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The Importance Of Hiring A Good Tuk-Tuk Driver In Thailand

Tuk Tuk driver in Thailand
Tuk-tuk driver in Thailand

[M]y slouched body slides from side to side in the tuk-tuk as Auddie, my driver, whirls around corners, cuts across parking lots and goes the wrong way down one-way streets to get to me to my destination in Chiang Mai, Thailand on time.

Auddie grins broadly at me, looking back at me. I wish he would keep his eyes on the road!

Traffic darts head-on at us, but Auddie is not concerned. He knows these roads better than anyone and he has become my Hoke from Driving Miss Daisy.

Auddie was my first friend when I moved to Chiang Mai. He was the security man at my condo, and he proudly let me know he also had a tuk-tuk and would take me anywhere I needed to go in Chiang Mai for the local price of 50 baht.

He would often leave his post of security card to rush across town to pick me up somewhere and laugh as he told me that he left a note for his boss that he went out for smokes.

This is how the Thai people are. Hardworking. Crafty entrepreneurs. They are often juggling two or three jobs at once.

Inside a tuk tuk
Inside a tuk-tuk

Auddie is a perfect example of why it's important to hire a good tuk-tuk driver for your local tours in Thailand.

He has shown me the hidden and local spots of Chiang Mai, the places I wouldn't have known to visit on my own. And he has charged me a fair price to do so.

Khao Soi
Khao soi

The first weekend I met him, I asked him to take me for khao soi, that bubbling, coconut curry soup that Thailand is famous for. He told me he would take me to where the locals go, not the tourists, and I swear I heard his stomach growl.

We wound through the remote countryside where there were no tourists, only signs of local life.

Old women with weathered lines adorning their faces waved from their market stalls. Children played with sticks in the streets and I let myself sink into the potholes of the dusty streets only to be shot right up again.

Sankampaeng Hot Springs
Sankampaeng Hot Springs

Auddie took me to the Thai people's favorite, Khao Soi Lam Duan Fah Ham. It was the best khao soi I've ever had, and a place I wouldn't have found if it wasn't for him.

The next weekend he took me to see one of his favorite spots, the Sankampaeng Hot Springs.

We raced through some of the most stunning countryside I've ever seen. Rice fields and village life led the way to this magical spot.

His excitement was contagious, as he showed me the Thai way of eating eggs boiled right in the hot springs.

I soaked my feet in the bubbling waters, letting my cares and worries wash away.

Sankampaeng Hot Springs

Auddie is one of the rare tuk-tuk drivers who puts the experiences of his customers before his need to make money.

He loves his country and his enthusiasm for it shows.

Whether he's showing me the hidden waterfalls, markets, or street stalls, he has helped me to fall in love with Chiang Mai, Thailand just a little bit more.

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This post was brought to you by Withlocals.com.

Favorite Peruvian Dishes

Picking Peruvian food as the best in Latin America makes for an easy decision.

How can it not? There's causa and ceviche, chupe de camarones and trucha rellena, alpaca and more.

The challenging part is picking my favorite Peruvian dishes. But somebody has to make these tough decisions, so here we go, my favorites, after traveling for nearly a month in Perú.

Alpaca is my favorite Peruvian dish.
Alpaca is my favorite Peruvian dish

Table of Contents

  • 1. Alpaca
  • 2. Chupe de Camarones
  • 3. Ceviche
  • 4. Trucha Rellena
  • 5. Arroz con Pollo
  • Honorable Mentions

1. Alpaca

I made a little joke during my first post on Perú involving alpaca, something I'm happy the folks at PETA didn't see. Or maybe it would have been fun if they had. Yeah, maybe so.

It is some of the tastiest, most tender meat you could ever eat.

When people think of Cusco, they often think of it as the gateway to Machu Picchu, and it is; it most certainly is. I loved finally seeing some of the most famous ruins in the world.

But I'll never forget the half-dozen times I ate alpaca, especially the meal for 48 soles (about $17) at Uchu, a classy restaurant that served the meat on two kabobs and atop a hot brick, where you could leave it for a while if you wanted it well-done.

But I didn't, so I removed the meat immediately and ate it the way I liked it, medium-rare. Try it sometime. I think you'll like it.

See also: 10 Best Restaurants in Lima

Everyone told me I had to try the chupe de camarones in Arequipa. So I did.
Everyone told me I had to try the chupe de camarones in Arequipa. So I did.

2. Chupe de Camarones

I almost made this my favorite. This soup is filled with rice, seafood, and vegetables; the prawns are the part that stands out the most. It is one of the most popular dishes in Arequipa.

The picture above is of a half order, something I shared with a new friend, a dish that cost us 45 soles (about $16), and come to think of it, I still owe him five soles because I didn't have small money on that day.

So I paid $8 for a bowl of delicious soup, Peru's version of gumbo, and I was full. And happy.

The sweet potato was a nice compliment to the tangy and spicy ceviche.
The sweet potato was a nice compliment to the tangy and spicy ceviche.

3. Ceviche

It had to make an appearance on this list, right? I appreciated what I ate in Perú when I recently ordered the ceviche at a restaurant near Parque de Los Pies Descalzos in Medellín, Colombia. It wasn't very good.

It's an art to make a ceviche with the right mix of lime juice and spices, the perfect balance of seafood and onions, and there are places in Medellín that succeed at it.

I still like what I ate in Perú better. I liked the ceviche that came with sweet potato for 24 soles (a little more than $8). I wanted to eat there again before leaving Lima, but I ran out of time.

If you're in the mountains, trout is a good option. Stuffed trout is better.
Trout is a good option if you're in the mountains, and stuffed trout is better.

4. Trucha Rellena

I wandered around Cusco one night, searching for a restaurant with no gringo clients, a place to take a break from the onslaught of tourists you encounter in such a destination city. I thought I found one.

I saw stuffed trout on the menu and liked the description, an entire fish, albeit a small one, but filled with broccoli, cheese, and red peppers, cooked in white wine with a touch of mint. I paid 27 soles, or about $10.

Potatoes with huancaina sauce and rice accompanied the trout, and it was so good; the gringos that walked in and ruined my mission to pick a place with no tourists were not able to ruin my meal.

No country makes a better arroz con pollo than Perú.
No country makes a better arroz con pollo than Perú

5. Arroz con Pollo

A handful of countries offer arroz con pollo…Colombia, Cuba, Nicaragua, Spain, and more. Peruvians do it the best.

I love the green tinge on the rice, how the chicken breast is cooked until the skin is crispy but the meat is moist, and how it goes so well together.

I had it in Lima for 25 soles (about $9), and it convinced me of something, of a mistake I had made when I picked my favorite Peruvian restaurant in a story I wrote for another blog.

It was not the one I thought of as I ate arroz con pollo on my vacation, and for a few moments, I was embarrassed.

It's not in the Top 5, but I bet arroz con mariscos is a favorite for a lot of people.
It's not in the Top 5, but I bet arroz con mariscos is a favorite for many people.

Honorable Mentions

Arroz con Mariscos

I almost made this No. 5, but the chicken is prepared too perfectly to top the seafood variety of this dish.

It doesn't matter. Both are good, and you'll leave the restaurant satisfied no matter your choice.

I ate the rice and seafood plate for 32 soles (about $11) after watching Colombia's first match in the 2014 World Cup when it beat Greece 3-0. I guess you could say it was a celebration dish.

I had never eaten such a wide variety of causa with one dish.
I had never eaten such a wide variety of causa in one dish

Causa

The first time I ate this, I thought of mashed potatoes. Causa features them cold and stuffed or topped with meat and vegetables, usually chicken or tuna with tomatoes.

I was lucky to find a place that offered something a little fancier, a plate with four types of causa, one with chicken, another with ceviche-style onions and tomatoes, another with ceviche-style tilapia, and the last with fried shrimp.

I had difficulty finishing the plate, so I didn't mind spending 40 soles (about $14) or the average service. Although it was only 4 p.m., I knew it would be my last meal of the day.

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Lima Travel Guide

Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is now available for Kindle.

Heavenly Days in North Carolina’s High Altitudes

Mt. Mitchell
Mt. Mitchell (photo: twbuckner)

If you’ve never spent time in lovely NC, any number of things may come to mind when you think of the state.

Barbeque? College athletics? Bluegrass? Yes, we’ve got all of these things, but the reality of life in this most florid Southern state is much more nuanced.

In fact, North Carolina is a vacationer’s paradise, particularly if you enjoy mountains, forests, and the activities therein.

North Carolina has its lowlands, but we’re going to focus on two of its loveliest mountain communities, Asheville and Boone.

Boone

Located right along the Appalachian trail, with an elevation of 3,333 ft, Boone is a paradise in the sky.

North Carolina’s highest peak and the highest peak east of the Mississippi River, Mount Mitchell, and Grandfather Mountain State Park are nearby.

The town of Boone itself is small, vibrant, and peaceful. It has been recognized as one of the top 10 places in the US to retire.

Whether you are retiring from a career or just from a long day of outdoor adventure, Boone is fully equipped, just minutes from Outdoor Traveler Destinations’ finest accommodations.

Boone is one of those special places, artistic and alive with culture, but unspoiled by tourist-traps and unsightly development.

Truly one of North Carolina’s best mountain treasures to discover.

Looking Glass Falls
Looking Glass Falls in Pisgah National Forest (photo: Jeff Gunn)

Asheville

This little town is famous now, drawing notable personalities from Zach Galifianakis to Tim Burton to President Barack Obama!

The Commander-in-Chief famously frequents 12 Bones Smokehouse in Asheville’s River Arts District, just seconds away from beauteous river hiking and fishing opportunities.

Asheville’s downtown area resembles a very small city plopped down in the midst of mountains.

And that’s exactly what it is. But get out-of-town a couple of miles, and the wilderness opens up to you.

Beginner-friendly hikes like Craggy Gardens reward nature lovers of all experience levels, while more challenging trails like Grandfather Mountain are better left to the experts.

With more than 50 waterfalls available to see on hikes in the area, and hundreds of trails and climbing vistas, the outdoor adventurer can find enough to do outside to fill a lifetime.

Enjoy the splendid climate climbing, rafting, or reclining. But don’t forget to come back into town for some of the best food available on this side of the country.

The aforementioned Smokehouse is a must, but there’s plenty of other options to be had in this town’s thriving food scene.

Grab a pint at any of the dozens of local breweries. Have a cup of coffee at one of the best cafes in the state. The choices are endless in Asheville.

The state of North Carolina is varied in its geography, climate, and culture. But for mountain-lovers, the state has some of the best destinations to offer.

Asheville and Boone are but two of the state’s greatest spots for adventure and respite.

Spend as much time as your can afford to soak up all of the natural bounty and cultural loveliness that make these communities so special. You’ll want to return, or never leave.

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This post was brought to you by Outdoor Traveler Destinations.

Birth of an Independent Traveler

It wasn't by design, but Italy is the country I'll forever associate with my birth as an independent traveler.

I'd arrived in Europe with my best friends from college on one last adventure before we'd have to face the real world.

After brief stays in Paris, Amsterdam, and Prague, we arrived in Venice, a city I fell in love with upon exiting the train station onto the Grand Canal.

The Venice train station
The Venice train station

My friends didn't share my enthusiasm, and we left a few days later. Tension in the group had been growing from the moment we'd arrived in Europe.

I knew what I wanted to see and do in every city and was baffled by friends who didn't share those same interests.

The breaking point came in Florence, where my friends decided to return to the United States more than a month early.

I chose to stay -- an empowering decision in my early twenties that has continued to help shape life in my thirties.

Contiki, a leader in vacations for 18 to 35-year-olds, recognizes the value such an experience or trip can hold and is sharing life-changing stories like mine. Check out their site to view legendary Contiki stories. 

Sunset over the Venetian Lagoon
Sunset over the Venetian Lagoon

Once I'd said goodbye to my friends, and they departed the hostel to make their way back to Paris for their return flights, I was left alone to take stock of the situation. But not for long.

Another backpacker arrived in my room, and before I knew it, we were talking about music.

I realized I wasn't going to be alone after all. As long as I continued to stay in hostels, I'd encounter a neverending stream of young travelers out discovering the world like me.

Under my newfound freedom to do whatever I wanted, my first order of business was to hop a train back to Venice.

Any city that inspires me to call my mom from a payphone and proclaim I want to live there deserves more of my time.

Gondolas, vaporettos (water buses) and assorted boats make it easy for independent travelers to get around Venice.
Gondolas, vaporettos (water buses), and assorted boats

Upon my return, I took a dorm bed under the rafters of a pension, where I met other travelers with whom to drink cheap wine and soak up the old-world charms of Venice's canals and hidden alleyways.

I left Venice for Rome a few nights later, followed by Nice, Paris, Dover, London, and two weeks tooling around Ireland in a clockwise direction.

I returned home from my two months in Europe as a changed man. I'd tasted the exhilaration of traveling to foreign lands with nothing but a backpack and a bank balance to deplete.

St. Mark's Square
St. Mark's Square

Four years later, with a few more trips to my name, I lost my job at a dot-com company due to a massive layoff.

I used the resulting four months of unemployment to reflect on how little travel I'd done, given my penchant for it after that first summer in Europe.

I decided it was time to prioritize travel, and everything else would feed into taking more trips abroad.

Twelve years and more than fifty countries later, I can look back with outstanding clarity and say I decided to first take a risk and head to Europe with my friends, and second, stay there when they decided to return home; that has made all the difference in my life.

Visiting Venice's Grand Canal as an independent traveler
Posing along Venice's Grand Canal

In 2012, while traveling Eastern Europe by rail, I made it a point to return to Venice for a few nights.

For a city whose architecture and way of life on the water hadn't changed much in 1,000 years, it was safe to say I noticed few changes in the 14 years since I'd been gone.

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This post was brought to you in partnership with Contiki.

Tips for Scuba Diving in Cenotes

Opening to a Cenote in Mexico
Opening to a Cenote in Mexico

If you're vacationing in Cancun or other parts of Mexico along the Riviera Maya, such as Playa del Carmen or Tulum, you're bound to see tours and advertisements for visiting cenotes.

Most cenote visits consist of snorkeling or swimming in a cenote. You can get to them with a Cancun car rental or by paying for a tour.

Since cenotes are deep sinkhole caverns in the earth typically filled with teal hued water and framed by rocks and swinging vines, this will undoubtedly be memorable.

But here's a little secret: scuba diving is the best way to see a cenote. Here's why.

Table of Contents

  • Cenote Scuba Diving Means Fewer Crowds
  • Cenote Serenity and Sights
  • Favorite Cenote Scuba Diving Features
  • Scuba Gear and Guides
  • Getting Scuba Certified in Mexico

Cenote Scuba Diving Means Fewer Crowds

First off, it gets you away from the crowds. If you work with a local divemaster, he or she may know a cenote that is more off the beaten path.

Even if other people are swimming in the cenote when you arrive for your dive, the chances are good that there won't be any other dive groups there.

And you'll find seclusion in the depths of the cenote far below the splashing legs of swimmers and snorkelers.

Cenote Serenity and Sights

Down in the deep part of the cenote, you'll discover a nearly meditative type of quiet.

Away from the people on the surface, you'll find it's just you, your dive partners, and your systematic breathing.

Darkness descends over much of the cenote, and you'll want to bring a flashlight with you to shine on the walls of the cenote and into cracks and fractures.

While some cenotes have underwater life, many are mostly devoid of fish or other sea creatures.

What you'll find instead are underwater stalagmites, stalactites, fossils, and other rock formations, plus an incredible play on light.

The start of rock formations in a cenote.
The start of rock formations in a cenote

Cenotes are often partially covered at the top.

When the sunlight can break through into the water, it results in long streams of shimmering light that reach far into the depths of the clear cenote.

These light beams are delightful to swim in and around.

The water will be highlighted a vibrant blue around these rays of light, and the light itself will act as a delightful kaleidoscope in the water.

Some cenotes have other ethereal aspects as well. Siete Bocas Cenote, where I went scuba diving, has a marine layer located 90 feet below the surface.

If you've ever wondered what it might feel like to float on a cloud, this natural phenomenon may be your closest chance of discovering the feeling.

Favorite Cenote Scuba Diving Features

The marine layer was the highlight of my own Riviera Maya cenote dive, though I thoroughly enjoyed every moment of the dive.

It was incredibly peaceful, much more so than my other ocean dives where I'm always scanning the water to look for a sea creature, not wanting to miss out on seeing a turtle, eel, or rare fish.

Knowing there wasn't much of anything live to see down in the cenote meant I was more present in simply enjoying the serene, floating aspect of scuba diving.

I could take my time to leisurely explore the rock formations and crevices, while taking in the soothing blue beauty of the water where the light hit it.

The rays of light were also a highlight of the dive, and I spent quite a bit of time lazily drifting among them.

Scuba Gear and Guides

If you're interested in doing a cenote dive, consider hiring a divemaster to take you out.

Even if you're adept at scuba diving without a guide (always dive with a partner, though), a cenote is very different from an open water ocean dive.

For example, the divemaster pointed out that it wasn't good to spend more than five minutes at the marine layer - not just because of the deep water, but because the chemicals that make up that layer consist of nitrogen, which isn't good to be around for too long.

The divemaster also guided my husband and me to the best underwater rock formations, which we might not have found otherwise since it was so dark where the light rays didn't hit, even with our flashlights.

After our dive, he told us what opening of the cenote is fun for cliff jumping, so we ended our excursion with more adventure.

Your divemaster can make it easy on the equipment side of things as well by knowing where to rent reputable dive gear.

To find a divemaster or a place to rent equipment for your dive, check with your hotel or resort.

Chances are, they'll know of a reputable company to recommend.

If where you're staying isn't of help, check out the Riviera Maya section of scubadiving.com.

Exiting the cenote after some apres-scuba cliff jumping.
Exiting the cenote after some apres-scuba cliff jumping

Getting Scuba Certified in Mexico

Want to scuba dive in a cenote, but aren't scuba certified?

You'll be hard-pressed to get a guide or equipment without your open water dive certification, but luckily there are many opportunities to get certified during your vacation in Mexico.

Most resorts have some sort of dive certification program - either onsite or through a partner - in which you can participate.

There are also local dive shops in Cancun and Playa del Carmen that offer certification courses.

For those choosing to stay further away from the crowds, you can take a Cancun to Tulum shuttle to one of the many eco-resorts two hours south of Cancun.

Keep in mind you won't be starting your diving career with a cenote dive.

You'll have to take a written test followed by a pool dive and then several ocean dives.

Once you're certified, which you can usually get done in a week (be prepared to spend a majority of your days dedicated to that), you'll be all set to experience the magical atmosphere of a cenote dive.

Niseko, Japan: A Powder Paradise for Skiers and Snowboarders

Tucked inside the western edge of the Japanese island of Hokkaido, Niseko is a world-renowned powder paradise for skiers and snowboarders alike.

Anticipation for each Winter season starts when the first snows begin to fall atop Mt. Yotei, known as the "Mt. Fuji of Hokkaido."

The snow-covered Mt. Yotei in Niseko, Japan
Mt. Yotei (photo: Andrew K. Smith)

Due to its proximity to Siberia, Niseko benefits from weather patterns bringing cold air across the Sea of Japan, where moisture collects and is later dumped in the form of snow across the region. Lots of snow.

An average of a little over 595 inches (15 meters) per year qualifies Niseko as one of the world's top three snowiest ski resorts.

And it's not only the volume of snow that sets Niseko apart, but it's also the quality too.

With an average Winter temperature of 17.6F (-8C), the snow tends to be dry, champagne powder.

It's this combined reputation for consistent, high-quality snowfall that draws tourists from around the world to a town of no more than 5,000 people in northern Japan.

Niseko - February 2014
Niseko - February 2014 (photo: Perfect Zero)

How to Get There

The closest major city and airport is Sapporo, a two-hour flight from Tokyo or a four-hour flight from Shanghai, China.

Once in Sapporo, it's another two and a half hours by private taxi or coach, or three hours by train, to Niseko.

It's recommended that transfers be booked two weeks in advance, while train tickets can be bought on arrival.

Snowboarding in Niseko
Snowboarder (photo: Andrew K. Smith)

The Niseko Resort

Niseko features 69 runs serviced by 28 lifts and gondolas.

There's a wide variety of terrain to suit everyone's interests, including groomed trails, trees, moguls, and the Hanazono terrain park, featuring a half-pipe and rails.

The lifts operate 12 hours daily, from 8:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Needless to say, with hours like these, night skiing is available.

The All Mountain lift pass provides access to Niseko, plus three additional and interconnected ski areas (known collectively as the Niseko United Area).

A comprehensive range of Winter services are available, including:

  • Ski and snowboard equipment rentals
  • Backcountry/avalanche equipment rentals
  • Private and group ski lessons, plus a special kids program
  • Private backcountry tours
  • Catskiing tours
  • Snowmobile tours
  • Spa services, including oil, hot stone, and shiatsu massages
  • Access to natural 15 hot springs (onsens)
  • Car rentals
  • Assistance in arranging day trips

Accommodations run the gamut from ski-in/out mountain chalets to house rentals, townhouses, apartment rentals, and hotels of all sizes. There's even a Hilton.

And due to the international nature of tourism here, it's possible to find a wide range of American and European cuisines, in addition to Japanese.

Like many ski resorts, when the snow gives way to warmer weather and fresh flowers, Niseko begins to attract a different kind of visitor.

Whitewater rafting, hiking, and golfing are just a few of the many ways one can pass the summer months while waiting for those first snowflakes to fall atop Mt. Yotei, signaling the beginning of a new winter season.

___________

This post was brought to you by Hanazono Niseko.

Top 10 Things To Do in Budapest

Budapest is one of those cities everyone seems to like. Hence, as my Eastern European rail trip continued, I caught a train from rainy Bratislava to the overcast Hungarian capital.

View of Budapest from the Basilica's observation deck
Budapest, as seen from St. Stephen's Basilica.

I budgeted four days to explore things to do in Budapest, which I'd soon come to find was not nearly enough. The city has history, museums, intrigue, and mineral-rich baths.

If you're heading to Budapest, pack some travel insurance, such as the policies offered by Southern Cross Travel Insurance. They'll ensure you're protected in case of an emergency.

Here are my top ten things to do in Budapest, based on the time of year I visited and the number of days I could afford.

Table of Contents

  • Budapest Attractions
    • 1. St. Stephen's Basilica
    • 2. Take a Ride on the Budapest Metro
    • 3. Heroes' Square
    • 4. Museum of Fine Arts
    • 5. House of Terror Museum
    • 6. Coffee at Gerbeaud
    • 7. Walk Across the Chain Bridge
    • 8. Dracula and the Labyrinth of Buda Castle
    • 9. Matthias Church and Fishermen's Bastion
    • 10. Hungary's Parliament Building

Budapest Attractions

1. St. Stephen's Basilica

St. Stephen's Basilica
St. Stephen's Basilica

Inaugurated in 1906, St. Stephen's Basilica (also known as Budapest Cathedral) took more than 50 years to complete and can accommodate 8,500 people.

The church takes its name from the first king of Hungary, whose mummified hand is maintained to this day in a glass case near the altar (something I was unaware of until after my visit).

