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Pujol Restaurant Review: The Best Mexican Food on the Planet

Round slices of avocado sandwich a seed-covered mole in the middle
Appetizers: Round slices of avocado sandwich a chia seed-covered mole in the middle

"It's subjective," Chef Enrique Olvera said, shrugging off my mention of Pujol's recent ranking as the 17th best restaurant in the world.

That may be true, but after a stunning display of service and 11 delicious courses showing off Mexican cuisine, it was hard for me to imagine a more exceptional restaurant experience.

A week earlier, while still in Puerto Vallarta, I'd first learned of Pujol's reputation and made a 2 PM lunch reservation for my sole Saturday in the capital.

I spent the morning walking Mexico City's historic center and then took a $10 taxi west to the Polanco neighborhood.

The restaurant's exterior was unpretentious and unassuming. A doorman greeted me on the sidewalk.

I commented about arriving a few minutes early, but he didn't hesitate to walk me inside, where several tables were already being serviced.

Crispy beef empanada
Appetizers: Crispy beef empanada

The restaurant was small, just 13 tables, which was a number chosen for its luck.

As it happens, 13 was the lucky number associated with my college, and thus became my lucky number as well.

The intimate atmosphere is a departure from the much larger Astrid & Gaston in Lima, the only other restaurant I've been to from the list of the world's 50 best restaurants.

I sat down at a table for two, offering me a full view of the restaurant.

The wait staff worked harmoniously together throughout the two-hour lunch, and most (if not all) were bilingual.

Appetizers: This baby corn on a skewer was presented in a large gourd, which was brought to the table
Appetizers: This baby corn on a skewer was presented in a large gourd, which was brought to the table

The drink and wine menu was extensive, but I kept it simple, ordering a mojito. It was familiar, and I knew they'd make me a good one.

In retrospect, I wish I'd ordered a signature cocktail, something a little more unique to the experience.

I'd already scoped out the tasting menu online and didn't hesitate to order it at 890 pesos ($69).

The mojito arrived, followed by quelites aromatica, an aromatic tea that tasted more like soup broth.

Filled with turnip and cabbage, this bite-sized appetizer melted in my mouth
Appetizers: Filled with turnip and cabbage, this bite-sized appetizer melted in my mouth

I was also served a variety of bite-sized appetizers.

I quickly realized my attempt to document the detailed descriptions of every dish would only serve to slow everyone down.

Service was so efficient. I barely had time to type a few words into my iPhone before each new dish arrived.

At this point in my Pujol restaurant review, I'm going to let the photos do the talking.

See also: Best Restaurants in Latin America

Course #3: Roasted beef tartar with alfalfa and serrano chile, topped with a tortilla (which I broke before taking the picture)
Course #2: Roasted beef tartar with alfalfa and serrano chile oil, topped with a tortilla (which I broke before taking the picture)
Red and green salsas are brought to the table, both of which I forget to use
Red and green salsas are brought to the table, both of which I forget to use
Course #3: Fish ceviche taco with crispy fish skin and beans
Course #3: Fish ceviche taco with crispy fish skin and beans
Course #5: Purslane noodles, grilled onions, peppermint, and chile-covered balls of sheep cheese
Course #4: Purslane noodles, grilled onions, peppermint, and chile-covered balls of sheep cheese
Course #5: Organic chicken, red onion, and epazote (a Mexican herb also known as wormseed)
Course #5: Organic chicken, red onion, and epazote (a Mexican herb also known as wormseed)
Course #6: Pork confit, a rich mole, drop of sweet tamarind sauce, and white cabbage
Course #6: Pork confit, a rich mole, drop of sweet tamarind sauce, and white cabbage. This was my favorite dish of the lunch!
Course #7: Mole Madre. At first I thought it was a palm-sized circle of mole, but there's a thin taco under there, which you eat as well.
Course #7: Mole Madre. At first, I thought it was a palm-sized circle of mole, but there's a thin taco under there, which you eat as well. It had a strong, slightly spicy flavor.
Course #8: Dominican banana, macadamia zest, chamomile flower, cocoa, and sour cream
Course #8: Dominican banana, macadamia zest, chamomile flower, cocoa, and sour cream
Course #9: Guayaba sorbet, mezcal and chile salt
Course #9: Guayaba sorbet, mezcal and chile salt
Course #10: Thyme glazed biscuit, lemon gelatin, ice cream, cookie soup, and white chocolate
Course #10: Thyme glazed biscuit, lemon gelatin, ice cream, cookie soup, and white chocolate
Course 11: Chocolate mousse with mezcal and orange, served warm. It was divine!
Course #11: Chocolate mousse with mezcal and orange, served warm. It was divine!
A few of Pujol's 13 tables
A few of Pujol's 13 tables

The total bill for my lunch came to $106, including tax and tip. A real steal for a restaurant regarded as the best in Mexico, and one of the best in Latin America.

To ensure seating, book ahead by phone or through their website. The dress is casual, especially during lunch. I wore my usual jeans and a t-shirt.

Restaurante Pujol

Address: Francisco Petrarca 254, Polanco, Mexico City

Tel: +52 (55) 5545 - 4111

Hours: Monday to Saturday 2 PM - 4 PM, 6:30 PM - 11:30 PM. Closed Sundays.

Walking Tour of Mexico City's Historic Center

Diego Rivera's "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park"
Diego Rivera's "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park"

My second attempt at exploring Mexico City's Historic Center was much more fruitful than the first.

Well-rested and ready for another big day in the capital, I worked my way from east to west across the Centro Historico, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Table of Contents

  • 1. Museo Mural Diego Rivera
  • 2. Parque Alameda
  • 3. Palacio de Bellas Artes
  • 4. Torre Latinoamericana
  • 5. Catedral Metropolitina
  • 6. Templo Mayor and Museum
  • 7. Palacio Virreinal

1. Museo Mural Diego Rivera

Most of the museums in the historic center open at 10 AM, and I began small with the Museo Mural Diego Rivera, located on Plaza Solaridad, near Alameda Park.

The main draw is Diego Rivera's mural entitled "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park" which features an eclectic cast of characters including the artist himself, his wife and fellow artist Frida Kahlo, and a depiction of death itself (the skeleton wearing a dress in the middle).

Maps describing all of the characters in both English and Spanish can be found at the opposite end of the room. 

It's a fun exercise going through them all to decode what you're seeing.

Alameda Park
Alameda Park

2. Parque Alameda

Leaving the Diego Rivera museum, I walked east through Alameda Park.

Given how overwhelmingly large Mexico City can feel, it's a pleasant surprise to find an oasis of green in the middle of all the action.

There are plenty of water fountains and park benches, and few vendors, though a market is set up on weekends.

Palacio de Bellas Artes
Palacio de Bellas Artes

3. Palacio de Bellas Artes

At the east end of the park is Palacio de Bellas Artes (The Palace of Fine Arts). The grand building houses a theater where the Mexican ballet performs.

The second and third floors feature more Diego Rivera murals, as well as works by other artists. Plus, there's additional gallery space for smaller installations.

Even if you choose to forgo paying the museum entrance to see the murals, step inside and take a gander at the impressive lobby.

The modern lines of Torre Latinoamericana contrast sharply with a nearby church
The juxtaposition of new and old

4. Torre Latinoamericana

Visible from the Palacio de Bellas Artes is the 182-meter tall Torre Latinoamericana, one of Latin America's iconic skyscrapers.

For those visitors who want a view from the top, admission is 60 pesos, or about $4.65. The lookout is open 365 days a year.

The Cathedral Metropolitana is the largest church in the Americas
The Cathedral Metropolitana is the largest church in the Americas

5. Catedral Metropolitina

I continued east, walking seven blocks along the pedestrian-only Avenida Francisco I. Madero.

This passageway is filled with shops, restaurants, and old churches.

At the eastern end, it spills out into the Zócalo, or main plaza, which is the epicenter of the historic district.

Here, one's eyes are immediately drawn to Catedral Metropolitana, the largest church in North and South America. 

Inside, you'll find a monumental golden altarpiece close to the front door for what I believe to be small services.

During both my visits, I was not allowed to walk the length of the nave, and to my knowledge, it's not possible to climb the spires.

The Zócalo is also ground zero for tourism in Mexico City.

North Americans, especially, take advantage of cheap holiday packages. 

Bringing together the value of backpacking with the comfort of an organized holiday, these trips can provide a great introduction to those who are new to travel abroad.

The Cathedral as seen from across Templo Mayor
The Cathedral as seen from across Templo Mayor

6. Templo Mayor and Museum

Adjacent the Cathedral is Templo Mayor, an important temple belonging to the ancient Aztecs.

The earliest construction dates back to the 14th century, and it was later destroyed by the Spanish in 1521.

Its discovery and full-scale excavation did not occur until the late 20th century.

Not knowing of Templo Mayor before my walking tour, it was a fascinating experience to stumble upon an archaeological site of this significance in the city center.

A modern museum housing related artifacts was built on site, and admission is included with the 57-peso ($4.40) entrance to Templo Mayor.

Austere facade of Mexico's National Palace
Austere facade of Mexico's National Palace

7. Palacio Virreinal

Exiting Templo Mayor, I walked over to the National Palace, across the street, and occupying the eastern side of the Zócalo.

The highlight of the palace visit is a viewing of Diego Rivera's "The Epic of the Mexican People" depicting Mexico's history.

There was an event going on when I stopped by, and thus I lost my last opportunity to visit before leaving the city.

Next time, Palacio Virreinal will be tops on my "to do" list.

I'd allotted the first half of my day to see the city center, and after three to four hours, I'd seen a lot.

I hailed a taxi and headed for my 2 PM lunch at Pujol.

_______

UNESCO

The Historic City Center of Mexico City became a World Heritage Site in 1988.

Click here for the full list of UNESCO sites Dave has visited during his travels.

The Time I was Ripped Off By a Taxi in Mexico City

Cathedral in Mexico City
Cathedral in Mexico City

[O]n my first full day in Mexico City, I challenged myself to visit three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in a single day.

I began at the Central Campus of UNAM, and followed it up with a guided tour of Casa Luis Barragan.

At dusk, I completed the trifecta with a visit to Mexico City's Historic Center, which was both hurried and overwhelming.

The heat, air pollution, crowds, and grandeur of the neighborhood was enough to manage in itself, let alone trying to appreciate the points of interest.

I took a few pictures of the Cathedral, and hopped in a cab for the short ride back to my nearby hostel, thus saving me a twenty-minute walk.

As the drive began, I realized the meter was off, so I asked the driver about it.

He shrugged me off, saying it wasn't needed, which instantly set off alarm bells that this guy was positioning himself to overcharge me.

I tried to regain some control, asking for an estimate of the fare, but he shrugged me off again.

Too tired, or perhaps too complacent to push harder, I allowed the ride to come to its conclusion at my hostel, where he finally declared a value, 100 pesos ($7.80).

I responded angrily, knowing this was well above the actual rate.

He refused to budge.

In the heat of the moment, I lacked the confidence to argue any further, and handed him a 100-peso note (conveniently, he asked for a value that can be paid with a single bill), and entered the hostel.

Flustered from the exchange, I peppered the young receptionist with questions about the incident, to which she responded the ride should've been about 35 pesos ($2.75), or three times less than what I was asked to pay.

Expletives spewed out of my mouth as I trudged upstairs to my empty dorm room, where I continued to fume for another hour at the gall of the driver.

I opened up Go Backpacking's Facebook page and let off a rant involving cheating taxi drivers, and karma, which generated quite a few responses, including one girl telling me to "get over it" because it's just a few dollars.

She was right, of course, but it wasn't the money that bothered me, it was the driver's ability to lie to my face, and ultimately rip me off without hesitation.

I've taken hundreds of (metered) taxis in Medellin without a problem, and dozens more in Lima (unmetered) without being so blatantly overcharged.

The following day, I would take several, longer taxis covering large distances, and they barely tipped over the 100-peso mark, which hit home how obvious it was that the driver the day before had ripped me off.

But by then, I'd truly gotten over it.

What would you have done? Paid the asking price knowing it's too much? Given less, and left the car without apology?

Leave your thoughts in the Comments section below.

Snorkeling with Whale Sharks in Cancun

"Go now," the guide shouts as a large black dorsal fin glides past our boat, bobbing in the open sea.

I hit the water feet first, followed quickly by the rest of my body. My head dips below the water's surface from the momentum, and a life jacket ensures I immediately bounce back up.

Adjusting my snorkel mask, I face down just in time to see the white-speckled body of a whale shark, the world's largest fish, pass before my eyes.

One of our group's two boats
One of our group's two boats departing the marina

Remembering the guide's instructions, I begin swimming next to it, against the current, before it passes effortlessly into the distance.

My first attempt at snorkeling beside these graceful creatures on my whale shark adventure was over in minutes.

The guide in the water signals me to return to the boat and wait for my next turn.

Our boat has nine passengers and two guides. Each guide takes turns snorkeling in the water with two customers at a time.

The small ratio of guides to passengers eased my concerns about snorkeling in the open sea, forty-five minutes to an hour off the coast of Cancun.

Whale sharks can be spotted in the open sea thanks to their black fins
Whale sharks can be spotted in the open sea thanks to their black fins

It'd been a bumpy ride out to sea, with the boat's hull smacking up and down against the five to six-foot waves.

I took some comfort in the assurance that the seas were calmer on this day than earlier in the week, but maybe the guides tell everyone this to help ease their anxieties.

Whale shark season in Cancun runs from mid-May through September, with the whales passing by Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula in their migratory search for food.

Despite their ominous name, teeth, and size (up to 40 feet in length, weighing an average of 20 tons), whale sharks feed on mostly plankton and small fish.

They open their giant mouths, which span the width of their heads, and filter the nutrients out of the water. They have poor eyesight, as is the case with most sharks.

Earlier, we'd been instructed to stay put if we saw a whale shark coming directly toward us in the water because they'd sense us (not see us) and either turn or dive.

A whale shark skims the surface as it feeds
A whale shark skims the surface as it feeds

To my surprise, the whale sharks feed near the water's surface, making snorkeling with them so easy.

I'd anticipated we'd be looking down on them, but that wasn't the case. We could see them from the boat, but we also had to turn our heads upward in the water to see them cruising around.

I could tell that most of the other passengers on my boat were divers. And it wasn't just the underwater cameras and GoPros strapped to people's heads.

Those who didn't bring their wetsuits and snorkel gear rented wetsuits from the tour company at the marina before we left.

Wearing a wetsuit ensures sun protection and allows you to do your snorkeling without a life vest (as the suits provide buoyancy).

I skipped the wetsuit to save money ($12) but had a bad sunburn by the end of the day.

As I waited my turn, seasickness crept into my conscience. I wasn't the only one, either. A German diver on our boat also began feeling ill.

Another woman on board was kind enough to offer me a motion sickness tablet, which I readily consumed, and a bottle of water (included on the tour).

Underwater view of a whale shark, similar to what I saw while snorkeling (photo: Marcel Ekkel)
Underwater view of a whale shark, similar to what I saw while snorkeling (photo: Marcel Ekkel)

The guide recommended I get back in the water because I'd feel better, but I resisted initially and allowed others to go in my place.

But time was running out, and I couldn't ignore how excited the others were every time they exited the water after snorkeling with the whale sharks.

I took a deep breath and proclaimed across the boat, "One last time!"

Familiar with the process now, I readied myself on the side of the boat and waited for the guide's signal.

My second time in the water, I got a clearer view of the massive whale shark swimming before me. It was so beautiful; I forgot to swim.

I was content to tread water and watch it pass before my eyes as if in a trance. The sunlight reflected off the white dots across its body.

The guide snapped me out of the moment with instructions to swim, but it was too late. The whale shark had gotten too far ahead of me, and because they swim against the current, it's not easy to catch up.

Later, the guide laughed at my expense, joking that I was supposed to SWIM with them.

The crystal clear waters of Playa Norte on Isla Mujeres
The crystal clear waters of Playa Norte on Isla Mujeres

My nausea began to decrease once the boat was moving again. Our destination was Playa Norte, off the northern coast of Isla Mujeres, where we'd stop for lunch.

A bumpy 45-minute ride later, we eased our way into the gorgeous, shallow waters off the palm tree-lined Playa Norte.

The stunning scenery was a surprise, the calm waters a welcome respite from the open sea waves.

I sprayed on a new layer of sunscreen and gently hopped off the boat, my feet sinking into the soft white sand. Boats from other companies were anchored around us, but the beach was empty.

Wading through the warm waters, I imagined the scene during Christmas break in December or Spring Break in March; I preferred to have the beach to myself.

Related: Riviera Maya's Best Beaches

Our group goes for a swim, before returning to the boat for a ceviche lunch
Our group goes for a swim before returning to the boat for a ceviche lunch.

Our crew began preparing fresh shrimp ceviche for lunch on board the boat. It was tangy and delicious, the perfect end to our whale shark adventure in Cancun.

Tips to Enjoy Your Whale Shark Snorkeling Adventure

Get Your Guide's whale shark tour in Cancun offers hotel pick-up from Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum. The further you are from Cancun, the earlier you need to wake up, and the later you return.

Bring sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat, and a waterproof camera. I regretted not buying a disposable camera for $20, as the water is clear, and you're close enough to the whale sharks to get decent photos.

Rent a wetsuit for further sun protection, don't depend on the life jacket, as it doesn't provide full coverage.

Take motion sickness pills even if you don't usually get motion sick. You don't want nausea to ruin your experience.

Plenty of bottled water and lunch are included, but bringing extra water and snacks is not a bad idea. It's better to eat something than depart on an empty stomach.

________

I was provided with a complimentary tour in partnership with GetYourGuide.

Jalan Alor - Marmite Frog and Crab in Kuala Lumpur

Jalan Alor at night
Jalan Alor at night

Bukit Bintang is one of the main shopping and trendy districts of Kuala Lumpur.

With a wide selection of hotels, endless shopping opportunities, and markets, the area attracts many locals and quite a few tourists as well.

Parallel to Jalan Bukit Bintang, the street that houses many fancy shopping malls and designers boutiques, is Jalan Alor.

