Every year, Melbourne plays host to the Australian Open tennis tournament.
In 2008, I arrived just in time to buy a grounds pass so I could watch the men's final from a jumbo screen right outside Rod Laver Arena.
Melbourne Skyline
5 Must See Floating Markets in Thailand
A floating market is a market that is located next to a body of water, and vendors sell things directly out of their boats.
Though some of the main waterways have since been filled in to make way for roads, Bangkok was once known as the Venice of Asia due to its extensive network of canals.
Many people got around by boat or even went to the market to sell their goods directly from their boat.
What was once a traditional way of life, floating markets throughout Bangkok have become a novelty form of entertainment.
Floating markets are located throughout Bangkok and the surrounding provinces, and they are trendy to visit on the weekends for both locals and foreigners.
Nowadays, the biggest attraction to a floating market in Thailand is the food that is cooked and served directly from a boat floating in the canal.
The markets also offer plenty of random trinket shopping and are just good places to walk around. If you wish, you almost always have the option of navigating the market on a personal boat tour as well.
Visiting a floating market on the weekend has become of the most popular things to do in Thailand. Here are five markets worth your time:
1. Amphawa
Easily the most popular market with Thai locals, Amphawa is an entire neighborhood community that turns into a Disneyland-like floating market on the weekends.
Tons of people escape Bangkok for the day, browse around the little stores, and dine on the delicious food served from boats.
I was genuinely impressed by the parking lot of boats on the canal and how they rapidly served food to all the demanding orders!
Don't miss out on the grilled squid and the roasted shrimp!
2. Damnoen Saduak
Located about one and a half hours from Bangkok, Damnoen Saduak is Thailand's most popular tourist floating market.
Over the weekend, hordes of foreigners flood the market on organized tours.
Due to the massive crowds and the overabundance of souvenirs, this is one of my least favorite floating markets.
However, if you hop in a canal boat, you can still manage to escape most of the traffic and reach some beautiful tree-covered canal areas.
Do it yourself, or book a half-day tour.
3. Khlong Lat Mayom
Located in southern Bangkok, Khlong Lat Mayom is probably one of my favorite markets in Bangkok.
It's like a garden oasis, full of green trees, cool shade, and it is in a much more relaxed environment than the two mentioned above.
Though there are plenty of shops and countless options for food, the market remains calm and low-key.
It's a great place to unwind and partake in a lovely meal on the edge of the canal.
4. Taling Chan
Taling Chan is famous for its fresh selection of roasted seafood.
If you show up on Saturday morning, you'll see a bunch of tables filled with people devouring crab legs, huge roasted prawns, and the all-famous roasted snakehead fish.
5. Bang Nam Phueng
Since floating markets are so popular throughout Bangkok, a few have been recently set up to cater to the rising demand of people looking for leisure on the weekends.
Bang Nam Phueng is located in an area of Bangkok known as Phra Pradaeng.
It is a relatively new market, yet another paradise for food lovers, and a relaxing place to walk around, take a boat, or sit and enjoy the lush ambiance.
When you visit Bangkok, be sure to visit a floating market for the day!
Need more itinerary ideas? Click here for all G Adventures trips to Thailand.
Exploring Changuu, Zanzibar's Prison Island in Tanzania
What is now a tiny, beautiful tropical island off the coast of Zanzibar was once not a pleasant place. At first, Changuu Island (known more commonly as Prison Island) was where enslaved people were detained and held until they were transported to locations in the Middle East or Europe.
After that, the island was transformed into a quarantine center where people with deadly diseases were left so they wouldn't spread their illnesses to the healthy. Today, the island is a nature reserve and a beautiful place to spend the day when you visit Stone Town, Zanzibar.
Getting to the island takes about 30 minutes by motorboat and should cost around $30 - $40 per boat (there and back), each of which can accommodate up to 10 people.
If you don't want to deal with the boat owners themselves, or if you don't have ten people to rent the entire boat, you can easily book a day trip to Prison Island at one of the many tourist offices in the central part of Stone Town. Just be sure to negotiate a deal before you go.
The Indian Ocean can be pretty choppy, so be forewarned if you are prone to seasickness. Once you arrive in the shallower waters of the island, the water becomes calm, and the color turns to that beautiful shade of turquoise blue.
One of the island's famous activities is taking a cool dip and snorkeling around the island. The water wasn't overly clear when I visited, so I couldn't see much while snorkeling, but the swimming was fantastic.
A gift from the Seychelles, on one side of the island is a colony of giant tortoises, one of the highlights of Prison Island these days. Some are gentle goliaths, creeping around silently while munching everything green in sight.
Though it is not permitted to ride them anymore (as it was a few years ago), you can still feed and touch them. They do look and act just like dinosaurs.
About a 5-minute walk away are the former ruins that once functioned as the prison. The structure has aged and weathered into an interesting combination of concrete and overgrown vegetation, offering a lovely view of the water below. Another iconic symbol of Zanzibar's Prison Island is the rickety wooden bridge that stretches from dry land to about 50 meters into the water.
Related: World Famous Prisons
With every wave, the bridge shakes a little, and apart from being a decent place for locals to go fishing, it doesn't serve much another purpose. Most people visit Prison Island as a day trip on their busy schedules in Zanzibar, but if you choose to spend the night, there is one pricey private island resort where you can stay.
I think it's not worth staying on Prison Island as there are more beautiful beaches around Zanzibar. Still, the island's beauty, history (and the tortoise colony) are worth a day trip from Stone Town.
7 Reasons to Visit Kyrgyzstan in Central Asia
Ever dream of wandering through Kyrgyzstan, eating laghman noodles for dinner and drinking kumiz with the nomadic locals while sleeping in a yurt?
Most people haven't. Actually, the predominant response I get when I mention to anyone that I have spent time in the country is the fact that they have never even heard of it (if they don't ask, "Isn't that where Borat is from?" first).
For me, however, after spending a summer there in 2008, returning for a month in 2011, and planning another return in 2012, I can tell you that Kyrgyzstan -- a small country composed of 94% mountains and tucked away in the middle of Central Asia -- is a travel destination that the world will soon start to recognize.
Why? I'm so glad you asked:
Table of Contents
1. Please the Money Belt
In other words: Kyrgyzstan is a budget-friendly destination, so you won't find yourself taking out extravagant amounts of money for your travels.
I will say that the price of travel in this country has increased over the past three years, but I still found my 4 weeks this past November to be a complete bargain -- once you get there of course.
Flights can be the real downer when it comes to price. Your best bet is to add the trip onto a larger journey, or stay put in Kyrgyzstan for as long as possible to get the most bang for your buck.
2. Step into Kyrgyzstan's Unknown
The fun about visiting Kyrgyzstan would be the feeling of stepping into the unknown.
Unlike places like Australia and Thailand that have been heavily traveled and heavily documented in travel magazines and travel blogs, there is still the feeling of visiting a place that has been fairly untouched by the Western world.
3. See History in the Making
While in the shadow of the Soviet Union, Kyrgyzstan was pretty much a mystery to the rest of the world, and since the Soviet Union's fall, it has continued to remain that way until more recent years.
Just in the time since my first visit to the country in 2008, I have seen changes in the capital city of Bishkek.
The city has been modernizing at a rapid rate while the cost of living and standard of living has increased.
In addition, the politics is especially interesting as they have had some riots in the past, ousting a long-term leader and are now adjusting to a newly elected leader.
4. Enjoy a Mouth-Watering Mix of Food
As someone who would classify herself as a picky eater, I find the food in Kyrgyzstan to be a delightful mix.
With influences from Russia, Turkey and Asia, you can choose just about any style of food to please the taste buds.
Choose from Korean BBQ, Kyrgyz laghman, Turkish pide or Russian borscht when heading out to dinner in Bishkek.
5. Enter with Ease
The citizens of several countries of the Western world can get a month-long visa to Kyrgyzstan on arrival at the Manas International Airport -- without any letter of invitation.
Considering the hoops many have to jump through to go to Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and even Kazakhstan, this ease of entry makes visiting Kyrgyzstan much more appealing.
In fact, many people choose to enter Kyrgyzstan and hang around for a bit as they get their other Central Asian visas in order.
6. Spend the Night in a Yurt
Like Mongolia, the Kyrgyz people are originally a nomadic bunch, wandering from place to place, herding sheep and living in a yurt (like a ger).
For an authentic experience, you can spend a night (or nights) sleeping in a yurt in the Kyrgyz countryside.
CBT (Community Based Tourism) is a company that can help set up your stays and get your meals sorted when doing so.
I highly recommend a yurt stay, especially since you'll have access to some of the best night sky views while in the country.
7. Learn Russian for Cheap in Bishkek
I have partaken in Russian language lessons twice in Kyrgyzstan for two main reasons: 1) I want to learn Russian, and 2) it is dirt cheap.
Kyrgyzstan is a bilingual country, officially speaking both Russian and Kyrgyz (although many of the village-residing Kyrgyz will solely speak Kyrgyz).
At my go-to language school in Bishkek, you can get one-on-one Russian language lessons at around $4 per hour. [gbicon]
Now I don't know about you, but I am definitely wishing I were back in Kyrgyzstan right about now!
Adventures in Egypt's Siwa Oasis
One of the absolute coolest things to do in Egypt is to visit an oasis, and one of the most easily accessible is the Siwa Oasis.
To get there you either have to drive yourself or take an eight-hour bus ride from Alexandria.
The buses departs at night and when you wake up, you are in a completely different world - a quiet place with fresh air in the middle of nowhere.
The feeling of life on the oasis really felt like I was on a tiny private island and even the people were laid back and relaxed just as anyone would be on any Caribbean or Asian island.
I felt as though I could retire, riding around on a donkey cart and munching dates while lounging about in my awesomely comfortable Egyptian jellabiya and puffing on fruity sheesha.
It was fantastic!
There are a number of modes of transportation to get around Siwa Oasis: donkey cart, bicycle, motorcycle and foot.
I chose the donkey cart!
Just like throughout the rest of Egypt, the city of Siwa was also anciently inhabited and is home to a number of historical ruins that include the Temple of the Oracle of Amun and the last standing wall of the Temple of Umm Ubayda.
The ruins were extremely interesting to see, as were the Egyptian hieroglyphics on the walls, and a number of tombs in the area.
In the main part of Siwa town is the impressive mud city ruins of Shali.
Waking up early in the morning and hiking to the top viewpoint of the ancient city was incredible.
Most of the mud city itself is not functionally used today, but there are a few shops, restaurants and a fancy boutique hotel that are built and blend right into the mud city.
An overnight desert safari was the highlight of my visit to Siwa.
After loading up the four-wheel-drive Toyota Land Cruisers we headed out into the real desert and the surrounding Egyptian sea of sand.
The dunes and the barren bone dry landscapes were impressive.
We stopped at one area in the middle of absolute nowhere, where the ground was filled with star-etched seashells originating from the time when the area was underwater.
After deflating the truck’s tires to cater to the soft sand, our driver zoomed through the never-ending dunes at high speeds for a thrilling roller coaster ride.
Eventually, we arrived at a seemingly impossible lake in the middle of the desert - an icy cold reservoir of water in the middle of the sand.
Though it was way too cold, I couldn’t miss the opportunity to take a dip in the Sahara.
When evening arrived, we drove to our tented Bedouin style camp to enjoy dinner and eventually sleep for the night.
We were served an excellent meal of grilled meat, rice, and Arabic bread, and then spent the remaining hours of the night sitting around a campfire and dancing to the rhythmic beats of local Siwan instruments that pierced the silence of the desert.
Sunsets in the desert are almost always impressive, and they were no different in Siwa.
Every evening the sun became a ball of fire and with it came every shade of orange, yellow and red imaginable.
Sunset Point, about 5 kilometers from the central town of Siwa, is one of the most spectacular viewpoints as the colors reflect off the swampy lake.
Of all the fun attractions in Eygpt, visiting the Siwa Oasis was one of my most memorable.
11 Quick Ways to Feel Feminine on the Road
You've just finished trekking in Nepal for a week or riding trains across Russia for two.
Your wardrobe has consisted of heavy Keen hikers, cargo pants and the same fleece pullover the entire trip -- now the attire in every photo taken thus far.
In the short-term, this setup puts little strain on the female psyche, but after a while, a girl can start to feel a little drab and unfeminine.
When times like those arise, it only takes one small action to get perked up and feel like a cute girl again, which can do wonders for an otherwise stale mood.
Table of Contents
1. Apply Nail Polish
A bottle of nail polish takes up virtually no space in a backpack, yet can seriously help you feel all sparkly and pretty in a matter of minutes.
I like to use toe nail polish in locations where I'm wearing sandals and doing lots of walking, as it helps to cover up any dirt that might get trapped before the next shower.
Plus, the act of taking off and applying a fresh coat can be a relaxing, meditative experience in itself.
An alternative: Some women may prefer to pack a simple nail kit as taking the time to clean and file nails is also therapeutic.
2. Tie on a Scarf
A scarf is my number one quick and easy feminine accessory.
The right scarf can take a normal outfit and add pizazz, turning a simple black t-shirt and pants into an outfit ready for a night out. A scarf around the neck also puts the focus on the face, bringing out feminine features.
An alternative: A scarf can act as a substitute for several items, such as a belt, a towel or a headband, in a pinch.
3. Dab on Perfume
A quick splash of sweet-smelling perfume is great for feeling feminine. Smelling good makes us feel fresh and confident immediately.
An alternative: Baby powder can serve many purposes while traveling. Direct a couple of squirts in walking shoes or socks and do a quick rub-down for an overall fresh smell.
4. Put on Jewelry
Although I don't recommend carrying around handfuls of gold jewelry in your backpacks (or having it on your person), I do think that a few key pieces of fun jewelry are necessary to keep you looking and feeling cute on the road.
Just like a scarf, putting on a flashy pair of earrings or a bold necklace makes your "blah" outfits fit for a lunch on the marina.
An alternative: Accessorize in other ways. If you just bought a cute bag at the markets, make that your flashy accessory, for example.
5. Apply a Tinted Lip Gloss
I find that the smallest additions can have the biggest effect on feeling feminine. One of my favorite additions is a simple tinted lip gloss, even one with a fruity flavor.
An alternative: You might prefer the simple make-up act of applying mascara or curling your eyelashes. Find out the easiest task that makes you feel/look good and plan for that on the road.
6. Change Up Your Hair
If your hair has been laying flat, or been tied back day after day, a new 'do' can make a difference in the way you look, the way you look at yourself and the way you feel.
Pack a couple of hair pins and add some twists for fun -- it's a great way to make the most of greasy hair.
An alternative: A headband also helps to take the focus off of greasy hair.
7. Use Dry Shampoo
On those days when you can't get to a shower, dry shampoo can help take away the greasy look of your hair.
Hair generally tends to be greasier on the top of the scalp, while the rest of the hair can seem clean. Applying dry shampoo in key spots of the hair can be treat when washing the hair isn't an option.
An alternative: An alternative for lighter-haired girls is to dab on a little bit of talcum powder to the greasy sections of the hair and brush through.
8. Use a Face Wipe for a Quick "Bath" and Freshener
When I've been on a plane for a day or can't get to a shower quick enough, my go-to substitution is to use one of those wet wipe facial cloths as a "bath in a bag".
I pop into a restroom and do a quick wipe-down, and magically feel like a human being again.
An alternative: A rub-down of talcum powder can quickly remove the sticky feeling from your body while making you smell nice.
9. Toss on a Skirt
A skirt screams feminine, so if you have one packed, toss it on! Dressing feminine doesn't only have to happen when you're going out on the town.
Feeling good about the way you look lifts spirits on gloomy days or days when you're feeling homesick or down.
An alternative: Kick off your heavy walking shoes and toss on your sandals or a pair of cute ballet flats.
10. Try on Stylish Clothes at Famous Shops
For those that don't have room to pack super-feminine clothes, take the time to head to famous shopping malls and stores for some fitting sessions.
Trying on nice clothes doesn't mean that you have to buy them, and when you see yourself in a mirror looking flashy in trendy clothing, then you'll quickly feel like a woman again.
Be sure to also take photos while in the changing room to remember the fun!
An alternative: Participate in a clothes swap at your hostel. Mix and match your pieces with other traveling females for a fun and new look.
11. Ask a Guy Out
Fancy a bloke in your hostel? Spot a hot local guy at the bar or club? Asking a guy out on a date will make you excited and possibly get you doing most of the other feminine-feeling tasks on this list. Be adventurous!
An alternative: If you're traveling with your significant other, plan a date night for which you need to get dressed up.
This list is full of ways that you can start to feel feminine again while traveling in just a few short minutes.
If you want to go all out, then some other options for getting back in touch with your woman side can include:
- Going to a spa
- Getting a relaxing massage
- Getting your hair cut, or a body wax
If you have access to an actual bath tub, a long soak can have rejuvenating results.
As a backpacker, these sorts of tasks will probably not need to be done very often, but there are those days -- and I think other female travelers can agree -- where you get tired, flustered and feel super gross from wearing your dirty shirt for a third time and just need to take a moment to feel pretty and clean.
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Photo credit: 1 - philliecasablanca; 2 - quinnanya; 3 - teducation; 4 - quinnanya; 5 - idhren.
Run DMZ: A Visit to the Most Dangerous Place on Earth
The Demilitarized Zone separating North and South Korea has been called “the most dangerous place on Earth.”