I love gawking at beautiful interiors, so I often hit up large cathedrals, especially when they provide panoramic city views.

There is an elevator available from April 1st to October 31st. In winter, you'll need to climb the 364 stairs to reach the top. The cost of entry is 500 Hungarian Francs (HUF), or about $2.15.

2. Take a Ride on the Budapest Metro

Budapest metro
Budapest metro

Budapest's metro is the oldest electrified underground system on the European continent, having begun operation in 1896. Only London's metro is older, having opened in 1890.

Line 1 is the original line. It was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002. Lines 2 and 3 were opened in the 1970s, and the latest, Line 4, began operation in 2014.

Tickets are cheap, so give your feet a break and check it out as you travel around the city.

3. Heroes' Square

Visiting Heroes' Square is a must in Budapest, Hungary.
Heroes' Square

In addition to the metro, Heroes' Square was created in 1896 to mark Hungary's 1,000th anniversary. Staring at the monument in the middle, you'll have the Museum of Fine Arts to your left and the Kunsthalle museum to your right.

Behind the monument is City Park, home to the Széchenyi Baths, one of Europe's largest public baths. Given the time of year I was visiting and the grey skies, taking a public bath wasn't high on my "to-do" list, so I pivoted to the left and headed for the Museum of Fine Arts.

4. Museum of Fine Arts

For art lovers, touring the Museum of Fine Arts is one of the top things to do in Budapest.
Museum of Fine Arts

It just so happened the museum was hosting a major Cézanne exhibit, and impressionism is one of my favorite styles.

But before I walked through the temporary exhibit, I covered the permanent collection, coming across some masterpieces like the earliest copy of The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. Though heavily damaged, it was still fascinating to see up close.

I'd previously seen the original in Madrid's Prado Museum during my 2007-2009 around-the-world trip. Additional highlights included a colorful Madonna by Raphael and works by Bruegel, Goya, Monet, and Rodin.

The Museum of Fine Arts, Budapest, is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Tickets to the permanent exhibits cost 1,600 HUF, or about $6.90.

5. House of Terror Museum

Chains outside the House of Terror Museum
House of Terror Museum

Departing the Museum of Fine Arts into the darkness of my first Hungarian night, I looked at my phone and found I still had time to visit a very different kind of museum.

Housed in the same building used as the headquarters of the Nazi party in Hungary, the House of Terror Museum commemorates the victims of the Nazi and Communist Russian regimes in Hungary.

I did not know Hungary's history during this time. Therefore, it was an eye-opening experience to walk through the exhibits and learn how these two movements terrorized the Hungarians.

After touring the museum (which takes about one and a half hours), the final stop is the basement used as a prison. Hundreds, if not thousands, of people were tortured there, and it's hard to pass through such a space without being affected.

The House of Terror is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is 2,000 HUF, or $8.60.

6. Coffee at Gerbeaud

Gerbeaud, a historic cafe in Budapest.
Gerbeaud

If you'll stop for coffee anywhere in Budapest, make it Gerbeaud. Located centrally in the city, it is one of the capital's most significant and historic cafés.

Opened in 1858, it was later expanded by the Swiss owner of the same name when he bought it in 1884. Stepping inside is like stepping back in time. Chandeliers hang from the ceiling, and wood accents and drapes add elegance to the atmosphere. Gerbeaud is open daily from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

7. Walk Across the Chain Bridge

Budapest's iconic Chain Bridge
Chain Bridge

Completed in 1849, Budapest's Chain Bridge was considered an engineering marvel at the time. It was the first bridge to cross the Danube River, connecting Buda and Pest, initially two separate and distinct cities.

Crossing the suspension bridge on foot is a popular tourist activity and offers beautiful views. It only takes a few minutes, and there's a dedicated pedestrian walkway.

On the Pest side, you'll almost immediately arrive at the funicular, which can take you up Castle Hill. There's much to explore up there, so much so that it truly deserves a full day or more of your time.

8. Dracula and the Labyrinth of Buda Castle

Dracula was here
Dracula was here

Beyond the ruins and architecture of Castle Hill, I wanted to see the former prison of Vlad Tepes (aka Vlad the Impaler, or Dracula).

The Labyrinth of Buda Castle is a system of caves running beneath Castle Hill. The network is six miles long, though tourists are limited to walking only a mile of it.

The decorations are cheesy at times, but you do get a feel for how dark and miserable it would've been to be imprisoned there, especially in the 15th century, when the only light would've been from burning torches.

The Labyrinth is open daily from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., costing 2,000 HUF or $8.60.

9. Matthias Church and Fishermen's Bastion

Matthias Church
Matthias Church

Upon emerging from the caves, I wandered over to the 700-year-old Matthias Church, which takes its name from another former Hungarian king.

It's one of the oldest buildings in Budapest, and I was enamored with the restoration work. The exterior was immaculate, and the tiled rooftop was incredibly colorful.

Altarpiece inside Matthias Church
Altarpiece

There's a small fee to enter, but seeing a golden altarpiece surrounded by fine stained glass is worth it. Restoration work was happening inside at the time of my visit.

Fishermen's Bastion
Fishermen's Bastion

Behind Matthias Church is the Fishermen's Bastion. Though the structure is only 100 years old, this area was used as far back as medieval times by fishermen who protected this area of the city.

The best reason to walk here is its commanding city views. You'll see clearly across the Danube into the rest of Budapest.

10. Hungary's Parliament Building

Parliament Building
Parliament Building

From the Fishermen's Bastion, you'll have a direct view of Hungary's Neo-Gothic Parliament building, which is situated along the river. At just over 100 years old, construction was inaugurated on, yes, you guessed it, 1896. Boasting 691 rooms, it's the third-largest parliamentary building in the world.

The following morning, on my way to the train station, I stopped by the Parliament building to take a closer look. A large section was under restoration due to air pollution waging a constant war against the typically white limestone.

As I said, four days were hardly enough to get a feel for Budapest. I missed so much, including the ruin pubs, the nightlife, and the baths, not to mention more museums and historical points of interest. I hope to return in spring someday to get the warm-weather experience.

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UNESCO

Budapest, including the banks of the Danube, the Buda Castle Quarter, and Andrássy Avenue, became a World Heritage Site in 2002.

Click here for the complete list of UNESCO sites Dave has visited during his travels.

__________

This post was brought to you by Southern Cross Travel Insurance.

La Paz, Bolivia in Under 24 Hours

I arrived in Nuestra Señora de La Paz (Our Lady of Peace) with little time to spare.

My journey across South America, from Uruguay through Argentina, Chile, and Bolivia, was drawing to a close.

The time crunch was due to a scheduled trip into the Peruvian Amazon.

La Paz
The author's first view of La Paz, Bolivia

Before leaving the semi-tropical warmth of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, I posted a message on Facebook asking friends what I should see and do during my less than 24 hours in the Bolivian capital of La Paz.

More than one suggested I find a way into San Pedro Prison, an idea I was willing to entertain given I trusted the two friends offering it, but more on that later.

View from my plane upon arrival at El Alto airport in La Paz
View from my plane upon arrival at El Alto airport in La Paz

Table of Contents

  • Flying Into La Paz
  • City Views
  • San Pedro Prison
  • Witches' Market
  • Iglesia de San Francisco
  • Presidential Palace
  • Dinner at La Casona
  • Departing La Paz

Flying Into La Paz

I flew into La Paz's El Alto International Airport (4,061 m / 13,325 ft), the highest international airport and the fifth-highest commercial airport in the world, on Boliviana de Aviacíon, arriving mid-afternoon.

Due to the thinner air at such a high altitude, the runway is much longer than you'd find at a typical airport.

It took a noticeably longer amount of time for us to land.

The brief and inexpensive flight saved me one to two days' worth of bus rides on what I read were terrible roads.

The city of La Paz is located 8 km away from the airport, down in a valley.

The good news is the altitude is slightly less when you're in the city center than at the airport, but given I was coming from Santa Cruz, which was close to sea level, a few hundred meters wouldn't make a big difference to my body.

I knew I had a few hours' worth of adrenaline and energy to work with before the elevation would wear me down.

I acquired a taxi, and we made our way down to the city center.

I had decided to stay at Wild Rover Hostel as it had the highest customer rating on Hostelworld. Unfortunately, that's not saying much.

There are no stand-outs for hostels in La Paz, so despite it being a party hostel, I decided to grin and bear it for a night.

Photo at a scenic outlook, check
Photo at a scenic outlook, check

City Views

I dropped my belongings off in a small dorm room at the Wild Rover. It was time to make the most of the few hours of daylight that were left.

I flagged down another taxi and asked him to head for the scenic outlook point.

My priority was some macro shots of the city as a whole.

View of the soccer stadium
View of the soccer stadium

The lookout point offered precisely the kind of views I was after, and while the skies were overcast, there was still enough light left to get some decent photos.

It was interesting to see how the more modern apartment buildings had been erected around the soccer stadium.

It was one of the wealthier parts of the city.

Park opposite San Pedro Prison
Park opposite San Pedro Prison

San Pedro Prison

Returning to the same taxi, I directed the driver to San Pedro Prison.

He dropped me off in a small, unassuming park across the street, where I didn't quite know what to do with myself.

To read about why I wanted to visit South America's most notorious prison and what happened when I tried that afternoon, check out my review of Marching Powder.

Related: Zanzibar's Prison Island

Dried llama fetuses
Dried llama fetuses

Witches' Market

Drawn by the knowledge that you can find dried llama fetuses there, I headed to the La Paz Witches' Market.

It sounds ominous, but the market is nothing more than a collection of shops selling herbal remedies, and yes, llama fetuses to be used as offerings in religious ceremonies.

"Follow me, follow me" dust.

On the comical side of the product spectrum, these shops also sell what's marketed as a variety of different dusts with magical properties.

The cartoonish imagery and colors on the boxes reminded me of when I was a kid, and you'd see special "x-ray" glasses for sale in the back of Mad Magazine and other such children's magazines.

But, given the amount of money the vitamin and supplement industry is making in the US these days, who am I to question Bolivians' desire to improve sexual function.

Religious, commercial and residential buildings juxtaposed in downtown in La Paz
Religious, commercial, and residential buildings juxtaposed in downtown La Paz

Iglesia de San Francisco

I walked down to Iglesia de San Francisco from the Witches' Market, a Catholic church built between the 16th and 18th centuries.

Luck was on my side, as the historic church in La Paz opens at 4 pm daily.

I was able to take a quick peek inside (it's pretty dark) before stepping back out onto the busy plaza for additional photos.

Iglesia de San Francisco at sunset
Iglesia de San Francisco at sunset

The sky was changing colors as the sun began to set. I watched as rush hour unfolded around me.

Nightfall was near, and while I didn't want to be wandering around without reason, I pushed onward to squeeze in a few more historical sites in La Paz before calling it quits.

Bolivia's Presidential Palace
Bolivia's Presidential Palace

Presidential Palace

The yellow and white Presidential Palace looked grand lit up at night.

Across the street is a park, which offers the opportunity to get wide photos of the facade.

Related: Sucre, Bolivia's Constitutional Capital

Church next to the Presidential Palace
Church next to the Presidential Palace

There's also a church next to it, the photo of which I love given the color of the sky at that moment.

La Casona
La Casona

Dinner at La Casona

Before heading back to the Wild Rover hostel, my last stop of the night was La Casona (938 Mariscal Santa Cruz), a restaurant housed in a former monastery.

If I was only going to eat one dinner in La Paz, I wanted it to be at one of the best places known for serving traditional Bolivian cuisine.

I began by ordering a local craft beer called Saya.

The menu offered plenty of traditional dishes, including wild trout and chicharron, but I knew what I was ordering once my eye caught the llama.

I'd eaten alpaca several times in Peru and wanted to see if there was a difference.

In this case, it was grilled and served with a bordelaise cream sauce.

Llama, rice and fries
Llama, rice, and fries

I wasn't blown away by the presentation, along with white rice and fries, but the meat itself tasted fine.

Feeling good about my last night in Bolivia, I finished the dinner with an ice cream sundae.

The total bill, including a soup of the day I'd ordered as an appetizer and a bottle of water, was $18. 

See their listing on TripAdvisor for more current reviews.

La Paz bus terminal
La Paz bus terminal

Departing La Paz

The following day I was up at sunrise. I showered and hailed a taxi to the unheated La Paz bus terminal, where I caught my two-day bus back to Lima.

It would be the longest bus ride of my life, leaving me tired, sick, and with what would turn out to be an excruciating back injury upon arrival in the Peruvian capital.

If you have more time than I did, check out these additional tips for things to do in La Paz.

The Road to Halabja Part XI – Smugglers & Turkey’s Lovely Embrace

The author (center) with employees at a bus station in Silopi, Turkey
The author (center) with employees at a bus station in Silopi, Turkey

This is Part 11 of an 11-part series on traveling in Iraq by Kevin Post. Read Part Ten here, or Part One to start from the beginning.

[T]he line of cars and trucks carrying petroleum attempting to cross Turkey’s border was unlike any border crossing I’ve ever seen.

The taxi I took facilitated the border crossing because these drivers make the trips frequently and are well-known by officials on both sides of the border.

It dawned on me that I was traveling for the sake of travel while everyone else was traveling due to unfortunate circumstances or for economic gain.

Before I put my backpack into the trunk my driver handed me several cartons of cigarettes to put into my near empty backpack. I didn’t see any reason not to but was later told that smuggling cigarettes across the Iraqi border was frowned upon.

I pulled out my notebook filled with scribbled transliterations of Sorani Kurdish to facilitate our conversation but was asked to toss it before arriving towards the Turkish border as if I should have known better.

We crossed the bridge separating Iraq from Turkey and I began tearing out sheet after sheet of my notebook and ceremoniously tossed all of it into the river below.

My time came to report to the Turkish military. Turkey is the most welcoming country I have ever visited but not at this border. I could now see why I was encouraged to toss my notes into the river.

All of my possessions including my photos were taken from me and analyzed without me being present. I was sent to wait in a concrete bunker because many questions remained to be asked before I could cross.

Four hours of waiting as the night brought an arid chill. I knew the interrogation was coming and probably deserved it.

The Turkish government was most concerned that I would have Kurdish propaganda or pro-Kurdish nationalist tendencies.

The soldier, whom spoke flawless English, seemed to notice that there was no fear on my end and that I was happy to be returning to Turkey. I firmly shook his hand and caught a taxi into Silopi.

I was the only person at the bus stop ready to purchase my ticket to Ankara. I made friends with the attendants and drivers just from talking about football.

They put me on a van without telling me where I was going which would have alarmed me anywhere else but not here. I was taken to a party in a run down part of Silopi to have tea, eat some bread, practice my Kurdish and sit in a living room illuminated by candles with the sounds of generators in the distance.

Not 20 minutes later I was hurried back into the van back to the bus station to catch my bus to Ankara. My understanding was that they wanted to introduce their friends to a foreigner.

It happened so fast but the people I briefly met in Silopi gave me a lovely farewell.

To me it was no farewell; it was Turkey’s lovely embrace.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

  • Part I - Border Crossing
  • Part II - No Turning Back
  • Part III - Arbil Awaits
  • Part IV - A Bad Time to Arrive
  • Part V - Penniless in Iraq
  • Part VI - Should I Stay or Should I Go
  • Part VII - A True Muslim
  • Part VIII - Iraqi Road Trip
  • Part IX - Iraqi Hitchhikers & A Life of Prayers
  • Part X - Kurdish Farewell
  • Part XI - Smuggler's & Turkey's Loving Embrace

The Road to Halabja Part X – Kurdish Farewell

Kurdish flag in Zakho
Kurdish flag in Zakho

This is Part Ten of an 11-part series on traveling in Iraq by Kevin Post. Read Part Nine here, or Part One to start from the beginning.

[M]ahmed’s intuition served us well and we finally found a dimly lit rest area far more primitive to other rest stops and gas stations I was accustomed to seeing while in Iraq and covered in photos of Kurdish nationalistic icons.

I couldn’t see anything on this dark night with the exceptions of aircraft above the mountains. Although I am not particularly religious I am happy that we stopped to pray; I enjoyed the silence and the lack of light pollution.

I broke the silence while in the car asking about the photos of these Kurdish heroes and political figureheads. The discussion turned into contradiction to what I knew of the Kurdish struggle for a homeland and I soon began to learn after further research how divided the Kurds were in many ways.

Throughout the Kurdish inhabited regions of Turkey, Syria and Iraq I was reminded of the idea that Kurds were united but many of those I had spoken with have proclaimed contrarily to this belief.

Politics, tribal loyalties, geopolitical boundaries, language and alphabets (yes, there are disagreements as to which alphabet they should use) are prohibitions for a dream of Kurdish nationalism.

The border town of Zakho is about a four-hour drive from Arbil but this trip took longer than expected due to continual military checkpoints and I was running out of things to say.

We were mostly silent the rest of the night from exhaustion, language barriers and cultural misunderstandings before checking into a hotel outside of Duhok.

Everything about my last few days in Iraq was on the contrary to what I had believed before I arrived.

Based on the images I saw on the news I thought Iraq was desolate which is far from the truth at least in the north. Springs, rivers, alpine like mountains, snow, flowers and an abundance of fruits were commonplace. In some places I felt as if I were in the Alps.

My last day was near-perfect in Iraq-KRG with a Friday sermon in a mosque, one of the most exquisite feasts I’ve ever had, a swim in a springs and a welcoming spirit from the locals that is hard to beat.

I can see this place hosting many a traveler in search for a beauty surrounded by misconception.

We have all seen some of the most dangerous cities on earth turn into phenomenal destinations (does Medellín ring a bell?) and Iraq definitely has something that every traveler will be able to look forward to.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

  • Part I - Border Crossing
  • Part II - No Turning Back
  • Part III - Arbil Awaits
  • Part IV - A Bad Time to Arrive
  • Part V - Penniless in Iraq
  • Part VI - Should I Stay or Should I Go
  • Part VII - A True Muslim
  • Part VIII - Iraqi Road Trip
  • Part IX - Iraqi Hitchhikers & A Life of Prayers
  • Part X - Kurdish Farewell
  • Part XI - Smuggler's & Turkey's Loving Embrace

Hiking Colca Canyon: A Test of Endurance in Peru

The day starts at 3 a.m., so early that you wonder if you're really on vacation. If you're by yourself like I was, you get in a van with a handful of strangers, a driver, and a tour guide, then head three hours into the desert.

We went northwest of Arequipa, I found out later, but I could barely function at the time. I thought this trip to Peru's Colca Canyon better be worth it, and then I fell back asleep.

One of the best hikes I've ever made happened at Colca Canyon
One of the best hikes I've ever made happened at Colca Canyon

I woke up again when we arrived at Chivay, the little town where you pay the entrance fee to the national park. It's 40 soles for South Americans (about $14) and 75 soles for other foreigners (about $27).

That didn't include the 150 soles (about $27) I had already paid at my hostel for the trip, which covered the guide fee, most of my meals, lodging, and transportation.

The first meal was breakfast, just bread and jam, tea and coffee, cheese and ham (or at least what I thought was ham). I was too tired to care.

I didn't wake up until we got to Cruz del Condor, the lookout point where those big and magnificent birds soar, swirl, and dive like the fighter jets in Top Gun. It was hard to take pictures, but I got a few decent ones if not great ones.

See also: Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu

A condor flies by as visitors try to take its picture. I did OK, I guess.
A condor flies by as visitors try to take its picture. I did OK, I guess.

We were ready to hike down into Colca Canyon, six hours of trekking starting at Cabanaconde.

It starts easily enough. You follow a dirt path that descends into the canyon, measured at 13,650 feet deep. The Grand Canyon is 6,000 feet deep.

About a half-hour into the hike, you notice an oasis in the basin of the canyon, a place the river passes with green trees, red roofs, and blue pools, where we would spend the night-only five and a half more hours to go.

You're trying your best to watch your footing on the way down to make sure you don't slip on the loose dirt and rock, and a couple of times, I almost did. But I made it to the first bridge unscathed, where we took a short break.

I'm happy we did because the hike was about to get a little more challenging. We had to walk up a steep path, not too long, but the 50-degree incline made it seem that way and seem like it was taking forever.

When I reached the top, I was pretty short of breath, a reminder that I was in good shape-not great shape yet.

The path leveled out again as we headed to our next stop, lunch, which everyone could use after the paltry breakfast.

We had alpaca saltado, a popular dish in this region of Peru. The alpaca meat replaced the beef normally used in the recipe.

On my trip to the country, which began on June 13, I had already tried alpaca a handful of times. My first time was in Cusco at a restaurant called Uchu.

Alpacas are abundant...and delicious.
Alpacas are abundant...and delicious.

Oops, wrong photo…

This was the best alpaca I had in Peru. Thank you, Uchu.
This was the best alpaca I had in Perú. Thank you, Uchu.

There we go. As my friend Brent says, "It's so dang good!" Happy it was part of my lunch, I was ready for the next part of the trek, the last time we would have to walk uphill on this day.

The incline wasn't as steep, maybe 40 degrees this time, but by then, I was a little tired, so it was just as hard, so I took my time until I arrived at a tienda at the top.

I stocked up on snacks and granola bars because Markos, our guide, told us we would hike up and out of the canyon the next day before eating breakfast.

Three granola bars, a four-pack of Chips Ahoy, and a big bottle of water later, we were back on the path.

It was a dirt road that remained level until we reached our destination: Sangalle El Oasis. We could see the oasis from the end of the road, where another dirt path down into Colca Canyon began.

As I watched my footing, I realized that we had hiked all the way down into the canyon, then halfway up, and were about to hike back down. This was a day of endurance that I would always remember.

Seeing Sangalle El Oasis, in the middle of a canyon, was fascinating.
Seeing Sangalle El Oasis in the middle of a canyon was fascinating.

Getting there wasn't the same as getting to Ahm Shere, the fictional oasis in "The Mummy Returns," but we felt we had accomplished something extraordinary.

We had hiked up and down, braved the early morning cold and the midday heat, shifted from hungry to momentarily full to hungry yet again, and we all kept going.

We also got to know each other a bit. My group included a couple from the States, a girl from France, a guy from Germany, and two Israelis.

And then there was Markos, our guide, who was only 19 but looked 15, with enough English to explain everything to the people who didn't speak Spanish.

As we arrived at the common area of our cabana village, we noticed it was packed. Everyone was watching the end of the U.S.-Belgium game. The U.S. team fought bravely but fell 2-1 in overtime.

They proved, though, that they are a team to watch in the future as Coach Jürgen Klinsmann, the former German National Team coach, has his players transitioning to a more attacking style of football.

After the game, we relaxed until dinner, which started with soup, followed by an entrée of rice and stew, and ended with a Jell-O-like dessert that I was unsure of and did not care to ask about because by then, I was dead tired.

It was only 8 p.m., but we had to wake up the next day well before dawn. It was time for bed.

Markos knocked on our doors at 4:30 a.m., just like he said he would, and we met in the common area 15 minutes later, ready for our faux breakfast. I had a granola bar and the Chips Ahoy I had bought the day before.