This street, which is almost a world of difference from the next street over, is one of the most famous streets in the city for Chinese Malaysian food.

During the day the street can be a little quiet, and while even though some of the restaurants are open, there's not much outside seating.

However, at night is when the street comes alive and round tables are wheeled onto the road accompanied by those all familiar plastic chairs.

Both sit down restaurants and small street stalls line the road.

Most of the culinary options are of the Chinese Malaysian variety; you'll find Chinese food, satays, fresh durian, and those famous Jalan Alor chicken wings.

Famous chicken wings
Famous chicken wings

The last time I went to Kuala Lumpur, I consulted my Facebook friends on where to eat, and I was recommended to eat at Wong Ah Wah restaurant along Jalan Alor.

While some of the restaurants along Jalan Alor have seemingly started to cater more towards Western tourists, Wong Ah Wah is still a famous local restaurant.

It is well known that Wong Ah Wah is where many Malaysian chefs that cook at nearby luxury hotels come to eat, drink, and relax after their night shifts - so it's that kind of a restaurant - good comforting food with a simple relaxing environment.

We started our meal with the chicken wings, a dish no one who eats there misses; their chicken wings are famous!

There's an entire specialized chicken wing roaster outside the restaurant and you can smell the wings along the entire street.

They were really good, sort of a sweet honey soy sauce barbecue glaze on them. I do wish the chicken skin had been a little crispier though.

Wong Ah Wah menu
Wong Ah Wah menu

Seeing Marmite frog on the menu, I just couldn't resist the temptation to sample something so unique.

At that time I didn't know Marmite was such a popular ingredient used in sauces at Chinese Malaysian restaurants, but I soon found it elsewhere as well.

Marmite frog
Marmite frog

This was the real deal, a superb dish that was salty, sweet, and the frog legs were succulent and juicy.

I had had Marmite a number of times on bread, but somehow the sauce, which was also mixed with soy sauce and other ingredients, created the perfect salty glaze for the legs.

Black pepper crab
Black pepper crab

While the Marmite frog was a wonderful and unique dish, nothing compared to the crab.

This beauty was cooked and stir fried in a sweet chili soy sauce along with a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper.

The claws were packed with sweet buttery flesh and the preparation was outstanding.

When you're in Kuala Lumpur be sure to stop at Jalan Alor and eat a delicious meal at Wong Ah Wah.

Also, just a few kilometers down the road is another legendary food street known as Pudu Wai Sek Kai. On both streets you're sure to find something tasty!

Architect Luis Barragán's House and Studio

Entrance to Casa Luis Barragan
Entrance to Casa Luis Barragan

I left the UNAM campus for my second UNESCO site of the day, Casa Luis Barragán.

To make things easy, I took a cab to Barranca del Muerto station on Line 7 and then took the metro up to Constituyentes.

From there, it's a 5-minute walk to the Barragán House and Studio.

I arrived just as the house was closing for lunch. A guided tour is required, and the next one in English would be at 3 PM.

To kill time, I walked to another house he designed as a private residence, but the woman living there charges 200 pesos ($16) for a short tour, which is the same cost as the architect's own house.

By the time I had a bite to eat and walked back, it was almost 3 PM.

I paid the 200 peso admission but skipped paying for the rights to take photos of the interior, which was more than double the cost (500 pesos, $40).

The very private rooftop terrace, where Luis Barragan liked to entertain guests
The very private rooftop terrace, where Luis Barragan liked to entertain guests

I always enjoy visiting the former homes of artists like Barragán, Frida Kahlo, or Chile's Pablo Neruda, because you gain greater insight into what it would've been like for them to live and work there.

It's a chance to see the decor and art they chose to surround themselves with (though all the originals from Barragán's house are in storage) on a daily basis.

In the case of an architect, you can learn a lot about their use of natural light, space, color, and perspective.

Barragán was born in Guadalajara in 1902.

He began designing this house in Mexico City for someone else in 1948 but then decided to keep it for himself.

...the House and Studio of architect Luis Barragán in the suburbs of Mexico City represents an outstanding example of the architect's creative work in the post-Second World War period.

The concrete building, totalling 1,161 m2, consists of a ground floor and two upper storeys, as well as a small private garden.

Barragán's work integrated modern and traditional artistic and vernacular currents and elements into a new synthesis, which has been greatly influential, especially in the contemporary design of gardens, plazas and landscapes. -- UNESCO

He never married but was fond of entertaining. Interestingly, as our guide pointed out, the guest room reserved for his female friends was the only room without religious art.

Barragán, it turns out, was a real playboy. And he lived in the same house for 40 years, until he died in 1988.

At the time, the house was valued at 10 million dollars, and bought by a foundation dedicated to preserving it as a museum highlighting his life and contributions as an architect.

See also: Mexico City's Best Restaurants

A Barragan-designed home 10 minutes away from his residence
A Barragan-designed home a 10 minute walk away from his residence

_______

UNESCO

Luis Barragan's House and Studio became a World Heritage Site in 2004.

Click here for the full list of UNESCO sites Dave has visited during his travels.

Central Campus at Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM)

Sculpture outside the Contemporary Art Museum
Sculpture outside the Contemporary Art Museum

A few days before my Ancient Civilizations tour with G Adventures was set to begin, I arrived in Mexico City from Guadalajara by plane.

To see and do as much as possible, I prioritized my activities, choosing to see a few off-the-beaten-track sites before the historic city center.

After a good night's sleep in a hostel dorm I had to myself, I began my first day with a subway ride to the Central University City Campus of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM).

I know, it's a mouthful.

Why spend my first morning in Mexico City visiting a university campus?

Here's how UNESCO summarizes the importance of the architecture at UNAM:

The ensemble of buildings, sports facilities and open spaces of the Central University City Campus of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM), was built from 1949 to 1952 by more than 60 architects, engineers and artists who were involved in the project.

As a result, the campus constitutes a unique example of 20th-century modernism integrating urbanism, architecture, engineering, landscape design and fine arts with references to local traditions, especially to Mexico's pre-Hispanic past.

The ensemble embodies social and cultural values of universal significance and is one of the most significant icons of modernity in Latin America.

Looking at the campus on Google Maps, I was intimidated. It looked like a city within a city. I decided to figure it out once I got there.

A colorful, hanging sculpture reflects sunlight in the main hall of the Contemporary Art Museum
A colorful, hanging sculpture reflects sunlight in the main hall of the Contemporary Art Museum.

I took Line 3 of the metro heading south to the aptly named Universidad station at the southeast end of campus.

Alternatively, the northeast area of campus is accessible from the Copilco station.

Still unsure of what the heck I was doing, I exited the station along with crowds of students and walked through a small maze of Mexican stands selling food and drinks.

It felt like unchartered territory, if only because I was still utterly clueless about where I was going.

I saw a bus stop and a map with concentric rings of bus routes.

It didn't look very easy. I decided to walk, but I didn't make it far before remembering this wasn't like my small college campus in New York.

I hailed a taxi and asked him to take me to the Museo Universitario Arte Contemporaneo (Contemporary Art Museum), or MUAC for short. It was as good a starting point as any.

He dropped me off in front of a large, near-empty plaza, with the museum to my left. The sun was already bearing down, and it was only mid-morning.

I bought a ticket for $3.30 but found the architecture of the building more fascinating than the art within it.

The basement-level museum restaurant
The basement-level museum restaurant

Before leaving, my eyes drew me down to the basement level, where the museum restaurant, Nube Siete, is located.

I ate a quick brunch of huevos rancheros over a glass floor covering volcanic rocks.

In the separate smoking section, the rocks were exposed and overflowing into the space.

Sophisticated and unique setting aside, the restaurant was also reasonably priced, and I'd recommend visitors grab at least a coffee.

Campus building near the Contemporary Art Museum
Campus building near the Contemporary Art Museum

After brunch, I poked around the campus buildings in the immediate vicinity before hopping on one of the free shuttle buses to the sculpture park around the corner.

It was a much shorter distance than I expected, and I could've walked in five to ten minutes, but at least I learned the campus buses were free for everyone.

Sculpture park
Situated within an ecological reserve on campus, the sculpture park features numerous installations. Here, large concrete blocks form a ring around a circle of volcanic rock.

The sculpture park is located within an ecological reserve. Remember, this is all still well within the university's campus.

The road bisects the park. The direction I went first led me to a monumental sculpture installation.

Large concrete blocks were situated around an open circle of exposed volcanic rock.

Of course, I did what anyone would do upon seeing such a sight. I ran up one of the blocks to get a better view.

Look for the students sitting on top of the blocks in the photo above to get a sense of scale.

A mask-shaped sculpture acts as a portal through which people can pass
A mask-shaped sculpture acts as a portal through which people can pass

Going up was easy, but looking back down at the ground from what appeared to be a 45-degree angle was another story.

I hurried down the top section like a crab and then stood up and hit the ground running.

On the other side of the road were smaller sculptures and a bunch of academic buildings.

The facades of Biblioteca Central (Central Library) are mosacis of thousands of colored tiles.
The facades of Biblioteca Central (Central Library) are mosaics of thousands of colored tiles.

I hailed another taxi north to the Biblioteca Central (Central Library) for my third and final stop.

With over 400,000 books, it's one of the largest libraries in the country. It's also the most popular building for curious tourists.

Detail of the library's front facade
Detail of the library's front facade

One look at the scale of the mosaics designed by Juan O'Gorman adorning all four sides, and it's easy to see why.

Each wall depicts a different period in Mexican history.

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UNESCO

The Central University City Campus of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) became a World Heritage Site in 2007.

Click here for the complete list of UNESCO sites Dave has visited during his travels.

Dal Bhat: What You'll Be Eating in Nepal

Sitting down for dal bhat in Nepal
Sitting down for dal bhat in Nepal

[W]hen you're in Nepal, it's likely that you'll be eating dal bhat each and every day, so it's a great thing that dal baht makes a wonderful well-rounded meal.

What is Dal Bhat?

Dal, which is similar to the Indian staple, is normally a lentil soup.

In Nepal it's often thin, more of a soupy consistency than a curry. Bhat refers to a type of starch, which normally means rice, but can mean another form of starch if no rice happens to be available.

Together the combination of dal and bhat forms the most basic and widely eaten staple meal in Nepal. Locals will often eat two or even three meals of dal bhat per day.

Items like fried bread are sometimes eaten for a Nepali breakfast, but later on in the day, dal bhat is most common.

A delicious lunch
A delicious lunch

Though just rice and lentil soup is the most basic form, most of the time you'll also be served whatever vegetable is on hand, a dish referred to as tarkari.

Sometimes I was served fresh stir fried green vegetables, other times it was potatoes and onions, or cauliflower curry.

It's really up to the vendor and the season what kind of vegetable is served.

You don't really request a certain vegetable, but just ask for tarkari and see what shows up on your plate - and luckily whatever it is, it will be good.

Achar sauce, a simple freshly ground chili sauce, is also a standardly served item along with any dal bhat meal.

I had many different varieties while eating in Nepal, so I think it's just up to the particular vendor to decide which version and what ingredients to use.

Some of the chili paste sauces were tomato based and red in color while others seemed to be full of herbs and green. All of them added extra wonderful flavor to my rice and vegetables.

Along with the achar, a few raw vegetables like tomatoes, red onions, and cucumber slices are commonly served as a garnish.

Dal bhat with fried chicken on the side
Dal bhat with fried chicken on the side

If you're in need of extra protein, you can normally order a side dish of meat curry or fried chicken.

I especially enjoyed a vegetarian dal bhat accompanied by a plate of a dish known as chilly chicken - deep fried pieces of chicken coated in marvelous tangy sauce and garnished with onions and herbs.

A dal bhat meal in Nepal is often served on a heavy metal plate, and the soup is placed in a metal cup.

I was surprised that even at some real budget street restaurants, I was still served this on top of a nice, high quality plate. I loved the presentation.

Traditionally, meals are eaten with your fingers, but if you ask for a spoon and fork, they'll probably find one for you.

I, however, think that eating dal baht with your fingers adds to the delicious experience. You can easily mix and match bits of food with your fingers before taking a perfect bite.

Step into many hole in the wall restaurants in Nepal and you'll be greeted by smiling faces and have an opportunity to ask for a plate of dal bhat. The vendor will be happy to serve you and reward you with a piping hot and satisfying meal.

Yet another great thing about eating dal bhat is that the vendor will normally serve you as many helpings of extra rice and vegetarian dishes as you can handle.

In Nepal you'll eat plenty of dal bhat, so it's a good thing it's such a delicious and nutritious staple meal!

Tequila Tour: Agave Landscape and the Industrial Facilities of Tequila

Tres Mujeres organic tequila distillery
Tres Mujeres organic tequila distillery

[I] dedicated my one full day in Guadalajara to a tequila tour through the agave landscape of Jalisco, which is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

I'd already seen fields of blue agave plants on the bus ride from Puerto Vallarta, but it was worth the time to learn more about the process of how agave is turned into tequila.

I don't like tequila, at all, but I wanted to seize this unique opportunity.

The small tour group was a mix of Mexicans and foreigners. Our first stop was Tres Mujeres, an organic distillery one hour west of Guadalajara.

There, we received a full tour and tasting, which was the highlight of the day.

Taking turns chopping off the leaves of the blue agave plant with a traditional tool
Taking turns chopping off the leaves of the blue agave plant with a traditional tool

New agave is planted every May, before the start of the rainy season. It then takes seven to eight years before the plants are mature enough to be harvested.

Unlike planting the new agave, the harvesting can be done at any time of year.

Workers are paid a mere 70 pesos ($5.50) per ton (2,000 lbs) of agave harvested. The younger men can harvest up to five tons per day, which is the maximum allowed, thus earning 350 pesos ($28) for their work.

The older man who demonstrated the proper technique for cutting off the leaves of the "pineapple," or core of the plant for us, had been working the agave fields for decades.

Due to age, he was now working at a slower pace, and was only able to harvest about three tons per day, which still sounds incredible given the heat.

If I heard correctly, a single pineapple can weigh upwards of 200 pounds.

Every 15 pounds of agave produces one liter of tequila.

The "pineapples" are placed in the ovens for 2-3 days
The "pineapples" are placed in the ovens for two days

Once harvested, the pineapples are placed in ovens for up to two days, and then given an extra day to cool.

At Tres Mujeres, they don't use any machinery. All of the work is done by hand.

From here, the distillation process is reminiscent of wineries.

The pineapples are squeezed of their juices, which then goes into fermentation tanks for four to nine days. They rely on the natural, organic process of sugar converting to alcohol.

A second distillation occurs to separate and remove poisonous methanol, while leftover fiber from the plants is used for fertilizer, or repurposed.

Tequila is typically 34% to 50% alcohol. The Tres Mujeres brands are 38%. They are especially popular with the Russians and Japanese, as both their countries import tequila from the distillery.

We also saw the cellar, where French oak barrels are used to rest the tequila for between three to six years. The barrels are replaced every 10 years.

Organic tequilas by Tres Mujeres
Organic tequilas by Tres Mujeres

Of course it wouldn't be a proper tour without a tasting, and Tres Mujeres was very generous in this respect. Everyone was poured a shot of four different tequilas, all 100% agave.

Before we began, I learned you lick the salt first to make you salivate, which is supposed to make the tequila taste better.

I sampled the first two, before realizing organic tequila tastes as bad to me as the regular stuff.

I skipped the third nicest (green bottle), and tried one last time with their higher end tequila (red bottle).

Nope, even with the salt and lime, I squinted as the liquor hit my taste buds.

Church in the pueblo of Tequila
Church of Tequila

We left Tres Mujeres for the pueblo of Tequila.

Yes, there's actually a historic little town called Tequila, which bears the UNESCO emblem in a small plaza adjacent the church.

From the UNESCO website:

"The 34,658 ha site, between the foothills of the Tequila Volcano and the deep valley of the Rio Grande River, is part of an expansive landscape of blue agave, shaped by the culture of the plant used since the 16th century to produce tequila spirit and for at least 2,000 years to make fermented drinks and cloth.

Within the landscape are working distilleries reflecting the growth in the international consumption of tequila in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Today, the agave culture is seen as part of national identity. The area encloses a living, working landscape of blue agave fields and the urban settlements of Tequila, Arenal, and Amatitan with large distilleries where the agave 'pineapple' is fermented and distilled.

The property is also a testimony to the Teuchitlan cultures which shaped the Tequila area from AD 200-900, notably through the creation of terraces for agriculture, housing, temples, ceremonial mounds and ball courts."

Jose Cuervo distillery
Jose Cuervo distillery

Tequila is also the location of La Rojeña distillery, the oldest factory in Mexico (at least according to them).

It is here in 1795 that Jose Antonio Cuervo became the world's first producer of tequila.

Today, Jose Cuervo is the largest tequila brand in the world, accounting for 19% of the global market.

Jose Cuervo
Jose Cuervo

Even if you're like me, and not a fan of tequila, it's worth wandering through the public areas of the distillery as the architecture and courtyards are wonderful.

There's also a bar, of course, which was offering two margaritas for 50 pesos ($4). I doubt you'll find a better made margarita anywhere else in the world.

Pueblo fans would do well to spend a night in Tequila, as it's too hot to truly enjoy during the day, and our tour only allowed us an hour to explore.

Tequila is one of several "magic" pueblos throughout Mexico. This appears to be a tourism campaign to highlight the country's prettiest pueblos.

It's a strategy which would serve Colombia well.

Tequila Volcano, and fields of blue agave
Tequila Volcano, and fields of blue agave

The tour finished with lunch at a typical restaurant, Mariscos El Mar II, overlooking Tequila Volcano and the surrounding plantations of blue agave.

The cost of lunch was not included in the tour, but the prices were average.

Whether or not you like the taste of tequila, I recommend taking a day to do a tequila tour when passing through Guadalajara.

Salud!

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UNESCO

The Agave Landscape and Ancient Industrial Facilities of Tequila became a World Heritage Site in 2006.

Click here for the full list of UNESCO sites Dave has visited during his travels.

