Blog - Go Backpacking

Renting Apartments in Lima, Peru

The kitchen in my Lima apartment — The kitchen in my apartment at Ave. 28 de Julio

I booked my first apartment in Lima through an online, 3rd party service.

The simple, modern 1-bedroom apartment in trendy Miraflores was perfect fit for me, both in terms of size and budget.

It was also perfectly located between the cliffside shopping center of Larcomar, and Parque Kennedy. Plus, across the street were 4 quality restaurants, a pharmacy, and several ATM's.

The check-in process was straightforward. I met up with Giancarlo of Lima 4 Rent in the building's lobby, and we then went up to the apartment together.

Giancarlo whipped out his iPad, and after a quick check of the place, including the Wi-Fi, I paid for my full stay upfront in cash.

[US Dollars are the preference, as markup is added if you pay in Peruvian Soles because he then needs to change them back to Dollars anyways. Luckily, this is easy to do as most ATM's in Lima dispense US Dollars.]

My 8 nights in the apartment went by quickly, and I actually ended up renting a different, 2-bedroom apartment for 4 nights right before leaving for Cusco.

This time, I skipped the 3rd party site and booked direct with Giancarlo.

When I checked in to the second apartment, the Wi-Fi wasn't working, and after some troubleshooting, Giancarlo determined the problem to be with the router.

I was anxious about paying several hundred dollars for an apartment without working Wi-Fi, but he assured me it'd be fixed by the following morning, if not that night.

I paid, and crossed my fingers. True to his word, Giancarlo delivered a new router a few hours later, and I was up and running with Wi-Fi that worked perfectly the rest of my stay.

When it came time for my flight to Cusco, Giancarlo once again made it easy on me.

He offers rides to the airport for $25, which is more than you'll pay a taxi off the street, but I appreciated the added security of a private ride given I was traveling with all my stuff.

And, it's just easier to handle the check-in or check-out process when the person is also transporting you to the airport.

After Cusco, I paid for pick-up at the airport, as I was going to be renting the original apartment for a few weeks before Christmas.

I slipped back into it as if I'd been living there for years. And as I write this, I've already put a deposit down on the apartment for the week after Christmas (through New Year's).

I was really pleased to continue paying the same weekly rate of $360, even though I'd be renting around the holidays.

When all is said and done, I will have rented two apartments for a total of 4 weeks through Giancarlo and Lima 4 Rent, and I'm happy to recommend them to friends visiting the city as well.

Their website lists the available apartments, along with photos and rates to make picking the one that's right for you as easy as possible. Terms and Conditions are clearly listed on the reservations page.

Special Promotion: Pay for an 8-night stay, and you'll get a free night if you rent from them again in the future. The offer is good on the condition that you book at least 5 consecutive nights on your second visit.

Lastly, I want to mention Giancarlo has social media covered.

You can learn more about Lima, as well as the apartments and company, by joining them on Facebook, following the "Info Llama" on Twitter, and/or reading the blog.

If you've got any questions about my experience, or renting in Lima, leave a comment below.

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I received 2 complimentary nights in exchange for writing an honest review of my experience.

Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.

Pastoruri Glacier: Journey to 5,000 Meters

Puya Raimondi are found in the higher elevations of the Peruvian Andes, and can grow from 4 to 8 meters in height

[P]astoruri Glacier is located a few hours from Huaraz, in Peru's Cordillera Blanca.

Those who have been following me since my 'round the world trip know I've got a fascination with creeping up to higher and higher elevations.

I can still remember when I thought hiking the Tongariro Crossing in New Zealand, which hits 1,800 meters, was a big deal.

Then I trekked in the Annapurna region of Nepal and got above 3,000 meters.

I quickly followed it up with the more treacherous 4-day Indrahar Pass trek in northern India to 4,320 meters.

Mountain biking Cotopaxi Volcano in Ecuador took me to 4,500 meters, but it'd be in Peru that I'd finally crack the 5,000 meter mark.

To be fair, driving to these heights is far, FAR easier than trekking to them, but it's still a thrill to watch the rugged scenery unfold before you.

Take the time to hold a soft baby animal in Peru, whether it be a llama, alpaca or goat

The trip to Pastoruri Glacier started out with an uneventful drive south of Huaraz.

Slowly, but surely, we gained altitude. In total, we'd be going up 1,900 meters before lunchtime.

Once we hit the dirt road leading up the valley to the national park, and glacier, the landscape began to change more dramatically.

Trees and foliage gave way to open, desolate spaces claimed only by grasses, and a few hearty plants, including the Puya Raimondi (Queen of the Andes).

Hail and snow fall over Pastoruri Glacier

The parking lot for Pastoruri Glacier is located at an elevation of 4,800 meters, so the final bit must be walked....unless you opt to hire a horse, as many Peruvians choose to do.

The horses run a path parallel to the stone walkway that leads most of the way up to the glacier.

The immediate view of the glacier from the parking lot is unimpressive.

It looks like two flat fields of snow, however after a heart-thumping 30-40 minute walk uphill, you'll arrive at the foot of the glacier, and be treated to more epic views.

Along the walk up, I heard thunder crack in the distance. The sky grew grey, winds picked up, and hail began to pelt me from above.

I pushed on, reminded that even a 40-minute walk is an adventure at these altitudes.

Pastoruri Glacier is shrinking due to global warming. 5 years ago, I would've been standing on the glacier when taking this picture.

By the time I reached the glacier, it was steadily snowing, and I was getting wet, having left my rain jacket in the van.

With only a few shirts and a fleece to keep me warm, I hurriedly took some photos by the glacier, which is rapidly shrinking due to global warming.

Even just a few years ago, local Peruvians would learn to ski and snowboard on Pastoruri, however those days are long gone. [gbicon]

Visitors are no longer allowed to walk on the glacier, however you're still allowed to take a bite out of it (literally)

GPS puts me at 5,020 meters (16,467 feet) above sea level

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What You Need to Know

Visiting Pastoruri Glacier is an easy way to start the acclimatization process if you're planning to do any trekking or climbing in the region.

How Much: $22.50 + tip ($15 for transport/guide, $2 for park entrance, $5.50 for lunch)

Difficulty: Moderate

Where to Book: Tours are easy to arrange through any of the hostels, or offices located around Huaraz’s main plaza.

What to Bring: Camera, sunglasses, warm hat, and sunscreen. Dress in layers, and bring a waterproof jacket. Bring the jacket on your walk up to the glacier, even if the weather is clear when you arrive at the parking lot, as conditions can change quickly.

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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

A "Day of the Dead" Visit to Huascaran, Peru's Tallest Mountain

Huascaran, as seen from my hostel in Huaraz

I arrived in Huaraz (elev: 3,100 meters), at the foot of Peru's Cordillera Blanca, just as the rainy season was getting underway.

I didn't care.

This was the gateway to Peru's tallest mountains, including Huascaran at 6,768 meters (22,205 feet), and I wasn't going to miss it on my first visit to the country.

After all, it was here in the Huayhuash region that Joe Simpson's Touching the Void, a legendary tale of mountaineering and survival, took place.

It was the early morning, and despite catching a few hours' sleep on the overnight bus from Trujillo, I immediately closed the curtains and crashed on my bed in Hatun Wasi Hostel.

The following morning, I opened the curtains to a spectacular view of Huascaran looming on the distant horizon. I had to get closer.

Memorial / gravesite in Yungay — The memorial/gravesite for the thousands who died in Yungay and Ranrahirca after the 1970 earthquake, and the resulting avalanche

At 3:23 PM on May 31, 1970, an undersea earthquake off the coast of Peru rattled the region for 45 seconds.

The force was strong enough to destabilize a large section of rock and glacial ice on the north face of Huascaran.

The resulting avalanche and landslide, traveling at approximately 300 kilometers per hour, buried Yungay and Ranrahirca in the valley below.

In Yungay alone, an estimated 20,000 people were killed. The Peruvian government later declared the original site of Yungay a national cemetery.

Peruvian women in traditional dress pay their respects on the Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead, or Día de Muertos, is a religious holiday that originated in Mexico and is now celebrated throughout Latin America and the world every on the first and second day of every November.

The holiday focuses on gatherings of family and friends to remember loved ones who've passed away.

As fate would have it, I booked my day trip to Huascaran for November 1.

Old Yungay's cemetery was essentially a large, round series of several terraces, like a layer cake.

Built into each terrace were what appeared to be graves marked by small alcoves where flowers could be placed.

I was enamored with the dress of the local women. I'd already been exposed to it on the streets of Huaraz, but it seemed more fitting in the countryside.

View of Huascaran from the old Yungay — View of Huascaran from Yungay's old city center, which was destroyed by the 1970 avalanche

A mangled bus was left as a memorial to those who died

The location of the old Yungay is now a memorial. A somber space filled with colorful rose gardens.

Walking around, it's hard not to take your eyes off the omnipresent Huascaran.

In the shadow of Huascaran mountain — In the shadow of Huascaran

After the "sad" part of the tour, as our guide put it, we loaded up the minivan and zoomed toward the valley running along the east side of Huascaran.

The tour is billed as a visit to Laguna Chinacocha (elev: 4,420 meters), so the visit to Yungay had been a surprise.

After a short, off-road drive up the valley adjacent to Huascaran, we were deposited on the shores of the blue lagoon.

As I learned in New Zealand, mineral-rich, glacial lakes, lagoons, and rivers often have an otherworldly color.

Shades of blues and greens you won't find in other bodies of water.

What You Need to Know

You can visit old Yungay and Laguna Chinacocha independently or more easily as part of a group tour.

How Much: $20 + tip ($13 for transport/guide, $0.75 for old Yungay entrance, $1.75 for Huascaran park, $4.50 for lunch)

Difficulty: Easy

Where to Book: Tours are easy to arrange through any hostels or offices located around Huaraz's central plaza. If you're not fluent in Spanish, make sure you're getting an English-speaking guide.

What to Bring: Camera, sunglasses, hat, and sunscreen. There are plenty of vendors from which to buy snacks and water along the way.

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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.

10 Famous Beer Breweries to Visit Around the World

There’s a saying amongst travelers that if you want to get to know the locals, get to know their beer first.

Beer is the third most popular beverage in the world, beaten only by tea and water.

With this in mind, a great idea when traveling abroad is to work your way around some of the best cities in the world to visit that special place where the finest brews are made.

Table of Contents

Germany
The Netherlands
The Czech Republic
Denmark
Scotland
The United States
Ireland

Germany

Perhaps the best place to start is a country famous for its beer, Germany.

Indeed, it is here that you will find some of the best breweries in the world among the 1,300 in operation, the highest number in any one country bar in the United States. The choices are, therefore, numerous.

Perhaps the Benedictine Abbey Weihenstephan Brewery in Freising, North Munich, is the most exciting place to start.

Established in 725, this is said to be the oldest brewery in the world.

Among its many favorite brews is Oettinger, which in 2004 surpassed Krombacher and became the best selling beer in the country.

Situated on the Holy Mountain that guards Lake Ammersee, the Andechs Monastery in Bavaria must come a close second for historical interest.

Indeed, this brewery has been something of a place of pilgrimage for beer culture enthusiasts since the Middle Ages.

For a small price, you can take the fascinating tour of the brewery and learn about the full history of the brewing process that has operated here for centuries.

You’ll also be able to see the state of the art facilities that have since replaced the previously used brewing equipment.

On a worldwide scale, however, perhaps the best known German beer is Becks.

Brewed on the riverbanks of Bremen, Becks, and its local counterpart, Haake Becks, have been created here since 1879.

Explore the whole process in a behind the scenes tour that will guide you through the brewing rooms to the fermentation tanks and malt silos, leaving you all the wiser as to how this beer has gained its worldwide reputation.

The Netherlands

Another country that is notorious for its love of beers is the Netherlands.

Heineken continues to dominate the scene throughout the country, and in Amsterdam, you have the opportunity to live the Heineken experience literally.

A historic brewery and visitor center, Amsterdam's Heineken Experience is open all year round.

Home to Heineken's operations since 1867, this brewery remained the beer's primary facility until 1988, when it was replaced by a modernized version built on the city's outskirts.

The Czech Republic

Neither of the above countries, however, can legitimately lay claim to inventing the stuff; this accolade rightfully goes to the Czech Republic.

The beer here is unbeatable throughout the country and is perhaps the reason why beer is consumed here more per capita than in other countries in the world.

For the best of the breweries here, visit Pilsen, where you can find the legendary homes of two of the world's most excellent beers, Pilsner Urquell and Gambrinus.

Denmark

For something a little different, try the Koenhavn brewpub in the heart of Copenhagen.

In essence, a 'microbrewery,' is also a popular restaurant and bar that is ideal for sampling the on-site brew in the relaxing atmosphere of the bar's beer garden.

The entire workings are housed in a 17th-century historic building.

Tours are available, but you may find you spend most of the time getting more acquainted with the brewery's 11 different beers available on tap.

Scotland

Alternatively, take off for Scotland, where you can enjoy the local brew in one of the most unique and notorious settings around the Loch Ness.

The area had lacked any brewing facilities until recently when two brothers, Allan and Stephen Crossland, decided to set up their brewery in the nearby Benleva Hotel.

Choose from aptly named, unique brews such as LightNESS, HappyNESS, WilderNESS, MildNESS or new additions DarkNESS and RedNESS - just don't overdo it, or you will be going home with tales of strange monsters lurking in the waters of this famous Loch.

The United States

Let's face it. You can't compile any list on a worldwide scale without including the USA.

Home to more breweries than anywhere else on the planet, it is not easy to choose which ones are the most worthy of a visit.

However, the home of the famous Budweiser brand is an excellent place to start and, of course, in the Coors Brewery, the Americans have the biggest brewery in the world, naturally.

The Anheuser-Busch Merrimack brewery, situated in the fabulous scenic countryside of New England, remains a favorite among brewery enthusiasts.

Visit the home of the infamous Budweiser Clydesdales, Clydesdale Hamlet, and take the tour of Brew Hall to find out how using only the highest quality ingredients make this beer one of the world's most favorite brews.

Special events are held at the Merrimack Tour Center throughout the year.

So to the biggest brewery, the famous Coors Brewery in Golden, Denver is capable of brewing a staggering 22 million barrels a year. Tours around the brewery are free and take about 30 minutes.

Included in the tour are the brewhouse and malthouse in addition to the mind-blowingly sophisticated packaging center.

Here you can witness how over 100 work teams are employed to produce this brew, one of the most popular in the world.

Ireland

Finally, many beer lovers the world over would agree that we have saved the best until last.

St. James Gate Brewery in Dublin was established in 1759 by Arthur Guinness and has been the home of 'the black stuff' ever since.

Fortunately, the site was leased for 9,000 years by Mr. Guinness, so there is no sign that this brewery will relinquish its title of the largest brewer of stout worldwide just yet.

Indeed, covering some 64 acres, the home of Guinness was the largest of all breweries until 1914.

Throughout the 19th century and early 20th, the brewery incorporated most of the surrounding buildings into its operations, making this one of the most extensive brewery tours you are ever likely to make.

Just don't forget to collect your free pint.

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This post was written in partnership with and brought to you by TravelSupermarket.com.

Joining the Society of American Travel Writers

Today I'm excited to share that I've been accepted into the Society of American Travel Writers (SATW).

The SATW is a professional association of North American travel writers, editors, photographers, publishers, and PR pros.

When I first came across the SATW a few years ago, it seemed only relevant to traditional print journalists and professional photographers.

Over this past Summer, however, I was encouraged to apply as the organization looked to attract bloggers into the fold.

The Society of American Travel Writers' mission is to promote responsible journalism, provide professional development for its members and encourage the conservation and preservation of travel resources worldwide.

Things are going swimmingly for me, so why did I go through the effort and cost to join?

It has been a little over 4 years since I left the highly structured corporate world to pursue my travels, and while I'm happy with how my self-development and life has evolved since then, I continue to look for ways to solidify this dream job as a pro travel blogger into a sustainable lifestyle and business.

The kind that can one day support not just me and my wanderings, but a family.

Or at least a spouse and a cute dog.

A few of the biggest benefits I saw to joining the Society of American Travel Writers include:

Increased credibility
Networking opportunities
Chance to further my development as a travel writer
Ability to help other members who are new to the world of blogging

Special thanks to Chris Gray Faust and Kara Williams for sponsoring me.

I first met Chris at a World Hum happy hour over two years ago in Washington, DC, when she was still working as the Travel Editor at USA Today. And I hope to meet Kara one day soon.

The SATW's tagline is Travel's Most Trusted Voices, and I'm proud to be their newest member. [gbicon]

Chan Chan: The Largest, Most Boring Pre-Columbian City in South America

Restored ruins in one of the palaces of Chan Chan

Covering some 20 square kilometers of desert between Trujillo and the Pacific Ocean, the adobe city of Chan Chan was constructed by the Chimor civilization starting around 850 AD.

This was about the same time the Moche civilization, which created Huaca de la Luna and Huaca del Sol, went into decline.

Chan Chan was inhabited until 1470 AD when it was conquered by the Incas.

One of the typically bleak and bland views within Chan Chan

Chan Chan in Peru — Restored adobe walls in Chan Chan mimic the look of distant mountains

While Chan Chan may hold the coveted UNESCO World Heritage Site status, I found it to be far less interesting than the mountaintop ruins of Kuelap, and colorful Huaca de la Luna.

That said, the sheer scale of the city does leave one in awe.

During my tour, we walked around the Tschudi Complex. It was immense in and of itself, yet it is just one of a dozen palaces within the entire city.

This natural reservoir was the only spot of color during my visit to Chan Chan

What You Need to Know

You can visit Chan Chan as a ½ day trip, or like me, bundle it with a visit to Huaca de la Luna y Huaca del Sol in the morning. The pricing below is based on the full day trip.

How Much: $30 + tip ($16.50 for transport/guide, $1 for museum entrance, $3.50 for ticket to ruins, $5.50 for lunch, $3.50 for entrance to Chan Chan)

Difficulty: Easy

Where to Book: Tours are easy to arrange through any of the offices located around Trujillo’s main plaza. If you’re not fluent in Spanish, make sure you’re getting an English-speaking guide.

What to Bring: Camera, sunglasses, hat, and sunscreen. There are plenty of vendors from which to buy snacks and water along the way.

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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.

Moche Ruins: Huaca de la Luna y Huaca del Sol

[F]ollowing in the footsteps of my friends Jack and Jill, I departed Chachapoyas in the mountains of northern Peru for Trujillo further south along the coast.

As an aside, I took an overnight bus, which was far more comfortable, modern, and efficient than any bus I've taken in Colombia or Ecuador (or heck, even the USA and Europe for that matter).

Despite the comfort of fully reclining seats, I still found the first few hours of mountain roads to be nauseating.

Since leaving Colombia, I've been traveling without a guidebook for the first time in my entire life.

It has been a liberating experience, and far easier than I imagined. The result, though, is I'll often end up in a new city with only the vaguest idea of what do there. Hardly a bad thing if you've got the time to explore at a relaxed pace.

In Trujillo, I quickly discovered the main tourist attractions are the adobe ruins of two temples, Huaca de la Luna (Temple of the Moon) and Huaca del Sol (Temple of the Sun).