It was time, Markos announced, by saying, "Vamos!" He lent me his light, the kind you strap to your forehead because I did not have one, and it was quite dark.

It was a huge help. Today would be nothing but up, up, and more up, and did I mention we'd be walking up? Without the light, I'm sure I would have slipped and fallen at least a few times, something clumsy people like me do.

I took several breaks along the way but kept on pushing. To entertain myself, I thought of "Talladega Nights: The Ballad of Ricky Bobby."

Specifically, I thought about the part where Ricky gives that long and silly grace before their delicious meal of KFC and Taco Bell and how one of his boys - can't remember if it was Walker or Texas Ranger - says, "You really made that grace your bitch, dad."

I wanted to do the same with Colca Canyon, so I kept trudging along, finally making it to the top three and a half hours later. We all took pics at the top, and I was doing the gangster pose to be silly. The rest of the day would be easy.

Highlights: breakfast - this time with eggs! - a stop at one of Colca Canyon's best lookout points and a brief visit to the pueblo of Maca, where I held a falcon.

See also: Machu Picchu Tour with G Adventures

The falcon is used to people. Look how indifferent he is.
This falcon is familiar with people; notice his indifference.

I stayed awake the entire ride back to Arequipa, which included two more stops, one at the highest point along the route, which stood at 16,000 feet, and saw the volcanoes surrounding the area, one still active. The other stop was at an alpaca and llama preserve.

Again, I stayed awake while others fell back asleep. I wanted to sleep on the overnight bus to Lima. When we arrived in downtown Arequipa, it was already dark, unlike my arrival two days earlier, when I saw dusk decorate the Basilica Cathedral.

As I headed back to my hostel, my legs hurt, but not too bad-not like when I made it to the top of the canyon, and even then, the burn didn't last long.

The pain fades away when the rising sun floods the canyon with such pretty white light.
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Lima Travel Guide

Dave's 160-page, all-original Lima Travel Guide is now available for Kindle.

The Road to Halabja Part IX - Iraqi Hitchhikers & A Life of Prayers

Hiking outside of Zakho
Hiking outside of Zakho

This is Part Nine of an 11-part series on traveling in Iraq by Kevin Post. Read Part Eight here, or Part One to start from the beginning.

[H]alabja was solemn, beautiful and worthy of the trip.

Although I recommend everyone visit while in Iraq to pay their respects I do not recommended staying there for more than a day without exploring the surrounding areas because it can get depressing.

One of the worst of many tragedies in Kurdish history occurred in Halabja and every street corner I was reminded of the horrendous acts committed by Saddam Hussein and his Baath Party.

The town is still recovering from poisonous chemicals found in the soil and has been converted from Fertile Crescent to a destination for pilgrims paying respect to the slaughtered. I could imagine a similar feeling while visiting a WWII concentration camp or a gulag.

Halabja’s surroundings and the people I met were my favorite aspect of the visit. I like to think my visit contributed positively to that town but after several hours of mourning I was ready to leave.

We picked up hitchhikers on the trip back to Arbil and that was by far the highlight of my trip.

Mohammad could sense that I wanted to pick them up so he gave me a gesture that certainly suggested, “Do you mind if they ride with us?”

Either that or Mohammad just wanted to speak with someone in Kurdish. I excitedly agreed.

I laughed to myself because if I were to go back in time and tell my high school self that I would be picking up hitchhikers in Iraq I wouldn’t have believed it.

The hitchhikers we picked up were farmers and as they were thanking Mohammad he insisted, “Don’t thank me, thank Kevin!”

Immediately they looked at me, thanked me in unison and from what I understood I was invited to a wedding.

We listened to traditional Kurdish music and everyone sang along including me even though I didn’t know the words. It felt so liberating to leave such a solemn place and celebrate life on this Iraqi road trip.

I have a feeling that if I spoke Kurdish we would still keep in touch to this day.

Upon arrival in Arbil I excitedly told my hosts about my trip to Halabja and explained to Mohammad via interpreter how the trip made me feel and how it was such an honor to spend time with him. As I went to pay him for assisting me on my journey he refused which led to a ceremonious plea to take my money.

Now that I look back it could be that Kurds also partake in the tradition of taarof: a set of rules and social etiquette, which can be quite confusing to us living in the West.

After saying my goodbyes to the Turkish and Kurdish engineers I left with Mohammad for Zakho along the Turkish border. It was already nightfall and there was news that the Turkish military had intensified their offensive again Kurdish PKK rebels within Iraq.

We were advised to be cautious and not stop in areas that weren’t well populated or lit. While listening to what I assumed was the Kurdish version of National Public Radio and driving at high speeds on the surprising well-paved road, Mahmed felt the need to stop and pray. I was exhausted and wanted to return to Turkey to be with my more secular minded friends.

“We were advised not to stop,” I reminded Mahmed with my attempt to arrive quickly to Zakho for the night. A man of faith such as Mahmed couldn’t fathom not praying at this time and frantically looked for a place where we could stop to do so. The road had no lighting for as far as we could see.

After minutes of bickering amongst the other passengers in the car Mahmed decided to turn onto a dirt road without any visible signs or addresses posted. We drove many a km on a dirt road with a conflict going on several miles from us.

“Allah will guide us” were the final, confident words uttered before we sat in silence hoping to find that mosque.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Series: The Road to Halabja

  • Part I - Border Crossing
  • Part II - No Turning Back
  • Part III - Arbil Awaits
  • Part IV - A Bad Time to Arrive
  • Part V - Penniless in Iraq
  • Part VI - Should I Stay or Should I Go
  • Part VII - A True Muslim
  • Part VIII - Iraqi Road Trip
  • Part IX - Iraqi Hitchhikers & A Life of Prayers
  • Part X - Kurdish Farewell
  • Part XI - Smuggler's & Turkey's Loving Embrace

Day Trip to Tokyo's Mount Takao

Mount Takao, Tokyo
Mount Takao, Tokyo

[A]fter shopping and eating to my heart's content during our visit to Tokyo, I was quite ready to get out of the sky-rise buildings and concrete, and wanted some fresh air, surrounded by nature.

If you're in Tokyo and looking for a quick trip out-of-town into the mountains, Mount Takao makes a wonderful day trip.

Mount Takao is a sacred Japanese religious destination, and it's also extremely popular for people who want to exercise. It's one of the busiest mountains in Japan, with over 2.5 million annual visitors.

Planning a trip to Japan? Book budget-friendly train passes here!

Train to Mount Takao
Train to Mount Takao

The mountain is located only about one hour by train from central Shinjuku station in Tokyo.

Just get a ticket to Takaosanguchi station on the Keio Railways line, and for just 390 Yen, you'll find yourself at the base of the mountain. Step foot out of the train station, and you can start hiking immediately.

Apart from the train costs getting there, or if you decide to take the optional cable car, hiking to the top of Mount Takao is one of the free ways to enjoy Tokyo.

Hiking up the mountain
Hiking up the mountain

There are two main ways to get up Mount Takao, by cable car or just walking the entire way.

The cable car costs, I believe 480 Yen each way, and it only takes you about ½ the way to the top of the mountain. I think the cable car can be good, mostly for those who are unable to walk, or who come with small children.

For those that can walk, I think the better option is to make the hike, enjoy the fresh air, and get the exercise.

Just follow the signs to the top
Just follow the signs to the top

There are eight main designated trails at Mount Takao, all leading in different directions, but all eventually meeting at the top of the mountain.

When I went, it was still winter, so it was quite cold, and a few of the trails were blocked by snow. We ended up taking the main trail #1, which is the busiest and most developed trail.

Exercise and culture along the way
Exercise and culture along the way

Although some parts of Mount Takao feel like you're far removed from the city and within wilderness, being so close to Tokyo, the mountain is more of a recreational park, so you're never too far from civilization.

I was hiking up the hill, only passing trees and nature for about 10 minutes, and then all of a sudden I passed a row of about 12 vending machines!

As you get to the second half of the mountain, the area where the cable car drops people off, you'll pass more and more restaurants, cafes, and shops.

The mountain turns more into a park style environment, but it's still far from motor vehicles, and halfway up the mountain, so the setting is still fantastic.

Temple on Mount Takao
Temple on Mount Takao

Hiking to the top of Mount Takao you'll pass through many Shinto shrines and even a couple of temples.

The mountain has been a sacred place of worship for Shinto-Buddhist followers for many years. Stopping to visit the peaceful temples and shrines along the trail, are a great addition to a hike up the mountain.

View from the top
View from the top

It took us a little over 1 hour to reach the top of Mount Takao. The trail wasn't difficult, but it was steep in some parts, and provided some much-needed exercise.

The view from Mount Takao was quite amazing, but it can depend on weather conditions.

On one side you can see the entire skyline of Tokyo in the distance, and on the other side is the mountain range, including a great view of Mt. Fuji if it's a clear (the day I went Mt. Fuji was covered in clouds unfortunately).

Many local Japanese had packed portable grills and food, and carried it up to the top of the mountain. At the top, many people were hanging out, and grilling meat and vegetables over camp stoves.

I have to admit, the food smelled amazing, and I know for sure on my next visit I'll be bringing my camp stove and some meat in my backpack too.

Biwa waterfall
Biwa waterfall

When you're in Tokyo and looking for a nice nature filled day trip, that's both relaxing and an opportunity to get some exercise, Mount Takao is great place.

I enjoyed the hike, the Japanese culture that revolves around the mountain, and the wonderful view from the top.

10 Australian Beaches Every Backpacker Should See

Byron Bay (photo: David Lee)
Byron Bay (photo: David Lee)

[D]id you know Australia has over 10,000 beaches? And its coast is more than 26,000km long?

You get the picture: Australia’s beaches are far and wide.

Campervan hire is one of the most affordable and flexible ways to explore Australia. Drive, sunbake, party, sleep. Repeat at your own pace.

So pack grab a towel and pull on your swimmers, here are 10 Australian beaches every backpacker should see.

Table of Contents

  • 1. Hyams Beach, NSW South Coast
  • 2. Wineglass Bay, Tasmania
  • 3. Whitehaven in the Whitsundays, Queensland
  • 4. Bondi Beach, NSW
  • 5. Byron Bay, NSW
  • 6. Surfers Paradise, Queensland
  • 7. Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, QLD
  • 8. Cottesloe Beach, Western Australia
  • 9. Bells Beach, Victoria
  • 10. St Kilda Beach, Victoria

1. Hyams Beach, NSW South Coast

At an unassuming seaside village on the southern shores of unspoiled Jervis Bay, around 180km south of Sydney, a Guinness World Record holder lurks near native bushland.

Its name is Hyams. And it’s a beach. In fact, it has the whitest sand in the world. And it’s beautiful.

2. Wineglass Bay, Tasmania

East coast Tasmania, around 190km north of Hobart, boasts another heavy hitting Australian beach - Wineglass Bay. It’s been voted one of the top 10 beaches in the world.

Access the secluded beach by bushland track or boat for sapphire-colored waters edged by white sands. Stunning.

Whitehaven Beach (photo: David Lee)
Whitehaven Beach (photo: David Lee)

3. Whitehaven in the Whitsundays, Queensland

The Whitsundays, a cluster of 74 islands, is around 900km north of Brisbane. On the largest island, Whitsunday Island, is the showpiece - Whitehaven Beach.

With too many accolades to list, the beach speaks for itself – uninhabited island, 7km of powdery white sands and aquamarine waters.

Bondi Beach (photo: David Lee)
Bondi Beach (photo: David Lee)

4. Bondi Beach, NSW

When visiting Sydney, you’ll no doubt be hitting up Bondi Beach, a rollicking Pacific Ocean community only 7km from the city. Admire Sydneysiders and backpackers at their most playful.

The beach is wide, bustling, and a hipster’s paradise. Kick back and enjoy Sydney’s famous laid back lifestyle.

Byron Bay (photo: David Lee)
Byron Bay (photo: David Lee)

5. Byron Bay, NSW

Byron Bay, around 165km south of Brisbane, is an original hippie destination.

Although more polished now, Byron is still about feeding your soul. Buy a crystal, get a massage, breathe in that incense, eat vegetarian food, and of course, hit up those golden sands. Add major music festivals.

Surfer's Paradise (photo: David Lee)
Surfer's Paradise (photo: David Lee)

6. Surfers Paradise, Queensland

Surfers Paradise, around 90km south of Brisbane, is at the heart of Australia’s Gold Coast.

Experience iconic Aussie beach culture - red and yellow clad surf rescue dudes watching over a gazillion bronzed beach goers, splayed on endless golden sands, swimming in glittering blue Pacific Ocean surf.

7. Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas, QLD

Far North Queensland is tropical Australia at its best - the Great Barrier Reef, World Heritage rainforests and gorgeous beaches like Four Mile Beach at Port Douglas, around 70km north of Cairns.

Think long white sands, swaying palm trees, blue and emerald seas. Heaven.

8. Cottesloe Beach, Western Australia

Cottesloe Beach, 11km from Perth, is a showcase of how things are done in the world’s most remote city.

Watch locals frolic in the brilliant blue Indian Ocean from the white sands or from the tiered grass lawns, then join them at the pub to soak it up, and drink in the sunset.

9. Bells Beach, Victoria

To check out Bells Beach is to also check out the Great Ocean Road. It’s a win-win.

Below the steep cliffs, golden sands and crashing waves play host to the annual Rip Curl Pro Surf & Music Festival - the longest continuous surf competition in the world. Rip it up.

10. St Kilda Beach, Victoria

St Kilda Beach? OK, it’s not amazing, but it does highlight the striking difference between Sydney’s and Melbourne’s beach culture.

If you must compare, think of St Kilda as Melbourne’s Bondi – promenades, rollerbladers, backpackers, bars and music venues aplenty. Oh, and a sandy bay.

Find out more about hiring a campervan to explore Australia, its coast and beaches.

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This post was brought to you by Travellers Autobarn.

Khao Soi - Eat This in Northern Thailand

Khao soi
Khao soi

[I]f you ever visit northern Thailand, specifically Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai, you'll undoubtedly come across a dish known as khao soi (it's also sometimes spelled khao soy).

It's available at countless restaurants throughout northern Thailand, from touristy restaurants to local hole in the walls.

What is khao soi?
What is khao soi?

What is Khao Soi?

Khao soi is a northern Thai dish composed of yellow egg noodles combined with a creamy coconut milk based curry gravy. 

I have to say it's almost like a Thai style stroganoff, with a few extra ingredients.

Everyone makes their version a little different, but I think the most important part of any bowl, the foundation of the dish, is the curry sauce, made with coconut milk and a blend of spices and chilies.

The mains types of khao soi are chicken, pork, and sometimes beef if you eat at a Thai Muslim restaurant.

The dish has origins from Burmese cuisine, where there are a number of similar flavored dishes.

Typical condiments
Typical condiments

Condiments

One of the reasons I love eating in Thailand so much is because of all the amazing condiments and toppings, and khao soi is no different.

Being a lover of condiments, there's no way I can eat a bowl of khao soi without dressing it up to my liking.

With any bowl, you'll be served some extra roasted chili flakes, which can be in dry form or more like a sauce, pickled mustard greens, and finally some pieces of chopped red onions or shallots.

I like the broth dark and spicy
I like the broth dark and spicy

While it's best to taste the broth first, so you can first get a feel of the original flavor, I can say that it will just about always taste better with some more chilies in it - at least if you enjoy a little heat.

Khao soi broth is creamy and rich, and depending on the particular restaurant you eat it at, it can be slightly sweet, or it can be more spicy and complex with a blend of dry spices.

I prefer the latter version, more spice filled and less sweet.

Samer Jai
Samer Jai

If you go to Chiang Mai, probably the most famous place to eat khao soi in the entire city is a restaurant known as Samer Jai.

It's actually a huge restaurant, and they serve a large variety of different northern Thai dishes but are most famous for khao soi.

For their version, the broth was a little on the sweet side, but it had a good nutty flavor to it.

It was extremely rich and also had a layer of fragrant red chili oil served on top.

Overall, the version at Samer Jai was alright, but not my favorite.

Best khao soi
Best khao soi

On my latest visit Chiang Mai, I decided it would be my mission to eat many bowls of khao soi and try to find the best.

After trying quite a few bowls, I ate at Khao Soi Khun Yai, a small and open-air restaurant where grandma does the cooking.

Their khao soi emerged from the kitchen, looking spectacular even before seasoning it.

The broth was dark red from the start, and before even taking my first bite, it just looked fantastic.

The broth was creamy and rich, but not too oily like it can sometimes be, it wasn't nearly as sweet as other versions.

The noodles were thick and hearty and flavorful. I decided to eat both the chicken and beef versions, and both were equally satisfying.

When you visit northern Thailand, among the many delicious things to eat, don't miss a good bowl of khao soi.

A Tour of Nungwi Village in Zanzibar

View of Nungwi village
View of Nungwi village

[A]fter Stone Town, the village of Nungwi is the second biggest town on the main island (known as Unguja, but just referred to as Zanzibar island) of Zanzibar.

Nungwi is located at the very northern tip of the island, about a one hour drive from Stone Town.

Though the village is known for a number of things, probably the most famous reason to visit Nungwi is to enjoy one of Zanzibar's most spectacular beaches.

Wonderful beach at Nungwi
Wonderful beach at Nungwi

While the East Coast beaches of Zanzibar suffer from drastic low and high tides, where low tide makes it virtually impossible to swim, Nungwi's northern tip position sees little tide changes throughout the day.

If you like crystal clear turquoise ocean water, where you will have the opportunity to swim in the warm water throughout the day, Nungwi is one of the best places to visit on the island.

There are a number of large all-inclusive resorts in Nungwi, but you'll also find more affordable hotels, as well as a few budget style bungalows, all right next to the amazing beach.

Exploring the village
Exploring the village

Nungwi is not only home to a wonderful beach, but it's a full village with a decent sized population (second largest on the island).

Along with lazying by the beach, one thing you can do, either by yourself, or with a hired guide, is take a village tour.

When I was in Nungwi, we took a guided tour of the village, which took a couple of hours, and our guide was able to walk us though areas of the village that I never would have discovered on my own.

We went through the local market, went to the area where men were making dhow sailboats, saw ladies making baskets, toured a number of schools and mosques, and also visited the different political village group headquarters.

Taking a Nungwi village tour was a great way to see local living in the community.

Mnarani Natural Aquarium
Mnarani Natural Aquarium

Another thing you can do when you visit Nungwi, is go to Mnarani Natural Aquarium, which is not the most impressive aquarium in the world, but you will get to see sea turtles up and close.

The aquarium is part of an effort to preserve sea turtles that hatch on the nearby Mnemba Island atoll, just off the coast of Zanzibar.

If you love to SCUBA dive, there are a number of authorized PADI certified dive centers along the beach. There are quite a few dive sites near Nungwi, but probably the most famous and popular is around Mnemba Island. Nungwi is a good village to base yourself in if you're interested in diving.

Sunset dhow cruise
Sunset dhow cruise

Nungwi village is known throughout Zanzibar as being the dhow sailboat building headquarters.

A dhow is a traditional wooden sailboat, originally brought over from Yemen. To this day, dhows play an extremely important part in transportation and fishing in Zanzibar and all along the east coast of Africa.

When you're in Nungwi, you can walk around the ship yard, located next to the ocean, where crews of men build beautiful new boats by hand.

Also, what I think is one of the best things to do when you're in Zanzibar, is take a dhow cruise at sunset. Peacefully sailing with the breeze as the sun slowly declines over the Indian Ocean, is truly a majestic way to spend an evening.

Zanzibari rice pilau
Zanzibari rice pilau

When it comes to eating in Nungwi, there are not too many options, and most of the restaurants are at hotels. If you're looking for a wonderful view of the ocean and quite good food at a hotel, try Langi Langi's restaurant.

If you want to eat budget local Zanzibari food, there's a small restaurant known as Mina's, located adjacent to Jambo Brothers bungalows. The guys that run the restaurant are friendly, and they serve a decent plate of pilau rice with fish.

Nungwi in the evening
Nungwi in the evening

When you visit Zanzibar, it's a great experience to spend some time exploring Stone Town, but if you want a beautiful beach experience, Nungwi has your name written on it.

3 Trip Ideas for the Ultimate Music Lover

From California to New York, the United States offers fantastic destinations for music lovers to explore. You'll find everything from country music to jazz. If you're the ultimate music lover, check out these three destinations with happening music scenes. Then, plan your trip today.

Country Music Trip to Nashville, TN

Country Music Hall of Fame
Country Music Hall of Fame (photo: Jamie)

If you're a country music fan, a trip to Nashville is something you have to experience at least once. It's home to the Country Music Hall of Fame and the CMA Music Festival. Nashville is only three hours from Memphis, where you can tour "Graceland," Elvis Presley's mansion.

During your trip, you might even spot some famous artists that live in Nashville, such as Sheryl Crow, Taylor Swift, Ke$ha, Tim McGraw, Faith Hill, Keith Urban, Alan Jackson, Billy Ray Cyrus, Martina McBride, and so many more.

Hundreds of honky-tonk bars are scattered across Nashville. They're a great place to listen to aspiring musicians and have a good time. Nashville's WSM radio station hosts a live Saturday night broadcast at the 4,400-seat Grand Ole Opry House. Several other incredible live music venues include Ryman Auditorium, The 5 Spot, Exit/In, and 12th& Porter.

Jazz Music Trip to New Orleans, LA

Jazz Fest in New Orleans
Jazz Fest in New Orleans (photo: Tulane PR)

New Orleans is most famous as the birthplace of jazz music. However, it also has an eclectic music scene featuring gospel, funk, hip-hop, rock, and heavy metal. People flock to the area to listen to brass marching bands and the blues, especially during Mardi Gras or Jazz Fest. The 10-day "Jazz Fest" attracts 650,000 people each year.

Some stellar artists who have frequently played in New Orleans include Aretha Franklin, Bob Dylan, BB King, Ella Fitzgerald, James Brown, Willie Nelson, Fats Domino, and Paul Simon.

You can listen to their music or check them out at one of the museums in New Orleans. It is a diverse place that offers all sorts of cultural music experiences. Just rent a car from Budget to explore everything New Orleans offers.

Live Music Trip to Austin, TX

Superhumanoids at SXSW
Superhumanoids at SXSW (photo: Gerald Rich)

Austin is dubbed the "Live Music Capital of the World" because there are more live music venues per capita than famous places like Nashville. Plus, you can find venues to listen to any music you want.

Nightclubs and other live music venues scatter the downtown streets, and you can even find live performances in places like the supermarket or the airport. Some popular live music venues include The White Horse, Sahara Lounge, Ginny's Little Longhorn Saloon, and Elephant Room.

In addition to live music venues, there are several other music attractions for tourists to enjoy. For instance, the South by Southwest (SXSW) music event is a blast. There's also the Texas Music Museum and the Paramount Theatre. There is so much to see and do in Austin that you'll never be bored.

These are just a few destinations music lovers will enjoy. Other cities with fantastic music scenes include Los Angeles, New York City, Chicago, and Branson.

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This post was brought to you by CarRentals.com.