Hospicio Cabañas, and the Murals of José Clemente Orozco

Chapel at Hospicio Cabañas
Chapel at Hospicio Cabañas

[L]ocated in Guadalajara's historic city center, a short 15-minute walk from the Cathedral, is Hospicio Cabañas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Hospicio Cabañas was built at the beginning of the 19th century to provide care and shelter for the disadvantaged - orphans, old people, the handicapped and chronic invalids.

This remarkable complex, which incorporates several unusual features designed specifically to meet the needs of its occupants, was unique for its time. It is also notable for the harmonious relationship between the open and built spaces, the simplicity of its design, and its size.

In the early 20th century, the chapel was decorated with a superb series of murals, now considered some of the masterpieces of Mexican art. They are the work of José Clemente Orozco, one of the greatest Mexican muralists of the period. -- UNESCO

As part of my new effort to visit more World Heritage Sites, I stopped into Hospicio Cabañas on my last day in Guadalajara.

Mural by José Clemente Orozco in the Chapel's dome
The Chapel's dome features the "Man on Fire" mural by José Clemente Orozco

Admission is 70 pesos ($5.50), plus an additional 30 pesos ($2.40) if you want to take photos.

The complex is an immense network of interconnected buildings, spaced apart by 23 courtyards.

The main attraction is the chapel decorated with murals by José Clemente Orozco.

According to UNESCO, "Orozco's murals in the chapel represent in part the most symbolic and characteristic elements of the indigenous culture of Mexico (gods, sacrifices, temples) and for the rest those of Spanish culture (kings, monks, churches).

The central feature represents the submission of humans to machines, culminating in the masterpiece Man of Fire ."

Additional ceiling murals in the chapel by José Clemente Orozco
Additional ceiling murals in the chapel by José Clemente Orozco

The English brochure for the site includes very little information about the murals, so unless you're with a guide, or reading you'll have no idea what you're looking at.

Still, I found his style aesthetically appealing, even if I didn't understand the themes.

Inside the Chapel at Hospicio Cabañas
Inside the Chapel at Hospicio Cabañas

There's not much else to see here, aside from a few small galleries in the adjacent buildings.

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UNESCO

Hospicio Cabañas became a World Heritage Site in 1997.

Click here for the full list of UNESCO sites Dave has visited during his travels.

Scenes from Guadalajara's Historic City Center

My favorite view of Guadalajara Cathedral is from Plaza de la Liberación to the east
My favorite view of Guadalajara Cathedral is from Plaza de la Liberación to the east

[I] waved goodbye to Christine, Drew and family at the Puerto Vallarta bus terminal, and was soon speeding east toward Guadalajara.

Not knowing much of Mexico, I always thought Guadalajara was a pueblo.

Turns out it's the capital of the central state of Jalisco, and the second biggest city in the country after Mexico City (which we all know to be one of the largest cities in the world).

Five hours later, we pulled into the new bus terminal on the western outskirts of the city.

From there, I took a taxi to my hostel in the historic city center.

Downtown Guadalajara is awash in historic buildings, and despite its size, it's still more relaxed and manageable than Mexico City.

Front facade of Guadalajara Cathedral, which was built in the late 16th century. The area in front of the cathedral is known as Plaza Guadalajara.
Front facade of Guadalajara Cathedral, which was built in the late 16th century. The area in front of the cathedral is known as Plaza Guadalajara.

A French bandstand in the middle of the Plaza de Armas, east of the Cathedral. The Palacio de Gobierno (Governor's Palace) can be seen in the back left.
A French bandstand in the middle of the Plaza de Armas, east of the Cathedral. The Palacio de Gobierno (Governor's Palace) can be seen in the back left.

Huge ceiling mural painted by José Clemente Orozco in the Palacio de Gobierno
Huge ceiling mural painted by José Clemente Orozco in the Palacio de Gobierno. You can see more of Orozco's murals at the Instituto Cultutal Cabañas.

The Rotonda de los Jalicienses Ilustres
The Rotonda de los Jalicienses Ilustres (Rotunda of the Illustrious People of Jalisco) is north of the Cathedral. Statues of notable figures from the state surround the park.

The Teatro Degollado (Opera House) faces the Plaza de la Liberación east of the Cathedral
The Teatro Degollado (Opera House) faces the Plaza de la Liberación east of the Cathedral

Inside Teatro Degollado
Inside Teatro Degollado

Behind the Teatro is a fountain and sculpture, which marks the site where Guadalajara was founded in February 1542
Behind the Teatro is a fountain and sculpture, which marks the site where Guadalajara was founded in February 1542. In the late afternoon, this becomes a popular space for street performers.

One of the many churches in downtown Guadalajara
One of the many churches in downtown Guadalajara

Main building at Instituto Cultural Cabañas, a former orphanage and current UNESCO World Heritage Site
Main building at Instituto Cultural Cabañas, a former orphanage and current UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Varied Architecture of Malta

Kappella tas-Sagrament, Qawra, Malta
Kappella tas-Sagrament, Qawra, Malta (photo: Shepard4711)

[A]s a country it is one of the smallest states. Yet its strategic position has made it a popular place for empires over the centuries, the most recent of which was the British Empire.

The country gained independence in 1964 and joined the European Union in 2004. Yet, its landscape is a constant reminder of influences of the past.

This has given rise to an eclectic tapestry of buildings.

Co-op Travel have some excellent holiday deals to Malta to allow tourists the chance to experience some of this architecture.

Table of Contents

  • Kappella tas-Sagrament
  • Seaside Castle
  • Spanish Influences
  • Use of Limestone
  • Modern Designs

Kappella tas-Sagrament

Kappella tas-Sagrament in Qawra on Malta is a church and one very different to many others on the island.

It’s design has distinct Arab influences and it stands out from the many white buildings that are prominent in the area.

Qawra
Castle in Qawra (photo: Voyageur du Monde)

Seaside Castle

In stark contrast to the previous image, in the same town of Qawra is a small castle with a design that screams of Knights of St John design.

This much is evident from its square design, a feature of their castles and buildings.

Balconies
Balconies (photo: matthew_dp)

Spanish Influences

French and Habsburg Spain influences can often be found in the densely populated towns. Iron-gate fenced balconies and boxed windows are a common sight.

Limestone building
Limestone building (photo: GuidesNet)

Use of Limestone

Limestone architecture is another prominent feature on the island; many official buildings are made in this style.

Modern Malta
Modern Malta (photo: albireo2006)

Modern Designs

Despite the numerous examples of ancient architecture on the island, there is also more modern looking buildings to be found.

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This post was brought to you by Co-op Travel.

Making the Most of a Rainy Weekend in Valparaiso, Chile

In travel, one can rarely account for the weather. I left Santiago by bus to spend the weekend in the historic port city of Valparaiso, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Valparaíso is an exceptional testimony to the early phase of globalisation in the late 19th century, when it became the leading merchant port on the sea routes of the Pacific coast of South America. -- UNESCO

Valparaiso
Valparaiso

I also hoped to visit the beach in nearby Viña del Mar, but the rain, which hung over the city my entire stay, washed away those plans.

Despite the wet weather, the colorful buildings still managed to brighten up the city. Perhaps that's why they paint them.

One of the many colorful houses in the historic district
The orange house is a small hotel and restaurant.

I took a bed in a hostel dorm, with its creaky wooden floorboards and old metal bed frames. I felt like I was in The Goonies, a movie set in the U.S. Pacific Northwest.

During my two-day stay, I made a point of visiting La Sebastiana, one of Pablo Neruda's three former homes turned museums. I'd taken a guided tour of his primary residence, La Chascona, during my time in Santiago and enjoyed it.

La Sebastiana, the former home of Chilean Pulitzer Prize winning poet Pablo Neruda
La Sebastiana, the former home of Chilean Pulitzer Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda

His taste in decor and artwork is fascinating. No photos are allowed inside, so you'll have to visit for yourself to see what I mean. Admission to La Sebastiana is 4,000 Chilean pesos ($8), which includes an audio guide.

Graffiti in cerro Bellavista, an artistic neighborhood near Neruda's house
Graffiti in Cerro Bellavista, an artistic neighborhood near Neruda's house

I could not flag down a taxi from Neruda's house, so I began walking downhill toward the town center and my hostel. Along the way, I passed through the Bellavista neighborhood, artfully adorned with graffiti. I imagine it'd be a lot prettier when the sun is shining.

The architecture of Valparaiso is one of the best reasons to visit
The architecture of Valparaiso is one of the best reasons to visit

The architecture alone made the city worth a visit, and if I hadn't been on a mission to return to Peru for my Amazon trip, I would've stayed a few extra days to wait for the weather to clear. I did, however, ensure I was eating well. I had two fantastic dinners.

The first dinner was at Restaurant La Concepcion. I was seated in a small dining room before a wood fire. I ordered a glass of wine and pumpkin soup, followed by a crabmeat casserole baked in a traditional clay bowl.

Apertif
Aperitif

Dessert was a decadent flourless cake with chocolate glaze and ice cream. The waiter then brought me a complimentary glass of a local aperitif, which tasted terrible, but I tried to swallow a few sips out of politeness.

The second dinner at Sabor Color was good but not as impressive as the first. I ordered the grilled tuna with mushroom risotto and chocolate ice cream for dessert.

Grilled tuna medallion on quinoa and wild mushroom risotto at Sabor Color restaurant
Grilled tuna medallion on quinoa and wild mushroom risotto at Sabor Color restaurant

The Historic Quarter of the Seaport City of Valparaíso became a World Heritage Site in 2003. Click here for the complete list of UNESCO sites I've visited.

San Pancho Beach (aka San Francisco Beach)

San Francisco beach
San Francisco beach

[F]ifteen minutes north of Sayulita is San Pancho, which is also known as San Francisco, an even smaller beach town popular with hippies.

Seriously, it's on the scale of Ecuador's hippie beach town of Montanita, with a population of just a few hundred residents.

Only San Francisco doesn't offer good conditions for stand up paddle boarding, or swimming, due to a strong current.

Instead, expats like my friend Shannon are content to meet every evening on the beach to watch the sunset (an advantage to living on the Pacific coast vs. the Caribbean).

Organic Huevos Rancheros
Organic Huevos Rancheros

Speaking of Shannon, she just wrapped up three months of living and working in San Pancho.

The day after our visit to Sayulita, Christine, Drew, the kids and I met her there for brunch at the all-organic Bistro Organico in the Hotel Cielo Rojo.

The restaurant was situated on a patio on the ground floor, with a small water fountain and pool, which one adult customer actually used to take a full-on dip.

Christine took lots of photos, and posted them over on her blog, Almost Fearless.

After finishing my organic huevos rancheros, I asked the waiter about the "chocolate avocado pudding" advertised on a board in the restaurant.

Unfortunately, the chefs on duty didn't know how to make the dessert. The combination intrigued Christine.

View to the left on San Francisco beach
View to the left on San Francisco beach

View to the right
View to the right

After a very satisfying lunch, we hit the beach.

Unlike Sayulita, San Pancho beach isn't good for surfing, and the strong current means swimming isn't recommended either.

But it is less crowded, and prettier than Sayulita.

And as I understand it, a recent storm caused heavy erosion, which is why there is a steep drop-off in the level of the beach as you approach the water.

View from a restaurant. It appears the lack of surfing means fewer visitors to San Francisco, versus Sayulita.
View from a restaurant. It appears the lack of surfing means fewer visitors to San Francisco, versus Sayulita.

The start of low season seemed to have a bigger effect on San Pancho, which was practically deserted on the Sunday we visited, compared to Sayulita the day before.

I left the beach in an effort to find some cold medicine at a pharmacy.

Despite its diminutive size, San Pancho does feature a hospital, which was part of a former President's project in the town. Apparently, he also built a house for his mistress there.

Colorful cafe in San Francisco
Colorful cafe in San Francisco

I liked the look of San Pancho, with its colorful cafes, and opportunities to practice yoga, but the town would be too small for me to live in for a few months.

Sayulita is more my size, and I'd always have the option to visit San Pancho.

Shannon felt the opposite, preferring to live in San Pancho, and occasionally visit Sayulita.

After spending a few hours in San Pancho, we once again packed up the car and kids for the return drive to Bucerias.

Christine's homemade chocolate avocado pudding, with whipped cream
Christine's homemade chocolate avocado pudding, with whipped cream

Later that afternoon, Drew picked up supplies for chocolate avocado pudding, which Christine, bless her heart, decided to whip up that night.

The mixture was so rich and creamy, I was unable to finish the cup she served me above. I saved the second half for the following day. Delicious!

For more info, check out San Pancho or San Pancho Life.

My Day Trip to Sayulita Beach: Surf, Sand, and Serene Vibes

Once I'd had a chance to explore Puerto Vallarta, Christine and Drew introduced me to Sayulita, a small beach town 20 minutes north of their house in Bucerias and about an hour north of Puerto Vallarta. We took their car, but it's also accessible via a local bus. Another option is taxis, but they'd be a little expensive if traveling alone.

Approaching the beach in Sayulita, Mexico
Approaching the beach in Sayulita, Mexico
The view to the left features several hotels
The view to the left features several hotels

In addition to its beautiful beach, Sayulita is a popular surf town, especially for stand-up paddleboarding. Several surf schools lined the main beach, and people of all ages were in the water.

We camped out on the beach for a little while, enjoying the soothing sound of crashing waves. Cole, their son, enjoyed playing in the water while Stella slept under the shade of our umbrella. The scene reminded me of my visits to Jones Beach and Fire Island in New York as a kid.

Boats and bungalows
Boats and bungalows

I went for a barefoot stroll through the center of town, which was relatively empty because it was the start of the low season. No matter, I could tell Sayulita was my kind of town, and if I had the time, I'd spend at least a week there.

Hang out at the beach by day and grab beers by night. No wonder it's so popular with backpackers and expats making their way through Mexico. If Puerto Vallarta meets the needs of mass tourism, Sayulita Beach still appeals to those looking for a cheaper alternative.

Stand up paddle boarding is a popular sport in Sayulita
Stand-up paddleboarding is a popular sport in Sayulita
North of the main beach is a more residential area on a hill, with fewer surfers and sunbathers
North of the main beach is a more residential area on a hill, with fewer surfers and sunbathers

When I returned to the beach, Christine and Drew had packed up the beach stuff and were sitting in the shade of a restaurant. I re-joined them, and we hung out a little longer before packing up the kids and car and heading back to Bucerias. Sayulita became the first of several Mexican towns I could see myself living in for at least a few months.

For more info, visit Sayulitabeach.com or Sayulitalife.com.

Qutub Minar - The Tallest Minaret in India

Qutub Minar Complex
Qutub Minar Complex

While in Delhi, I had the opportunity to visit Qutub Minar, one of the most important historical icons of the city.

The attraction is one of the main UNESCO World Heritage sites in Delhi.

Ruins at Qutub Minar
Ruins at Qutub Minar

After paying the 250 Rupees entrance fee, I began to browse the many ruins and structures positioned within the complex.

Quwwat-ul Mosque
Quwwat-ul Mosque

Located next to the minaret is Quwwat-ul Mosque, one of the original Delhi mosques built by a Mughal ruler.

72.5 meter tall minaret
72.5 meter tall minaret

But it's the jaw-dropping sight of the 72.5-meter tall minaret, which served as a watch tower, that made visiting Qutub Minar one of the top things to do in Delhi.

It's mainly constructed of red sandstone, with sections dating back nearly 1,000 years ago.

Details of the minaret
Details of the minaret

Again, just like many of the historical attractions in India, like the Agra Fort, the fine details were extremely impressive.

Carved into the minaret were countless writings and depictions.

Qutub Minar in Delhi, India
Qutub Minar in Delhi, India

Giant flocks of birds dwelling within the ruins and flying back and forth from perch to perch added to the already amazing ambiance.

A favorite place to take photos
A favorite place to take photos

There are also a number of Mughal tombs at Qutub Minar, one of them being a favorite place for photos.

The marble and red sandstone carvings were intricately carved and some were well preserved.

Friendly students
Friendly students

While Qutub Minar is a popular foreign tourist attraction, it also attracts many local Indians as well, including lots of students who always love to be photographed!

Start of a new minaret
Start of a new minaret

Just a few hundred meters from the main minaret is the base of another minaret that was started and never completed.

This minaret was intended to be even taller and grander than the original, but unfortunately, it never happened.

Located in South Delhi, Qutub Minar is one attraction you don't want to miss when you're in Delhi.

A Quick Travel Guide to Tanzania

Ngorongoro Crater
Ngorongoro Crater (photo: wwarby)

[T]anzania is one of the most visually breath-taking countries on the planet.

Etched with extinct volcanoes, wildlife-packed plains, white sand beaches and the continent’s highest peak – the magnificent Kilimanjaro – this is a holiday destination with kick.

Top 5 Places to Visit

You might not want to dedicate too much time to the capital of Dar-Es-Salam, but you’d be missing out if you didn’t visit Kariakoo Market.

This mad, sprawling assortment of stalls is the biggest in the country and a good place to see what urban Tanzania is really like.

The extinct volcano of Ngorongoro Crater is packed with unique wildlife and offers phenomenal views. It’s a strange feeling to descend down over the high walls of the crater into a national park where lava once bubbled.

You’ll be likely to spot herds of elephants, rhinos and lions and in fact, is the only place in Tanzania where you’re virtually guaranteed to see all of The Big Five.

Take a trip to Karatu, a sweet highland town where much of life goes on as it did before tourism arrived. It’s often used just as a base for visiting the Ngorongoro Crater, but deserves more of your time than this.

The cooler climate offers a break from the lowland heat; you could spend days exploring the rural delights of the coffee plantations, walking through local villages, and watching Maasai herders caring for their cattle.

The gorgeous islands of Zanzibar are the perfect start or end to a holiday in Tanzania. Here, you’ll laze on sparkling white beaches and let the Indian Ocean lap at your toes.

The main island of Unguja has amazing diving on the coral reefs, Pemba is a forest-covered nature paradise, and Mafia offers up rustic fishing village charm.

The Serengeti National Park is a prime wildlife-watching spot, drawing visitors to marvel over the biggest animal migration in the world as wildebeest, antelope and zebra swarm over its great plains.

Book a hot air balloon rise at sunset to see it at its best, from a bird’s eye view.