Both part of the former capital city of the Moche people, a civilization that ran from 100 AD to 800 AD, and was based at the foot of Cerro Blanco (White Mountain).

Huaca de la Sol is situated at the base of Cerro Blanco (White Mountain)

All group tours begin with a visit to the museum located near the ruins. Inside, you'll be able to see artifacts recovered the site, as well as learn about the Moche people and their practices. Information is presented in both English and Spanish.

From the museum, you'll also be able to get a good look and feel for how closely Huaca de la Luna was located to Cerro Blanco, a mountain which was clearly of significant spiritual importance to the Moche people.

View of Huaca de Sol from Huaca de la Luna. In between the two temples was the capital city of the Moche.

While Huaca del Sol may be bigger than Huaca de la Luna, it is not nearly as well preserved, nor as colorful as the latter.

It is also not hollow, so visitors are only able to walk around it, not through it. Composed of an estimated 130 million adobe bricks, archaeologists estimate it's the largest pre-Columbian adobe structure in the Americas.

In between the two temples lay the capital city of the Moche people. Today, due to erosion and limited restoration, only vague outlines of some city structures can be seen.

Restoration work is an ongoing process inside Huaca de la Luna

Restored frescoes inside Huaca de la Luna

The colorful, restored religious reliefs within Huaca de la Luna were an unexpected surprise.

Without the color, the ruins would've felt like a big pile of mud and sand. Hardly appealing to all but the most die hard archaeological fans.

Human sacrifices are known to have been a regular part of the Moche civilization. Why, you may wonder?

As I found upon arrival in Trujillo by bus, the coast of Peru (if not all of South America) is one long desert. Water is essential to life, and weather patterns such as El Nino may have exacerbated already dry conditions.

The Moche solution was to sacrifice people, which was considered a privilege at the time, to appease the Gods.

An exterior view of Huaca de la Luna, showcasing its growth (in layers) over time

Huaca de la Luna is like a layer cake. The initial temple was just one layer tall. Eventually, that layer was used for graves, and the Moche people built a second layer on top of it.

This process continued up until the 6th or 7th layer. The various layers can be clearly delineated by the different images depicted on the exterior walls in the photo above. The giant hole punched in the middle of this exterior wall was due to looters.

The first layer shows a series of people connected by a rope or wooden structure at their shoulders. They were probably the laborers building the temple.

The fifth layer up from the ground reflects the form of a snake, an animal which would've had a certain religious significance to the Moche.

Between manmade damage from looters and erosion due to natural causes, Huaca de la Luna y Huaca del Sol have taken a beating over the centuries. But, they are still well worth the trip if you'll be passing through Trujillo.

What You Need to Know

You can visit Huaca de la Luna y Huaca del Sol as a ½ day trip, or like me, bundle it with a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Chan Chan in the afternoon. The pricing below is based on the full day trip.

How Much: $30 + tip ($16.50 for transport/guide, $1 for museum entrance, $3.50 for ticket to ruins, $5.50 for lunch, $3.50 for entrance to Chan Chan)

Difficulty: Easy

Where to Book: Tours are easy to arrange through any of the offices located around Trujillo's main plaza. If you’re not fluent in Spanish, make sure you’re getting an English-speaking guide.

What to Bring: Camera, sunglasses, hat, and sunscreen. There are plenty of vendors from which to buy snacks and water along the way.

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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

Hiking the Longsheng Rice Terraces of China

Eager and excited to do some hiking and view some incredible mountain scenery, I boarded a bus from Guilin to Longsheng in Guangxi Province, China.

The bus driver chose to use his foghorn instead of his breaks as our public mini-bus screeched around mountain switchbacks, over tiny bridges and around completely blind turns.

In just a few hours I had traveled from the inspirational beauty of Yangshuo, to yet another breathtaking site: the Longsheng Dragon's Backbone rice terraces.

As soon as I stepped foot out the door of the bus, I was surrounded by a host of local Chinese women all trying to get hired to be my personal porter.

Despite the pleads of all the ladies, because I travel light, I opted to carry my backpack myself.

The Longsheng Rice Terraces are accessible only by foot.

After just 10 minutes of walking we arrived at the first small village - a few homes, some newly opened hotels and a slew of restaurants to cater to the growing tourism industry.

From the bottom of the terraces the view was gorgeous, but to get the greatest view I continued hiking up the winding rice trail to get to the top village of Dazhai.

It took about an hour to arrive at the guest house, a nicely designed Chinese equivalent of a wood cabin.

The entire guest house was made of varnished wood and there was a lovely porch with a stunning view over the mountain basin and the rice terraces.

One of the most popular things to do at Longsheng is to wake up early in the morning, hike to the very top viewpoint and watch the magnificent sun break through the clouds and shine on the various levels of rice.

Unfortunately, on the day I went, the clouds were a bit too strong and the sunrise wasn't nearly as amazing as it could have been.

However, I wasn't complaining with the view.

Due to the elevation, the weather at Longsheng was quite cool - so there was nothing that made me happier than returning to the guest house to order up a bowl of piping hot Guilin rice noodles topped with local Dazhai style smoked sausage.

I had heard Chinese people rave about the famous sausage before visiting, so I knew it was something I needed to eat.

The sausage lived up to its expectation, an extremely smokey flavor that delightfully flavored the entire bowl of noodles.

The main trail that winds through the terraces leads through a series of viewpoints - each with a Chinese dramatic dreamy name.

One of my favorite viewpoints while walking around was the "Thousand Layers to the Heavens."

Each viewpoint offered a chance to see the terraces from a different angle or side.

Many of the most beautiful attractions in China are represented by lots and lots of local Chinese tourists.

The Longsheng Rice Terraces were no different, but as I began to stray further and further from the main trails, I was able to lose most of the crowds and discover hidden places where few chose to hike.

Gazing at the neatly manicured steps of rice through the evergreen trees while breathing cool crisp air on the top of mountain ridges was truly a remarkable experience!

If you ever happen to visit Guilin, China, make sure to head over to Longsheng and Dazhai to catch a glimpse of this magnificent natural wonder.

Gocta Cataracts: The World's 3rd Tallest Waterfall

Visiting Gocta Waterfall, which is arguably the world's 3rd tallest at 771 meters (2,530 feet), is an easy day trip from Chachapoyas.

For $18, you can join a tour that includes roundtrip transportation in a minivan. The park entrance fee is another $2, and a fresh trucha (trout) lunch will run $3.50.

The hike from the drop-off point to the base of the waterfall takes an average of 2 hours, and there's a house with water and snacks for sale at the halfway point.

While it can seem like an easy hike, the altitude can slow you down if you haven't had a few nights to acclimatize in Chachapoyas (Elev: 2,300 meters) first.

The volume of water coming over the falls varies greatly based on the time of year.

I visited in October, before the start of the rainy season, so the water that was falling looked more like a cloud of mist than a heavy torrent.

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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is available for Kindle.

Kuelap: Fortress Ruins in Northern Peru

One of the many reasons I chose to take the long, scenic route from Ecuador to Peru was so that I'd be in a good position to visit Kuelap, a Pre-Inca, Pre-Colombian, mountaintop fortress built by the Chachapoyans (know as the Cloud Forest people).

Little is known about Kuelap, though we do know through carbon dating that construction began in the 6th century AD, and the location was occupied until the mid 1500's.

Lengthwise, the fortress walls at Kuelap extend 600 meters

To get there, we left Chachapoyas early in the morning, and drove 3 solid hours along steep, unpaved mountain roads until we arrived at the parking lot for the ruins.

From there, we had a short 10-minute walk to reach the fortress, though in total, we'd spend a whopping 3 hours touring the ruins.

One of the entrances to Kuelap fortress — This narrow entrance to Kuelap fortress is either a defensive measure, a symbol of the female genitalia, or both

Kuelap is strategically located atop a mountain 3,000 meters above sea level.

The first thing I noticed up there was the 360-degree, panoramic views.

You'd be hard pressed to build a fortress with a more commanding view of the countryside.

Ruins of one of the 400 structures within the fortress walls

Kuelap complex — View of the surrounding mountains from atop Kuelap

Within the walls of Kuelap are approximately 400 individual structures -- mostly circular in shape.

Within many of the structures, you can still see the smooth, worn stones used to grind food.

Among the more interesting tidbits relayed by our guide was how the Chachapoyans were excellent brain surgeons, and that skeletal evidence existed of the surgeries they'd perform.

At one point, he even moved aside a stone, in what appeared to be a mass tomb, to reveal human bones.

Intricate stonework — Buildings with intricate stonework are thought to be the homes of shaman, or holy men

This stone carving is a combination of 3 different animals, each with their own symbolic meaning

Someone on our tour mentioned just 24,000 people visit Kuelap each year.

Compare that to the 2,500 people that visit Machu Picchu each day, and you'll get a feel for how off the beaten track you'll be by visiting Kuelap in northern Peru.

As I write this entry, having been to Machu Picchu, I'm even more thankful that I had the chance to visit Kuelap first.

Aside from a few other tour groups from Chachapoyas, we had the entire 1,500 year old fortress ruins to ourselves.

The Kuelap ruins can be seen along the right side of the mountain ridge, where there are trees

What You Need to Know

How Much: $28 + tip ($22 for tour, $2 for park entrance, $4 for lunch)

Difficulty: Easy

Where to Book: Most hostels and travel shops in Chachapoyas. I used Andes Tours. If you're not fluent in Spanish, make sure you're getting an English-speaking guide.

What to Bring: A daypack, your own supply of snacks and water (we didn't eat lunch until 4 pm), sunglasses, sunscreen, several layers including a light jacket in case it rains.

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Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is now available for Kindle and PDF.

Visiting Bangkok's Thrilling Chinatown

Bangkok's Chinatown, known as Yaowarat, is one of the most exciting places in town!

The area is alive and bustling at all hours of the day with busy markets, thriving businesses, and lots of restaurants. Stopping by and spending a little time in Yaowarat is a must when visiting Bangkok.

Table of Contents

A Little History of Yaowarat
Street Food
Exotic Dishes
Shopping
Festivals

A Little History of Yaowarat

It was hundreds of years ago when a wave of Chinese migrated to Bangkok looking for new lives and jobs.

Because they weren't permitted to settle inside the walls of the Grand Palace, the Chinese moved just outside the central district on the road known as "Yaowarat."

The Chinese came to Bangkok as poor farmers, searching for a new way to make a living.

With a strict attitude to succeed, paired with the Chinese business savvy mindset, many of the Chinese in Bangkok worked their way into starting large scale businesses. Eventually, Yaowarat became the center of trade in Bangkok.

Today, Bangkok's Chinatown is one of the wealthiest areas of town.

Yaowarat Road is full of gold and jewelry stores, traditional Chinese medicine shops, and high-end food supply distributors.

You'll know exactly when you're in Yaowarat by the giant signs filled with Chinese characters, the flashy neon billboards, the scores of pedestrians, and the smells and sounds.

Street Food

Though Yaowarat does have its share of high-end Chinese Thai restaurants, the area is also known for its abundance and quality of Bangkok street food.

Every day at around 5 pm street vendors begin setting up their tables on the side of the road and preparing for another busy night of hungry customers.

From specialty Kuay Jab (rolled rice noodles) to the freshest seafood, Yaowarat is guaranteed to be stomach pleasing!

Exotic Food in Bangkok's Chinatown — Exotic Food in Bangkok

Exotic Dishes

After eating delicious street food, in my opinion, there's not a lot that's more fun than sampling exotic dishes.

Though it can be slightly pricey, Yaowarat is the place to go for bird's nest soup, durian (available year round), and roasted suckling pig!

Shopping

Though all of Bangkok is well known for its crazy amount of street shopping, the area around Yaowarat takes things to the next level.

The Sampeng Market in particular (a small lane that parallels Yaowarat Road) is a humongous open-air street market that stretches through the alley for a few kilometers.

The market is stuffed with every form of trinket imaginable - be careful of hot flaming snacks coming through the aisle!

Festivals

Anytime there's a Chinese oriented holiday, Yaowarat is the ultimate place to be in Bangkok

On Chinese New Years the streets around Chinatown are blocked from motorized traffic, and the road becomes a walking street filled with hundreds of vendors and thousands of pedestrians.

Though at times it can be overly hectic, there's nothing like being part of a massive crowd out to have a good time and to snack on all kinds of delicious things!

Another popular event in Yaowarat is Thailand's annual vegetarian festival.

Since the Chinese started the tradition, the center of the festival takes place in the heart of Yaowarat.

Every year hundreds of stalls set up serving top of the line vegetarian Thai food.

With so much to do and see (and eat), Yaowarat is one of the most exciting parts of Bangkok!

Travel in Sri Lanka: What To Expect

1. People

Sri Lankan people are extremely friendly. In fact, out of every country I've ever traveled to, Sri Lankans may be the most willing to have a short conversation or just say "hello." While traveling through the island you'll be asked "You are from?," countless times.

I have never been to a country where so many people have come out and asked me to take a photo of themselves - pretty cool!

On top of their friendly positive attitudes, many Sri Lankan are also hospitable. They will strive to take care of you and to make you feel welcomed in their country.

One of the best things about Sri Lanka is that you can just walk down the street and say hello to any random stranger passing by.

2. Food

A plate of rice topped with an array of colorful curries is the most popular meal to eat in Sri Lanka.

Fish and chicken are two curry favorites and daal (lentils) is eaten with almost every meal.

Other dishes include various forms of bread like paratha or roti (both flatbreads).

Kottu is a homegrown speciality made with slices of paratha (similar to a Mexican flour tortilla) stir fried into a Sri Lankan version of Chinese fried rice - but with bread instead of rice!

If you are a lover of all things coconut, you will be in heaven when you arrive in Sri Lanka.

All over the country you can grab a coconut to drink its water straight from the shell or enjoy a plate of freshly made pol sambola (blend of shredded coconut, chili and lime juice).

Sri Lankan's, just as many others around the world, love to eat deep fried snacks. Little snacky things are available in abundance throughout the country.

3. Transportation

Though there are many different kinds of transportation to choose from, if you want personal space and comfort you won't find it in Sri Lanka.

Buses don't drive until all seats are full and the aisle is stuffed to maximum capacity. Drivers proceed to accelerate and brake as fast and as jerky as they can.

If you are standing on a Sri Lankan bus, you better hold on for dear life, or you may go flying through the aisle at the next stop.

Trains can be a good way to travel around the country, but routes are limited and it's rather slow. There are a number of different classes, and you may even get your own seat!

Even though transportation is not the most comfortable, it's really cheap.

Normal buses in Colombo cost less than 30 LKR ($0.30) for a ride, and I took the train from Colombo to Kandy (3 hour ride) for just 105 LKR ($0.95).

4. Places to Visit / Things To See

Even though the island of Sri Lanka may seem small, I soon realized that there is so much to do and so many potential places to visit that it could takes months to see the entire country.

From pristine beaches to mountains and tea fields, the diversity of the country is huge. They say when you travel in Sri Lanka you will enter a new landscape every 30 minutes - and that's really true.

Looking out the window while riding a bus I observed as the flora and fauna changed drastically, then out of nowhere we'd come up on a cliff overlooking a valley or a winding jungle river.

Colombo is Sri Lanka's major city and entrance point, but from there it's easy to get all around the country and begin what is sure to be an amazing trip to Sri Lanka!

Top 3 Architectural Highlights of Rome

Colosseum in Rome — The Colosseum (photo: Heather Cowper)

For a non-religious guy, I became fascinated by religious art in college.

Specifically, I was enamored with Italian Renaissance and medieval art and architecture.

Spending an hour or two per day in a dark classroom, looking at slides of the Virgin Mary, Christ, crucifixions and the churches and cathedrals that housed them made me happy.

When I traveled to Italy after college graduation, suddenly it was as if the pages of all those art books were coming alive.

I was finally able to walk through the naves I'd studied, and admire my favorite altarpieces and frescoes in 3-D.

It almost made me want to go back and look at schools for architecture.

Visiting Rome was a no-brainer for me then, and I'm thinking about a return for 2012.

Without further ado, here are my top three architectural highlights of the Italian capital.

The Colosseum

The Colosseum is the #1 symbol of Rome, if not all of Italy.

Construction on the Roman Empire's largest amphitheater began in 72 AD and was completed within just 8 years, by 80 AD.

Despite earthquakes over the centuries, it has maintained its form, which is a testament to the engineering involved in constructing it.

The ancient stadium was used to host fights between gladiators.

The lack of original flooring allows modern-day visitors to see the maze of hallways that rested underneath the area used for fighting.

In the movie Gladiator, for example, tigers are shown to be released through false doors in the ground.

The Pantheon

While not as well known or recognized as the Colosseum, the Pantheon is another testament to ancient architecture and engineering.

It was commissioned as a temple to the gods of Rome and built around 126 AD by Emperor Hadrian.

The main building is circular, and there's a Greek-style portico attached with 3 rows of 8 Corinthian columns.

The building has been repurposed often over its 2,000-year history.

It currently contains the tombs of famed Renaissance painter Raphael, as well as several Italian kings.

My favorite aspect of the Pantheon is the coffered dome, which has a circular opening at the top that allows a small stream of light to shine in the otherwise dark interior.

The Pantheon's dome is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome.

St. Peter's Basilica

Technically located within the Vatican City, St. Peter's Basilica has the largest interior space of any Christian church in the world.

And that's what I remember most about walking in the front door -- just how small I felt in comparison to its size and grandeur.

I craned my neck up to see streams of white light shooting down diagonally from the upper windows.

Unfortunately, when I visited in 1998, the entire front facade was covered in scaffolding as restoration work was being done.

Still, the interior is far more fascinating. And every visitor should take the opportunity to climb up the narrow, curved staircase that winds around the dome.

From the upper cupola, visitors are afforded sweeping 360-degree views of the Vatican City and Rome.

Happy Thanksgiving from Peru

Pumpkin soup in Huaraz Peru — Pumpkin soup in Huaraz

[H]appy Thanksgiving from Cusco, heart of the historic Inca Empire.

On major American holidays like Thanksgiving, it feels like I'm living in a parallel universe if I'm anywhere outside the USA.

Yet, wherever find myself, be it traveling overland through South Africa (2008), living in Medellin (2010), or preparing for a trek to Machu Picchu (2011), I can't help but reflect on all the reasons I have to be thankful.

Table of Contents

In 2011, I'm Thankful For...
In 2011, I'm Giving to...
- Passports with Purpose
- Kiva

In 2011, I'm Thankful For...

Health

My general good health, which allows me to keep on discovering new cultures and countries in South America, and the world.

Being robbed in Medellin this past June was a terribly frightening experience, and I'm especially thankful that no violence was involved.

I learned losing your passport isn't that big a deal. Sure, it'd be nice to have the stamps, but it was a lesson in letting go.

A few weeks, and a few hundred dollars later, I was holding my new one, a whole booklet of blank pages waiting to be stamped.

Family & Friends

I'm also thankful for the continued good health and support of my parents, brother, aunt, uncles and cousins.

I'm glad I went to my original home town of Pelham to see my cousin Amy get married.

