nearly as many photos as I expected.

Eventually, one fishmonger told us all to get out, pointing to a sign that indicated tourists were not suppose to enter the market before 9 am.

Warning sign for tourists
A sign reminds tourists to be respectful while they are walking around the fish market.

Frozen tuna
A worker concentrates on cutting frozen tuna with a giant ban saw. The frozen fish are destined for other parts of the country, while the fresh fish is distributed to restaurants and markets around Tokyo each morning.

Giant oyster
A giant oyster

Inside Tsukiji Fish Market
Tourists are not suppose to enter the Tsukiji Fish Market before 9am, which is when the market is busiest auctioning fish and processing fresh catches.

Inside Tsukiji Fish Market
One of the less busy aisles inside the Tsukiji Fish Market.

Various fish for sale
Various fresh fish for sale.

Fresh fish packed on ice
Fresh fish packed on ice and ready to be shipped to nearby markets and restaurants.

Seafood delivery truck
A seafood delivery truck awaits its cargo.

Salmon sashimi
After walking through the market, may visitors sit down for breakfast in one of the nearby sushi restaurants. I chose salmon sashimi for my breakfast.

_________________

Visit Cheap Hotels if you need an affordable hotel room in Tokyo.

Award Wallet Review

Airplane wing
En route to Mexico City (photo: Dave Lee)

The travel geek's Holy Grail has arrived in the form of a simple yet robust travel rewards tracking program.

Award Wallet is the latest travel tool that deserves a spot in your bookmarks and iPhone.

Everyone has a credit card, airline, rental car, hotel, and numerous off the wall rewards programs, some you probably forgot about.

Award Wallet can centralize all of those rewards into one easy to access summary.

Award Wallet is not for the traditional American vacationer.

If you take a single one week vacation per year and never think about leaving the country, stop reading here.

If you’ve heard of the term “travel hacking” and have too many reward programs to keep track of, this is just the tool you need.

Did you forget you had 23,000 OnePass miles and that you only needed 2,000 more for a free flight?

With Award Wallet, you will instantly know how much you have and where all of your miles, points, dividends, and credits are at.

It takes 10 minutes to plug in all of your rewards accounts and Award Wallet will instantly track, update, and alert you of your rewards.

Award-Wallet-Screenshot

Price: FREE!!! Okay, the membership site offers two subscription levels depending on how intensely you want to track your rewards.

The free version is very robust and will take care of tracking all the rewards programs you can possibly imagine.

The premium version costs $5 and includes additional tracking information and most importantly an unlimited number of expiration notices (the free account only has 3).

Why Award Wallet is Awesome

Central database – Award Wallet creates a one-stop-shop for you to view all of your rewards programs, see which ones have changed, and add new programs.

Click-through – It took me by surprise but it was amazing when I clicked the name of a reward program in my account and it automatically took me to the program’s website, logged me in, and opened it in a new page.

Free – Aside from the extreme amount of convenience the site provides, being free is the best aspect of the service. Yes, there is a premium version but the free version provides a tone of features that will keep any travel hacker happy.

Simple – There really isn’t much to the site. You log in, add your membership programs, and view them from one simple screen. You can add a profile photo and participate in the forums if you like, but the simplicity of the site makes it easy to get in, check your balances, and get out. The iPhone app is even easier to use.

iPhone app – Although the web site is cool and easy to use, the iPhone app is my first choice for checking my reward balances. The app is free and automatically updates all of your accounts when you start it up.

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This story was brought to you in partnership with Award Wallet. The author's words are his own.

9 Tips to Avoid Theft While Backpacking

The following is a guest post by Monica Stott. If you’d like to guest post on Go Backpacking, please read our submission guidelines.

Money belt
Money belts continue to be a smart way to safeguard cash, ATM cards and important documents.

[I] recently had a 20 hour bus and boat journey through Indonesia.

I arrived at my destination feeling groggy and tired and ... very light. Suspiciously light. My heart dropped while anger fired up inside me as I checked my half empty bag, the bag that I’d clutched protectively to my chest like it was a small child through the whole journey.

Both my camera and my iPod were gone. I was angry that someone had stolen them from under my nose but I was mostly confused. When and how had someone managed to get inside my bag and how could I have been so stupid not to notice!?

After hours of angry ranting, I finally listened to my fellow travellers and found that almost everyone had had a similar experience at some point during their travels.