When to Go

If you’re keen to catch the wildebeest migration, you’ll need to time your visit to fall in August or September.

For wildlife viewing in general, it’s best to visit during the dry season, from June to October, as animals gather at water holes.

Zanzibar is warm and sunny all the year round, although from February to April it’s hotter, more humid and gets a few more showers than the rest of the year.

What to Pack

It can get cooler than you might think in the evenings and early mornings, so take a light sweater or fleece and maybe even some gloves. A bandana or scarf is good for keeping dust off the face.

A few simple first aid items can come in handy, such as anti-diarrhea and anti-nausea pills, electrolyte powder for upset stomachs.

Take some wet wipes, hand sanitizer and toilet rolls too in case you need to use a public restroom!

You’ll also need to make sure you get the necessary jabs and get suitable malaria medication before you leave home.

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This post was brought to you by www.exsus.com.

Where to Stay in Barcelona: The 5 Best Neighbourhoods

Beach in Barcelona
Beach in Barcelona (photo: David Lee)

[M]aking your way to Barcelona? Excellent choice!

Now to decide in which area of this amazing city you want to stay. Are you a laid-back Barceloneta dweller, or a cool Born urbanite?

With so many different ‘barrios’ in the Catalan capital, each one offering a distinct cultural experience, choosing where to stay in Barcelona can be a little overwhelming.

Whether you are in search of the buzzing beach vibes of Barceloneta or the historic richness of the Gothic Quarter, choosing the right holiday apartment in Barcelona could mean the difference between a good trip and an incredible one.

Take a look at our list of the top five neighborhoods in Barcelona, all with their own charms and all in prime locations, making it easy for visitors to explore all of the Catalan capital, hassle-free!

Table of Contents

  • 1. Barceloneta
  • 2. Gothic Quarter
  • 3. Gràcia
  • 4. Eixample
  • 5. Born

1. Barceloneta

Situated right on the coast of the Mediterranean, the seaside village of Barceloneta offers visitors both astonishing sea views and easy access to all of the sights in and around the city.

This area is a popular choice with many travelers, and is perfect for those looking to make the most of the beaches in Barcelona.

With plenty of bars, shops and picturesque ports, Barceloneta is ideal for kicking back and escaping the hustle and bustle of the city.

The area is also home to some of the best seafood restaurants in the city, ensuring an all round Mediterranean experience.

2. Gothic Quarter

Intrigued by the longstanding history of Barcelona? Well then, the Barri Gòtic in the Ciutat Vella district is the only choice for you.

Nestled in between El Raval and El Born, the Gothic Quarter is home to winding alleyways and quaint plazas, allowing visitors to catch a glimpse of Barcelona’s history up-close.

Here you can stay right beside ancient Roman walls and medieval buildings, which are dotted all around the town.

Situated in the heart of the city, the area is also conveniently close to the famous Las Ramblas, making it easy to explore both the old and more modern parts of Barcelona.

3. Gràcia

In search of a traditional Catalan atmosphere? If so, Gràcia will be right up your alley. The neighborhood is located near the Eixample and Sarrià areas on the upper side of the city.

Here you can experience all the very best in Catalan culture, from small, locally owned boutiques to charming restaurants and lovely plazas, some of which play host to Sardana dances, the national dance of Catalonia, on Sundays.

In Gràcia visitors can enjoy a “small town” feeling, while still remaining close to all of the sights in Barcelona.

The area is slightly quieter during the day, but comes to life at night with a trendy bar scene that attracts everyone from young residents to celebrities.

If you’re heading to Barcelona in August, don’t miss the Festa Major de Gràcia: a week-long festival where the streets of this neighborhood are covered in brightly colored, home-made decorations and Mojitos are on sale around every corner!

La Sagrada Familia (photo: David Lee)
La Sagrada Familia (photo: David Lee)

4. Eixample

If you’re a Gaudí fanatic, then Eixample is the neighborhood for you.

This Barcelona ‘barrio’ is home to many of the most revered sights in the city, including the towering Sagrada Familia.

The district is also home to many outdoor cafes, shopping areas and parks.

Eixample is split into two districts (Eixample Izquierdo and Eixample Derecho) which hold equally as many exciting things to do or see.

Within this district you will also find the famous shopping street, Passeig de Gràcia, and two more of Gaudí’s best known creations: the colorful Casa Batlló and unique Casa Milà (La Pedrera).

5. Born

One of the oldest neighbourhoods in Barcelona, El Born, is home to charming boutiques, museums, quirky restaurants and cool bars.

This town was once the site of medieval jousting competitions and witch burnings, but it is now known as a trendy cultural hub where travelers can find something for everyone.

The famous Picasso Museum and the Santa María del Mar church can be found here, as well as some interesting eateries and unusual stores.

The Parc de la Ciutadella is to the north of the district and offers a great place to chill out or have a picnic. Choosing El Born as the base for your trip ensures a perfect combination of history and current culture.

So, whether you wish to kick back beachside, enjoy a true Catalan experience or get lost in the winding streets of the Old Town, there is certainly a neighbourhood for everyone looking to rent an apartment in Barcelona, be it for a short or long-term visit.

What’s more, this list is by no means extensive, with areas such as the artistic Raval and the upscale Sarrià providing their own charms to visitors to the city.

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This post was written and brought to you by Apartment Barcelona.

North Indian Food: Typical and Traditional Dishes

The Indian subcontinent is vast and home to a diverse range of cuisine. North Indian cuisines are far different from Northeastern Indian food or South Indian cuisines. And if you get even more specific, each region is famous for individual dishes.

After visiting a few of the major cities in the north of India and dining on lots of local food, I'll try to cover a few of the general things that I noticed distinctly about North Indian cuisine.

North Indian Food
North Indian food

Northern Indian cuisines are often what many people would think of as just Indian food. It's the North Indian curries that are usually found outside of India in Western restaurants (but don't forget about South Indian food either - it's equally as delicious, but different).

Within North India, you'll find everything from street stalls to high-end Indian restaurants like Bukhara, all serving classic North Indian fare, just as you would find it in Indian households.

Conventional cooking methods include deep-frying snacks, grilling or roasting meat, and slow-simmering for all sorts of curries. As soon as you arrive in India and start eating, you'll notice that there are many vegetarian restaurants available.

If you are a vegetarian, you'll enjoy the variety of tasty pure-veg dishes; if you're a meat-eater, you'll never be far from outstanding meat either!

Chapatis are typical of North Indian food.
Chapatis

While rice is the ultimate staple food in much of South India, rice is often available in the North, and a meal is never complete without Indian bread.

Tandoori roti, chapati, naan bread, and many other flatbreads, like aloo paratha, are extremely popular and vital for all North Indian meals, both as snacks and as main courses. Bread is the main filler and a great way to scoop up sauces.

Dal, or lentils, is an essential food in India. North Indian styles of dal curry are usually a little thicker and richer than South Indian variations. It's not uncommon for someone to eat dal and bread for a meal.

Chicken curry
Chicken curry

Diverse curries and barbecue meats are always available for more substantial main dishes.

Chicken, beef, mutton, and eggs are stewed in black pepper, aromatic spices, such as coriander leaves, and ghee (clarified butter). The thick, rich sauces are genuinely marvelous. A particularly rich favorite is butter chicken.

North Indian regions like Uttar Pradesh are also highly famous for barbecued meats.

One of the most famous is tandoori chicken, which is chicken marinated in spices and yogurt and then roasted in a clay oven known as a tandoor. Common vegetables include potatoes, peas, okra, onions, carrots, and beans.

Green leafy vegetables are not all that common, but some vegetables go well in curries. Dairy products play a massive role in North Indian food.

Paneer, a hearty cheese, is one of the most popular main ingredients, especially for vegetarians and those who need protein.

To sample this part of the country's cuisine at its finest, try a rich dish like paneer makhani, palak paneer, paneer tikka, or mutter paneer.

If you live in Europe and want to cook these meals, online Indian grocery stores in Germany can help. They sell real ingredients like paneer, ghee, and garam masala.

Thick full-fat yogurt is heavily used in snacks known as chaats and is often served along with any typical thali (a fixed meal including various dishes and starch).

Milk and milk products, like fresh cream, form the foundation of many North Indian desserts, dry fruits, and coconut milk.

Related: Top 9 Malaysian Foods

Chole bhature is a traditional North Indian food.
Chole bhature

One comfort food I especially enjoyed eating in Delhi is a dish known as chole bhature.

Chickpeas are curried in plenty of spices, dished up with chilies and onions, and garnished with cilantro. They can be found in Indian dishes like dal makhani, urad dal, dal baati, and moong dal.

It's also available in fast food all over the streets of Delhi and eastern India. It's usually eaten along with a few freshly grilled chapatis.

North Indian food is a joy to eat. It's rich, extremely satisfying, and packed full of spicy flavor!

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If you liked this story, check out Feastio, the new food blog from the founder of Go Backpacking. 

A Beginner's Guide To Traditional Tunisian Foods

If you've ever travelled to Tunisia before, you'll know it can be pretty expensive. However, if you fly from London Gatwick Airport and use Gatwick parking, you can save a significant amount, which can be spent on delicious Tunisian foods.

Tunisian Brik (photo: Rusty Clark)
Tunisian brik (photo: Rusty Clark)

For those unfamiliar with the practice, eating in Tunisia can seem like a strange and foreign experience.

Commonly served dishes may seem unfamiliar or be prepared with ingredients not typically combined in other countries. Of course, specialties may differ between regions, but certain dishes are considered staples of the Tunisian diet.

Though not a universal truth, many Tunisian dishes are spicy. The cuisine in Tunisia is a mixture of Mediterranean cuisine and that of desert dwellers.

A particular Tunisian spice mix, known as tabil, is used in many dishes. Tabil is made of garlic, cayenne or red pepper, coriander, and caraway seeds.

The ingredients are often mixed in a mortar and dried in the sun's rays. Beef, veal, and game are the most common dishes to be flavoured using tabil.

Visiting Tunisia soon? Book your hostel here

Table of Contents

  • Tunisian Cuisine
    • Appetizers
    • Main Courses
    • Desserts
  • A New World of Tastes

Tunisian Cuisine

Appetizers

Harissa is a ubiquitous Tunisian condiment and is often found as a part of every meal. The dish is a compote made of garlic, cumin, olive oil, and dried chilli peppers.

Many restaurants serve it as a dip for bread, and it is often complimentary, with each establishment or family having its unique harissa recipe. One common variation of Harissa involves sprinkling tuna on top of the dish.

Brik is one of the most common appetizers served in Tunisia. These are essentially fried triangle pastries filled with olive oil, parsley, egg, and tuna, and often served with lemon to be squeezed on top. This is usually a favorite appetizer among tourists.

Main Courses

Tunisian couscous on the right (photo: Rusty Clark).
Tunisian couscous on the right (photo: Rusty Clark)

Famous the world over, couscous is a staple in Tunisian cuisine and is considered the country's most iconic dish.

Tunisian couscous is made from finer grains than many other forms of couscous, and often includes harissa. It is commonly served with various meats, peppers, chickpeas, potatoes, and carrots. 

The most common meat is lamb, but some restaurants and dishes use chicken or fish. The best couscous is served in private homes on Sunday.

Ojja is a spicy stew made of meat, olive oil, garlic, peppers, tomatoes, harissa, and egg. It is often served in fast food restaurants, generally in a double serving meant for two people.

The most common type of ojja is made with small sausages, but variations include those made with lamb, beef, or seafood. In some places, vegetarian ojja can be ordered.

Baklava (photo: Nikki L).
Baklava (photo: Nikki L)

Desserts

Fruit is heavily consumed in Tunisia as a dessert, but there is also a variety of honey, nut, and pastry sweets that are considered traditional Tunisian desserts. Makroudh has a date filling. Baklava, also known as Balkawa in Greece, is filled with chopped nuts.

A New World of Tastes

Tunisia offers a variety of new tastes to try. If extremely fortunate, a visitor may be invited to a private home to share a meal with a family. If this happens, especially on a Sunday, it is considered a great honor and will undoubtedly be a treat for the visitor's taste buds.

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This post was provided and brought to you by Gatwick Parking.

Puerto Vallarta: My First Taste of Mexico

My first time in Mexico was as a kid. My parents took us on a family vacation to Club Med in Ixtapa, but I never left the resort.

Twenty-five years later, as an adult, I can't imagine going to Mexico and not taking the time to venture out and explore. Yet, the boom in all-inclusive resorts speaks to the popularity of the do-nothing vacation.

Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta

Travel Tip: In Mexico and everywhere I travel, I always carry a credit card with a large limit and low fees in case of an emergency. You can compare credit cards to use for travel emergencies online.

I arrived in Puerto Vallarta after 12 hours and three flights from Medellin. I was greeted by Christine and Drew Gilbert, their son Cole, and their new daughter Stella.

There are few things I appreciate more than someone waiting to greet me at an airport, whether it's friends or family or even the occasional tour guide holding my name on a sign.

All the everyday stresses of arriving in a strange and foreign city disappear.

We hopped into the minivan Drew had driven from the U.S. and went to the local Mega supermarket, which was immense. Along the way, we passed Walmart and Sam's Club on the highway.

The U.S. business influence was clear and present here, which is not something I'm used to living in Medellin.

After picking up groceries, we drove a bit further north on the highway, turned off onto a dirt road for a few blocks, and arrived at their house in Bucerias, a town thirty minutes north of Puerto Vallarta with far fewer beach resorts.

Looking for the best places to eat in Puerto Vallarta would have to wait; my first meal would be home-cooked.

From Drew's Instagram photos, I knew that they commonly saw donkeys and horses in the streets around their house, but it was another thing to see them with my own eyes.

The house is surrounded by walls and metal gates, which serve both as protection from the outside and as a way to keep Cole and the dogs inside.

Built by an expat, it was colorfully painted, with large, flower-filled trees winding their way up the surrounding walls.

Puerto Vallarta marina
Puerto Vallarta Marina

I quickly learned my priority was to give Cole attention, lots of it. We played with his Matchbox cars, which reminded me of that phase in my childhood, and threw things in his little kiddie pool (his idea, not mine).

The first evening was spent eating guacamole, drinking Pacifico beers, and catching up on their outdoor patio.

The next day, Christine and Drew had a blogging workshop to teach, and thus, I had the day to myself.

I walked over to the beach in Bucerías for my first look at the Pacific Ocean since leaving Lima last August, then asked a taxi to take me to the Malecón (boardwalk).

Twenty minutes later, he dropped me off at the entrance to the Marina, which has a little boardwalk, but it wasn't the one I had in mind.

It was already early afternoon, and I was getting hungry, so I walked around. The entire harbor is surrounded by restaurants, which would make for a great happy hour and nightlife scene, only it was a ghost town.

April is the start of the low season. Temperatures in Puerto Vallarta are starting to rise, and as Christine told me, many expats leave Mexico to spend the summer in another home, especially Canadians.

I was quickly convinced to grab lunch at Sticky Fingers by a Mexican host who spoke perfect English and was disarmingly effective at his job of getting people in the door.

I ordered fish tacos, and they were good but dry. Another day, I'd get my hands on far juicier ones in Old Vallarta. But it didn't really matter.

I was in Mexico, sipping beer, overlooking a beautiful marina filled with yachts. This was the life.

Old Puerto Vallarta
Old Puerto Vallarta

My next taxi took me down to the Zona Romantica, an older area of Puerto Vallarta ranked #1 on TripAdvisor. There's not much to see, per se, but it's a terrific place to eat and drink.

The Malecón runs along the beach, and there's a giant steel pier offering excellent views of the coastline.

As you can see from the photos, the beach isn't wide, but it's undoubtedly scenic, with the mountains serving as a backdrop for the hotels.

The center of Old Vallarta, with the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe in the background
The center of Old Vallarta, with the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe in the background

From the pier, I began to casually walk the length of the Malecon, shopping for a more stylish hat to replace the $3 Yankees cap I bought in a pinch weeks earlier.

In the center of Old Vallarta, I saw a sign explaining why you always see churches in the main plazas of Latin pueblos and cities (at least those established by the Spanish).

The planners followed a decree by King Phillip II in 1573, which stated that symbols of political and religious power should face a central square.

Statue along the Malecon (boardwalk)
Statue along the Malecon (boardwalk)

The Malecón in Puerto Vallarta is clean and well-designed. Statues and local art dot the way, as do dozens of restaurants, bars, and shops. This is where you'll find some of the best boutique Puerto Vallarta luxury hotels as well.

I imagined the nightlife to be exciting, given the size and location of the discotecas right along the boardwalk, overlooking the sea.

Add to that a mix of vacationing Mexicans and foreigners from around the world, and you're sure to see many pretty people getting wild off tequila shots and margaritas every weekend.

Typical bar on the Malecon
Typical bar on the Malecon

With Mexico on daylight savings time, I didn't have the patience or energy to wait for the sun to set. I took another cab back to Bucerias to meet up with Christine and Drew.

A few days later, we'd visit Old Vallarta for lunch at Mariscos Cisneros, a restaurant I can't recommend highly enough.

Soft crab tacos
Three soft crab tacos for 65 pesos ($5.39)

Instead of ordering individual entrees, we ordered a variety of appetizers to taste, including shrimp tostadas, soft crab tacos, shrimp empanadas, and mussels.

Everything was excellent and cheap, a recurring theme in the food I'd eat in Mexico.

Gangaramaya Temple: Colombo's Museum of Relics

Gangamaraya Temple in Colombo, Sri Lanka
Gangamaraya Temple in Colombo, Sri Lanka

On my last day of visiting Colombo, Sri Lanka, I decided to check out the famous Gangamaraya Temple.

The temple is one of the most well-known Buddhist centers in the city and attracts many locals as well as quite a few tourists each day.

The main part of the temple was built in the 1800s, but since then it has been accumulating more and more Buddhist religious relics and works of art.

There are two main sections of the temple, the main section (which I'll feature here), and just a short distance away is the Simamalaka shrine which is situated within Beira Lake.

One of the many statues at Gangamaraya Temple
One of the many statues at Gangamaraya Temple

Unlike many other temples I've visited in Asia, this temple wasn't overly ornate from the outside, and it wasn't a high-rise towering golden structure.