Visiting the Rock Churches of Lalibela

Lalibela, a small town in northern Ethiopia, is one of the country's holiest and most respected towns. When I traveled to Ethiopia, I wasn't sure I would be able to visit-the flights available online were expensive, and the bus system from Addis Ababa could take two days to get there.

Visiting Lalibela
Visiting Lalibela

But while I was walking around Addis Ababa one day, I saw the Ethiopian Airlines office and thought I'd stop in. They offered a pretty good rate, so, with no plans, we bought tickets and left the next day to see Lalibela (by the way, they often have the best deals in person, so once you're in Addis, go to Ethiopian Airlines to buy a ticket to Lalibela directly if you're interested).

Lalibela town
Lalibela town

Lalibela is one of the most culturally and religiously significant towns in Ethiopia. It's also one of the major pilgrimage destinations for Ethiopian Orthodox Christian followers.

The town is known as the New Jerusalem, and King Lalibela, who ruled Ethiopia during the 12th and 13th centuries, is said to have designed it to preserve Jerusalem after it was overtaken by Muslims in 1187.

The ancient urban planning of Lalibela is arranged symbolically as Jerusalem, with even a man-made version of the River Jordan. The most impressive part of visiting Lalibela is touring the incredible monolithic churches. The most remarkable part about the series of churches is that they are carved into the rock, hollowed out from the outside.

Bete Amanuel church
Bete Amanuel church

Overall, there are 11 main churches in Lalibela, and they are a UNESCO World Heritage site. The two main clusters of churches are the Northern and Eastern groups. Finally, there's a solo church (more info below), which I think is by far the most well-preserved and impressive.

It's best to arrive at the churches in the early morning. You first need to purchase your ticket, which costs a pretty steep $50-but I thought the price was worth it.

It's also recommended that you hire a local guide, who you can either arrange from the ticket entrance office or usually from your hotel. A guide not only helps lead you around but can also be a great source of knowledge.

Bete Maryam church
Bete Maryam church

Once you have your ticket, you can walk around any of the 11 churches. Some are in better condition than others, and some are more incredible.

Seeing the churches from the outside is one thing, but when you go inside and start to think how each church was carved from the outside, from a single giant boulder, you'll really be in awe.

Imagine your house as a solid boulder. Then, using a hammer and chisel, hollow out the insides and carving them out chip by chip across the ceiling.

Amazing architecture
Amazing architecture

Our guide detailed all the little symbols and decorations within the churches. The windows were fascinating, many of them with different meanings. Some churches were being renovated and fixed up, but probably at least half were still natural and precisely as they had been for centuries.

Church of Saint George
Church of Saint George

Though all the churches at Lalibela were great to see, the Church of Saint George was by far the most impressive and well-preserved. Situated within a massive volcanic rock, the church was carved in the shape of a Lalibela cross. To get inside, you must navigate down a rock-cut alleyway that wraps around the church, with a gradual slope eventually reaching the bottom.

At the base of the Church of Saint George is a small baptismal pool that is considered holy water. On the sides of the rock walls are small hand-carved caves where priests and others sometimes sleep or spend time. The Church of Saint George was incredible; some call it the 8th man-made wonder of the world.

Lalibela, Ethiopia
Lalibela, Ethiopia

While I'm not a huge fan of visiting indoor museums when I travel, I really appreciate hands-on history, and I especially enjoy historical landmarks still being used. The churches of Lalibela are not only impressive to visit, but the town and churches are an important and sacred destination for many Ethiopians.

Eating My Through London's Borough Market

Historical Borough Market in London
Historical Borough Market in London

[F]or the past few weeks, I've been covering some of the things I did on my trip to London.

Broadway Market was great, but of all the places I visited on my short trip, the food was probably the most memorable at Borough Market.

The market is renowned throughout the city for its fantastic produce, artisan food makers, and also for being a historical landmark.

The history of Borough Market is traced back to the 11th century when food traders would gather at the London Bridge. In the 13th century, the market was moved a little ways away to what is present day Borough High Street.

Though it has gone through a number of changes and upgrades, it still thrives today, and is a popular place to visit when you're in London, and especially if you love food.

Borough Market
The center of Borough Market

There are over 100 individual stalls at Borough Market, so it's not overly huge, but it's big enough to have a good range of things to choose from and to browse around.

Fresh fish
Fresh fish

You'll find quite a few vendors selling fresh seafood and produce, as well as many vendors who sell pre-made food ready to be eaten.

Beautiful heirloom tomatoes
Beautiful heirloom tomatoes

The fresh vegetables and fruit looked wonderful, and I wanted to buy some ingredients and cook them myself, but with no kitchen in my hotel room, I settled for the pre-cooked food.

Cheese and olive stick
Cheese and olive stick

As soon as you walk in the main entrance of the market, there's a stall that sells a variety of tempting baked goods.

The most prominent item on display was their pyramid stack of cheese and olive sticks, and since my mouth was already watering, I quickly bought one.

The bread stick was crispy on the outside, lightly oily, and embedded with salty cheese and bits of olive. It was very tasty.

Sausage on a stick
Sausage on a stick

The next thing I came across was a sausage on a stick, one of the great things in life.

I'm a huge fan of English mustard, which has a nice kick to it. After ordering my sausage on a stick, which came right off the grill, I proceeded to lather it in a thick layer of mustard. The sausage was salty and tender, and the extra mustard gave it the perfect touch.

Pastel de nata
Pastel de nata

If you enjoy sweets, you'll find plenty of things to snack on throughout Borough Market as well.

I'm not a huge sweets fan, but my wife is, and she enjoyed her Portuguese pastel de nata, a flaky pastry filled with sweet egg custard.

Chorizo sandwich
Chorizo sandwich

There are no shortage of things to eat at Borough Market, and if you're like me, your wallet will run out before you stomach space does.

In order to not empty my bank account, I had to choose wisely. I chose a chorizo sandwich from a famous Spanish foods shop on the corner of the market known as Brindisa.

The chorizo was flavorful, slightly spicy, and was accompanied by some fresh leaves of rocket, and a fragrant and sweet roasted red pepper.

Duck confit sandwich
Duck confit sandwich

Like I mentioned, I really wanted to try more food at Borough Market, like the fresh pasta dishes, and salt beef sandwich vendor, but finally I had to choose just one more thing, and I decided to go for the duck confit sandwich from Le Marché du Quartier.

The sizzling duck was piled into a buttered ciabatta roll, and I couldn't wait to start tearing into it. The duck was incredibly tender, and had a beautiful smokiness to it.

I would have liked it even more with a generous scoop of English mustard on top, but it was still good.

Borough Market
Borough Market

Though Borough Market may cater to many tourists these days, I think it's still a wonderful place to visit when you're in London, and a great place to eat delicious food.

A Walk Around London (Photos)

London is perhaps the most photographed city in the world, but that doesn't mean it's not still fun to walk around and take photos.

Big Ben clock tower
Big Ben clock tower

Big Ben Clock Tower, on the north side of the Westminster Parliament building, is one of London's most famous landmarks.

Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace

Buckingham Palace is the head residence of the monarchy, and at all times of the day, you'll find a crowd of people outside peering into the gates at the famous guards inside.

St. Paul's Cathedral
St. Paul's Cathedral

Built in the 17th century, yet on the same site where a previous church dates back to 604, St. Paul's Cathedral is another place you must see in London.

The architecture and construction of the church are an absolute wonder.

Hyde Park
Buildings across from Hyde Park

Despite all the famous buildings and structures scattered throughout London, many ordinary buildings are not well-known but are still landmarks with years of history.

One thing I enjoyed doing most was walking around London and admiring the old architecture.

Nice cars in London
Nice cars in London

Along with the many impressive buildings throughout London, there's also a fantastic amount of nice cars in the city. I could spend all day walking the streets, looking at nice cars.

London
Transportation in London

Getting around London using public transportation is quite convenient, though it can be expensive.

Using a combination of the underground, known as the tube, double-decker buses, and walking, we could get everywhere we went within the city.

Street art in London
Street art in London

Walk around the streets of London in certain parts, and you'll see lots of interesting graffiti and street art.

River Thames
Cruise boat on the River Thames

I didn't get to take a boat on the River Thames when I was in London, but I did walk across several bridges, like Tower Bridge and London Bridge, and enjoyed the view of the river from above.

If interested, you can take a sightseeing cruise on the river.

Broadway Market
Live music at Broadway Market

Stop by Broadway Market on Saturday if you are visiting London on a weekend. The market is excellent for finding delicious food, listening to pop-up musicians, walking around, and people-watching.

fish and chips
You can't miss fish and chips.

The most famous meal in London is a combination of fish and chips.

This plate, from Fish Central, included a mega-sized piece of battered and deep-fried fish with a side of thick-cut fries. I doctored it up with some malt vinegar, and it was marvelous.

London Eye
London Eye

I had passed through the airport in London many times previously, but this was my first time in the city, and it was great to walk around and enjoy the sights and sounds of London.

7 Tips On How To Crowdfund Your Travels

Crowdfunding helped Christopher Columbus sail the Pinta, Niña and the Santa Maria. (photo: Wiki Commons).
Crowdfunding helped Christopher Columbus sail the Pinta, Niña, and Santa Maria. (photo: Wiki Commons)

It sounds like an impossible dream: a bunch of people throwing money at you so that you can travel around the world. However, it's now easier than ever to travel the world.

It seemed that only rich people could travel the world throughout history, yet even they rarely went far.

That's because most people who are rich enough to travel around the world for months would rather sit on their ass in their cushy mansion.

Still, there were exceptions. For instance, I just read A Voyage Across the Americas about a wealthy dude who left Switzerland and explored the Americas in the 1850s.

And then there's the most famous self-funded traveler, Marco Polo.

However, my favorite is the Duke of the Abruzzi (1873-1933), who didn't just travel worldwide but was also a hardcore mountaineer.

He not only climbed North America's second-highest mountain (in Alaska), but he also found the easiest way up K2, the second tallest mountain in the world.

Although he never got to the summit, that popular route is now called the Abruzzi Spur.

But wait. Not all world travelers were filthy rich. Some were just filthy.

Crowdfunding Travels is an Old Practice

Crowdfunding your travels is old news. Many famous explorers of yesteryear crowdfunded their journeys:

Christopher Columbus: You probably were taught that the Queen of Spain bankrolled his three ships.

However, what you probably don't know is that she only provided half the money. The other half came through Columbus's crowdfunding efforts.

In fact, by the time Queen handed him the gold, he had already lined up a bunch of wealthy Italians who had committed to chip in if the Queen kicked in the other half of the money.

Mungo Park: In 1794, the private African Association paid for this Scottish man to explore the Niger River. Such associations were the crowd funders of their day.

Roald Amundsen: He received seed funding from his king and parliament, but his brother crowdfunded the rest. As a result, Amundsen was the first to reach the South Pole.

What's the source of a government's budget? Taxes, which are a type of forced crowdfunding. Pay your taxes or go to jail.

Thus, even government funding is a type of crowdfunding. Governments have funded the following legendary explorers:

  • David Livingstone: The British monarchy funded his pioneering expeditions across Africa.
  • Lewis & Clark: Thomas Jefferson used government funds to bankroll this team to explore the Pacific Northwest.
  • Neil Armstrong & Buzz Aldrin: Ah yes, the ultimate government-funded travel outing: walking on the moon!

OK, by now, you should no longer feel awkward asking for others to pay for your travels-it's an old practice.

The advantage of this century is that it's now easier than ever to crowdfund your voyages.

Tax dollars = Crowdfunding. Buzz on the Moon. (photo: Wiki Commons)
Tax dollars = Crowdfunding. Buzz on the Moon (photo: Wiki Commons)

How to Crowdfund Your Trip

Nowadays, a 25-year-old nobody can crowdfund his travels.

You no longer need to be a renowned explorer, be a rich Duke, or have Obama on your speed dial.

However, you still need to be well-connected and able to convince enough people to foot the bill.

Kickstarter is the Coca-Cola of the crowdfunding industry.

The problem with Kickstarter is that they prohibit "fund my life" projects, including funding your trip to Tahiti.

However, there's an easy way around that rule. You have to propose a creative project that requires you to spend time in Tahiti.

For example, you could say that you need to go to Tahiti to:

  • Write a novel about the region
  • Film a documentary on how global warming is affecting the island
  • Take photographs to make a gorgeous coffee-table book
  • Work with locals to grow, harvest, and export unique food products

You can do whatever you want on Kickstarter if you know how to exploit the loopholes.

For instance, The New York Times reported a couple who raised $16,000 to do a road trip.

A lady crowdfunded a plane ticket and travel expenses to write a guidebook about Oxford.

An even better example is this guy almost crowdfunded his way to a $25,000 airline ticket!

Filming a Moroccan landscape. I think the Air Mountains of Niger and Northern Chad may look like this.
Filming a Moroccan landscape. I think the Air Mountains of Niger and Northern Chad may look like this.

Although Kickstarter is the Kleenex of crowdfunding, other sites have their advantages. 

For example, if your Tahiti project requests $10,000 in funding and you raise $9,500, you will get nothing if you use Kickstarter.

With Indiegogo, on the other hand, you would keep the $9,500 (though you will have to share an extra 5% of the money you raised as a penalty for not having made your goal).

There are several niche crowdfunding sites:

  • Go Fund Me: specializes in funding personal things, especially illnesses and disaster relief, and handles travel.
  • crowdfunder: Can give you exposure to A&E.
  • Crowd Rise: Creative projects, birthdays, run/walks, volunteer; they're all ways to justify your travel.
  • My Free Implants Yeah, crowdfunding for breast implants. See, I told you there's a niche crowdfunding site for everything!

However, until now, there hasn't been a niche site solely dedicated to funding travels. Now there is. 

Trevolta.com may sound like a site that will teach you how to disco dance, but it's a new site that does only one thing: crowdfund travels.

It's nice that now you no longer have to hide the true motivations behind a creative project.

You can say, "I don't want to write a book or do produce a documentary. I want to drink wine in Paris."

The problem is that if that's your Trevolta project, it's unlikely that you will get funded.

Therefore, you'll have to do basically what you have to do in Kickstarter: (1) propose an interesting project, and (2) provide valuable rewards. Otherwise, you'll stay in Omaha.

River crossing (photo: Francis Tapon)
River crossing (photo: Francis Tapon)

7 Tips on Crowdfunding Your Travels

May 25 is Africa Day. To celebrate that day, I launched The Unseen Africa Kickstarter Project.

Although it's just getting started, I've already learned seven crucial lessons:

1. Research first.

Ask yourself: has someone done this before? Research to find out. How did they fare?

If they were successful, how much did they raise, and what rewards did they offer at what price points?

2. It's just as essential to study failures as it is to study successes. 

You might see some successful crowdfunding projects and think, "What? He got $30,000?

I'm better than he is, so I can do raise at least that much!" Then you try to raise only $3,000.

What's not always apparent in successful crowdfunded projects is that the creator is exceptional.

He may be a Hollywood producer or a famous artist. So he can get away with putting together an unimpressive crowdfunding proposal and still raise $80,000.

In contrast, a nobody puts together a slick proposal and can't even get his mom to pledge.

Examine failures to avoid errors and realize that there's more than meets the eye in successful projects.

3. Propose an original project. 

Be remarkable. After looking at many projects, you should know why your travel plan is better than the other ten you looked at.

Make sure it's at least as interesting as the ones that were successfully funded.

My idea is to travel to all 54 African countries over four years, spending one month per country, filming throughout. That's unique.

4. Pre-launch is more important than post-launch. 

Although we haven't raised the $20,000 yet, I'm confident that we will succeed because we've done a lot of upfront work.

Also, I showed the draft project page to strangers and friends to get their advice on how to improve it-that was quite useful.

If the project is exciting, word-of-mouth should give the project wings. Do the same for your project.

5. Get as close as you can to the final product.

Ideas are a dime a dozen, which is why you'll raise pennies if all you have is an idea. Try to simulate or prototype what you're trying to achieve.

If you want to be the first person to climb Colorado's 14ers in a wheelchair, then make a remarkable video of you climbing a few mountains in your wheelchair. (This guy who used a wheelchair successfully raised money to see 50 cities.)

Want to scuba dive in Borneo? Then take photos of you diving in Cuba.

I took plenty of photos and videos in Morocco, the country where my pilot TV episode will occur.

All this shows that you're serious and that this is not just a pipe dream.

6. Invest time and money.

You have to spend money to raise money. I've spent tens of thousands of dollars on camera equipment, a car, visas, and an editor to put together a pair of 3-minute videos.

You also have to devote significant time to make your project happen.

If you don't, then it will show, and you'll have wasted your time.

Most successful projects get 80% complete on their own dime and then use crowdfunding to cover the final 20%.

If you do just 5% and hope that crowd funders will cover the other 95%, then you will probably fail.

If you have little money to spare, then find a believer who will provide some seed money for you to get started and then make him a co-creator, so he shares the glory.

Francis in the Sahara
Francis in the Sahara

7. Pledge on another project. 

The best way to feel like a backer is to be a backer. I pledged on 25 Kickstarter projects before starting mine.

Therefore, pledge on a project on one or more crowdfunding sites.

Notice how the project's creator communicates-what does he do right and wrong?

By seeing life from a backer's perspective, you'll be a better creator.

Speaking of pledging, please spread the word about The Unseen Africa Project!

It's about turning my 4-year trip to all 54 African countries into a TV series.

Although my trip will happen whether my project is successful or not, I wanted a powerful medium to change people's perception of Africa, and TV's the way to do it.

Crowdfunding your travels is older than Columbus.

However, just like Columbus was remarkable, well-connected, and proposed a unique project, you need to do the same.

You may not discover a New World, but you can help the world see things in a new way.

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About the Author: Francis Tapon, the author of Hike Your Own Hike and The Hidden Europe, is creating a TV series and book called Unseen Africa, based on his four-year journey across all 54 African countries.

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Can You Get Travel Insurance With a Terminal Illness?

Getting traveler insurance when diagnosed with a terminal illness isn't easy, and it isn't cheap.

There's nothing quite like your own pending demise to make you want to take all those trips that you never got around to taking. Death is a natural part of life, and we all have to go some time.

Sunset in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
Sunset in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua (photo: David Lee)

But what about getting traveler insurance for someone with a terminal illness?

What if you have been away from your birth country for a long time and want to see it again before you pass?

What about relatives you haven't seen in forever?

Can I get travel insurance if I have a terminal illness?

There's a good chance you can - if you can and are willing to pay (visit HBF to find out more). However, don't expect the endeavor to be a simple one.

Most insurance companies are not going to provide travel coverage to terminally ill people. It just doesn't work as a long-term sustainable business model. Let's take a closer look at why.

Insurance companies are for-profit organizations - and they make huge amounts of profit, more than just about any other business type.

Now, for an insurance company to make money on the premium payments they receive, they need to minimize the number of filed claims.

Minimizing claims depends on making safe bets about which policy candidates may, in fact, end up filing a claim.

Now, traveler insurance policies are all issued with certain common benefits in place.

You can have a policy customized to meet your needs and requirements concerning:

  • Medical care
  • Emergency evacuation coverage
  • Luggage recovery/replacement
  • Accidental death & dismemberment
  • Reservation cancellation protection
  • Coverage types

The two most potentially expensive types of claims possible on a travel insurance policy are medical care and emergency evacuation coverage - the same two that a terminally ill person may likely require.

If you require an emergency medical evacuation to your home country from a foreign land, the costs could easily be in the tens of thousands of dollars.

That kind of claim makes insurance actuaries sweat, shiver and shed painful tears of loss.

And that's the biggest reason you will have a tough time finding traveler insurance coverage if you have a terminal disease: high-risk betting.

Expensive traveler insurance for the terminally ill is available.

There are some insurance companies out there that specialize in higher-risk scenarios. They do provide travel coverage for chronic and terminal patients, but it's anything but cheap.

The insurance company is betting that you can make your trip and not encounter any need to file any claims.

You, as the policyholder, want to be covered if you find yourself in a serious health situation abroad and need to file a claim to avoid financial devastation.

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This post was brought to you by HBF.

Patty & Bun: For Burger Lovers in London

Patty & Bun
Patty & Bun

[W]hen it comes to finding a good burger in London, you'll surely come across Patty & Bun.

On my short visit to London, a friend on Facebook mentioned I should go to Patty & Bun for a burger, and I would not be disappointed.

I didn't actually make plans to go to the restaurant, but I wrote it down, along with my other list of restaurants, as a place to potentially eat.

We happen to be walking around Oxford Street one day, mostly doing some shopping and just browsing, and all of a sudden my map radar showed that we were down the road from Patty & Bun, and it happen to be 11:55 am on the dot (it opens daily at 12 noon).

In light of our circumstance, we decided to try the burger.

The menu
The menu

Having been in Tokyo the month previously, I was expecting a mile long line down the sidewalk, but luckily on this day we were only five minutes early, and were the first ones in the door as soon as they opened.

There's also a 5 Guys in London, that I walked past, which is always packed with a line out the door.

The menu at Patty & Bun, a simple piece of paper, was placed on the table in front of us.

There were just six simple burgers to choose from, and a number of different sides like salads, chips, and chicken wings.

Burger
Burger arrived

I decided to order their most basic burger (I'm a pretty traditional guy when it comes to burgers), which they call the "ARI GOLD cheeseburger."

The waitress kindly asked how cooked we wanted the meat, to which she recommended a medium rare, and I accepted.

Since we were first in the restaurant and first to order, our food came first (and by this time, 10 minutes after we arrived, they were pretty much full).

Though it's a sit down restaurant, the food was served fast food style; there were no plates, but the burger just came wrapped in a piece of paper and the sides came in paper bowls.

ARI GOLD cheeseburger
ARI GOLD cheeseburger

The "ARI GOLD cheeseburger" included a beef patty, cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickled onions, ketchup, smokey P&B mayo (secret recipe), all stuffed into a brioche bun.

You'll notice that the bun is not one of those pale white sesame seeded buns that pushes down like a sponge.

Instead at Patty & Bun they use a brioche style bun, which is a pastry like piece of bread that's buttery and egg-based. The bun had a nice buttery taste, and thick, but still with a fluffy texture.

Inside the burger
Inside the burger

I'm a huge fan of rare cooked juicy meats, and the first first thing I loved about the burger was that it was cooked perfectly - pink in the middle, seared on the outside, and incredibly juicy and flavorful. The blend of beef in the burger was fantastic.

They used just the right amount of cheese, and I enjoyed the crispness of the pink pickled onions, though I think some extra raw onions would have been good too.

Salad
Salad

I'm not a huge French fry (chips) lover, so instead I decided to go for a side salad and their famous chicken wings.

The side salad, dressed in a light herb vinaigrette, was alright, but nothing special.

Chicken wings
Chicken wings

Along with burgers, Patty & Bun is known in London for their chicken wings. I ordered the "Winger Winger Chicken Dinner," which were smoked confit chicken wings smothered in barbecue sauce.

I wasn't a big fan of the chicken wings, they were too soft for me, almost no texture to them, just softness and sweet barbecue sauce.

Overall, I enjoyed the burger the most at Patty & Bun. If you're looking for a good burger in London, go check them out.