I found that most people had their belongings stolen from their small daypacks whilst on buses and boats and together we thought of a list of things we’d do differently to avoid ever being robbed again.

Want more tips? Click here for a complete guide to avoid theft whilst traveling

Here are my top 9 tips to avoid theft while backpacking:

1. Have backpack security.

Anything from small padlocks, combination locks or full wire meshing will keep a thief away. Even if it is just for show, it will make a thief think twice. I even think that a plastic raincover can help, but at the end of the day, nothing can keep a thief with a sharp knife out of your bag, which leads me to my second point....

2. Don’t have anything worth robbing.

This isn’t always possible, especially as most people like to travel with a laptop and camera, but its the only way to be 100% sure you won’t have anything stolen. I always travel with an old, worthless mobile phone, a small and relatively inexpensive netbook (leave the Mac Air at home!) and I leave all my jewelery at home.

3. Don't keep anything of any value in your main backpack or suitcase.

Your main bag can be out of your sight for hours at a time and this is a perfect time for thieves. This tip seems so obvious, but time and time again, I have met travellers who have had things stolen from their main bag while it was stored under a bus or on a boat. [Editor's Note: I met a young couple who had stuff stolen from their bag while atop a bus riding from India to Pokhara, Nepal. Remember, in countries such as those it's commonplace for people to ride atop buses, so you're better off keeping your valuables in your daypack where you can at least try to keep an eye on them.]

4. Keep anything valuable in a small bag.

I’d like to emphasize that this should be a small bag so you can literally take it everywhere with you. You should be able to carry this into a tiny toilet cubicle or whilst climbing up the side of a swaying ship. And most importantly, you should be able to take it everywhere without looking suspicious and make people wonder why you won’t let it out of your sight.

5. Keep passports, money and bank cards in a money belt around your waist.

It is virtually impossible for a pickpocket to reach this, especially without you noticing.

6. Carry as little cash as possible.

You often get charged for using cash machines abroad so it’s tempting to to withdraw as much as you can in one go to avoid the fee. I still think that it’s better the get charged $2 for every small withdrawal than to withdraw $200 at once and have it all stolen.

7. Use your online banking.

Avoid having a lot of money in your current account. If your card is stolen, someone could quickly access all your cash. It is best to keep the bulk of your money it in your savings account, which can’t be accessed with your ATM card, and then transfer a small amount over every week or two.

8. Don’t be flashy.

It is inevitable that you will have some valuables on you at some point so hide them away as best as possible. Use small, discreet black headphones and keep your MP3 player in your pocket. I also have a small, cheap camera that I take on nights out or to crowded places where a big camera would be inappropriate.

9. Always use the safe.

If there isn’t a safe in your hostel or hotel room, there should be one available at reception. If you’re leaving money, place it in a sealed envelope with your name and the exact amount written on the outside.

The most important point is to not forget the 9 points before this!

It’s easy to become more relaxed, particularly if you spend months traveling and don’t have any trouble. It’s a horrible thing to say, but don’t trust people you don’t know and be aware that it can be your fellow travelers who have their hands in your pockets.

Safety shouldn’t be something you have to constantly worry about while travelling, so make sure these 9 tips become second nature and they'll go a long way to ensuring a hassle free trip.

Be prepared for the worst and have photocopies of your tickets and passport saved in your email accounts, and backup your photos on a photo sharing website.

Pin for Later

avoid theft while backpacking

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About the Author: Monica Stott caught the travel bug when she was just 10 years old and is currently on a 2 year trip around the world. You can read her tales at: The Travel Hack or on Twitter @TheTravelHack.

Fun Things To Do in Utah on a Road Trip

When most travelers plan a visit to the USA, California, Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon, New York, Chicago, and Disneyworld are high on their list of places to see. You rarely hear travelers planning fun things to do in Utah on a road trip.

"Utah? What's there? Isn't that the Mormon state?"...was my reply to Craig when he suggested this be part of our road trip from North Carolina to Los Angeles.

Arches National Park, Utah (photo: Moriah Wolfe)
Arches National Park, Utah (photo: Moriah Wolfe)

Utah was filled with surprises and became one of my favorite US states. It is what I consider to be the Creator's Art Studio.

Its vibrant colors and dramatic sculptured landscapes provide a feast for your visual senses; its beauty will blow you away.