Times have changed, and that title could more appropriately be claimed by other places, Baghdad or Kabul come to mind.
But the DMZ would still make anyone’s top five; on either side of the border sits the largest concentration of soldiers and weapons on the planet.
We left our Pyongyang hotel early for the 120-kilometer drive to the DMZ.
As we neared the border, the bus passed through a series of checkpoints that were a few miles apart. These weren’t that intimidating, just a guard shack by the side of the road with a swinging gate out front.
But as we approached each checkpoint, the mood on the bus got a bit tense.
It was one thing to be in North Korea; it was quite another to be scrutinized by army personnel, particularly when carrying an American passport.
After the final checkpoint, the bus pulled up to a large concrete wall where we disembarked.
We were led into a building that contained a gift shop at the DMZ of all places, offering a wide range of ginseng products and books by the Great Leader, Kim Il Sung.
We soon learned that ginseng was available for purchase wherever we stopped in the DPRK.
We were led into a room that contained a ten-foot-high overview map of the area.
A North Korean soldier, wooden pointer in hand, proceeded to provide a military briefing on the DMZ.
Like all rooms in North Korea, it had pictures of the Great Leader, Kim Il Sung, and the Dear Leader, Kim Jong Il, beaming down on the proceedings.
After the brief pep talk, we proceeded to the actual border, which was delineated by a concrete curb that even a child could step over.
A series of small buildings the size of mobile homes straddle the border.
We noticed that there was also a tour group lined up on the South Korean side.
So while the North and South Korean soldiers stared off against each other to see who would blink first, we had our own stare down with the tourists, likely from the same countries as us, on the other side.
We were permitted to enter one of the small buildings that straddle the border, which is used as a conference room when there are disputes between the two Koreas.
Through the small windows of the building, we could see the South Korean guards about twenty feet away standing in battle-ready positions, their arms hanging tensely at their sides with their fists cocked.
As we strolled around the room, we walked in and out of both Koreas, so technically, we were in South Korea at one point.
On the bus ride back, that was a matter of some discussion among our group as to whether we get credit for going to South Korea based on our brief foray.
After we arrived back in Pyongyang, there was a sense of relief that we had survived our visit to the most dangerous place on Earth.
Then reality set in, and we realized we were still in Pyongyang, the capital city of the most isolated nation in the world.
With the recent death of Kim Jong Il, travel arrangements to North Korea are uncertain.
The isolated country does not allow independent travel, and two minders escort all groups.
But if you are interested in visiting a fascinating country that is like no place else you've ever been, we highly recommend going there.
The best place to start is with Koryo Tours. The British-run company has been leading tours to North Korea since 1993.
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About the Author: Larissa and Michael Milne are traveling around the world for a year with a miniature Rocky statue. You can follow their journey at http://www.changesinlongitude.com/ and on Facebook. They are also writing about their adventures for the Philadelphia Inquirer.
10 Delicious Food Photos from a Tasty Year of Travel
Spending about three-quarters of 2011 in Thailand, I was able to explore further the glorious realm of delicious Thai food.
#1. Pictured above is a dish known as khao kluk kaphi that is made of shrimp flavored fried rice covered in a rainbow of tasty ingredients!
#2. Khao moo daeng, or red barbecued pork and rice, is a pork lovers dream come true.
This is a very common dish in Thailand, but after seeing the crowds at this particular restaurant, I decided to give it a try - and it was the best one I've ever had!
#3. I'm a huge lover of all Thai food, but nothing gets me more excited than southern Thai food and its wonderful blend of spicy curries.
Shrimp fried with string beans and something known as "stink beans" was one of the dishes that I couldn't get enough of in 2011.
#4. When I saw these fish waiting to be grilled on the street side of Yangon, Myanmar, there was nothing I could do but immediately order one.
Covered in chili paste and stuffed with fragrant herbs, it was possibly the best-grilled fish I ate the entire year.
#5. No trip to Laos would be the same without spicy green papaya salad, known as som tam.
A combination of shredded crisp green papaya, chopped string beans, tomatoes, dried shrimp and peanuts dressed in fish sauce and lime and served with sticky rice is hard to beat.
#6. Along with the ever-present and always delicious plates of rice and curry that make up the realm of Sri Lankan food is another popular dish known as "hoppers."
They are made from a pancake like batter, flavored with coconut milk, cooked with an egg on top, and served with delicious onion and chili sauce.
#7. Malaysian food is so good that I'm willing to make a trip to the country exclusively for a feast.
This plate of nasi campur, rice with mixed toppings, is one of my favorites. The intense flavors and chilies were absolutely delightful.
#8. As a half Chinese American myself, I grew up eating Chinese food on the daily and there's no other form of cuisine that is more comforting to my taste buds.
This plate of eggplant with pork and chilies was outstanding!
#9. Now I'm typically an every-meal-rice man, but when noodles are covered with this array of gorgeous toppings, they can be irresistible.
I enjoyed every slurp of this bowl of noodles in Yangshuo, China.
#10. The ultimate meal that changed my life for the better in 2011 was this Chinese hot pot of white meat fish smothered in a seemingly infinite amount of garlic, dried chilies, and Sichuan mouth-numbing peppercorns.
With a few bowls of rice, this was probably my most memorable meal of the year!
Let's Go Backpacking in Patagonia
I'm excited to announce that I will be going backpacking in Patagonia on March 3, 2012, in partnership with G Adventures!
Departing from Buenos Aires, the 15-day End of the Earth tour encompasses the best of Patagonia, in both Chile and Argentina.
Hiking in the mountains of Patagonia, and standing in awe of its glaciers, has been a travel dream of mine for almost a decade.
Last year, I approached G Adventures about working together at some point during my journey through South America, and this trip is the result.
End of the Earth Itinerary
G Adventures offers a range of Patagonia trips, and frankly, they all look amazing.
The End of the Earth trip starts and ends in Buenos Aires, and includes the following highlights:
- Full-day hike in Glacier National Park
- Visit the massive Perito Moreno Glacier
- Two and a half days of hiking in Torres del Paine National Park
- Visit a penguin colony at Otway Sound in Punta Arenas
- Visit Ushuaia, the southernmost city in South America, and possibly the world (as well as the most popular jumping-off point for cruises to Antarctica)
- Boat cruise on the Beagle Channel
End of the Earth Tour: Discover South America's most amazing scenery, including majestic mountains and massive glaciers. Click here for the full itinerary.
Why G Adventures?
First and foremost, we share a common value -- inspiring people to change their lives through travel.
Also, G Adventures earned my admiration as I watched them embrace social media, and build relationships with travel bloggers years before it was cool to do so.
For example, Bruce Poon Tip (the company's founder) and I had started following one another on Twitter back in 2009.
The following year, we were drinking beers together at a bar in Washington, DC because he had wanted to attend one of the monthly DC Travel Tweetups I'd been co-hosting.
I'm also a huge fan of the Wanderers in Residence program that G Adventures launched in late 2010, which features several of my peers, such as Gary Arndt of Everything Everywhere and Dan and Audrey of Uncornered Market.
The trips they've taken with G Adventures have served to inspire me, and now it's my turn to do the same for you.
What to Expect
It will be business as usual here on Go Backpacking.
I'll be traveling with all my standard gear, and providing real-time updates and photos via Twitter (follow the unique #RTWGADV hashtag), Facebook, and Instagram.
After the trip concludes in Buenos Aires, I'll shack up and get to work editing photos and writing blog posts to keep you motivated toward a journey of your own.
I'll be sharing my experiences on both Go Backpacking, as well as the G Adventures' blog.
But Wait, What About the Wildfire?
You may have seen that a wildfire broke out last Tuesday in Chile's Torres del Paine National Park. Visitors were evacuated, and the park was closed.
Since then, progress has since been made in getting the fires under control.
G Adventures maintains a page dedicated to safety updates from around the world, and how they may be affecting tours to specific regions.
According to the latest advisory for Torres del Paine (dated January 4, 2012), the rain dances being performed by G Adventures' staff are paying off, and part of the park is expected to re-open any day now. Excellent.
I am super excited to have the opportunity to experience all that Patagonia has to offer, and finally, see what it's like to go backpacking with G Adventures.
Join me on March 3, 2012, for one of South America's greatest adventures!
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Disclosure: This Patagonia tour is in partnership with G Adventures. I am paying for transportation to/from Buenos Aires, all meals except when camping, optional activities, and any incidentals. The opinions expressed are entirely my own.
Machu Picchu in Pictures: My First Trek to the Lost City
When I met up with the others from the Salkantay trek at 4:20 AM, the streets of Aguas Calientes were dark and empty. Together, we began the 20-minute walk down the road to the main entrance of Machu Picchu. We arrived at 4:45 AM, just as the entrance was opened, and couldn't wait to take our first pictures of Machu Picchu.
This is the same entrance used by the buses that shuttle people up and down the mountain, but we didn't just trek for four days to hop on a bus at the last minute. No, we banded together and, through peer pressure, walked up the approximately 1,600 stone steps that lead to South America's most popular tourist attraction.
The walk took me 50 minutes, and when I reached the top, I was sweating like a stuck pig. The final gate doesn't open until 6 AM, so the early risers were all sitting around, catching their breath.
Kathy, the Australian from my group who'd visited Machu Picchu three times before, suggested I sit at the top of the stairs, right near the four turnstiles through which visitors pass. Even though I wasn't the first person to reach the top, sitting on the top stair didn't seem inappropriate.
While I was there, two American women spoke of how they'd been waiting for an hour. (Warning: If you're a cute foreign person thinking of trying to sneak into Machu Picchu early, you'll only get so far.)
At 6 AM, I aligned myself with one of the turnstiles as the line behind me began to take shape. I was one of the first four people inside that day.
Once Kathy got in, she started running. I followed, and she led me to a lookout point. We had a few minutes to enjoy Machu Picchu at sunrise before the rest of the day's 2,500 visitors showed up.
After the initial rush of seeing the Inca citadel wore off and we'd gotten some photos, it was time for our tour of Machu Picchu. Led by Daniel, our guide from the Salkantay trek, we walked around the complex for about two hours.
While I appreciated the information he was relaying, it was a huge buzzkill, as I wanted to explore on my own. But you can't have it both ways, at least not on a group tour.
At 10:30 AM, after refueling on snacks outside the main gate, it was time to climb Huayna Picchu for a birdseye view of Machu Picchu. When I first saw Huayna Picchu, I had no idea how I'd get up. I'd heard there were ropes on the steep sections (actually, they are steel cables), but from below, it looked impossibly steep.
But believe it or not, a trail winds up the mountain face, and it only took me about 40 minutes to get up. As usual, walking down the steep trail caused the most pain.
I took it extra slow, heartened by a grandmother who was also hobbled by knee pain but kept trucking. If it was 40 minutes to get up, and I spent 20 minutes at the top taking pictures, then it took me 60 minutes to get down, as I checked out 2 hours after I entered.
For safety reasons, there are two timed entrances to Huayna Picchu daily, 8:30 AM and 10:30 AM. Only 200 tickets are sold for each time slot (400 daily).
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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.
Getting to Know Brooke Schoenman
From Dave: I'm excited to announce Brooke Schoenman will be joining the Go Backpacking family as of this month, and will henceforth be contributing on a weekly basis. I began following Brooke way back in 2007, as we both (publicly) planned our future travel adventures. Please join me in offering her a warm welcome!
I am writing this article while sitting passenger in a car destined for the Mid-north Coast of New South Wales.
The sun is shining so bright that I just had to reapply sunscreen to keep from getting that nice car sunburn that only graces one side of the body.
Oh, the joys of road trips in Australia in the summer.
The first thing you should know about me is that I'm an American living as an expat in Australia, quickly coming up on 3 years in the land down under.
And, since I'll be writing here on GoBackpacking.com on a regular basis, now is probably a good time to make my introduction so you can get to know me even better. Here goes!
Table of Contents
About Yours Truly
I was excited to get the offer to share my travel stories and tips here on this site because I am a backpacker to the core with the love of blogging flowing through my veins.
My personal travel journey started back in late 2007 after about 1.5 years of planning and saving.
I finally set off for a few shorter adventures -- a month-long archaeological dig in Spain and a two-month excursion to Central America -- before setting off again for the trip that would eventually evolve into the now.
During that time, I've been able to hack on a list of life experiences that include:
- Spending about 5 months traveling
- Living and studying Russian in Central Asia
- Teaching English in Kiev, Ukraine
- Wandering around the Baltic countries for 6 weeks and meeting the Aussie love of my life
- Moving down under to be with said love of my life by signing up for a work and holiday visa before applying for the defacto partner visa
To discover the full extent of my travels and experiences, I suggest having a look at my personal travel blog: Brooke vs. the World.
My Favorite Places in the World
Another thing you should know about me is that I have an obsession with the countries of the former Soviet Union.
After spending a significant amount of time in the Central Asian countries of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, and further teaching English in Ukraine, I've been set on visiting as many of them as possible.
The adventure continued with a return trip this November to Kyrgyzstan, and upcoming travels on the Trans-Mongolian train will ensure that I finally make it to Russia.
Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan is a little known country that has a special place in my heart, and take it from me: This place is going to be a big travel destination in the future.
Still shaking off that sheltered upbringing brought on by the USSR, Kyrgyzstan is finally starting to draw interest from backpackers and adventure travel seekers.
I find the country intriguing and surprisingly comfortable given its developing surrounds.
Bishkek, the capital city, is modernizing at a rapid rate, yet small villages of rustic, and even some nomadic yurt-living, Kyrgyz dominate the countryside. I'm excited to be able to share this destination with you.
Australia
Australia is not a travel secret, as many backpackers head down under to live out a year or two of their lives thanks to the working holiday visa. However, Australia is surprising.
Being such a gigantic and sparse country, there are definitely locations in Australia where you can visit and feel like you are the only person on Earth.
Let's not forget about the extreme natural beauty, the quirky and iconic wildlife and hundreds if not thousands of beaches.
I love Australia as a travel destination because there is so much on offer. You can have your big city, shopping-filled getaway, eating in trendy cafes and restaurants before seeing a show.
Or, you can get back to nature, camping in the outback or hiking to waterfalls. From secluded islands to dense tropical rainforest, the choice of environments for your holiday is yours!
My Writing Topics
Over the coming months, I'll be sharing posts that cover a number of topics ranging from female travel to working abroad.
I'll divulge insights into a life living as an expat in Australia, tips for foreign language speaking wannabes, and alternative holiday ideas.
You can also be sure to get several posts on some of my favorite countries in the world: Kyrgyzstan and Australia.
It should be an interesting mix, and if you think so too, be sure to stick around.
Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu: A Daily Account
The highlight of the 4-day Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu is the opportunity to walk in the shadow of the snow-capped Salkantay Mountain (6,264 meters). Unlike the classic 3-day Inca Trail trek, which requires you to book a spot at least five to six weeks in advance (in the low season), the Salkantay Trek can be booked in Cusco upon arrival.
And it can be done for less than half the cost. I'll be writing more about how to book the trek and what to pack in future posts. But first, I want to take you through the journey day by day, as it was an authentic outdoor adventure that tested both my mental and physical resolve.
Table of Contents
Day 1 - Cusco to Soraypampa
Begin: Mollepata 2,900 meters / 9,514 feet; End: Soraypampa 3,900 meters / 12,795 feet.
Change in Elevation: 1,000 meters / 3,281 feet.
Time walking: 5 hours 15 minutes
Pick-up
Awake at 4 AM, I wiped the sleep from my eyes, rolled out of bed, and moved my bags to the hostel reception. As expected, the minivan didn't arrive until 4:30 - 4:40 AM. Under the cover of darkness, we drove around, picking up additional trekkers. Our group for the next five days was slowly forming.
Abhishek, a young British doctor. A young German doctor. Two Dutch girls. Nicole (Canada). Two Malaysian women in their 40's. A young Japanese guy. And Kathy, an older Australian woman who had just completed the Inca Trail the day before (she did the two treks back to back).
Breakfast
As we drove from Cusco to Mollepata, a small pueblo, the sky began to brighten. We had a simple breakfast of bread and eggs with mate de coca (coca tea). Afterward, we were led to a large truck and hitched a ride for several kilometers up a steep, muddy road.
Our guide would say it saved us a few hours of walking, but nobody protested. Once the truck dropped us off, we began our walk straight up the mountainside.
Related: How To Get To Machu Picchu
I had given myself five nights to acclimate in Cusco, which is 3,300 meters above sea level, but I had failed to exercise then. My heart was pounding within the first few minutes.
One of the Malaysian women, both of whom had been to Everest Base Camp and successfully climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro two years earlier, complained of a headache. I knew if she felt bad at 3,100 meters before we'd even started, it wouldn't bode well for her that night or on Day 2, the most challenging day.
The sun was beating down and hotter than I'd expected. Covered in a familiar layer of suntan spray and mosquito repellent, I tried to settle into a comfortable walking rhythm. Over three years had passed since my last high-altitude trek to Indrahar Pass in northern India, and I hadn't realized it'd been so long since I'd given myself a good physical challenge.
Doubts began creeping into my head. They were familiar ones about my health at high altitudes and physical stamina. I recognized them from my Annapurna Sanctuary trek in Nepal, during which I didn't reach Base Camp, an experience that took me months to reconcile.
Lunch
After two and a half hours of walking, we stopped for lunch: soup and a rustic version of lomo saltado (beef, vegetables, and rice). Despite knowing that food is energy, I barely finished half my plate and needed as much as possible. Instead, I relied on chocolate and copious amounts of water.