Address: 54 James Street, London W1U 1HE, United Kingdom
Open hours: 12 noon - 11 pm

Ameyayokocho Market: Tokyo's Most Exciting Street Market

Ameyayokocho Market
Ameyayokocho Market

Tokyo teems with dozens of markets and shopping areas, and sometimes it feels like the entire city is a single mega shopping district.

While I was exploring Tokyo, I spent quite a lot of time in the Ameyayokocho Market, a series of walking shopping streets.

The name of the market translates to "candy shop alley," and while you will find some sweets vendors, it's now turned into an everything alley.

Entrance to Ameyayokocho Market
Entrance to Ameyayokocho Market, Tokyo, Japan

Located in the Ueno district of town, adjacent to the Ueno train station (a major rail transport hub in Tokyo), the market is made up of several streets that parallel the elevated railroad track.

The market is more of an afternoon and night market, so if you go in the morning, most things will be closed and the streets empty.

Go in the afternoon or evening, and it's an entirely different story.

Seafood vendor
Seafood vendor

One of the things I loved about the Ameyayokocho Market was the variety of what was available.

Next to a shop filled with nail polish, you'll find a fishmonger slicing up fresh sashimi.

There are cosmetic shops, clothing stores, shoe stores, military gear stores, casinos, comic book stores, anime character shops, snacks and street food vendors, and everything in-between.

Along with the variety of what was available at the market, I also enjoyed how international it was.

There appeared to be people from around the entire world walking through the market and enjoying the lively atmosphere. The action is always exciting to experience.

A market would not be complete without some street food snacks, and one of the most beloved Japanese savory treats is an octopus pancake cooked in the shape of a golf ball, known as takoyaki.

Takoyaki in Tokyo
Takoyaki in Tokyo

The takoyaki I had at the market was not the best version I've ever had, but it was one of the cheapest versions I had in all of Tokyo.

Plus, the self-service on toppings, like seaweed flakes and mayo, was a bonus.

Japanese taiyaki snack
Japanese taiyaki snack

For a sweet snack, you can try the fish-shaped taiyaki pancakes, filled with a choice of creamy custard or sweet red beans.

I'm more of a salty kind of snacker, but my wife loved the fish-shaped snacks.

Underneath the railroad track at the Ameyayokocho Market, especially in the late afternoon, when most people finish work, there are many Izakaya bars where you can sample delicious skewers of yakitori and chase them down with beer or sake.

In the evening, these places are packed out, and it can even be a challenge to find an empty table.

At noon, when the market is still quiet
At noon, when the market is still quiet

After some people watching, shopping, drinking, and street food snacking, you'll probably want to sit down for a more fulfilling meal. The market has plenty of options for the hungry.

There are many mid-range dining options, some of which are located up a flight or two of stairs, where you can choose to eat just about any Japanese food you're craving.

The ground level is home to numerous fast-food type restaurants serving things like rice and Japanese curry, bowls of ramen, and conveyor belt sushi. It's safe to say, you won't go hungry.

Oyakodon
Oyakodon - chicken, and egg over rice

Since I was staying at a hotel just a short walk from the Ameyayokocho Market, I ate at numerous restaurants in the area, including Go!Go!Curry!, and a bunch of places that I couldn't read the names of.

There was even a cluster of fantastic looking shack-sized Chinese street food stalls within the market that looked good, but I never had a chance to eat at.

If you're unsure about going on your own, you can always join a Tokyo food tour in Ueno.

Ameyayokocho Market is one of the best markets to experience in Tokyo if you love shopping, food, and culture, in an action-filled environment.

Planning to explore more of Japan? Book budget-friendly train passes here!

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Santa Cruz de la Sierra, a Relaxing City in Bolivia

A week after my fingertips began to feel the effects of the high altitude on my trip through the Bolivian Altiplano, I finally touched down in semi-tropical Santa Cruz de la Sierra (Elev: 416 m or 1,365 ft).

My flight from Sucre arrived at the smaller, older El Trompillo Airport, closer to the city center where I would be staying.

Later, I would fly to La Paz from Bolivia's most modern airport, Viru Viru International Airport.

Santa Cruz de la Sierra as seen from a tower in the Cathedral
Santa Cruz de la Sierra, as seen from a tower in the Cathedral

The city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra (also known simply as Santa Cruz) is organized in concentric rings, with the historic center smack dab in the middle.

Plaza 24 de Septiembre is at the heart of the historic center and was named after the anniversary of an uprising that led to the city's independence from Spain.

Here, I spent five days relaxing at an altitude as close to sea level as you'll find in Bolivia.

The oxygen-rich air aided in the healing of my fingertips, which slowly began to return to normal (despite going through a waxy-feeling phase).

Plaza 24 de Septiembre quickly became one of my favorite plazas in Latin America, not only because of its size and tree cover but also because of the wonderfully restored buildings surrounding it.

I passed the days by soaking up the sunshine while going for walks and sampling traditional Bolivian snacks like cuñapé (delicious yuca and cheese bread).

If I hadn't been in a rush to return to Lima for my first trip to the Amazon, I would've stayed longer to explore two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the region, the Jesuit Missions of the Chiquitos and Fuerte de Samaipata.

Related: Escape from Uyuni, Bolivia

The city's cathedral dominates the main plaza, known as Plaza 24 de Septiembre
The city's cathedral (Basilica Menor de San Lorenzo) dominates the central plaza, Plaza 24 de Septiembre.
Looking down the long nave of the Cathedral in Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Bolivia.
Looking down the long nave of the Cathedral.
Cathedral bell tower
Cathedral bell tower.
Side view of the Cathedral
Side view of the Cathedral.
Plaza 24 de Septiembre in Santa Cruz de la Sierra
Plaza 24 de Septiembre in Santa Cruz, Bolivia.
One of the streets bordering Plaza 24 de Septiembre, complete with beautifully restored buildings
One of the streets bordering Plaza 24 de Septiembre has beautifully restored buildings.
The Palace Theater (1920) now serves as a cinema
The Palace Theater (1920) now serves as a cinema in Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
Colorful graffiti on a wall behind the Cathedral
Colorful graffiti is on a wall behind the cathedral.
Churchgoers stream out of the Cathedral after a service one night. I was eating dinner on a nearby rooftop restaurant.
Churchgoers stream out of the Santa Cruz Cathedral after service. I was eating dinner at a nearby rooftop restaurant.

How to Use Your Smartphone in Europe, Without Going Broke!

Taking selfies in Italy
Taking selfies in Italy

Summer has finally arrived in Europe! The days are getting longer, the bars are fully stocked, and the hostels are all getting booked up. 

The beauty of backpacking in Europe is the plethora of ways to travel and see the continent available to budget-conscious travelers.

However, it is not so easy to find a way of using your much-loved smartphone cheaply in every country of your trip. 

Did you know that a Megabyte of data for an American on AT&T costs $19.97 per MB, and calls are as much as $1.50 per minute?

This is why it is an excellent idea to get a European SIM card for your trip this summer so that you're not left with a horrendous surprise waiting on your doormat when you get back!

An excellent option for a European SIM card is LeFrenchMobile, a multi-lingual prepaid SIM designed especially for visitors coming to Europe on backpacking vacations. 

A LeFrenchMobile SIM will let you:

  • Make calls from any European Union (EU) country to another EU number from €0.19/min ($0.26/min)
  • Facebook, tweet and browse the web in any EU country from just €0.07/MB ($0.09/MB)
  • Get it delivered worldwide before you leave

Don't forget that to use a European SIM card. You will need to have an unlocked phone. If your phone is currently locked, you will need to ask your current provider to get it unlocked.

So to avoid stressing from high roaming fees - order yourself a European SIM card from LeFrenchMobile's website, and then you can sit back, relax and upload that Facebook selfie straight from the Eiffel Tower.

*AT&T's international calling and data rates can be found on http://www.att.com/att/global/#voice - the rate quoted is the "Pay-Per-Use Rate" and is correct as of the 17th April 2014.

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This post was brought to you by LeFrenchMobile.

Sucre: Bolivia's Constitutional Capital in Photos

The constitutional capital of Bolivia is Sucre, though the power of government has since shifted to La Paz, which most people now think of as the country's capital.

The Supreme Court is still located in Sucre, and unlike La Paz, Sucre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

I wasted no time departing Potosí after my silver mine tour.

I and a few others from the hostel shared a private taxi for the journey, which lasted two to three hours.

A beautiful example of republican architecture, the Chuquisaca Governorship Palace was the initial Palace of Government when it was completed in 1896.
A beautiful example of republican architecture, the Chuquisaca Governorship Palace was the initial Palace of Government completed in 1896.

More so than any other city in South America to date, Sucre reminded me of Medellín, Colombia.

At an elevation of 2,810 meters, it's quite a bit higher, and with only 300,000 people, it's smaller, but the feeling of a city surrounded by the mountains was the same.

I was hoping the lower elevation would alleviate the problem in my fingertips, but I had to go lower still, so I only spent a few nights before hopping a flight to Santa Cruz de la Sierra.

The Metropolitan Cathedral, built from 1559 to 1712, is so large, it's hard to capture in a single photo
The Metropolitan Cathedral, built from 1559 to 1712, is so large, it's hard to capture in a single photo.
Statue of Mariscal Jose Antonio Sucre, the first president of Bolivia
Statue of Mariscal Jose Antonio Sucre, the first president of Bolivia, in Plaza 25 de Mayo. The park's name recognizes the date Bolivians began to declare their independence from Spain in 1809.
This building marks one of the corners of Plaza 25 de Mayo
This building marks one of the corners of Plaza 25 de Mayo.
Another well-preserved building (this one is not located in Plaza 25 de Mayo)
Another well-preserved building (this one is not located in Plaza 25 de Mayo).
Spicy chicken in red pepper sauce, with rice and potatoes
My first dinner in Sucre was at Pueblo Chico restaurant. I ordered the spicy chicken in red pepper sauce, with rice and potatoes.
La Recoleta Monastery
La Recoleta Monastery, founded in 1601. I was informed it was too dangerous to visit the top of the hill seen in the background.
Detailed view of the entrance to La Recoleta. There's a museum inside the monastery.
Detailed view of the entrance to La Recoleta. There's a museum inside the monastery.
The view of Sucre from Mirador Cafe
The view of Sucre from Mirador Cafe.
My colorful lunch at the Mirador Cafe. I believe it's chicken smothered in cheese and surrounded by vegetables.
My colorful lunch at the Mirador Cafe. I believe it's chicken smothered in cheese and surrounded by vegetables.
Dinosaur footprints
Dinosaur footprints can be seen running straight up this quarry wall at the Parque Creatico outside of Sucre.
Observation deck and air traffic control tower at Sucre's Lajas Tambo Airport
Observation deck and air traffic control tower at Sucre's Lajas Tambo Airport.
My Aerocon flight from Sucre to Santa Cruz de la Sierra
My Aerocon flight from Sucre to Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
A final look back at the Sucre airport
A final look back at the Sucre airport.

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UNESCO

The Historic City of Sucre became a World Heritage Site in 1991.

Click here for the complete list of UNESCO sites Dave has visited during his travels.

London's Saturday Broadway Market

Broadway Market
Broadway Market, London

[L]ondon is full of great weekend markets, one of them being Broadway Market.

Like with nearly every market in the city, there's a history that goes with it. Beginning in the 1890's, people on Broadway Market street (before it had the name) started selling all sorts of things, mostly good quality food.

The market continued to develop and was a well-known spot in London for fresh fruits and vegetables, and a place where you could get tradition food, and socialize with the community.

But as time moved on and London modernized, Broadway Market started to fade. In the 1980's, with the economy not doing so well, the market pretty much came to an end.

The good news is, starting in 2004, there was a renaissance, and the market was relaunched, this time as a Saturday market each week.

Now, most vendors open from 9 am - 5 pm each Saturday.

Oranges
Great place to buy produce

When I was in London, we headed over one Saturday morning to walk around and sample some of the food available.

There were a number of fresh meat and vegetable vendors, many selling high quality organic produce.

I wanted to buy it all, but since I had no kitchen, I went directly for the prepared food, which makes up the majority of the market.

smoked salmon
I'm always a lover of smoked salmon

My first snack was a beautiful slice of smoked salmon from the Atlantic, on a slice of extremely crusty bread.

The salmon was stacked on top of the bread, topped with a spoon of sauce that tasted like a combination of cream cheese and mayonnaise, and finally a piece of fresh dill.

It was amazing!

Snacks for sweets lovers
Snacks for sweets lovers

There were all sorts of delicious English sweets and cakes, as well as quite a few international foods from around the world as well.

My first ever Scotch egg
My first ever Scotch egg

The next food that really commanded my attention was a lady at the far end of the market who sold Scotch eggs.

A Scotch egg is basically an egg that's surrounded by sausage, covered in breadcrumbs, and deep-fried. This was my first time to ever try one, so I was thrilled - could there be anything better than eggs and sausage in ball form?

She had a number of different types, including one wrapped in chorizo, but I had to go with the haggis, a sausage made from sheep's pluck.

It was amazing, the egg was gooey and slightly runny, and the haggis surrounding it was meaty and delicious.

Live music at Broadway Market
Live music at Broadway Market

Along with food, what I really loved about Broadway Market in London was the atmosphere.

The market has a real friendly and community feel to it. It's a place where friends in the area come to hang out on a Saturday, eat some delicious food, and spend good times with friends and family.

Throughout the market, there were a number of musicians and artists who livened up the mood!

Broadway Market
Broadway Market

What I really liked about Broadway Market was not only the delicious food to sample, but also the friendly neighborhood feel to it. In a city the size of London, it's just great to walk around a calm and peaceful market - and the delicious food is great too.

Along with many traditional foods to try, there are also quite a few international vendors as well. I didn't have stomach space this time, but next time I'll be trying the Ghanaian food!

If you are in London on a Saturday, and if you love to eat and hang out, you should make it a point to visit Broadway Market.

Potosí Silver Mine Tour at Bolivia's Cerro Rico

Thwaaaack! The force of my hard plastic helmet smacking against a wooden crossbeam in the dimly lit Potosí silver mine tunnel left me momentarily stunned.

Only seconds earlier, Julio, a former miner, and our tour guide had warned us to look up, not down, as we entered a working mine in Cerro de Potosí, better known as Cerro Rico ("Rich Hill").

Bolivia's Cerro Rico (mountain) glows red at sunset
Cerro Rico glows red at sunset.

GO, GO, GO!

I had no more than a few seconds to regain my composure and appreciate the fact that I wasn't gushing blood from my forehead before I was urged to continue jogging deeper into the mine.

One-ton steel carts full of rock and ore could come screaming down the rails running through the narrow tunnel at any moment.

Julio had warned us if you're not in a safe place when they do, you're in grave physical danger.

I continued jogging but quickly found myself out of breath.

At 4,090 meters (13,420 feet), Potosí is the world's highest major city.

The mine we were entering was even higher, at 4,200 meters (13,779 feet), with the peak of Cerro Rico reaching 4,824 meters (15,827 ft).

Having spent the previous three days crossing the Bolivian Altiplano and the five days before that acclimatizing in the Atacama Desert, I thought I'd be okay doing the tour after only one night's rest in Potosí.

I was wrong.

It didn't help that we were in a tiny, dark, and enclosed space.

An entirely alien environment to anything I'd ever experienced. Compressed air hissed from pipes bringing oxygen into the mine.

I wasn't aware of it at the time, but a giant sinkhole had developed near the peak in 2011, and geologists warned the whole mountain was at risk of collapse due to how much it has been hollowed out over the last 500 years.

Our guide warned us not to touch anything yet said there was no need for face masks because the mine we were entering was wet, keeping airborne particulate down.

What was I doing inside an active third-world mine so dangerous it had claimed millions of lives?

And more importantly, how long was I going to last?

Coca leaves are chewed religiously by Bolivian silver miners at Cerro Rico.
Coca leaves are chewed religiously by miners.

Table of Contents

  • Arriving in Potosí
  • Miner's Market
  • Suiting Up
  • Outside the Potosí Silver Mine
  • Inside the Mine
  • Exit Plan

Arriving in Potosí

Having missed my flight out of Uyuni, I traveled by bus to Sucre to catch a flight to Santa Cruz de la Sierra.

I was in a rush because my fingertips were still not feeling right, a symptom of altitude sickness.

I'd begun taking Diamox and vitamins the day before to ease my symptoms on a Bolivian doctor's advice. 

While I wasn't feeling immediately better, I wasn't feeling any worse.

Before heading for lower elevations, I decided to squeeze in a night in Potosí, along with a tour of what was once the world's largest silver mine.

The bus arrived in Potosí at 3:30 PM, and I made my way to the colorful Koala Den hostel, where I quickly met some travelers who'd heard good things about Greengo Tours.

Within an hour of my arrival, I went with several of them to book a tour for the following day.

I then spent the remaining hour of daylight walking around Potosí, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and back in the 17th Century, one of the wealthiest cities in the Western Hemisphere.

Old churches showed signs of the Potosí's former grandeur.

Today, Potosí is the capital of the poorest department of South America's most impoverished country.

Our guide, Julio César Morales Zambrana, previously worked at the Potosí silver mine.
Our guide, Julio César Morales Zambrana, is a former miner

Miner's Market

The following day, I enjoyed a big breakfast courtesy of the hostel before heading out to the Greengo Tours office with several others at 9 AM.

There, we met our passionate Bolivian guide, Julio César Morales Zambrana, a former miner with the 10 de Noviembre miner's cooperative, operating in the Pampa Oruro mine.

In 1989, he began learning English and transitioned from working in the Potosí silver mine to working as a tour guide and translator.

We boarded a local bus to the Miner's Market, a place where miners can shop for their tools of the trade, as well as their vices.

They can buy everything from coca leaves and cigarettes to electric headlamps and dynamite.

We were all aware ahead of time that we'd need to chip in and buy the miner's "gifts" at the market.

Julio was a character, but it was clear he cared deeply about miners and their welfare.

Julio explained the importance of coca leaves, which the men chew religiously both inside and outside the mine.

The documented benefits of this Andean tradition are numerous, including help with high altitudes, appetite suppression, improved digestion, and boosts in energy.

I'd tried chewing coca leaves during the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu but didn't care for it.

Sticking dynamite in my mouth.
Fun with dynamite

He also showed us the cheap cigarettes the guys like to smoke in the mine.

As if inhaling asbestos, arsenic, and other cancer-causing agents aren't harmful enough, many smoke tobacco.

Another favorite is plastic bottles filled with 96% alcohol. Yes, the miners drink almost pure alcohol during their breaks in the Potosí silver mine.

And that leads us to dynamite, the essential explosive for blasting new tunnels through the increasingly hollowed-out Cerro Rico.

In one of the shops, we learned dynamite in and of itself is neither delicate nor dangerous. To prove this point, I stuck a stick in my mouth for a cheeky photo.

I asked Julio about buying face masks, but he said the mine was low enough and wet enough to be necessary.

This sounded strange to me, but with nobody else worried about masks, I didn't go out of my way to buy one.

[Sidenote: Theoretically, it makes sense, but given the trouble I had breathing sans mask, if I'd bought one, I'd probably have taken it off once inside the mine.]

By the end of our trip through the market, we'd all chipped in to buy various gifts for the miners, which we had to carry ourselves.

I made the mistake of paying for a two-liter bottle of soda that Julio suggested. I was then responsible for carrying the heaviest possible object.

I recommend buying the coca leaves or dynamite instead for those who've yet to take the tour.

Leaving the market; Cerro Rico looms large in the distance.
Leaving the market, Cerro Rico looms in the distance

Suiting Up

From the miner's market, we walked to a small staging area inside a dilapidated building.

A room contained the protective gear we would need to wear before entering the mine.

Everyone in the group put on oversized pants, green jackets, rubber boots, and a plastic helmet attached with a battery-powered electric headlamp.

We were each given a bag to carry our gifts, plus bottled water and cameras.

Due to the dust in the bags and mines, you must bring a protective case or bag for your camera.

Alternatively, use a dust/shock/waterproof camera.

We also had the chance to use the bathroom here, which I recommend doing as you may be spending several hours in the mine without another opportunity.

Entrance to the Potosí silver mine we toured.
Entrance to the mine we visited

Outside the Potosí Silver Mine

At a quarter to noon, we arrived at the 27 de Marzo mining cooperative. If ever there was an entrance to Hell, this was it.

Old mining carts littered the grounds; garbage was everywhere. Brisk winds whipped up clouds of dirt.

Llama blood was splattered on the buildings and smeared thickly across a sign above the entrance, offerings by the miners to Pachamama ("Mother Earth").

The remains of those llamas, some bones and hair, could still be seen in metal buckets on the ground. Julio explained there'd been a sacrifice recently.

The primarily Catholic miners believe in God above ground.

On the other hand, Cerro Rico, known colloquially as "the mountain that eats men," is ruled by a demon called Tío.

In addition to consuming the coca leaves, cigarettes, and alcohol themselves, these items are also given as offerings to appease Tío inside the mountain.

It is believed that if you make Tío happy, he'll reward you with the discovery of a large mineral deposit (silver if you're lucky).

But if you do something to upset or anger him, Potosí silver miners are injured or killed in accidents such as cave-ins.

Wearing protective gear provided to us, including rubber boots and a battery-powered headlamp.
Wearing protective gear provided to us, including rubber boots and a battery-powered headlamp.

Cerro Rico was once the largest silver mine in the world.

The Spanish used slave labor to extract tens of thousands of tons of silver, with three to eight million people dying in the process.

Today, little silver is left, leaving the miners to risk their lives searching for less precious metals like tin, lead, zinc, and copper.

Those who survive accidents and cave-ins in the short term remain are at risk for Silicosis and other respiratory illnesses in the long term.

It's a well-known fact that everyone who works in the mine is trading an income two to three times the minimum wage for a reduced life expectancy.

Many career miners die by the age of 40.

Unfortunately, there are few other employment options for these hardworking and courageous men.

Before entering the mine, we briefly sat around, chewing some coca leaves with miners.

Like chewing tobacco, I find it a nasty habit, though given these men spent most of the day inside the mountain, I can't blame them for doing anything that helps take the edge off their work.

Julio gave us a final safety briefing before we entered the tunnel, warning us about the need to run when we first go in as there's nowhere for us to go if a mining cart comes flying down the tracks toward the exit.

Even the men "controlling" it would be unable to entirely stop such a heavy moving object before it was to hit any of us. 

We had to depend on Julio timing our entry correctly.

At the very least, it's possible to hear an early warning sound made by the vibrations of the cart against the rails.

Here that sound, and you need to find an alcove, lest you be run over immediately.

The entrance to the silver mine is covered in llama blood, offerings to the Pachamama.
The entrance is covered in llama blood, a routine offering to Pachamama.

Inside the Mine

Once Julio ushered us inside the Potosí silver mine, the race was on.

The sunlight faded quickly, and we were left with the light from our electric headlamps and some lights the miners were using.

Within meters of entering the mine, I ran straight into that crossbeam.

Had I been given a cheaper helmet, I'd have been knocked flat on my ass.

Thankfully, that wasn't the case, and I was able to continue jogging deeper into the mine, though now hunched down as low as possible.