Work

I mentally pinch myself daily that I'm in a position to support myself doing something I'm passionate about -- traveling, eating, writing, sharing, coaching.

It's a dream come true, and not a day goes by that I don't appreciate the opportunity to live and travel freely as a blogger.

Partners & Sponsors

I'm thankful there's no shortage of quality travel companies, sites, and services excited to do business with Go Backpacking.

I have several new partnerships in the works that I'm super excited about. Stay tuned for news on those in the coming months!

Travels

I kicked off the year with my first trip to Japan, and despite the winter chill, I had a wonderful time riding bullet trains around the country, dining on sushi, and spotting Geishas in Kyoto.

I'm thankful to have had another 6 months living and traveling in Colombia, followed by 2 months in Ecuador, including a week long cruise to the Galapagos Islands, and my current adventures in Peru.

Superstar Contributor Mark Wiens

Mark Wiens of Migrationology joined Go Backpacking as a Feature Blogger at the start of the year, and he has been contributing excellent articles weekly ever since. He's also written the Thailand, Kenya, and Egypt travel guides.

The experience has been so positive, that I'll be looking to bring on another blogger in 2012.

YOU -- The Readers

I keep going because of you. Honestly, I woudn't be preparing to enter my 6th year of travel blogging if you didn't continue to read, comment on, and share the stories, photos and videos published here.

And I'm extra thankful for the 2,000 new RSS & email subscribers who've joined us since last Thanksgiving.

In 2011, I'm Giving to...

Passports with Purpose

When you’re feeling appreciative of what you've got, it’s easy to start sharing with others.

Next week, on November 30, the 2011 Passports with Purpose fundraiser will kick off.

I'll be publishing a post to introduce this year's cause, as well as the prize I'm donating

Kiva

Through Kiva you can provide micro-loans for as little as $25 to small business owners in countries around the world.

I believe this is a terrific way to empower people, as well as give back to the countries and cultures I've gotten to know first hand.

And I'm proud to share Go Backpacking's lending team has provided $2,375 in loans so far.

Happy Thanksgiving! [gbicon]

Getting To Know Dublin, One Village at a Time

The bustling capital city of Ireland, Dublin, is attractive to a lot of different types of travelers, who come for its varied assortment of history, culture, and nightlife.

Modeled in many ways on its cosmopolitan sibling, London, the Fair City is made up of an assortment of smaller villages that surround the nuclear city center, where most of the action takes place.

The River Liffey in Dubline, Ireland (photo: Flickr Creative Commons/Steve-h). — The River Liffey (photo: Flickr Creative Commons/Steve-h)

Split virtually in half by the inky River Liffey, Dublin stretches into suburbia both north and south along the Irish Sea coast, where lovely towns and villages have their own atmospheres worth exploring.

Table of Contents

Dublin Villages
6. Drumcondra
- 7. Dun Laoghaire

Dublin Villages

1. Temple Bar & Dame Street

The heartbeat of the city is Temple Bar, Dublin's cultural quarter and nightlife haven. Packed with pubs, bars, and restaurants, as well as cultural institutions like the Irish Film Institute, this Latin quarter is hard to pass up for those seeking 'round-the-clock entertainment.

Sure, the Irish music here can get a bit plastic and the pubs a bit splashed by the end of the night, but there's nothing like stumbling home to your hostel only a few feet away. Not really the place for those seeking a quieter sleeping experience.

2. North City Centre

Dublin's north side has always been a bit more gritty around the edges, with a strong work ethic and an inner-city vibe that has, admittedly, waned in recent decades.

The north side has come into its own with the arrival of many new Chinese immigrants who've set up shop along Parnell Street; meanwhile, the shiny spire on O'Connell Street now eclipses the Easter Rising bullet holes in the old General Post Office columns, which used to be the area's biggest claim to fame.

Exploring these distinct neighborhoods, from the historic North City Centre to the bustling Temple Bar, offers a comprehensive glimpse into Dublin's multifaceted character. For those looking to delve deeper into the country's heritage and discover all its charms, consider booking Ireland sightseeing tours to maximize your experience beyond the capital.

Plenty of hostels are to be found in the side streets off O'Connell Street, as well as a few nicer hotels right along the main drag itself.

3. Gardiner Street

If you've been to Dublin before, odds are you stayed on Gardiner Street. Arguably the most stocked area for hotels in Dublin, this long north-south street has been a veritable one-stop shop for accommodation, with guesthouses and hostels now residing in reconverted old Georgian homes.

Accommodation here can range from manky to passable, with nothing remarkable to write home about, but lots of choices and reasonable prices. You're also walking distance to just about everywhere in the city center.

4. Stephen's Green & Surrounds

The leafy south side streets that branch off from St. Stephen's Green, Dublin's tidiest municipal park, offer something of a slightly more gentrified air.

Perhaps it's the concentration of lawyers' offices and accounting firms along Harcourt Street and Leeson Street, but this is the place to find quaint older hotels fashioned from former Georgian homes, albeit a bit higher on the price scale. Plenty of posh restaurants around, too.

5. Rathmines

Dublin's Rathmines Village (photo: Flickr Creative Commons/infomatique). — Rathmines Village (photo: Flickr Creative Commons/infomatique).

If you want to know where the real new Dubs live, check into one of the several hotels and guesthouses in the bustling village of Rathmines, home to perhaps Dublin's most ethnically diverse population.

In the 1980s, Rathmines was the place where underage locals could get served in pubs if they were tall enough and never quite shook off its gritty flavor. Lots of cafes, cheap and dingy pubs, and cheap shopping, as well as easy buses to the city center (or walkable, if you're fit).

6. Drumcondra

Ah, lovely Drumcondra. An oasis in otherwise grainy north side Dublin and a stone's throw from Croke Park, home to all things Dublin sport.

Drumcondra Village has a few pubs, including Quinn's, where fun rapidly descends into a meat market on a Thursday, but it's primarily concerned with leafy streets stocked with guesthouses where a good, quiet night's sleep is easy to find.

Make sure to take a walk through the National Botanic Garden of Ireland and see some of the historic gravestones at Glasnevin Cemetery.

7. Dun Laoghaire

This deliciously unpronounceable (try "Dun Leary") town sits south of Dublin City along the coast and boasts a gorgeous waterfront promenade replete with cozy pubs where local young professionals sip pints of cider on ice on a weekend.

On a sunny day, Dun Laoghaire is difficult to beat, with its cawing seagulls and dripping ice cream cones. There is also a major ferry port here, for those going onward to Britain or France by sea.

__________

About the Author: Travel writer and wanderluster, Megan Eaves, is the author of two travel guidebooks and runs the Irish travel webzine, irishjaunt.com. Having traveled to 25 countries and lived in four, she is an expert on Ireland, China, and the American Southwest, where she grew up, and also often writes about her adventures around Europe, especially London, where she is currently living.

10 Must-See Destinations for Backpackers in Southeast Asia

Southeast Asia casts an allure like no other. From pristine beaches to bustling cities and everything in between, this magical part of the world is hugely popular with backpackers the world over.

Picking a top 10 must-see destinations from Southeast Asia is no easy feat. In a region so varied, it's no real surprise that everyone has their favorite part.

Surely some of these would be on your list, however?

Table of Contents

Southeast Asia Destinations

Southeast Asia Destinations

1. Halong Bay, Vietnam

Ask any backpacker what the most unmissable sight is in Vietnam and Halong Bay, the countries breathtaking series of limestone islands and rocks that jut out the ocean to the north, will be firmly on their list.

Want to visit? Then book your hostel in Hanoi here

Home to over 3,000 islands of varying shapes and sizes, Halong Bay features some of the world's rarest species of flowers that grow amid its lush topography.

Catch a junker, tour the various islands and descend into the cracks and caves of its hidden lagoons for a chance to get up close and personal.

Hopping off at Bai Tu Long Bay, one of the larger parts of this UNESCO World Heritage site, is a must.

There you can climb stone mountains, wander through its mangrove forests or laze for a while on its long stretch of beach.

Thanks to the increasing popularity of Vietnam as a tourist destination, it's probably best to visit Halong Bay soon.

In the future, it might not be possible for everyone to squeeze into the enchanting caverns of places like Song Sôt cave.

Blue skies over Angkor Wat — Halong Bay (photo: Herr-Bert)

2. Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Southeast Asia's not short of temples, but there aren't many as memorable as Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Heading there? Book a top-rated hostel here

This temple complex, dating back to the 12th century, features the world's largest religious building that is still active today with Buddhists and people of all faiths.

Crawl over the fallen and tree-covered ruins of Tah Prohm (made famous by the film Tomb Raider) for Indiana Jones-like adventures, take a tuk-tuk across the length and breadth of the complex, and don't miss the earth-shattering experience at sunset from the top of Bakheng Hill.

The nearby backpacker town of Siem Reap is heaps of fun too!

3. Boat Quay, Singapore

Singapore might not be the most budget-friendly of destinations but hanging out at Boat Quay, one of the country's oldest and most historical parts, is cheap enough and well worth whiling away a few hours.

Heat out at night for dizzying views of Singapore's financial might as its skyscrapers light up the rest of the city and cast their dimmers over the south bank of the river.

4. Lake Toba, Indonesia

Part lake, part volcano, Sumatra's Lake Toba (Danau Toba) is a geological wonder.

The site of a supervolcanic eruption that changed the world's climate and wiped out most of humanity over 69,000 years ago, things are a little more backpacker-friendly now!

Spend some time at Samosir Island and chill with the Batak people and the hot springs in the shadow of the looming giant lake.

5. Bangkok, Thailand

Thailand's got it all, fantastic beaches, beautiful people, and flavorful food.

But nowhere does its magic all come together more than in its capital, Bangkok.

Planning to visit? Then book your hostel in Bangkok here

While the true hippie mecca of Khao San road, in the middle of Bangkok, is a must for any self-respecting backpacker, it's also worth paying attention to the cities other glorious ages with a trip on the modern BTS Skytrain and a wander around the 19th-century temple of Wat Arun.

There's also Patpong if you fancy a spot of ping pong too. Just don't be expect to be playing!

6. Vientiane, Laos

Little known Laos may be slightly off the backpacking radar, but its capital Vientiane is bags of fun.

Book your Vientiane hostel here

Smaller than most other Southeast Asian capitals, its laid-back feel makes it great for hanging out and checking out sites like the funky (and weird) statues in Buddha Park.

The morning market at Talat Sao is a great place to pick up a nice bottle of snake wine too.

7. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Alongside Singapore, Malaysia's capital is one of the most international sites in Southeast Asia and a thriving hub of fantastic art, unbelievable architecture, and enough malls and shops to blow your entire backpacker budget.

Accommodation can still be cheap! Book your KL hostel here

Petaling Street, KL's bustling Chinatown, is a prime budget eating spot away from the glitzy restaurants and cafes of the Golden Triangle.

Head in early February, and you can catch the city in full swing during Thaipusam, the Tamil's ode to their hero Murugan killing the evil demon Soorapadam.

Hong Kong at night — Dili (photo: yeowatzup)

8. Dili, East Timor

The coastal capital of the former Portuguese colony of East Timor, Dili, is somewhat of a forgotten paradise among tourists due to recent conflicts resulting from the end of its Indonesian occupation.

Today, however, Dili is a more peaceful place and features unmissable spots like at the top of the hill next to the statue of Cristo Rei, where you can see out across the whole of Timor and its beautiful beaches.

9. Hong Kong, China

Hong Kong's inclusion in a list of top Southeast Asian destinations as a key tourism hub of China might be a little debatable, but that's mostly beside the point.

With attractions like Victoria Peak, Tsim Sha Tsui, and Ocean Park, Hong Kong offers an unbeatable range of things to do.

Visiting Hong Kong? Book a cheap hostel here

Backpackers needn't be put off by Hong Kong's densely packed population; its expansive skyline makes for one of the most dazzling views on the whole of the continent.

10. Yangon (Rangoon), Burma

Having been shrouded in mystery for years due to the secrecy of its military government, Burma, and, more specifically, Rangoon, is exploding into life as a newly opened backpacking destination.

Flying in or out of Yangon? Book your hostel here

Its newness doesn't mean that there isn't much to see, however.

The 2500-year-old Buddhist shrine of Shwedagon Pagoda, Aung San Suu Kyi's house, and the national museum make for compelling viewing.

The beach at nearby Ngwe Saung is also one of the best and most unspoiled in the whole of Southeast Asia.

The above are just some of the incredible sights and attractions that you can see traveling around Southeast Asia.

You can also check out some of Go Backpacking's other top recommendations in its list of top destinations for 2011.

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About the Author: Will Peach is one of the site editors over at Gap Daemon, the gap year community website for backpackers and gap year travelers. You can also catch him writing about his latest adventures on his other blog, My Spanish Adventure, and Twitter.

Update on the Flood in Bangkok

Following the flood in Thailand is difficult, confusing…even when I live in Bangkok.

This massive body of excess water as well as the rise in overall water levels is swallowing parts of the city.

The city of Bangkok and its residents are on edge.

Yet even though millions of people are affected directly or indirectly, there are still many within the city that barely notice a sign of the flood.

As of now, my little studio apartment on the 3rd floor has been completely unaffected.

I still have electricity, fresh water, and there's no stagnant water that I have to wade through to leave or come.

The street food stalls still serve up their delicious dishes throughout the day and night, and cars, buses and motorcycles zoom through as usual.

But if you look around my neighborhood a little more closely, you'll notice walls built around businesses, sandbags piled in front of stores, and an abnormal amount of boats sitting in front of people's homes.

I walk into the nearest supermarket and the shelves are more and more empty by the day. There are still things to buy, but the extra stock of quantity that we're so used to seeing has dwindled away.

7-Eleven convenience store has been out of bottled water for weeks now (and even beer). Other beverages and certain snacks have also disappeared from shelves throughout Bangkok.

I wake up in the morning, peer off the edge of my balcony and look down the road to see if my soi (neighborhood street) has been drowned by the rising water levels.

Every day so far it has been clear. But such is not the case in so many parts of Bangkok.

With no television in my apartment I get on Twitter and check the #ThaiFloodEng feed for latest updates about the situation.

There's always a new intersection that's been overtaken or a new area of town that is now "bracing for floods."

Today I went to the giant wholesale fresh market, where I go to buy fruits and vegetables.

It was dry just 3 days ago when I had went, but today the lower parts of the market were flooded with up to a foot of water.

So I guess the question arises, should I still travel to Thailand now?

As of now Bangkok's main international airport is open and functioning as usual.

Officials seem to be doing everything they can to protect it from water. However there's only so much that humans can do to divert a giant amount of water.

While quite a lot of Bangkok continues to be affected by floods, there are still many parts that go on as normal.

Many of the popular tourist things to do in Bangkok and central business areas remain open but low areas and areas near the Chao Phraya river and canals have really been hit hard.

Everyone's a little more tense and no one knows exactly what will happen, or when this flood will be over.

So it's still possible to visit Bangkok, but at the moment it's just not the same as it was a month ago.

While I wouldn't fully recommend visiting Bangkok, there are still plenty of other places in the country like Chiang Mai or Krabi that are completely unaffected by the flood.

For over a month now the residents of Bangkok have been fighting the flood, dealing with its consequence, or just waiting around to see where to the water will go next.

So as I sit in my apartment scrolling through Twitter, I can only hope that the situation in other parts of town improves, that water levels begin to recede and that residents of Bangkok can soon get back to their lives.

Frightening as it is, no one knows just how long this water will remain in Bangkok. [gbicon]

Siargao Island: Not Your Typical Surfer's Paradise

paradise (low tide) — Paradise (at low tide)

The following is a guest post by Josh and Mulan.

If you enjoy exploring places whose beauty has not yet been spoilt by commercialism then maybe it is time for you to visit the tear drop shaped Siargao in the Philippines.

Siargao is not your typical surfer's paradise. For one, despite the fact that an annual international surfing competition has been held here in recent years, its beauty remains unspoiled by development.

In fact you will probably find this place very primitive compared to other island getaway destinations as there are no overbearing hotels or resorts littering its pristine white beaches.

Instead you will find are an assortment of shanties and huts all offering free Wi-Fi connection for to stay in ensuring that whilst you are cut off from fast paced living you can still update your travel blog.

Table of Contents

How to Get There
Packing List for Siargao
Best Places to Visit
Things to Do

How to Get There

Siargao, the surfing capital of the Philippines, is famous for its cloud 9 wave.

To get there, you can take a plane from Manila to Surigao City which is the nearest city to Siargao itself.

Major airlines like Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific and Air Philippines have flights to and from Surigao City several times a week.

From Surigao airport, you will need to go to the main pier and ride a ferry heading to Dapa, the port of entry for the island.

The ferry ride will take between two and a half to five hours depending on the type of boat you select (The RORO is the slowest but also the most comfortable).

Cebu Pacific has direct flights from Cebu to Siargao three times a week. This happens to be the most convenient and least expensive way to travel.

Packing List for Siargao

1. Sunblock, sunblock, sunblock
2. Insect repellant
3. Your surfing gear
4. Your itsy bitsy bikini or board shorts
5. Bottled water
6. Money in local currencies (as there are still many establishments that do not accept credit cards and foreign currencies)
7. Camera

Best Places to Visit

1. General Luna

If your only purpose is to surf then GL is the place to be as this is where you will catch the best waves.

2. Sohoton Cave

Quite far from Siargao but definitely worth the tiring two-hour pump boat ride.

This lagoon/cave can only be accessed during low tide as it is submerged underwater most of the time.

If you're familiar with the beauty of the Palawan or Phi Phi islands then you should definitely head here for Sohoton is just as beautiful as those two.

3. Naked Island

Why Naked? The small island is basically a heap of fine white sand. Even trees and shrubs are non-existent.

That is why it generally feels hotter compared to nearby places as there is no respite from the sun.

You can walk the entire island in just a few minutes.

4. Dacu Island

Compared to the famous (and crowded) Boracay Island, Dacu provides a better ambiance.

The bright emerald color of the water, the powder-like white sand and the romantic sunset views are some of the best on offer.

Add to that the fact it is just a few leaps from General Luna and you will never tire of this setting.

5. Mamon Island

Situated near La Janoza Island. In between these two islands you will find an ideal place for snorkeling. The corals are simply breath-taking.

From General Luna, you'll need an hour to reach this spot by pump boat so plan ahead.

Things to Do

1. Surf in the early morning

You'll be impressed to see local kids as young as 8 years old surfing like pro's and pulling off some pretty audacious moves.

If you are new to surfing, have one of the locals teach you how to paddle out and balance on a surfboard. Don't miss this opportunity to hit the waves or you'll make a million surfers cry!

2. Visit Tiktikan Lake

This lake is included in the Sohoton Tour package. There is an entrance fee of Php 10 per person. If you would like to explore more by riding a boat, there is an additional fee of Php 5. The lake is vast and very calm. It is also incredibly scenic so take your camera if possible.

3. Swim with stingless jellyfish

Similar to the Jellyfish Lake in Palau, it is possible to swim with jellyfish in Sohoton Cave without fear of being stung by them.

At first, swimming with a school of jellyfish might feel awkward or weird as they will swarm you like bees but this is one experience that you should not miss and better than swimming with old faithful who was caught a couple of islands over some 80 years ago.