It was rather the relics and the statues within and surrounding the complex that made it impressive.

Entrance costs 100 Sri Lankan Rupees, and once you're inside you can begin to see the many sculptures, details, and decoration.

Rather than just being a Buddhist temple, Gangaramaya also includes a library, a learning center, and to me, it felt very much like a historical scholarly museum.

Along with the main shrines, there were many artful exhibitions to browse through.

Inside the main sanctuary
Inside the main sanctuary

The main sanctuary is filled with a huge statue of Buddha that is surrounded by a host of other statues and sculptures which are all neatly painted and brightly decorated.

Two huge elephant tusks stand on either side of the main statue.

Many Buddhist followers will first enter the sanctuary, possibly offer a gift, and then proceed outdoors where they can light candles and burn incense.

Outside in the courtyard
Outside in the courtyard

In the outdoor section, there is a series of steps filled with statues of Buddha making various hand signals as well as stone stupas.

The scene really reminded me of Borobudur in Indonesia, and I couldn't help but think that there had been a very similar influence in the design of both religious structures - Borobudur way outdating Gangamaraya.

Statue of Ganesha
Statue of Ganesha

In both design and decoration, Gangamaraya Temple has been influenced by Thai, Indian, Chinese, and local Sri Lankan styles.

One of the many shrines
One of the many shrines

There were many interesting and extravagant shrines like the one pictured above.

Gold, elephant tusks, statues, and fresh flowers were prevalent throughout the temple.

Chinese statues
Chinese statues

Walking into the Chinese section of the Gangamaraya Temple felt like a complete switch to another location.

The Chinese designed wooden cabinets were filled with Chinese style Buddhist figures and elaborate sculptures.

A hungry elephant at Gangamaraya Temple
A hungry elephant at Gangamaraya Temple

Just outside of the main sanctuary, surrounded by tables filled with burning candles and incense, and shaded by a huge tree, are a few elephants.

There's also a giant fake elephant sculpture on the complex too, but I preferred the real ones!

After living or traveling extensively in Southeast Asia and seeing many temples, it's sometimes not overly exciting to visit yet another temple.

But Gangaramaya Temple is a top attraction in Colombo, because it's not just a temple, but an entire museum packed with history and art.

Concha y Toro Wine Tasting and Tour

Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon

After tackling my list of the top 10 things to do in Santiago, I turned my attention toward a tour and wine tasting at Concha y Toro, the largest producer of wines in Latin America.

While their global reach is noteworthy, it's the fact that I use to drink one of their wines, Casillero del Diablo (translated as "Devil's Locker"), regularly when I was living back in the States.

The name alone enticed me to purchase my first bottle, but it was the relatively low cost and Cabernets and Merlots that kept me going back for more.

I've been lucky enough to visit some of the world's greatest wine regions, including Bordeaux, Stellenbosch, and Mendoza.

But visiting Concha y Toro was more exciting, because it was my first visit to a winery whose wines I'd already been buying and consuming.

Concha y Toro
Concha y Toro

19th century summer residence of the Concha y Toro family
19th century summer residence of the Concha y Toro family

Vineyards at Concha y Toro
Vineyards at Concha y Toro

Fall colors
Fall colors

Tasting a 2011 Chardonnay by Casillero del Diablo
Tasting a 2011 Chardonnay by Casillero del Diablo

Barrels fill the Casillero del Diablo (Devil's Locker)
Barrels fill the Casillero del Diablo (Devil's Locker)

The shadowy figure of a devil stands at the end of this wine cellar in Casillero del Diablo
The shadowy figure of a devil stands at the end of this wine cellar in Casillero del Diablo

Tasting four wines by Marques de Casa Concha, with cheese pairings
Tasting four wines by Marques de Casa Concha, with cheese pairings

Checking the color of one of the wines against the white background
Checking the color of one of the wines against the white background

Required pose at the entrance to Concha y Toro
Obligatory pose at the entrance to Concha y Toro

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What You Need to Know

How Much:  $17 for the traditional tour which includes 1-2 tastings, or $36 for the Marques de Concha tour (which includes the traditional tour + a tasting of 4 premium wines lead by a sommelier).

I highly recommend the Marques de Concha tour, which lasts an additional 30 minutes, and allows you to sample much more wine.

Where to Book:  Reserve your spot online through the Concha y Toro site.

Directions:  The winery is easily accessible from downtown, taking just one hour by metro. Take the blue line, #4, to Las Mercedes Station, and use the Concha y Toro exit. Then hop the 73, 80, or 81 Metrobus, or a taxi, to the winery.

What to Bring:  Camera

Holiday in Columbo: The 5 Must-See Sights of Sri Lanka’s Capital City

Sri Lanka sculpture (photo: 4Neus)
Sri Lanka sculpture (photo: 4Neus)

Columbo, Sri Lanka – How could one choose anything to see or do in this wonderfully cultural city, with its beautiful array of architecture and diverse religions?

Luckily, I have come across a few things that might help you to see the full spectrum of things to see during your holiday in Sri Lanka. Enjoy!

Table of Contents

  • 1. Temples
  • 2. National Museum
  • 3. The Elephant Orphanage
  • 4. Cinnamon Gardens
  • 5. Sri Pada

1. Temples

The Pettah area of Columbo is home to three Hindu Temples – The Goneshen, The Old Kathiresan and the New Kathiresan.

Each are intricately carved with beautifully coloured doorways; the Old Kathiresan and New Kathiresan Temples are both dedicated to the war-god Murugan, who is sometimes referred to as Skanda.

It is an area definitely worth checking out in the months of July and August, as this is when the annual Hindu Vel festival is in full swing.

During this time Pettah is used as the starting point for the religious procession where a large chariot is dragged to various Hindu Kovils temples on Galle Road.

Personally, this one would be a must for me as it is filled with colour, culture and even an experience you don’t have everyday, however, if you’re criminally insane and are not impressed with these spectacular temples there are some jewelry shops along the way.

2. National Museum

A spectacular white building which encases the long and rich history of Sri Lanka. The Natural History Museum is also included at the back of the property.

At Sri Lanka’s National Museum, the ground floor alone could intrigue you with the history of this astonishing place; the history lesson starts in the prehistoric era through to the present day; the history rooms have information ranging from politics to architecture and literature.

Upstairs, there are plenty of different displays available to observe, including watercolour paintings of Sri Lanka’s landscapes and a gigantic skeleton of a blue whale suspended from the ceiling.

There is an admission fee of Rs 500, and there are no personal cameras allowed inside, but you can check them in at the door. Be sure to check out the gift shop on your way out!

The National Museum should well and truly be considered as one of the key tourist attractions for anyone planning Sri Lanka holidays.

3. The Elephant Orphanage

In the north western town of Kegalla sits a wonderful discovery for anyone who loves animals. Pinnawela Orphanage is situated halfway between Columbo and the ancient royal residence, Kandy.

Established in 1975 this twenty-five acre orphanage is also a breeding ground; Pinnawela holds the largest herd of Elephants in the world, currently consisting of seventy-five impressive beasts.

Originally it was designed to give care and protection to baby elephants that were found in the jungle without their mother, who was either absent or dying (think of Dumbo and it's sad!).

There aren’t many elephant orphanages and this one just so happens to be one of the largest in the world, and thus it is definitely worth a look.

4. Cinnamon Gardens

Picture wide avenues lined with majestic trees, colonial mansions and shaded boulevards – sounds amazing, well readers its real.

The cinnamon gardens, built from the massive profit made by the spice plantations, are a definite must see for anyone with eyes, really.

To tempt you, I will divulge that there are some of Columbo’s most fashionable and exclusive shops, cafes and bars here. At the centre of the Cinnemon gardens is the Vihoramahdevi Park which is the city’s largest open space.

The only thing to watch out for is that Cinnemon Gardens house Sri Lanka’s richest residents who seem to like armed guards stood outside their homes who are of course trained professionals.

5. Sri Pada

Sri Pada (or Adams Peak) is regarded as a very sacred and holy site by Buddhists, Hindu’s, Christians and Muslims.

This amazing mountain stands at 7353ft and at its peak there is an indentation which resembles a footprint.

This supposed footprint of Buddha/Shiva/Adam/St. Thomas (they like to argue), is covered by a very handsome roof and is guarded by the priests of a very wealthy monastery, who reside halfway up the mountain.

Take note that there are many, many steps to reach the footprint and it takes several hours however there are rest stops along the way. Peak pilgrimage is in April.

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This post was provided in partnership with Travelbag.

Top 10 Things to Do in Santiago

Patio Bellavista
Patio Bellavista

The epic bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago brought me to one of South America's most modern and beloved capitals.

Santiago is often praised for its idyllic location, surrounded by snow-capped mountains easily visible from the city. In terms of natural beauty, I was curious to see how it stacked up to Medellin.

I took a taxi from the bus station to the Bellavista Hostel, which featured some of the most comfortable bunk beds, complete with down comforters, I've ever experienced.

As I continued to make my way back to Lima for a scheduled trip into the Peruvian Amazon, I was forced to give Santiago four short days. Despite the rush, I managed to see quite a lot.

Without further adieu, here are my top ten things to do in Santiago.

Graffiti in Bellavista
Graffiti in Bellavista

Table of Contents

  • 1. Bellavista
  • 2. Cerro San Cristobal
  • 3. La Chascona (Pablo Neruda's House)
  • 4. Museum of Memory and Human Rights (Museo de la Memoria y Los Derechos Humanos)
  • 5. Plaza de Armas
  • 6. Cerro Santa Lucia
  • 7. Chilean National Fine Arts Museum (Museo Nacional de Bella Artes)
  • 8. Santiago Museum of Contemporary Art (Museo de Arte Contemporaneo)
  • 9. Mercado Central
  • 10. Parque Las Esculturas

1. Bellavista

After catching a good night's sleep, my top priority was to check out the bohemian neighborhood of Bellavista.

Upon leaving the hostel, I immediately began to notice lots of excellent graffiti.

In Patio Bellavista, an outdoor mall featuring a variety of bars and restaurants, I jumped on the opportunity to eat fresh sushi for lunch.

There was an (imported) salmon shortage in Buenos Aires during my stay, but since Chile is one of their leading suppliers, it was a non-issue in Santiago.

The salmon nigiri at Fukai was the best I'd had since leaving Lima a few months earlier.

After lunch, I continued to walk around the neighborhood, taking in the vast number of discotecas that lined the streets.

This was my kind of neighborhood, and I could picture myself spending a lot of time in Bellavista if I ever chose to live in Santiago.

View of Santiago from atop Cerro San Cristobal
View of Santiago from atop Cerro San Cristobal

2. Cerro San Cristobal

In addition to a busy restaurant and nightlife scene, Bellavista is also the point of access for a funicular leading up to the top of Cerro San Cristobal.

At an elevation of 880 meters, it's the second-highest point in the city.

Open Mondays from 2 PM to 7 PM, and the rest of the week from 10 AM to 7 PM, a roundtrip ride to the top costs 1,800 Chilean Pesos ($3.75).

Halfway up the hill, you can get off the funicular and visit the National Zoo of Chile for an additional 3,000 Chilean pesos ($6.30).

The zoo is built into a hillside reminded me of the zoo in Banos, Ecuador, and the Darjeeling Zoo in India.

Highlights include a white Siberian tiger, African lions, and jaguars, but if its scenic city views you're after, it's best to head straight for the top of the hill.

Once you reach the top, you'll be treated to sweeping views of Santiago, although if you're in the city any time but in Summer or after a heavy rain, don't be surprised if a blanket of smog disrupts that view.

The summit also features a theater, sanctuary to the Immaculate Conception (a little church), and a giant white statue of the Virgin Mary.

Part of of La Chascona
Part of La Chascona

3. La Chascona (Pablo Neruda's House)

Pablo Neruda is Chile's Nobel Prize-winning poet. One of his homes, La Chascona, is also located in the Bellavista neighborhood, a few blocks from the funicular.

I wasn't familiar with Neruda before arriving in Santiago but found the guided tour of his home to be both interesting and well worth the 4,000 Chilean peso cost ($8.40).

In particular, he purposefully designed his homes to resemble boats. Later, I would visit La Sebastiana, another of his houses-turned-museums, in Valparaiso.

Pablo Neruda has been in the news recently, as his body was exhumed to determine whether he was poisoned, as some believe, or died from natural causes (prostate cancer).

Museum of Memory and Human Rights
Museum of Memory and Human Rights

4. Museum of Memory and Human Rights (Museo de la Memoria y Los Derechos Humanos)

If you can tear yourself away from Bellavista, I highly recommend the Museum of Memory and Human Rights, which opened on January 11, 2010.

For starters, the architectural design of the museum is unlike anything I've ever seen.

A large green rectangular box sits on two concrete pedestals to form a bridge of sorts.

The museum commemorates "the victims of Human Rights violations during the Military Regime led by Augusto Pinochet between 1973 and 1990" (Wikipedia).

As an outsider unfamiliar with Chilean history, I found the museum to be eye-opening.

In addition to tourists, there were numerous schoolchildren there to learn about these tragic events.

National History Museum in the Plaza del Armas
National History Museum in the Plaza del Armas

5. Plaza de Armas

The Plaza de Armas forms the historic city center of Santiago.

The large plaza features the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago, the Central Post Office, and the National History Museum.

I consider any central plaza of a capital city a "must-see," but I didn't find this one to be especially attractive or interesting.

Atop Cerro Santa Lucia
Atop Cerro Santa Lucia

6. Cerro Santa Lucia

For a different perspective on the city, climb up Cerro Santa Lucia.

At 629 meters, it's a few hundred shorter than Cerro San Cristobal, and its location closer to the city center allows for better views of Santiago's modern skyscrapers.

I climbed the hill's many stony stairs at sunset, only to find a yellow smog obscuring the views.

National Fine Arts Museum
National Fine Arts Museum

7. Chilean National Fine Arts Museum (Museo Nacional de Bella Artes)

Inaugurated in 1910, the National Fine Arts Museum features a fantastic architectural design, both outside and within.

The 600 pesos ($1.25) entrance fee makes it accessible to visitors of all budgets, and it's worth taking a peek inside the grand hall, which is lined with sculptures.

The grand hall is the only room where photography is allowed.

A Fernando Botero horse stands in front of the Museum of Contemporary Art
A Fernando Botero horse stands in front of the Museum of Contemporary Art

8. Santiago Museum of Contemporary Art (Museo de Arte Contemporaneo)

Located in Parque Forestal, behind the Fine Arts Museum, is the Museum of Contemporary Art.

The entrance is marked by a giant horse sculpture by Colombian artist Fernando Botero, and the entrance fee is the same, 600 pesos ($1.25).

Inside Mercado Central (the seafood market)
Inside Mercado Central (the seafood market)

9. Mercado Central

Foodies should make it a point to stop by Mercado Central for lunch or dinner.

Santiago's chaotic seafood market is a mix of fishmongers selling the fresh catches and the restaurants that cook them.

It was recommended that I grab lunch at Tio Willy's restaurant, which was not located in the main hall (pictured above).

I ordered swordfish, with a side salad, for 6,980 pesos ($14.60), but I wasn't impressed and wished I'd eaten in one of the more renowned restaurants like Augusto, which offered more in the way of atmosphere.

Check out Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations: Chile (Season 5, Ep.10) for more info.

Parque de las Esculturas
One of my favorite sculptures from Parque de las Esculturas

10. Parque Las Esculturas

The Parque Las Esculturas was one of the last sites I managed to squeeze in before boarding a bus to Valparaiso on the coast.

It was also one of my favorites, and you can't beat the cost (free).

I lucked out with beautiful blue skies, which made walking through the park all the more enjoyable.

The park doesn't seem to make the other top 10 lists out there, but I'd highly recommend a visit.

On a clear day, you'll also have excellent views of Cerro San Cristobal.

24 Hours in Bratislava, Eurotrip Edition

My inspiration for visiting Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, was to relive the scene above from one of my favorite travel movies, Eurotrip.

It's not the first time a movie has inspired me to visit a new place. The Beach led me to Maya Bay in Thailand, and I relived Swingers at The Dresden in Los Angeles.

A warm greeting at the Bratislava train station.
A warm greeting at the Bratislava train station

Unfortunately for Bratislava, I was visiting as winter was rearing its grey and chilly head. After taking a short train ride from Vienna, I was greeted with a giant "Welcome to Slovakia" sign at the Bratislava train station.

On a tight schedule, I immediately decided to allocate just one night in Bratislava and made the most of it.

Colorful buildings mark the historic center of Bratislava in Slovakia.
Colorful buildings mark the historic city center.

I dropped off my belongings at a guesthouse, picked up a map at the local tourism office, and began walking around the medieval city center. According to Wikitravel, many of the buildings have undergone renovations in recent years.

As I walked around, I couldn't help but note all the bars. Despite the dreary weather, I had to cut Bratislava some slack. The historic center had the potential to be a lot of fun during the warmer months of Spring and Summer.

Pub in the city center
Pub in the city center
One of the more interesting vantage points
One of the more interesting vantage points

Short on time, I didn't even make an effort to visit Bratislava Castle. Dating back to 907 AD, it is situated on a hill with a commanding view of the city. Instead, I wandered the streets, looking for interesting photos.

Eventually, I made my way back to the central plaza and popped into a crowded cafe as the sun began to set. A long list of hot chocolate variations filled a page of the menu. I kept it simple, opting for a classic hot chocolate.

Seriously thick hot chocolate
Seriously thick hot chocolate

The consistency was thick and rich. Heavy on the chocolate and milk, or maybe it was cream.

When I asked my waitress for a restaurant recommendation, somewhere I could get authentic Slovak food, she pointed me next door. The restaurant, also overlooking the central plaza, was practically empty.

Goulash of deer meat with thyme and homemade dumplings
Goulash of deer meat with thyme and homemade dumplings

I ordered the goulash made with deer meat, thyme, and homemade dumplings. The presentation, akin to slop on a plate, left a little to be desired, but the actual flavors and meat were delicious.