I probably drank two to three times more water throughout the trek and pissed two to three times more often than anyone else in our group.
Sitting at the table, mind filled with doubts about whether I was fit for this trek, one of the Dutch girls said something that snapped me back into reality. Paraphrasing, she said any of us could do this trek if we wanted it. And I wanted it badly.
From that point forward, I walked with renewed vigor-as if I'd been asleep at the wheel those first few hours and was suddenly awake. Instead of allowing my thoughts to run wild with fear, I took control of my mind, and thus, my body followed suit.
Campsite
After lunch, we looked up the valley to see the glacier-covered Umantay. Unlike some trekkers, I gain energy by seeing the next camp -- the next destination. Almost two hours later, I walked into our campsite for the night.
We helped the cook and horseman pitch the tents in an area protected by a sheet metal roof and plastic tarp walls. It wasn't much, but it'd help keep the wind out and keep us dry if it rained. It was my first time sleeping at an altitude as high as 3,900 meters (12,795 feet).
We all scarfed down the popcorn served as an appetizer. I forgot the main course, but it was much better than lunch, as was the case with the meals on the remainder of the trek. By 10 PM, we were all in our sleeping bags. Day 2 would be the longest and most challenging trekking day, and we'd be getting an early start.
I woke up once in the middle of the night to pee. On the walk back to the tented area, I stopped and turned off my headlamp-total darkness. I craned my neck and looked at the star-filled sky-the bright stars you only see when you physically remove yourself from the modern world.
Day 2 - Soraypampa to Chaullay
Begin: 3,900 meters / 12,795 feet; High Point: 4,650 m / 15,256 ft; End: 2,900 m / 9,514 ft.
Change in Elevation: +750 m / +2,461 ft uphill, followed by -1,750 m / 5,741 ft downhill.
Time walking: 8 hours 15 minutes
Day 2 started with a 5 AM wake-up call and a cup of coca tea. By the time we'd eaten breakfast, the sun was already reflecting brightly off the glaciers around us. Our guide, Daniel, took a few minutes to introduce the support crew, including a cook, assistant cook, and horseman who managed the horses that carried our camping equipment, food, gas, and supplies.
I had a relatively good night's sleep. It wasn't the most comfortable, as the sleeping mat was paper-thin, but my rented sleeping bag was sufficiently warm, which mattered most. I bought some extra chocolate and water. I think I walked out of camp with 3.25 liters of water in my bag, if not a little more.
Ascent
We began going up the valley toward Salkantay Mountain, which would remain partly shrouded in clouds the whole morning. The day before, we got a glimpse of the peak both on the drive to Mollepata and from Camp 1, which was enough to satisfy me, given we were there in the off-season.
Kathy, the Australian woman, shared some coca leaves with us and a natural "accelerator" that speeds up the effects when combined with the leaves. Within a minute or two of chewing on the leaves, the right side of my tongue went numb. Spitting out the juices, as if I were chewing on tobacco, was less than appealing, so eventually, I spit out the whole wad of masticated leaves.
Refocusing on the trail, the views continued to get prettier and prettier as our hearts beat harder and harder. But I loved every minute. It was as if I was running on pure adrenaline that morning. I've never felt so healthy and vital. I attributed this feeling to drinking tons of water and snarfing Snickers bars.
The Japanese guy outpaced us all, and we eventually lost sight of him. Meanwhile, the Malaysian woman with the headache from the day before had rented a horse to ride up the mountain pass that morning.
She had only spent two nights in Cusco before starting the trek, so her body had not had enough time to acclimatize. I don't blame her for renting the horse; I would've done the same if I felt it was in the best interest of my health. However, hearing at least one other person in the group make disparaging remarks annoyed me.
The High Point
The closer we got to the 4,650-meter mountain pass, the more energized I felt. I surprised myself in the best possible way. The landscape had changed dramatically in the 750 meters we'd climbed in elevation. Gone were the green grasses, replaced by the rocky, moon-like landscapes often seen above 4,000 meters.
On Day 1, we practically had the trail to ourselves aside from a couple trekking with a guide. On Day 2, we shared the trail with that couple and another small group of trekkers. The lack of other people was a surprise and a clear benefit to trekking in the low season.
Euphoria struck us all as we posed by the sign marking the trail's high point. It was a new personal high for me in trekking at high altitudes, though I'd previously been as high as 5,000 meters during the visit to Pastoruri Glacier.
Maybe it was the thin air, but I felt I had the energy to go even higher. After three and a half hours of walking to the pass, I knew I could've gone even higher that day. But the most challenging part of the day wasn't going up; it was the following five hours it took to descend 1,750 meters in elevation.
Descent
After about 20 minutes of rest and picture-taking at the pass, we began our descent. Driven to reach a lower elevation to negate the ill effects of the altitude, I walked as quickly as my body would take me. My knees didn't appreciate that approach, and within a few hours, I started feeling sharp pangs of pain.
At an elevation of 4,000 meters in a verdant green valley, we stopped for a spaghetti lunch at the small village of Huayracpampa. Here, we found the Japanese guy sleeping on our bags, which had been unloaded from the horses upon arrival (ahead of us).
The last three hours of walking were the killer. Physically, they were the most challenging part of the trek for me. I slowed my pace and adjusted my walking style on the steeper bits. The whole trail was scree and loose rock, like a dry riverbed. I wanted nothing more than to get to Camp 2 to lay down and rest.
I began repeating a mantra, "You can walk slowly, but you must keep walking."
Blisters
When we finally arrived in Chaullay, and I removed my shoes and socks, I was greeted by four to five painful blisters on each foot. I usually carry a sewing needle to drain them, but I'd forgotten. Luckily, the German girl had one to spare. Dinner was a relaxed affair, and I went straight to sleep after it was over.
Day 3 - Chaullay to Santa Teresa
Begin: 2,900 m / 9,514 ft; End: 1,900 m / 6,234 ft.
Change in Elevation: -1,000 m / 3,281 ft.
Time walking: 4 hours 15 minutes
It rained at some point during our second night as we awoke to wet tents. However, I slept like a log. Even though we were 1,000 meters lower than the first night, the temperatures were far warmer than we'd experienced at Camp 1.
Rising around 6 AM to coca tea delivered to our tents, we had a filling breakfast, said goodbye to our horseman and horses, and walked along a dirt road that follows the Lluskamayu River. A recent landslide had taken out a section of the regular hiking trail, which runs on the opposite side of the river, so we took a detour for safety reasons.
Setting the Pace
Reinvigorated after a whole night's rest, I lead the pack. Compared to the first two days of walking, Day 3 was a breeze. We followed the river for the entire day's walk. As we descended in elevation and the sun rose higher in the sky, it became very hot and humid.
I walked quickly simply because I wanted to reach our camp for the night and escape the heat. It didn't take long for my knees to reject this strategy. Once again, I was feeling sharp, at times crippling, pains in my knees.
Landslides
We could detour around one massive landslide that affected the trail, but others still required us to pass them. It helps if you don't look down. A little over four hours after we started, we reached the trail's end.
A minivan was waiting to take us the short distance to the village of Sahuayacu (elev: 2,520 meters), where we had a gigantic lunch of soup, fried rice, and vegetables. We then hopped back into the van to drive to nearby Santa Teresa, where we would spend our third night.
The reward for getting this far was a dip in the hot springs outside Santa Teresa. They're situated in a scenic spot alongside the river, and we arrived before the other groups doing the Inca Trail and Inca Jungle treks. For 10-15 minutes, aside from a few locals, we had the pools to ourselves.
That night, we were to have a campfire. However, heavy rain washed those plans away. Instead, we drank beer and played a few rounds of a card game (called asshole) after dinner.
Day 4 - Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes
Begin: 1,900 m / 6,562 ft End: 2,000 m / ft.
Change in Elevation: -100 m / 328 ft.
Time walking: 3 hours
On the fourth morning, the group split up. I wanted to head straight for Aguas Calientes, as did Nicole (Canada), while the rest of the group wanted to pay about $30 to ride what's billed as South America's biggest zipline. Daniel drew Nicole and me a map from the Hydroelectric plant to Aguas Calientes. It was as if we were in Stand by Me.
Walking the Train Tracks
Nicole and I took a 30-minute taxi, along with an Argentinian trekker, to the start of the railway that runs from the Hydroelectric plant through Aguas Calientes and Ollantaytambo to Cusco. There were still sections where we had to walk on the loose rock of the railroad tracks. However, it was a flat walk through the valley behind Machu Picchu. Along the way, a dog began to follow us. Daniel informed us that the trains pass every hour or two, and sure enough, we had to step aside for one during the 3-hour walk.
Aguas Calientes
When we reached the entrance to Machu Picchu, near the train tracks, Nicole and I posed for pictures since we'd get up before dawn the next day to hike up. With excitement and relief, we finally walked up to the road from Machu Picchu's main entrance to the town of Aguas Calientes. Situated along the river, with the train tracks running straight through the center, it's a tourist town in the strictest sense of the term.
Upon finding our hostel for the night, I showered and treated myself to a one-hour massage, followed by coffee and a piece of rich chocolate cake. Dear civilization, I missed you! That night, we had a group dinner at one of the restaurants. We all ordered the trucha (trout), a dish I've come to relish when up in the Andes.
After dinner, a few of us went for a cocktail - five for one caipirinha, which drew us in the door. Unfortunately, they were the tiniest cocktails I'd ever been served. And we forgot about the inevitable tax and service charge they'd tack on.
Small drinks aside, it was nice to spend a little time bonding before we set off for our final destination, Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu, before dawn the following day.
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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.
Go Backpacking: The Most Popular Posts of 2011
'Tis the season for retrospective blog posts.
Putting together these list brings back a lot of memories, not just of writing my own stories, but of reading those contributed by Mark Wiens, and others throughout the year.
Top 13 Most Popular Posts Published in 2011
- World's Best Beer Name - by David Lee
- Bare Naked: Inside a Japanese Onsen - by David Lee
- 9 Tips to Avoid Theft While Backpacking - by Monica Stott
- Top 10 Travel Safety Items for Women - by Emily Gerson
- Top 9 Malaysian Foods to Die For - by Mark Wiens
- Ultralight Packing List for Japan - by David Lee
- Destination Asia: Packing Ultralight - by Matthew Falk
- Top 9 Ways to Avoid Looking Like a Gringo in Latin America - by Andrew
- How to Stay Beautiful While Traveling - by Olga Garcia
- 7 Simple Tips to Save Funds for Your Round the World Travels - by Ben Manning
- Top 5 Zanzibar Beaches - by Mark Wiens
- 12 Captivating Natural Wonders of Southeast Asia - by Mark Wiens
- 10 Unforgettable Destinations for 2011 - by Ayngelina
Editor's Picks
Raw page views aren't the only measure of a post's popularity or value.
Here are another 10 posts from 2011 which I believe are worth your time and attention.
- Fear of Travel: Don't Let it Stop You from Seeing the World - by David Lee.
- Anatomy of An Armed Robbery in South America - by David Lee. Getting robbed in Medellin was the low point of my year, and I detailed the events in this 2,000 word post.
- How to Book a Last Minute Cruise to the Galapagos Islands - by David Lee. After visiting the Galapagos in August, I wrote this guide as a blueprint for planning your own trip.
- Backpacking is an Attitude, Not a Budget - by David Lee. One of my few rants of the year.
- Street Food in Bangkok: How to Take Advantage of the Endless Supply - by Mark Wiens.
- Orangutan Trekking in Sumatra - by Mark Wiens
- Introduction to Ethiopian Food - by Mark Wiens
- How to Get Ready for a High Altitude Mountain Climb - by Suzanne Nance
- 5 Keys to Maintaining Your Inner Peace on a Group Tour - by Pete Mandra
- How to See Argentina in 30 Days - by Marcello Arrambide
As the Editor in Chief of Go Backpacking, my goal is to provide a daily mix of practical, entertaining, and inspiring travel posts.
If there are any particular topics or destinations you'd like to see covered in 2012, please leave a comment below and I'll do my best to deliver.
My Travel and Business Year in Review
This year passed in the blink of an eye. Or at least that's how it feels looking back.
I'm lucky enough to say I've done exactly what I wanted to do and had a great time doing it.
This year had its share of low points, too; however, they only served to make me stronger.
If you're a new reader, this post is a great way to catch up!
Table of Contents
Japan
On February 1, about a month before the earthquake and tsunami struck, I flew from Newark to Tokyo to kick off my first trip to Japan.
I packed ultra light, only carrying a daypack for the 11-day Winter trip.
Tokyo
I couchsurfed in Tokyo, re-enacted scenes from Lost in Translation at the Park Hyatt, got kicked out of the Tsukiji Fish Market, and took a day trip to visit the snow monkeys of Nagano.
Kyoto
I then hopped a bullet train to Kyoto, where I got a hazy view of Mt. Fuji in the distance.
On my first night in Kyoto, I walked into a random restaurant and had the best sushi of my life.
Despite the cold air outside, the salmon belly would melt in my mouth, and I couldn't get enough of it.
I also tried several regional cuisines in Kyoto, including Kushikatsu and Kaiseki.
I visited the tranquil Golden Temple and then stepped WAY out of my comfort zone with a bare naked visit to a traditional Japanese onsen.
Hiroshima
The food discoveries continued with massive, fresh oysters and okonomiyaki in Hiroshima, a city that I visited as a day trip from Kyoto to see the iconic A-Bomb Dome and Peace Park first hand.
Colombia
Within a few days of returning to Virginia from Japan, I was on a flight back to Medellin, Colombia, where I spent the subsequent six months.
In addition to further delving into the city's ridiculously fun nightlife, I also made an effort to visit some of the top restaurants.
The highlight was a 4-hour dinner at El Cielo, which specializes in molecular gastronomy. I also enjoyed Bijao, which specializes in Nuevo Latino cuisine, and Me Late Chocolate.
Caribbean Coast
My big trip outside Medellin took me to the Caribbean city of Santa Marta, Taganga -- a backpacker favorite, the gorgeous Parque Nacional Tayrona, and Cabo de la Vela, a desolate yet beautiful beach at the northernmost point of the country and continent.
Pueblos
I also made it a point to visit two of Antioquia's most popular pueblos, Jardin, where I went horseback riding, and Santa Fe de Antioquia, where I started writing and compiling my Medellin city guide, an ebook I intended to release early in 2012.
But it wasn't all fun and games.
I got sick (I swear it was more than just traveler's diarrhea) on the ride back to Santa Marta from the La Guajira Peninsula.
Once I felt better and back in Medellin, I was robbed by an armed man while waiting at a stoplight in a taxi.
Ecuador
The recent robbery in Colombia had me on edge for my first visit to Ecuador, but despite all the theft stories I'd heard, I couldn't bring myself to skip a country out of fear alone.
Quito
So I flew to Quito on AeroGal as planned and proceeded to have a fun and theft-free time exploring the historic city center, visiting the Equator, riding the Teleferico for sweeping city views, and mountain biking down Cotopaxi Volcano.
The Galapagos Islands
I booked a last-minute trip to the Galapagos Islands from Quito but ran into trouble early when our yacht broke down the first day!
Luckily, we had a cool guide, and we made the most of the downtime with a visit to Tortuga Bay, where we saw our first sharks and marine iguanas.
The week's highlight for me was swimming with sea lions, followed closely by observing the Blue Footed Boobies.
We saw the famous land tortoises and even a few Galapagos Penguins!
Banos, Guayaquil, Montanita, and More
I went to Ecuador for the Galapagos but soon found much more to the country than the wildlife out at sea.
I went canyoning in Banos, ate cuy (guinea pig), poked around Guayaquil, partied in Montanita, and fell in love with Cuenca. It was also in Cuenca that I had my best meal in Ecuador.
From there, it was on to Vilcabamba in the Valley of Longevity, from where I would start the overland journey into northern Peru.
Peru
Taking the scenic route into Peru entailed a 2-day bus and colectivo adventure to Chachapoyas, where I visited the ancient fortress of Kuelap and the world's 3rd tallest waterfall.
Then it was on to Trujillo, the country's second-largest city, from which I explored colorful Moche ruins and UNESCO-listed Chan Chan.
Continuing the zigging and zagging pattern, my next overnight bus took me to Huaraz at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca.
I toured Huascaran, Peru's tallest mountain, and visited a glacier at 5,000 meters above sea level.
From Huaraz, I landed in Lima, where I'd proceed to eat my way through the city (and put on the extra pounds to prove it).
I'll be writing more about my time in Lima, as well as my trek to Machu Picchu in early January, so stay tuned!
The Business
My goal with building an online income has always been to live and travel abroad freely.
As I devoted the second half of 2010 to living in Colombia, it wasn't until 2011 that I got to spread my wings and fly.
While my income didn't increase as much as I'd anticipated (it grew about 20%), it was enough to allow me a few investments back into the business, including a new 13" MacAir (which may be the best travel laptop ever) and custom blog design.
I also began paying contributors for the first time, which has worked out very well for everyone.
So well that I'll be announcing another addition to the Go Backpacking team in early January.
And most recently, I was honored to be accepted into the Society of American Travel Writers.
Go Backpacking - I started the year searching for a new contributor, which led me to Mark Wiens.
His weekly contributions are amongst the most shared on Go Backpacking.