There are so many things to enjoy in Siargao. It is no wonder that surf enthusiasts from all over the world keep coming back year after year.

In fact, a decent number of foreigners have built businesses there and now live on the island year-round which tells you something about the place.

And before you leave, don't forget to buy a few bottles of the specialty mango rum, you won't be disappointed.

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About the Author - Josh and Mulan run the travel blog www.londonlaunchpad.com which deals with their adventures around London and the world beyond. Connect with them at any time for travel chat, tips, and advice on the website or at London Launchpad Facebook.

The Sandwich in Laos That's Worthy of a Pilgrimage

Where can you find the best sandwiches on earth?

Would you go to Italy for their scrumptious selection of hams and deli meats, or to the United States for gigantic meat and cheese filled subs, or even to Chile for an outstanding churrasco completo?

I'm going to take you on a little culinary journey to SE Asia, land of (mostly) rice and noodles - and a sandwich so good, it's worthy of a pilgrimage.

Ok, I can't claim this is the absolute best sandwich in the world...but I can safely say that it's just about the best thing wrapped in bread that I have ever experienced in my life.

To get to this sandwich of wonders requires a visit to the relaxing country of Laos, and more specifically, to the quiet central town of Savannakhet.

There's not a lot to do in this town, in fact, a few hours of walking around and you'll have seen just about everything there is to offer.

About the only reason you'd want to stay longer is to take full advantage of the sandwich that will seduce you.

When I first arrived at the small restaurant in central Savannakhet, all I was after was a cup of stout Vietnamese style iced coffee (they make it the same in Laos - under the order of the French).

But then I observed a table of Laotians ordering food, and when I smelled and saw what came to their table, I had ordered breakfast without even thinking about it.

It didn't take long for the outdoor sidewalk restaurant to be unleashing heavenly aromas into the entire neighborhood.

The sweet perfume of sizzling beef mixed with their secret sauce and ingredients was so overwhelming that I had to sit on my hands to refrain myself from grabbing the cook's food right out of the pan.

It was a true test of patience, waiting that long five minutes for my sandwich to arrive. But then it came.

Within just a few moments, I had devoured the entire mini-baguette, without even taking a single photo. Good thing I immediately ordered another one!

This time, though I was still just as excited as before, I was willing to take my time, shoot plenty of food porn photos and do a little dissection to find out what was inside.

It all began with tender slices of choice beef marinated in a sweet soy sauce, sesame seeds, and stalks of green onion.

The cook first added the beef to a scorching hot pan, and let the meat cook in its own juices until it was done, but not overcooked.

Slicing open a fresh crusty baguette, she added the beef into the bread. With the beef juices still coating the pan, she cracked an egg and let it fry until it was just barely done, yet still beautifully runny.

The egg was placed on top of the beef along with a few sprinkles of this and that and a generous scoop of chili flakes.

Every bite was an enlightening mouthful of pleasure in its purest form.

If you do make it to Savannakhet, Laos, all you need to remember is that you can find this sandwich right across the street from the tallest building (a bank) in town.

Go in the morning for breakfast.

Short Term Apartment Rentals with Wimdu (Part 2)

This is part two of a two-part review of Wimdu.com. I was provided with a voucher for the purpose of reviewing their services during my stay in Lima, Peru. All opinions are my own. Click here to read part one.

I met Giancarlo, the property manager for the Lima apartment I picked from Wimdu, last Thursday afternoon.

The one-bedroom unit located in the upscale Miraflores neighborhood looked just as it did in the photos.

After a quick tour, I paid the $150 security deposit (using Peruvian Soles), confirmed my ability to access the Wi-Fi, and began to enjoy my first short term apartment rental.

Towels were provided, but there was no toilet paper or hand soap, so I picked up both, along with a Glade air freshener and some groceries (juice, milk, cereal, snacks).

I was surprised to find the act of staying in an apartment versus a private hostel room or hotel made me feel more akin to being an expat in Lima than a tourist just passing through.

At first, that feeling threw me for a loop, and I wasn't sure whether I wanted to feel like an expat. I experience a place more slowly when I'm living there, yet I only planned to be in Lima for a few weeks.

I made the mistake of drinking a glass of tap water the first night and paid for it the next morning at 4 AM with an unpleasant case of traveler's diarrhea.

Being sick abroad always sucks, especially if you've yet to make friends where you are when it happens. On the plus side, I was happy to have a private, comfortable place to recover.

On the downside, I found that living in the apartment can be an isolating experience. Aside from greeting the doormen, there was nobody around to talk to in person.

For that reason alone, I thought apartment rentals might be better suited for friends traveling together, or couples, versus a solo traveler like myself.

Once I started feeling better, I began to eat out in Lima's wonderful restaurants, and see a few of the local sights.

When I was full of energy once again, the isolation of renting an apartment in a big, new city didn't bother me as much.

The living room with comfy couch and flat screen TV — The living room with a comfy couch and a flat-screen TV

The rooftop had terrific 360-degrees of the city, including the ocean which was a 10-minute walk away, however, the jacuzzi didn't look too appealing.

I didn't end up using the pool either, though it looked more inviting, and was certainly an effective selling point when I was reviewing properties.

The day before I was due to checkout, I confirmed a meeting time with Giancarlo. The following day, he came to the apartment.

After a quick inspection to ensure there were no damages beyond normal wear and tear, he refunded my security deposit in US Dollars.

My preference was to receive Soles, but he'd forgotten, and I hadn't reminded him.

Lesson learned -- if there's the potential for leaving a deposit in two different currencies, remind the property manager of which you prefer at the end of your stay to avoid any confusion.

Overall, my first use of Wimdu to rent a short term apartment went well. It was easy to find and book a property online, and the act of staying in an apartment made me feel more like a resident than a tourist.

I'm already thinking of renting the apartment again for the week I'm in Lima between Christmas and New Year's Eve.

Inspirational Beauty of Yangshuo, China

Yangshuo China from the top of TV Tower — Yangshuo from the top of TV Tower

My most recent trip to China was a month-long visit to Yangshuo, a small town surrounded by karst mountains in Guangxi Province.

The dramatic landscapes and beautiful scenery in the area have inspired the works of countless Chinese artists throughout history.

Here's a small collection of my favorite photos from Yangshuo, China.

It's a grueling 30-minute vertical hike to the top of TV Tower, but the view of Yangshuo town and the surrounding area is absolutely gorgeous!

Yangshuo is one of the most popular destinations for Chinese tourists.

Every weekend the population of the town swells with locals getting away from the big city and coming to the countryside.

Just moments from the city center is the rural countryside where farms of rice exist in the midst of the kast mountains.

Ancient Chinese Village near Yangshuo, China

Biking in Yangshuo is one of the most entertaining activities around, and there are countless ancient farming villages to discover.

Husband and Wife at a Village in Yangshuo

In some of the ancient villages around Yangshuo, there are still plenty of people living in nearly the same way as generations of their ancestors did.

It's fantastic to see the traditional rural side of China as contrasted from the high paced modern life in China's major industrial cities.

One of the many outdoor things to do in Yangshuo includes taking a traditional bamboo raft down the Yulong River.

Pictured above is a crew of Chinese tourists riding bamboo rafts and shooting each other with water guns!

Just a few kilometers from the center of town is a famous lotus patch.

I stopped at the lotus farm to eat a few of the showerhead looking flowers and drink a cool beverage made from lotus nuts and peanuts.

Rice is still life in Guangxi Province, and many people from the area are farmers.

This lady loaded a huge amount of rice chaff on her cart before she rolled it off down the road.

One of the most famous things to eat in Yangshuo is Guilin noodles.

This colorful medley of rice noodles is topped with a variety of tasty toppings and spiced up with a spoon full of dry chili flakes.

When the sun began to decline it casts spectacular shadows and shades of light on the jagged karst mountains of Yangshuo, China.

It's a perfect place to sit back with a cup of Chinese tea and enjoy the beauty. [gbicon]

10 Must See Destinations For Backpackers in Europe

Ruins of Pompeii in Italy — Ruins of Pompeii (photo: David Wilmot)

This post was written in partnership with TravelSupermarket.com.

Europe contains many places that are stunningly beautiful, profoundly fascinating, or significantly important.

Some destinations are all of the above!

While any list of 'must-see' places can only ever be subjective and open for debate, the following ten must-see destinations are certainly up there with the most exceptional Europe has to offer.

Table of Contents

1. The Ruins of Pompei, Italy
2. Venice, Italy
3. The Alhambra Palace, Spain
4. The Eiffel Tower, France
5. Schloss Neuschwanstein, Germany
6. Christmas Markets, Germany
7. Brandenburg Gate, Germany
8. The Northern Lights, Norway
9. The Globe Theatre, England
10. Stonehenge, England

1. The Ruins of Pompei, Italy

A visit to the ruins of Pompei in the south of Italy is a genuinely moving experience.

Preserved beneath layers of volcanic ash, the everyday life of the city's inhabitants in the 1st century AD is there for all to see.

Disaster struck in AD79 when the volcano exploded, and as well as the ruins of houses, shops, and temples are the bodies of people who tried to flee the onslaught in vain.

2. Venice, Italy

Still, in Italy but much further north, the popular city break destination of Venice is sadly under threat.

Built on more than a hundred small islands and crisscrossed by myriad waterways, this beautiful city is sinking by two and a half inches a decade.

There are elaborate plans to save it, but geological shifting may well eventually triumph, so see it while you can.

The architecture is stunning. There are endless waterfront buildings, with gondolas gliding past.

Venice's main thoroughfare is the Grand Canal.

It was called 'the most beautiful street in the world' in the 15th century by the French king's ambassador, and many would say it still is.

3. The Alhambra Palace, Spain

The Alhambra Palace at Granada in Spain is more of a fortified city than a palace.

Building began in 1238, as a secure and prestigious residence for the Nasrid King, el Ahmar.

It has been added to since then, and today, visitors can walk throughout the complex, taking a magnificent journey through centuries of architecture.

Grand buildings contain secluded courtyards with tranquil fountains.

Views of the surrounding countryside are framed in beautiful and delicately carved windows.

If you visit in July, you might be lucky enough to get tickets for one of the performances at the annual Music and Dance Festival.

4. The Eiffel Tower, France

Perhaps one of the most iconic structures in Europe, the Eiffel Tower was built for the World Fair, held in Paris in 1889.

Its designer, Alexandre Gustave Eiffel, only ever intended for it to stand for 20 years, but the fate of this giant structure has been different.

It's 324 meters high and contains more than 18,000 pieces of wrought iron. It's open to the public every day, and those who go up it are guaranteed the best views of Paris.

5. Schloss Neuschwanstein, Germany

Down in the south of Germany, the Bavarian Alps are home to Schloss Neuschwanstein, a giant castle that looks like it comes straight out of a fairytale.

It was built in the 19th century for King Ludwig II, who surprisingly only ever spent 11 nights here.

It's one of the most photographed buildings in the world and contains many sumptuously furnished and decorated rooms.

6. Christmas Markets, Germany

If your backpacking itinerary should find you in Germany during the winter, you really should visit one of the traditional Christmas Markets.

Held in several towns and cities across the country, including Cologne, Munich, Bonn, and Frankfurt, these are an antidote to the usual plastic commercialism that prevails in the run-up to the festive season.

Traditional craftwork such as carved items, candles, and wooden toys are on sale, and there are plenty of stalls selling authentic German food as well as hot mulled wine.

The outdoor markets usually start in the last week of November and run right through to Christmas Eve.

Opening times are from 10 am to 9 pm daily.

7. Brandenburg Gate, Germany

If the Eiffel Tower is a leading symbol for France, perhaps Germany's equivalent is the Brandenburg Gate.

Built in Berlin in 1791, it was the impressive entrance to the grand boulevard of Unter den Linden, leading to the Prussian palace.

However, by the 20th century, the Gate was a symbol of the division between East and West during the Cold War, lying along the route of the infamous Berlin Wall.

When the Wall fell in 1989 during the peaceful revolution that ended the Cold War, the Brandenburg Gate was opened once more, and the people of Berlin could travel freely from East to West.

8. The Northern Lights, Norway

The next place all backpackers should head for isn't a place at all, though you'll need to travel into the Arctic Circle in Norway to see it.

The Northern Lights are an awe-inspiring sight and can show themselves in various ways.

Sometimes, three green bands appear across the sky; at others, there's more of a flickering curtain of lights.

Along with the main color of green, you can see pinks and violets too.

You need to visit between the autumn and spring equinoxes (21 September and 21 March) to see the Northern Lights and be warned, patience is required.

Sometimes you'll be rewarded with a display that lasts for hours, but at other times, nothing can be seen.

Set aside a week in the area if you can, and you'll stand the best chance of seeing this miracle of nature.

9. The Globe Theatre, England

Meanwhile, in the UK capital of London, the Globe Theatre is a great place to see performances of the human variety.

It's an accurate reconstruction of the original playhouse built in 1599, where Shakespeare's plays were first performed in the open air.

The season runs from April to October and includes works by the great Bard himself, as well as those of his contemporaries such as Ben Jonson and those by modern playwrights too.

The audience gets the full Elizabethan experience, either from a seat in the gallery or by standing in the central yard as a 'groundling'.

10. Stonehenge, England

A must for anyone with any hippy credentials, Stonehenge is a collection of huge pre-historic standing stones near Salisbury in the UK county of Wiltshire.

No one knows why it was built or who built it. Various theories have been put forward.

It may have been a temple dedicated to worshipping the sun, or a burial site, or perhaps a giant calendar.

Equally puzzling is how the people who made it managed to transport and erect the stones using only the most primitive equipment that would have been available to them.

The above attractions are only some of the fantastic sights that can be enjoyed when traveling around Europe.

There are plenty of other things to see and do during your travels, so if you are still in the process of planning your 2012 holidays, you may want to check out some of the attractions and countries listed above.

Vilcabamba to Chachapoyas: An Ecuador-Peru Border Crossing

Bus station in Zumba, Ecuador — The bus station in Zumba, Ecuador

Crossing international borders overland is always a thrill, whether they be hectic and filled with hustlers out to game you, or so quiet you wonder if you're in the right place.

The longer the journey, the more remote the border, the greater the adventure.

And if given the option, I prefer to make these crossings alone, as was the case with leaving Nepal for India, and more recently, leaving Ecuador for Peru.

The following instructions are based on those provided courtesy of Hosteria Izhcayluma in Vilcabamba, Ecuador.

They were generally accurate. However, the duration of each leg of travel will vary depending on road delays and weather.

The cost will vary depending on your patience and ability to negotiate.

The information in this post is based on my experience in October 2011.

Table of Contents

Reasons to Cross the Border at La Balsa
Day 1, Part 1 - Vilcabamba to Zumba
Day 1, Part 2 - Zumba to La Balsa
Day 1, Part 3 - Crossing the Border
Day 1, Part 4 - La Balsa to San Ignacio
Day 1, Part 5 - Spending the Night in San Ignacio
Day 2, Part 1 - San Ignacio to Jaen
Day 2, Part 2 - Jaen to Bagua Grande
Day 2, Part 3 - Bagua Grande to Chachapoyas

Reasons to Cross the Border at La Balsa

More relaxed (i.e. few, if any hustlers) than the main crossing on the Pan American Highway
A more direct route to Chachapoyas, and a whole region of ruins in Northern Peru
Off the beaten track

Day 1, Part 1 - Vilcabamba to Zumba

Duration: 5 hours

Cost: $6.50

The bus from Vilcabamba to Zumba is called Cooperativa "Sur Oriente," and it passes in front of Hosteria Izhcayluma between 6 - 6:30 AM daily.

I saw the bus rumbling up the road at 6:05 AM, held out my hand, and jumped aboard.

Ecuador's main highways are well paved, and even where they aren't, road work is underway to improve them.

Such was the case on the road leading South out of Vilcabamba toward Zumba.

There were sections of freshly laid concrete for about 45 minutes to an hour, but after that, it's all dirt roads winding up and around the mountains.

Day 1, Part 2 - Zumba to La Balsa

Duration: 1.5 hours

Cost: $1 or $2 for the local "Ranchera" bus (open-air like a chiva), or $20 for a private 4 x 4 taxi

Much to my surprise, my bus to Zumba arrived at 11 AM, which was one to two hours earlier than I'd been lead to expect.

As you can tell from the photo at the top, there's not much going on in Zumba.

I took a bathroom break, bought ice cream, and paid for a private taxi to take me to the border.

The taxi was a large, comfortable, yellow pick-up truck.

I tried to make some small talk with the driver in Spanish, but his accent made it difficult to understand him.

We were driving through the southernmost mountains of Ecuador.

It was beautiful, but at the same time, eerily remote. My mind wandered to horror movie-inspired "what if" scenarios.

I imagined how easy it would be for the driver to rob me and leave me stranded on the side of the road, or worse.

It's not that I don't know it'd be safer (and cheaper) to travel with a group of other travelers, but that's not always an option.

I wasn't going to wait around in Vilcabamba out of fear alone.

The Ecuador-Peru border at La Balsa (as viewed from Ecuadorian side)

Day 1, Part 3 - Crossing the Border

Duration: 1 hour

Cost: $0

A river marks the border between Ecuador and Peru at the La Balsa crossing.

The taxi driver stopped right in front of the Ecuador immigration office. I paid him his $20 and immediately got the exit stamp from Ecuador.

I ducked under the yellow, blue, and red-painted bamboo border gate and walked toward the bridge.

The reports from my fellow travelers were right; this was a super tranquil border crossing.

It reminded me of my border crossing from Cambodia into Southern Laos, minus the goats.

Ecuador - Peru border at La Balsa — The reports are correct; the border crossing couldn't have been quieter

I approached a jovial group of guys standing under some shade on the Ecuadorian side of the bridge.

In Spanish, I asked if they could take my photo. One of them agreed, and I handed him my camera, only to see him start to run toward the bridge.

Instinctively, my heart began to pound, until I saw him stop after a few meters, and turn around with a big smile.

Of course, his friends all broke out in laughter at the joke he'd just played on the gringo.

Once on the Peruvian side, I walked into the Immigration office. Salsa music was playing on the radio.

I commented to the official how much I enjoyed salsa, and he assured me I'd hear plenty of it in Peru.

I filled out the necessary form and was instructed to walk toward a policeman who was hanging out at a nearby restaurant.

The policeman, in turn, leads me down to a little building (visible to the far left in the photo above), where he did something on a computer and instructed me to go back to the Immigration office.

The Immigration officer asked me how much time I needed in Peru. I asked for three months, he gave it to me, and I was on my way.

Day 1, Part 4 - La Balsa to San Ignacio

Duration: 1.5 hours

Cost: $5.54 total ($1.10 rickshaw + $4.44 colectivo)

I changed about $10 for Peruvian Soles with a snack vendor and then tried to negotiate with the only colectivo driver there.

I kept trying to ask how much it'd cost to San Ignacio, but he wasn't giving a clear response.

I eventually caught him smiling and winking at the snack vendor, and realized he was playing around with me.

Annoyed, I asked a rickshaw driver for help, and he explained that it's cheaper to take a colectivo from the nearby town.