St. Clare's Church and the central square lit up on a cold and rainy night
St. Clare's Church and the central square lit up on a cold and rainy night

By the time I stepped out of the restaurant with a full belly, it was completely dark. The colorful buildings of the central plaza, including St. Clare's Church, were nicely lit. I walked back to the guest house, anxious to board a train to Budapest the following day.

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My travel to and from Bratislava by train was made possible with a Global Eurail Pass, courtesy of Eurail.com.

Final Thoughts: Argentina

Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires

Last year, I spent two and a half months traveling in Argentina. From six weeks in Buenos Aires to Patagonia, I covered a good amount of ground. There was a lot to appreciate in the country. Patagonia was by far my favorite region, followed by Mendoza and Cordoba. If and when I return, it'd be to visit Iguazu Falls, Bariloche, and Salta.

Ice climbing in Patagonia
Ice climbing in Patagonia.

Highlights

  • My First 24 Hours in Buenos Aires, where I met up with friends Mike and Stephanie.
  • Ice Climbing on Viedma Glacier was a dream come true, and we got to walk under it.
  • Perito Moreno Glacier
  • Flying a plane over the Beagle Channel in Ushuaia
  • Tango Porteno dinner show in Buenos Aires
  • Learning to dance tango
  • Boca Juniors soccer match
  • Graffiti tour
  • Buenos Aires Zoo
  • Japanese Zen Gardens
  • Proximity to Uruguay (an easy day trip to Colonia or Montevideo by ferry)
  • Churches of Cordoba
  • Che Guevara's house in Alta Gracia
  • Bicycle wine tour in Mendoza (one of two wine tours I did there)
  • A scenic bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago
Japanese gardens in Buenos Aires
Japanese gardens in Buenos Aires

Lowlights

My Canon S100 camera broke on the last day of my Patagonia trip, on the flight from Ushuaia back to Buenos Aires.

I later learned it was due to a manufacturer defect. Luckily, Eric and Shaun of Overyonderlust.com had a friend coming to visit from the USA, and he was willing to receive and bring me a replacement S100.

Coming back to a hostel to find my storage "locker" ajar and immediately thinking the other guy in the room (who'd checked out while I was gone) had robbed me. All my belongings, money, and passport were OK, but I'm now much more careful about securing my belongings.

Steak with blue cheese at La Cabrera in Buenos Aires
Steak with blue cheese at La Cabrera in Buenos Aires

Food & Drink

  • Easily the best steaks I've had in Latin America
  • Copious amounts of Argentine wine
  • Alfajores
  • Gelato is the best I've had in Latin America, and it competes with the Europeans.
  • Dulce de Leche
  • Mate, their herbal tea
  • Eating my way through Patagonia (King Crab chowder and the lamb, especially)
  • The Best Parillas in Buenos Aires
  • 5 Restaurant Recommendations in Palermo Soho
My studio apartment in Palermo Soho
My studio apartment in Palermo Soho

Average Cost Per Day

I don't have exact figures, but I was surprised at the cost of living in Argentina. It was higher than I expected. I'd estimate 25% higher than Colombia or Peru.

Sample Expenses:

  • $800 - Studio apartment rental in Buenos Aires' Palermo Soho neighborhood (via Airbnb)
  • $140 - Cost of entry/tourist visa for American citizens
  • $120 - Boca Juniors game (when booked as an organized trip through a hostel)
  • $50 - Hourly rate for private tango lessons
  • $20 - Cost of a dorm room at a popular hostel in Buenos Aires (old building, average facilities)

By comparison, I found Uruguay to be about 25% more expensive than Argentina.

Top 10 Things To Do in Vienna

My first visit to Vienna was in 1998, as I backpacked Europe with friends for the summer after my college graduation. After an exciting few days in Prague, we boarded a train for Vienna.

Upon arrival, we left the station and hopped on a trolley that took us around the city, but we had no idea where we were going. Less than an hour later, we were back at the train station with our sights on Italy.

Inside the Kunsthistorisches Museum, you can find one of Raphael's masterpieces, The Madonna of the Meadow (1505). This museum is one of the best things to see in Vienna, Austria.
Inside the Kunsthistorisches Museum, you can find one of Raphael's masterpieces, The Madonna of the Meadow (1505).

Looking back, I have to smile because that's the kind of spur-of-the-moment decision-making possible when traveling with a Eurail pass.

My subsequent exposure to Vienna came through the lens of Richard Linklater in the 2004 cult classic Before Sunrise (one of my all-time favorite travel movies).

In the fall of 2012, I made it a point to give Vienna another try, this time traveling solo. I discovered a city rich in culture, art, and grand palaces. What follows are my recommendations for the top things to do in Vienna.

Table of Contents

  • Vienna Attractions
    • 1. Museum of Fine Arts (Kunsthistorisches Museum)
    • 2. MuseumsQuartier
    • 3. Schönbrunn Palace
    • 4. Tiergarten (Zoo)
    • 5. St. Stephen's Cathedral (Stephansdom)
    • 6. Naschmarkt
    • 7. Belvedere Palace (Schloss Belvedere)
    • 8. State Opera House (Staatsoper)
    • 9. Sigmund Freud Museum
    • 10. Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule)

Vienna Attractions

1. Museum of Fine Arts (Kunsthistorisches Museum)

The Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna's Museum of Fine Arts, is immense. At 14 euros, or $18, it's expensive, but I guarantee you'll get your money's worth.

One can find everything from collections of Egyptian art and Greek antiquities to medieval armor and modern art. My favorite period is the Italian Renaissance, which I studied extensively in college.

Stumbling across Raphael's Sistine Madonna in the Old Masters Gallery in Dresden was a real surprise, but Vienna had one of my favorites by Raphael, The Madonna of the Meadow (1505).

Also, you can view numerous other masterpieces by Titian, Hieronymous Bosch, Peter Bruegel, Jan Vermeer, and Albrecht Durer. Best of all, unlike in Dresden, non-flash photography is allowed.

2. MuseumsQuartier

Leopold Museum
Leopold Museum

Across the street from the Museum of Fine Arts is the MuseumsQuartier, a complex featuring several smaller museums focused on more contemporary art, a performance space, and a few cafes.

Most notably, the white Leopold Museum (€12, or $16) is dedicated to Austrian art from the 19th century onward, while the black stone Museum of Modern Art (MUMOK, €10 or $13) features permanent exhibits of 20th-century art and rotating exhibitions.

When I visited the MUMOK, there was a temporary exhibit by Dan Flavin entitled "Lights," which consisted of various galleries lit up by multi-colored fluorescent lights.

See also: Best Museums in Stockholm

3. Schönbrunn Palace

Touring the massive Schönbrunn Palace is a popular thing to do in Vienna.
The massive Schönbrunn Palace

According to its website, "Schönbrunn Palace is part of the World Cultural Heritage and Austria's most visited sight."

What initially started as a hunting lodge at the end of the 17th century was later transformed into the Summer residence of the Habsburgs (the ruling family of the time). Between the place and expansive gardens, this palace is on a similar scale to France's Versailles.

Audio and human-guided tours are timed throughout the day, with admission prices depending on how much you want to see. The Imperial Tour with an audio guide costs €11.50, or $15.

More so than the palace's interior, which you're not allowed to photograph, I enjoyed walking through the well-manicured gardens just as the Autumn colors were at their peak.

4. Tiergarten (Zoo)

Nepalese red panda
Nepalese red panda

Accessible from Schönbrunn Palace, at the cost of €15 or $20, is Tiergarten. Built in 1752, it's the world's oldest zoo, featuring a variety of animals, including panda bears, lions, tigers, cheetahs, and rhinos.

I rarely pass up the chance to visit a capital city zoo, but I found this one to be pretty small, yet it's so convenient if you're already seeing the palace. You may not want to skip it, either.

See also: 5 Days in Salzburg

5. St. Stephen's Cathedral (Stephansdom)

One of the best things to do in Vienna is to visit St. Stephen's Cathedral
St. Stephen's Cathedral

Another of Vienna's most famous and visited sites is St. Stephen's Cathedral. Built in 1147, its 137-meter spire made it the tallest building in Europe for quite some time. As you can tell from the photo above, it was undergoing a massive renovation at the time of my visit.

The results are astounding if you compare the before, the dark-colored side, with the after, the lighter-colored front facade. The steeply pitched, zig-zagging tile roof adds color to an otherwise drab Gothic church.

6. Naschmarkt

Fruit and vegetable stalls at the Naschmarkt
Fruit and vegetable stalls at the Naschmarkt

One thing I noticed during my brief stopover in Brno, Czech Republic, is that Europeans still love to buy their fruits and vegetables at open-air markets.

Vienna features several large outdoor markets, the most popular of which is Naschmarkt. My Wombat's Hostel was located across the street from the market, so visiting it was the first thing I did in Vienna.

A dizzying labyrinth of around 120 market stalls offers everything from fruits and veggies to sausages, pastries, and ice cream. If you want to save on food costs, skip the restaurants (which the market also features) and eat from the streets.

Every evening, the locals also frequent the market to enjoy drinks at any of the numerous bars, most of which offer a combination of indoor and outdoor seating. To my surprise, colder temperatures didn't deter anyone from shopping and hanging out at the market.

See also: Top Things To Do in Munich

7. Belvedere Palace (Schloss Belvedere)

The Upper Belvedere Palace
The Upper Belvedere Palace

The Belvedere Palace consists of two large Baroque buildings, the Upper and Lower Palaces, separated by a large garden. The Upper Belvedere, which I visited, features several art galleries.

A variety of admission tickets are available for one or more buildings in the complex. A combo ticket for everything costs €21.50, or $28.

Located a 5-minute walk from the train station used to reach Bratislava, the Upper Belvedere Palace is easy to squeeze in if you're already in the neighborhood. Luggage can be checked in the clock room.

8. State Opera House (Staatsoper)

State Opera House (photo: Alberto da Sienta)
State Opera House (photo: Alberto da Sienta)

Fans of the performing arts, including opera, will be hard-pressed to find a more fitting and stately venue than the State Opera House, known locally as Staatsoper.

Performances have occurred here since 1869, and tickets can be booked online. Proper attire is required. Curious visitors just looking to take a peek inside can take advantage of the guided tours that are also available.

9. Sigmund Freud Museum

Furniture inside the Freud Museum, one of the top things to do in Vienna
The furniture inside the Freud Museum

In the #9 spot, we have the Sigmund Freud Museum in the famous doctor's former office and living quarters. This small museum features a collection of Freud's former belongings and aims to educate visitors about the man behind the psychology. At €8, or $10, it isn't cheap (though it is one of the least expensive things to do in Vienna).

10. Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule)

Spanish Riding School (photo: Rp72)
Spanish Riding School (photo: Rp72)

The Spanish Riding School in Vienna is the only institution in the world that has practiced for over 440 years and continues to cultivate classical equitation in the Renaissance tradition of the haute école.

School website

As exciting as that might sound, I decided to skip the Spanish Riding School in person after reading about Andrew McCarthy's experience in The Longest Way Home.

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UNESCO

The Palace and Gardens of Schönbrunn became a World Heritage Site in 1996, and the Historic Centre of Vienna was listed in 1996. Click here for the list of UNESCO sites Dave has visited during his travels.

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My travel to/from Vienna by train was made possible by a Global Eurail Pass, courtesy of Eurail.com.

Day Trip to Kolkata's Belur Math and Dakshineswar Kali Temple

Kolkata, in West Bengal, India, is one of the loudest and most chaotic cities I've ever visited-but it's also one of the most exciting! After visiting Mother Teresa's Home, Victoria Memorial, and several other famous places in Kolkata, I was ready to go on a more extended excursion to see Belur Math and the Dakshineswar Kali Temple.

Belur Math

Belur Math temple in Kolkata, India.
The Hindu temple of Belur Math

These are two famous 19th-century temples north of the city, and one day during my visit, I decided to go to both of them on a little day trip. The first stop was Belur Math, a temple dedicated to Ramakrishna Math and Mission, a branch of Hinduism.

We took a taxi from the Howrah station to the temple gate to get there. Unlike a few other Kolkata attractions, Belur Math was quiet and peaceful.

After entering the gates, I was relieved to find no touts hanging around and no one trying to sell me anything. Unfortunately, they had a very strict no-photo policy, and if anyone tried to snap a photo, a guard would immediately run up and enforce the rule. So, the only picture I captured was this glimpse from the river.

The architecture of Belur Math in Kolkata is mainly Hindu and Buddhist in design, but it also uses Islamic (Mughal) and Christian ideas and decorations in the construction. There's a place to remove your shoes and safely store them as you walk around the interior.

Boat Ride

Entering the pier after touring Belur Math.
Entering the pier

After walking around Belur Math for about an hour, I proceeded to the banks of the Hooghly River to catch a boat to the Dakshineswar Kali Temple.

You can either take a private boat (for which you'll have to pay the entire fee) or wait until enough people have gathered to take a shared boat. I waited about 15 minutes until enough people could share a boat.

After we were jam-packed onto a tiny boat, the ride took about 20 minutes and cost just 10 Rupees per person.

Riding the boat.
Riding the boat
View of the Hooghly River.
Hooghly riverbank

On the boat ride, it was nice to see the life on each side of the river while the small engine of the boat slowly battled its way upstream.

The Hooghly River is a distributary (meaning it's an offshoot) of the sacred Ganges River, which Hindus also consider holy water. Along its banks, many people bathe, wash their clothes, and splash in the water.

Bathing in the Hooghly River.
Bathing in the Hooghly River
Food and drink stalls outside Dakshineswar Temple in Kolkata.
Food and drink stalls outside the temple

Dakshineswar Temple

We finally arrived at Dakshineswar, a much larger temple than Belur Math. Since I went on a weekend, many people were at the temple complex, most of them waiting in line to enter the central part of the temple and pay respect to the Kali Goddess. There's no entry fee. However, donations are accepted.

Surrounding the temple were many Hindu religious items, such as statues of Lord Shiva, for purchase, and plenty of snacks and beverages. The line to enter the main temple stretched for miles as Hindus waited for their turn.

After visiting Belur Math in Kolkata, we saw Dakshineswar Kali Temple.
Dakshineswar Temple in Kolkata

Not having the time to wait hours to get in, I mostly explored the surrounding area, observed the river, and walked around for different views of the temple. The Dakshineswar Kali Temple almost didn't look real; it looked like a painting!

After a few hours of exploration, I jumped in a yellow Kolkata taxi and returned to the city center. It was another wild ride through the narrow and always teeming streets of Kolkata, a city where everything you do is an adventure!

Peaceful Beauty of Gangtok, India

View of Gangtok city
View of Gangtok city

Gangtok is a pleasant town located in the Sikkim state of India.

In the Eastern Himalayas, the city is gorgeous and populated by a mixture of Nepalis, Tibetans, and Indians.

One of the highlights was riding the Gangtok Ropeway, a cable car that offers some incredible scenery of the mountains and city.

One of Gangtok's jeep stations
One of Gangtok's jeep stations

Gangtok is most easily accessible by jeep.

The closest railroad station is about 4 hours away and there are many neighboring villages that are reached by jeep on dangerous bumpy roads.

Friendly students in Gangtok
Friendly students in Gangtok

Many people in Gangtok are extremely friendly and this group of students were excited to have their photo taken.

Waiting for LPG
Waiting for LPG

Being in the mountains, getting things like cooking gas can sometimes be challenging.

While walking around one day, I noticed a long line of residents waiting patiently to get refills on their LPG tanks.

MG Marg walking street
MG Marg walking street

One of the nicest aspects of Gangtok is the walking street.

Off limits to motored vehicles, MG Marg road is a nice street that's lined with flowers and home to businesses and restaurants.

Deep fried pakoras
Deep fried pakoras

Since Gangtok is inhabited by a diverse quantity of ethnicities, there's a variety of cuisine.

Central Indian food and snacks like onion pakoras are widely available and delicious.

Fresh plate of chicken momos
Fresh plate of chicken momos

Tibetan / Nepali foods like steamed momo dumplings are also extremely popular.

These momos from Taste of Tibet restaurant were filled with chicken and I couldn't resist a big dab of hot sauce on them before devouring them all.

Ranka Monastery
Ranka Monastery

Just a 45 minute jeep ride away is the Tibetan Buddhist Ranka Monastery.

There are quite a number of temples and monasteries around Gangtok and some of them make a great day trip.

Tibetan prayer flags
Tibetan prayer flags

At the top of the Gangtok hill, where the ropeway begins is a mountain park that offers some spectacular views.

The windy trees are decorated with countless Tibetan Buddhist prayers flags adding to the lovely atmosphere.

Do Drul Chorten Stupa
Prayer wheels at the Do Drul Chorten Stupa

Gangtok is a beautiful little town that's nestled in the Himalayas.

Though there aren't too many attractions to see, the beauty, the scenery of the mountains, and the pleasantness of the town make it a great place to spend some time.

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Editor's Note: Dave here. Mark's photos bring back memories of my own journey to Sikkim in 2008. 

In addition to exploring Gangtok, you can book a variety of jeep tours to Tsomgo Lake (where you can ride a yak), and further north on precarious roads to Tsopta Valley and Yumthang (Valley of Flowers).

History of Mardi Gras, Then and Now

New Orleans Mardi Gras 2013
Fat Tuesday in full force

Mardi Gras, which translates to French as “Fat Tuesday,” is ostensibly a religious celebration.

But ask anybody who has been to New Orleans for Mardi Gras about the religious nature of the festivities are, and you will get a chuckle.

Mardi Gras is now a purely hedonistic celebration. It’s a celebration of Jesus about as much as Christmas time at the mall.

Mardi Gras Hedonsim
In search of hedonism

How Mardi Gras in New Orleans went from being part of the Catholic observation of the time before lent to a party in the streets known for its bead and bare breast exchange market is a little bizarre.

The truth is New Orleans is certainly not the only city in the world to celebrate the period before lent.

Catholics everywhere celebrate the carnival season as sort of a sin stock up for the dry season of lent.

Carnival in Brazil is probably the most famous example of this. Or Colombia.

But in the United States, Mardi Gras has become synonymous with New Orleans, which has incorporated the traditions of Carnival with jazz and voodoo mysticism to create a celebration that couldn’t exist anywhere else.