Visits increased 62% in 2011 over the prior year, with the site breaking 1.2 million page views. I also began creating the Travel Guides section.
Medellin Living - Medellin Living had a breakout year, with almost triple the number of visits in 2011 over 2010.
I also began paying contributors to this site, which is especially important when I'm not in Colombia, as I can't devote as much time to growing the site.
Travel Blog Success - At the start of the year, I doubled the number of lessons and audio interviews.
I also added monthly coaching calls and a private Facebook group to the Premium membership offering.
Over 100 new members joined the TBS community in the last 12 months, bringing the total membership to over 200.
I don't anticipate any significant changes for 2012 and hope to continue helping new bloggers one by one.
The rest of the week will be devoted to sharing the most popular posts of the year.
Thank you for continuing to read, and I look forward to making 2012 our best year yet!
5 Outdoor Adventures Around Guilin, China
Guilin city is an extremely beautiful town located in the northern part of Guangxi Province, China.
After arriving, I asked a local about the population of Guilin. "It's very small, about 6 million," she replied. I guess by Chinese standards that is rather small.
Anyways, don't let the mid-sized city population of Guilin throw you off, there are plenty of cool outdoor adventures in and around the area.
Table of Contents
1. Go Hiking
Though there are many hiking destinations around Guilin, one place famous for its scenic views is the hike from Yangdi to Xingping.
It's a long hike, about 25 kilometers, but the views of the Li River and the incredible karst mountains were absolutely breathtaking.
The hike took us about 5 hours to complete but it was worth every step.
The actual small town of Yangshuo, situated about 1.5 hours from Guilin is also surrounded by mountains and offers a wide selection of different hikes.
Try hiking up TV Tower or hike to the top of Moonhill.
2. Bike Riding
A different way to see the scenery around Guilin is to rent a bicycle and take a cruise.
Within the city of Guilin, there are plenty of parks and outdoor public areas that make great areas to bike around.
Outside of Guilin, again in the town of Yangshuo, there are lots of bicycle route options.
Many bike rides are accessible by provided roads that have very little motor traffic, however, if you enjoy off-road biking you can easily pedal down one of the countless rice farming trails.
One of the great things about Yangshuo is that even though there are plenty of tourists, it is still easy to escape the crowds when you are on a bike.
You can either choose a real mountain bike or a Chinese style one-speed bike.
Mountain bikes go for around $5 - $10 per day while one-speed bikes (like the one above) can be rented for just $1 or less per day.
3. Rock Climbing
All the karst cliffs and mountains make the area of Guilin one of the most well-known spots in China for rock climbing enthusiasts.
From organized rock climbing tours put together by official companies to just getting out there and tackling the adventure on your own, if you like rock climbing you will have a blast in Guilin and Yangshuo.
There are possibilities to go rock climbing if you are a highly experienced climber or even if you are just a beginner.
4. Bamboo Rafting
China is probably the most famous country in the world for bamboo.
Bamboo is a wonder plant that produces perfectly round poles that have been used for countless purposes throughout China's lengthy history.
One of those ancient uses was to construct floating riverboats. While there are quite a few fake bamboo rafts made from plastic tubes these days, there are also plenty of real bamboo rafts.
The slow-moving Yulong River near Yangshuo is one of the best places to rent an authentic bamboo raft and enjoy a lazy floating time down the river.
5. Caving
Due to the natural landscapes and abundance of mountainous rock formations, Guilin is home to some amazing scenery below its surface too.
One of the most popular and closest caves to visit in Guilin is the Reed Flute Cave.
As proven by ancient Tang Dynasty rock carvings and etching, the Reed Flute Cave has been enjoyed by Chinese visitors starting over 1200 years ago.
Closer to Yangshuo are even more caves including the Silver Cave, Dragon Water Cave, and the Seven Star Cave. The Crown Cave even includes tours by railroad car and underground riverboat tours.
If you are really looking for an outdoor adventure near Guilin, China, you may want to consider getting married on an authentic bamboo raft...lots of Chinese do!
The Flower-Filled Entrance to Museo Larco
The Museo Rafael Larco Herrera is a privately owned museum in Lima.
The main collection features Pre-Columbian art, including items from the Moche and Chimu civilizations, which I'd learned about while touring temples outside Trujillo.
A visit to Museo Larco was among the first things I did in Lima, and that's not because it houses a well-known collection of erotic pottery (yes it was).
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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.
Sights of Colombo, Sri Lanka
With around 6 million inhabitants, Colombo is not even close to being one of the larger cities in Asia - yet there's no denying that the city is full of vibrant energy and always action-packed!
The streets of central Colombo are characterized by bright colorful signs, streams of rickshaws, tons of pedestrians and rowdy buses that look like they plan to hit anything in their path.
One of the best ways to get in and out of Colombo is by train. The railroad cuts directly through Colombo and goes along the beautiful Sri Lankan coast!
Sri Lankan's are extremely friendly people and they enjoy having a great time. I've never been to a country where so many people actually ask to have their photo taken just for fun (not because they want a tip).
Theravada Buddhism is the predominant religion of Sri Lanka.
Gangaramaya Buddhist Temple is one of the most iconic religious places of worship in town.
Fruit of all kinds grows in abundance on the island of Sri Lanka. Mangoes and coconuts, in particular, are everywhere to be seen.
This fruit store at Colombo's Pettah market was stocked with a nice selection of bright yellow (almost overripe) mangoes.
In Colombo make sure to haggle for your fruit, and you'll get some great deals!
Viharamahadevi Park is the central and largest park in Colombo. It makes a fantastic place to spend a day of family time, picnicking and relaxation!
Just as depicted on the Sri Lankan national flag, the Sri Lankan lion is one of the famous symbols of the country. Though it became extinct many many years ago, its legend lives on.
Some of the most delicious Sri Lankan street food is available in the evenings along Colombo's coastline known as Galle Face.
Make sure to sample the rice and fish curry as well as the piping hot roti paratha flatbreads.
Every evening Galle Face comes alive with Colombo residents enjoying outdoor activities like flying kites, taking a walk, playing in the water or just soaking up the cool Indian Ocean breeze.
Gorgeous sunsets over the ocean are an everyday occurrence in Colombo.
One of the best places to grab a cool drink and gawk at the beautiful view is from an area of town known as Mount Lavinia.
Holiday Sale: 35% Off Travel Blog Success Memberships
[G]reetings from Lima! I'm about to fly back to the US to spend Christmas with family, but before I go, it's time for the annual TBS holiday sale.
Save 35% off a Premium Membership by joining the Trave Blog Success community this week.
Go to the site now through 7 pm (EST) December 23, 2011 and enter "tbs35" (minus the quotes) to get your lifetime membership at a big discount.
Benefits of joining as a Premium member include:
- Private Facebook support group, in addition to the TBS Forum. Myself, and several other full time bloggers are there to help answer questions 24/7.
- Monthly Coaching Calls where I'll be able to answer your questions live.
- 13 audio interviews with top travel bloggers, including Gary Arndt of Everything Everywhere and Benny the Irish Polyglot.
Since launching Travel Blog Success two years ago, over 200 travelers have joined the community.
Here's a small sample of the feedback I've received this year:
"Thanks also for the great info on the site. I'm learning so much." -- Kay
"I wanted to tell you I'm learning a lot from TBS. Really glad I joined." -- Juno
"I'm excited to be joining TBS. After doing some research I realized that enrolling in TBS is a logical step towards improving my chances of monetizing my newly created travel blog." -- Sam
I've got a bunch of great ideas to further grow and improve TBS in 2012.
Lock in your membership today, and you won't have to worry about potential price hikes.
Go to the Travel Blog Success site, enter "tbs35" as the discount code, and lets get this party started!
Happy Holidays,
Dave
[PS - On a personal note, with two weeks left in 2011, I'm on track to earn a healthy $45,000 this year. If you're not already familiar, I publicly report my travel blogging income on a quarterly basis.]
Renting Apartments in Lima, Peru
I booked my first apartment in Lima through an online, 3rd party service.
The simple, modern 1-bedroom apartment in trendy Miraflores was perfect fit for me, both in terms of size and budget.
It was also perfectly located between the cliffside shopping center of Larcomar, and Parque Kennedy. Plus, across the street were 4 quality restaurants, a pharmacy, and several ATM's.
The check-in process was straightforward. I met up with Giancarlo of Lima 4 Rent in the building's lobby, and we then went up to the apartment together.
Giancarlo whipped out his iPad, and after a quick check of the place, including the Wi-Fi, I paid for my full stay upfront in cash.
[US Dollars are the preference, as markup is added if you pay in Peruvian Soles because he then needs to change them back to Dollars anyways. Luckily, this is easy to do as most ATM's in Lima dispense US Dollars.]
My 8 nights in the apartment went by quickly, and I actually ended up renting a different, 2-bedroom apartment for 4 nights right before leaving for Cusco.
This time, I skipped the 3rd party site and booked direct with Giancarlo.
When I checked in to the second apartment, the Wi-Fi wasn't working, and after some troubleshooting, Giancarlo determined the problem to be with the router.
I was anxious about paying several hundred dollars for an apartment without working Wi-Fi, but he assured me it'd be fixed by the following morning, if not that night.
I paid, and crossed my fingers. True to his word, Giancarlo delivered a new router a few hours later, and I was up and running with Wi-Fi that worked perfectly the rest of my stay.
When it came time for my flight to Cusco, Giancarlo once again made it easy on me.
He offers rides to the airport for $25, which is more than you'll pay a taxi off the street, but I appreciated the added security of a private ride given I was traveling with all my stuff.
And, it's just easier to handle the check-in or check-out process when the person is also transporting you to the airport.
After Cusco, I paid for pick-up at the airport, as I was going to be renting the original apartment for a few weeks before Christmas.
I slipped back into it as if I'd been living there for years. And as I write this, I've already put a deposit down on the apartment for the week after Christmas (through New Year's).
I was really pleased to continue paying the same weekly rate of $360, even though I'd be renting around the holidays.
When all is said and done, I will have rented two apartments for a total of 4 weeks through Giancarlo and Lima 4 Rent, and I'm happy to recommend them to friends visiting the city as well.
Their website lists the available apartments, along with photos and rates to make picking the one that's right for you as easy as possible. Terms and Conditions are clearly listed on the reservations page.
Special Promotion: Pay for an 8-night stay, and you'll get a free night if you rent from them again in the future. The offer is good on the condition that you book at least 5 consecutive nights on your second visit.
Lastly, I want to mention Giancarlo has social media covered.
You can learn more about Lima, as well as the apartments and company, by joining them on Facebook, following the "Info Llama" on Twitter, and/or reading the blog.
If you've got any questions about my experience, or renting in Lima, leave a comment below.
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I received 2 complimentary nights in exchange for writing an honest review of my experience.
Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.
Pastoruri Glacier: Journey to 5,000 Meters
[P]astoruri Glacier is located a few hours from Huaraz, in Peru's Cordillera Blanca.
Those who have been following me since my 'round the world trip know I've got a fascination with creeping up to higher and higher elevations.
I can still remember when I thought hiking the Tongariro Crossing in New Zealand, which hits 1,800 meters, was a big deal.
Then I trekked in the Annapurna region of Nepal and got above 3,000 meters.
I quickly followed it up with the more treacherous 4-day Indrahar Pass trek in northern India to 4,320 meters.
Mountain biking Cotopaxi Volcano in Ecuador took me to 4,500 meters, but it'd be in Peru that I'd finally crack the 5,000 meter mark.
To be fair, driving to these heights is far, FAR easier than trekking to them, but it's still a thrill to watch the rugged scenery unfold before you.
The trip to Pastoruri Glacier started out with an uneventful drive south of Huaraz.
Slowly, but surely, we gained altitude. In total, we'd be going up 1,900 meters before lunchtime.
Once we hit the dirt road leading up the valley to the national park, and glacier, the landscape began to change more dramatically.
Trees and foliage gave way to open, desolate spaces claimed only by grasses, and a few hearty plants, including the Puya Raimondi (Queen of the Andes).
The parking lot for Pastoruri Glacier is located at an elevation of 4,800 meters, so the final bit must be walked....unless you opt to hire a horse, as many Peruvians choose to do.
The horses run a path parallel to the stone walkway that leads most of the way up to the glacier.
The immediate view of the glacier from the parking lot is unimpressive.
It looks like two flat fields of snow, however after a heart-thumping 30-40 minute walk uphill, you'll arrive at the foot of the glacier, and be treated to more epic views.
Along the walk up, I heard thunder crack in the distance. The sky grew grey, winds picked up, and hail began to pelt me from above.
I pushed on, reminded that even a 40-minute walk is an adventure at these altitudes.
By the time I reached the glacier, it was steadily snowing, and I was getting wet, having left my rain jacket in the van.
With only a few shirts and a fleece to keep me warm, I hurriedly took some photos by the glacier, which is rapidly shrinking due to global warming.
Even just a few years ago, local Peruvians would learn to ski and snowboard on Pastoruri, however those days are long gone. [gbicon]
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What You Need to Know
Visiting Pastoruri Glacier is an easy way to start the acclimatization process if you're planning to do any trekking or climbing in the region.
How Much: $22.50 + tip ($15 for transport/guide, $2 for park entrance, $5.50 for lunch)
Difficulty: Moderate
Where to Book: Tours are easy to arrange through any of the hostels, or offices located around Huaraz’s main plaza.
What to Bring: Camera, sunglasses, warm hat, and sunscreen. Dress in layers, and bring a waterproof jacket. Bring the jacket on your walk up to the glacier, even if the weather is clear when you arrive at the parking lot, as conditions can change quickly.
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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.
A "Day of the Dead" Visit to Huascaran, Peru's Tallest Mountain
I arrived in Huaraz (elev: 3,100 meters), at the foot of Peru's Cordillera Blanca, just as the rainy season was getting underway.
I didn't care.
This was the gateway to Peru's tallest mountains, including Huascaran at 6,768 meters (22,205 feet), and I wasn't going to miss it on my first visit to the country.
After all, it was here in the Huayhuash region that Joe Simpson's Touching the Void, a legendary tale of mountaineering and survival, took place.
It was the early morning, and despite catching a few hours' sleep on the overnight bus from Trujillo, I immediately closed the curtains and crashed on my bed in Hatun Wasi Hostel.
The following morning, I opened the curtains to a spectacular view of Huascaran looming on the distant horizon. I had to get closer.
At 3:23 PM on May 31, 1970, an undersea earthquake off the coast of Peru rattled the region for 45 seconds.
The force was strong enough to destabilize a large section of rock and glacial ice on the north face of Huascaran.
The resulting avalanche and landslide, traveling at approximately 300 kilometers per hour, buried Yungay and Ranrahirca in the valley below.
In Yungay alone, an estimated 20,000 people were killed. The Peruvian government later declared the original site of Yungay a national cemetery.
Day of the Dead, or Día de Muertos, is a religious holiday that originated in Mexico and is now celebrated throughout Latin America and the world every on the first and second day of every November.
The holiday focuses on gatherings of family and friends to remember loved ones who've passed away.
As fate would have it, I booked my day trip to Huascaran for November 1.
Old Yungay's cemetery was essentially a large, round series of several terraces, like a layer cake.
Built into each terrace were what appeared to be graves marked by small alcoves where flowers could be placed.
I was enamored with the dress of the local women. I'd already been exposed to it on the streets of Huaraz, but it seemed more fitting in the countryside.
The location of the old Yungay is now a memorial. A somber space filled with colorful rose gardens.
Walking around, it's hard not to take your eyes off the omnipresent Huascaran.
After the "sad" part of the tour, as our guide put it, we loaded up the minivan and zoomed toward the valley running along the east side of Huascaran.
The tour is billed as a visit to Laguna Chinacocha (elev: 4,420 meters), so the visit to Yungay had been a surprise.
After a short, off-road drive up the valley adjacent to Huascaran, we were deposited on the shores of the blue lagoon.
As I learned in New Zealand, mineral-rich, glacial lakes, lagoons, and rivers often have an otherworldly color.
Shades of blues and greens you won't find in other bodies of water.
What You Need to Know
You can visit old Yungay and Laguna Chinacocha independently or more easily as part of a group tour.
How Much: $20 + tip ($13 for transport/guide, $0.75 for old Yungay entrance, $1.75 for Huascaran park, $4.50 for lunch)
Difficulty: Easy
Where to Book: Tours are easy to arrange through any hostels or offices located around Huaraz's central plaza. If you're not fluent in Spanish, make sure you're getting an English-speaking guide.
What to Bring: Camera, sunglasses, hat, and sunscreen. There are plenty of vendors from which to buy snacks and water along the way.
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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.
10 Famous Beer Breweries to Visit Around the World
There’s a saying amongst travelers that if you want to get to know the locals, get to know their beer first.
Beer is the third most popular beverage in the world, beaten only by tea and water.
With this in mind, a great idea when traveling abroad is to work your way around some of the best cities in the world to visit that special place where the finest brews are made.
Germany
Perhaps the best place to start is a country famous for its beer, Germany.
Indeed, it is here that you will find some of the best breweries in the world among the 1,300 in operation, the highest number in any one country bar in the United States. The choices are, therefore, numerous.
Perhaps the Benedictine Abbey Weihenstephan Brewery in Freising, North Munich, is the most exciting place to start.
Established in 725, this is said to be the oldest brewery in the world.
Among its many favorite brews is Oettinger, which in 2004 surpassed Krombacher and became the best selling beer in the country.