He offered to take me there for 3 Soles ($1.10), which turned out to be a fair price. If I wasn't already covered in a thin film of dirt, that rickshaw ride ensured it.

As we bounced down the road, my mind once again wandered to grisly "what if" scenarios.

This time, I reminded myself that the vast majority of people in this world are honest and kind. Functional societies depend on it.

After 10 - 15 minutes, we arrived in the nearby town, and I was dropped at a corner with several white colectivo cars.

I didn't have to wait more than 10 minutes before a group of Peruvians arrived, and we piled into the car.

Two women and a child up front, and two men plus me in the back. It was comfortable until the driver stopped to pick up another woman.

Stuffing another adult into the back seat made it uncomfortable for all four of us.

My room at the Gran Hotel in San Ignacio, Peru

Day 1, Part 5 - Spending the Night in San Ignacio

Duration: 16 hours

Cost: $18.50 private room + dinner

Eventually, we pulled into San Ignacio around 3 PM. It's a basic hill town, and there's not much to see.

My instructions had two recommendations for accommodations, Hostal "La Posada" (Basic) and "Gran Hotel."

I opted for the Gran Hotel, which was spacious and comfortable. However, the Wi-Fi was not working at the time.

I ate dinner in the adjacent restaurant, and breakfast the following morning was included with the room.

There's a bank around the corner from Gran Hotel, but when I visited, the security guard informed me there was no ATM, or if there was, it didn't take foreign cards.

I asked if there was another place in town. Nope!

So I walked to the city center, and asked around, eventually making my way to shoe shop, that doubled as a currency exchange office.

I was already aware of the exchange rate and was surprised to get an incredibly fair price for the $130 I wanted to change.

The commission for the Peruvian woman helping me was nearly zero.

Day 2, Part 1 - San Ignacio to Jaen

Duration: 3 hours

Cost: $7.40

I asked the hotel to schedule me a colectivo to Jaen for 8 AM, and it arrived more or less on time.

About an hour outside of San Ignacio, the dirt roads gave way to paved asphalt for the first time since Vilcabamba.

The hotel staff had informed me Jaen was the best place to get a new SIM card for my phone.

I was anxious to get my new number and mobile internet set up, so I took the time to visit a Movistar office.

It turned out to be a complete waste of time and money. The office was busy, and I had to spend at least an hour there.

I paid for a new SIM card for my Blackberry, and pre-paid minutes for the internet, only to find out later at another Movistar office in Chachapoyas that you can only buy prepaid internet for Blackberries purchased in Peru. Mine was from the USA.

Lesson Learned: If you're destined for Chachapoyas, take care of your mobile phone needs there. Both Movistar and Claro have offices, you won't need to pay for rickshaw rides, and it's a far more relaxed environment than in Jaen.

Day 2, Part 2 - Jaen to Bagua Grande

Duration: 1 hour

Cost: $3.70

My colectivo driver for this leg played romantic Latin ballads. He was tough-looking on the outside, but a softy at heart.

On the road from Bagua Grande to Chachapoyas

Day 2, Part 3 - Bagua Grande to Chachapoyas

Duration: 3 hours

Cost: $8.14

Bagua Grande was the first point in the two-day adventure, where I had to wait around more than a few minutes for a ride.

I left my main backpack with a colectivo and offered to pay for a second passenger if it meant a more spacious ride, and we could go sooner rather than later.

I walked to a convenience store next door to get some water and snacks. But really, I was walking int someone's house.

A young girl came out of the kitchen to help me. As I picked out my items and paid, I was being sized up by her older sister, or perhaps aunt.

But not that much older. I'd soon find out she was 21, and not at all shy. It turned out she lives in Lima but was visiting her family in Bagua Grande.

It wasn't long before she was writing down her phone number and email address for Facebook, while her mother looked on.

Flattered, I took her info and gave her my card and then left to get a proper lunch at the adjacent bus station.

About an hour later, my colectivo was heading down the final stretch to Chachapoyas, with me in the front seat.

Arriving in Chachapoyas — The home stretch -- arriving in Chachapoyas

The colectivo pulled into Chachapoyas just as the sun was setting on day two.

Tired, and uninterested in shopping around, I took a room at Hostal Revash, which was another recommendation by the guys in Vilcabamba.

Total Cost = about $70

But it can be done for half that if:

you're more patient than me
take the Ranchera from Zumba
stay at a cheap hostel in San Ignacio

How to Spend 24 Hours in Guayaquil

Everyone I talked to said the same thing -- spend as little time in Guayaquil as possible.

I considered their advice and did the opposite by purposefully spending a long weekend in Ecuador's largest (and arguably, most dangerous) city.

Despite Guayaquil's size, it's got very few hostels. I booked a hotel in the city center, a few blocks from the riverside.

The good news for tourists visiting Guayaquil, either en route to/from the Galapagos Islands or the Pacific Coast, is that there's just enough to do to keep you busy for 24 hours.

Stay longer, and it might help to have some friends in town.

Table of Contents

Things to Do in Guayaquil

Things to Do in Guayaquil

Land iguanas in Parque Seminario, Guayaquil — Petting land iguanas in Parque Seminario

Parque Seminario (aka The Iguana Park)

It just so happened that my hotel was located adjacent to Parque Seminario, also known as Iguana Park, on account of the land iguanas that hang out there.

The idea of giant lizards hanging out in an urban park struck me as odd and piqued my curiosity.

It's as surreal in person as it sounds. Giant land iguanas mingling with pigeons. Being fed by locals and tourists alike and lounging in the grass.

During your visit, you can also take a peek inside the large gothic cathedral, Catedral de Guayaquil, at the west end of the park.

Related: Best Hostels in Guayaquil

A working sailboat tied up along the Malecon

Malecon 2000

Parque Seminario is a three-block walk to the Malecon 2000, a major urban renewal project along the old Simon Bolivar boardwalk.

The Malecon runs one and a half miles along the riverside in the city center and is best walked in the early morning or late afternoon when the sun isn't so strong.

Between both the fencing that separates it from the street and the strong showing of security guards, the Malecon is generally safe to walk both day and night.

That said, it's still best to exercise precautions and not walk alone past dark.

The southern section of the Malecon features a modern underground mall and a few restaurants.

The middle is filled with historical monuments, parks, and places for kids to play.

And at the north end, you'll find an IMAX theater and several museums.

Related: Guayaquil Travel Guide

Malecon 2000 with Las Penas in the distance — The Malecon with Las Penas in the distance

Dinner & Drinks in Las Penas

If you choose to walk the Malecon 2000 in the early evening, start in the south, so you end up in Las Penas for happy hour.

This historic and colorful neighborhood is home to various shops, bars, lounges, and restaurants.

Walk the 400 numbered stairs to the lighthouse at the top, and you'll be treated to expansive views of the city, as well as a little exercise.

You can easily wrap up the night here, especially on the weekends, with dinner and dancing.

Las Penas, like the Malecon, is generally safe at night.

You can either call an Uber on the main street near the entrance when you're ready to call it quits.

Shopping in Guayaquil

Most visitors to Guayaquil, Ecuador, will spend their time by the riverside.

However, it's also worth noting that there are several modern shopping malls near the airport and bus terminal in the north.

These malls, including San Marino and Mall del Sol, feature department stores and plenty of smaller shops and boutiques.

The restaurants range from TGI Fridays to more upscale options, serving fresh sushi and ceviche.

Renting Short Term Apartments with Wimdu

This is part one of a two-part, review of Wimdu.com. I was provided with a voucher for the purpose of reviewing their services during my stay in Lima, Peru. All opinions are my own. Click here to read part two.

After traveling around the world for 15 months, I was certifiably burnt out on hostels.

The lack of privacy, the noise, the revolving door of new personalities.

The final straw was a Colombian girl who tried to rob me blind while I was at staying at a Medellin hostel.

After that, I immediately found a room to rent through a friend and spent five relaxing months with an apartment I could call home.

Now that I've turned traveling the world into a full-time job, I'm looking for ways to balance the need to keep moving, with the desire for creature comforts, privacy, and the security of my belongings.

What's Wimdu?

Wimdu is a new, short term apartment rental site that connects property owners around the world with holiday and business travelers.

They invited me to try their services earlier in the year, however, I wanted to wait until I was traveling again.

Today I'm leaving the mountains of Huaraz for the beaches of Lima, where I thought it'd be fun to give Wimdu a try.

This is the first time I've used an apartment rental site, so I'm curious to see how this turns out.

I've been Couchsurfing for five years, but as much as I love that community, I'm increasingly interested in having a private place to call my own, whether that's for one week, or one year.

The Search Process

Earlier this week, I began scouring Wimdu's listings for apartments in Lima.

Getting started is as easy as entering your destination, preferred check-in and check-out dates, and the number of guests in the search box on the home page.

A simple way to search, and a clean design, made the process of reviewing apartments a pleasure.

The results are displayed according to recommendations, however, you can also sort them by price and distance (from the location you entered).

I sorted by price and then used additional filters in the left column to further refine results.

For Room Type I selected "Entire Home/Apartment", for Neighborhood I picked the trendy "Miraflores" and under Amenities, I checked "Wireless Internet".

The results update accordingly, and there's a little Google map in the upper left corner with numbered markers that correspond to the available properties.

From this view, I began checking out the individual properties. As always, titles play an important role, and I found myself gravitating toward an apartment entitled "Jacuzzi with ocean view". Sweet!

Apartment Listings

As you can see in the screenshot above, you get all the vital info nicely laid out for each listing.

Tabbed horizontal navigation lets you see an overview of the apartment, made up of photos.

By the way, is that a rooftop infinity pool I see in the bottom right?

The Calendar tab is a visual display of the apartment's availability.

The Map shows where in the city it's located, and the Amenities tab is self-explanatory.

Along the right side, you've got the price, and some basic info about the property, and renters' policies.

Below the property details is a Host box which indicates the owner's response rate and a field where you can type your questions to him/her.

If the owner puts together a good listing, you probably won't have many questions.

Further down, there's more space for additional information about the apartment.

For this property, the owner mentions a tax is not included in the cost, the need for the renter to inspect the apartment upon arrival (for damages), and the amount of the required security deposit ($150).

The Booking Process

After reviewing a bunch of similar apartments, I ultimately settled on the apartment in downtown Lima with the rooftop jacuzzi.

When I clicked the "Book It" button, a pop-up appeared with a default inquiry written to the host inquiring about the availability.

I think this is optional, as I didn't get the pop-up on at least one other property for which I clicked the booking button.

I sent the message and heard back from the host via a message in the Wimdu system confirming the apartment's availability for my preferred dates.

Wimdu's messaging system doesn't allow you to include contact information in the messages until the apartment has been booked and paid for. I'm guessing this is a security feature.

With the green light from the host, I was then able to book the apartment. I was happy to see PayPal as a payment option, in addition to major credit cards like Visa.

Again, the easier a site or service can make my life (in this instance, the payment process), the more likely I am to continue using them.

Once the payment was made, I received another message from the host.

We each had a few questions for one another, and we set up a time to meet at the building where I'll provide the security deposit in exchange for the keys to my one-week bachelor pad in Lima's most popular neighborhood.

So far, I've found Wimdu's site and service easy to use. The next test will be when I go to meet the host, get the keys, and check out the property in person.

Will it live up to the photos in the listing? And just how nice is that ocean view from the rooftop jacuzzi? Stay tuned to find out.

Decadent Dining at Tiesto's Restaurant

4 of the 8 homemade salsas that accompany the complimentary bread — Four of eight homemade salsas that accompany the bread

My time in Ecuador was running out, and I'd yet to eat a meal that blew me away.

I looked up the best restaurants in Cuenca on Trip Advisor, and Tiesto's Restaurant was ranked number one, complete with glowing reviews.

It was a Saturday afternoon, and I walked over from my hostel without delay. Despite having read a few reviews, I had no expectations.

The business hours hung from the front door. I managed just to catch the end of the lunch service.

The restaurant was packed with a mix of Ecuadorian and foreign diners.

I made my way back to the hostess' desk, where I was asked to wait a moment while a small table was cleared.

There are two small rooms near the front of the restaurant, and a large one in the back, which includes the kitchen.

I was seated in one of the small front rooms.

Locro de papa is a cheesy potato soup — Locro de papa is a traditional Ecuadorian potato soup, garnished with avocado

My waiter quickly gave me a menu, and when chef/owner Juan noticed me taking photos of it, he brought one over without the laminated pages.

Chef Juan, I quickly noticed, was a man about the house. While the kitchen was visible from the dining area, that wasn't enough.

He took time to visit every table in the restaurant, including mine.

Half the menu was dedicated to dishes served family-style (for two to four people), and there were a few vegetarian options as well.

I ordered the Locro de Papa ($4) as a starter, followed by Pollo al Curry con Macadamia ($11.50).

Only later, as I was trying to enjoy every ounce of curry, did I realize how ambitious it was of me to order a thick, dense soup on top of the main course.

But before I could even get my hands on the soup, the waiter had brought out eight unique salsas and toppings for the complimentary bread.

I was immediately overwhelmed! What were they all? Even if he told me at the time, there were too many to remember.

I experimented: the pink sauce was spicy, the green was chimichurri.

I'd first tried Locra de Papa, the traditional Ecuadorian potato, cheese, and avocado soup after my hike in El Cajas National Park.

I'd had it another time since, but Tiesto's version was by far the best, both in terms of presentation and amount of avocado offered.

The chicken curry?

Culinary nirvana.

Orgasmic.

Heaven on a plate.

Juan, the chef/owner of Tiesto's, at work in the open kitchen

Stuffed is an understatement after eating lunch at Tiesto's Restaurant that Saturday afternoon.

By the time I was finished, the only thing on my mind was getting back to my hostel to lay down.

That's usually a feeling reserved for Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners.

As I was leaving, I passed Chef Juan, who was enjoying lunch himself now that the restaurant had closed.

We exchanged business cards, and I told him his food was the best I'd had in my two months traveling Ecuador.

Later that night, I was walking by the restaurant with Ryan when I looked across the street and saw Juan in the doorway.

He called out, inviting me back for langostinos.

I replied that I was leaving the city on Monday.

He suggested a Sunday lunch.

How could I refuse?

6 giant langostinos drenched in butter sauce — Six giant langostinos drenched in butter sauce

I slept late Sunday morning, on account of a late-night out in Cuenca's clubs, but the personal invitation from Chef Juan, and the thought of buttery langostinos were too good to pass up.

Once again, I arrived at the restaurant in the early afternoon, as lunch was in full swing.

I didn't know what to expect; it's not every day a chef invites me to lunch.

Upon entering the main dining room, I was seated at a reserved table right in front of the kitchen, generally referred to as the "chef's table."

So this is what it feels like to be Anthony Bourdain, I thought.

The waiter handed me a menu, but Chef Juan plucked it out of my hands and put in the order for Langostinos for two, even though I'd arrived alone, yet again.

(The girl I was seeing was unavailable that day, and I couldn't call Ryan because I was out of minutes on my phone.)

The table was adjacent to the serving station for all those homemade salsas, so they were in front of me in no time.

Not much later, a plate of 6 langostinos, bathed in bubbling hot butter, was placed before me.

Sides of potatoes, rice, couscous, and a cucumber salad were also presented.

I didn't stand a chance.

But I gave it my best shot anyway.

As I was beheading the langostinos, one by one, Chef Juan stopped for a moment to show me a tasty bit I'd been missing (near the abdomen, where the little legs connect).

I managed to down five of the six langostinos before tapping out as if I was moments away from being KO'd by butter.

Family dining — Sunday lunch at Tiesto's

If I didn't pick up on the family atmosphere during my first visit, it was clearly on display Sunday.

Several families were there, kids and all, sharing a variety of the family-style dishes.

My two meals at Tiesto's Restaurant were amongst the best this year, ranking up there with delicious sushi in Kyoto and the molecular gastronomy at El Cielo in Medellin.

But it wasn't just the terrifically decadent food that made it a memorable experience.

The element that makes Tiesto's unique is Chef Juan, and his willingness to step out of the kitchen, and talk with his customers.

Tiesto's Restaurant - Juan Jaramillo 7-34 y Antonio Borreo, Cuenca, Ecuador. Phone: (593) (7) 283 - 5310. Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 12:30 - 15:00 / 18:30 - 22:00, and Sunday 12:30 - 15:00.

Note: My second lunch was compliments of Chef Juan and Tiesto's.

Hiking El Cajas National Park in Ecuador

I first drove through El Cajas National Park (Parque Nacional Cajas) on the bus from Guayaquil to Cuenca, but I couldn't see a thing because it was in the early evening.

All I could tell, judging from the sharply colder air coming through my window, and the altimeter on my Casio watch, was that we were driving over a mountain pass 4,100 meters high.

Once I'd settled into Cuenca (elevation: 2,500 meters), I booked a day trip to go hiking in El Cajas National Park. I was joined by an older German couple.

Our day began with a walk through a beautiful, glacial valley (3,100 meters).

This part of the park is a cloud forest and home to a wide array of birds; however, there were few birds to be seen because it was a sunny day.

According to our guide, the native birds are more active when it's cloudy.

As pretty as the valley was, it wasn't unlike other glacial valleys I'd seen. It did, however, help serve to get us acclimatizing.

View of El Cajas National Park from 4,100 meters

We drove along the same highway my bus from Guayaquil had taken until we were at the pass, marked by a giant park sign (4,167 meters).

Our guide pointed across the highway at a mountain and said it was exactly along the Continental Divide.

The Continental Divide indicates to which ocean the rivers in the region will flow. Rivers on the Western side flow to the Pacific, while those on the Eastern side flow toward the Atlantic.

It seems hard to believe small rivers would flow from Southern Ecuador all the way to the Atlantic, but they go the long way, down and out through Brazil and the Amazon.

At the lodge near the entrance of the hiking trails, I ran into Sebastian, my bunkmate from the Galapagos cruise.

We'd exchanged Facebook info, but we hadn't been talking. It was completely random to run into him there.

Along with some friends, he was hiking the park independently, which is an easy way to save some money.

Flowers and plants get smaller in size the higher your elevation

As my group walked ever so slowly, hearts pounding, our guide pointed out different types of flora.

I'm always fascinated by the little flowers that manage to grow at such high altitudes.

The park is home to a wide range of animals, including pumas and wolves (we saw some fresh tracks).

Walking toward a forest, something you rarely see at 4,000 meters — Hiking to a forest

Forests are rare at elevations as high as 4,000 meters. However, El Cajas National Park is home to quinua forests, which as also known as "paper tree" forests because of the type of tree that grows there.

The bark is literally paper-thin. It's so thin, in fact, that it can be peeled off and used to roll tobacco, for example.

The twisting paper trees and moss-covered rocks gave it a fairytale-like feeling.

The quinua "paper tree" forest had a mystical Lord of the Rings feel to it

It was certainly unlike any other forest I'd ever walked through. I imagine in winter when it's coated with fresh, white snow, it's even more amazing.

Hearts still pounding, we made our way back to the car and drove short ways for a late lunch at a nice mountain lodge.

It was here that I discovered one of my favorite Ecuadorian dishes -- Locro de Papa.