See also: New Orleans Cocktail Tour: A History of Mixed Drinks

Mardi Gras Beads
Weeks after carnival beads remain in the trees

In the U.S., the first Mardi Gras celebrations were in Mobile, Alabama, which was also part of the French territory that Thomas Jefferson would later buy off of Napoleon.

It wasn’t until 1856 that New Orleans’ Mardi Gras got weird, however, when a bunch of dudes, inspired by Mobile’s Cowbellion de Rakin Society, the first secret mystic society in the U.S. to wear masks, organized a new secret society in the French Quarter that celebrated Mardi Gras with a formal parade.

Mardi Gras Parade
2013 Mardi Gras parade

I’m not sure how you can claim to be a secret society when you are organizing public parades, but that’s the point.

These guys were having fun dressing up and doing “secret” things. It’s silly and fun, and so is Mardi Gras.

Mardi Gras Costumes
Modern Mardi Gras costumes

The state of Louisiana made Mardi Gras (the day, not the whole celebration, which is referred to as Mardi Gras season) a holiday in 1875.

Although most people associate Mardi Gras with Bourbon Street in New Orleans, none of the parades that run daily for the two weeks of Mardi Gras pass down Bourbon Street, mostly because the streets are too narrow and there are constant obstructions overhead.

Mardi Gras parades
Yours truly celebrating one of the parades

The parades are organized by Carnival krewes, which create floats and awesome costumes and dance through the streets, often repeating the same route for years.

This is part of what makes Mardi Gras so cool: even though it’s a huge celebration, so much of it is still organized at the grassroots, community level.

New Orleans Floats
One of the locally organized floats

Mardi Gras is a party, and it has rightfully become associated with drinking and flashing breasts in the popular imagination.

Street scene
Street scene

But in actuality, it is so much more than that.

It is a celebration of a local culture that is like no other, and its costumes, traditions, music, and floats demonstrate incredible creativity and passion that goes far beyond just getting wasted.

Beads
Beads adorn the gates of houses everywhere

It’s a celebration of life in nearly all of its complexities.

You can get drunk and party anywhere. You can only get Mardi Gras in New Orleans.

KFC costume
KFC costume

Mardi Gras suave
Mardi Gras suave

Bourbon Street
Bourbon Street

London bus
London bus

Mardi Gras Elvis
Mardi Gras Elvis

Costumes
Costumes

The author
The author (left)

Siriraj Medical Museum: Bangkok's Freaky Medical Museum

Bangkok's Medical Museum
Bangkok's Medical Museum

Skeletons, human deformations, and death from accidents sound interesting to you?

You'll love Bangkok's freaky, yet incredibly insightful medical museum.

Among the many interesting things to do in Bangkok, is the Siriraj Medical Museum.

Siriraj is the most famous and one of the best hospitals in all of Bangkok; it's also a huge training hospital where medical professionals learn, watch, and gain experience.

Located within the hospital is the museum, which is not only used to train soon-to-be-doctors, but is also open to the public.

I'll admit, I wasn't too excited the first time I went - in fact I was a little nervous, not exactly wanting to be in a room surrounded by cadavers and gory human tentacles.

I pictured a dark damp room, like the movies, where human bodies would be showcased in frightening postures.

Finally, I built up enough confidence to go one day and experience exactly what it was all about.

It wasn't as freaky as I had imagined... though it was still a little on the scary side!

After paying an entrance fee of 40 Thai Baht you can then enter the museum.

Unlike the dark damp room I had imagined, it was well lit and nicely air conditioned - without any smells of death.

The first exhibition I walked through was an overview of the disastrous tsunami that occurred in the south of Thailand in 2004.

The displays showed pictures and there was even a video of the injuries that came about as a result of the catastrophe.

I continued to browse through a number of galleries, some that showcased infant deformations and injuries.

Though still sad and disturbing, the cadavers were preserved in glass-encased containers filled with liquid solution, making the exhibits more comfortable to view.

Some of the infants had passed away while they were still in the womb, tiny fetuses and embryos.

Check out this arm!
Check out this arm! (photo by vmos)

The main human anatomy room in the back of the museum is where things got a little creepier.

It's in this room where you'll find all sorts of ancient and creaky wooden cabinets and glass containers filled with all sorts of interesting body parts, entire bodies, and bones.

While it was amazing to look at a real cross section of a human head, it was also a little scary to look at it for too long (at least for me).

There was also an entire body that was shriveled and dried so you could see the muscles.

Another huge section of the museum was the bones section. This area was the most non-queasy section for me to browse through, and it was very interesting to see the different bones.

Along with many of the bones were detailed descriptions about the injuries they had sustained. Some of the head injuries weren't very pretty.

About 30 minutes in Bangkok's medical museum and I had seen just about all I wanted to see and headed out.

Though it wasn't as cheery as visiting a museum like the three-headed elephant, it was a very educational and worthwhile experience.

If you would like to check out one of Bangkok's lesser-visited museums, and if you're alright with seeing human anatomy up close and personal, you'll really enjoy the Siriraj Medical Museum.

The Scenic Mendoza to Santiago Bus Ride

I may have entered Argentina by plane, but my departure via the scenic bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago (Chile) was worth the extra transit time.

In Mendoza, I bought my bus ticket from Andesmar a few days in advance for just $36.

By comparison, flights cost several hundred dollars, and you miss some of the most beautiful landscapes outside of Patagonia.

Breathtaking scenery on the bus from Mendoza to Santiago
Breathtaking scenery on the ride from Mendoza to the Argentina-Chile border

The bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago lasted about seven hours, including the time it took to pass through Argentina and Chilean Immigration.

The highway passes by Puenta del Inca, but this natural geologic bridge can't be viewed from the bus. My photo in this article was taken a few days earlier on a separate tour.

Another point of interest you can see from the bus if only for a few seconds, is Aconcagua, South America's tallest mountain at 22,837 feet (6,960 meters).

I lucked out in that it was a beautiful, clear day. Thanks to the GPS on my iPhone, I snapped a photo of the cloud-shrouded peak as we passed it by.

A small complex of blue-roofed buildings offers space for corporate retreats far from the nearest city.
A small complex of blue-roofed buildings offers space for corporate retreats far from the nearest city.
The landscape looks more like Mars than Earth on the bus ride from Mendoza, Argentina, to Santiago, Chile.
At times, the landscape looks more like Mars than Earth. An old railway line can be seen running alongside the road.
A ski resort nestled in a valley awaits the winter snow.
A ski resort nestled in a valley awaits the winter snow.
The Puente del Inca is a natural geologic bridge once used by the Incas to cross the river.
The Puente del Inca is a natural geologic bridge once used by the Incas to cross the river. In modern times, a spa was built under it to take advantage of the natural hot springs.
At 22,837 feet (6,960 meters), Aconcagua is South America's tallest mountain and the tallest peak in both the Western and Southern hemispheres.
At 22,837 feet (6,960 meters), Aconcagua is South America's tallest mountain and the tallest peak in both the Western and Southern hemispheres.
An avalanche warning sign on the road through the Argentina-Chile border.
An avalanche warning sign on the road through the Argentina-Chile border.
Looking backward at the mountain road, some sections are covered by a cement roof to protect against avalanches.
Looking backward at the mountain road, some sections are covered by a cement roof to protect against avalanches.
Our bus outside the Chilean immigration office, which has the distinct appearance of a ski chalet.
Our bus parked outside the Chilean immigration office, which has the distinct appearance of a ski chalet.
A hairpin turn on the bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago.
One of many hairpin turns on the steep descent from the border crossing.
A long series of hairpin turns lead down the mountain in Chile.
A long series of hairpin turns lead down the mountain.
A closer look at those turns!
A closer look at those turns!
The remainder of the bus ride to Santiago isn't nearly as exciting. As the highway leads you to lower altitudes, the landscapes are mostly dry and scrubby. In this photo, you can see a red train crossing the mountain's lower section.
The remainder of the bus ride to Santiago isn't nearly as exciting. As the highway leads you to lower altitudes, the landscapes are mostly dry and scrubby. In this photo, you can see a red train crossing the mountain's lower section.

Mexico Ancient Civilizations Tour with G Adventures

Later this month, I'm leaving Colombia to discover Mexico's food, beaches, and ancient civilizations with G Adventures. A little over one year ago, I first had the opportunity to travel with G Adventures in Patagonia.

The experience surpassed my expectations in every way, from our friendly mountain guide, Christian, and the nightly feasts of Patagonian lamb and king crab to the breathtaking scenery and optional activities like ice climbing.

Playa del Carmen
Playa del Carmen

When you factor in airfare, Patagonia is one of the more costly regions of Latin America to visit. By contrast, Mexico remains one of the cheapest, most easily accessible destinations in North America.

The two-week itinerary below hits all the hot spots from Mexico City to Playa del Carmen on the Mayan Riviera. There are so many optional activities in each city that I won't even try to list them all.

Mexico Ancient Civilizations

It was last year that two of G Adventures' Wanders in Residence, Daniel and Audrey of Uncornered Market, sold me on Oaxaca through their vivid Instagram photos of food and daily life. Add to that Playa del Carmen's massive appeal as a hotspot for digital nomads, and I could no longer delay visiting Mexico.

Last weekend, while researching which UNESCO World Heritage Sites I've visited so far, I found that I may be able to see as many as six new sites on this 15-day tour alone.

  • Historic Centre of Mexico City and Xochimilco
  • Historic Centre of Puebla
  • Historic Centre of Oaxaca and Archaeological Site of Monte Albán
  • Prehistoric Caves of Yagul and Mitla in the Central Valley of Oaxaca
  • Pre-Hispanic City and National Park of Palenque
  • Pre-Hispanic City of Chichen-Itza

As always, I'll provide live coverage of the trip through Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram and follow up with articles on Go Backpacking and the G Adventures blog. Expect lots of food photos as I delve into one of my favorite world cuisines!

I'll be arriving in Mexico a week early to visit friends in Puerto Vallarta, and after the tour, I'll spend an extra two weeks exploring Playa del Carmen and the region on my own.

Jaipur: The Pink City

Hawa Mahal
Hawa Mahal

[T]he city of Jaipur, located in the famous Indian state of Rajasthan, is one of the most popular cities to visit in North India.

The "Pink City," as it's nicknamed, offers numerous attractions and a glimpse into Rajasthani Indian culture.

We'll begin our tour of Jaipur right in the center of the town. The most famous landmark of the city is the Hawa Mahal, a building that's known for its five story wall filled with 953 small windows.

The palace represents a beehive and it was designed for a breeze to flow through.

Once you're inside the main entrance of the Hawa Mahal (on the opposite side), you can climb around the palace, walk around each level, and even climb to the very top to have a look out the window.

Jantar Mantar
Jantar Mantar

Next to the Hawa Mahal is Jaipur's Jantar Mantar, a compound filled with a variety of instruments that were specifically designed for astronomy research.

Among the many objects, some were used to track the cycles of stars and planets, and others were used to tell the time.

Due to the complexity of this UNESCO World Heritage sight,  if you visit Jantar Mantar, it's best to either hire a guide from the entrance, or to rent the self audio tour to make sense of all the complicated instruments.

City Palace
City Palace

The City Palace in Jaipur was formerly the capital of the state of Rajasthan.

Now the palace is a museum where you can walk around the complex and see the many different exhibitions occupying various halls.

The intricately painted wall murals in the inner courtyard are very impressive with colorful patterns etched into the doorways.

You can also see the world's largest sterling silver vessels which were used to hold and transport holy water from the Ganges river for Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II.

Albert Hall
Albert Hall

Just outside the old city walls is the Albert Hall Museum, which is the national state museum of Rajasthan.

Though the collection at the City Palace is more extensive, if you do enjoy museums, it's worth a visit.

Inside you'll find lots of paintings, ceramics, and a good collection of weapons and arms.

Tiger Fort
Tiger Fort

Though the fort is not overly well-preserved, it's the view that's the main attraction at the Nahargarh Fort.

You can either take a taxi, or you can choose to hike to the top of the hill which takes a bout 30 minutes. At the top you'll get a great view of the Pink City.

Amber Fort
Amber Fort

Located about 11 kilometers from the Pink City is the Amber Fort, an attraction that just about all tourists who visit Jaipur come to see. From the road, overlooking the lake and surrounded by rolling hills you'll see the mighty fortress.

It's interesting to notice the differences between the Rajasthani built Amber fort and the Mughal constructed Agra Fort. Both very impressive but designed in different styles.

Since the fort is perched on a small hill you can either walk to the top, or for a small price you can ride an elephant.

Each day, the elephants are brightly painted in beautiful Rajasthani designs.

Jal Mahal
Jal Mahal

Finally, in-between the center of Jaipur and the Amber Fort is the Jal Mahal, the palace that's famous for being half-submerged in Man Sagar Lake.

Though you can just see it from the shore, you can also take a Rajasthani boat to the palace to get a better look.

Jaipur is a fascinating city in India and a great place to begin your adventures in Rajasthan.

The city offers numerous world-class attractions, a wealth of history, and many interesting places to explore.

Scenes from Cordoba, Argentina

The multi-colored entrance to Igelisa del Sagrado Corazon
The multi-colored entrance to Igelisa del Sagrado Corazon

[S]mack dab in the middle of Argentina, lies the university town of Cordoba.

Unlike Rosario, it was immediately apparent there's a lot to do in Cordoba, beyond a day trip to visit the childhood home of Che Guevara in nearby Alta Gracia.

For starters, Argentina's second largest city features the Jesuit Block, which is made up of historic churches, as well as university buildings and residences. In 2000, the Jesuit Block was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Being that it's a city filled with college students from all over Argentina, there's a palpable sense of youth culture present, in addition to all the restaurants, bars, and dance clubs that cater to students.

Add to that dozens of museums and parks, and it felt like a very livable city. If I were to return to live in Argentina, I'd pick Cordoba over Buenos Aires.

Facade of Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon
Facade of Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon

The gargoyles and flying buttresses of Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon (Church of the Sacred Heart)
The gargoyles and flying buttresses of Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon (Church of the Sacred Heart)

Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus (1645-1654)
Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus (1645-1654)

Iglesia Catedral (1694)
Iglesia Catedral (1694)

Detail of the Catherdal's dome
Detail of the Catherdal's dome

Plaza opposite the Cathedral
Plaza opposite the Cathedral

Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Emilio E. Carrafa
Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Emilio E. Carrafa

Circle sculpture installation to celebrate Argentina's bicentennial in 2010. Each circle is engraved with a notable event from the city's history, and now, lots of graffiti too.
Circle sculpture installation to celebrate Argentina's bicentennial in 2010. Each circle is engraved with a notable event from the city's history, and now, lots of graffiti too.

Ernesto "Che" Guevara poster
Ernesto "Che" Guevara's image is alive and well in Cordoba

Dance clubs line the streets near the universities
Dance clubs line the streets near the universities

One of the bars inside Central, an upscale lounge and restaurant
One of the bars inside Central, an upscale lounge and restaurant where I grabbed sushi for dinner one night

Fernet and Coke
Fernet and Coke, a popular mixed drink in Argentina that tastes like cough syrup. I forced myself to give it a try in Cordoba, before I left the country.

Entrance to Galeria San Placido
Entrance to Galeria San Placido

Lots of little outdoor cafes, shops, and art galleries are waiting to be discovered
Lots of little outdoor cafes, shops, and art galleries are waiting to be discovered

If you have to pick a place to live in Argentina for a year, which city would you choose? Why?

Panama Canal: Day Trip to the Miraflores Locks

The Panama Canal has been called one of the wonders of the modern world, and it's hard to argue that it isn't one of the greatest engineering feats of all time. It probably ranks behind the Pyramids of Giza and ahead of whatever ridiculous project the bored oil barons in Dubai are working on this week.

Panama Canal Sign
Obligatory Panama Canal tourist pose

Consider some of the following statistics, and then consider what a pain in the ass it must have been to sail around the tip of South America if building the canal was considered a time saver.

The Panama Canal is 48 miles long and cost the U.S. $375 million. And that's after the U.S. took over for the French, who had been working on it for years.

Seventy-five thousand people worked on the canal, with 40,000 employed at the peak of construction. Five thousand six hundred nine workers died, and 204,900,000 cubic meters were excavated during the construction.

See also: Backpacking Panama: A Two-Week Itinerary

Canal slaves
A depiction of the workers

Needless to say, it was a big project. It was also a big labor draw since the work was done under a cushy government contract, and pay was high.

Still, the workers were living in swamps and jungles, fighting diseases and landslides. It was not easy. Thankfully, today you can visit the canal, specifically the famous Miraflores Locks, and you don't have to get a job as a deckhand on some frigate to do it.

You can spend a day at the visitor's center, see the boats pass, tour a museum, and have a pretty phenomenal meal. And it's all just a few minutes from Panama City.

Maratime traffic control
Calling all the shots

It's also pretty cheap. There are different rates for residents of Panama and tourists, but foreigners still only have to pay $8 for access to the various exhibitions and observation decks.

Miraflores Locks
The observation deck

The main observation deck has stadium seating, and you get to sit right above the locks as one of the ships passes through the locks.

There are two sets of locks at either end of the canal, each with three chambers. They are the mechanism by which ships are raised above sea level to Gatun Lake and then lowered back down to sea level after passing through it. (And you thought the canal was just one big ditch, didn't you?)

The locks are pretty cool to watch, and a bilingual announcer gives a play-by-play over the loudspeaker as the locks fill and empty and the ships pass through. Although it's not exactly exciting to watch the space shuttle launch, it is an engineering marvel in action.

Amazingly, the system used now is fundamentally the same one used to move ships from the Atlantic to the Pacific (and vice versa) when the Canal opened in 1914.

See also: Incredible Things To Do in Panama

Bored at Panama Canal
I wouldn't be checking my phone if this were a space shuttle launch

There's also just an incredible volume of water used to fill and empty the locks: 52 million gallons of freshwater are used in every transit. There are also some very cool exhibitions on the canal's history and the day-to-day lives of the people who built it.