Hire a car, throw some camping gear in the back, and spend some days exploring Utah's many National and State Parks. Here is a small sampling of the fun things to do in Utah.

Table of Contents

  • Utah Attractions
    • Bryce Canyon National Park
    • Zion National Park
    • Arches National Park
    • Canyonlands National Park
    • Dead Horse Point State Park
    • Scenic Highway 12

Utah Attractions

Bryce Canyon National Park

Horseback riding through Bryce Canyon is one of many fun things to do in Utah.
Horse riding through Bryce Canyon

When I first saw Bryce Canyon, I thought I had died and gone to fairy kingdom land. Who had been keeping this a secret?

A kingdom of bright orange and pink pastel spires and towers, archways, and paths leading deep into the canyon's enchanted forests.

We spent a day walking along the fairy trail, deep into the canyon walls, under archways, running around spires, exploring nooks and crannies, and kicking up the orange dust of the path beneath our feet.

It wasn't this or the sunrise we witnessed in peaceful solitude that made this one of the most extraordinary moments on our road trip.

It was the horse ride through the canyon, led by none other than an honest-to-God real cowboy named Cash, complete with studs, leather pant protectors, a cowboy hat, and whiskey jokes spewing forth from a heavy Western accent.

There is no more stunning way to experience the canyon than by trotting through its narrow tunnels and steep paths on the back of a horse.

Zion National Park

Angels Landing - Zion National Park, Utah
Angels Landing - Zion National Park, Utah

A river slowly winds through the lush forested valley of Zion National Park, where pink and red sandstone cliffs and peaks beckon you to climb for amazing views.

Zion is the place for those with an adventurous streak, as some hiking trails here are fit only for the brave-hearted.

Angels Landing

Angels Landing is one of the park's most strenuous, nail-biting trails. It is not until the last half mile that you start walking along narrow cliff faces, holding on to chains for balance and security.

The final ascent is up a thin, tall cliff on three-foot-wide paths with sheer drops down either side.

I am sad to say that once we looked up at that treacherous path, we decided we had reached the end of our Angels Landing road.

The Narrows

The Narrows is Zion's most famous walk. It takes you through the refreshingly cool Virgin River. As the walk progresses, the canyon walls begin to shrink until they are about 20 feet apart.

It is an adventurous hike that will show you a different and beautiful side to Zion, but you need to be careful.

Should a sudden downpour occur, flash floods happen very quickly, and with steep canyon walls on either side of you, you have nowhere to go but under.

Arches National Park

Delicate Arch - Arches National Park, Utah
Delicate Arch - Arches National Park, Utah

Arches National Park is famous for, not surprisingly, over 2,000 natural sandstone arches.

Many of the different rock formations and archways have names such as North and South Window, Devil's Garden, Courthouse Towers, Balanced Rock, and the Fiery Furnace, named for the way they become fiery when the light hits them at the right time and place.

The Delicate Arch is the most visited and photographed of the Arches, a singular symbol of the National Park.

In the scorching desert sun, the hike up slick rock and around a narrow ledge can be immensely challenging, but it is well worth it. You cannot get a real sense of Arch's enormous size until you stand underneath it for your obligatory photo.

It is not just the gigantic red slick rock sitting on two towering pillars that make the hike here worth it; the views of the surrounding mountains are also pretty impressive.

Islands in the Sky Canyonlands
Islands in the Sky, Canyonlands

Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands is not as popular or well-known as the Grand Canyon, but could be considered just as spectacular. The storms that rip through here during summer are worth the trip alone.

While driving from one section of the park to another amidst a terrifying storm, a lightning bolt hit the ground only meters from our car and sizzled the air around us. It was a frightening display of Mother Nature, but pretty awesome to see.

The Colorado River and its tributaries have divided the park into three separate areas, each with a distinctive character and opportunities for exploration. There are plenty of hiking and biking trails and areas for river rafting.

Be forewarned that traveling between the park areas can take several hours due to the indirect roads that join them.

Related: Best Hiking in the United States

Dead Horse Point State Park

View of Canyonlands from Dead Horse Point
View of Canyonlands from Dead Horse Point

Dead Horse Point State Park, not far from Canyonlands, offers a stunning vista of the latter. Grab a few beers, sit, and watch as the sun sets, casting a soft glow over the sculpted pinnacles and buttes carved by the winding Colorado River below.