It's a creamy potato soup with a slice of avocado thrown in, and optionally, a chunk of cheese. The main course was fried trucha (trout).

Whether you go hiking in El Cajas National Park as part of a tour or with friends, the unique scenery and flora are not to be missed.

Falling for Cuenca in Southern Ecuador

La Catedral in Cuenca, Ecuador — View of the three blue domes atop La Catedral

I spent two weeks in Cuenca, but it could've just as easily been two months.

The center of Ecuador's third-largest city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, feels small and safe like a pueblo yet offers a much wider variety of dining and nightlife options.

Architecturally, it looks like Cartagena was transplanted into the mountains. I'd also liken it to an old European city, complete with narrow, one-way cobblestone streets.

To be blunt, it blows the historic city center of Quito out of the water.

Cuenca also acts as a convenient base for exploring the region, including archaeological sites and nearby El Cajas National Park.

Monumental front facade of La Catedral — The monumental front facade of La Catedral

On my second day, I met a local woman, and we proceeded to spend quite a bit of time together (one of many reasons it pays to learn Spanish).

Our regular meeting point was in front of the massive Cathedral. We'd go for food, drinks, or salsa dancing. On the best nights, all three.

Maybe it's my fondness for architecture, but I found it incredibly romantic to be meeting my date in front of a cathedral as grand as the one in Cuenca.

Walking around, arm in arm, I'd notice just how many other couples were doing the same.

There was a sense of tradition in the city and its people, which I found endearing.

Langostinos bathed in garlic butter at Tiesto's Restaurant

As I travel around the rest of South America, I'm keeping an eye out for places where I could see myself living for an extended time.

To fit the bill and compete with the likes of Medellin, the city has to have fun nightlife.

Eating and dancing are my hobbies beyond travel and blogging, and I was excited to find Cuenca delivered on both fronts.

Over my two-week stay, I discovered new Ecuadorian dishes, gave cuy a second try, got my sushi fix with Ant and Elise of Positive World Travel, lunched at an authentic Indian restaurant, and overdosed on langostinos at Tiesto's, the #1 rated restaurant on Trip Advisor.

Salsa dancing at Zoe on a Saturday night

On the first Thursday night in town, I went dancing at Cafe Verde, Pinton y Maduro.

The small discoteca had just enough people to create a fun atmosphere without an overcrowded dance floor.

As I got to know my date's dance style, I was also taking note of the other dancers. In particular, one bald guy (in the picture above) was an excellent salsa dancer.

A few nights later, we were walking around Cuenca's Zona Rosa when I heard salsa music coming out of a place called Zoe.

A poster indicated it was salsa night, so naturally, I wanted to check it out.

The quality of the dancing was very high in there. The majority of dancers were Ecuadorian, but a handful of foreign women were also sporting their dancing shoes.

After a few songs in the crowded main level, my date and I sought seats and space on the second floor. Small tables lined the balcony.

However, there was no room to dance around them, so we took over the empty bar up there instead.

We danced for a solid three hours until I could dance no more-the usual suspects.

As much fun as I was having in the nights, I also enjoyed my days.

I'd sit in the garden of hostel Macondo, writing and working on the new design for Go Backpacking.

The hostel was akin to a Bed & Breakfast, featuring the most comfortable bed I'd have in Ecuador, delicious fresh bread for breakfast, and dependable Wi-Fi.

The white church I walked by every day in Cuenca

As easy as it is to meet new people traveling, sitting still in one city works best if you want to meet other travel bloggers.

In addition to meeting up with Ant and Elise (Positive World Travel), I hung out with Ryan (Ryan Goes Abroad), who I'd first met in Medellin, and Priyank (Final Transit), a long time reader.

After two weeks, I forced myself to leave Cuenca. The longer I stayed, the harder it would be to move on. I promised myself I could always return.

How to Enjoy the Fall Foliage in the USA

Editor's Note: I'm excited to welcome back Suzanne Nance as a regular contributor. She previously wrote a guest post on preparation tips for climbing at high altitudes based on her experience climbing the tallest mountains on each of the 7 continents.

Get Out Doors. Now! Fall is in full bloom.

Cold nights, warm days, and summer rains have produced the perfect fall foliage in many parts of the United States.

Great swaths of the country are awash with color. Trees and bushes are currently in their full regalia.

A painter's palette of colors, scarlet, yellow, amber, orange, and purple, tied together with a splatter of brown and defiant green, should not be missed.

It sounds like a perfect time for a road trip!

Grab your binoculars, wind jacket, a pair of hiking boots, and your posses. This adventure should be shared.

I know there are many spectacular places in our country to see the change of season.

However, I'm a bit partial to the Great Lake States, as it's where I grew up.

I invite everyone to explore my childhood stomping ground. The Great Lakes states are a showcase of color at the moment, but don't wait!

Leaves are like roses, they only last two weeks, and strong winds can shorten that.

For great fall foliage viewing, I suggest picking one of the Great Lakes Circle Drives. Just pick any Great Lake and go for it!

You can find detailed information online or head out with a map in hand.

I suggest a roadmap and not a Goggle Map app just in case you have any desire to wander off course.

There are two disadvantages to using a phone app.

Yes, it's easy to go from one location to another by plugging in a city's name and then the next point of destination.

However, that will not allow for any change of venue.

Say you want to go in a different direction, maybe east or west? The app will only connect two dots.

Two: cell phone reception wanes the further north you go.

You might not get enough signal strength to use your phone; therefore, an app may be useless.

You can hop on the circle tours at any point. It's not like a board game that has a "Start" and a "Finish."

I start my tour in Chicago.

I can head on the Michigan Lake Great Circle Tour in either direction, north through Wisconsin or south around the Lake to Michigan.

Either way, the lake-hugging route in and around Chicago requires that you get on US 41 and/or Illinois Route 137.

The problem is, it's traffic-congested and just plan, slow going.

This path is great for gawking at ridiculously large, mansion-style homes or viewing Chicago from Lakeshore Drive, but not much for leaf-peeping.

I like to head north to WI, and, because I like to get out of Illinois as quickly as possible, I prefer taking the toll road up to the WI border.

It's a great alternative to the smaller Lake hugger route and allows quicker access to wide-open scenic vistas.

After all, my main objective is to get outdoors, not just sit in the car as the scenery streams by.

Once past Milwaukee, things really open up.

The topography of eastern Wisconsin consists of gently rolling hills, dotted with dairy farms, the kind that still permits their cows to munch grass outdoors.

Every farm has its own stand of trees, windows, or windbreaks; some planted for the demarcation of fields.

The state is littered with relatively close-spaced towns and cities.

Though the cities now provide the majority of support, in the way of big, box chain stores, restaurants, and amusement, the little towns still accommodate everyday life.

Many still have a post office, a local bank, churches, a tavern, and consolidated school systems.

Side note: if you ever need help with trees on your property, check out The Local Tree Experts.

As I drive along US 43, the red maples, burning bushes, and chrysanthemum planted by the inhabitants lend a look of a fireworks display.

The colors of the native trees and foliage, the non-native vegetation, and the planted crops' remnants add to the spectacular horizon as one drives along.

The contrast in color continues to impress as I drive through Green Bay, Sturgeon Bay, Marionette, and Menominee, each a portal to the Great North Woods.

Usually, once I'm over the Michigan border, I can' stand it any longer. I have to get outside.

I pull over to one of many roadside parks dotting Lake Michigan shoreline.

There I walk to the water's edge, gazing up and down the coast, usually a stiff wind in my face and cold sand at my feet. It looks magnificent.

Bluish gray, water, a low hung sun, yellow-topped trees, seagulls screaming, and lakeshore cottages dotting the shore. This is what I've come for.

Once in Michigan, the possibilities are endless.

There are the Porcupine Mountains, the Painted Rocks Shoreline near Munising, Upper and Lower Tahquamenon Falls, Presque Isle at Marquette, Copper River north of Houghten, even AuTrain Beach Recreation Area shoreline park.

These are just a few personal favorites where hiking, camping, and fall leaf viewing are a treat.

One has to decide where to go.

To continue on the Lake Michigan Circle Tour, I need to follow M 43 along the Lake to Escanaba.

Shallow bays, picturesque north-woods scenery, big tree forests, water birds, and shore hugging homes welcome the traveler northward.

Once in Escanaba, the road merges into M 41.

Michigan boasts of its convenient campgrounds and family-run motels.

National forests claim a great percentage of forested lands, where accommodations can be had for a park pass price. Many parks can be spotted along this route.

It's easy to find a place to pitch a tent, pull out a sleeping bag, then lie back and try to catch a glimpse of the Aurora Borealis.

At the very least, it's possible to observe the Milky Way as it's never been seen before.

Family-run motels are a fraction of the price of a big chain hotel. They are warm, cozy, and friendly.

Oftentimes, there is still a stand-alone cabin that has a bed, bath, and is complete with a desk and lamp.

Often, they dot the highways just outside of little towns and cities or are nestled randomly into the woods with beach access. It's an experience not to be missed.

Not only are day hikes and accommodations easily accessible, but the food is also inexpensive and plentiful.

Friday Fish Fry's are a must! Lake trout, White Fish, or Perch, all locally caught, are prepared to your liking.

For a hardy local flare, I love to pick up a pastie.

An old Cornish staple for miners. Pasties are a mainstay; a complete meal that miner's wives could send off with their man as they headed out for a hard days labor in the copper mines.

Family-owned restaurants serve homemade lunches and sweet treats. Ice cream cones are both cheap and bountiful, often rippled with Mackinaw Fudge.

It's easy to head on around the Lake to lower Michigan.

I could stay on Highway 41 until Rapid River. There I would take US 2 out of town.

It briefly heads in a northerly direction, then slowly bends around the Lake, making its way eastward. From there, the road leads to the Bridge.

When heading in this direction, I don't need a reason to get out of the car. It's a requirement.

Raw, rocky, windy shores facing south toward Door County and onward to Chicago.

Standing on this primitive, still pristine shoreline gives a completely different experience than I could glean from standing on Lake Michigan's southern shores in and around Chicago.

Just a days drive north; it's nearly incomprehensible that such a place can still exist on Lake Michigan. Isolated, raw, and uninhabited. Who knew?!

I chose another direction on this trip. I'm taking my own circle drive. Instead of heading toward St. Ignace and the Mackinaw Bridge, I take US 41 north.

I cut across the heart of upper Michigan, heading toward Lake Superior.

Dark woods seem to envelop the road on either side. As I reach the tiny town of Trenary, I must make a right onto M 67.

As I pass through an almost forgotten farming town, I smell, then see a small bakery. I stop for a snack.

Inside, I am welcomed by the alluring smells of warm baked goods and a core reaching warmth.

Asking for their specialty, the bakers produce a bag of toast, Trenary Toast. It resembles an Italian loaf, cut into an inch & ½ to 2-inch slices.

Surprisingly, the slice is hard. It's coated on both sides with a mixture of cinnamon and sugar.

I learn that it is an old Finnish favorite; cinnamon toast (korpu).

I'm told it's best dunked in a beverage, hot coffee or tea, just enough to soak up a bit of liquid, but told not to let it melt in the brew. The shelf life of this stuff is five months.

Ideal for camping! I buy a 10 oz brown bag and another traditional Finnish baked good, rye bread (limpu).

As I get back on my route, I head out of the 4-cornered town. Back on the road, I can see Sand Hill Cranes flying high in the sky.

Migrating south. The countryside is mostly wood of pine, maple, and ancient apple trees. The farms are old and mostly unproductive.

There is a crispness and purity in the air. Perhaps it's the onslaught of winter, the end of a season.

Whatever it is that makes the air seem so ethereal, I cannot say. I hope I just don't OD on this stuff.

I come to another crossroads, Chatham Corners.

I must make a right to get to Munising, on highway M 94. For fall foliage viewing, this is a spectacular drive.

The highway runs through the Hiawatha National Forest. Great stands of third-generation trees spread endlessly.

The colors are breathtaking, and the topography is unexpected.

Rolling hills, with heights near 1000 ft, dropping hundreds of feet dramatically, yielding to great, green swamps and gigantic reeds with enormous, brown cattails.

On the way, I pass by an old dam with iron colored water on the edge of the community of Forest Lake, a couple of old buildings with tar paper and shingles, circa the years of construction.

Once into Munising, I must take M 28. This will take me along another Great Lake, Lake Superior.

The topography here matches the extremes of highway M 94. Once on top of 1000 ft hills, the view is incredible.

Steel-blue water of Lake Superior, outlined by sandy beaches, yellow leaves, green conifers, and multi-hued hardwoods.

The vista is simply eye candy. The highway winds its way along the coast, finally meeting up, once again with M 41.

Circle complete.

For a weekend getaway, a couple of day road trip, or an extended vacation, this is a must for leaf-peeping. Just don't delay. Get out now.

The leaves won't wait, and the experience won't either.

Enjoying Montanita: Ecuador's Surf and Hippie Hangout

Kativa & I on Avenida de los Cocteles — Kativa & I take over Poeta's bar on Avenida de los Cocteles

I arrived in Montanita on a Saturday afternoon, the busiest day of the week, in the little surf and hippie hangout on Ecuador's Pacific coast.

The streets were filled with a mix of vacationing Ecuadorians, dreadlocked South American hippies, and surfers from around the world.

My friend Kevin likened Montanita to a "backpacker vortex" because it sucks travelers into its laid-back, daily rhythm of life.

After spending two weeks, and three weekends there, I wholeheartedly agree. Montanita quickly grew to become one of my favorite places in the world.

And much like my visits to Indonesia's Gili Trawangan and Belize's Caye Caulker, my time in Montanita was defined not by a single amazing experience but rather by all the little ones that collectively made up the whole.

Table of Contents

Making Friends
The Beach
A Room with a View
Sunday Night Concerts
Sampling the Street Food
Feliz Cumpleanos a Mi

Making Friends

I met Kativa and Whitney that first Saturday night at Hola Ola, a Western-owned bar known for its weekly Ladies Night every Thursday and Saturday's "all-you-can-drink-for-$6" night.

(Note: both open bars are only about two hours, and the drinks they peddle are a heavily liquored vodka-juice combination that's intended to get you drunk before you realize how terrible it tastes.)

Montanita is a short two-and-a-half-hour bus ride from Guayaquil, so it's common for the town to swell with partying Guayaquilenos on the weekends.

Kativa's outgoing personality (and cute looks) immediately caught my attention.

We ended up spending the following week together: drinking, dancing, speaking in Spanish, and walking in countless circles around town.

She had lived there for a few months previously and seemed to know everyone. And if she didn't know someone, she would change that quickly.

The Beach

Montanita was originally a surf destination. If you talk to the local expats, it won't take long to meet some who talk of the days when they first visited years ago, before the paved roads and Wi-Fi-enabled hostels were constructed today.

I've already tried my hand at surfing around the world, so I spent my time taking reflective walks down the beach to The Point (a rocky outcropping at the North end) and back.

On one occasion, I walked with Kativa to The Point in the late morning at low tide.

We continued beyond the "danger" sign, walking past tidal pools until we had turned the corner of the cliff.

We were suddenly alone, with only the sound of the crashing surf against the jagged rocks. We were rewarded for our valor with a view of the neighboring pueblo further up the coast.

Other popular beach activities included soccer and volleyball, eating ceviche, and the typical tanning and people-watching.

A Room with a View

Arriving late on a Saturday afternoon, I walked into the first oceanside hostel I saw and ponied up for a private room.

The next day as I shopped around, I quickly found I was paying three times the typical rate.

I moved to Hostal Papaya in the center of town, where I proceeded to lose any ability to sleep due to the constant noise, a mix of cement mixers and construction on the hotel across the street, and music blaring until 3 AM from the local bars and discotecas.

If I was going to stay in Montanita another week until my birthday, I had to find a quieter room.

I gave up Wi-Fi access in favor of a room with an ocean view at Mochica Sumpa. I offered to pay a week upfront, and they slashed the room rate in half (to $10/night).

Despite the presence of a big discoteca 50 meters away, the loud music was softened by the sounds of the waves crashing on the rock retaining wall at high tide.

The ocean was so loud, I wondered at first if it would keep me awake as well, but I quickly got used to the new soundtrack playing outside my room.

Sunday Night Concerts

Every Sunday night, after the weekend party crowd goes home, Montanita becomes super-chill again.

Sunday nights were my favorite for this reason, as well as the concerts and performances held outside the Mochica Sumpa Hostal.

Around 10 PM, a singer from Guayaquil would perform a set with a group of local musicians. He sang slow enough that I was able to understand some of the songs in Spanish.

After the Guayaquileno sang, others would perform. And it wasn't just musicians.

Some very talented local jugglers would do their thing, and on my 2nd Sunday, there was a full-fledged visiting circus -- clowns and all!

On my third and final Sunday in town, before the Guayaquileno singer performed, I introduced myself as a new fan.

I then recorded his entire 40-minute set that night, as I knew it would always be a way for me to return to those Sunday nights in Montanita.

Pizza for sale on the streets of Montanita

Sampling the Street Food

While there are plenty of restaurants in Montanita, none featured food that really stood out to me. Instead, I became a fan of street food.

There are the regular vendors, mostly Ecuadorian though I met some Colombians from Cali selling Colombian-style empanadas.

And then there are the hippies walking the streets with platters of homemade pizza, empanadas, and sweet pastries.

The hippie food was my favorite. Most portions cost one US dollar, and you knew the money was helping them live their hippy lives.

"Happy" brownies (aka pot brownies) were also openly for sale on the weekends. Weed was certainly the most benign drug available for partiers in Montanita.

The police don't strictly enforce the drug laws there, which might explain all the hippies!

Feliz Cumpleanos a Mi

I enjoyed Montanita so much, I stayed a third weekend to celebrate my 35th birthday.

My friend Jodi of Legal Nomads likes to celebrate her birthdays by climbing mountains around the world.

I prefer to spend it dancing the night away in Latin clubs. Preferably salsa dancing.

To kick the night off, I had a mojito mixed by an Ecuadorian friend, Fatima, who I'd met through Kativa the week before.

Fatima had just moved Montanita from Guayaquil and was working for one of the cocktail vendors.

I don't think her new boss was too happy she took off work early on a Saturday night to help me celebrate, but I certainly appreciated it.

We went to my discoteca of choice, Nativa Bambu, which overlooks the ocean and features the biggest dance floor in town.

While there was a dire lack of salsa played that night, I still had a lot of fun dancing to the merengue and reggaeton.

As with my 34th birthday in Medellin, I couldn't have been happier to be celebrating my 35th in the friendly surfer/hippie enclave of Montanita, Ecuador.

Eating Cuy Asado (Guinea Pig) in Ecuador

Eating cuy asado was high on my to-do list in Ecuador, despite having a guinea pig named Patches as a pet when I was a kid. After all, having dogs as pets didn't stop me from trying that meal in Cambodia.

On the main street in Banos, two cuy restaurants are adjacent to the Mercado (market).

These are small, dark, smoky restaurants frequented by vacationing Ecuadorians and the occasional tourist who tries the local delicacy.

Despite hearing Cuenca was known for cuy, I couldn't wait any longer. One afternoon, I walked into one of the cuy restaurants and took a table in the back.