Situated on the Holy Mountain that guards Lake Ammersee, the Andechs Monastery in Bavaria must come a close second for historical interest.
Indeed, this brewery has been something of a place of pilgrimage for beer culture enthusiasts since the Middle Ages.
For a small price, you can take the fascinating tour of the brewery and learn about the full history of the brewing process that has operated here for centuries.
You’ll also be able to see the state of the art facilities that have since replaced the previously used brewing equipment.
On a worldwide scale, however, perhaps the best known German beer is Becks.
Brewed on the riverbanks of Bremen, Becks, and its local counterpart, Haake Becks, have been created here since 1879.
Explore the whole process in a behind the scenes tour that will guide you through the brewing rooms to the fermentation tanks and malt silos, leaving you all the wiser as to how this beer has gained its worldwide reputation.
The Netherlands
Another country that is notorious for its love of beers is the Netherlands.
Heineken continues to dominate the scene throughout the country, and in Amsterdam, you have the opportunity to live the Heineken experience literally.
A historic brewery and visitor center, Amsterdam's Heineken Experience is open all year round.
Home to Heineken's operations since 1867, this brewery remained the beer's primary facility until 1988, when it was replaced by a modernized version built on the city's outskirts.
The Czech Republic
Neither of the above countries, however, can legitimately lay claim to inventing the stuff; this accolade rightfully goes to the Czech Republic.
The beer here is unbeatable throughout the country and is perhaps the reason why beer is consumed here more per capita than in other countries in the world.
For the best of the breweries here, visit Pilsen, where you can find the legendary homes of two of the world's most excellent beers, Pilsner Urquell and Gambrinus.
Denmark
For something a little different, try the Koenhavn brewpub in the heart of Copenhagen.
In essence, a 'microbrewery,' is also a popular restaurant and bar that is ideal for sampling the on-site brew in the relaxing atmosphere of the bar's beer garden.
The entire workings are housed in a 17th-century historic building.
Tours are available, but you may find you spend most of the time getting more acquainted with the brewery's 11 different beers available on tap.
Scotland
Alternatively, take off for Scotland, where you can enjoy the local brew in one of the most unique and notorious settings around the Loch Ness.
The area had lacked any brewing facilities until recently when two brothers, Allan and Stephen Crossland, decided to set up their brewery in the nearby Benleva Hotel.
Choose from aptly named, unique brews such as LightNESS, HappyNESS, WilderNESS, MildNESS or new additions DarkNESS and RedNESS - just don't overdo it, or you will be going home with tales of strange monsters lurking in the waters of this famous Loch.
The United States
Let's face it. You can't compile any list on a worldwide scale without including the USA.
Home to more breweries than anywhere else on the planet, it is not easy to choose which ones are the most worthy of a visit.
However, the home of the famous Budweiser brand is an excellent place to start and, of course, in the Coors Brewery, the Americans have the biggest brewery in the world, naturally.
The Anheuser-Busch Merrimack brewery, situated in the fabulous scenic countryside of New England, remains a favorite among brewery enthusiasts.
Visit the home of the infamous Budweiser Clydesdales, Clydesdale Hamlet, and take the tour of Brew Hall to find out how using only the highest quality ingredients make this beer one of the world's most favorite brews.
Special events are held at the Merrimack Tour Center throughout the year.
So to the biggest brewery, the famous Coors Brewery in Golden, Denver is capable of brewing a staggering 22 million barrels a year. Tours around the brewery are free and take about 30 minutes.
Included in the tour are the brewhouse and malthouse in addition to the mind-blowingly sophisticated packaging center.
Here you can witness how over 100 work teams are employed to produce this brew, one of the most popular in the world.
Ireland
Finally, many beer lovers the world over would agree that we have saved the best until last.
St. James Gate Brewery in Dublin was established in 1759 by Arthur Guinness and has been the home of 'the black stuff' ever since.
Fortunately, the site was leased for 9,000 years by Mr. Guinness, so there is no sign that this brewery will relinquish its title of the largest brewer of stout worldwide just yet.
Indeed, covering some 64 acres, the home of Guinness was the largest of all breweries until 1914.
Throughout the 19th century and early 20th, the brewery incorporated most of the surrounding buildings into its operations, making this one of the most extensive brewery tours you are ever likely to make.
Just don't forget to collect your free pint.
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This post was written in partnership with and brought to you by TravelSupermarket.com.
Joining the Society of American Travel Writers
Today I'm excited to share that I've been accepted into the Society of American Travel Writers (SATW).
The SATW is a professional association of North American travel writers, editors, photographers, publishers, and PR pros.
When I first came across the SATW a few years ago, it seemed only relevant to traditional print journalists and professional photographers.
Over this past Summer, however, I was encouraged to apply as the organization looked to attract bloggers into the fold.
The Society of American Travel Writers' mission is to promote responsible journalism, provide professional development for its members and encourage the conservation and preservation of travel resources worldwide.
Things are going swimmingly for me, so why did I go through the effort and cost to join?
It has been a little over 4 years since I left the highly structured corporate world to pursue my travels, and while I'm happy with how my self-development and life has evolved since then, I continue to look for ways to solidify this dream job as a pro travel blogger into a sustainable lifestyle and business.
The kind that can one day support not just me and my wanderings, but a family.
Or at least a spouse and a cute dog.
A few of the biggest benefits I saw to joining the Society of American Travel Writers include:
- Increased credibility
- Networking opportunities
- Chance to further my development as a travel writer
- Ability to help other members who are new to the world of blogging
Special thanks to Chris Gray Faust and Kara Williams for sponsoring me.
I first met Chris at a World Hum happy hour over two years ago in Washington, DC, when she was still working as the Travel Editor at USA Today. And I hope to meet Kara one day soon.
The SATW's tagline is Travel's Most Trusted Voices, and I'm proud to be their newest member. [gbicon]
Chan Chan: The Largest, Most Boring Pre-Columbian City in South America
Covering some 20 square kilometers of desert between Trujillo and the Pacific Ocean, the adobe city of Chan Chan was constructed by the Chimor civilization starting around 850 AD.
This was about the same time the Moche civilization, which created Huaca de la Luna and Huaca del Sol, went into decline.
Chan Chan was inhabited until 1470 AD when it was conquered by the Incas.
While Chan Chan may hold the coveted UNESCO World Heritage Site status, I found it to be far less interesting than the mountaintop ruins of Kuelap, and colorful Huaca de la Luna.
That said, the sheer scale of the city does leave one in awe.
During my tour, we walked around the Tschudi Complex. It was immense in and of itself, yet it is just one of a dozen palaces within the entire city.
What You Need to Know
You can visit Chan Chan as a ½ day trip, or like me, bundle it with a visit to Huaca de la Luna y Huaca del Sol in the morning. The pricing below is based on the full day trip.
How Much: $30 + tip ($16.50 for transport/guide, $1 for museum entrance, $3.50 for ticket to ruins, $5.50 for lunch, $3.50 for entrance to Chan Chan)
Difficulty: Easy
Where to Book: Tours are easy to arrange through any of the offices located around Trujillo’s main plaza. If you’re not fluent in Spanish, make sure you’re getting an English-speaking guide.
What to Bring: Camera, sunglasses, hat, and sunscreen. There are plenty of vendors from which to buy snacks and water along the way.
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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.
Moche Ruins: Huaca de la Luna y Huaca del Sol
[F]ollowing in the footsteps of my friends Jack and Jill, I departed Chachapoyas in the mountains of northern Peru for Trujillo further south along the coast.
As an aside, I took an overnight bus, which was far more comfortable, modern, and efficient than any bus I've taken in Colombia or Ecuador (or heck, even the USA and Europe for that matter).
Despite the comfort of fully reclining seats, I still found the first few hours of mountain roads to be nauseating.
Since leaving Colombia, I've been traveling without a guidebook for the first time in my entire life.
It has been a liberating experience, and far easier than I imagined. The result, though, is I'll often end up in a new city with only the vaguest idea of what do there. Hardly a bad thing if you've got the time to explore at a relaxed pace.
In Trujillo, I quickly discovered the main tourist attractions are the adobe ruins of two temples, Huaca de la Luna (Temple of the Moon) and Huaca del Sol (Temple of the Sun).
Both part of the former capital city of the Moche people, a civilization that ran from 100 AD to 800 AD, and was based at the foot of Cerro Blanco (White Mountain).
All group tours begin with a visit to the museum located near the ruins. Inside, you'll be able to see artifacts recovered the site, as well as learn about the Moche people and their practices. Information is presented in both English and Spanish.
From the museum, you'll also be able to get a good look and feel for how closely Huaca de la Luna was located to Cerro Blanco, a mountain which was clearly of significant spiritual importance to the Moche people.
While Huaca del Sol may be bigger than Huaca de la Luna, it is not nearly as well preserved, nor as colorful as the latter.
It is also not hollow, so visitors are only able to walk around it, not through it. Composed of an estimated 130 million adobe bricks, archaeologists estimate it's the largest pre-Columbian adobe structure in the Americas.
In between the two temples lay the capital city of the Moche people. Today, due to erosion and limited restoration, only vague outlines of some city structures can be seen.
The colorful, restored religious reliefs within Huaca de la Luna were an unexpected surprise.
Without the color, the ruins would've felt like a big pile of mud and sand. Hardly appealing to all but the most die hard archaeological fans.
Human sacrifices are known to have been a regular part of the Moche civilization. Why, you may wonder?
As I found upon arrival in Trujillo by bus, the coast of Peru (if not all of South America) is one long desert. Water is essential to life, and weather patterns such as El Nino may have exacerbated already dry conditions.
The Moche solution was to sacrifice people, which was considered a privilege at the time, to appease the Gods.
Huaca de la Luna is like a layer cake. The initial temple was just one layer tall. Eventually, that layer was used for graves, and the Moche people built a second layer on top of it.
This process continued up until the 6th or 7th layer. The various layers can be clearly delineated by the different images depicted on the exterior walls in the photo above. The giant hole punched in the middle of this exterior wall was due to looters.
The first layer shows a series of people connected by a rope or wooden structure at their shoulders. They were probably the laborers building the temple.
The fifth layer up from the ground reflects the form of a snake, an animal which would've had a certain religious significance to the Moche.
Between manmade damage from looters and erosion due to natural causes, Huaca de la Luna y Huaca del Sol have taken a beating over the centuries. But, they are still well worth the trip if you'll be passing through Trujillo.
What You Need to Know
You can visit Huaca de la Luna y Huaca del Sol as a ½ day trip, or like me, bundle it with a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Chan Chan in the afternoon. The pricing below is based on the full day trip.
How Much: $30 + tip ($16.50 for transport/guide, $1 for museum entrance, $3.50 for ticket to ruins, $5.50 for lunch, $3.50 for entrance to Chan Chan)
Difficulty: Easy
Where to Book: Tours are easy to arrange through any of the offices located around Trujillo's main plaza. If you’re not fluent in Spanish, make sure you’re getting an English-speaking guide.
What to Bring: Camera, sunglasses, hat, and sunscreen. There are plenty of vendors from which to buy snacks and water along the way.
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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.
Hiking the Longsheng Rice Terraces of China
Eager and excited to do some hiking and view some incredible mountain scenery, I boarded a bus from Guilin to Longsheng in Guangxi Province, China.
The bus driver chose to use his foghorn instead of his breaks as our public mini-bus screeched around mountain switchbacks, over tiny bridges and around completely blind turns.
In just a few hours I had traveled from the inspirational beauty of Yangshuo, to yet another breathtaking site: the Longsheng Dragon's Backbone rice terraces.
As soon as I stepped foot out the door of the bus, I was surrounded by a host of local Chinese women all trying to get hired to be my personal porter.
Despite the pleads of all the ladies, because I travel light, I opted to carry my backpack myself.
The Longsheng Rice Terraces are accessible only by foot.
After just 10 minutes of walking we arrived at the first small village - a few homes, some newly opened hotels and a slew of restaurants to cater to the growing tourism industry.
From the bottom of the terraces the view was gorgeous, but to get the greatest view I continued hiking up the winding rice trail to get to the top village of Dazhai.
It took about an hour to arrive at the guest house, a nicely designed Chinese equivalent of a wood cabin.
The entire guest house was made of varnished wood and there was a lovely porch with a stunning view over the mountain basin and the rice terraces.
One of the most popular things to do at Longsheng is to wake up early in the morning, hike to the very top viewpoint and watch the magnificent sun break through the clouds and shine on the various levels of rice.
Unfortunately, on the day I went, the clouds were a bit too strong and the sunrise wasn't nearly as amazing as it could have been.
However, I wasn't complaining with the view.
Due to the elevation, the weather at Longsheng was quite cool - so there was nothing that made me happier than returning to the guest house to order up a bowl of piping hot Guilin rice noodles topped with local Dazhai style smoked sausage.
I had heard Chinese people rave about the famous sausage before visiting, so I knew it was something I needed to eat.
The sausage lived up to its expectation, an extremely smokey flavor that delightfully flavored the entire bowl of noodles.
The main trail that winds through the terraces leads through a series of viewpoints - each with a Chinese dramatic dreamy name.
One of my favorite viewpoints while walking around was the "Thousand Layers to the Heavens."
Each viewpoint offered a chance to see the terraces from a different angle or side.
Many of the most beautiful attractions in China are represented by lots and lots of local Chinese tourists.
The Longsheng Rice Terraces were no different, but as I began to stray further and further from the main trails, I was able to lose most of the crowds and discover hidden places where few chose to hike.
Gazing at the neatly manicured steps of rice through the evergreen trees while breathing cool crisp air on the top of mountain ridges was truly a remarkable experience!
If you ever happen to visit Guilin, China, make sure to head over to Longsheng and Dazhai to catch a glimpse of this magnificent natural wonder.
Gocta Cataracts: The World's 3rd Tallest Waterfall
Visiting Gocta Waterfall, which is arguably the world's 3rd tallest at 771 meters (2,530 feet), is an easy day trip from Chachapoyas.
For $18, you can join a tour that includes roundtrip transportation in a minivan. The park entrance fee is another $2, and a fresh trucha (trout) lunch will run $3.50.
The hike from the drop-off point to the base of the waterfall takes an average of 2 hours, and there's a house with water and snacks for sale at the halfway point.
While it can seem like an easy hike, the altitude can slow you down if you haven't had a few nights to acclimatize in Chachapoyas (Elev: 2,300 meters) first.
The volume of water coming over the falls varies greatly based on the time of year.
I visited in October, before the start of the rainy season, so the water that was falling looked more like a cloud of mist than a heavy torrent.
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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.
Kuelap: Fortress Ruins in Northern Peru
One of the many reasons I chose to take the long, scenic route from Ecuador to Peru was so that I'd be in a good position to visit Kuelap, a Pre-Inca, Pre-Colombian, mountaintop fortress built by the Chachapoyans (know as the Cloud Forest people).
Little is known about Kuelap, though we do know through carbon dating that construction began in the 6th century AD, and the location was occupied until the mid 1500's.
To get there, we left Chachapoyas early in the morning, and drove 3 solid hours along steep, unpaved mountain roads until we arrived at the parking lot for the ruins.
From there, we had a short 10-minute walk to reach the fortress, though in total, we'd spend a whopping 3 hours touring the ruins.
Kuelap is strategically located atop a mountain 3,000 meters above sea level.
The first thing I noticed up there was the 360-degree, panoramic views.
You'd be hard pressed to build a fortress with a more commanding view of the countryside.
Within the walls of Kuelap are approximately 400 individual structures -- mostly circular in shape.
Within many of the structures, you can still see the smooth, worn stones used to grind food.
Among the more interesting tidbits relayed by our guide was how the Chachapoyans were excellent brain surgeons, and that skeletal evidence existed of the surgeries they'd perform.
At one point, he even moved aside a stone, in what appeared to be a mass tomb, to reveal human bones.
Someone on our tour mentioned just 24,000 people visit Kuelap each year.
Compare that to the 2,500 people that visit Machu Picchu each day, and you'll get a feel for how off the beaten track you'll be by visiting Kuelap in northern Peru.
As I write this entry, having been to Machu Picchu, I'm even more thankful that I had the chance to visit Kuelap first.
Aside from a few other tour groups from Chachapoyas, we had the entire 1,500 year old fortress ruins to ourselves.
What You Need to Know
How Much: $28 + tip ($22 for tour, $2 for park entrance, $4 for lunch)
Difficulty: Easy
Where to Book: Most hostels and travel shops in Chachapoyas. I used Andes Tours. If you're not fluent in Spanish, make sure you're getting an English-speaking guide.
What to Bring: A daypack, your own supply of snacks and water (we didn't eat lunch until 4 pm), sunglasses, sunscreen, several layers including a light jacket in case it rains.
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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.
Visiting Bangkok's Thrilling Chinatown
Bangkok's Chinatown, known as Yaowarat, is one of the most exciting places in town!
The area is alive and bustling at all hours of the day with busy markets, thriving businesses, and lots of restaurants. Stopping by and spending a little time in Yaowarat is a must when visiting Bangkok.
A Little History of Yaowarat
It was hundreds of years ago when a wave of Chinese migrated to Bangkok looking for new lives and jobs.
Because they weren't permitted to settle inside the walls of the Grand Palace, the Chinese moved just outside the central district on the road known as "Yaowarat."
The Chinese came to Bangkok as poor farmers, searching for a new way to make a living.