Thirty seconds later, we were able to stop and catch our breath. I was breathing heavily.

I've never hyperventilated in my life, but I imagined it must've felt like what I was experiencing.

Before I was ready to continue, Julio urged us on.

There was a second guide who was following up on the rear for safety reasons.

I quickly fell behind as we made our way further into the mine.

In every nook where we stopped, Julio would explain a little more about the inner workings of the mine, but I couldn't take my mind off my breath.

Julio said that if any of us were having problems for our safety and that of the miners, let him know, and the other guide would lead us out.

He looked at me specifically, and I acknowledged his warning.

But what my mind wanted, my body did not, and after 30 minutes in the mine, I turned to the assistant guide and waved the white flag.

Until that point, to his credit, he had been very supportive and encouraging.

My fear of having a panic attack (exacerbated by the difficulty breathing due to the altitude) won out over delving deeper.

Looking toward the top of Cerro Rico in Potosí, Bolivia.
Looking up toward the top of Cerro Rico

Exit Plan

The assistant guide relayed the message to Julio, and I confirmed my wish to make an early exit.

The assistant led me out the way we came but left me on my own for the remaining 100 meters. It was 100 of the scariest meters I've ever walked.

The fear of a mining cart plowing me down from behind was present in my mind every second and every step of the way.

I felt alone, despite passing a few miners heading in the opposite direction.

I'd only been in the mine for 40 minutes, but seeing the cylinder of sunlight stream through the exit was exhilarating.

My time waiting outside the mine was longer than anticipated.

While the rest of my group was giving out gifts to the miners, listening to their stories, tasting 96% alcohol, and feeling the vibrations of dynamite being detonated, I was left to entertain myself on the outside.

I noticed that regardless of how filthy they were exiting the mine, the miners cleaned themselves up with great care before descending into town.

I spoke with a few miners in Spanish, took photos, and paced back and forth.

I asked to use a bathroom and then regretted having done so after seeing more than one pile of human feces on the floor next to the squat toilets.

Two hours passed, and I was starting to worry. Where was the group? Were they okay? Do Julio's tours usually spend so much time inside the Potosí silver mine?

Eventually, they did come out, much to my relief.

I was beyond bored by that point and wanted nothing more than to get off the wind-swept, trash-filled mountain.

On the bus ride back to central Potosí, Julio apologized for the length of time inside the mine.

He said he got carried away talking to the miners, his friends.

At that point, I didn't care and was almost thankful my time was limited to 40 minutes.

It was enough. I'd entered the mountain that eats men, a verifiable Hell on Earth, and come out to tell the tale.

Child labor is a present-day reality inside the Potosí silver mine at Cerro Rico -- another fact I was unaware of when I visited. 

The Devil's Miner is an award-winning documentary about these child workers.

The full version in Spanish is available on YouTube, and the DVD with English subtitles can be purchased on Amazon.

___

UNESCO

The City of Potosí became a World Heritage Site in 1987.

Click here for the complete list of UNESCO sites Dave has visited during his travels.

Phnom Penh Travel Guide: Eat, Drink and Party

Pyongyang II never fails to entertain
Pyongyang II never fails to entertain

Whether you're traveling through or a seasoned expat, you'll always crave places that give your taste buds a workout, a place to unwind after work, or merely a good place to get your groove on.

Thankfully, Phnom Penh is full of all of those and more. Thai, Vietnamese, North Korean, Italian, French, Mexican, and Lebanese, each is an experience in itself.

Eating

There is no shortage of great places to eat on any budget, dollar plates of noodles in the Russian Market, and $50 boats of sushi next to Wat Bottom Park; you're in great hands.

Pyongyang II

A little further up from where Monivong and Mao Tse Toung connect, North Korea waits for you.  

Moral quandaries aside, you will not find an experience quite like this anywhere else in Phnom Penh.

Owned and operated by the government of North Korea, the immaculate presentation of their finest female exports is nothing to be sniffed at.

Not only are they waitresses, but entertainers also.

They answer any questions you may have about their homeland with grace (unsurprisingly, Pyongyang sounds like quite the paradise!), responding to my curiosities with "Oh yes, it's very beautiful" and beaming smiles where appropriate.

My suggestion is to arrive around 7 pm and order before half-past.  

Come 8 pm, and those ever-friendly waitresses don various costumes and outfits for the stunning renditions of traditional North Korean music and dance.  

To say they're proficient would be a criminal understatement.

Pirouettes that would leave me dizzy and sick on the floor; drum solos that could be from any of your classic rock bands; perfect synchronization between them all. It's certainly a sight to behold as you munch down on the dog and cold noodles you ordered for a laugh.

Barn Barn Singapore Fried Rice

The best budget eatery in Toul Tom Pung!

The chalkboard menu with mains for only $2, how can you go wrong? Each main comes with tea and soup.

  • Chicken rice (Hainan style)
  • Khmer paste with rice
  • Fried noodle
  • Fried rice
  • Rice noodle soup
  • Stir-fried vegetables and rice
  • Beef lok lak with tomato rice ($3)

Also up for grabs are homemade sweets, soy milk, ice lime tea, fried yam, mushrooms, fries, nuggets, and spring rolls, all for a dollar or less!

Just a couple of blocks down from the southeast corner of the Russian Market (P' sar Toul Tom Pung), a nice respite from shopping.

See also: Cost of Travel in Cambodia

$3 lok lak at Barn Barn, comes with soup and tea
$3 lok lak at Barn Barn, comes with soup and tea

Russian Market Best Ice Coffee

Head to the middle of the market, where all the little food stalls sell noodles, spring rolls, and assorted fried goodies.  

Then, you need to look out for the Best Iced Coffee In Phnom Penh sign, as well as one of those incredibly wide and welcoming smiles you'll get used to here.

The owner of this little cafe/stall hybrid will take great delight in serving up robust and sugary coffee - and when you think you've finished it, he'll give you another - all for the princely sum of 4,000 Riel ($1).

If you're sitting there getting coffee, there's a stall directly behind where you're sitting that does Vietnamese noodles with a bit of chili and fried spring rolls.

Next to that is a place with fried thick noodles with beef and egg for 5,000 Riel ($1.25).

Ngon Restaurant:

Vietnamese food done exceptionally well at reasonable prices.  

Mains from 10,000 Riel ($2.50), substantial outdoor seating area with lots of greenery, and views of the North Korean embassy.

Beirut Resto-Cafe:

The best Middle-Eastern food in the capital.

Not one thing I've tried has disappointed me; everything is fresh and authentic, right down to the quality of the tobacco!

Their mezze (side-dish) selection is ideal for sharing, and to top it all off, they have the ridiculously unhealthy - and utterly gorgeous - baklava (sweet pastry with chopped nuts and honey/syrup).

Wraps (beef, chicken, lamb, fish) for $3-$4 are just like the ones in Beirut itself. Free delivery with orders over $10 makes this a great lunch choice.

They also have a restaurant inside Golden Sorya Mall (next to Heart of Darkness, Pontoon, and the other bars and clubs on Street 51).

Beirut serves up the best of the Middle East
Beirut serves up the best of the Middle East

Comme a la Maison

Upmarket but reasonable French restaurant just around the corner from the bars on Street 278.

Great specials (around the $10 mark) and lovely ambiance, they have indoor and outdoor dining.

My recommendation (aside from the excellent espresso selection!) is the Médaillons d'Agneau Grillés.

Grilled lamb medallions in olive oil and rosemary, absolutely divine.

They also have a fantastic delicatessen, a must for foodies across the city, serving up fresh-baked French pastries and cakes, cooked meats and terrine, yogurt, and wine.

Luna Restaurant and Bar

Perhaps the best Italian choice in Phnom Penh, just ahead of Dolce Italia.

Indoor and outdoor (both are good choices), excellent wine selection, and utterly gorgeous pizzas.

The kinds of pasta aren't the best, but you can make them at home, pizza, on the other hand, it is not so easy!

Mosquito repellent is recommended if you're sitting in the outdoor garden area.

Warung Bali

Are you feeling that need for rich, sweet, and spicy Indonesian food? Look no further; Warung Bali will leave you satisfied every time.

My favorite dish here is the beef rendang, less than $3, incredibly juicy and mouth-watering. Service is quick, and the juices and shakes are tasty.

Their menu has something for everyone, vegetarians included.

Located just one block in from Riverside and the Royal Palace, great to top yourself up with energy for the day.

Origami

Sushi is almost as good as any I've had (and I've been to Japan), fresh and plentiful.

Set back from the main street, it's a quiet retreat from the city's bustle.

Boats of sushi, bowls of ramen, and plates of tempura, it's genuine to a tee, the chef included. Expect to pay $30+ per head.

Spring Vale

Curious Japanese lunch spot that's only open for four hours in the middle of the day, Monday to Friday.

Okonomiyaki, gyoza, tofu, Japanese curry, passion fruit shakes, and a few other options. Japanese lunch for $5 is always something I'm up for.

ARTillery

One of the quaintest streets in Phnom Penh (Street 240 ½), one that you'd never think to look down yet, has a couple of delights you should be sure to check out.

ARTillery Café is one of those - a regular fixture of mine for a leisurely Sunday lunch with a health-orientated menu including lots of smoothies, sandwiches, breakfasts, and raw foods you never thought possible.

The regular menu is full of exciting and delicious delights, my go-to choice being the Supreme Sandwich ($5.50) with sweet potato and taro crisps (chips): a pork sausage sandwich with mustard mayonnaise, gherkins, salad and (my favorite part) an onion reduction.

One of the many delicious plates they serve up at ARTillery. Chorizo and an onion reduction with salad
One of the many delicious plates they serve up at ARTillery. Chorizo and an onion reduction with salad

The Italia ($5, cured peppered pancetta ham with olives) is another I'd put my name to, along with the Pumpkin Soup ($3.50, made with whole-grain mustard, served with bread) and Fresh Pancakes ($4, with mango, banana and passion fruit) for breakfast. Also on the menu are lots of smoothies, shakes, and juices to suit any taste.

ARTillery's specials for the day on one of the cutest streets
ARTillery's specials for the day on one of the cutest streets

Drinking

Much like the food and restaurant options, there is such a variety on offer.

Liquid

Cozy, with some of the comfiest couches in Phnom and the friendliest servers.

Decent food and drink menu, as well as a free pool table and lively music. A regular after-work fixture for me.

Cambodian Beer Gardens

Across Cambodia, there are many outdoor beer gardens, with jugs of beer for around 6,000 Riel ($1.50), towers of beer for 20,000 ($5), usually with a great selection of authentic Khmer food.

The most adventurous thing I managed was bull penis - once was enough.

Mekong River Bar

Perhaps the cheapest beer on Riverside, with $2.50 cocktails upstairs.

The balcony is great for people-watching, usually with synchronized groups of old ladies dancing around sunset.

Food isn't great, but there are plenty of other options around.

Score

By all definitions, this is the only place to be for the big games.

All popular sports covered, they have three bars, four pool tables, two projectors, a multitude of flat-screen televisions, and the atmosphere to match.

Drinks and food aren't cheap compared to most places, but the quality and choice are good.

They do a Sunday Roast for around $10 if you're hankering for a taste of home.

There are other places to watch the games depending on where you are in the city: Paddy Rice on Riverside, Gym Bar on 178, and many other local places that have the odd TV.

Huge projector screen, four pool tables and many TVs
Giant projector screen, four pool tables, and many TVs

Zeppelin Bar

The best rock 'n' roll bar in Phnom Penh.

I mean, when you're only competing against one other place, that's not so hard, but it's a great place to meet like-minded people, knock back some 50 cent drinks, and request some classic rock tracks.

The owner never smiles but has one of the most significant record collections I've ever seen. Read a little about him here.

Phnom Penh is host to hundreds of eateries and drinking establishments; these are just a few of the regular places that shape the area for me.

Going Out

There are a couple of western-style clubs in the center of Phnom Penh, as well as lots of cool spots for live music, art, and the like.

Pontoon

Regular house DJs, the music varies in quality but is typically an excellent place to laugh with friends.

As with all clubs, beer is on the pricey side ($3+ a bottle) compared to the beer gardens, but most eat and drink beforehand in the connecting Golden Sorya Mall (an open area with lots of bars and restaurants and seating on Street 51).

Entry fees are required after certain times. Understand that this isn't Europe or South America. The Cambodian girls there are generally 'working' and expect remuneration the morning after.

Heart of Darkness

One-minute walk from Pontoon, Heart has no entry fee and is generally a good laugh.

Renowned for being gay-friendly, Heart and Blue Chilli (on Street 178) are excellent choices for the LGBT crowd.

Heart is cozy, has a small but decent dance floor, a good seating area downstairs, and an upstairs bar and pool table, winner stays on.

DJ Club

Two minutes from Ponton and Heart of Darkness, DJ Club is a local club, usually only Cambodians.

Foreigners are more than welcome, but there are few women after midnight due to cultural reasons (unmarried people tend to live with their parents and are expected home).

Music is hit and miss, drinks are the usual affair, but Cambodian clubs have their charm, with the occasional dancing performance to break up the night.

Meta House

The German Cambodian cultural center has so much to offer. Music, film screenings (usually free), a gallery, DJs, German lessons, craft fairs, and more.

Check their website for listings to see what's going on. There'll be something you're interested in!

German lessons, art, music, drinks.. Meta House has it all
German lessons, art, music, drinks.. Meta House has it all

Equinox

On one of my favorite drinking streets (278), Equinox is a staple of the weekend crowd.

Live music is regular and good. Plenty of local and traveling artists make their way through their doors, as well as comedy and quiz nights.

Decent stock of drinks, a rooftop smoking area, and a (barely passable) pool table on the ground floor.

Keep an eye on their website or Facebook page for new announcements.

The best spot for live music in Phnom Penh
The best spot for live music in Phnom Penh

Among all these places, you'll come across so many others when discovering the place for the first time, some even on the same street.

Street 278, Riverside, Street 51, and the surrounding areas are favorite hangouts for expats and locals alike.

Just around the corner from Liquid and Equinox is Dosa Corner, for example, a small Indian restaurant serving up cheap dosas with various curries and bottles of beer.

Around the corner from there is the tallest sky bar.

There's so much to enjoy in my adopted home, music, drinking, dancing, eating, and go-karting. What more could anyone want?

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve on Oahu

Hanauma Bay, located southeast of Honolulu, on Oahu, Hawaii, is one of the most popular attractions on the island.

Every day, thousands of tourists and locals from Hawaii show up at this beautiful natural bay carved into a crater and surrounded by green mountain walls.

Hanauma Bay
Hanauma Bay

Hanauma Bay is more than just a beach; it's a nature preserve and a sea life sanctuary known for its coral reef and abundance of marine life.

You can come to do some swimming and relax on the beach, but most people visit to enjoy the world-class snorkeling.

Snorkeling at Hanauma Bay is one of the best things to do in Oahu with kids.

Koko Head in the background
Koko Head in the background

Hanauma Bay is a nature preserve operated by the state - so it's a protected area - and that's great because it also means that the natural environment is regulated and maintained.

You have a nice view of Koko Head Crater, another excellent place to visit, and the nearby Makapu'u Lighthouse trail from the parking lot.

Marine reserve
Marine reserve

The parking lot is at the top of the bay, so after parking, make sure you first get an overview look of the gorgeous bay below.

You can see the incredible coral reef formations and even spot some schools of fish in the crystal clear water below.

Also, if you visit at the right time of the year and have a bit of luck, you might be able to spot a humpback whale in the distance (just outside of the bay, there are intense blue waters, and it's a prime spot for whale watching).

Beach and snorkeling at Hanauma Bay
Beach and snorkeling at Hanauma Bay

After paying the entrance fee, you are first required to go into the Marine Education Center and watch a short film about marine conservation, the do's and don'ts for taking care of the reef, and some brief information about Hanauma Bay.

Though it might be a bit boring, and you'll want the film to be over so you can get to the cool water below, it's an excellent way to make more people are aware of what it takes to preserve and care for the reef and bay.

Quiet beach, benefit of going early
Quiet beach, the benefit of going early

It takes about five minutes to walk to the beach below from the top parking lot.

Alternatively, there's a small trolley, and for a small fee, you can ride down or up if you need to.

The beach itself is stunning, with coarse brown sand, green mountain walls, and calm lapping water that's clear and refreshing.

It's best if you have your own mask and snorkel, but you can rent a set along the beach if you don't.

During your visit to Honolulu, taking a day trip to Hanauma Bay is a stunning beach to see and an opportunity to explore the many colorful and unique fish and marine life Hawaii has to offer

Entrance to Hanauma Bay
Entrance to Hanauma Bay

See the official park website to confirm Hanauma Bay's current hours and entry requirements.

Open hours: 6:45 am - 1:30 pm (closed on Mondays and Tuesdays)
Entrance fee: $7.50

13 Budget-Friendly Things to Do in Durban

Durban Skyline
Durban Skyline (photo: Mark Schoombee)

Durban is one of South Africa's most vibrant cities.

It has a great Africa feel to it, especially in the downtown area, and it is very colorful.

The city is steeped in history, and the architecture reflects this, from Georgian and Art Deco to Palladian and the less interesting 1970s styles.

The mix of cultures is also reflected in the city, and the large Indian population adds color and aromas to the streets of Durban, while their mosques and temples add an unusual and exotic flavor to this formerly English town.

Of course, the weather in Durban is the best there is, and the beach life is simply terrific, with the broad Golden Mile Promenade offering a great attraction.

Evenings in Durban are warm and balmy, with café life vibrant and exciting as the sounds and chatters flow from the coffee shops and music clubs.

For a great choice of Durban travel accommodation check AccommoDirect.com.

Spices in Victoria Street Market
Spices in Victoria Street Market (photo: jit bag)

Low or no cost activities in Durban are plentiful. There is the exotic Victoria Street Market with its aromas and colors of the East.

There is incense in the air; the spices are strong and alluring, the fish market is colorful, and there are many stalls with ceramics, baskets, brass trinkets, materials, and snacks.

Or, for an opposite experience, head to the tranquil and quiet Botanical Gardens with its excellent choice of palms, orchids, and cycads in a nice and natural setting.

The city center offers the interesting Francis Farewell Square, where the City Hall holds center stage. Take a seat on one of the benches and watch the color and charm of the people passing by.

Golden Mile Beach
Golden Mile Beachfront (photo: Joe Louthan)

Similarly, the Golden Miles beachfront, just a 10-minute walk away, is an exotic place to meander, with piers jutting out into the rolling waves of the Indian Ocean, giving you the chance to see surfers from a unique angle.

There are street hawkers along the promenade selling all sorts of African arts, and the colors are truly dazzling.

There is also a Japanese Garden that is well manicured and offers an oasis of calm and tranquillity along the northern side of the beachfront.

uShaka Marine World at the south end of the Golden Mile is a recent development and hosts the largest aquarium in the southern hemisphere.

While the entrance fee is stiff, you can still wander through the shopping and restaurant complex at no cost and amaze yourself at the man-made ship which holds the aquarium, or take a coffee at one of the restaurants that face out to the Indian Ocean and see the large cargo ships enter and leave the Port of Durban, which is the largest in Africa.

Morningside is an interesting residential and commercial area popular with artists, cafes, and live music venues. You can pop into the Artisan Contemporary Gallery, which hosts some interesting art, sculpture, cutlery, ceramics, and fabrics.

Hare Krishna Temple of Understanding
Hare Krishna Temple of Understanding (photo: Keith Marran)

For the spiritually orientated, there is the Hare Krishna Temple of Understanding, which is tranquil and serene, as well as the beautiful Mosque in Grey and West Streets.

There is also St. Thomas’s Church and St. Peter’s Church for quiet, meditative contemplation.

Durban is a great place to spend a few days if you are on a backpacking budget. There is a lot to see at little to no cost, while meals and drinks at restaurants are affordable and always tasty, offering excellent value for money.

If you’re looking to make a trip out to Durban and need a travel buddy, you can always find one on Gumtree.

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This post was brought to you by Gumtree South Africa.

Living and Teaching in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The whole reason I went to University was that I knew I wanted to work and live abroad. Initially, the goal was Japan; however, that changed when I realized how much more there is out there. Eventually, I decided on Cambodia for many reasons!

The Royal Palace during the mourning of King Sihanouk
The Royal Palace during the mourning of King Sihanouk

If you're looking at leaving your home country short or long-term, or you're simply searching for that next challenge, be sure to visit the Kingdom of Wonder.

Table of Contents

  • Making the Decision
  • Preparing for Emigration
  • Cambodia
  • Visas, Simplified
  • Finding a Place to Live
  • Internet in Phnom Penh
  • Getting Around
  • Applying for Work

Making the Decision

For many, teaching English is a stopgap before moving on to other ventures; for others, it's a way of traveling in a slightly different way.

I decided that I didn't want to return to England and that after a couple of years of being 'out there,' I had to make up my mind.

Cold winters and a weak job market in Europe gave me the impetus to find somewhere to settle down, somewhere more economical and without snow.

A family walks through Wat Bottom Park
A family walking through Wat Bottom Park

Preparing for Emigration

Many countries require that you have a degree (taught in English) to gain employment in the ESL (English as a Second Language) field.

On top of that, the teaching qualification you get will impact heavily on the schools you can apply to, as well as the wage you'll be offered.

Although it's not necessary to be a native speaker, it'll undoubtedly help you get into the best schools.

There are plenty of cheap online TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) courses you can do; however, they aren't excellent preparation for real-life classroom teaching.

I'd heartily recommend the CELTA or TESOL courses. Each takes four weeks (Mon-Fri) and should consist of 120 hours of contact.

This involves teaching, observing your peers, developing lesson plans, and participating in training sessions where you're taught how to teach.

I did the CELTA course at the British Council in Krakow. Their facilities are second-to-none. There are plenty of resources to help you, and interactive whiteboards and materials to assist in your lessons.

In total, you are graded on six hours of actual teaching time. It's an intensive course, but the sense of accomplishment at the end of the month makes it worth it.

Krakow's market square, Rynek G?ówny. (photo: Wikipedia)
Krakow's market square, Rynek Gówny. (photo: Wikipedia)

Cambodia

I'd never visited Cambodia before going there to teach. I went on the recommendation of a friend and found myself enamored with everything about it. The culture, nature, and atmosphere of the place are unlike anywhere else I'd been before.

A country of 15 million people, most of whom live in the countryside, has nothing but smiles and rolling green plains when you venture out.

Visas, Simplified

Easily the most significant benefit for those wanting to teach there is the ease with which you get the business/work visa (required for teaching and staying long-term).

Upon arrival at the airport (or the land border), you pay $25 for a business visa, which can be infinitely extended while in the country.

This is far easier than Myanmar (Burma) and Thailand, where you have to leave the country every month or two if you wish to work there.

Some schools will pay for your work visa extensions; some won't. Six months works out to around $145, a year just shy of $300.

Both of those visas are multiple entries (so you can leave the country and return). However, visa extensions for less than six months are not.

If you have to extend your visa, I recommend Lucky Lucky Motorbikes on Monivong Blvd (where it connects to Street 182) - it's the same price as doing it yourself, yet they take all the hassle away.