Panama Canal Museum
Huddled with others inside the museum

But what is really cool about the canals is the Miraflores Restaurant, located on the facility's roof. Frommers has ranked it as one of the five best dining experiences in Panama, and I agree with them.

It's a little pricey, but I mean, look at the view. There are terrific views of not only the canal but Panama City as well, and the buffet was incredible.

See also: Discovering the San Blas Islands

Panama Canal Buffet
The first plate of many

The restaurant is open until eleven at night, and it's the night views you want to catch. The line of ships waiting to make the journey to the canal is stretched out into the ocean, their lights forming a kind of oceanic constellation.

You can watch all of this while enjoying some top-of-the-line Panamanian food. I bet you can't get that at a space shuttle launch.

Why Flight Prices Change, According to Flightfox Co-Founder

Editor's Note: After Flightfox saved me money on my recent flights from Medellin to Puerto Vallarta, I chatted with Lauren, the co-founder. She offered to help demystify why airline prices can fluctuate so wildly.

If you want to pay less for flights, it's important to understand the drivers of flight pricing. In this post, I investigate why prices change so often and how to ensure you get the best deal.

Load Factor

Airlines want one thing: to maximize profit by filling their planes. To measure whether a plane is full, airlines calculate its Load Factor.

Load Factor LF = Revenue Passenger Miles ÷ Available Seat Miles

This calculates the percentage of purchased seats on a flight. A 747 typically has 300 to 400 seats. If 200 out of 300 seats are sold, the load factor is 67%. Notice that award flights (flights purchased using frequent flyer miles) are not counted because they generally don't produce revenue.

Airlines tend to manage Load Factor by changing the types of tickets available. If the Load Factor is low and demand is low, an airline will increase the availability of cheaper fares. If the Load Factor is high and demand is high, the airline will reduce the availability of cheaper fares.

Fare Buckets

We all know about the economy, business, and first-class fares. But did you know there are many buckets within these? This is why your neighbor may have paid hundreds more (or less) for the same flight.

Let's take a look at a Sydney SYD to Los Angeles LAX flight on a Qantas Boeing 747. The following fare buckets all have different prices. They also have different restrictions and earn frequent flyer miles at different rates.

Business: J, C, D, I, U (5 in total)

Premium Economy: W, R, T, Z (4 in total)

Economy: Y, B, H, K, M, L, V, S, N, Q, O, G, X, E (14 in total)

Most airlines make their flights available to book 300-330 days before the departure date. At that time, they'll offer tickets in various buckets.

If you get in early, you can book the cheapest buckets available. As departure approaches, cheaper buckets sell out, which is why prices increase so often.

A great example is a recent "Business Class RTW" contest on Flightfox. By using only the cheapest business class fare buckets, the winner (Xavier) built an itinerary for less than it would usually cost in economy.

Xavier's business-class itinerary to six continents cost only $2,569! Typically, RTW to six continents in business class is over $10,000-even simple international round-trips in business cost twice this much.

Revenue Management

We've learned that airlines aim to maximize Load Factor by managing the availability of different fare buckets. But what influences their decision to change the availability of cheaper fare buckets?

Airlines consider the following in managing their revenue:

  • Current Load Factor
  • Other airlines' prices on the same route
  • Time to departure and opportunity risk
  • Input costs, such as fuel, labor, and more
  • Special events and holiday periods
  • Historical pricing trends

As we approach the departure date, the Load Factor is usually high, so airlines restrict cheaper fare buckets to maximize revenue.

If a competitor is charging less, they may increase availability of medium-priced buckets, but don't expect too much discounting. Airlines would rather have a few empty seats than create a long-term price war.

Ensuring the Best Prices

Quite simply, it pays to book early or be flexible.

By booking as far in advance as you can, you'll have access to the cheapest fare buckets. Sure, the airline may put on a sale later, but you can't rely on this happening. That's why Flightfox experts often suggest booking early.

Otherwise, a lot can be done to find a great fare if you're flexible with your destination and/or dates. This involves experts using industry tools to find similar flights with the cheapest buckets.

In some cases, this may involve longer flights or more stops, but in many cases, it can uncover more convenient or adventurous routes. Happy travels :)

________

About the Author: Lauren McLeod is one of the co-founders of Flightfox. Like everyone on the Flightfox team, Lauren is an adventurer at heart. She was among the first women to cross Mongolia's Gobi Desert entirely on foot over 1,000 miles and 52 days.

Photos Essay: The Incredible Agra Fort

Agra Fort
Agra Fort

[T]he Taj Mahal is majestic, but Agra's slightly lesser known attraction, the Agra Fort, in my opinion is equally if not more impressive to witness.

A couple years ago, Dave visited Agra, so I'll just share a few of my favorite photos of the Agra Fort from my recent vist.

Jahangiri Mahal
Jahangiri Mahal

As soon as you enter the fort, which is actually an entire walled in city, you'll notice the outstanding preservation and design of the structures.

The Jahangiri Mahal is one of the landmark buildings within the fort.

Carvings in the red sandstone
Carvings in the red sandstone

While I love to look at historical buildings and architecture from a distance, it's also nice to see close up detail, and there's no shortage of magnificent detail on the walls and decorations of the fort.

View of the Taj Mahal from the window
View of the Taj Mahal from the window

The Taj Mahal is only a few kilometers from Agra Fort, so looking through the windows or from the verandas you can get a great view.

Agra Fort in India
Agra Fort in India

One of my favorite rooms was this octagonal look-out room that was surrounded by Mughal arches and full wall sized windows which are covered with latticework carved from marble.

A room of pure marble
A room of pure marble

The Agra Fort is constructed mainly of red sandstone and white marble. The carved marble halls are amazing, incredible displays of Mughal Islamic architecture and artwork.

Diwan-i-Khas, Red Fort
Diwan-i-Khas, Red Fort

Again, there's a great view of the Taj Mahal from this section of the Diwan-i-Khas, a part of the fort that was the hall used for private royal guests.

Private marble mosque
Private marble mosque

Within the walls of the fort is a small private mosque, called the Nagina Masjid, and built from pure marble. It is very small, yet the craftsmanship and design are extraordinary.

Diwan-i-Am
Diwan-i-Am

Finally, at the front of the fort is the Diwan-i-Am, a public hall where members of royalty associated with guests and held public discussions.

While Delhi also has a similar Red Fort, I thought the Agra Fort was more awe-inspiring.

When visiting Agra, definitely spend time admiring the Taj Mahal, but ensure you have enough time to thoroughly explore the Agra Fort as well.

Top 10 Things To Do in Brno (Czech Republic)

I visited Prague during my first backpacking trip to Europe a long time ago. I had a great time, but during my second swing through the Czech Republic last fall, I wanted to go somewhere new.

Brno, Czech Republic
Brno, Czech Republic

Once again, readers came through on Facebook, suggesting I visit Brno, the capital of the Moravia region and the country's second largest city, on my way from Dresden to Vienna.

Knowing nothing of Brno, I arrived to find a compact and endearing old town, with lots of interesting historic sites. Brno was founded over 1,000 years ago.

In one full day of sightseeing, I covered my list of the top ten things to do in Brno. If you have the time, I recommend spreading them out over at least two days. Tourist information is easy to find, and your Brno hostel or hotel may have a free map.

Table of Contents

  • 1. Old Town Hall
  • 2. Cabbage Market
  • 3. Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul
  • 4. Mummies of the Capuchin Crypt
  • 5. Phallic Clock
  • 6. Visit a Brewery
  • 7. Dine on the Local Czech Cuisine
  • 8. Visit the Mendel Museum of Genetics
  • 9. Explore Spilberk Castle
  • 10. Villa Tugendhat

1. Old Town Hall

Old Town Hall
Old Town Hall

The Old Town Hall was the first building of interest I encountered when I set out to explore Brno. It's the oldest secular building in Brno and features an ornate Gothic Gate. The sculpture's interesting feature is the lopsided central tower.

According to legend, this wasn't a design fault-a mason exacting his revenge on a city council that failed to pay him for his work.

2. Cabbage Market

Cabbage Market
Cabbage Market

The city's Cabbage Market is a half block from the Old Town Hall. Every morning, it fills with vendors setting up their stalls to sell fresh vegetables and flowers. If you like perusing food markets, this is good, though it's not very large.

In the center of the square stands a 318-year-old fountain, depicting scenes from Greek mythology.

3. Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul

Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul
Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul

Walk through the Cabbage Market and up Petrov Hill to reach the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul. With its matching spires, it dominates the Brno skyline.

Entrance to the cathedral is free, but you'll have to pay 35 Korunas ($1.75) to visit the towers and crypt. The cathedral doesn't open until 11 AM (or 11:45 AM on Sundays), so it's best to visit a few other sites first.

4. Mummies of the Capuchin Crypt

Capuchin Church and Crypt
Capuchin Church

On the opposite end of the Cabbage Market from the cathedral is the Capuchin Church and Monastery. The side of the church is adorned with Baroque statues, but the cool part about the building lies below ground.

Inside one of the many rooms in the Capuchin Crypt
Inside one of the many rooms in the Capuchin Crypt

Due to the unique soil composition and system of air holes incorporated into the Capuchin Crypt, the bodies of the monks laid to rest there have been amazingly well-preserved.

Yes, the Capuchin Crypt is filled with dozens of mummies, and it's open to the public for 60 Korunas ($3) per person. Walking through the creepy yet sterile crypt was far and away my favorite experience in Brno.

5. Phallic Clock

Postmodern clock, in the shape of a big, black bullet
Postmodern clock, in the shape of a big, black bullet

Located in Freedom Square and built at a cost of 12 million Koruna ($600,000), this giant phallic-shaped granite clock is an odd sight for both locals and tourists.

The symbol of a bullet refers to the 1645 Battle of Brno. If the Swedish didn't capture the city by Noon, they planned to retreat. To trick them, Brno sounded its bells at 11 a.m., an hour early.

Every day at 11 AM, a glass ball descends from the top of the clock to the bottom. Tourists and residents alike can be seen sticking their arms in various holes, hoping to be the lucky one to catch the glass ball that day.

6. Visit a Brewery

Starobrno Brewery
Starobrno Brewery

You can't visit the Czech Republic, the birthplace of beer, without taking the time to enjoy a glass. Starobrno is the traditional city beer, and the brewery, while a bit of a walk from the city center, is a worthy destination.

7. Dine on the Local Czech Cuisine

Young breast of chicken with corn, potato dumplings, and mushroom ragout in cream and semi-sweet South Moravian wine
Young breast of chicken with corn, potato dumplings, and mushroom ragout in cream and semi-sweet South Moravian wine

I didn't have time to check if Starobrno offered brewery tours, nor was I interested in going on one. They're always the same. I did, however, have to eat some lunch, and the Pivovarska restaurant was right there, sharing the same building with the brewery.

The weather was chilly, and the beer garden was all but deserted, but inside, there was a cavernous, three-level restaurant. I quickly found myself seated amongst a cloud of secondhand smoke and retreated to an area void of others.

There, I ordered a succulent chicken breast, served on a bed of potato dumplings, covered in mushroom ragout and cream. It was a decadent dish. The dumplings were soft and fluffy. I need to eat more dumplings.

8. Visit the Mendel Museum of Genetics

Outside the Mendel museum
Outside the Mendel museum

The Mendel Museum of Genetics showcases a permanent exhibit in honor of Gregor Johann Mendel, an Augustinian monk who developed the principles of heredity in 1865. It's a small museum, and honestly, unless you're a genetics buff, I'd save the 60 Korunas ($3) admission fee.

9. Explore Spilberk Castle

One of the many large walls around Spilberk Castle
One of the many large walls around Spilberk Castle

Constructed in the mid-13th century, Spilberk Castle has a long history of being used as a military fortress and prison. Today, it houses the Brno City Museum and features several permanent exhibitions about the castle's history.

View of Brno from Spilberk Castle
View of Brno's cathedral from Spilberk Castle

One of the upsides of traveling around Europe in the Fall is the added colors the leaves give city views, like the ones you have from the walls and parks surrounding Spilberk Castle. For me, these views made the walk up the hill worth the effort.

10. Villa Tugendhat

Villa Tugendhat by Mies van der Rohe (1930)
Villa Tugendhat by Mies van der Rohe, 1930 (photo: Timothy Brown)

Last but not least is Villa Tugendhat, designed by legendary German architect Mies van der Rohe in 1930. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its design, which exemplifies the Bauhaus style.

I wanted to visit, but due to its popularity and the limited number of English tours offered each day, reservations must be made well in advance. At least this can be done easily through their online ticketing system.

While Brno may not be as large or well-known as Prague, it has much to offer tourists and expats.

______

A Global Eurail Pass, courtesy of Eurail.com, made my train travel to/from Brno possible.

Che Guevara's House in Alta Gracia

Che Guevara's house in Alta Gracia
Che Guevara's house in Alta Gracia

Until my visit to Ernesto Che Guevara's house in Alta Gracia, my knowledge of Argentina's most popular Marxist revolutionary was limited to his depiction as a young adult in The Motorcycle Diaries.

I watched the movie in 2011, in which we see Che leave his privileged home and life only to encounter poverty and suffering in South America.

In addition to providing some context for how and why he went on to foster revolution in Cuba, and later Bolivia, it's a terrific travel movie.

Ernesto "Che" Guevara
Ernesto "Che" Guevara

After seeing Patagonia, taking tango lessons in Buenos Aires, and exploring the beaches of Uruguay, I began my overland journey from Buenos Aires to Santiago, Chile.

The next big city en route to Santiago is Cordoba, which is known for its many universities.

It's also the jumping-off point for a visit to the small, nearby town of Alta Gracia, which was where Che Guevara lived as a kid.

Inside Che's house, which now functions as a museum
Inside Che's house, which now functions as a museum

On July 14, 2001, Che's childhood home opened to the public in the form of a museum, housing a collection of his furniture, personal items, family photos, and lots of handwritten letters.

Despite the small size, and the hefty cost of $15 for foreigners to enter it, I valued the fact that it was created within Che's former home.

Going from room to room, you can see how his life progressed, from boy to Marxist rebel.

It was also in this museum that I learned how he died on October 9, 1967.

After success in Cuba, he was attempting to lead a rebellion in Bolivia when he was captured and killed by their army.

Replica of the 1936 Norton motorcycle Che used during one of his trips through South America
Replica of the 1936 Norton motorcycle Che used during one of his trips through South America

Toward the end of my walk through the house, I noticed a few color photos of Fidel Castro and the late Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez.

Both had visited Che Guevara's house in Alta Gracia in 2006. It's probably the only place in the world where I can say I stood in the same place as both those men.

It's a shame the cost of admission is so high, as I know it's enough to dissuade a certain percentage of backpackers from making the trip to Alta Gracia.

While I wouldn't go out of my way to visit Alta Gracia, I believe it's a worthwhile side trip for those planning to pass through Cordoba.

_______

What You Need to Know

How Much:  75 Argentine pesos ($15) for admission. Argentinians only need to pay 15 pesos.

Museum Hours:  9 am to 8 pm, daily

Difficulty:  Easy

Where to Book:  Do it yourself (no organized tour required).

What to Bring:  Camera

The trip from Cordoba to Alta Gracia takes less than an hour each way, and only costs a few bucks. From the Alta Gracia bus station, it's a short 10-minute walk to Che's house, and I picked up the bus to go back just a few blocks from the museum.

Kuala Lumpur's Central Chow Kit Market

Chowkit Market
Chow Kit Market

Kuala Lumpur is one of my favorite large cities in Asia. The skyline is impressive, including the mega twin Petronas Towers and the towering Menara KL.

I also love the tropical greenery, which is nicely evident along the sides of the streets and within lush public parks.

And while the entire city is quite pleasant, nothing makes me more excited about a trip to Kuala Lumpur than the thought of the outstanding realm of Malaysian food to consume.

Nasi lemak, coconut-infused rice topped with a variety of flavorful curries, a wide range of Indian food, and plenty of authentic Chinese restaurant choices all add to the smorgasbord.

While I love to eat in Kuala Lumpur, I also love to walk around fresh markets and see the ingredients that are used to prepare the local cuisine.

Chow Kit is an area in Kuala Lumpur that's mainly known for being home of one of the city's largest fresh wet markets. A bounty of colorful fresh ingredients fill the narrow aisles of the market each day.

Stink beans
Stink beans

One of my favorite things in the world to eat is something known in English as stink beans (in Malay they are known as petai and in Thai as sataw). These green, pinto beans sized, beans come housed in long pods that grow from huge trees.

They didn't get their name for nothing, sure they do have a pungent aroma to them, but when cooked in a curry, or even just eaten raw, the stink bean is indeed one of my favorites things to eat in the world.

Chow Kit market happens to be packed with stink beans!

Fish vendor at Chow Kit market
Fish vendor at Chow Kit market

As for protein, fish, goats, chickens, and and cows are all widely represented.

While pork is frequently eaten, especially by the Chinese communities in Kuala Lumpur, this markets mainly caters to to a Muslim majority, so pork is not as available.

The wonderful supply of fresh fish, prawns, squid, and octopus makes Malaysia another wonderful seafood lovers' paradise.

Fuit
Fruit

Finally, as I've already mentioned about Kota Kinabalu market (located in Malaysia but on the island of Borneo), Malaysia is a land that's seriously blessed by its supply of fresh fruit.

All sorts of tropical fruits are available in large quantities. If you're a fruit lover, you'll be salivating at the selection of delicious sweet looking fruit at Chow Kit.

Chow Kit Market
Chow Kit Market

As much as I love eating at restaurants and street stalls when I visit any city, I also love to wander around local markets to get a behind-the-scenes glimpse at where the fresh ingredients are coming from.

It's incredible to see all the things that go into the food we eat.

On a quick side note: Some local Malaysians have warned me that Chow Kit is regarded as not the safest area of the city, apparently crime has been on the rise in the area. That being said, it's still a wonderful place to visit, but going with a few friends during the daylight hours is a good idea.

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Dave at Ahu Ko Te Riku on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile.

Hi, I'm Dave

Editor in Chief

I've been writing about adventure travel on Go Backpacking since 2007. I've visited 68 countries.

Read more about Dave.

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