With a strict attitude to succeed, paired with the Chinese business savvy mindset, many of the Chinese in Bangkok worked their way into starting large scale businesses. Eventually, Yaowarat became the center of trade in Bangkok.
Today, Bangkok's Chinatown is one of the wealthiest areas of town.
Yaowarat Road is full of gold and jewelry stores, traditional Chinese medicine shops, and high-end food supply distributors.
You'll know exactly when you're in Yaowarat by the giant signs filled with Chinese characters, the flashy neon billboards, the scores of pedestrians, and the smells and sounds.
Street Food
Though Yaowarat does have its share of high-end Chinese Thai restaurants, the area is also known for its abundance and quality of Bangkok street food.
Every day at around 5 pm street vendors begin setting up their tables on the side of the road and preparing for another busy night of hungry customers.
From specialty Kuay Jab (rolled rice noodles) to the freshest seafood, Yaowarat is guaranteed to be stomach pleasing!
Exotic Dishes
After eating delicious street food, in my opinion, there's not a lot that's more fun than sampling exotic dishes.
Though it can be slightly pricey, Yaowarat is the place to go for bird's nest soup, durian (available year round), and roasted suckling pig!
Shopping
Though all of Bangkok is well known for its crazy amount of street shopping, the area around Yaowarat takes things to the next level.
The Sampeng Market in particular (a small lane that parallels Yaowarat Road) is a humongous open-air street market that stretches through the alley for a few kilometers.
The market is stuffed with every form of trinket imaginable - be careful of hot flaming snacks coming through the aisle!
Festivals
Anytime there's a Chinese oriented holiday, Yaowarat is the ultimate place to be in Bangkok
On Chinese New Years the streets around Chinatown are blocked from motorized traffic, and the road becomes a walking street filled with hundreds of vendors and thousands of pedestrians.
Though at times it can be overly hectic, there's nothing like being part of a massive crowd out to have a good time and to snack on all kinds of delicious things!
Another popular event in Yaowarat is Thailand's annual vegetarian festival.
Since the Chinese started the tradition, the center of the festival takes place in the heart of Yaowarat.
Every year hundreds of stalls set up serving top of the line vegetarian Thai food.
With so much to do and see (and eat), Yaowarat is one of the most exciting parts of Bangkok!
Travel in Sri Lanka: What To Expect
1. People
Sri Lankan people are extremely friendly. In fact, out of every country I've ever traveled to, Sri Lankans may be the most willing to have a short conversation or just say "hello." While traveling through the island you'll be asked "You are from?," countless times.
I have never been to a country where so many people have come out and asked me to take a photo of themselves - pretty cool!
On top of their friendly positive attitudes, many Sri Lankan are also hospitable. They will strive to take care of you and to make you feel welcomed in their country.
One of the best things about Sri Lanka is that you can just walk down the street and say hello to any random stranger passing by.
2. Food
A plate of rice topped with an array of colorful curries is the most popular meal to eat in Sri Lanka.
Fish and chicken are two curry favorites and daal (lentils) is eaten with almost every meal.
Other dishes include various forms of bread like paratha or roti (both flatbreads).
Kottu is a homegrown speciality made with slices of paratha (similar to a Mexican flour tortilla) stir fried into a Sri Lankan version of Chinese fried rice - but with bread instead of rice!
If you are a lover of all things coconut, you will be in heaven when you arrive in Sri Lanka.
All over the country you can grab a coconut to drink its water straight from the shell or enjoy a plate of freshly made pol sambola (blend of shredded coconut, chili and lime juice).
Sri Lankan's, just as many others around the world, love to eat deep fried snacks. Little snacky things are available in abundance throughout the country.
3. Transportation
Though there are many different kinds of transportation to choose from, if you want personal space and comfort you won't find it in Sri Lanka.
Buses don't drive until all seats are full and the aisle is stuffed to maximum capacity. Drivers proceed to accelerate and brake as fast and as jerky as they can.
If you are standing on a Sri Lankan bus, you better hold on for dear life, or you may go flying through the aisle at the next stop.
Trains can be a good way to travel around the country, but routes are limited and it's rather slow. There are a number of different classes, and you may even get your own seat!
Even though transportation is not the most comfortable, it's really cheap.
Normal buses in Colombo cost less than 30 LKR ($0.30) for a ride, and I took the train from Colombo to Kandy (3 hour ride) for just 105 LKR ($0.95).
4. Places to Visit / Things To See
Even though the island of Sri Lanka may seem small, I soon realized that there is so much to do and so many potential places to visit that it could takes months to see the entire country.
From pristine beaches to mountains and tea fields, the diversity of the country is huge. They say when you travel in Sri Lanka you will enter a new landscape every 30 minutes - and that's really true.
Looking out the window while riding a bus I observed as the flora and fauna changed drastically, then out of nowhere we'd come up on a cliff overlooking a valley or a winding jungle river.
Colombo is Sri Lanka's major city and entrance point, but from there it's easy to get all around the country and begin what is sure to be an amazing trip to Sri Lanka!
Top 3 Architectural Highlights of Rome
For a non-religious guy, I became fascinated by religious art in college.
Specifically, I was enamored with Italian Renaissance and medieval art and architecture.
Spending an hour or two per day in a dark classroom, looking at slides of the Virgin Mary, Christ, crucifixions and the churches and cathedrals that housed them made me happy.
When I traveled to Italy after college graduation, suddenly it was as if the pages of all those art books were coming alive.
I was finally able to walk through the naves I'd studied, and admire my favorite altarpieces and frescoes in 3-D.
It almost made me want to go back and look at schools for architecture.
Visiting Rome was a no-brainer for me then, and I'm thinking about a return for 2012.
Without further ado, here are my top three architectural highlights of the Italian capital.
The Colosseum
The Colosseum is the #1 symbol of Rome, if not all of Italy.
Construction on the Roman Empire's largest amphitheater began in 72 AD and was completed within just 8 years, by 80 AD.
Despite earthquakes over the centuries, it has maintained its form, which is a testament to the engineering involved in constructing it.
The ancient stadium was used to host fights between gladiators.
The lack of original flooring allows modern-day visitors to see the maze of hallways that rested underneath the area used for fighting.
In the movie Gladiator, for example, tigers are shown to be released through false doors in the ground.
The Pantheon
While not as well known or recognized as the Colosseum, the Pantheon is another testament to ancient architecture and engineering.
It was commissioned as a temple to the gods of Rome and built around 126 AD by Emperor Hadrian.
The main building is circular, and there's a Greek-style portico attached with 3 rows of 8 Corinthian columns.
The building has been repurposed often over its 2,000-year history.
It currently contains the tombs of famed Renaissance painter Raphael, as well as several Italian kings.
My favorite aspect of the Pantheon is the coffered dome, which has a circular opening at the top that allows a small stream of light to shine in the otherwise dark interior.
The Pantheon's dome is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome.
St. Peter's Basilica
Technically located within the Vatican City, St. Peter's Basilica has the largest interior space of any Christian church in the world.
And that's what I remember most about walking in the front door -- just how small I felt in comparison to its size and grandeur.
I craned my neck up to see streams of white light shooting down diagonally from the upper windows.
Unfortunately, when I visited in 1998, the entire front facade was covered in scaffolding as restoration work was being done.
Still, the interior is far more fascinating. And every visitor should take the opportunity to climb up the narrow, curved staircase that winds around the dome.
From the upper cupola, visitors are afforded sweeping 360-degree views of the Vatican City and Rome.
Happy Thanksgiving from Peru
[H]appy Thanksgiving from Cusco, heart of the historic Inca Empire.
On major American holidays like Thanksgiving, it feels like I'm living in a parallel universe if I'm anywhere outside the USA.
Yet, wherever find myself, be it traveling overland through South Africa (2008), living in Medellin (2010), or preparing for a trek to Machu Picchu (2011), I can't help but reflect on all the reasons I have to be thankful.
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In 2011, I'm Thankful For...
Health
My general good health, which allows me to keep on discovering new cultures and countries in South America, and the world.
Being robbed in Medellin this past June was a terribly frightening experience, and I'm especially thankful that no violence was involved.
I learned losing your passport isn't that big a deal. Sure, it'd be nice to have the stamps, but it was a lesson in letting go.
A few weeks, and a few hundred dollars later, I was holding my new one, a whole booklet of blank pages waiting to be stamped.
Family & Friends
I'm also thankful for the continued good health and support of my parents, brother, aunt, uncles and cousins.
I'm glad I went to my original home town of Pelham to see my cousin Amy get married.
Work
I mentally pinch myself daily that I'm in a position to support myself doing something I'm passionate about -- traveling, eating, writing, sharing, coaching.
It's a dream come true, and not a day goes by that I don't appreciate the opportunity to live and travel freely as a blogger.
Partners & Sponsors
I'm thankful there's no shortage of quality travel companies, sites, and services excited to do business with Go Backpacking.
I have several new partnerships in the works that I'm super excited about. Stay tuned for news on those in the coming months!
Travels
I kicked off the year with my first trip to Japan, and despite the winter chill, I had a wonderful time riding bullet trains around the country, dining on sushi, and spotting Geishas in Kyoto.
I'm thankful to have had another 6 months living and traveling in Colombia, followed by 2 months in Ecuador, including a week long cruise to the Galapagos Islands, and my current adventures in Peru.
Superstar Contributor Mark Wiens
Mark Wiens of Migrationology joined Go Backpacking as a Feature Blogger at the start of the year, and he has been contributing excellent articles weekly ever since. He's also written the Thailand, Kenya, and Egypt travel guides.
The experience has been so positive, that I'll be looking to bring on another blogger in 2012.
YOU -- The Readers
I keep going because of you. Honestly, I woudn't be preparing to enter my 6th year of travel blogging if you didn't continue to read, comment on, and share the stories, photos and videos published here.
And I'm extra thankful for the 2,000 new RSS & email subscribers who've joined us since last Thanksgiving.
In 2011, I'm Giving to...
Passports with Purpose
When you’re feeling appreciative of what you've got, it’s easy to start sharing with others.
Next week, on November 30, the 2011 Passports with Purpose fundraiser will kick off.
I'll be publishing a post to introduce this year's cause, as well as the prize I'm donating
Kiva
Through Kiva you can provide micro-loans for as little as $25 to small business owners in countries around the world.
I believe this is a terrific way to empower people, as well as give back to the countries and cultures I've gotten to know first hand.
And I'm proud to share Go Backpacking's lending team has provided $2,375 in loans so far.
Happy Thanksgiving! [gbicon]
Getting To Know Dublin, One Village at a Time
The bustling capital city of Ireland, Dublin, is attractive to a lot of different types of travelers, who come for its varied assortment of history, culture, and nightlife.
Modeled in many ways on its cosmopolitan sibling, London, the Fair City is made up of an assortment of smaller villages that surround the nuclear city center, where most of the action takes place.
Split virtually in half by the inky River Liffey, Dublin stretches into suburbia both north and south along the Irish Sea coast, where lovely towns and villages have their own atmospheres worth exploring.
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Dublin Villages
1. Temple Bar & Dame Street
The heartbeat of the city is Temple Bar, Dublin's cultural quarter and nightlife haven. Packed with pubs, bars, and restaurants, as well as cultural institutions like the Irish Film Institute, this Latin quarter is hard to pass up for those seeking 'round-the-clock entertainment.
Sure, the Irish music here can get a bit plastic and the pubs a bit splashed by the end of the night, but there's nothing like stumbling home to your hostel only a few feet away. Not really the place for those seeking a quieter sleeping experience.
2. North City Centre
Dublin's north side has always been a bit more gritty around the edges, with a strong work ethic and an inner-city vibe that has, admittedly, waned in recent decades.
The north side has come into its own with the arrival of many new Chinese immigrants who've set up shop along Parnell Street; meanwhile, the shiny spire on O'Connell Street now eclipses the Easter Rising bullet holes in the old General Post Office columns, which used to be the area's biggest claim to fame.
Exploring these distinct neighborhoods, from the historic North City Centre to the bustling Temple Bar, offers a comprehensive glimpse into Dublin's multifaceted character. For those looking to delve deeper into the country's heritage and discover all its charms, consider booking Ireland sightseeing tours to maximize your experience beyond the capital.
Plenty of hostels are to be found in the side streets off O'Connell Street, as well as a few nicer hotels right along the main drag itself.
3. Gardiner Street
If you've been to Dublin before, odds are you stayed on Gardiner Street. Arguably the most stocked area for hotels in Dublin, this long north-south street has been a veritable one-stop shop for accommodation, with guesthouses and hostels now residing in reconverted old Georgian homes.
Accommodation here can range from manky to passable, with nothing remarkable to write home about, but lots of choices and reasonable prices. You're also walking distance to just about everywhere in the city center.
4. Stephen's Green & Surrounds
The leafy south side streets that branch off from St. Stephen's Green, Dublin's tidiest municipal park, offer something of a slightly more gentrified air.
Perhaps it's the concentration of lawyers' offices and accounting firms along Harcourt Street and Leeson Street, but this is the place to find quaint older hotels fashioned from former Georgian homes, albeit a bit higher on the price scale. Plenty of posh restaurants around, too.
5. Rathmines
If you want to know where the real new Dubs live, check into one of the several hotels and guesthouses in the bustling village of Rathmines, home to perhaps Dublin's most ethnically diverse population.
In the 1980s, Rathmines was the place where underage locals could get served in pubs if they were tall enough and never quite shook off its gritty flavor. Lots of cafes, cheap and dingy pubs, and cheap shopping, as well as easy buses to the city center (or walkable, if you're fit).
6. Drumcondra
Ah, lovely Drumcondra. An oasis in otherwise grainy north side Dublin and a stone's throw from Croke Park, home to all things Dublin sport.
Drumcondra Village has a few pubs, including Quinn's, where fun rapidly descends into a meat market on a Thursday, but it's primarily concerned with leafy streets stocked with guesthouses where a good, quiet night's sleep is easy to find.
Make sure to take a walk through the National Botanic Garden of Ireland and see some of the historic gravestones at Glasnevin Cemetery.
7. Dun Laoghaire
This deliciously unpronounceable (try "Dun Leary") town sits south of Dublin City along the coast and boasts a gorgeous waterfront promenade replete with cozy pubs where local young professionals sip pints of cider on ice on a weekend.
On a sunny day, Dun Laoghaire is difficult to beat, with its cawing seagulls and dripping ice cream cones. There is also a major ferry port here, for those going onward to Britain or France by sea.
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About the Author: Travel writer and wanderluster, Megan Eaves, is the author of two travel guidebooks and runs the Irish travel webzine, irishjaunt.com. Having traveled to 25 countries and lived in four, she is an expert on Ireland, China, and the American Southwest, where she grew up, and also often writes about her adventures around Europe, especially London, where she is currently living.
10 Must-See Destinations for Backpackers in Southeast Asia
Southeast Asia casts an allure like no other. From pristine beaches to bustling cities and everything in between, this magical part of the world is hugely popular with backpackers the world over.
Picking a top 10 must-see destinations from Southeast Asia is no easy feat. In a region so varied, it's no real surprise that everyone has their favorite part.
Surely some of these would be on your list, however?
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Southeast Asia Destinations
1. Halong Bay, Vietnam
Ask any backpacker what the most unmissable sight is in Vietnam and Halong Bay, the countries breathtaking series of limestone islands and rocks that jut out the ocean to the north, will be firmly on their list.
Want to visit? Then book your hostel in Hanoi here
Home to over 3,000 islands of varying shapes and sizes, Halong Bay features some of the world's rarest species of flowers that grow amid its lush topography.
Catch a junker, tour the various islands and descend into the cracks and caves of its hidden lagoons for a chance to get up close and personal.
Hopping off at Bai Tu Long Bay, one of the larger parts of this UNESCO World Heritage site, is a must.
There you can climb stone mountains, wander through its mangrove forests or laze for a while on its long stretch of beach.
Thanks to the increasing popularity of Vietnam as a tourist destination, it's probably best to visit Halong Bay soon.
In the future, it might not be possible for everyone to squeeze into the enchanting caverns of places like Song Sôt cave.
Halong Bay (photo: Herr-Bert)
2. Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Southeast Asia's not short of temples, but there aren't many as memorable as Angkor Wat, Cambodia.
Heading there? Book a top-rated hostel here
This temple complex, dating back to the 12th century, features the world's largest religious building that is still active today with Buddhists and people of all faiths.
Crawl over the fallen and tree-covered ruins of Tah Prohm (made famous by the film Tomb Raider) for Indiana Jones-like adventures, take a tuk-tuk across the length and breadth of the complex, and don't miss the earth-shattering experience at sunset from the top of Bakheng Hill.
The nearby backpacker town of Siem Reap is heaps of fun too!
3. Boat Quay, Singapore
Singapore might not be the most budget-friendly of destinations but hanging out at Boat Quay, one of the country's oldest and most historical parts, is cheap enough and well worth whiling away a few hours.
Heat out at night for dizzying views of Singapore's financial might as its skyscrapers light up the rest of the city and cast their dimmers over the south bank of the river.
4. Lake Toba, Indonesia
Part lake, part volcano, Sumatra's Lake Toba (Danau Toba) is a geological wonder.
The site of a supervolcanic eruption that changed the world's climate and wiped out most of humanity over 69,000 years ago, things are a little more backpacker-friendly now!