Kiss your beer and send cheers to the Universe for allowing you to witness such a magical panorama. We camped here on the evening of July 4. While most Americans were watching fireworks and eating hot dogs, we marveled at Utah's stunning beauty.

Scenic Highway 12

View from the top of Highway 12
View from the top of Highway 12. (Photo: Chuck Collet)

After all the hard work hiking and horse riding, it might be time to take in the stunning Utah landscape from the comfy seat of your air-conditioned car. Scenic Highway 12 is the place for you to go.

At some point throughout the drive, you may think that you have been abducted by aliens and transported to another planet, as the landscape's unearthly lunar appearance is surreal.

The colors of the boulders and bizarre sculptured rock change from red to orange, gray to white, black, and then a rainbow mixture of everything.

This is where the Creator did most of his experimentation with color as he splashed it from one end of the studio to the other.

I sometimes had to close my eyes as the visual onslaught was too much, and I needed my brain to take a break from all that absorption.

Orangutan Trekking in Sumatra

Orangutan, Sumatra
Orangutan, Sumatra

The name Orangutan is made up of two words in the Malay language, "orang" and "hutan." 

Together they make up a phrase that translates to "forest man." 

This reddish long-haired creature is the great Asian ape, presently only located on the islands of Sumatra and Borneo.

Unlike Mountain Gorillas that move on the ground, the remarkable aspect of Orangutans is that they are one of the heaviest animals in the world that lives and transports themselves through tips of the trees.

The biggest males can weigh over 100 kilos and still have the ability to swing through the branches of the jungle and rest in nests built in the treetops.

Gunung Leuser National Park, home to the Sumatran Orangutans is located just 86 kilometers from the congested town of Medan, on the giant island of Sumatra, Indonesia.

Orangutan tours are usually arranged in Medan before proceeding to the small town of Bukit Lawang where the trekking begins.

I booked a two-day trekking tour which included one night at a lodge and one night at a camp in the park.

Sumatran roads are pounded by heavy rain and suffer from deadly potholes, so the roads were not exactly in top condition.

In order to get to Bukit Lawang, we took a series of battered buses and jungle taxis that artfully navigated the muddy terrain and vainly attempted to drive as fast as possible.

All that to say, the mere 86 kilometers took around four hours.

As always, it was a relief to arrive and I was ushered to a small room at one of the few guesthouses located on the rushing rivers edge.

My experience Orangutan trekking in Sumatra began the next morning, straight through the thick of the pristine forest.

We scrambled to make our way up and down mud bogged trails, fighting steep ascents and holding on from tree to tree.

The inevitable sweat poured off my forehead amidst the jungle canopy that locked the humidity in like a sauna.

King of the Jungle
Swinging Through the Trees!

It took a few hours of navigating through the tangles of the forest until we heard the rustling of trees and the faint sound of our first Orangutan!

The sound was coming closer, rapidly. Within seconds the rustling of the trees high above were swaying and bending right in our direction.

The guides informed us that a male was chasing his girlfriend through the trees, attempting to find some love. It was a truly magnificent sight.

The bulkiness of the Orangutans miraculously swung through the branches of the trees with effortless ease.

The weight of their heavy bodies was supported by rubbery limbs that seemed to just bounce from tree to tree and then spring back as the ape released grip.

Soon the Orangutan crew settled down, watching us as we watched them.

Their lanky arms reached out to grab hold of far out limbs and swing around.

Their playful nature involved entertaining bursts of sudden chasing each other around the perfect jungle gym.

Orangutan, Sumatra
Posing for the Pictures

The guides knew each and every Orangutan in the area by years of guide experience, making it easier to approach the apes and observe them closely.

One massive Orangutan posed in a low tree, showing off his photogenic skills and lazily rearranging his position every now and then.

Sumatra Orangutan Camp
Camping in Sumatra

In the evening we settled in a makeshift camp, a beautiful scene on the side of the river surrounded by rolling hills of the sprawling forest.

The sounds of the jungle played like a symphony and we could hear the wailing calls of the "forest man!"

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Dave at Ahu Ko Te Riku on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile.

Hi, I'm Dave

Editor in Chief

I've been writing about adventure travel on Go Backpacking since 2007. I've visited 68 countries.

Read more about Dave.

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