There was little light, which may have been a good thing. The cuy prices were hanging on the wall: $19 for the whole animal, $9 for half, or about $4 for a quarter.

I ordered half a cuy, which turned out to be rather ambitious, and a Coke to wash it down.

Outside the restaurants in Banos, you can see the cuy asado being cooked over hot coals. Three at a time are impaled on a large, pronged stick, then rotated slowly over the fire.

I watched my cuy being hacked with a cleaver. I was presented with the head, tail section, two front quarters, and some white rice and potatoes.

Cuy (guinea pig) in Ecuador — Cuy asado (roasted guinea pig) with rice and potatoes.

Initial attempts to try and eat the greasy little monster with a knife and fork quickly failed. I commented to the waitress about my difficulties, and she said it's easier to use my hands.

I began picking at the front quarters. The crisp and crunchy skin reminded me of the pork skin I'd eaten in Ubud, Bali.

Underneath it was a slimy, greasy layer of fat and a razor-thin section of meat, which tasted like chicken.

Further down, all you'd get were bones and organs. While I was honored to receive the head, complete with brain intact, I'd already been down that road with skop in South Africa.

I ate the rice and potatoes to give the impression I'd eaten more of my lunch than I had. I wasn't fooling anyone and felt as though I didn't do the little piggies life justice.

A few weeks later, I took an Ecuadorian date in Cuenca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to dinner at a much nicer cuy restaurant.

I wanted to try it again, convinced I was missing the joy of eating this little animal. Despite the more comfortable surroundings, and company who enjoyed the food, a cuy is a cuy, claws and all.

10 National Dishes from Southeast Asia

I'm going to introduce you to some of the most incredible national dishes from Southeast Asia.

This region of the world is so diverse when it comes to cuisines. It's a real treat being able to live and eat here. Prepare to become hungry. Let's dig in!

Table of Contents

The Countries

The Countries

1. Indonesia - Nasi Padang

Due to the vast spread out archipelago of Indonesia, it's almost impossible to label a real national dish for the entire country.

I've just gone ahead and mentioned a normal everyday meal of Nasi Padang that consists of a plate of rice topped with a choice of dishes.

When I was in Indonesia, I would often get fish curry, some kind of green vegetables, a little bit of soybean cake (tempeh), and a big scoop of sambal chili sauce!

2. The Philippines - Adobo

Among the many comforting Filipino dishes like sizzling pig's face or sour sinigang soup, adobo still remains one of the most widely available and popular dishes.

Normally pork or chicken are cooked with a combination of soy sauce, oil, vinegar, garlic, and ginger to create a rich salty and slightly sour sauce.

A bowl of pork adobo goes exceptionally well with a hot plate of steamed rice!

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3. Brunei - Ambuyat

When it comes to Brunei's national dish, sticky is an understatement.

When I traveled to Brunei just for a single day, it was my mission to devour some of the local dishes, and ambuyat was what I came across.

The dish is made with sago palm starch that is cooked into a glue-like substance and eaten along with sour fermented sauce and an arrangement of vegetables and soup.

4. Singapore - Chicken Rice

Singapore, though a small nation (and city), is very proud of its vibrant cuisine.

People are passionate about eating, and their mix of cultures has created a pretty awesome food culture.

Simple boiled chicken, sliced and placed over rice is a ubiquitous meal in Singapore.

The key to the chicken and rice lies within the red chili sauce served alongside.

5. Malaysia - Nasi Lemak

Nasi Lemak is messy, saucy, fatty (nasi lemak actually translates to "fatty rice" in Malay) and ultimately delicious.

As a country that is passionate about their Malaysian food, you better believe nasi lemak is a hit!

The dish consists of coconut rice and a mix of other ingredients served in a banana leaf.

The one pictured above was served with a piece of fried chicken, a half-cooked fried egg, and a crazy amount of some of the best-tasting red sauce I've ever had in my life!

6. Thailand - Pad Ga Pao

It's hard to choose a national dish of Thailand as the culinary culture is so incredibly rich and diverse.

There is however a Thai food that almost all Thais revert to when all else fails, or they don't know what else to order: pad gra pao moo kai dao.

A choice of meat is stir fried up with garlic, chilies, and holy basil. It's then placed over rice, and a fried egg is added on top.

7. Cambodia - Amok Fish

Amok, which is a coconut-infused steamed fish cake, is one of the national treasure dishes that Cambodia is well known for.

The standard procedure is to wrap the fish, spices, and coconut cream in a banana leaf and steam it to perfection. It's best eaten with rice and chili sauce.

8. Laos - Somtam, Sticky Rice

Green papaya salad (somtam) and sticky rice are a combination that is genuinely Laotian.

Som tam is made with shredded green papaya that is tossed in a couple of different versions, some containing fermented fish sauce, while other variations are just dressed with lemon juice.

The typical procedure is to dip a ball of sticky rice into the dressing for flavor.

9. Vietnam - Pho

Vietnamese food, in general, is well known for its freshness and heavy use of herbs.

One of the national dishes from Southeast Asia I want to introduce you to is Vietnamese rice noodles in a bowl of broth made from either chicken or beef.

The noodles are normally lightly seasoned with a few herb sprigs and a scoop of chili paste. Pho is found all over the streets of Vietnam.

10. Burma - Mohinga

One of the most popular dishes in Burmese cuisine is a bowl of rice noodles known as mohinga.

Instead of thin clear soup, mohinga is more of a thick creamy fish stew that is filled with rice noodles and topped with deep fried fritters and sprinkled with a squirt of lime juice.

Guinness, My Goodness

Guinness St James Gate Brewery, Dublin (1998)

In Dublin's fair city, where the girls are so pretty, I first learned to appreciate stout beers. Guinness, to be exact.

I've never been particularly adept at distinguishing the nuances and flavors of different beers, which might explain why I can so easily appreciate Guinness. A thick, dark stout, with a creamy head.

It's incredibly easy to tell a Guinness from any other beer. A proper pint is like a meal unto itself. And in Ireland, I was all too happy to get my fill.

My introduction to Guinness began at the source, St. James Gate Brewery.

The date was August 18, 1998, and the cost of a self-guided tour with student discount was just $4.50.

The brewery tour included a pint at the end, which made it worth the admission.

The actual tour itself? Not so interesting, but the gift shops were filled with those wonderful, old advertisements which continue to adorn traditional Irish pubs around the world.

Later that night, I paid a visit to Temple Bar, the epicenter of Dublin's nightlife, at least back then.

There were two main pub crawls to choose from - a literary one, and a musical one. As much as I enjoyed James Joyce in high school, I opted for the musical pub crawl.

The crawl was lead by Anthony, who played the guitar and bodhran, and Nell, a pretty young lass who played the fiddle.

Together, our merry band visited three pubs. In each new venue, we drank pints of Guinness and tried our best to sing along to the traditional Irish songs.

By the end, I was sufficiently intoxicated to drop $15 on a signed CD.

As touristy as the pub crawl might sound, it was a highlight of my two-week jaunt through Ireland.

During the rest of my stay in the country, I looked for every opportunity to hang out in pubs, drink Guinness (and later Kilkenny), and listen to the trad music.

Ireland was the last country I visited on my first backpacking trip to Europe, and I toted home a can of Guinness and Jameson whiskey from Dublin as a reminder of the experience.

I declared to my parents, upon my arrival back in the States, a desire to have been born Irish.

Like Italy, I always imagined I'd have gotten back to Ireland again a lot sooner. It was costly then, and it's only become more expensive in recent years.

Top 5 Ways to Get Wet & Wild in Banos

Cascada de la Virgen in Banos Ecuador — The hot springs at the base of Cascada de la Virgen

Banos is the undisputed adventure capital of Ecuador. This tiny pueblo sits at the base of the looming Tungurahua Volcano, along a river, and amidst gorgeous green mountains.

Visitors to Banos will quickly find a wealth of outdoor activities at budget-friendly prices.

The hardest decision you'll have to make is which activity to do first. And to help in that department, here are five ways to get wet and wild in Banos.

Cold water pool — The cold water pool may have been more inviting on a sunny day

Table of Contents

5. Bathe in the Hot Springs
4. Stand Under Pailon del Diablo
3. Visit in the Rainy Season
2. Go Whitewater Rafting
1. Abseil a Series of Waterfalls (Canyoning)

5. Bathe in the Hot Springs

Banos gets its name from the naturally-occurring thermal waters.

Many believe the mineral-rich water to have healing properties, however, during my visit to the pools at the base of Cascada de la Virgen, it felt more like a public pool in Summer.

On a weekday afternoon, I paid the $2 entrance fee and $1 towel rental for the privilege of being surrounded by dozens of Ecuadorian kids, couples, and families excited to be on vacation.

While hard for me to believe, it's supposed to be even more crowded in the evenings, especially Friday and Saturday nights.

Local Tip: El Salado is a newer hot spring complex located along a mountain stream a short taxi ride from the city center. Locals suggest you visit at 5 AM to enjoy the warm waters without the crowds.

Visitors standing in front of Pailon del Diablo — Expect to get drenched if you stand in front of Pailon del Diablo

4. Stand Under Pailon del Diablo

Traveling the Ruta de las Cascadas (Route of Waterfalls) is the most popular activity in Banos.

There are many ways to make the trip, including by bicycle, ATV, go-kart, and this author's preferred method -- double-decker bus ($6).

The most impressive waterfall on the route is Pailon del Diablo (Devil's Cauldron). It's about a 20-minute hike along a forest trail to reach the viewing platform of the waterfall.

If you want your picture taken directly in front of the falls, you're going to get drenched. Apparently quite a few Ecuadorians knew this because they were wearing bathing suits for their photos.

I wanted to get close, but not soaked, so I climbed up a slippery rock path that goes behind the falls. Thankfully I had a rain jacket, but I still got really wet.

It was worth it to stand behind such a powerful torrent of water thundering down from above.

The main street in Banos, Ecuador — The main street running through central Banos

3. Visit in the Rainy Season

File this entry under the "wet" side of this story.

I arrived in Banos at the start of the rainy season and had to make do with a day and a half of sunshine and blue skies out of nine days in town.

Luckily, most of the activities in the region go on rain or shine, as chances are you'd get wet from a river or waterfall anyways!

The river running through Banos Ecuador — The river running through Banos

2. Go Whitewater Rafting

Banos is a great place to go whitewater rafting, especially for beginners. The close proximity to the Pastaza River means rafting trips can be done as half days.

Rapids vary from Class II-IV, depending on the amount of rainfall and water levels.

Ant and Elise from Positive World Travel arrived in Banos soon after I had left, and they said they had a great time rafting there. It was Elise's first time too.

1. Abseil a Series of Waterfalls (Canyoning)

I first went canyoning in New Zealand over three years ago at the start of my round the world trip, and it was a blast. I'd been looking for an opportune time to go again ever since.

When I learned there was canyoning in Banos through Jack and Jill's travel blog, I knew it'd be atop my to-do list.

However, I put off canyoning until the end of my stay, and then I made the mistake of leaving my name with just one tour office (Geotours), instead of checking around. I almost missed the chance to go as they required a minimum of two people.

Luckily, Henry from Hostel Erupcion arranged for me to go with another company's guide. In effect, I was getting a private trip, but it'd be sans photos from the guide and bag lunch.

I didn't care.

The entrance to Rio Blanco's waterfalls is a short 15-minute drive out of Banos, followed by a 20-minute hike to the first cascade.

Waterfall #1 was 5 meters.

A good warm-up for the bigger ones to come. As I was standing on slippery rocks, waiting for my guide to hook up the ropes, I wondered what the hell I'd gotten myself into.

Once roped in, he gave me guidance for how best to navigate the first cascade, which was short, but a little bit more technical in nature.

And over the edge, I went.

Slowly.

Very...slowly.

And then I was down, carabiner unlatched and watching the guide scuttle down the slippery rocks to the left of the waterfall.

I looked at my dominant right hand, the one used to feed the rope and control my abseil, and noticed blood.

I asked the guide if he had any gloves...

Nope.

He responded to my befuddled look by suggesting I had "sensitive hands."

I ignored the pain, too excited to be playing Bear Grylls in the mountains of Ecuador.

Waterfall #2 was a solid 12 meters.

More than twice as tall as the first, but easier because the water was falling to the left, and the rock face was almost vertical.

I made it down faster, but I now had rope burns on three of my fingers, and the stinging pain was more acute.

I rinsed my hand in the cool water while I waited for the guide to set up the ropes again.

Waterfall #3 was a towering 35 meters (over 100 feet).

I could no longer fully grip the rope with my right hand, so I abseiled the third and largest waterfall by also using my left hand to feed the rope through the harness.

It was a jerkier descent, but I didn't have a choice.

Despite the pain, the third waterfall was my favorite, as it was a sheer drop, and therefore the easiest to get down.

After we exited the river, we were treated to some home cooking from the woman whose home was located near the pick-up point for our ride back to Banos.

Warm rice and veggies cooked on an open, wood fire beats a bagged lunch any day.

7 Safety Tips for Riding the Buses in Ecuador

Before I stepped onto my first bus in Ecuador, I'd already heard a handful of stories about people being robbed, backpacks being slashed, and valuables being stolen.

I could play defense in the capital city of Quito by limiting my time there and not going out at night.

If I wanted to visit the rest of Ecuador on a budget, it would mean exposing myself to potential thieves on the main bus routes.

Bus station in Quito — A bus station in Quito

In preparation for the three-hour trip from Quito to Banos, I did some Googling and found no shortage of other anecdotes.

They revealed the typical tactics of thieves and safety tips for riding the buses in Ecuador (learned the hard way).

During my time in Ecuador, I've applied them all and am convinced they helped protect me against at least one potential thief.

Table of Contents

Staying Safe on the Buses in Ecuador

Staying Safe on the Buses in Ecuador

1. Travel During the Day

Thanks to the socialist policies of the current President, the main highways throughout Ecuador are in excellent condition.

However, visibility will always be better during the day than at night, and landslides can occur without warning.

Plus, you'll be less likely to fall asleep during the day, thereby ensuring you're more alert to your surroundings.

You'll also be able to see more of the country.

2. Pay Extra for Direct Buses

Whenever possible, pay the extra few dollars to take direct (express) buses between cities.

They don't stop as often (if at all), thereby lessening the chances that a thief will get on or your main bag will disappear from underneath the bus.

CLP operates direct buses between Guayaquil and Montanita for $6 per ride, and another company operates direct buses between Guayaquil and Cuenca for $8.25.

3. Turn Down All Offers for Assistance

One common scam involves thieves boarding buses with regular passengers at the departure points and acting as if they work for the company.

They'll ask for your ticket to help show you to your seat, and then they'll offer to help place your daypack in the rack above your seat.

Once separated from your bag, they'll be in a good position to steal it and walk off the bus just as it begins to depart.

Aside from the driver or conductor helping to place your large backpack under the bus, if someone offers to handle your baggage, respond with a firm, polite "no gracias."

This is precisely what I said to the young guy who wanted first to show me to my seat and then help me with my daypack on the bus from Montanita to Guayaquil.

4. Sit in the First Row

I'm convinced the safest place on the bus is seat #1, in the first row, against the left window, right behind the driver's seat.

In this seat, you have nobody in front of you or to your left. You only need to be concerned about the person sitting to your right and those immediately behind you.

Aisle seats are a terrible idea because buses can fill up as they travel from one destination to the next, to the point where it's standing room only in the aisle.

If you're not paying attention to all the people coming and going, one of them can quickly grab your bag or surgically slash it open and remove your valuables.

To get seat #1, or any seat in the first row, ask for it when you're buying your ticket.

In Spanish, say "asiento en frente del bus, por favor," which translates as "seat in front of the bus, please."

If your Spanish fails you, or you forget, do your best to mime it, and they'll get the picture.

5. Keep Valuables In Your Lap

If there is one tip in this list you cannot ignore, keep your valuables/daypack/purse in your lap.

Do not think that keeping it securely between your legs is sufficient, let alone placing it above you in an overhead rack.

Most bus theft stories online, such as this one on a bus from Quito to Cuenca, are due to travelers having their bags slashed while they rest between their legs.

For this reason, it's also a good idea to wear a money belt (if you have one) when in transit -- there's no safer place for your passport, credit cards, and cash.

6. Assess Your Surroundings

While there's no one-size-fits-all stereotype for thieves, a mother holding a baby in the seat next to you is much less of a threat than a male teenager.

Unfortunately, little kids are not always as innocent as we'd like to believe.

Their small size makes them uniquely capable of squeezing under your seat to slash your bag (if it's placed on the floor, not in your lap where it belongs).

Along the same lines, save your Spanish practice with the locals for another time. Treat any overly friendly conversation with a dose of skepticism.

Thieves rely on distracting their victims, and one way to do that is to build some rapport and comfort, so the victims drop their guards.

It's also common for thieves to work in teams. One person may distract you with a conversation while the other is busy sliding a razor through your backpack and emptying its contents.

On my three-hour bus from Quito to Banos, I had a half dozen different people, from young school kids to older adults, sit next to me. I didn't speak a word.

7. Stay Alert

Speaking of distraction, don't let yourself get too engrossed in that Steven Segal action flick playing on the TV, the book you're reading, or music you might be listening to on your smartphone.

Be extra alert whenever the bus stops and someone new gets on board, whether a passenger or a vendor selling food.

If you follow all of these safety tips for riding the buses in Ecuador, you'll make yourself a more challenging target.

And thieves, especially the ones not looking for a confrontation, prefer easy targets.

What's In Your Backpack? Migrationology Edition

I guess many would consider my packing style to be minimal, though I don't really think of it that way myself because I carry all the things that I need.

Table of Contents

Packing Style
Backpack
Clothes
Toiletries
Electronics
Other Stuff
Note on Packing
Final Thought

Packing Style

When I travel, I like to pack with the mindset that I want to be able to carry all my stuff anywhere without it being a burden.

In other words, if I land in a new city and I need to walk 20 kilometers across a city, I want to be able to do it with everything I own.

So when I pack I keep this in mind and only carry an amount of stuff that won't hold me down.

I'm not a real minimalist.

Sure I've seen videos about those extreme, minimalist travelers that claim they own just 10 items but fail to mention that when they arrive anywhere, they must purchase a bar of soap or a new tube of toothpaste.

While I like to go light, I am also frugal with my things. If I happen to have a free bar of soap from a guest house, I will carry it along with me and use it until it's all gone.

Packing light, not buying many things along the way, and not wasting things is an effective strategy for saving money to travel.

Backpack

Right now, I'm using a midsize REI Lookout 40 backpack. Though the description claims it to be a daypack, I think it's just about perfect as a long term pack.

It's not too big, yet it's just slightly bigger than a normal school backpack. It allows me to slip in my computer, and fill the rest of the bag up with clothes and toiletries.

I also carry a Lowepro Passport Sling bag for my camera.

I really like this bag because it fits my DSLR nicely and there's also space for things like a bottle of water for a day out.

Another reason I really like it is that it is plain, and doesn't look too much like a traditional camera bag.

Clothes

I really don't like shopping and I try to avoid buying clothes as much as possible, so luckily I'm not one of those people who accumulates a giant wardrobe when traveling.