Spend some time at Samosir Island and chill with the Batak people and the hot springs in the shadow of the looming giant lake.
5. Bangkok, Thailand
Thailand's got it all, fantastic beaches, beautiful people, and flavorful food.
But nowhere does its magic all come together more than in its capital, Bangkok.
Planning to visit? Then book your hostel in Bangkok here
While the true hippie mecca of Khao San road, in the middle of Bangkok, is a must for any self-respecting backpacker, it's also worth paying attention to the cities other glorious ages with a trip on the modern BTS Skytrain and a wander around the 19th-century temple of Wat Arun.
There's also Patpong if you fancy a spot of ping pong too. Just don't be expect to be playing!
6. Vientiane, Laos
Little known Laos may be slightly off the backpacking radar, but its capital Vientiane is bags of fun.
Book your Vientiane hostel here
Smaller than most other Southeast Asian capitals, its laid-back feel makes it great for hanging out and checking out sites like the funky (and weird) statues in Buddha Park.
The morning market at Talat Sao is a great place to pick up a nice bottle of snake wine too.
7. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Alongside Singapore, Malaysia's capital is one of the most international sites in Southeast Asia and a thriving hub of fantastic art, unbelievable architecture, and enough malls and shops to blow your entire backpacker budget.
Accommodation can still be cheap! Book your KL hostel here
Petaling Street, KL's bustling Chinatown, is a prime budget eating spot away from the glitzy restaurants and cafes of the Golden Triangle.
Head in early February, and you can catch the city in full swing during Thaipusam, the Tamil's ode to their hero Murugan killing the evil demon Soorapadam.
Dili (photo: yeowatzup)
8. Dili, East Timor
The coastal capital of the former Portuguese colony of East Timor, Dili, is somewhat of a forgotten paradise among tourists due to recent conflicts resulting from the end of its Indonesian occupation.
Today, however, Dili is a more peaceful place and features unmissable spots like at the top of the hill next to the statue of Cristo Rei, where you can see out across the whole of Timor and its beautiful beaches.
9. Hong Kong, China
Hong Kong's inclusion in a list of top Southeast Asian destinations as a key tourism hub of China might be a little debatable, but that's mostly beside the point.
With attractions like Victoria Peak, Tsim Sha Tsui, and Ocean Park, Hong Kong offers an unbeatable range of things to do.
Visiting Hong Kong? Book a cheap hostel here
Backpackers needn't be put off by Hong Kong's densely packed population; its expansive skyline makes for one of the most dazzling views on the whole of the continent.
10. Yangon (Rangoon), Burma
Having been shrouded in mystery for years due to the secrecy of its military government, Burma, and, more specifically, Rangoon, is exploding into life as a newly opened backpacking destination.
Flying in or out of Yangon? Book your hostel here
Its newness doesn't mean that there isn't much to see, however.
The 2500-year-old Buddhist shrine of Shwedagon Pagoda, Aung San Suu Kyi's house, and the national museum make for compelling viewing.
The beach at nearby Ngwe Saung is also one of the best and most unspoiled in the whole of Southeast Asia.
The above are just some of the incredible sights and attractions that you can see traveling around Southeast Asia.
You can also check out some of Go Backpacking's other top recommendations in its list of top destinations for 2011.
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About the Author: Will Peach is one of the site editors over at Gap Daemon, the gap year community website for backpackers and gap year travelers. You can also catch him writing about his latest adventures on his other blog, My Spanish Adventure, and Twitter.
Update on the Flood in Bangkok
Following the flood in Thailand is difficult, confusing…even when I live in Bangkok.
This massive body of excess water as well as the rise in overall water levels is swallowing parts of the city.
The city of Bangkok and its residents are on edge.
Yet even though millions of people are affected directly or indirectly, there are still many within the city that barely notice a sign of the flood.
As of now, my little studio apartment on the 3rd floor has been completely unaffected.
I still have electricity, fresh water, and there's no stagnant water that I have to wade through to leave or come.
The street food stalls still serve up their delicious dishes throughout the day and night, and cars, buses and motorcycles zoom through as usual.
But if you look around my neighborhood a little more closely, you'll notice walls built around businesses, sandbags piled in front of stores, and an abnormal amount of boats sitting in front of people's homes.
I walk into the nearest supermarket and the shelves are more and more empty by the day. There are still things to buy, but the extra stock of quantity that we're so used to seeing has dwindled away.
7-Eleven convenience store has been out of bottled water for weeks now (and even beer). Other beverages and certain snacks have also disappeared from shelves throughout Bangkok.
I wake up in the morning, peer off the edge of my balcony and look down the road to see if my soi (neighborhood street) has been drowned by the rising water levels.
Every day so far it has been clear. But such is not the case in so many parts of Bangkok.
With no television in my apartment I get on Twitter and check the #ThaiFloodEng feed for latest updates about the situation.
There's always a new intersection that's been overtaken or a new area of town that is now "bracing for floods."
Today I went to the giant wholesale fresh market, where I go to buy fruits and vegetables.
It was dry just 3 days ago when I had went, but today the lower parts of the market were flooded with up to a foot of water.
So I guess the question arises, should I still travel to Thailand now?
As of now Bangkok's main international airport is open and functioning as usual.
Officials seem to be doing everything they can to protect it from water. However there's only so much that humans can do to divert a giant amount of water.
While quite a lot of Bangkok continues to be affected by floods, there are still many parts that go on as normal.
Many of the popular tourist things to do in Bangkok and central business areas remain open but low areas and areas near the Chao Phraya river and canals have really been hit hard.
Everyone's a little more tense and no one knows exactly what will happen, or when this flood will be over.
So it's still possible to visit Bangkok, but at the moment it's just not the same as it was a month ago.
While I wouldn't fully recommend visiting Bangkok, there are still plenty of other places in the country like Chiang Mai or Krabi that are completely unaffected by the flood.
For over a month now the residents of Bangkok have been fighting the flood, dealing with its consequence, or just waiting around to see where to the water will go next.
So as I sit in my apartment scrolling through Twitter, I can only hope that the situation in other parts of town improves, that water levels begin to recede and that residents of Bangkok can soon get back to their lives.
Frightening as it is, no one knows just how long this water will remain in Bangkok. [gbicon]
Siargao Island: Not Your Typical Surfer's Paradise
The following is a guest post by Josh and Mulan.
If you enjoy exploring places whose beauty has not yet been spoilt by commercialism then maybe it is time for you to visit the tear drop shaped Siargao in the Philippines.
Siargao is not your typical surfer's paradise. For one, despite the fact that an annual international surfing competition has been held here in recent years, its beauty remains unspoiled by development.
In fact you will probably find this place very primitive compared to other island getaway destinations as there are no overbearing hotels or resorts littering its pristine white beaches.
Instead you will find are an assortment of shanties and huts all offering free Wi-Fi connection for to stay in ensuring that whilst you are cut off from fast paced living you can still update your travel blog.
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How to Get There
Siargao, the surfing capital of the Philippines, is famous for its cloud 9 wave.
To get there, you can take a plane from Manila to Surigao City which is the nearest city to Siargao itself.
Major airlines like Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific and Air Philippines have flights to and from Surigao City several times a week.
From Surigao airport, you will need to go to the main pier and ride a ferry heading to Dapa, the port of entry for the island.
The ferry ride will take between two and a half to five hours depending on the type of boat you select (The RORO is the slowest but also the most comfortable).
Cebu Pacific has direct flights from Cebu to Siargao three times a week. This happens to be the most convenient and least expensive way to travel.
Packing List for Siargao
1. Sunblock, sunblock, sunblock
2. Insect repellant
3. Your surfing gear
4. Your itsy bitsy bikini or board shorts
5. Bottled water
6. Money in local currencies (as there are still many establishments that do not accept credit cards and foreign currencies)
7. Camera
Best Places to Visit
1. General Luna
If your only purpose is to surf then GL is the place to be as this is where you will catch the best waves.
2. Sohoton Cave
Quite far from Siargao but definitely worth the tiring two-hour pump boat ride.
This lagoon/cave can only be accessed during low tide as it is submerged underwater most of the time.
If you're familiar with the beauty of the Palawan or Phi Phi islands then you should definitely head here for Sohoton is just as beautiful as those two.
3. Naked Island
Why Naked? The small island is basically a heap of fine white sand. Even trees and shrubs are non-existent.
That is why it generally feels hotter compared to nearby places as there is no respite from the sun.
You can walk the entire island in just a few minutes.
4. Dacu Island
Compared to the famous (and crowded) Boracay Island, Dacu provides a better ambiance.
The bright emerald color of the water, the powder-like white sand and the romantic sunset views are some of the best on offer.
Add to that the fact it is just a few leaps from General Luna and you will never tire of this setting.
5. Mamon Island
Situated near La Janoza Island. In between these two islands you will find an ideal place for snorkeling. The corals are simply breath-taking.
From General Luna, you'll need an hour to reach this spot by pump boat so plan ahead.
Things to Do
1. Surf in the early morning
You'll be impressed to see local kids as young as 8 years old surfing like pro's and pulling off some pretty audacious moves.
If you are new to surfing, have one of the locals teach you how to paddle out and balance on a surfboard. Don't miss this opportunity to hit the waves or you'll make a million surfers cry!
2. Visit Tiktikan Lake
This lake is included in the Sohoton Tour package. There is an entrance fee of Php 10 per person. If you would like to explore more by riding a boat, there is an additional fee of Php 5. The lake is vast and very calm. It is also incredibly scenic so take your camera if possible.
3. Swim with stingless jellyfish
Similar to the Jellyfish Lake in Palau, it is possible to swim with jellyfish in Sohoton Cave without fear of being stung by them.
At first, swimming with a school of jellyfish might feel awkward or weird as they will swarm you like bees but this is one experience that you should not miss and better than swimming with old faithful who was caught a couple of islands over some 80 years ago.
There are so many things to enjoy in Siargao. It is no wonder that surf enthusiasts from all over the world keep coming back year after year.
In fact, a decent number of foreigners have built businesses there and now live on the island year-round which tells you something about the place.
And before you leave, don't forget to buy a few bottles of the specialty mango rum, you won't be disappointed.
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About the Author - Josh and Mulan run the travel blog www.londonlaunchpad.com which deals with their adventures around London and the world beyond. Connect with them at any time for travel chat, tips, and advice on the website or at London Launchpad Facebook.
The Sandwich in Laos That's Worthy of a Pilgrimage
Where can you find the best sandwiches on earth?
Would you go to Italy for their scrumptious selection of hams and deli meats, or to the United States for gigantic meat and cheese filled subs, or even to Chile for an outstanding churrasco completo?
I'm going to take you on a little culinary journey to SE Asia, land of (mostly) rice and noodles - and a sandwich so good, it's worthy of a pilgrimage.
Ok, I can't claim this is the absolute best sandwich in the world...but I can safely say that it's just about the best thing wrapped in bread that I have ever experienced in my life.
To get to this sandwich of wonders requires a visit to the relaxing country of Laos, and more specifically, to the quiet central town of Savannakhet.
There's not a lot to do in this town, in fact, a few hours of walking around and you'll have seen just about everything there is to offer.
About the only reason you'd want to stay longer is to take full advantage of the sandwich that will seduce you.
When I first arrived at the small restaurant in central Savannakhet, all I was after was a cup of stout Vietnamese style iced coffee (they make it the same in Laos - under the order of the French).
But then I observed a table of Laotians ordering food, and when I smelled and saw what came to their table, I had ordered breakfast without even thinking about it.
It didn't take long for the outdoor sidewalk restaurant to be unleashing heavenly aromas into the entire neighborhood.
The sweet perfume of sizzling beef mixed with their secret sauce and ingredients was so overwhelming that I had to sit on my hands to refrain myself from grabbing the cook's food right out of the pan.
It was a true test of patience, waiting that long five minutes for my sandwich to arrive. But then it came.
Within just a few moments, I had devoured the entire mini-baguette, without even taking a single photo. Good thing I immediately ordered another one!
This time, though I was still just as excited as before, I was willing to take my time, shoot plenty of food porn photos and do a little dissection to find out what was inside.
It all began with tender slices of choice beef marinated in a sweet soy sauce, sesame seeds, and stalks of green onion.
The cook first added the beef to a scorching hot pan, and let the meat cook in its own juices until it was done, but not overcooked.
Slicing open a fresh crusty baguette, she added the beef into the bread. With the beef juices still coating the pan, she cracked an egg and let it fry until it was just barely done, yet still beautifully runny.
The egg was placed on top of the beef along with a few sprinkles of this and that and a generous scoop of chili flakes.
Every bite was an enlightening mouthful of pleasure in its purest form.
If you do make it to Savannakhet, Laos, all you need to remember is that you can find this sandwich right across the street from the tallest building (a bank) in town.
Go in the morning for breakfast.
Short Term Apartment Rentals with Wimdu (Part 2)
This is part two of a two-part review of Wimdu.com. I was provided with a voucher for the purpose of reviewing their services during my stay in Lima, Peru. All opinions are my own. Click here to read part one.
I met Giancarlo, the property manager for the Lima apartment I picked from Wimdu, last Thursday afternoon.
The one-bedroom unit located in the upscale Miraflores neighborhood looked just as it did in the photos.
After a quick tour, I paid the $150 security deposit (using Peruvian Soles), confirmed my ability to access the Wi-Fi, and began to enjoy my first short term apartment rental.
Towels were provided, but there was no toilet paper or hand soap, so I picked up both, along with a Glade air freshener and some groceries (juice, milk, cereal, snacks).
I was surprised to find the act of staying in an apartment versus a private hostel room or hotel made me feel more akin to being an expat in Lima than a tourist just passing through.
At first, that feeling threw me for a loop, and I wasn't sure whether I wanted to feel like an expat. I experience a place more slowly when I'm living there, yet I only planned to be in Lima for a few weeks.
I made the mistake of drinking a glass of tap water the first night and paid for it the next morning at 4 AM with an unpleasant case of traveler's diarrhea.
Being sick abroad always sucks, especially if you've yet to make friends where you are when it happens. On the plus side, I was happy to have a private, comfortable place to recover.
On the downside, I found that living in the apartment can be an isolating experience. Aside from greeting the doormen, there was nobody around to talk to in person.
For that reason alone, I thought apartment rentals might be better suited for friends traveling together, or couples, versus a solo traveler like myself.
Once I started feeling better, I began to eat out in Lima's wonderful restaurants, and see a few of the local sights.
When I was full of energy once again, the isolation of renting an apartment in a big, new city didn't bother me as much.
The rooftop had terrific 360-degrees of the city, including the ocean which was a 10-minute walk away, however, the jacuzzi didn't look too appealing.
I didn't end up using the pool either, though it looked more inviting, and was certainly an effective selling point when I was reviewing properties.
The day before I was due to checkout, I confirmed a meeting time with Giancarlo. The following day, he came to the apartment.
After a quick inspection to ensure there were no damages beyond normal wear and tear, he refunded my security deposit in US Dollars.
My preference was to receive Soles, but he'd forgotten, and I hadn't reminded him.
Lesson learned -- if there's the potential for leaving a deposit in two different currencies, remind the property manager of which you prefer at the end of your stay to avoid any confusion.
Overall, my first use of Wimdu to rent a short term apartment went well. It was easy to find and book a property online, and the act of staying in an apartment made me feel more like a resident than a tourist.
I'm already thinking of renting the apartment again for the week I'm in Lima between Christmas and New Year's Eve.
Inspirational Beauty of Yangshuo, China
My most recent trip to China was a month-long visit to Yangshuo, a small town surrounded by karst mountains in Guangxi Province.
The dramatic landscapes and beautiful scenery in the area have inspired the works of countless Chinese artists throughout history.
Here's a small collection of my favorite photos from Yangshuo, China.
It's a grueling 30-minute vertical hike to the top of TV Tower, but the view of Yangshuo town and the surrounding area is absolutely gorgeous!
Yangshuo is one of the most popular destinations for Chinese tourists.
Every weekend the population of the town swells with locals getting away from the big city and coming to the countryside.
Just moments from the city center is the rural countryside where farms of rice exist in the midst of the kast mountains.
Biking in Yangshuo is one of the most entertaining activities around, and there are countless ancient farming villages to discover.
In some of the ancient villages around Yangshuo, there are still plenty of people living in nearly the same way as generations of their ancestors did.
It's fantastic to see the traditional rural side of China as contrasted from the high paced modern life in China's major industrial cities.
One of the many outdoor things to do in Yangshuo includes taking a traditional bamboo raft down the Yulong River.
Pictured above is a crew of Chinese tourists riding bamboo rafts and shooting each other with water guns!
Just a few kilometers from the center of town is a famous lotus patch.
I stopped at the lotus farm to eat a few of the showerhead looking flowers and drink a cool beverage made from lotus nuts and peanuts.
Rice is still life in Guangxi Province, and many people from the area are farmers.
This lady loaded a huge amount of rice chaff on her cart before she rolled it off down the road.
One of the most famous things to eat in Yangshuo is Guilin noodles.
This colorful medley of rice noodles is topped with a variety of tasty toppings and spiced up with a spoon full of dry chili flakes.
When the sun began to decline it casts spectacular shadows and shades of light on the jagged karst mountains of Yangshuo, China.
It's a perfect place to sit back with a cup of Chinese tea and enjoy the beauty. [gbicon]
10 Must See Destinations For Backpackers in Europe
This post was written in partnership with TravelSupermarket.com.