Monivong Boulevard which runs through the centre of Phnom Penh. Photo from Wikipedia
Monivong Boulevard, which runs through the center of Phnom Penh. Photo from Wikipedia

Finding a Place to Live

Initially, I stayed a couple of months in Lazy Gecko Cafe (& Guesthouse) back in 2011.

Then, the weekly rate was $42 for a double room with a fan and shower, split between a friend who worked out as $21 a week. Here are a few recommendations, though there are many more:

  • OKAY Guesthouse: Guess what? It's okay. It's fine. It's adequate. A simple place to sleep that offers no-frills
  • Lazy Gecko Cafe: basic, clean, and the staff are nice, similar in price to OKAY Guesthouse, and only a couple of doors down on Street 258
  • Eighty8 Backpackers: an upmarket hostel with a pool and excellent music, $7 dorms aren't even close to being the cheapest, but you get what you pay for
  • Velkommen Guesthouse: very central, affordable rooms

Apartment hunting can be a bit of a challenge, given the numerous places around the city of varying quality.  

Most likely, you'll go through an 'agency' (a couple of guys who take you to places and will be paid a commission by the landlord), who do all the legwork for you.

They know where the apartments for rent are and ideally will only take you to ones with your requirements. For me, it was two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a balcony. I saw around ten places before finding the one I moved into.

The view from my balcony
The view from my balcony

Your friend in this situation is BongThom.com, a Craigslist for Cambodia.

You'll come across ridiculously priced places and reasonable ones - the idea is to get in touch with a few of the people advertising there to take you to these places. They'll all have motorbikes and may take you on the back.

The Phnom Penh Housing group on Facebook is also very active and helpful, generally with good photos. It's ideal to find a house share if you're also looking for friends, and to ask questions before venturing out.

Otherwise, I'd recommend your first investment be a bicycle - check BongThom.com, the Phnom Penh Classifieds Group on Facebook, and the bicycle shops near Orussey Market (just west on Street 182 from Movivong).

You should be able to pick up a Cambodian bicycle (a couple of gears, a basket, and a lock) for around $40 from a shop, a little less in the classifieds.

My first apartment was a two-bedroom unit with attached bathrooms, a decent-sized kitchen, and a living room with a balcony (1.75m x 5m) on the fourth floor, for a frame of reference.

Very clean and modern, and furnished with durable beds and mattresses, air-conditioners in the rooms, and wicker furniture in the living room.

My living room with balcony to the right
My living room with a balcony to the right

Friends had rented apartments from $250 (one bedroom) to $500 (western-style with a flatscreen TV, carpet, and very comfortable couches, a dining table, and chairs).

Expect to pay one month's rent as a deposit, with the contract written in both Khmer (Cambodian) and English.

Typically, landlords will charge you 1,000 Riel (25 cents) per kWh; however, the actual price is 720 Riel (18 cents). I wish you all the luck in the world trying to pay the actual price!

It's normal to pay $5 for TV/trash collection, though that figure may vary. There are no gas bills, as the stoves connect to gas canisters that you have to replace every three months or so.

My bedroom. Air-conditioners are highly recommended during the worst of the summer. Mosquito blinds are usually built in. Sheets are not usually provided
My bedroom. Air-conditioners are highly recommended during the worst of the summer. Mosquito blinds are usually built-in. Sheets are not traditionally provided

Tap water in Cambodia is clean and drinkable, but I still prefer the big 20L bottles with a tap on the bottom.

They cost $6 ($5 for the bottle, $1 for the water). When you run out, take it back to a shop and swap it for a full one for $1. If you can't carry it up your stairs, you can hire a moto or tuk-tuk driver to carry it up for a dollar.

Internet in Phnom Penh

There are a few providers in Phnom Penh, each of varying quality:

  • ONLINE: fast, cheap, excellent customer service, the recommended provider in Cambodia.
  • Ezecom: expensive and slower than other ISPs (Internet Service Providers), but reliable. Marketed as a business internet provider.
  • Digi: free initial connection, very cheap ($12 for their basic package), one month free, but many reports of bad customer service and network throttling (slowing the download speeds in peak hours).
  • Telecom Cambodia was my first ISP in Cambodia, offering reasonable prices and consistent service for the most part. However, setting up initially was a hassle because they didn't set up the internet the first time. It took a lot of arguing to get them to come out and fix the problems.

Don't expect high-speed internet, but it's more than usable. You will be provided a modem; however, if you want WiFi, you will need to buy your own router. Computer stores on Monivong and in Sorya Mall sell TP-Link ones for around $30-$35.

Getting Around

If you don't have a bicycle or motorbike (available for rent from $40/month), or you plan to go out, then there are hundreds of tuk-tuks (motorcycles with a carriage on the back) and motorbike taxis to take you wherever you like.

Prices are not set, so ask others what they pay. For example, from the airport to the center is around $5 by tuk-tuk (it takes about half an hour) or $3 by motodop (motorbike taxi).

Usually, a motodop ride will cost around one or two dollars. Tuk-tuks another dollar on top. If there are more people (you can generally get two people on the back of a motodop and anything up to six westerners in a tuk-tuk), then pay a bit more.

Agree on a price before you get in. There are metered taxi services in Phnom Penh, but you'll have to call if you want one, as most people use motodops, tuk-tuks, and even rickshaws to get around.

See also: Backpacking in Cambodia

A Cambodian tuk-tuk. A motorbike with carriage on the back - we used one to move house, total cost less than $5 to take everything we owned
A Cambodian tuk-tuk. A motorbike with a carriage on the back - we used one to move house, total cost less than $5 to take everything we owned

Applying for Work

Whether you're trying to earn a little travel money, freshly qualified from the various institutions worldwide, or an experienced teacher, there's a school for you.

Term times vary, so you may be waiting a few weeks or months before starting work, but there's plenty out there.

ACE (Australian Centre for Education)

One of the best options in Phnom Penh (and Siem Reap), they cover your visa renewals and offer a basic salary of $20 per hour of teaching time.

They have four terms throughout the year, taking an extended vacation over Christmas. A degree and CELTA/TESOL (NEAS-accredited only) are required.

If your teaching qualification is from LanguageCorps, for example, ACE will not hire you, so be careful with the course you choose to give you the best chance of employment.

PUC (Pannasastra University of Cambodia)

PUC has many campuses across Phnom Penh, pays average, and is a sound basis for gaining that all-important first year of experience of teaching

There are many more schools, but some come and go, change names, or aren't easy to find online. The Cambodian Yellow Pages provides many addresses and contact details.

Your best bet is to print off a stack of resumes and note down the addresses of all the institutes and schools you want to go to, and negotiate a price for a few hours with a motodop who will take you to all of them.

I'd recommend avoiding those with ridiculous names such as American Idol School, Disney School, and Angry Birds Foreign Language School (which looks like it's based out of a shed).

ACE Santhor Mok Campus
ACE Santhor Mok Campus
ACE Samdech Pan Campus
ACE Samdech Pan Campus

I spent over a year in Phnom Penh during my first visit, taking a term off to travel around Malaysia, Japan, and Taiwan. The whole experience set me on the path to living and working abroad.

Moving abroad doesn't have to be stressful or confusing, especially when you choose Cambodia! Fly in, get that work visa, and start applying for jobs.

The Shrimp Trucks on Oahu's North Shore

The Hawaii shrimp plate!
The Hawaii shrimp plate!

If you plan to drive around the island of Oahu when you visit (which is a great thing to do, by the way), you'll undoubtedly hear about the famous "Kahuku shrimp trucks."

Many of these shrimp truck restaurants, each with the same menu and similar prices, have unique secret recipes and sauces.

If you love shrimp, you'll want to make a strategic shrimp stop when you drive around the island.

Lining up at the shrimp truck restaurant
Lining up at the shrimp truck restaurant

Kahuku is a tiny town located on the North Shore of Oahu, just a short drive from the famous Sunset Beach (also pretty close to Laie, where you'll find Hukilau Cafe).

Though there are some fantastic beaches to the east and west, the town is not known for its beaches.

Instead, when anyone from Hawaii hears the name Kahuku, an image of shrimp probably comes to mind.

The area around the sleepy town of Kahuku is famous on Oahu for being home to many freshwater shrimp farms.

Due to the high costs of land, shrimp farms haven't done as well as they did in the past, but the fame of shrimp in Kahuku remains.

Having little more to offer than a bunch of freshwater shrimp farms and the main highway (Kamehameha Highway), which leads along the coastline and goes straight through town, someone had the great idea to open a restaurant where shrimp lovers could stop on the side of the road to enjoy some of the wonderful fresh shrimp.

In 1993, Giovanni's opened as the first shrimp truck restaurant in Kahuku.

It didn't take long for the brilliant idea to catch on, and soon other shrimp trucks began to open as well.

Nowadays, there are many different shrimp trucks to choose from, and while Kahuku is still the most famous town, you'll find shrimp restaurants from Kahuku to Haleiwa, stretching the entire North Shore.

Decorations at Giovanni's
Decorations at Giovanni's

Most of the shrimp trucks in Hawaii are pretty similar in style.

You go up to the truck, place your order in the window, and within a few minutes, you'll have a scrumptious-looking plate of shrimp ready to be devoured.

All the cooking is done inside the truck, and there's usually a few or more benches and tables so you can eat right then and there.

The last time I was in Hawaii, I chose to eat at Giovanni's in Haleiwa, the second branch of the well-known original.

At the peak of lunch, many famous shrimp trucks can get extremely busy, with long lines of customers and all the tables packed.

I decided to go early to avoid the traffic, arriving just as they opened at 10 am.

Related: Planning for Oahu on a Budget

Shrimp scampi
Shrimp scampi

The menu at Giovanni's is quite simple. You have a choice of shrimp scampi, hot and spicy shrimp, or lemon butter shrimp.

There's also a garlic hot dog on their menu, but if you don't love shrimp, you shouldn't eat at a shrimp truck in the first place.

I decided to go for the shrimp scampi, a dozen shrimp sautéed in olive oil and garlic and seasoned with little more than a hint of salt and lemon juice.

My plate also came with two scoops of rice, and a side of hot sauce, which I requested.

The immediate aroma of garlic was incredible, and you could see the layer of minced garlic caked onto each shrimp.

The shrimp was incredibly garlicky and fried until cooked through but not rubbery. They were a little bit on the oily side, but still really good.

Giovanni's is just one of the numerous shrimp trucks on the North Shore of Oahu.

Each truck has its recipes and its own set of devout followers.

No matter which truck you choose, if you're a shrimp lover, you're in for a real treat on the North Shore.

Senso-ji: Tokyo's Oldest and Most Significant Temple

Senso-ji Temple
Senso-ji Temple

Tokyo's Senso-ji Temple is one of the most well-known religious sites and attractions in the city.

Thousands of both tourists and local Japanese who make the pilgrimage from throughout the country, visit every day to pay respect.

Senso-ji is a wonderful place to experience the ancient side of culture and religious practice in Tokyo, without having to break the budget.

Planning to explore more of Japan? Book budget-friendly train passes here!

Passing into the Main Hall
Passing into the Main Hall

Senso-ji is the oldest and one of the most significant temples in Tokyo. The temple is located adjacent to the Sumida River, in an area of Tokyo known as Asakusa.

According to the official story, it was on a quiet morning in 628 when Hinokuma Hamanari and his brother Takenari were fishing, and all of a sudden they felt something heavy in their net.

They pulled in their net to find a statue of Bodhisattva Kannon, a Buddhist deity who is often depicted as a female and known for compassion and being responsive to people's needs and prayers.

The head of the village, Haji no Nakatomo, realized that this was a truly significant find and a blessing.

He therefore dedicated his life to the Bodhisattva Kannon, by first remodeling his personal home into a temple.

In 645, Shokai Shonin a traveling Buddhist priest, visited the small fishing town of Asakusa, and decided to build Kannondo Hall dedicated to the Bodhisattva Kannon.

The priest also made the decision, which he received in a dream, that the statue itself should not be seen by humans - which remains today.

In World War II, the Main Hall of the temple was destroyed, but it has since been rebuilt into what it is today.

The temple remains one of the most sacred sites in Japan, and a place that attracts over 30 million people per year.

Kaminarimon Gate
Kaminarimon Gate

One morning, during my visit to Tokyo, I decided to head over to Senso-ji to see this important site.

Walking in from the south, I first passed through the Kaminarimon Gate. The gate was built in 942 and includes a huge red lantern marking the entrance.

Incense cleansing
Incense cleansing

Before getting to the Main Hall, you'll first see a giant incense burner.

Many Buddhist and Shinto followers, before entering the Main Hall, will first purchase a bundle of incense, light it on fire, extinguish it by waving it (instead of blowing), and then place the incense in the main burner in front of the Main Hall.

They then take their hands and direct some of the incense smoke over their body's, a gesture that is believed to cleanse ones body and also symbolize healing.

Another purification process you'll notice at Senso-ji is the water cleansing.

To the right side of the Main Hall is a fountain of water where followers rinse their hands and mouth with the pure water to symbolize cleansing.

Inside the Main Hall of the temple, people toss a coin into the coin box, bow twice, clap twice, and then bow once more before saying a short prayer.

Outer shopping street at Senso-ji
Outer shopping street at Senso-ji

Another part of Senso-ji that I enjoyed, was walking around the outskirts of the temple.

The entire neighborhood and the surrounding alleys are lined with stores selling all sorts of souvenirs and relics, as well as quite a few vendors selling Japanese snacks and goodies.

Japanese sweet bread
Japanese sweet bread

I decided to sample some traditional Japanese sweet bread at a shop right next to the temple that was continually busy with Japanese students.

The bread was extremely light and fluffy, and had just the right amount of sweetness to it. Make sure you taste a few snacks when walking around Senso-ji!

As one of the most popular destinations in Tokyo, as well as being one of the most significant religious sites in Japan, a visit to Senso-ji should be on your list of things to do when you're in Tokyo.

Last Minute Easter Camping Getaways

Britz Voyager Camper

The Easter weekend is creeping up quickly but that doesn't mean that it is too late to plan an exciting holiday over the four-day break.

While some people may take a quick trip to see friends and family, those after a larger adventure should look no further than an exciting campervan trip.

Hire company, Britz, offer campervans to suit all types of travelers. To illustrate, the Britz “Explorer” campervan is a great option for families or small groups.

It comfortably sleeps four people and has a built-in kitchen, including fridge/freezer, a 4-burner gas stove as well as full bathroom facilities.

With your mode of transport sorted, we’ve compiled the top four destinations for Easter 2014, giving you the freedom to tailor your holiday to your group.

Jervis Bay

Jervis Bay is one of the hidden gems of NSW’s South Coast.

Said to have the whitest sand in the world as well as crystal clear water, there is a lot to do here over the Easter break.

Jump on one of the expertly skippered chartered cruise tours to catch a glimpse of wild dolphins, seals or migrating humpback whales just off the coast, or hike to the ruins of the Cape St George Lighthouse in the Booderee National Park.

The town offers plenty of camping spots, allowing you to park your campervan within walking distance to the beaches.

For example, the Jervis Bay Caravan Park has powered sites starting from as low as $30AUD ($28 USD) a night.

Surfer's Paradise
Surfer's Paradise (photo: David Lee)

Surfers Paradise

Surfers Paradise is an iconic beach town in Queensland’s Gold Coast and from April 2 - 26, 2014, the city holds its annual ‘Surfers Paradise Festival’.

Focussing on the Easter weekend, you can catch all the action of the Australian Street Entertainment Championships, which is a four-day tournament featuring clowns, mimes, jugglers, and dancers.

The whole event makes for a wild and exciting carnival atmosphere.

If talent competitions are not your thing then why not check out some of Australia’s best theme parks?

Until June 30 you can pick up a 28-day unlimited entry pass from only $99AUD ($92 USD), which gives you access to Wet and Wild, Sea World, Movie World, and Dream World.

Each theme park offers thrilling rides and spectacular experiences for young and old.

Toowoomba

Beautiful Toowoomba is Australia’s largest inland city and has been a traditionally popular destination over the Easter long weekend.

The reason is the vibrant ‘Easterfest’, an annual three-day music festival that takes place in Queens Park.

A three-day pass will only set you back $140AUD ($130) and this year you can catch Aussie band, Evermore, headlining the stage and pushing their latest album, ‘Follow the Sun’.

Joining them are the Underoaths spinoff band, The Almost, as well as Young&Free and crowd favorite, New Empire.

There will also be Xtreme sports on show, including freestyle BMX and skateboarding.

Camping is available at the festival grounds but space is limited so make sure you book early.

Bendigo

If you would prefer to head south over the long weekend, then set the GPS for the Victorian town of Bendigo.

Over Easter, Bendigo puts on a show like no other, coming alive with activities and attractions for everyone.

The oldest running festival in Australia, the Bendigo Festival offers everything from magicians and performing arts shows.

Check out the workshops on African Drumming and SkateBeat, and don’t miss the famous Bendigo Easter Parade featuring Sun Loong, the giant Chinese dragon.

Camping in Bendigo is as easy as setting up shop at Big4 Bendigo Ascot Holiday Park.

Powered sites for the campervan begin at $40AUD ($37 USD) during peak seasons and the Park is located just four kilometers from the town center.

No matter where you choose to spend Easter, enjoying four full days of freedom is something to look forward to.

You can choose to be as relaxed or busy as you like, and choosing a campervan gives you the freedom to do what you want.

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This post was brought to you by Britz.

Online Taxman: The Budget-Friendly Expat Tax Service

The beginning of April signals the final push for most Americans filing their taxes.

A common misconception amongst Americans traveling extensively or living abroad is the idea that once you're beyond the borders of the United States, there's no need to file annual tax returns.

Out of sight, out of mind, right?

Online Taxman

Unfortunately, unless you renounce your US citizenship or make under $10,000 as a single filer or $20,000 married filing jointly, you're on the hook for filing a return. That's the bad news.

For Americans living abroad, there are good opportunities to take advantage of tax-saving strategies.

However, there are increased filing requirements for people with foreign bank accounts and foreign companies, making hiring a professional all the more worthwhile.

The good news is there are internet-based tax preparation services like Online Taxman, which cater specifically to expat tax situations.

Not only do they have a global reach (they've helped expats in over 100 countries), but by leveraging the internet, they're able to reduce the cost of doing business and pass along those savings to customers in the form of lower prices.

Founded by Vincenzo Villamena, a Certified Public Accountant (CPA) with "Big 4" audit and corporate accounting experience, Online Taxman is focused on providing support to American expats, residents, and non-residents with US interests.

I met Vincenzo earlier this year in Medellín, where he gave a free tax presentation to a group of expats and entrepreneurs at the Espacio coworking space.

Not only did I find the information in the helpful presentation, but I also took him up on his invitation for a free one-on-one consultation so I could ask questions specific to my situation.

Last year alone, I formed two US-based Limited Liability Corporations, the first being RTW Media LLC for my two blogs and books, and the second being Travel Blog Success LLC, a partnership.

Vincenzo Villamena
Vincenzo Villamena giving a tax presentation at the Espacio coworking space

The second time I met Vincenzo was in a popular café for my free consultation, where I peppered him with questions.

In years past, I've always relied on a mix of my research, my Dad's advice, and tips from friends and fellow bloggers who did their research or paid for professional help.

My Frankenstein approach toward tax planning has always left me feeling less than confident.

After all, I was basing where I spent my time each year on the Physical Presence Test for the Foreign Earned Income Exclusion. What if I didn't understand it correctly?

Figuring out what can and can't be claimed as businesses expenses as a travel blogger has been another constant challenge.

Our meeting at the café left me even more confident in Vincenzo's ability to save me time, energy, and hopefully money.

For the first time in my life, I hired a tax professional.

Working with Vincenzo to prepare both my business partnership return and my personal return has been straightforward.

I don't even know what we would've done without his help, as it's not possible to file a business partnership return online through Turbo Tax or H&R Block.

You need to download software, and it's only available for Windows PCs (I use a Mac).

My partner and I are currently based outside the USA, so it would've been a hassle in more ways than one. His help with that process alone has saved me countless hours.

In January, I'd used Turbo Tax to fill out much of my personal tax information for 2013.

I was able to get an idea of my liability very quickly, and it was higher than I expected, considering I earned less in 2013 than in 2012.

I let the information sit, as the return for my partnership had to be filed first.

Vincenzo completed the partnership return very quickly.

He then moved on to my personal return, where he calculated my liability as being roughly 30% higher than what I had come up with on my own in Turbo Tax.

This disparity alarmed me until he offered to review the data I entered in Turbo Tax.

Within 24 hours, he'd found multiple mistakes. Once those were corrected, the software reflected a similar amount owed as he'd calculated independently.

I realized Turbo Tax might seem easy to use, but there's still plenty of room for user error.

In addition to feeling confident that a tax professional was preparing my return, it also felt great to have someone I could count on for questions.

Some of those questions led to me calculating my business travel expenses (specifically lodging and meals) differently than in 2012.

This change alone will save me over $500, which is more than enough to make up for the cost of hiring professional help.

Through my experience working with Vincenzo at Online Taxman, not only have I've learned a lot and saved money, but I also feel more confident than ever that the return he's filing on my behalf is accurate and thus less likely to trigger an audit (a common fear amongst small business owners).

Additional Benefits to using Online Taxman:

  • Free, no-obligation consultation with a CPA
  • Free review of your tax returns for the last three years
  • Free IRS representation in the case of an audit
  • A commitment to answering your questions within 24 hours
  • 100% money back guarantee

If you're an American expat living abroad, a non-US citizen, or even an American living in the US who's simply looking for low-cost, high-quality tax help, I'm happy to recommend Vincenzo and his team of qualified CPAs at Online Taxman.

_________

I received a discounted rate in exchange for my honest review of Online Taxman's services.

5 Top Wine Regions of the World

I've always been fond of drinking wine, but it wasn't until my trip around the world that I had the chance to visit two of the world's top wine regions, Stellenbosch and Bordeaux. Both experiences were enjoyable.

Backsberg Wine Estate
Backsberg Wine Estate

It's hard to go wrong with an activity that involves being shuttled from one beautiful winery to the next, tasting several varieties at each stop, learning about wine production, and hopefully getting to nibble on fresh local cheeses too.

The following five wine regions are on five different continents and showcase the spread of wine culture beyond Europe to the rest of the world.

I've had the pleasure to visit the first three, and the last two are ones I hope to experience in the future.

Table of Contents

  • 1. Stellenbosch, South Africa
  • 2. Bordeaux, France
  • 3. Mendoza, Argentina
  • 4. Barossa Valley, Australia
  • 5. Napa Valley, California

1. Stellenbosch, South Africa

The wine probably isn't the first thing that pops into your mind when I say "South Africa," but the gorgeous region of Stellenbosch, located 30 miles (50 kilometers) outside Cape Town, is home to dozens of wineries.

The soil composition, hilly terrain, and Mediterranean climate make South Africa's second oldest European settlement a prime spot to grow grapes.

Upon arriving in South Africa, a wine tour of Stellenbosch was the first thing I did. Whether you're staying at a hostel or a hotel, they're easy to book and fun.