I normally won't buy a new shirt until my previous one is about to fall apart.

Here are the clothes I carry:

4 shirts
2 shorts (1 cargo shorts, 1 sports shorts)
1 pair of pants
3 pairs of underwear
2 pairs of socks (though I try to avoid wearing shoes as much as possible)
1 rain jacket

Of course, depending on weather conditions, this can always change. In order to carry just a small amount of clothes, I wash them quite frequently in the sink of wherever I'm staying.

If it's warm, I exclusively wear sandals (flip flops) though I do have a pair of Salomon XT Wings for hiking and other outdoor adventures.

Toiletries

I tend to live and travel rather maintenance free. I carry virtually nothing apart from a toothbrush, toothpaste, nail clippers, sun lotion, and a few normal toiletry odds and ends (like Tylenol). I also carry a small microfiber towel.

All my toiletries fit into a small, 2" x 6" little bag.

Electronics

Being a travel blogger, writer, and attempting to survive by means of the internet, there are a few gadgets that I carry around with me when I travel.

MacBook Pro

About 1.5 years ago I made the upgrade from a small netbook computer to a 13-inch MacBook Pro.

As I spend a lot of time on the computer writing, editing photos and cutting videos, it was a really beneficial upgrade.

Though I find the computer to be a little heavy, it's worth the lugging around! When buying a travel laptop you need to think about what you'll be using it for and how much you'll be using it.

Canon 550D

For a while, I traveled with only a small point and shoot camera, and for most purposes it was perfect.

However, my lust for photography and attempting to share higher quality photos justified my purchase of a DSLR Canon 550D full-size camera.

It's much heavier and bulkier than a point and shoot, but the photo quality can't be beat. It also shoots great HD videos.

Small Unlocked Phone

I don't have any sort of fancy phone, just a cheap unlocked phone strictly for making calls, not for doing e-mail or tweeting.

Other Stuff

There are also a number of things I carry that I don't get attached to and I try to recycle them in an ongoing cycle.

This includes things like books, plastic bags, water bottles, etc.

Note on Packing

What a lot of travelers don't realize is that almost everything one could possibly need (as long as it's not too personal or specialized) can be purchased in other countries around the world.

If the exact same thing can't be bought, there's often a substitute that may even work better, or cost less than buying it at home (we are all humans around the world and we all have some of the same wants/needs).

For instance, when I was in Egypt, I needed eye drops and when I went into the pharmacy, a bottle cost me about $0.50. That's much cheaper than they'd be in the United States.

Final Thought

Everyone packs differently, and all of us have our own unique comforts when we travel.

When you pack for a trip, make sure you have enough to be comfortable with, but don't overdo it so your things hold you back or tie you down.

When you start worrying about your stuff, it's time to analyze and scale down!

Losing My Travel Training Wheels in Florence

Euro-Traveler Award — One of my friends gave me this handwritten note before we split up

It was in Florence, Italy that my travel training wheels came off for the first time.

I'd left the U.S. for a Summer in Europe with four friends after college, and less than a week into the trip, there were already hints that several would be going home early. As in five to six weeks early.

And me, the anxious, over-planner who'd never set foot outside of the U.S. aside from family trips growing up?

I was having the time of my life after we arrived in Paris the night of the 1998 World Cup Final, museum-hopped in Amsterdam, partied in Prague and walked the backstreets of Venice.

Looking back, the signs of our inevitable split were glaringly apparent from the moment we touched down in France.

I wanted to visit every major medieval cathedral I'd studied in art and architecture classes, while several of my friends were too content to read books they brought with them.

The consensus was to leave Venice after a few nights, while I could've spent the rest of the summer there.

In one of a handful of decisions I've made in life where my choice was crystal clear, I opted to finish my European backpacking adventure on my own.

I said goodbye to my best friends as they walked out of our Florence hostel one afternoon.

And then I was alone...

...for all of five minutes.

Another backpacker had come into my dorm room, and we began talking about punk music.

We liked some of the same bands, and the instant rapport with this total stranger was reassuring at that moment. As though I knew I'd be OK traveling on my own from that point forward.

Without the insulating effect of traveling with good friends, I immediately realized how easy it was to meet other travelers in hostels.

The rest of my trip wasn't without its lonely moments. And even today, with instant access to friends around the world via Twitter and Facebook, I still feel pangs of loneliness while traveling.

But as I learned in Florence, if you accept those feelings as normal, that they come with the territory of exploring our world, you can learn to take them in stride.

Thirteen years later, I'm more inclined to rent an Airbnb in the city than stay in a hostel. It's the expat life I seek now more than the hostel life.

Because after staying in countless hostels over the years, I've realized they too are a form of training wheels I'm ready to lose.

VisaHQ: Online Travel Visa & Passport Services

Flying over the South Pacific on Air Tahiti Nui

Fact: In 2011, a paltry 30% of Americans have passports. By comparison, that's half the percentage of our friendly neighbor to the North, Canada.

If I can inspire one person without a passport to at least apply for one, with a vision of traveling overseas within the next 10 years, then I'd consider the last 5 years of blogging on Go Backpacking a success.

To make the process as easy as possible for you, Go Backpacking has partnered with VisaHQ*, a leading Washington, DC-based company offering online passport and travel visa services to Americans.

While I happened to live in a DC suburb, and could visit any number of Foreign Embassies in person to apply for visas before my 'round the world trip, most Americans don't have that luxury.

And that's where VisaHQ enters the picture.

At its most basic, the process involves:

Filling out an online application
Mailing your supporting documents
Receiving your passport and visa(s) back in the mail

Online Passport Services

Applying for a new passport
Renewing a passport
Adding extra pages
Getting a 2nd passport
Replacing a lost/stolen passport
Name changes

Travel Visas

If you've already got your passport, then you may want to check out the travel visa services.

This is especially important for travelers planning to visit multiple countries during the same trip, or countries which have strict entry requirements.

VisaHQ provides clear, concise information about entry requirements for countries around the world. And they offer this visa support for Americans, as well as Canadians, and UK citizens.

I've already begun using them as my primary resource for countries here in South America.

To see how easy it is, go to the Travel Guides section on Go Backpacking, and look down and to the right for the VisaHQ widget.

Enter your Citizenship and Destination Country, then click "Check Requirements" to see whether a Tourist Visa is required. If no visa is required, you'll see the button turn green. If a travel visa is required, as is the case for me with Bolivia, you'll see the button turn red.

Click the red button, and you'll be transferred to a page outlining the country's requirements (for example, go here to see Bolivia's entry requirements).

In addition to the visa requirements, you'll also see the type of visa offered (single entry, multiple entry), maximum validity, processing time, and cost.

Benefits of Using VisaHQ

Save time and money - let VisaHQ facilitate the processes. For new passports, pay $44.95 + regular government fees, and you'll receive your new passort in 8-14 business days.
Easy access to customer service - contact VisaHQ with questions or concerns via their online chat option, toll-free number, or email address.

To kick off our new partnership, you can save 10% off any passport services by using the code "GoPassportHQ" during the application / order process now through October 22, 2011.

If you have any questions, please leave a comment below and I'll get you the answer(s) as soon as possible.
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*As an affiliate of VisaHQ, Go Backpacking will receive a small commission for any passport or visa services purchased through our site.

Packing List for the Galapagos Islands

Cabin in Estrella del Mar — My cabin in the Estrella del Mar

Lauren, one of my 20-something cruisemates in the Galapagos, mentioned she had trouble finding a packing list online before the trip. While I found quite a few through Google, I wanted to add my own 2-cents.

For backpackers, the packing list for the Galapagos Islands will vary little from what you typically carry. And whether you plan to do land-based trips, or live on a yacht for a week, the items you'll carry are the same.

For those travelers who are not used to packing light, a cruise-based trip is a good time to start. Pictured above is my double cabin on the Estrella del Mar, a typical 1st Class motor yacht.

To the right you can catch a faint glimpse of the storage space for two people. Beyond these small closets, there's little space aside from your bed to place belongings. If you're aboard a Deluxe or Luxury yacht, of course you can expect to have a little more space.

Recommended Clothing

Bathing suit(s) / board shorts
Long (convertible) lightweight pants
Several t-shirts, or tank tops for the ladies
Long sleeve shirt for sun protection, and evenings
Hoody, sweatshirt, or sweater for evenings (it can be especially chilly at night if you're above deck and the boat is moving)
Underwear (I recommend Ex Officio)
Socks (I recommend SmartWool)
Hat, scarf, bandanna, or any other form of sun protection
Windbreaker

I wore almost the same clothes every day of my 8-day cruise.

During the day, it was board shorts and one of two t-shirts. At night, I changed into lightweight cargo pants, a cleaner (nights only) t-shirt, and my lightweight, Go Lite hoody.

Recommended Footwear

Regarding footwear, there are two types of landings you'll make when visiting the islands from a boat: dry landings, and wet landings.

Dry landings are exactly that -- you can expect to step off the panga (dingy) onto dry land, usually in the form of concrete steps, or a dock.

Wet landings occur when you disembark directly on a beach, and have to get your feet wet (no higher than your knees).

Teva-style sandals (easiest all-around option), or
Flip flops
Sneakers, or hiking shoes with a thick sole (for walking on volcanic rocks)

If you're a Teva kinda guy or gal, you can get by on a typical week long cruise with nothing else. Many people chose this approach on my cruise.

For those who prefer a little sun protection for their feet, or support on hikes (which are often no more than an hour or two at a time), bring sneakers or hiking shoes.

Miscellaneous

Daypack for carrying stuff on visits to the various beaches and islands
Full bottle of sunblock (strong SPF)
Sunglasses
Motion sickness pills (don't depend on the boat to have them, although some carry a small supply)
Camera, and related equipment (ex: memory cards, bag, lenses, tripod)
LED headlamp (for walking through an underground lava tube)

Regarding the motion sickness pills, take some even if you don't think you'll need them.

I ended up taking them to help me sleep, not because I was getting nauseous, but because the yacht's engine was so loud, I had trouble falling asleep on my own.

Optional

Personal snorkel equipment
Personal diving equipment
Underwater camera and/or casing
Binoculars
MP3 Player
Kindle, or paperback book(s) for downtime
Water bottle (boats will supply passengers with a single 500ml plastic bottle which can be refilled on board)

If you're particular about your snorkel equipment (either mask or fins), bring your own, otherwise most boats will supply them (sometimes at an extra cost) and they're easy enough to rent from shops on the islands.

All the boats will supply passengers with towels, both for showers on board, as well as for the beach and snorkeling.

If you're primary reason for visiting Ecuador is a trip to the Galapagos, and you'll be in Quito for a night on the way in or out, remember to pack cold weather clothing (jeans, fleece) as the 2,800-meter altitude ensures chilly nights.

An Overview of Thailand's Vegetarian Festival

It was about 150 years ago when a group of Chinese opera performers headed south and eventually found themselves in Thailand.

Upon performing their art on the island of Phuket, an epidemic stream of illness swept across the group.

They eventually came to the realization that they had become sick because they had not worshipped or shown respect to the nine emperor gods from the Chinese Daoist belief.

In order to make up for their blunder, they decided to not only eat vegetarian but to attempt to remain pure for the first nine days of the ninth lunar month.

They vowed to not kill anything, not hurt anyone, refrain from lying or cheating, and eat strictly vegetarian food.

To this day, after the water throwing Songkran festival, the vegetarian festival in Thailand which is known as Tesagan Gin Jay (or just the Jay Festival) is one of Thailand's largest events.

The most concentrated festival takes place in Phuket where there is a high concentration of Chinese, though there are also plenty of other celebrations throughout the country.

In Bangkok, the vegetarian festival can be experienced and observed throughout the city, but the main events take place in Yaowarat (Chinatown).

Not everyone participates in a vow to remain pure for the nine days, but quite a few Thais make the decision to eat vegetarian for the duration of the festival.

Climbing a Knife Blade Step Ladder - Krabi, Thailand

Symbolic Mutilations

A select few people known as Mah Song choose to participate in rituals of self flagellation during the vegetarian festival.

The people who practice these actions must be pure without being married.

They are put into a spirit induced trance at a Chinese temple by conducting a series of procedures and chants.

Eventually the person begins to shake his head from side to side and his eyes roll about almost to an unconscious state.

The Mah Song then perform body mutilating rituals like walking on fire, sitting on chairs full of nails, climbing knife blade ladders (pictured above), piercing their cheeks with giant objects, and slicing their tongues with axes and double bladed saws.

The extremely graphic procedures are dictated by the spirits that are said to possess those who participate.

If you can stomach it, watching some of the gore in person is really something interesting to see.

Again, the largest parade of humans slicing themselves up is in Phuket, but you can also catch a glimpse of it in other cities and some places around Bangkok.

Eating Vegetarian Food

While the majority of people do not participate in the flagellations, many Thai Chinese do choose to refrain from eating meat.

Travelers that happen to be in Thailand during the vegetarian festival will be blessed with an interesting event to observe, and an entire new array of vegetarian Thai food to sample.

Food and restaurants throughout Thailand are marked with yellow flags and banners indicating that they are "safe from meat."

Many street vendors change their entire menu to accommodate to the those who Gin Jay (eat the Jay festival).

Vegetarian Festival Thailand — Fake Meat and Vegetables

You may be thinking, vegetarian food? It sounds pretty lame.

Ok, while I don't think it's as good as its meat filled counterparts, they do come up with some really good things to eat.

Various kinds of fake meat (protein or flour dumplings) are actually molded into the shapes of real meat and colored to make it look authentic.

What started off as a cleansing festival has morphed into an all out vegetarian smorgasbord that includes all kinds of unhealthy snacks and deep fried goodies!

This years festival took place from the 26th of September until the 6th of October 2011.

The vegetarian festival in Thailand takes place annually sometime around September or October.

If you happen to be traveling in Thailand, make sure to check out some of the events and eat some vegetarian food.

Travel Deeper with Tourist 2 Townie

Check out this inspiring video from Argentina by my friend Gareth of Tourist2Townie.com.

We met earlier this year in Medellin, where his enthusiasm for travel and blogging were obvious.

Gareth is a man with a vision, and you'll see that come out in the video. He prefers to see the world at a much slower pace than your average backpacker, thus his motto to "travel deeper."

In return for visiting fewer places per year, he's rewarded with getting to know the countries and cultures he does experience on a more intimate level.

He's going to arrive in Ecuador just as I'm leaving, but I'm hopeful we'll run into each other in South American again sometime soon.

Experiencing Paris, Then and Now

Outside the Pompidou Museum in Paris — My 4 friends and I take a break at the fountain outside the Pompidou Museum.

I've been reflecting a lot lately on how my style and approach to travel has evolved and matured since my first backpacking trip to Europe in 1998.

Last month I turned 35 while traveling here in Ecuador, and I think the decisions I make are a reflection of my age.

Don't get me wrong, I still feel a spritely 21 at heart, but my priorities, travel knowledge, life experience, and packing list have come a long way.

To show you what I mean, let's compare my 1st visit to Paris on the 1st day of my 1st backpacking trip abroad, with the 2nd trip to Paris, 10 years later.

July 1998

I arrived in Paris the day of the 1998 World Cup Final in which France was taking on mighty Brazil.

Summer in Europe wasn't even my idea, it was my friends, and I couldn't let them have all the fun.

We spent the whole first afternoon cluelessly walking around downtown Paris, with our large backpacks, sweating buckets in the Summer heat.

We walked through parks, and past the Pompidou, trying to find a hostel. As you can imagine, it wasn't easy given the country was host to the World Cup.

Eventually, we found our way to a mouse and roach-infested budget hotel near a northern train station.

The group decision had already been made to leave Paris for Amsterdam the following day.

In the evening, we continued walking the streets, looking for a bite to eat. They were empty.

Everyone was watching the game, but since neither I nor my friends cared for soccer at the time, we were simply concerned with filling our stomachs.

I was wearing a totally new outfit, purchased for the trip, including:

Plain blue soccer-style jersey
Khacki North Face cargo pants
Comfortable New Balance cross trainers
Money belt strapped around my waist, below the pants, containing: my passport, credit card, traveler's checks (remember those?) and cash

In my backpack back at the hotel, was a cassette player with 3 mixtapes of my favorite music at the time (punk/alternative), a 35mm camera, 8 rolls of film, and a small spiral notebook and pen for writing my deep thoughts during the trip.

I was blind as a bat, wore glasses, and had a receding hairline I hadn't fully picked up on yet. Picture the enthusiastic (but nerdy) guy in the Eurotrip movie -- that was me!

After France won, everyone poured into the streets to celebrate. Large crowds were walking towards the Arc de Triumph.

Firecrackers were being thrown around indiscriminately, scaring the hell out of me as they went off nearby.

We marched with the Parisian masses before ducking into the metro and heading back to our hotel around 2 AM.

The next day, my and my friends left the most popular city in the world without really seeing a single site.

As our flights home were all out of Paris, the idea was to leave the sightseeing for the end of our trip.

Hanging out with pretty French girls on New Year's Eve

December 2008

Fast forward 10 years, and I'm 13 months into a solo trip around the world.

I'd started in Tahiti, and worked my way West through New Zealand, Australia, Asia, India, Africa, and had spent my 2nd Christmas away from home pouring back Belgian beers and absinthe with new friends in Brussels.

Afterward, I visited my Dutch friend Gela in Holland. We'd met through the Travbuddy.com site for a 10-day trek in the Himalaya earlier in the year.

In Paris, I was greeted at a metro station by Laura, a 20-something French medical student I'd met on the train from Varanasi to Agra, India.

She would be my host for the several nights I spent in Paris during my 2nd visit.

We visited Montmarte, hung out with her friends, ate great food, stopped for a photo-op at the Eiffel Tower, and walked down the Champs d'Elysees, which was beautifully decorated with blue lights at night for the holidays.

In addition to opening her home up to me, the random American she hung out with for a few days in the middle of India, she'd also invited me to ring in the New Year with loads of champagne and cheese at her friend's house party in a Paris suburb.

It was the French Grey's Anatomy.

I was still wearing the same North Face pants (I've since destroyed in favor of jeans), but I'd had LASIK surgery, resulting in 20/20 vision, and embraced the shaved-head look.

I was using the same 30L Gregory backpack I had 10 years earlier, however, the contents had changed.

I listened to music on an 8 GB Creative mp3 player as light as a feather, took thousands of photos with a Canon digital camera, and drafted blog posts on a small (1st generation) ASUS netbook.

The Future

Looking back, I can see how far I've come as a traveler. Looking ahead, I have a good sense of how my personal travel style will continue to develop.

Running a business on the road means privacy, comfort, and Wi-Fi are more important to me than ever before.

Luckily, a whole new slew of Internet-based services are available to help home and property owners rent out apartments to travelers, be they on the move for leisure or business.

I can already imagine my 3rd trip to the world's most romantic city. I'd rent one of the many Paris apartments for the holidays.

Maybe I'd reconnect with Laura, or other Parisians I've met in the meantime.

And I'd finally make it a point to visit some outstanding sites of interest, like Jim Morrison's grave and the Catacombs, while spending the rest of my time in restaurants and bars enjoying the rich foods and wines France is known for.

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