Europe contains many places that are stunningly beautiful, profoundly fascinating, or significantly important.
Some destinations are all of the above!
While any list of 'must-see' places can only ever be subjective and open for debate, the following ten must-see destinations are certainly up there with the most exceptional Europe has to offer.
Table of Contents
1. The Ruins of Pompei, Italy
A visit to the ruins of Pompei in the south of Italy is a genuinely moving experience.
Preserved beneath layers of volcanic ash, the everyday life of the city's inhabitants in the 1st century AD is there for all to see.
Disaster struck in AD79 when the volcano exploded, and as well as the ruins of houses, shops, and temples are the bodies of people who tried to flee the onslaught in vain.
2. Venice, Italy
Still, in Italy but much further north, the popular city break destination of Venice is sadly under threat.
Built on more than a hundred small islands and crisscrossed by myriad waterways, this beautiful city is sinking by two and a half inches a decade.
There are elaborate plans to save it, but geological shifting may well eventually triumph, so see it while you can.
The architecture is stunning. There are endless waterfront buildings, with gondolas gliding past.
Venice's main thoroughfare is the Grand Canal.
It was called 'the most beautiful street in the world' in the 15th century by the French king's ambassador, and many would say it still is.
3. The Alhambra Palace, Spain
The Alhambra Palace at Granada in Spain is more of a fortified city than a palace.
Building began in 1238, as a secure and prestigious residence for the Nasrid King, el Ahmar.
It has been added to since then, and today, visitors can walk throughout the complex, taking a magnificent journey through centuries of architecture.
Grand buildings contain secluded courtyards with tranquil fountains.
Views of the surrounding countryside are framed in beautiful and delicately carved windows.
If you visit in July, you might be lucky enough to get tickets for one of the performances at the annual Music and Dance Festival.
4. The Eiffel Tower, France
Perhaps one of the most iconic structures in Europe, the Eiffel Tower was built for the World Fair, held in Paris in 1889.
Its designer, Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, only ever intended for it to stand for 20 years, but the fate of this giant structure has been different.
It's 324 meters high and contains more than 18,000 pieces of wrought iron. It's open to the public every day, and those who go up it are guaranteed the best views of Paris.
5. Schloss Neuschwanstein, Germany
Down in the south of Germany, the Bavarian Alps are home to Schloss Neuschwanstein, a giant castle that looks like it comes straight out of a fairytale.
It was built in the 19th century for King Ludwig II, who surprisingly only ever spent 11 nights here.
It's one of the most photographed buildings in the world and contains many sumptuously furnished and decorated rooms.
6. Christmas Markets, Germany
If your backpacking itinerary should find you in Germany during the winter, you really should visit one of the traditional Christmas Markets.
Held in several towns and cities across the country, including Cologne, Munich, Bonn, and Frankfurt, these are an antidote to the usual plastic commercialism that prevails in the run-up to the festive season.
Traditional craftwork such as carved items, candles, and wooden toys are on sale, and there are plenty of stalls selling authentic German food as well as hot mulled wine.
The outdoor markets usually start in the last week of November and run right through to Christmas Eve.
Opening times are from 10 am to 9 pm daily.
7. Brandenburg Gate, Germany
If the Eiffel Tower is a leading symbol for France, perhaps Germany's equivalent is the Brandenburg Gate.
Built in Berlin in 1791, it was the impressive entrance to the grand boulevard of Unter den Linden, leading to the Prussian palace.
However, by the 20th century, the Gate was a symbol of the division between East and West during the Cold War, lying along the route of the infamous Berlin Wall.
When the Wall fell in 1989 during the peaceful revolution that ended the Cold War, the Brandenburg Gate was opened once more, and the people of Berlin could travel freely from East to West.
8. The Northern Lights, Norway
The next place all backpackers should head for isn't a place at all, though you'll need to travel into the Arctic Circle in Norway to see it.
The Northern Lights are an awe-inspiring sight and can show themselves in various ways.
Sometimes, three green bands appear across the sky; at others, there's more of a flickering curtain of lights.
Along with the main color of green, you can see pinks and violets too.
You need to visit between the autumn and spring equinoxes (21 September and 21 March) to see the Northern Lights and be warned, patience is required.
Sometimes you'll be rewarded with a display that lasts for hours, but at other times, nothing can be seen.
Set aside a week in the area if you can, and you'll stand the best chance of seeing this miracle of nature.
9. The Globe Theatre, England
Meanwhile, in the UK capital of London, the Globe Theatre is a great place to see performances of the human variety.
It's an accurate reconstruction of the original playhouse built in 1599, where Shakespeare's plays were first performed in the open air.
The season runs from April to October and includes works by the great Bard himself, as well as those of his contemporaries such as Ben Jonson and those by modern playwrights too.
The audience gets the full Elizabethan experience, either from a seat in the gallery or by standing in the central yard as a 'groundling'.
10. Stonehenge, England
A must for anyone with any hippy credentials, Stonehenge is a collection of huge pre-historic standing stones near Salisbury in the UK county of Wiltshire.
No one knows why it was built or who built it. Various theories have been put forward.
It may have been a temple dedicated to worshipping the sun, or a burial site, or perhaps a giant calendar.
Equally puzzling is how the people who made it managed to transport and erect the stones using only the most primitive equipment that would have been available to them.
The above attractions are only some of the fantastic sights that can be enjoyed when traveling around Europe.
There are plenty of other things to see and do during your travels, so if you are still in the process of planning your 2012 holidays, you may want to check out some of the attractions and countries listed above.
Vilcabamba to Chachapoyas: An Ecuador-Peru Border Crossing
Crossing international borders overland is always a thrill, whether they be hectic and filled with hustlers out to game you, or so quiet you wonder if you're in the right place.
The longer the journey, the more remote the border, the greater the adventure.
And if given the option, I prefer to make these crossings alone, as was the case with leaving Nepal for India, and more recently, leaving Ecuador for Peru.
The following instructions are based on those provided courtesy of Hosteria Izhcayluma in Vilcabamba, Ecuador.
They were generally accurate. However, the duration of each leg of travel will vary depending on road delays and weather.
The cost will vary depending on your patience and ability to negotiate.
The information in this post is based on my experience in October 2011.
Table of Contents
- Reasons to Cross the Border at La Balsa
- Day 1, Part 1 - Vilcabamba to Zumba
- Day 1, Part 2 - Zumba to La Balsa
- Day 1, Part 3 - Crossing the Border
- Day 1, Part 4 - La Balsa to San Ignacio
- Day 1, Part 5 - Spending the Night in San Ignacio
- Day 2, Part 1 - San Ignacio to Jaen
- Day 2, Part 2 - Jaen to Bagua Grande
- Day 2, Part 3 - Bagua Grande to Chachapoyas
Reasons to Cross the Border at La Balsa
- More relaxed (i.e. few, if any hustlers) than the main crossing on the Pan American Highway
- A more direct route to Chachapoyas, and a whole region of ruins in Northern Peru
- Off the beaten track
Day 1, Part 1 - Vilcabamba to Zumba
Duration: 5 hours
Cost: $6.50
The bus from Vilcabamba to Zumba is called Cooperativa "Sur Oriente," and it passes in front of Hosteria Izhcayluma between 6 - 6:30 AM daily.
I saw the bus rumbling up the road at 6:05 AM, held out my hand, and jumped aboard.
Ecuador's main highways are well paved, and even where they aren't, road work is underway to improve them.
Such was the case on the road leading South out of Vilcabamba toward Zumba.
There were sections of freshly laid concrete for about 45 minutes to an hour, but after that, it's all dirt roads winding up and around the mountains.
Day 1, Part 2 - Zumba to La Balsa
Duration: 1.5 hours
Cost: $1 or $2 for the local "Ranchera" bus (open-air like a chiva), or $20 for a private 4 x 4 taxi
Much to my surprise, my bus to Zumba arrived at 11 AM, which was one to two hours earlier than I'd been lead to expect.
As you can tell from the photo at the top, there's not much going on in Zumba.
I took a bathroom break, bought ice cream, and paid for a private taxi to take me to the border.
The taxi was a large, comfortable, yellow pick-up truck.
I tried to make some small talk with the driver in Spanish, but his accent made it difficult to understand him.
We were driving through the southernmost mountains of Ecuador.
It was beautiful, but at the same time, eerily remote. My mind wandered to horror movie-inspired "what if" scenarios.
I imagined how easy it would be for the driver to rob me and leave me stranded on the side of the road, or worse.
It's not that I don't know it'd be safer (and cheaper) to travel with a group of other travelers, but that's not always an option.
I wasn't going to wait around in Vilcabamba out of fear alone.
Day 1, Part 3 - Crossing the Border
Duration: 1 hour
Cost: $0
A river marks the border between Ecuador and Peru at the La Balsa crossing.
The taxi driver stopped right in front of the Ecuador immigration office. I paid him his $20 and immediately got the exit stamp from Ecuador.
I ducked under the yellow, blue, and red-painted bamboo border gate and walked toward the bridge.
The reports from my fellow travelers were right; this was a super tranquil border crossing.
It reminded me of my border crossing from Cambodia into Southern Laos, minus the goats.
I approached a jovial group of guys standing under some shade on the Ecuadorian side of the bridge.
In Spanish, I asked if they could take my photo. One of them agreed, and I handed him my camera, only to see him start to run toward the bridge.
Instinctively, my heart began to pound, until I saw him stop after a few meters, and turn around with a big smile.
Of course, his friends all broke out in laughter at the joke he'd just played on the gringo.
Once on the Peruvian side, I walked into the Immigration office. Salsa music was playing on the radio.
I commented to the official how much I enjoyed salsa, and he assured me I'd hear plenty of it in Peru.
I filled out the necessary form and was instructed to walk toward a policeman who was hanging out at a nearby restaurant.
The policeman, in turn, leads me down to a little building (visible to the far left in the photo above), where he did something on a computer and instructed me to go back to the Immigration office.
The Immigration officer asked me how much time I needed in Peru. I asked for three months, he gave it to me, and I was on my way.
Day 1, Part 4 - La Balsa to San Ignacio
Duration: 1.5 hours
Cost: $5.54 total ($1.10 rickshaw + $4.44 colectivo)
I changed about $10 for Peruvian Soles with a snack vendor and then tried to negotiate with the only colectivo driver there.
I kept trying to ask how much it'd cost to San Ignacio, but he wasn't giving a clear response.
I eventually caught him smiling and winking at the snack vendor, and realized he was playing around with me.
Annoyed, I asked a rickshaw driver for help, and he explained that it's cheaper to take a colectivo from the nearby town.
He offered to take me there for 3 Soles ($1.10), which turned out to be a fair price. If I wasn't already covered in a thin film of dirt, that rickshaw ride ensured it.
As we bounced down the road, my mind once again wandered to grisly "what if" scenarios.
This time, I reminded myself that the vast majority of people in this world are honest and kind. Functional societies depend on it.
After 10 - 15 minutes, we arrived in the nearby town, and I was dropped at a corner with several white colectivo cars.
I didn't have to wait more than 10 minutes before a group of Peruvians arrived, and we piled into the car.
Two women and a child up front, and two men plus me in the back. It was comfortable until the driver stopped to pick up another woman.
Stuffing another adult into the back seat made it uncomfortable for all four of us.
Day 1, Part 5 - Spending the Night in San Ignacio
Duration: 16 hours
Cost: $18.50 private room + dinner
Eventually, we pulled into San Ignacio around 3 PM. It's a basic hill town, and there's not much to see.
My instructions had two recommendations for accommodations, Hostal "La Posada" (Basic) and "Gran Hotel."
I opted for the Gran Hotel, which was spacious and comfortable. However, the Wi-Fi was not working at the time.
I ate dinner in the adjacent restaurant, and breakfast the following morning was included with the room.
There's a bank around the corner from Gran Hotel, but when I visited, the security guard informed me there was no ATM, or if there was, it didn't take foreign cards.
I asked if there was another place in town. Nope!
So I walked to the city center, and asked around, eventually making my way to shoe shop, that doubled as a currency exchange office.
I was already aware of the exchange rate and was surprised to get an incredibly fair price for the $130 I wanted to change.
The commission for the Peruvian woman helping me was nearly zero.
Day 2, Part 1 - San Ignacio to Jaen
Duration: 3 hours
Cost: $7.40
I asked the hotel to schedule me a colectivo to Jaen for 8 AM, and it arrived more or less on time.
About an hour outside of San Ignacio, the dirt roads gave way to paved asphalt for the first time since Vilcabamba.
The hotel staff had informed me Jaen was the best place to get a new SIM card for my phone.
I was anxious to get my new number and mobile internet set up, so I took the time to visit a Movistar office.
It turned out to be a complete waste of time and money. The office was busy, and I had to spend at least an hour there.
I paid for a new SIM card for my Blackberry, and pre-paid minutes for the internet, only to find out later at another Movistar office in Chachapoyas that you can only buy prepaid internet for Blackberries purchased in Peru. Mine was from the USA.
Lesson Learned: If you're destined for Chachapoyas, take care of your mobile phone needs there. Both Movistar and Claro have offices, you won't need to pay for rickshaw rides, and it's a far more relaxed environment than in Jaen.
Day 2, Part 2 - Jaen to Bagua Grande
Duration: 1 hour
Cost: $3.70
My colectivo driver for this leg played romantic Latin ballads. He was tough-looking on the outside, but a softy at heart.
Day 2, Part 3 - Bagua Grande to Chachapoyas
Duration: 3 hours
Cost: $8.14
Bagua Grande was the first point in the two-day adventure, where I had to wait around more than a few minutes for a ride.
I left my main backpack with a colectivo and offered to pay for a second passenger if it meant a more spacious ride, and we could go sooner rather than later.
I walked to a convenience store next door to get some water and snacks. But really, I was walking int someone's house.
A young girl came out of the kitchen to help me. As I picked out my items and paid, I was being sized up by her older sister, or perhaps aunt.
But not that much older. I'd soon find out she was 21, and not at all shy. It turned out she lives in Lima but was visiting her family in Bagua Grande.
It wasn't long before she was writing down her phone number and email address for Facebook, while her mother looked on.
Flattered, I took her info and gave her my card and then left to get a proper lunch at the adjacent bus station.
About an hour later, my colectivo was heading down the final stretch to Chachapoyas, with me in the front seat.
The colectivo pulled into Chachapoyas just as the sun was setting on day two.
Tired, and uninterested in shopping around, I took a room at Hostal Revash, which was another recommendation by the guys in Vilcabamba.
Total Cost = about $70
But it can be done for half that if:
- you're more patient than me
- take the Ranchera from Zumba
- stay at a cheap hostel in San Ignacio
How to Spend 24 Hours in Guayaquil
Everyone I talked to said the same thing -- spend as little time in Guayaquil as possible.
I considered their advice and did the opposite by purposefully spending a long weekend in Ecuador's largest (and arguably, most dangerous) city.
Despite Guayaquil's size, it's got very few hostels. I booked a hotel in the city center, a few blocks from the riverside.
The good news for tourists visiting Guayaquil, either en route to/from the Galapagos Islands or the Pacific Coast, is that there's just enough to do to keep you busy for 24 hours.
Stay longer, and it might help to have some friends in town.
Table of Contents
Things to Do in Guayaquil
Parque Seminario (aka The Iguana Park)
It just so happened that my hotel was located adjacent to Parque Seminario, also known as Iguana Park, on account of the land iguanas that hang out there.
The idea of giant lizards hanging out in an urban park struck me as odd and piqued my curiosity.
It's as surreal in person as it sounds. Giant land iguanas mingling with pigeons. Being fed by locals and tourists alike and lounging in the grass.
During your visit, you can also take a peek inside the large gothic cathedral, Catedral de Guayaquil, at the west end of the park.
Related: Best Hostels in Guayaquil
Malecon 2000
Parque Seminario is a three-block walk to the Malecon 2000, a major urban renewal project along the old Simon Bolivar boardwalk.
The Malecon runs one and a half miles along the riverside in the city center and is best walked in the early morning or late afternoon when the sun isn't so strong.
Between both the fencing that separates it from the street and the strong showing of security guards, the Malecon is generally safe to walk both day and night.
That said, it's still best to exercise precautions and not walk alone past dark.
The southern section of the Malecon features a modern underground mall and a few restaurants.
The middle is filled with historical monuments, parks, and places for kids to play.
And at the north end, you'll find an IMAX theater and several museums.
Related: Guayaquil Travel Guide
Dinner & Drinks in Las Penas
If you choose to walk the Malecon 2000 in the early evening, start in the south, so you end up in Las Penas for happy hour.
This historic and colorful neighborhood is home to various shops, bars, lounges, and restaurants.
Walk the 400 numbered stairs to the lighthouse at the top, and you'll be treated to expansive views of the city, as well as a little exercise.
You can easily wrap up the night here, especially on the weekends, with dinner and dancing.
Las Penas, like the Malecon, is generally safe at night.
You can either call an Uber on the main street near the entrance when you're ready to call it quits.
Shopping in Guayaquil
Most visitors to Guayaquil, Ecuador, will spend their time by the riverside.
However, it's also worth noting that there are several modern shopping malls near the airport and bus terminal in the north.
These malls, including San Marino and Mall del Sol, feature department stores and plenty of smaller shops and boutiques.
The restaurants range from TGI Fridays to more upscale options, serving fresh sushi and ceviche.