The first winery we visited, Fairview, featured a goat standing on a winding staircase encircling a stone tower. Random, but they know everyone loves goats!

After taking photos of the goat, we were treated to our first wine tasting, which included information about vintages, tips on how to hold the wine glasses properly, and evaluate and taste wine properly.

Afterward, they also offered a cheese tasting as well. It was heaven.

Our guide took us to another three or four wineries, one of which we ate lunch on an outdoor deck with lovely views of the surrounding vineyards.

Winter in St. Emilion, Bordeaux
Winter in St. Emilion, Bordeaux

2. Bordeaux, France

During my two months of overland travel through South Africa, I met a young French couple from Bordeaux.

We got along well, and they quickly invited me to visit them when I reached Europe. An invitation to stay with locals in one of the world's most famous wine cities?

I responded in the affirmative, and a few months later, they picked me up at the airport and whisked me away to my first big dinner in Bordeaux.

The next day, they introduced me to St. Emilion, a medieval town surrounded by vineyards.

Even though it was mid-December, there was snow on the ground and no grapes on the vine, we still had a wonderful time.

We stopped at a local winery for a brief tour and tasting, wandered the streets trying cheeses at the cute cheese shops, and had a delicious lunch with a roaring wood fire at a local restaurant.

Old barrels decorate the property of a winery
Old barrels decorate the property of a winery.

3. Mendoza, Argentina

After spending several months in Patagonia and Buenos Aires, I traveled west overland by bus through Rosario and Cordoba to Mendoza.

It was autumn, and the leaves on the trees and grapevines were all changing colors. I did two wine tours during my four-day stay.

The first was similar to my experience in Stellenbosch. I was picked up at the hostel in a minivan full of travelers and taken to the vineyards.

The second was a bicycle wine tour, and we visited three different wineries from the first one I did.

Mendoza is flat, so riding the bikes didn't require much effort, which is essential given the copious amounts of wine you may be drinking.

Both tours stopped at Cava de Cano for lunch, serving typical Argentine cuisine in a tapas (small dish) format.

I can't recommend it highly enough, but the all-you-can-eat (and drink) lunch is best attended on tour, as it's otherwise quite expensive.

A few days later, I visited Concha y Toro (makers of Casillero del Diablo) outside Santiago, Chile.

Barossa Valley
Barossa Valley (photo: Stephen Michael Barnett)

4. Barossa Valley, Australia

The Barossa Valley, 35 miles (56 kilometers) from Adelaide, was founded by German settlers and is one of Australia's oldest wine regions.

Primarily known for producing high-quality Shiraz, some of the vines planted there are 100 to 150 years old.

It's also home to Jacob's Creek, the first commercial vineyard (dating back to 1847) and one of my favorite brands before my round-the-world journey.

Unfortunately, due to time constraints, I only made it as far south as Melbourne. Otherwise, the Barossa Valley would've been the first significant wine region I visited.

Castello di Amorosa Winery
Castello di Amorosa Winery (photo: Jim G)

5. Napa Valley, California

Napa Valley is the premier wine-growing region in the United States. While winemaking records date back to the 19th century, the area didn't rise to prominence until the 1960s.

In addition to tasting, drinking, and buying excellent wines, Napa Valley is home to some of the country's best restaurants, including the famous French Laundry.

Today, there are over 450 wineries growing grapes, and the region receives four and a half million visitors a year.

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This post was brought to you by Cellarbrations.

Izakaya in Tokyo: The Basics of Drinking and Eating at Japanese Pubs

Izakaya in Tokyo, Japan
Izakaya in Tokyo, Japan

[I]f you love to drink and eat, there's hardly a place you'll love and feel more comfortable at than a Japanese izakaya.

There are hundreds, maybe even thousands of these wonderful Japanese pubs in Tokyo, all serving an array of refreshing alcoholic beverages and a menu of delicious snacks.

Planning to explore more of Japan? Book budget-friendly train passes here!

Japanese beer!
Japanese beer!

What is an Izakaya?

In the shortest explanation possible, an izakaya is a Japanese pub or bar that serves alcoholic beverages and food that tastes good with alcohol.

Drinks, tasty little plates of food, unwinding from a serious day at work, and good socializing with friends, is what going to an izakaya is all about.

When you're in Tokyo, finding an izakaya is not difficult, partly because there are so many of them, but also because they are normally marked by signature red paper lanterns (which read "izakaya" in Japanese) which dangle from the doorway and roof.

Izakaya under the railroad track at Yurakucho
Izakaya under the railroad track at Yurakucho

A Japanese izakaya can be anything from a tiny little hole-in-the-wall that's dark and smokey with only a few bar seats, to a huge commercial establishment with many tables and chairs, plus everything in between.

Most Tokyo izakayas open their doors in the late afternoon, catering especially to office workers who get out of work, and head straight to an izakaya for a few drinks, pre-dinner snacks, and chance to laugh and chat with their colleagues.

In Tokyo you'll see many izakaya customers still wearing suits, and very business professional looking.

After you sit down at an izakaya, the first thing you'll want to do is get a drink. There's often the full range of beverages available, including sake and whiskey, and a variety of refreshing Japanese beers like Asahi, Kirin, and Sapporo.

Plate of yakitori in Tokyo
Plate of yakitori in Tokyo

Drink in hand, you can then take your time to navigate through the menu to see what looks good.

Think of the food at a Japanese izakaya like the equivalent of Spanish tapas; small plates of tasty salty food that are meant to be shared with everyone at your table.

Eggplant with miso sauce
Eggplant with miso sauce

Some of the popular foods to eat at izakayas include sashimi, karaage - fried chicken, yakitori - skewers of grilled meat, okonomiyaki - savory pancakes, and gyoza - dumplings.

Some of the larger modern izakayas have an incredibly extensive range of food available, and other smaller izakayas might only have a few house specialities or only serve something like yakitori.

At most izakayas, you have to pay per dish or drink you order, but there are a number of well-known izakayas in Tokyo where you pay a flat fee, and for a designated amount of time (usually 2 hours or so), you can eat and drink as much as you please.

If you're really ready to drink and eat, and do it fast, this is a good option to check out.

While dining at restaurants in Tokyo is often a quiet peaceful experience where you shouldn't raise your voice too loud to respect other diners, izakayas are the complete opposite.

They are usually loud places, with each table talking and laughing and having fun.

If you love to drink and eat, you'll love a Japanese izakaya
If you love to drink and eat, you'll love a Japanese izakaya

In Tokyo, there are countless izakayas, but underneath the railroad tracks and slotted into small walking alleys, are where izakayas seem to cluster.

When you're in Tokyo, here are a few well-known izakaya areas to explore:

  • Yurakucho - Underneath the railroad tracks
  • Koenji - Near Shinjuku
  • Ueno - Within Ameya-Yokocho market

Experiencing an izakaya when you're in Tokyo, or elsewhere in Japan, is not only a great place to have a drink and some delicious food, but it's also a cultural glimpse into the drinking and social scene of Japanese culture.

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This post was brought to you by the Bottle-O.

Top 5 Essentials for Living Home Free

Arriving at a long-term rental apartment in a foreign country is a little like going on a blind date. You never know exactly what you're going to get.

Experience has taught my husband and me that tucking a few essentials into our luggage can keep a new short-term rental relationship from going south before it even gets started!

Lynne and Tim in Venice
Lynne and Tim in Venice

We have lived for almost three years in short-term rentals in Europe, South America, Mexico, and the United States, enjoying what we call our "home free" life.

In 2011 we sold our house in central California, ditched most of our furniture, put our treasures in storage, and set out for countries where we wanted to live like locals for a month or more, moving from place to place according to the weather and our desire.

Being unencumbered by the pressures of homeownership set us free to enjoy a more exciting life in retirement.

We quickly learned that vacation rental living poses particular packing challenges, different from the ones that face tourists staying in hotels.

Locating places to live is just the start, and we have found that HomeAway.com and VRBO.com have given us great results.

Almost all of our temporary homes have been comfortable, true to the owners' listings, and well provisioned.

Still, there are certain essentials that we take along to help us adapt more quickly to new environments.

Table of Contents

  • 1. The Check-In List
  • 2. Knife Sharpener
  • 3. Miniature Spices
  • 4. Clotheslines and Sink Stoppers
  • 5. HDMI Cables and Speakers

1. The Check-In List

Since we usually arrive when we've been traveling, are tired, and are more forgetful than usual, the person who knows everything may have vanished before we have had a chance to get the answers we need.

Details like how the air conditioning or heating works, where the kitchen light switch is hidden, and trying out the internet and TV are essential!

This is why we created the Check-In List. We take the list along and never let the owner/manager leave us until he's ticked off all the boxes.

Readers tell us that it has been invaluable to them, and some have contributed important items that never even occurred to us.

The list, along with many entries about our Home Free life, can be found on my blog, www.homefreeadventures.com.

Lunch at a Paris Apartment
Lunch at a Paris Apartment

2. Knife Sharpener

Why you might ask, would a person pack a knife sharpener?

Because almost without exception, knives in rental units are dull.

It's a real problem for people who stay more than a few days and intend to cook meals often.

We discovered early on that bringing a small, lightweight knife sharpener is easier than having knives sharpened and certainly cheaper than buying them in every place we visit.

We found a good, lightweight, inexpensive one on Amazon called AccuSharp 001 Knife Sharpener.

3. Miniature Spices

Speaking of kitchens, setting up a pantry is one of the most expensive aspects of moving from country to country. Spices are pricey, and dragging bulky jars from country to country isn't practical.

We found a portable tin box containing twenty tiny round containers filled with small amounts of various spices at World Market, so we can add a little Chinese Five Spice or cumin when we want a change of palate.

A pinch of oregano can improve the dullest jarred spaghetti sauce!

4. Clotheslines and Sink Stoppers

Clothes dryers that work are rare in many European countries, so we have become accustomed to regularly festooning our living spaces with underwear, socks, and jeans.

Our plaited rubber clothesline is a treasured possession, which can hook on to just about anything and requires no clothespins.

Since many rental places are more loaded with charm than plumbing excellence, we also carry a flat rubber drain cover.

It stops up any sink for washing undies, and if we're lucky enough to have a bathtub, it's available to replace a missing tub stopper.

5. HDMI Cables and Speakers

Life on the road is exciting, but since we are permanently impermanent, we require a generous amount of downtime to refresh ourselves.

We love movies and enjoy many television shows, but watching in Turkey or France can pose a problem since we are English speakers.

Enter the HDMI cable! This essential piece of equipment makes it possible for us to download our favorite entertainment to our computers from iTunes or other providers, plug a cable into the TV, and enjoy "Downton Abbey" whether we're in Buenos Aires or Boston!

If the TV is too old to accept an HDMI cable (always a disappointment to discover), we're still not foiled because we watch on the computer and use our miniature speakers.

They plug into the computer and deliver high-quality sound in a lightweight package.

The speakers work beautifully with our iPod, too, so we can entertain ourselves with our favorite sounds no matter where we are.

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Home Sweet Anywhere

About the Author: Lynne Martin is the author of Home Sweet Anywhere, which includes many more travel tips and stories of her home-free life on the road in nine countries. It is available for preorder at http://homesweetanywhere.com.

See You in Sochi This Summer

Athens, Greece, was recently named the host city for the 2014 European Travel Blog Exchange conference.

I've never been to Greece, so I immediately bought a ticket, thus committing myself to a trans-Atlantic trip this Fall.

As I did in 2012 when the conference was held in Costa Brava, I will make a more extensive trip out of it. 

The only question is where to go and when?

Sochi Mountains by Pawel Maryanov
Sochi Mountains (photo: Pawel Maryanov)

Given the impressive display Russia put on hosting the Winter Olympics earlier this year, combined with their ever-more-progressive views on LGBT issues and commitment to an independent Ukraine free to plot its course politically, I've decided to spend my tourist dollars in Sochi this Summer.

Last week's photo essay on Roads & Kingdoms showing the streets and boardwalk full of life has only excited me more about the prospect of spending a few months in Mother Russia.

Sochi Train
Sochi Train (photo: Denis Polyakov)

It even appears as though a few stray dogs survived the pre-Olympic cull!

But beyond the thrill of visiting the site of the most expensive and warmest Winter Olympics on record, it'll also be a chance for me to re-connect with my heritage.

My Mom's side of our family hails from Russia, and I've wanted to get a feel for where some of my genes came from for quite some time now.

Botanical Gardens in Sochi by Crazy_Crow
Botanical Gardens in Sochi (photo: Crazy_Crow)

What is there to do in a Russian resort town like Sochi in Summer?

This Travel Channel article highlights some attractive options, including:

  • Swimming in the warm waters of the Black Sea
  • Visiting the Botanical Gardens, founded in 1889
  • Climbing the 2,175-foot Mount Akhun
  • Touring a tea plantation and Russia's largest trout farm
  • Go spelunking in the Vorontsovskaya cave system

Add to that the hordes of crazy fun backpackers and Russian party people who will be vacationing there this Summer, and I imagine the nightlife will be incredible to boot!

Who knows, maybe I'll even bump into President Vladimir Putin himself.

Sochi Sunset by Pawel Maryanov
Sochi Sunset (photo: Pawel Maryanov)

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If you're still reading, Happy April Fool's Day!

Traveling Iran: Persepolis, Simin Dasht and the Caspian Sea

Road trips are fundamental to Iranian culture and holidays - much more nature-based and exploratory than what I've been used to. Cave exploring, motorbike borrowing, goat farms, and night trains are part of how everyone experiences the old Persian Empire.

Persepolis
Persepolis - the monument to times long past

Going through such a tumultuous time of late, you'd be forgiven for thinking that the sanctions imposed on Iran have dented the hospitality of Persians towards their visitors.

Far from it - Iran is the most hospitable nation I've ever encountered, whether in their own country or their respective adopted lands.

I've been taken in by people at service stations on their way to Tehran, by a farming family in the middle of nowhere, and by countless CouchSurfing hosts who are the most eager to have you share their food, their homes, and their lives with you.

Friends met in Simin Dasht while traveling Iran
Friends old and new, overlooking beautiful vistas where the common language is hospitality
Shahazadeh and Omid
Shahazadeh and Omid, our impromptu friends and guides around Simin Dasht

There's a humbling feeling you repeatedly encounter, where you're treated as part of their family for the time you're with them. Any visit to a home typically involves the hosts offering a variety of treats, including fruit, vegetables, biscuits, sweets, tea, and more, as a matter of natural hospitality. You shan't go hungry in Iran.

Persepolis

The ancient empire of Persepolis has its remains less than a couple of hours from the nearest modern city, Shiraz. Two thousand five hundred years old, the mind boggles at what it must have been. Only a tiny fraction of the structure remains, along with the extinct language adorning some of the walls.

Persepolis
The remains give a good idea of how to envisage the former ceremonial capital.

You can organize tours from Shiraz or take a taxi to get there. Due to current exchange rates, you won't spend much on a day trip, and it's well worth it.

There are massive, towering pillars; views from the mountain that gave the inhabitants advance warning of any potential invaders; and tombs carved into the rock. They are such a sight to behold.

Persepolis
You can get some fascinating shots by blocking out the sun - the skies are always clear, and the sun can feel relentless. Bring lotion!

The enthusiasm with which my hosts spoke when they took me to Persepolis was nothing less than whole-hearted. This was combined with a very prideful sense of happiness that it was they who first showed me this monument to their country's history. I would learn to quickly appreciate this very Persian trait during my travels and how to reciprocate my gratitude.

Tombs at Persepolis
Tombs carved into the rock

Simin Dasht

The easiest way to travel to the smaller towns and villages of Iran is by car. Among the numerous people I befriended, I had a few friends who owned cars.

This led to invitations to travel to the capital city, Tehran, and the surrounding areas, as well as places as far as Esfahan for Persian New Year (Nowruz, the Equinox). Never turn these invitations down!

Indeed, if there's anything I took from Iran in my four months there, it's always to say yes. This attitude has taken me to places I never knew existed - who knew Iran is home to some of the most beautiful snow-capped mountains and rolling, green-hilled villages where the clouds seem to pass through you?

Simin Dasht
Unusual shapes carved into the rock by the weather

Aga, a Polish friend I met in England, came to visit me in Tehran with her fiancé, Quentin. We soon began planning our destination and found a suitable location among the mountains to the east of Tehran.

Our friend Atefe had a car and suggested that we go camping there for the night. Be aware, though, as with homes, an unmarried couple is not legally allowed to live together under the same roof. Be cautious. I never felt unsafe or at risk of anything, but it's always worth remembering in more populated areas.

Simin Dasht
Just one of many castle-like mountains you'll come across, naturally formed over thousands of years.

We soon found ourselves heading east to a small village called Simin Dasht. The road took us between clay-colored mountains, a railroad running alongside us as we delved further in. 

Gradually, the route we were taking degraded into red dirt until we felt we couldn't proceed further. A small farmhouse adjacent to the railroad drew us in just as the road ended. We set up camp just in front of the farm with two tents between us.

The tent my landlord had so willingly lent me popped up in two seconds flat, four rocks I gathered, keeping it pinned down - an essential future investment!

Camping in Simin Dasht
Our campsite for the night is by a river, not one minute away

Being in such a serene area was a welcome break from the bustling streets of Tehran. This came with the freedom to wander in any direction as if I'd been allowed to breathe again.

The odd animal wanders around with no care, impressive mountainous scenery in every direction, and a river in the middle of the valley provides irrigation for all farms. The night creeps in, and the old card games are remembered under a suspended torch in the tent.

Moonlight over Simin Dasht
The moon became our nightlight.

Atefe and I took the night to delve into the railroad tunnel carved into the mountain, a slightly risky idea, I thought!

Her protestation that there are only two passenger trains a night was accurate; however, there are far more cargo trains that would pass by our tent every hour. Thankfully, none of them came as we walked through the narrow tunnel.

Due to the clear skies, Iran offers photo opportunities at every turn, especially at dusk. I snapped a couple before retiring to bed.

Quentin, Aga, Atefe and I
Quentin, Aga, Atefe, and I, as we set off after breakfast

I awoke to find Quentin, but neither of the girls was there. Ten minutes of confusion later, we discover that they have befriended the farm owner and his family.

They invited us for breakfast and laid out a spread of tea, cheese, bread, fruit, and assorted delicious condiments. After we were suitably stuffed and shared photos of family and friends, an impromptu tour was suggested (and insisted upon).

The farm owner, Shahazadeh, and I exchanged Atefe's car for his motorbike, albeit temporarily. Visiting his family and friends along the way, we stopped off at their goat farm and were then taken up a hill in the middle of the valley-the views we were treated to were nothing short of spectacular.

Goats in Simin Dasht
Goats love these red flowers. Photo by Agnieszka Nanaszko
Simin Dasht
One of many climbable hills that gives you a great sense of the scale of the area
Kurds in Simin Dasht
Proudly Kurdish, with striking eyes that change color. Photo by Agnieszka Nanaszko

Shahazadeh and the four of us continued to search for his friend, Omid, in another small village. They took us an hour down the road, up into the mountains a little, and to the steepest hill I've ever tried to climb.

Omid rode the small motorbike straight up the hill with no fear of anything, with no care in the world. This peak and descent led to a cave hidden from the view of the road.

Cave in Simin Dasht
The ominous cave

Stalactites and crystals adorned the ceiling of the pitch-black cave as bats screeched around us. I could only ponder how chance had brought us all there. We finished the day off with Omid treating us to some of his very best motorbike wheelies before we had to set off back to Tehran.

Editor's Note: If you're interested in traveling to Iran, consider the travel services offered by Exotigo, a trusted Iranian online travel agency with a central office in Singapore. Through their web platform, you can find a large variety of Iranian hotels, domestic flights, tour packages and experiences, car rentals, and Iranian visas and travel insurance. They accept all major debit and credit cards, as well as PayPal.

Mud houses in Simin Dasht
Mud houses are ideal for the dry and hot seasons they go through, providing a cool respite from the day's work.
Roads in Simin Dasht
The guys led the way through the winding roads.
Wheelie in Simin Dasht
We clap and cheer as Omid salutes in the middle of his wheelie

Traveling North of Tehran

My second time in Iran focused on living in Tehran rather than backpacking around. When you live in a big city, you often need to escape and venture out to avoid getting cabin fever.

The one place I hadn't been to previously was north of the Caspian Sea. The name alone evokes a sense of magic for me. Surrounded by five countries, it is the largest lake (despite its name) in the world.

Atefe and I took ourselves through the mountains, finding the driving to be more than a little hair-raising at times. Sheer drops on the left side, solid rock to the right; the Iranian driving style was something I thought I was accustomed to.

It was pretty sedate for the most part until the rapid mountain turns started. People will overtake at any time, whether it's on a straight road or going around blind, mountainous corners. They will attempt anything and everything to pass a car, so you have to be alert.

I swerved out of the way just in time to save us from the possibility of a trip-ending accident and an encounter with the authorities that I'd rather not go through as a khareji (foreigner).

Javaherdeh
Up the mountains, you can find waterfalls and streams, a popular spot for Iranians to take family photos.

Further up into the mountains brought crisp, fresh air. It became cooler and cooler until clouds prevented anything more than 10 miles per hour. Driving up for a couple of hours, you ponder the effort it took to create these roads and put a mosque on top so many years ago. Descending toward the sea, the world opened up to swallow us as the landscape changed from winter to spring.

Caspian Sea in Javaherdeh
The view of the Caspian Sea from the cable car on the coast

However, our main destination lay ahead: Javaherdeh. We drove along the coast, taking a left turn that ascended steeply into the mountains. A road similar to the one in Simin Dasht took us up, but then it ended: the road came to a halt.

Taking this as a signal that this was our destination and we should probably eat, we settled at one of the few kebab restaurants along the street.

Javaherdeh
The sign on the barbecue advertises his specialty, chelo kebabs

The owner greeted us with a beaming smile and one of the best chelo & jujeh kebabs (lamb and chicken) I've ever had. We told him we were looking for a place to set up camp. He said not to worry, and he knew just the place.

After finishing dinner, he walked us through cobbled streets that could have been anywhere in Southern Europe, up a hill, and through the trees to the summit.

Javaherdeh
Javaherdeh

Waking up to Javaherdeh, which means "jewel," is beautiful. The clouds silently passed through us and layered the landscape in a way I'd never seen before.

This region is also famous for its jars of olives, fruits, and pickled foodstuffs, which you would struggle to find anywhere else. Two dollars for a huge jar of olives, less for stewed berries, and much to choose from.

Javaherdeh
Assorted jars of everything - these shops are up and down the road leading to Javaherdeh, popular gifts that people take back to Tehran for their families and friends.

Heading Home

As with all of my travels, long and short, there's a sense of contentment as you head home. All the richer for having discovered something full of history and life, with people happy to show you their part of the world.

Keep your eyes peeled for one of the many ice cream and juice bars so well-renowned in Iran. The saffron ice-cream (safran bastani in Farsi) is not to be missed!

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Dave at Ahu Ko Te Riku on Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Chile.

Hi, I'm Dave

Editor in Chief

I've been writing about adventure travel on Go Backpacking since 2007. I've visited 68 countries.

Read more about Dave.

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